WHAT’S UP GUYS!!! TODAY WE’RE…. 😆 yeah I totally agree, haha. But it’s all good, I’m happy to make that style of content for the peeps who want to hang and learn with someone a little more chill ✌🏻
Ooh nice! I’m glad the video helped, it took me a while to figure out what I needed to measure from the text & diagram on Monster Clutch & Tick Performance’s pages so I wanted to make a little easier to understand version 🙏🏻
Thanks for the great info. My measurement from the throwout bearing to the housing wasn't adding up. I looked and looked for reasons why and couldn't find any until I found your channel. Some reason I didn't think the release bearing looked right and soon as you said you may have to move the bleeder screw I was like thats it. LOL I bet that is my issue and it was.
Heck yeah, I’m stoked to hear this helped you out. I made this video to be the one I wished I’d had when I did my LS clutch install so this sort of feedback is all I could for on this vid 🙌🏻
Thank you for this video, exactly what I was looking for! Super helpful. Just found your channel and just looking through it for a couple seconds I’m gonna love your content.
I’m glad I could help! I need to post this to a few forums, I honestly made it because I wished there had been a video like it when I was shimming my own clutch a month ago 😆
@@KameTrick Absolutely you should! I’ve actually been looking for a couple weeks now for a video like yours, and of course it gets recommended when I’m out of town and unable to work on it :/ I’ve been getting into AC drifting a lot more recently with a vr headset so your channel is perfect for me :)
very informative and to the point, thank you... nice shim, didnt know monster supplies those. hopefully i wont need one when i do my monster clutch install.
Thank you! I really just tried to make the video I wished I’d had when I was looking into how to make sure my clutch install wouldn’t have any issues...and then I made that 🙌🏻
One thing I didn't understand is why are you removing the spring to get the measurement? The TOB while functioning would never get that low because the spring is in it. So essentially, you are tryin to accomodate for tolerance that isn't there. Why not use a vice and compress the TOB to it's maximum position?
away to do my e46 clutch and flywheel soon but in doubts as too buy stage 2 or stage 3. im thinking stage 3 would last longer but be harder too drive daily. and stage 2 is pretty much the same price as stage 3 depending on brand. shud i just go all out for stage 3 or just get stage 2? car is only 180bhp but i wanna abuse it without needing too keep spending 300 bucks a time x
The main thing is to get something rated for the power you think the car will be making in the next year or two. No need for a stage 3 if you make 180hp, unless you are certain you’ll be adding a lot more fairly quickly!
@@hypedforhandbrakes7185 I don’t know for sure, depends on several factors, but I wouldn’t worry about it other than matching power level and going with a reputable brand for your application 🤙🏻
That should work fine, as long as they don’t allow the cylinder to shift side to side or twist when applying pressure to the clutch diaphragm spring…not sure how likely that is but a washer shim works well in plenty of other areas.
@@KameTrickif my measurements are correct I’m off by .600, does that sound correct? Do they make a sim that size? I pulled my transmission to send out to have synchronizer for second gear fixed. Found a monster triple disc clutch hiding in there. I didn’t measure before sending the tranny off but now I’m finding this gap.
Either the monster clutch or tick performance website has directions for units with non-removable bellhousings, FWIW, I just don’t own one so I can’t make a video on that process
Thanks for watching-regarding doing it wrong, do you you mean cause the ruler isn’t perfectly flat against the caliper? I noticed that while editing, but didn’t when filming, because I was looking at the tiny camera screen to frame up the shot 🤷🏻♂️
@@KameTrick yes, that being at an angle, and usually calipers have a gap between them on top section which is always there and isnt used for measuring like that.
@@geulach ah I see what you mean. This is my only caliper set (www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW) and it’s top section is flat all the way across. Looking closer the bottom may have a slight difference, though. I did a proper job measuring when actually performing the process but guess I got lazy when talking it through to the camera. 😅 Thanks for holding me to a high standard, I’ll remember that next time I shoot a tutorial video with caliper measurements ✌🏻
Street vs Race Clutches: th-cam.com/video/R9OEaCWtpZI/w-d-xo.html
How Your Clutch Works: th-cam.com/video/SHpABM5E7sY/w-d-xo.html
I wish all of TH-cam was like this. Great video, calm and concise. Thanks man
WHAT’S UP GUYS!!! TODAY WE’RE…. 😆 yeah I totally agree, haha. But it’s all good, I’m happy to make that style of content for the peeps who want to hang and learn with someone a little more chill ✌🏻
Excellent video , very well explained. I’m in the process of a Magnum F swap and need to make sure everything is within spec.
Thanks
Ooh nice! I’m glad the video helped, it took me a while to figure out what I needed to measure from the text & diagram on Monster Clutch & Tick Performance’s pages so I wanted to make a little easier to understand version 🙏🏻
Thanks for the great info. My measurement from the throwout bearing to the housing wasn't adding up. I looked and looked for reasons why and couldn't find any until I found your channel. Some reason I didn't think the release bearing looked right and soon as you said you may have to move the bleeder screw I was like thats it. LOL I bet that is my issue and it was.
Heck yeah, I’m stoked to hear this helped you out. I made this video to be the one I wished I’d had when I did my LS clutch install so this sort of feedback is all I could for on this vid 🙌🏻
Thank you for this video, exactly what I was looking for! Super helpful. Just found your channel and just looking through it for a couple seconds I’m gonna love your content.
I’m glad I could help! I need to post this to a few forums, I honestly made it because I wished there had been a video like it when I was shimming my own clutch a month ago 😆
@@KameTrick Absolutely you should! I’ve actually been looking for a couple weeks now for a video like yours, and of course it gets recommended when I’m out of town and unable to work on it :/ I’ve been getting into AC drifting a lot more recently with a vr headset so your channel is perfect for me :)
@@ejguitar5452 oh yeah, there’s heaps of stuff for AC fans 👌🏻 Good luck on your projects 🔧
Thanks I was wondering about the bolts. Great video
Yeah, happy to help!
Super informative and high quality. Always improving Kame
what is part number on this concentric slave cylinder does it have 32mm hole for input shaft?
very informative and to the point, thank you... nice shim, didnt know monster supplies those. hopefully i wont need one when i do my monster clutch install.
Glad I could help, just made the video I wished was online when I was doing my project haha
Question? In measurement A, you subtracted the width of the object. Do you also have to subtract it from measurement B?
Sure do!
great video appreciate you putting this up
Thank you! I really just tried to make the video I wished I’d had when I was looking into how to make sure my clutch install wouldn’t have any issues...and then I made that 🙌🏻
How much was your total shim amount
One thing I didn't understand is why are you removing the spring to get the measurement? The TOB while functioning would never get that low because the spring is in it. So essentially, you are tryin to accomodate for tolerance that isn't there. Why not use a vice and compress the TOB to it's maximum position?
Yes it does get that low with the spring installed. Just easier to get a measurement without fighting a spring
what sizes are slave cylinder bolt?
Awesome sir, thank you
away to do my e46 clutch and flywheel soon but in doubts as too buy stage 2 or stage 3. im thinking stage 3 would last longer but be harder too drive daily. and stage 2 is pretty much the same price as stage 3 depending on brand. shud i just go all out for stage 3 or just get stage 2? car is only 180bhp but i wanna abuse it without needing too keep spending 300 bucks a time x
The main thing is to get something rated for the power you think the car will be making in the next year or two. No need for a stage 3 if you make 180hp, unless you are certain you’ll be adding a lot more fairly quickly!
@@KameTrick so no difference in life span between the 2? just purely power rating? i just want it too be strong and last really x
@@hypedforhandbrakes7185 I don’t know for sure, depends on several factors, but I wouldn’t worry about it other than matching power level and going with a reputable brand for your application 🤙🏻
@@KameTrick its a black diamond stage 2 kevlar 335gbp or drivetorque stage 3 370gbp this is my puzzle x
@@hypedforhandbrakes7185 I think either will do a good job for you 💪🏻
How’s about we just use a few washers?
That should work fine, as long as they don’t allow the cylinder to shift side to side or twist when applying pressure to the clutch diaphragm spring…not sure how likely that is but a washer shim works well in plenty of other areas.
@@KameTrickif my measurements are correct I’m off by .600, does that sound correct? Do they make a sim that size?
I pulled my transmission to send out to have synchronizer for second gear fixed. Found a monster triple disc clutch hiding in there. I didn’t measure before sending the tranny off but now I’m finding this gap.
My t45 doesnt have a removeable bellhousing... 😢
Either the monster clutch or tick performance website has directions for units with non-removable bellhousings, FWIW, I just don’t own one so I can’t make a video on that process
@2:47 you're doing it so wrong its painful to watch
Thanks for watching-regarding doing it wrong, do you you mean cause the ruler isn’t perfectly flat against the caliper? I noticed that while editing, but didn’t when filming, because I was looking at the tiny camera screen to frame up the shot 🤷🏻♂️
knob xx
@@KameTrick yes, that being at an angle, and usually calipers have a gap between them on top section which is always there and isnt used for measuring like that.
@@geulach ah I see what you mean. This is my only caliper set (www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW) and it’s top section is flat all the way across. Looking closer the bottom may have a slight difference, though.
I did a proper job measuring when actually performing the process but guess I got lazy when talking it through to the camera. 😅
Thanks for holding me to a high standard, I’ll remember that next time I shoot a tutorial video with caliper measurements ✌🏻
This.