Brilliant video, my rear shock gave out on me after 88k kms, just had a long ride over rough roads with luggage loading the rear down, a few days after I came home I was riding on the spring and nothing else :P I'm about to mount a Wilbers rear shock this afternoon, so I figured I'd service the linkage at the same time, I very much appreciate the guidance.
Thanks for a very detailed video. Good to know that it is possible to remove the arm relay for maintenance without destroy the bolt, as seen in other videos.
I've just bought (nov 2020) an 05 fjr1300 with with 15k miles on it full Yamaha history.il definitely check these linkage's... Great video can't believe it has so little comments... Well done done sir it's in my favourites
Well Simon, That was cracking thank's so much for that video on such a tricky job. I dont have a FJR1300 atm but i looking for a large tourer for this year. Many thanks again, well deserved beer enjoy.
Very informative video...one question if anyone out there has the answer. What is the centre to centre length of the stock dog bones...my Fjr had been lowered with the adjustable ones when I purchased it. I would like to put them back to stock length...
Brilliant video thanks very much for this I’ll have to look at mine now I have a 2008 model ,my dogbones are 8” centre to centre the guy I bought it from said it was lowered which it certainly was now what I would like to know is the stock lengthwise on the dogbones so I can get it back to Standard thanks in anticipation
wow, what a job. And dealers dont' want to do this job either? ha! i know kawasaki, the older concourse, had grease fittings in that wishbone, made the job a cinch! but of course, yamaha was trying to get dealers more money by giving them this huge service, kind of backfired. I did mine (i have a 2016) and removed the swingarm from the bike, bought a lift from Abba over in england (i live in NJ United states) and that helped a great deal...only thing was i wasn't watching when i unloaded the bike and broke off a foot pedal in the process. That was the only issue i had with it.
I suspect the front most suspension bolt is in the wrong way round which is causing the problem of getting the suspension link out. I think it should be fitted from left to right.
Hi Simon Yes that was my first thought when I got the bike. It is however installed corectly (See 4-93 of the workshop mannual). I don't see any reason why it can't come in from the left side and am tempted to get a replacement bolt and try it.
@@simonhay-heddle3848 I have a 2016 and it's exactly the same! The engineers aren't stupid... the only reason I can see this being the case is because of corporate greed. Yamaha figured out they could make hundreds more in the service department if they put a couple bolts the wrong way around.
I'm VERY curious about those needle-roller bearings in the linkages - you claim that the rollers will FALL OUT if the inner shaft is removed. I have done this job on other Japanese streetbikes of the era, and all have been CAPTURED rollers, (i.e., caged)... and never seen one yet where the rollers are flopping around in there loosely. Are you sure about that.. but personal experience? PS- when working (lying) on the floor, there's nothing like a nice 2' x 4' piece of thick cardboard to lie on.
Hi there I to was very surprised by this claim when I first read about it for the same reasons you outlined. My only thoughts were that if the bearing cage could become a little worn particularly if lubrication wasn't that good. Its never happened to me but since a simple change in normal procedure can eliminate the risk I didn't want anyone to find out the hard way if the risk was genuine 😃
@@simonhay-heddle3848 I think I'll try it.. when it's on the bench, I'll put a finger in one side and carefully pull the spacer out. My bet is that those needle rollers MUST be caged in there; I worked in bearing manufacture for years.. and I can't see how you could have just loose rollers bunching-up in there. Report later!
Hi there. Yes it can be done. Its not a trivial job though. The front and rear bearings would need to have a grease port drilled through the outer race which is hardend steel. You really need a milling machine and carbide tooling to do this. I know it has been done but it is alot of work.
If all you want to do is change the dog bones. All you need to do is put the bike on the center stand and support the rear wheel so there is no load on them. That way the bolts just slide out. The need to suspend the bike is due to having to remove the centre stand to gain access to the bolt at the front of the rocker arm.
@@midnightplasterer Yes you are absolutely right. My mistake. I was thinking about when I had the swing arm off but I only had to disconnect the rear of the dog bones. I'm afraid you will have to suspend the bike but at least the centre stand can stay on. Just fold it into the "up" position. Sorry for the wrong advice.
@simon - the bolts on the middle stand, have you done this work before? Since it seems like the bolts are the correct way, and not pointing toward the exhaust?
Yes, the header pipes will take the weight of the bike, the advice I followed was to put a big book between the jack and the header pipes, helps distribute the load and avoids metal on metal scuffing.
Needed a refresher on this as now have a gen 2, that little reminder of how to knock the linkage arm off the frame was so handy! 😃
Brilliant video, my rear shock gave out on me after 88k kms, just had a long ride over rough roads with luggage loading the rear down, a few days after I came home I was riding on the spring and nothing else :P
I'm about to mount a Wilbers rear shock this afternoon, so I figured I'd service the linkage at the same time, I very much appreciate the guidance.
@@Jan_Nicolaisen Glad it was of some use.😀
Thanks for a very detailed video. Good to know that it is possible to remove the arm relay for maintenance without destroy the bolt, as seen in other videos.
Fantastic video! Looking forward to servicing my suspension over the winter. Thanks for spreading the knowledge!
Why would you look forward to that?I look forward to riding, not being in the garage working all day.get a life!
Brilliant Simon, thank you for taking the time to show people how to do a really important job, appreciate your time and efforts.
I've just bought (nov 2020) an 05 fjr1300 with with 15k miles on it full Yamaha history.il definitely check these linkage's... Great video can't believe it has so little comments... Well done done sir it's in my favourites
Well Simon, That was cracking thank's so much for that video on such a tricky job. I dont have a FJR1300 atm but i looking for a large tourer for this year. Many thanks again, well deserved beer enjoy.
What was cracking? I'd like to service mine one day but don't want to crack or break anything.
Excellent video, must have cost the fj owners club a few quid from owners tackling the job themselves. 👍
Thank you Simon! Very helpful indeed! Might use my son's squat rack where i can suspend the bike!
Great video!! Thanks for posting!!
@8:04 made every second watching worth it :D Very helpful video in many ways. Hope have a Gen II before long and this is encouraging
Good video ,i am thinking to do this job when i will replace the factory downpipes with Delkevic downpipes
Thanks for video.. Nice n clear
Great job, love your video, very informative, thank you
Very informative video...one question if anyone out there has the answer. What is the centre to centre length of the stock dog bones...my Fjr had been lowered with the adjustable ones when I purchased it. I would like to put them back to stock length...
Brilliant video thanks very much for this I’ll have to look at mine now I have a 2008 model ,my dogbones are 8” centre to centre the guy I bought it from said it was lowered which it certainly was now what I would like to know is the stock lengthwise on the dogbones so I can get it back to Standard thanks in anticipation
Hi John. I've just been out to the garage and measured mine. They are 7.5" so it does look like you have a lowering kit fitted. Hope that helps.
Simon
@@simonhay-heddle3848 thank you so much simon
Thanks a lot. Just thinking on rear shock absorber upgrade or swap from k1600gtl.
wow, what a job. And dealers dont' want to do this job either? ha! i know kawasaki, the older concourse, had grease fittings in that wishbone, made the job a cinch! but of course, yamaha was trying to get dealers more money by giving them this huge service, kind of backfired. I did mine (i have a 2016) and removed the swingarm from the bike, bought a lift from Abba over in england (i live in NJ United states) and that helped a great deal...only thing was i wasn't watching when i unloaded the bike and broke off a foot pedal in the process. That was the only issue i had with it.
Thanks for the great training film, I have one question what about the top shock bolt? Does it get checked?
No need to touch it unless you are removing the swing arm or replacing the shock itself.
What about the swingarm?
I suspect the front most suspension bolt is in the wrong way round which is causing the problem of getting the suspension link out. I think it should be fitted from left to right.
Hi Simon
Yes that was my first thought when I got the bike. It is however installed corectly (See 4-93 of the workshop mannual).
I don't see any reason why it can't come in from the left side and am tempted to get a replacement bolt and try it.
@@simonhay-heddle3848 I have a 2016 and it's exactly the same! The engineers aren't stupid... the only reason I can see this being the case is because of corporate greed. Yamaha figured out they could make hundreds more in the service department if they put a couple bolts the wrong way around.
I'm VERY curious about those needle-roller bearings in the linkages - you claim that the rollers will FALL OUT if the inner shaft is removed. I have done this job on other Japanese streetbikes of the era, and all have been CAPTURED rollers, (i.e., caged)... and never seen one yet where the rollers are flopping around in there loosely.
Are you sure about that.. but personal experience?
PS- when working (lying) on the floor, there's nothing like a nice 2' x 4' piece of thick cardboard to lie on.
Hi there
I to was very surprised by this claim when I first read about it for the same reasons you outlined. My only thoughts were that if the bearing cage could become a little worn particularly if lubrication wasn't that good. Its never happened to me but since a simple change in normal procedure can eliminate the risk I didn't want anyone to find out the hard way if the risk was genuine 😃
@@simonhay-heddle3848 I think I'll try it.. when it's on the bench, I'll put a finger in one side and carefully pull the spacer out. My bet is that those needle rollers MUST be caged in there; I worked in bearing manufacture for years.. and I can't see how you could have just loose rollers bunching-up in there. Report later!
They are caged but on mine a needle did fall out when replacing the entire bearing.
@@geoffreypavia5906 If a needle fell out of a caged bearing.. that bearing assembly is bad.
Hello Simon, it any reason why grease nipples cannot be fitted? Im thinking of fitting them to my recently purchased fjr1300
Hi there. Yes it can be done. Its not a trivial job though. The front and rear bearings would need to have a grease port drilled through the outer race which is hardend steel. You really need a milling machine and carbide tooling to do this. I know it has been done but it is alot of work.
great video .. if I want to change the dogbones.. do I need to suspend the bike or is there a way round that? 2016 FJR
If all you want to do is change the dog bones. All you need to do is put the bike on the center stand and support the rear wheel so there is no load on them. That way the bolts just slide out. The need to suspend the bike is due to having to remove the centre stand to gain access to the bolt at the front of the rocker arm.
@@simonhay-heddle3848 thanks Simon but I don’t think the top bolts go past the centre stand when it down …
@@midnightplasterer Yes you are absolutely right. My mistake. I was thinking about when I had the swing arm off but I only had to disconnect the rear of the dog bones. I'm afraid you will have to suspend the bike but at least the centre stand can stay on. Just fold it into the "up" position. Sorry for the wrong advice.
@@simonhay-heddle3848 I appreciate you replying Simon thank you
Mixing dissimilar grease Will cake up and be as bad as no grease
@simon - the bolts on the middle stand, have you done this work before? Since it seems like the bolts are the correct way, and not pointing toward the exhaust?
Yes I removed the factory bolts when I first got the bike and made up a set in stainless steel.
@@simonhay-heddle3848 - Ok, thanks. I'm about to do this, so i will prepare for some modification
Can't bike be jacked up instead of suspending her....
Yes, the header pipes will take the weight of the bike, the advice I followed was to put a big book between the jack and the header pipes, helps distribute the load and avoids metal on metal scuffing.
this particular operation and the excessive tire wear is what keeps me from a purchase of an FJ🙁