Awhile ago I set out on a pant fitting mission. Made about 35 pairs with varying results. The best fit I got was tracing over a pair of store bought pants that fit really well. Also, I noticed excess fabric was squooshed down in the back crotch as I wore the pants, so I began to make a deeper curve for that area.
It's really helpful to think of it in terms of planes. Visually, pants pattern pieces are not that intuitive - to me at least. Your video explain why. I'm curious what you think of the top down center out method. Have you done a video on that?
I’m so glad it helps! They’re such a weird pattern piece! In my opinion TDCO borrows techniques from other fitting methods that have been around a long time but the last I looked at it it wasn’t a complete method. I’d stick to methods that have been around awhile unless it works for you! Then by all means, go for it. Palmer and Pletsch has a great book. Other methods don’t have catchy names, they’re just the techniques that work and everyone uses. TDCO is nothing new.
That was very instructive! The hip line curve on the front and back pattern got me thinking how I will draw this line when it is not included on the pattern. Could you help me with the hip line drafting? Thank you for sharing your knowledge !❤
Thanks for watching! The hip line is where it is on you. So you can add it where it makes sense. But it isn’t very reliable in back. And that’s okay. You can put it perpendicular to the grainline but just know that it can be off up to 3/4” at center back sometimes and look crooked. I don’t know why more people don’t talk about that. I don’t use a visual hip line when I fit pants half the time. It just depends if I want it or not. It’s helpful to me when I’m fitting others by photo but I don’t change everything on the pant if that line looks crooked. Sorry-that’s probably less helpful than you want but use other visual aids and how they feel to fit them!
@@SewSewLive Thank you, it makes sense. The other point I forgot to mention is the back wedge. I often get this fitting problem with most pant pattern. I never know if I should curve in that crotch line at the waist or if I should take in at the side seam in a an inward curve.
Could you give some advice on fitting leggings? I am getting a "wavy" inseam (as if inseam is too long compared to the side of the body. No horisontal wrinkles, just the ripples on the inseam ). I tried to add a side seam and a wedge from nothing on side seam to about 1in on the inseam) but it did not help at all. The only thing that helped was to make the whole pant very tight. Is there any way to eliminate inseam waviness without making the leggings very tight? I tried a variety of fabrics, all had 4-way stretch (a misnomer but I want to avoid confusion) and I alwas get ripples unless I go very tight 😞
Without seeing this, this sounds like a sewing issue. Your presser foot pressure could be too tight so the fabric is getting stretched as you sew lengthening the seam. Are you sewing on a serger? If you have a differential adjustment, make sure it’s either off or in the mode not to stretch. It can work either way. It sounds like yours is set to stretch. Tension could be a factor too.
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😊 Wrinkle video here: th-cam.com/video/qzx3_ttYsEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wP5juSWJNx1fmu_C
This is great. The visuals really click.
Wonderful! Thanks for watching!
This is such an interesting approach! Really helpful in my quest for nicely fitted trousers. 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great visuals!!!
Thanks Edina!
Great explanation! Really instructive. Thanks Saremy
Thanks for watching Leen!
Wonderful
Thank you! Cheers!
Awhile ago I set out on a pant fitting mission. Made about 35 pairs with varying results. The best fit I got was tracing over a pair of store bought pants that fit really well.
Also, I noticed excess fabric was squooshed down in the back crotch as I wore the pants, so I began to make a deeper curve for that area.
Looks like you found something that works for you!
It's really helpful to think of it in terms of planes. Visually, pants pattern pieces are not that intuitive - to me at least. Your video explain why. I'm curious what you think of the top down center out method. Have you done a video on that?
I’m so glad it helps! They’re such a weird pattern piece! In my opinion TDCO borrows techniques from other fitting methods that have been around a long time but the last I looked at it it wasn’t a complete method. I’d stick to methods that have been around awhile unless it works for you! Then by all means, go for it. Palmer and Pletsch has a great book. Other methods don’t have catchy names, they’re just the techniques that work and everyone uses. TDCO is nothing new.
Thank you!!
Happy to help!
That was very instructive! The hip line curve on the front and back pattern got me thinking how I will draw this line when it is not included on the pattern. Could you help me with the hip line drafting?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge !❤
Thanks for watching! The hip line is where it is on you. So you can add it where it makes sense. But it isn’t very reliable in back. And that’s okay. You can put it perpendicular to the grainline but just know that it can be off up to 3/4” at center back sometimes and look crooked. I don’t know why more people don’t talk about that. I don’t use a visual hip line when I fit pants half the time. It just depends if I want it or not. It’s helpful to me when I’m fitting others by photo but I don’t change everything on the pant if that line looks crooked. Sorry-that’s probably less helpful than you want but use other visual aids and how they feel to fit them!
@@SewSewLive Thank you, it makes sense. The other point I forgot to mention is the back wedge. I often get this fitting problem with most pant pattern. I never know if I should curve in that crotch line at the waist or if I should take in at the side seam in a an inward curve.
Thank you. Very helpful. .
Could you give some advice on fitting leggings?
I am getting a "wavy" inseam (as if inseam is too long compared to the side of the body. No horisontal wrinkles, just the ripples on the inseam ).
I tried to add a side seam and a wedge from nothing on side seam to about 1in on the inseam) but it did not help at all.
The only thing that helped was to make the whole pant very tight.
Is there any way to eliminate inseam waviness without making the leggings very tight? I tried a variety of fabrics, all had 4-way stretch (a misnomer but I want to avoid confusion) and I alwas get ripples unless I go very tight 😞
Without seeing this, this sounds like a sewing issue. Your presser foot pressure could be too tight so the fabric is getting stretched as you sew lengthening the seam. Are you sewing on a serger? If you have a differential adjustment, make sure it’s either off or in the mode not to stretch. It can work either way. It sounds like yours is set to stretch. Tension could be a factor too.
Thank you for responding!
I am sewing on the serger, with 1.5 differential feed, and taking care not to stretch the fabric.
@izapeszek8982 if it’s wavy after you’re sewing it, it’s most likely the sewing. Check the presser foot pressure too.