thank you for watching Believe it or not, you are one of the reasons I got motivated to work on my fbodys once again after seeing your 7000 rpm valve spring video... Wait till you see what I got in store for my other fbody (transam "dirty bird") with the procharged 383.. Going to be hitting you up with your idea you had with valves springs etc.. if you want hit me up on Instagram maldo72youtube so we can stay intouch if i have any questions thx
Yes, that's why I made the video. Will talk about them in more depth in a later video about these two guys out of Oklahoma that has been making race cams for decades for the circle track guys. what sucks is that they have no web site social media etc just have to pick up the phone and call these guys and do it old school lol lol lol
I’m sure I’ll figure it out or there a reason you didn’t mention it because it’s self explanatory but wish you mentioned how the timing gos back, just make sure the dots like up in middle , and how the cam is positioned correctly once in, will you feel it doesn it only fit one way with rockers detached
yes it goes one one line up the 2 dots and your golden .. i will be posting anther video soon about the timing chain cover install and i will mention the timing marks look out for it by this weekend
Thanks a lot for replying, how much horse power did you gain did you get it tuned or anything been watching your videos but haven’t seen anything on it ..
@@maldo72hey sir I have question for you is there a way I can contact u its important im tryna install a cam on my Camaro same as yours a hydronic roller thumpr cam and my dads saying I can’t do to the computer but but I think he lyin so i dont do it can u tell me plz
Hi, how can they do a regrind on a used camshaft without welding up the lobes and journals..? You can see the the lobes are higher and wider. Also, how can you grind the bearing journals without putting over size bearing to make up the difference..? They must start with a raw forging and grind it to the spec's they need. If you just change the base circle it changes the geometry of the valve train.
Generally, To make power in an engine you spend your money on cam and heads. The headers were a great idea. I would have spent the extra money for a Comp Cams Xtreme cam. On a cam you want the spread between advertised and @ 050s to be as low as possible. Comp generally measures their advertised at .006s, and OEM manufacturers measure their SAE at .004s. to compare Comp cams you would have to add 10 degrees to their advertised figure.
I've been watching your videos 3 or 4 months now to tackle this job... now I'm half way through it.... your videos been a lot of help to a dyi like me... made it easy.... i saw you running the car hard, i was wondering if you went with a high volume oil pump ? if not would that of made a difference to the bearings....
Hi and thank you for watching ... once i get the motor out i will have a better understanding what went wrong and can make a better determination.... recap the motor in the car had unknown mileage bought it used some time ago and only pulled one rod cap to see what the bearing looking like... This setup was never intended to be spun as high as i was pushing it .... it was just a stock setup for my dad but since i took over the car once again I went a little crazy with with this cheap cam swap series and things kinda snowballed with other parts etc....(the only thing that was set out to the machine shop to be completely redone was the heads ).... HV vs standard oil pump omg what a debate over this it all come down to bearing clearances the looser the motor the more oil volume you need (not pressure ) if you running a stock cleance motor a standard pump will do fine till about 7,000 rpm and will have less drag on the engine .... hv oil pumps come int play when the motor is on the loose side and spinning it to the moon .... so its safe to say a standard volume pump is good for 95% of the street application egines ... that said and i will have updated info in up coming videos i will be getting rid of the hv oil pump i got and swaping it out with the standard pump for the motor thats going in it ... (its just a stock refresh to hold me over till i can get a proper race engine built)
@@maldo72 thanks for quick reply had my green bean, convertible 6 speed for 22 year 130,000 miles never a misfire till around thanksgiving... maf code ended up rebuild to the cam... went with cca503,beehive springs , roller rockers, i'm at the timing cover part of my build (i did get a new time chain).... deleted smog, bought new headers, was gonna take it to muffler shop to hook up exhaust till i saw you put the y pipe on...i have factory borla just like yours.....so i'm gonna do it myself.... once again thanks for the vids.....
I rebuilt this motor about 4 years ago and the heads were redone. they are a stock rebuild with upgraded springs to match the cam I put in. this cam with the long-tube headers made a huge difference and it will pull to 6300 no problem plus has the right cam sound without being to rowdy
@@maldo72 cool thanks. I’ve found the same cam online for about 400$ that comes with valve springs and lifters so I think I’m going to take the plunge and buy it. Thanks again
Rather a lot of cam to toss into a stock engine. The issue with regrinds is with hardening. They close the base circle, that’s how they can give higher specs. Good luck.
yes I had my doubts also but, that was the whole point of the video series is to see if these cams suck or not and to my surprise , the quality is really good and have zero problems... (if you see the photos of both cams together (stock vs aftermarkets the base is not bad at all and its a steel billet cam) as for the cam spec is not bad at all no cam surgepleaty of low end torque and as you can see from the other video she pulls to 6400 with no problems... what i like about the cam that is has good duration @50 and did not go crazy with valve lift which should play nice with the single aftermarket coil valve springs ... thank you for watching more to come ...
yes, I like the system but I still think it's way too expensive and if there is a problem parts are not easy to get right away ... I am looking more toward just converting to a rear distributor setup with a Holley EFI setup in the future and be done with it ... if they were to make a direct replacement type of bolt in opti type of trigger all in one unit that can still use the OEM PCM with coils would be the golden egg for lt1 owners...
totally agree I already had half of it and it still cost a shit ton. I shall see how it performs for the price expect good results... I went with the essential kit. Also I had browsed at the holly EFI kit as well. Seem good too. I'll have some videos posted when I get it together
I miss my F-Body but I don’t miss working on it. Keep the video coming Sir. 💪
thank you for watching Believe it or not, you are one of the reasons I got motivated to work on my fbodys once again after seeing your 7000 rpm valve spring video... Wait till you see what I got in store for my other fbody (transam "dirty bird") with the procharged 383.. Going to be hitting you up with your idea you had with valves springs etc.. if you want hit me up on Instagram maldo72youtube so we can stay intouch if i have any questions thx
Great vid brother! I'm going to do this on my 97 SS in the near future. Thanks for showing us! Take care
thank you for watching I got a lot more to come
Good job brother.
Excited how the LT1 will run with this cam.
I will finally continue on my build this weekend and install the crank and pistons.
Yes I should have it finished by end of week cant wait to see how it runs...
My dude, thank you for this video. I cant explain how helpful it is. Awesome vid!
Thank you for watching much more to come
You work with such ease on these, great videos
thank you for watching
I been looking up other review videos of this company camshaft... I've found nothing.. but super excited to do this cam in mine.
Yes, that's why I made the video.
Will talk about them in more depth in a later video about these two guys out of Oklahoma that has been making race cams for decades for the circle track guys.
what sucks is that they have no web site social media etc just have to pick up the phone and call these guys and do it old school lol lol lol
الحمد لله على السمع و الأبصار و الأفئدة.
Alhamdulillah for sight, hearing and heart.
Thank you very much man
How can i move crank so timing dots adjust with crank hub and cover off
My plan is to do the exact same thing you are doing here. Thanks!
thank you for watching if you want a cam hit up Willhoites Camshaft on ebay
Great content, smart and cool video
Thank you for watching
I’m sure I’ll figure it out or there a reason you didn’t mention it because it’s self explanatory but wish you mentioned how the timing gos back, just make sure the dots like up in middle , and how the cam is positioned correctly once in, will you feel it doesn it only fit one way with rockers detached
yes it goes one one line up the 2 dots and your golden .. i will be posting anther video soon about the timing chain cover install and i will mention the timing marks look out for it by this weekend
Thanks a lot for replying, how much horse power did you gain did you get it tuned or anything been watching your videos but haven’t seen anything on it ..
how do you make sure the cam is in the right position before putting on the timing gear? New to this
align the 2 dots on the timing gear super simple can't mess it up
@@maldo72 I understand the dots have to be aligned when removing timing chain , do you need to be align them up again with installing timing chain
@@hiddenghost9200 yes they have to line up
@@maldo72 what is something good I can use to clean lifter valley before I send it into the pan ?
My back hurts just watching this.....
Lol...
@@maldo72hey sir I have question for you is there a way I can contact u its important im tryna install a cam on my Camaro same as yours a hydronic roller thumpr cam and my dads saying I can’t do to the computer but but I think he lyin so i dont do it can u tell me plz
@@theterminator8405 you can email me at maldo72motorsports@yahoo.com
Hi, how can they do a regrind on a used camshaft without welding up the lobes and journals..? You can see the the lobes are higher and wider. Also, how can you grind the bearing journals without putting over size bearing to make up the difference..? They must start with a raw forging and grind it to the spec's they need. If you just change the base circle it changes the geometry of the valve train.
to the best of my knowledge these are new cams they regrind the owner of the company claimed to me that they do not weld these cams in any sort of way
Generally, To make power in an engine you spend your money on cam and heads. The headers were a great idea. I would have spent the extra money for a Comp Cams Xtreme cam. On a cam you want the spread between advertised and @ 050s to be as low as possible. Comp generally measures their advertised at .006s, and OEM manufacturers measure their SAE at .004s. to compare Comp cams you would have to add 10 degrees to their advertised figure.
I've been watching your videos 3 or 4 months now to tackle this job... now I'm half way through it.... your videos been a lot of help to a dyi like me... made it easy.... i saw you running the car hard, i was wondering if you went with a high volume oil pump ? if not would that of made a difference to the bearings....
Hi and thank you for watching ... once i get the motor out i will have a better understanding what went wrong and can make a better determination.... recap the motor in the car had unknown mileage bought it used some time ago and only pulled one rod cap to see what the bearing looking like... This setup was never intended to be spun as high as i was pushing it .... it was just a stock setup for my dad but since i took over the car once again I went a little crazy with with this cheap cam swap series and things kinda snowballed with other parts etc....(the only thing that was set out to the machine shop to be completely redone was the heads ).... HV vs standard oil pump omg what a debate over this it all come down to bearing clearances the looser the motor the more oil volume you need (not pressure ) if you running a stock cleance motor a standard pump will do fine till about 7,000 rpm and will have less drag on the engine .... hv oil pumps come int play when the motor is on the loose side and spinning it to the moon .... so its safe to say a standard volume pump is good for 95% of the street application egines ... that said and i will have updated info in up coming videos i will be getting rid of the hv oil pump i got and swaping it out with the standard pump for the motor thats going in it ... (its just a stock refresh to hold me over till i can get a proper race engine built)
@@maldo72 thanks for quick reply
had my green bean, convertible 6 speed for 22 year 130,000 miles never a misfire till around thanksgiving... maf code ended up rebuild to the cam... went with cca503,beehive springs , roller rockers,
i'm at the timing cover part of my build (i did get a new time chain).... deleted smog, bought new headers, was gonna take it to muffler shop to hook up exhaust till i saw you put the y pipe on...i have factory borla just like yours.....so i'm gonna do it myself.... once again thanks for the vids.....
any time .... once again thank you watching keep me updated and hit me up on Instagram maldo72youtube
@@maldo72 pl
I'm planning on a cam swap soon. Does it have to be at TDC before putting the cam and timing chain on?
yes
]
Awesome video man, I’ve been looking into the same cam for my 92 corvette. I was wondering if you had the heads ported or if they were replaced?
I rebuilt this motor about 4 years ago and the heads were redone. they are a stock rebuild with upgraded springs to match the cam I put in. this cam with the long-tube headers made a huge difference and it will pull to 6300 no problem plus has the right cam sound without being to rowdy
@@maldo72 cool thanks. I’ve found the same cam online for about 400$ that comes with valve springs and lifters so I think I’m going to take the plunge and buy it. Thanks again
Rather a lot of cam to toss into a stock engine. The issue with regrinds is with hardening. They close the base circle, that’s how they can give higher specs. Good luck.
yes I had my doubts also but, that was the whole point of the video series is to see if these cams suck or not and to my surprise , the quality is really good and have zero problems... (if you see the photos of both cams together (stock vs aftermarkets the base is not bad at all and its a steel billet cam) as for the cam spec is not bad at all no cam surgepleaty of low end torque and as you can see from the other video she pulls to 6400 with no problems... what i like about the cam that is has good duration @50 and did not go crazy with valve lift which should play nice with the single aftermarket coil valve springs ... thank you for watching more to come ...
Awesome video. If you were doing heads at the same time would you pull the motor, or leave it in the car?
I'm doing that now. Leave in car.
the heads were done already ... all i had to do was change out the valve springs
the main bolt is 7/16x20
Yes
@@maldo72 you said x14
@@biggregsparks8364 lol my bad good catch
"Click" lol.
lol ..... most people did not get that joke
@@maldo72 I'm gonna start using that lol. Hopefully I say it in time.
@@aaronbadbear5921 lol
Do you have Instagram? Or could I have you email please ? I'd like to ask a few more questions
Instagram "maldo72youtube"
@@maldo72 I'll send you messages and answer whenever you have time. I appreciate any help or info you can give.
I gotta deal with all that here soon. I just upgraded to a torqhead set up. If anyone is interested I have a ltcc kit.
my ltcc is still in the box i bought 6 years ago lol never got around to install it yet
@@maldo72 it took me about 2 years to install lol I kept having issues so forked over the cash for the torqhead smh
yes, I like the system but I still think it's way too expensive and if there is a problem parts are not easy to get right away ... I am looking more toward just converting to a rear distributor setup with a Holley EFI setup in the future and be done with it ... if they were to make a direct replacement type of bolt in opti type of trigger all in one unit that can still use the OEM PCM with coils would be the golden egg for lt1 owners...
totally agree I already had half of it and it still cost a shit ton. I shall see how it performs for the price expect good results... I went with the essential kit. Also I had browsed at the holly EFI kit as well. Seem good too. I'll have some videos posted when I get it together
yes please tag me.... also pm me on Instagram maldo72youtube