That was without a doubt the most educational and professionally done bell housing alignment video I have ever watched, and I have watched a lot of them. Great job, thanks for the education!
I'm doing this now on my stroked 6.6L GTO. The plate lined up ok to my Speedmaster scattershield. Concentric is off about .0039 so I ordered a RobbMc Performance Offset dowel kit for $39.00. No drilling No tapping, and no pounding the new ones in. Great video. It really did help alot.
That was super clear and simple to understand. Thank you. I understand now how this works on installation on my tremec 6speed to my 6.0 lq4 engine. I was a bit worried but now it's super simplified. Thank you again!
Thanks for this. This is more helpfull than than the tremec official video, which i must say was good, but this one is more detailed. Plus what was helpfull, you high lighted that the mopar products can be abit rougher around the edges(quite literal in this case)as i've got a dodge magnum, i can keep and eye out for this, when mateing it up to the T56. Many thanks once again👍👍👍👍
The crankshaft is sitting directly on the lower main cap(s) so crankshaft is probably 0.001 to 0.002 low and not centered. When engine is running the crank is riding on the oil film and hence is now 0.001 to 0.002 higher. How are you accounting for this "offset"?
I'm a senior mfg engineer for one of the big 3 auto companies. Today we would never let a block get out of our plant with dowel holes out of spec for location, in the event of this, that would be considered a spill and we would contain all the bad and suspect blocks so they would never reach our customers. If a new or modern day block, I would lean more towards a bad bell housing. JM$0.2
I think this is more after an engine is line honed,changing slightly the center of the crank.Also,some aftermarket bell housings are better than others but it has to be checked with the new Tremec tight tolerances.
The engines and blocks are probably pretty good these days. I agree this is to correct questionable bell housings...which is fine considering some are weldments....and others are questionably cast chineesium. And, 'yours' got final machined on a huge chunk of quality machinery; so no issues there.
The distance from the mag base shaft to the locating plate stays the same regardless, that's why it doesn't matter. I can't wrap my head around it either even tho I know it is right :)
Great video. However dont buy the dowel pins in this video. If you order from silver sport transmission. They are marked for the high side. This makes it so much easier. And guess what they are cheaper
Hi Holley Performance, I'm interested in this topic. Could you tell me what is sound judgement of the bolt strength class of the mounting of the bellhousing to the engine? For an small front wheel drive car with a transaxle would a metric class 8.8 bolts do? Or is class 10.9 more conventional? Class 8.8 will flex more before it breaks right? So 10.9 isn't always best. Obviously my car manufacturer hasn't specified this.
How do you accomplish these measurements for a transmission without a removable bell housing? I have an adapter plate for a manual trans and the engine dial pins are smaller than the dial pin holes on the plate. I don't think the dial pins are removable on the engine I'm adapting too. What would happen if I installed it as is and the dial pins and holes don't matchi?
Without a removable bellhousing, the adjustment (if any is needed) would have to be done with your adapter plate. The process is the same you just need to use your adapter plate instead of the alignment plate used in the video. The dowel pins should be a snug fit in the holes otherwise you risk the adapter plate moving after it has been installed. It may require some machining or drilling of the adapter plate or to the trans to make the pins fit and work. Thx J
There is something else that has to be taken into account when using an indicator in this manor... that is, that mag base, rods and everything associated with it is sagging. And, in the process is actually giving you an skewed reading. To test this, attach your indicator to a ridgid piece of steel with the stylus touching it. Zero out the indicator in the upright position then flip the indicator upside, observe the two readings. Ive seen .015 sag with an indicator setup like the one in this video.
yes that happens and is easy to account for. In reality, if you invert, it won't move enough to matter (enough to measure). If it DOES for whatever reason, the operator can account for it or else perform the work with the engine shaft vertical. Personally, I would do it with the engine on a stand and then invert and repeat (without changing the 'zero' point) and observe any change due to inversion.
exactly. no one seems to specify how 'good' the jig is. Is the hole round? probably. Is it centered where it belongs? not quite as probably. They should specify that every feature of the jig is within 0.0005" (five tenths).
Am I crazy or did this video just prove that the hole in the setup jig plate is out of round by 0.004"?!?!? Either that or the initial 'zero' point was wrong? If the zero was correct and the hole was round then the left and right numbers should be identical?
I bought this and found it not to be trued ( has a slight bow in it ) tried calling their number on the web site and it seams out of service. I will be returning mine
YES! zero is wrong or hole isn't round. Likely, the hole is quite round considering how they bored it....and the zero was hastily located somewhat incorrectly. One could keep marking zeros until left and right were identical and then be close to 'the real' zero point.
That was without a doubt the most educational and professionally done bell housing alignment video I have ever watched, and I have watched a lot of them. Great job, thanks for the education!
This is beautiful, 1000% better than anything indexing related on TH-cam.
Thx, Everything i had found before was too confusing.. Thx J
I'm doing this now on my stroked 6.6L GTO. The plate lined up ok to my Speedmaster scattershield. Concentric is off about .0039 so I ordered a RobbMc Performance Offset dowel kit for $39.00. No drilling No tapping, and no pounding the new ones in. Great video. It really did help alot.
Wouldn’t .0039 be well within spec though?
Best tutorial I’ve watched on this,thank you!
This is great!! I've been struggling with this for a while on my project. Thanks for a clear and concise explanation.
Thank you out of all the vids I have watched yours is by far the best. Now I can install my Lakewood bell housing with confidence.
That was super clear and simple to understand. Thank you. I understand now how this works on installation on my tremec 6speed to my 6.0 lq4 engine. I was a bit worried but now it's super simplified. Thank you again!
Good job guys!! Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for this. This is more helpfull than than the tremec official video, which i must say was good, but this one is more detailed. Plus what was helpfull, you high lighted that the mopar products can be abit rougher around the edges(quite literal in this case)as i've got a dodge magnum, i can keep and eye out for this, when mateing it up to the T56. Many thanks once again👍👍👍👍
Do you have to run the spacer plate?
How much is bellhousing alignment going to help ANYTHING when alignment of the bellhousing and transmission is ignored?
The crankshaft is sitting directly on the lower main cap(s) so crankshaft is probably 0.001 to 0.002 low and not centered. When engine is running the crank is riding on the oil film and hence is now 0.001 to 0.002 higher. How are you accounting for this "offset"?
I'm a senior mfg engineer for one of the big 3 auto companies. Today we would never let a block get out of our plant with dowel holes out of spec for location, in the event of this, that would be considered a spill and we would contain all the bad and suspect blocks so they would never reach our customers. If a new or modern day block, I would lean more towards a bad bell housing. JM$0.2
I think this is more after an engine is line honed,changing slightly the center of the crank.Also,some aftermarket bell housings are better than others but it has to be checked with the new Tremec tight tolerances.
The engines and blocks are probably pretty good these days. I agree this is to correct questionable bell housings...which is fine considering some are weldments....and others are questionably cast chineesium. And, 'yours' got final machined on a huge chunk of quality machinery; so no issues there.
so if i have a total runout of .010 from side to side. its only .005 off? in the tremec instructions it just says .005 maximum runout
Correct! thx J
Quick question.... How do you center the base on the flywheel? It doesn't seem like you spent much time on centering it, just attached it.
The mag base does not need to be centered.
The distance from the mag base shaft to the locating plate stays the same regardless, that's why it doesn't matter.
I can't wrap my head around it either even tho I know it is right :)
@@kennethalbert4653 IT works because everything spins around the crank centerline.
Just FYI, the Lakewood offset dowel pins are already marked for the high spot on the back end.
Will this plate work for stock 04 gto bellhousing
This is great I had no idea it was a thing
Working on LS and show offset pin options, but one is for Ford. I'm sure that won't mess anyone up.
Working on getting a conversation going from a th350!to a t56
Great video. However dont buy the dowel pins in this video. If you order from silver sport transmission. They are marked for the high side. This makes it so much easier. And guess what they are cheaper
Hi Holley Performance, I'm interested in this topic. Could you tell me what is sound judgement of the bolt strength class of the mounting of the bellhousing to the engine? For an small front wheel drive car with a transaxle would a metric class 8.8 bolts do? Or is class 10.9 more conventional? Class 8.8 will flex more before it breaks right? So 10.9 isn't always best. Obviously my car manufacturer hasn't specified this.
Bellhousing bolts won't flex. Any bolt will do.
Awesome video now until I can afford a bell housing I’ll just keep the boost way down with my aluminum unit
Very nice video and great explanation A+++++
How do you accomplish these measurements for a transmission without a removable bell housing? I have an adapter plate for a manual trans and the engine dial pins are smaller than the dial pin holes on the plate. I don't think the dial pins are removable on the engine I'm adapting too. What would happen if I installed it as is and the dial pins and holes don't matchi?
Without a removable bellhousing, the adjustment (if any is needed) would have to be done with your adapter plate. The process is the same you just need to use your adapter plate instead of the alignment plate used in the video. The dowel pins should be a snug fit in the holes otherwise you risk the adapter plate moving after it has been installed. It may require some machining or drilling of the adapter plate or to the trans to make the pins fit and work. Thx J
Nice helpful video. Thanks for posting.
Have to cut off the right top corner if using with S197 with Coyote Engine.
There is something else that has to be taken into account when using an indicator in this manor... that is, that mag base, rods and everything associated with it is sagging. And, in the process is actually giving you an skewed reading. To test this, attach your indicator to a ridgid piece of steel with the stylus touching it. Zero out the indicator in the upright position then flip the indicator upside, observe the two readings. Ive seen .015 sag with an indicator setup like the one in this video.
Great point there yes, I bet this catches most ppl unaware on this.
yes that happens and is easy to account for. In reality, if you invert, it won't move enough to matter (enough to measure). If it DOES for whatever reason, the operator can account for it or else perform the work with the engine shaft vertical. Personally, I would do it with the engine on a stand and then invert and repeat (without changing the 'zero' point) and observe any change due to inversion.
Why would a guy bolt a plate on the bellhousing first..That plate could be off just as much as the bell housing.
exactly. no one seems to specify how 'good' the jig is. Is the hole round? probably. Is it centered where it belongs? not quite as probably. They should specify that every feature of the jig is within 0.0005" (five tenths).
Am I crazy or did this video just prove that the hole in the setup jig plate is out of round by 0.004"?!?!? Either that or the initial 'zero' point was wrong? If the zero was correct and the hole was round then the left and right numbers should be identical?
I bought this and found it not to be trued ( has a slight bow in it ) tried calling their number on the web site and it seams out of service. I will be returning mine
i haven't seen one yet that specifies the quality (tolerance) of manufacture. Just use the front of the T56 itself.
I am doing manufacturing bellhouging part
what dial indicator is that?
Very common dial indicator available at most tool stores.
Looks like Clockwise Tools DIBR-0055 but might be a slightly different model
2:50 That's important, ask me how I know...LOL
The only thing that confuses me is how you can have two negative numbers at the three and nine o clock positions,unless it isn’t a perfect circle.
YES! zero is wrong or hole isn't round. Likely, the hole is quite round considering how they bored it....and the zero was hastily located somewhat incorrectly. One could keep marking zeros until left and right were identical and then be close to 'the real' zero point.