Excellent video,thank you so much. None of the time wasting, irritating waffle that so many others offer, just plain, crystal clear explanation and instructions. You're a genius.
Oh my goodness, finally a teacher who can explain the crotch depth that I can understand. Thank you so much, you have me hooked. I am now going to look at all your classes, and I’m sure I’m going to be impressed. Thanks a million Alexandra. ❤️
I have torn my hair out for hours trying to understand the relationship between crotch rise, depth and curve. If only I'd known about this tutorial before. Thank you Alexandra. That was a highly useful 18 minutes and I'll be watching more of your tutorials very soon.
Hi Alexander, This is a great lesson that I have come back to study before I draft my first pair of pants. This time, I have the 40 inch, flexible ruler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whoopi !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I attached a movable plumb line (lol sink plug on a string) to fall right where it should be between the legs. Now I need to do is wear elastic around the waist and hips, and mark the spot where the ruler and elastic guidelines match. Lets just say that Trampolining, didn't do my bladder any favours! New crotch curve coming up! *Hint mold the curves and let it sit on the floor undisturbed for a day. Flexible ruler will loose it's shape if it doesn't cool down and firm up. Hand heat will also change the curve . Use minimal handling! XOX
Wow, this was incredibly helpful. Lots of videos discuss how to make a pants block, but nobody discusses how to address specific fitting issues. Thank you for this!
Thank you, Alexandra. That is the most informative and clear information I have seen. I am making pants right now and this video is exactly what I needed to finish off some linen pants.
Thank you so much for this very informative video! Showing the fitting issues on real pants, explaining exactly what the problem is and how to correct it is so very useful. No point in having fitting problems and not understanding what the fabric is telling you! With thanks to you, I will now look at my fitting problems with greater understanding.
This is the BEST explanation of pants fitting I’ve come across!! So good to look at both the pattern and the pants on a body. The different crotch sections finally make sense! Thank you so much for sharing.
Does anyone offer a service to create "blocks" for someone? I want to sew for my daughters and they need alterations since one is short-waisted and the other is petite but plus-sized.
Light bulb moment. Your definition of crotch depth and crotch length and what they do, has lit up my bulb, and I’ve been sewing for a number of years. Thank you, thank you for explaining this.
Wow. So concise. I have always had problems with fitting, just like most of us, I guess. Now I can adopt one pattern, put in the alterations and get a pleasing effect. Thank you so much.. With my last pair I used a pyjama bottom as a guide but my next pant will be all the better for this video. Thank you.
Thank you so much Alexandra, you are amazing! The way you explain things finally makes sense. Definitive the best videos on pant fitting and it is good to know I was not the only one avoiding making pants for the same reason, so difficult to make them fit well. So many variable to take in inconsideration!!! Thank for your generosity in sharing your knowledge. Now I am also hook, ha
Hello Alexandra, I have followed your tutorials on TH-cam and they've been informative and helpful in my sewing career. Thanks a million. Can you tutor on step by step patterning of pants. Your teachings on pant balance and alterations for good fit is wonderful. So I believe your pants pattern draft will be a perfect fit Thanks Expecting to hear from you
wow, finally explain the crotch depth that I can understand. Thank you so much, you have me hooked. I am now going to look at all your classes. Thanks a lot Alexandra.
Thank you. Super useful. I"m a newbie to sewing pants. I have made two pairs of shorts so far ( shorts to save material) . I have never had a pair of pants (this includes track suit pants) that fitted me.and trust me I have tried many many different cuts in pants, but Ill fitting pants have been my existence since I was a small boy. Anyway I did have a breakthrough moment while working at a thrift shop. I came across a pair of purple track suit pants, and they fitted like magic. Yes they where ladies ones. No I was not a cross dresser :) Back then I was not sewing, but now I realize a direction I need to look into, and discover my own form through *LOTS* of trial and error I am now drafting a very simple pant pattern. Thank you once again. Such an awesome video and at the right time for me. Cheers.
😊 i've just discovered your channel Alexandra, this wideo was great, i need to look at it ahain and look at your previous 3videos to really understand the block pattern before i can adapt it. Thank you for your excellent presentation!
Your video is exactly what I needed! My favorite video that Ive seen on TH-cam! Love it! Please make more like this! I love how you show the sample examples of the issues and fix them on both body and pattern amazing! Subscribed!
This is also my favorite video. This is a very tricky pattern area, but settled into just 3 fitting issues (assuming height & girth were tackled before the first cutting) makes it far less scary.
Thank you!! when i was little my mom used to make my own clothes, as I grew and she had less time we had to move to buying and I could never quite tell what was wrong with the fitting! this clarifies things a lot!
Thank you!!! I have been "studying" this for a while now and still struggling. Excited to apply what you shared and see if that "fixes" the issues I've been having!
Very clear this demonstration.. Thanking you, Pls explaine the correct method of the pattern drafting a pant. Specially frontrise and back rise ratio of crotch for better fitting ,with including the hip measurement. All the best. Please take size 30 as a sample size
Thanks for this extremely valuable information. I am new to sewing and garment making, (avid knitter so I have some understanding) does the info for fitting and adjustments apply to menswear as well?
Amazing tutorials! How would you approach SHORTENING the FRONT crotch curve below the hip line? I tried doing it in a similar way you did it when extending it in the back, but the front curve is already very short and when slashing and overlapping it, it creates all sorts of problems - the front and the back curve angle don’t match any more :( Do you have any tips? Thank you!!!
This is a superb tutorial ... I'd watched it before, about a year ago, but now that I've made two pairs of jeans (with lots of tweaking, thankfully supported by a teacher in a weekend course!) it is suddenly making a lot more sense to me. Even better, it gives me an idea of what I need to try next time. All while realising that altering a pattern is a little bit different than working from a block.
published1789 I agree... I’m trying to make my own jeans (big legs/butt problems) and I reverse engineered some jeans but the fit she’s talking about is keeping my pants from fitting my waist correctly...
Thanks for this tutorial! One question - if I add a back crotch extension like you did in the example, wouldn't this also give back thigh more ease as well? If so, how would I get the correct crotch length distribution without altering the fit of the thigh? Thanks :)
Thank you. It will also help me decide whether off the shelf trousers actually fit me. I've often noticed the right size trousers have these creases (commas or whiskers) but never knew what they signified until now, thanks again.
I love your tutorials, you are an excellent teacher! i have a question, does this apply to Men's bottoms too? like all your pant tutorials or whats the difference? do you have men's pants fitting tutorials?
Your information and explanations are so very helpful. It has helped me gain such a good understanding of what can be done to improve the fit of my pants. Thank you for your great tutorial.
Thank you so much for the information. When taking a full crotch measurement it there at method for dividing the front crotch length and the back crotch length for fitted pants. How can I know how much length I should give the front and how much I should give the back instead of just dividing the full crotch length by 2?
thank you very much Alexandra! Just a question: how do you draw the hip balance line? should It be parallel to the waist line? thank you for the answer that you would give to me.
Hello, great video and so well made! I have only one question :) if it’s ok. If I make a fishtail trouser and my hip like it snooping down. How can I fix it and still keep the tail without it getting too short? Thank you so much! Anton.
This is fantastic information, so useful and I will definitely be referring to this video when I make pants in the future. In fact I have a pair I will now have a try to adjust based on this information. Thank you so much.
ciao c'è qualcuno che può tradurre in Italiano ,I miei pantaloni fanno proprio quel difetto sul dietro ,ma non capisco cosa dice c'è una persona così gentile da tradurre grazie
La profondità del cavallo è lo spazio tra le gambe, dalla linea di cintura anteriore a quella posteriore, fino ai glutei. la curva è creata da questa misura e dall'altezza dei fianchi. Queste due misure permettono al pantalone di adattarsi bene al cavallo. La matita lo sottolinea 4:15. Per il modello davanti e dietro, le misure della linea dei fianchi devono essere allineate così come la profondità delle cuciture alle estremità delle curve, questo garantirà una buona vestibilità dei pantaloni. Ricorda, la forma della curva è molto importante! Bisogna però considerare l’altezza dai fianchi alla vita. Da quella misura puoi aumentare o diminuire la lunghezza della curva.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns Hi Alexandra. I'm back at it again following a short hiatus on pant fitting because I was getting so disheartened. If I send you a pic, would you please give me suggestions on what to fix? Thank you for your time.
This is a great video! I'm not understanding exactly what you did to the top of the front side to lower it - where you cut and where you overlapped - just can't tell by the drawing only. It would be super helpful to have seen those actually cut and moved into position. Could you explain the meaning of the solid and dashed lines? Did you also make a vertical cut there? Also - it would have been great to see the 'After' photos as well....
Cerenade Me thank you. The video is too long if I include everything and getting the concept across was my priority. The solid lines indicate the slash lines the dashed lines are the adjustment line and show where the solid lines end up after the move.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns hi, happy New Year. Can you do a video explaining the concept behind the different curved area in men's tights/briefs, used for running etc. It's cut like a 'U' shape in the back crotch, with a contoured front piece in the center front. Can you show how you adjust the pattern pieces in accordance with given measurements. Thank you much.
I'm a little disappointed. :( Can't you add at least a picture of how the pants looked after adjustments? If it's about perfectly fitting pants, shouldn't we see how it worked?
Deborah Briggs the sample being discussed is from a pant block class so there was only time for one fitting. If I had the final results available to me I would have definitely shown it. So sorry to disappoint you.
I am a short fat woman. I must have petite pants but even petites are usually too long in the crotch. Usually the width of the waist band. Because I am short from the waist to the crotch. How do I raise the crotch in a pair of jeans?
2:17 Every other source I have describes crotch length as the total measurement from front waistline to back waistline and crotch depth as the measure measurement from waist to the center, the measurement usually illustrated by being taken sitting down from the side waist to a hard surface while sitting down.
Lorraine Williams you’re right. I am trying to explain it here in the terms of body geometry. In that respect length is measured up and down, width is measured across, and depth is measured from front to back. Hope that clarifies things.
You'll have to adjust from the waistline, removing from the top of the pant to bring the crotch level up which may cause other fitting issues that you'll need to check. I always suggest to make a test sample first.
In my experience back hip lines are always drawn at a slight angle. If they are completely straight across they will always come to some amount of "v" no? Trying to make them perfectly straight when drawn straight on the pattern was an endless fitting nightmare for me, until a pattern making friend told me they are actually drawn at a slight angle.
Excellent video,thank you so much. None of the time wasting, irritating waffle that so many others offer, just plain, crystal clear explanation and instructions. You're a genius.
Oh my goodness, finally a teacher who can explain the crotch depth that I can understand. Thank you so much, you have me hooked. I am now going to look at all your classes, and I’m sure I’m going to be impressed. Thanks a million Alexandra. ❤️
Just what I would have said. You're amazing Alexandra!
I have torn my hair out for hours trying to understand the relationship between crotch rise, depth and curve. If only I'd known about this tutorial before. Thank you Alexandra. That was a highly useful 18 minutes and I'll be watching more of your tutorials very soon.
Excellent, excellent, excellent tutorial! Thank you so much for demonstrating on both the pattern and on the body. You have helped me greatly!
Hi Alexander, This is a great lesson that I have come back to study before I draft my first pair of pants.
This time, I have the 40 inch, flexible ruler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whoopi !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I attached a movable plumb line (lol sink plug on a string) to fall right where it should be between the legs.
Now I need to do is wear elastic around the waist and hips, and mark the spot where the ruler and elastic
guidelines match.
Lets just say that Trampolining, didn't do my bladder any favours! New crotch curve coming up!
*Hint mold the curves and let it sit on the floor undisturbed for a day. Flexible ruler will loose it's shape
if it doesn't cool down and firm up. Hand heat will also change the curve . Use minimal handling!
XOX
Wow, this was incredibly helpful. Lots of videos discuss how to make a pants block, but nobody discusses how to address specific fitting issues. Thank you for this!
Yes, because fitting the pants is the most difficult thing.
Thank you, Alexandra. That is the most informative and clear information I have seen. I am making pants right now and this video is exactly what I needed to finish off some linen pants.
Dear Alexandra, you are such a pro. Thank you so much for your willingness to share❤
This is so helpful! Thank you for breaking it down so clearly.
Thank you so much for this very informative video! Showing the fitting issues on real pants, explaining exactly what the problem is and how to correct it is so very useful. No point in having fitting problems and not understanding what the fabric is telling you! With thanks to you, I will now look at my fitting problems with greater understanding.
This is the BEST explanation of pants fitting I’ve come across!! So good to look at both the pattern and the pants on a body. The different crotch sections finally make sense! Thank you so much for sharing.
Does anyone offer a service to create "blocks" for someone? I want to sew for my daughters and they need alterations since one is short-waisted and the other is petite but plus-sized.
Light bulb moment. Your definition of crotch depth and crotch length and what they do, has lit up my bulb, and I’ve been sewing for a number of years. Thank you, thank you for explaining this.
Wow this is the best video lesson I’ve seen. Thank you so much
Clear explanations and very helpful. Very good teacher, thank you !
Wow. So concise. I have always had problems with fitting, just like most of us, I guess. Now I can adopt one pattern, put in the alterations and get a pleasing effect. Thank you so much.. With my last pair I used a pyjama bottom as a guide but my next pant will be all the better for this video. Thank you.
Thank you for clear and detailed explanation. Very helpful.
Thank you so much Alexandra, you are amazing! The way you explain things finally makes sense. Definitive the best videos on pant fitting and it is good to know I was not the only one avoiding making pants for the same reason, so difficult to make them fit well. So many variable to take in inconsideration!!! Thank for your generosity in sharing your knowledge. Now I am also hook, ha
This is the most useful tutorial I have ever seen. Thank you so much.
Glad you think so!
Hello Alexandra,
I have followed your tutorials on TH-cam and they've been informative and helpful in my sewing career. Thanks a million.
Can you tutor on step by step patterning of pants. Your teachings on pant balance and alterations for good fit is wonderful.
So I believe your pants pattern draft will be a perfect fit
Thanks
Expecting to hear from you
Love these videos but as a person who’s wheelchair bound is there a way to achieve the same results
Excellent and a very good teaching on this always difficult fitting! Thankyou!
wow, finally explain the crotch depth that I can understand. Thank you so much, you have me hooked. I am now going to look at all your classes. Thanks a lot Alexandra.
Thank you! It's so helpful to see an example of a real muslin, what the problems are and how to fix them!
Thank you. Super useful. I"m a newbie to sewing pants. I have made two pairs of shorts so far ( shorts to save material) . I have never had a pair of pants (this includes track suit pants) that fitted me.and trust me I have tried many many different cuts in pants, but Ill fitting pants have been my existence since I was a small boy. Anyway I did have a breakthrough moment while working at a thrift shop. I came across a pair of purple track suit pants, and they fitted like magic. Yes they where ladies ones. No I was not a cross dresser :) Back then I was not sewing, but now I realize a direction I need to look into, and discover my own form through *LOTS* of trial and error I am now drafting a very simple pant pattern.
Thank you once again. Such an awesome video and at the right time for me.
Cheers.
😊 i've just discovered your channel Alexandra, this wideo was great, i need to look at it ahain and look at your previous 3videos to really understand the block pattern before i can adapt it. Thank you for your excellent presentation!
Your video is exactly what I needed! My favorite video that Ive seen on TH-cam! Love it! Please make more like this! I love how you show the sample examples of the issues and fix them on both body and pattern amazing! Subscribed!
This is also my favorite video. This is a very tricky pattern area, but settled into just 3 fitting issues (assuming height & girth were tackled before the first cutting) makes it far less scary.
Thank you!! when i was little my mom used to make my own clothes, as I grew and she had less time we had to move to buying and I could never quite tell what was wrong with the fitting! this clarifies things a lot!
Thanks so much for this video. I’m hoping that by using your instructions I’ll finally be able to fit my body. I really appreciate you posting this.
Thank you!!! I have been "studying" this for a while now and still struggling. Excited to apply what you shared and see if that "fixes" the issues I've been having!
Very clear this demonstration.. Thanking you,
Pls explaine the correct method of the pattern drafting a pant.
Specially frontrise and back rise ratio of crotch for better fitting ,with including the hip measurement.
All the best.
Please take size 30 as a sample size
Thanks for this extremely valuable information. I am new to sewing and garment making, (avid knitter so I have some understanding) does the info for fitting and adjustments apply to menswear as well?
Amazing tutorials! How would you approach SHORTENING the FRONT crotch curve below the hip line? I tried doing it in a similar way you did it when extending it in the back, but the front curve is already very short and when slashing and overlapping it, it creates all sorts of problems - the front and the back curve angle don’t match any more :(
Do you have any tips? Thank you!!!
This is a superb tutorial ... I'd watched it before, about a year ago, but now that I've made two pairs of jeans (with lots of tweaking, thankfully supported by a teacher in a weekend course!) it is suddenly making a lot more sense to me. Even better, it gives me an idea of what I need to try next time. All while realising that altering a pattern is a little bit different than working from a block.
published1789 I agree... I’m trying to make my own jeans (big legs/butt problems) and I reverse engineered some jeans but the fit she’s talking about is keeping my pants from fitting my waist correctly...
Thank you for sharing this wonderful informative video. I am learning slowly from you. Blessings
Thank you for all the corrections Ma'am.
Thanks for this tutorial! One question - if I add a back crotch extension like you did in the example, wouldn't this also give back thigh more ease as well? If so, how would I get the correct crotch length distribution without altering the fit of the thigh? Thanks :)
This is wonderfully explained & very informative! 👏
This is such a helpful video - thank you!
Thank you. It will also help me decide whether off the shelf trousers actually fit me. I've often noticed the right size trousers have these creases (commas or whiskers) but never knew what they signified until now, thanks again.
does this apply to men's bottoms too? do you have a video or link for men's pants? love how you teach is so easy to understand :)
I love your tutorials, you are an excellent teacher! i have a question, does this apply to Men's bottoms too? like all your pant tutorials or whats the difference? do you have men's pants fitting tutorials?
Your information and explanations are so very helpful. It has helped me gain such a good understanding of what can be done to improve the fit of my pants. Thank you for your great tutorial.
Dianne Underwood you’re welcome!
Thank you - very clear and useful information!
Thank you so much for the information. When taking a full crotch measurement it there at method for dividing the front crotch length and the back crotch length for fitted pants. How can I know how much length I should give the front and how much I should give the back instead of just dividing the full crotch length by 2?
moltissime grazie mi sei stata davvero di aiuto ,e ancora mille grazie per la tua gentilezza saluti SILVANA
Thanks 💖 for the awesome tutorial, I really appreciate you taking the time to share! 💖 ☺
Which of the depth lines on the back extension should we follow? The orange or the black? Thanks!
Thank you so so much for this very interesting help video
Awesome teaching! Wow!
I’ve been searching for this video! Thank you so much!
Great video! Do you need to adjust front crotch lower to match lowered back?
Great demonstration.
Thank u so much for this lovely video..
Thank you. very well explained!
Love this video, so helpful
- E X C E L L E N T E ! ! ! B R A V O ! ! ! Very clear, concise info on pant adjustment.
thank you very much Alexandra! Just a question: how do you draw the hip balance line? should It be parallel to the waist line? thank you for the answer that you would give to me.
See this video... th-cam.com/video/qZ0n_73H4h8/w-d-xo.html
Wow, your videos are so informative. Thank you.
This video was sooooo useful Alexandra, very many thanks.
Wow! This was an excellent video 👌
I would like to see the finished product, or the perfect fitting pant.
Sewing channel rarely do that. Usually show the theory but never show the results
That dress is beautiful!!! The fit is amazing!!
It would have been very helpful to see the pants with the adjustments made.
I love your dress! Is this a pattern I can find?
Gosh, I think this was a Style Arc pattern?
This is a great video, however how do you find your exact hip line? Thanks for all the information you freely share😋.
Hello, great video and so well made! I have only one question :) if it’s ok.
If I make a fishtail trouser and my hip like it snooping down. How can I fix it and still keep the tail without it getting too short? Thank you so much!
Anton.
Wow that was really clear. Thanks
Very informative. Thank you
Thank you very much for this information, one question, how do you know where your actual hip line is and how do you transfer it to your pattern?
Hi Verna, See if either of these videos help: - th-cam.com/video/Gg3Aff02tzM/w-d-xo.html
or: th-cam.com/video/YYkulvPloqI/w-d-xo.html
This is fantastic information, so useful and I will definitely be referring to this video when I make pants in the future. In fact I have a pair I will now have a try to adjust based on this information. Thank you so much.
Thank you. This is awesome
Excelente explanation!!
How can I fix my pants crotch? It's pre made pants.. It's too short, can I make it longer? Ty
ciao c'è qualcuno che può tradurre in Italiano ,I miei pantaloni fanno proprio quel difetto sul dietro ,ma non capisco cosa dice c'è una persona così gentile da tradurre grazie
La profondità del cavallo è lo spazio tra le gambe, dalla linea di cintura anteriore a quella posteriore, fino ai glutei.
la curva è creata da questa misura e dall'altezza dei fianchi.
Queste due misure permettono al pantalone di adattarsi bene al cavallo.
La matita lo sottolinea 4:15.
Per il modello davanti e dietro, le misure della linea dei fianchi devono essere allineate così come la profondità delle cuciture alle estremità delle curve, questo garantirà una buona vestibilità dei pantaloni.
Ricorda, la forma della curva è molto importante!
Bisogna però considerare l’altezza dai fianchi alla vita.
Da quella misura puoi aumentare o diminuire la lunghezza della curva.
Thank you for sharing this information. Would it be best to make the modifications to level the lines before taking away from the crotch areas?
Always try to achieve the level balance lines. That is your objective. In this case it is evident all three need to be done.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns Hi Alexandra. I'm back at it again following a short hiatus on pant fitting because I was getting so disheartened. If I send you a pic, would you please give me suggestions on what to fix? Thank you for your time.
This is a great video! I'm not understanding exactly what you did to the top of the front side to lower it - where you cut and where you overlapped - just can't tell by the drawing only. It would be super helpful to have seen those actually cut and moved into position. Could you explain the meaning of the solid and dashed lines? Did you also make a vertical cut there? Also - it would have been great to see the 'After' photos as well....
Cerenade Me thank you. The video is too long if I include everything and getting the concept across was my priority. The solid lines indicate the slash lines the dashed lines are the adjustment line and show where the solid lines end up after the move.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns hi, happy New Year. Can you do a video explaining the concept behind the different curved area in men's tights/briefs, used for running etc. It's cut like a 'U' shape in the back crotch, with a contoured front piece in the center front. Can you show how you adjust the pattern pieces in accordance with given measurements. Thank you much.
I'm a little disappointed. :( Can't you add at least a picture of how the pants looked after adjustments? If it's about perfectly fitting pants, shouldn't we see how it worked?
Deborah Briggs the sample being discussed is from a pant block class so there was only time for one fitting. If I had the final results available to me I would have definitely shown it. So sorry to disappoint you.
Can you do a Men 's bottom fitting tutorial ? Thank you
I am a short fat woman. I must have petite pants but even petites are usually too long in the crotch. Usually the width of the waist band. Because I am short from the waist to the crotch. How do I raise the crotch in a pair of jeans?
Thank you!! Very useful.
This series on pants fitting is wonderful. Is it possible to get some pants fitting consultation help from you via email, Alexandra?
Desert Morning Learning I don’t do fit consultations over email, but I’ve got many free tutorials and a new fitting course coming soon!
Nice Alexandra
Nice teacher👌
2:17 Every other source I have describes crotch length as the total measurement from front waistline to back waistline and crotch depth as the measure measurement from waist to the center, the measurement usually illustrated by being taken sitting down from the side waist to a hard surface while sitting down.
Lorraine Williams you’re right. I am trying to explain it here in the terms of body geometry. In that respect length is measured up and down, width is measured across, and depth is measured from front to back. Hope that clarifies things.
Good emformashion
I believe you meant fashimation
Instsgram sdresiniz varmi tesekkurler
good job, go on, thanks a lot, you wide my horizen
Great Tutorial! Thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
Hey there! Is there any standard measuremnts for crotch for different sizes. CROTCH LENGTH
No, not that I'm aware of.
How do i fix a dropped crotch level if I already sewed the pants?
You'll have to adjust from the waistline, removing from the top of the pant to bring the crotch level up which may cause other fitting issues that you'll need to check. I always suggest to make a test sample first.
@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns thank you very much
❤
Tuyệt vời
In my experience back hip lines are always drawn at a slight angle. If they are completely straight across they will always come to some amount of "v" no? Trying to make them perfectly straight when drawn straight on the pattern was an endless fitting nightmare for me, until a pattern making friend told me they are actually drawn at a slight angle.
It would be parallel to the waist angle