I’m curious if you get a small amount of bump steer from the drag link being out of alignment with respect to the panhard rod. The bend you put in the drag link gives the eye the look that it’s parallel but what matters to the physics is the plane formed between the pivots. Next time you have the truck jacked up, take the springs out and set up a camera in front and run the suspension through its range. Then do an overlay of mid travel and fully extended and you’ll be able to incontrovertibly state the bump steer measurement.
Looks good👍, i would highly recommend a cross brace from that frameside trac-bar mount to the passenger side frame/ uni-body...like always good content & looking forward to seeing it done
I just finished one ton rod end Barnes kit for my TJ with the HP D44 that I built for it. Barnes make beefy badazz builder stuff! I have done two 8.8 TJ truss kits and a D44 truss kit for the TJ, BEEF!
Great video, Robby. looking great too, me and you are running the same truss, and I'm running the same track bar bracket, it's nice to see how you went about the install. Did you stretch the front axle any?
Two things I see... I think you'll need another bend on the other end of the drag link. The first bend actually made for more of an angle at the pitman arm joint. Second, you changed the track bar to match the bent angle of the drag link. The bend really isn't relevant, the two end points are all that matter. It would be better in the original hole.
The misalignment on the pitman side is just fine. Has plenty of movement. I didn't move the trac bar to compensate for the bend the mounting height determined that.
I was thinking the same thing. Not sure how the angle at the pitman arm isn't causing that joint to bind unless he is using different misalignment standoffs. Especially after bending and increasing the angle at that joint.
At about 1 minute you say that you like this style of weldins because of grooves. How about a closeup or a link so we can get some idea of what you're talking about? Thanks!! th-cam.com/video/FDPN1qL4rOM/w-d-xo.html
The weld in bungs have wrench flats on them allowing you to adjust with an open end wrench vs pipe wrench, you can see the flats close up elsewhere in the video. I am a fan of the Barnes bungs (and parts)also, really nice quality and beef.
I’m curious if you get a small amount of bump steer from the drag link being out of alignment with respect to the panhard rod. The bend you put in the drag link gives the eye the look that it’s parallel but what matters to the physics is the plane formed between the pivots.
Next time you have the truck jacked up, take the springs out and set up a camera in front and run the suspension through its range. Then do an overlay of mid travel and fully extended and you’ll be able to incontrovertibly state the bump steer measurement.
Thanks for the XJ content Robbie, really appreciate it.👍👍
Right, We might see the trail pug in the woods by the end of the year?
Happy to see you getting back at it!!!
looking good glad to see you working on the xj thank you for sharing brother
Always glad to see you working on the old xj
This is great inspiration. I can't wait to do my sas on my 2011 ford ranger fx4 off road
I can't wait to see your rig out on the trail. I hope all is going well. 🤘
Looks awesome, can’t wait to see it rolling.
1.25" x 0.25" tube bends great in the kinker, I was super surprised when I had to bend both my tie rod and draglink.
I think it does better with thicker material
Looks good👍, i would highly recommend a cross brace from that frameside trac-bar mount to the passenger side frame/ uni-body...like always good content & looking forward to seeing it done
This is good stuff!!
You may need to put a bend at the top of the drag link, to prevent binding on the top.
Pitman arm side has plenty of travel
I just finished one ton rod end Barnes kit for my TJ with the HP D44 that I built for it. Barnes make beefy badazz builder stuff! I have done two 8.8 TJ truss kits and a D44 truss kit for the TJ, BEEF!
Thank you sir for your discount code it truly helps out and saved me 200 on my now just under 2k worth of parts for my XJ one ton build
Excellent! Good luck on your build
Why no bend up at the pitman arm end? looks like bends at both ends would be good. TK for the vid. good video.
Great video, Robby. looking great too, me and you are running the same truss, and I'm running the same track bar bracket, it's nice to see how you went about the install. Did you stretch the front axle any?
Yes its pushed forward about an inch or two. About as far forward as you can go without significant changes
You should have left some threads showing on the tube ends. Looks like you only have outward adjustment no inward. Did you set it up with some toe in?
There is about 3/4 of an inch of thread on both sides. Should be plenty of adjustment.
Can you recall the angle of your bend? I’m in nearly the same pickle
Where can i get that trackbar bracket?
looks like the pitman arm end will bind now shouldn't you have bent both ends
Agreed
Naw the heim has plenty of movement on the pitman arm side.
Do you plan on doing full Hydro or Hydro assist?
I plan on running assist. Same basic setup as before
Yea it looks like it should be pretty good. Suppose you’ll truly find out when the build is “done.” Lol
Two things I see... I think you'll need another bend on the other end of the drag link. The first bend actually made for more of an angle at the pitman arm joint. Second, you changed the track bar to match the bent angle of the drag link. The bend really isn't relevant, the two end points are all that matter. It would be better in the original hole.
The misalignment on the pitman side is just fine. Has plenty of movement. I didn't move the trac bar to compensate for the bend the mounting height determined that.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 camera angles can play tricks on a guy. As long as you considered those things I'm sure it's fine. 👍
I was thinking the same thing. Not sure how the angle at the pitman arm isn't causing that joint to bind unless he is using different misalignment standoffs. Especially after bending and increasing the angle at that joint.
At about 1 minute you say that you like this style of weldins because of grooves. How about a closeup or a link so we can get some idea of what you're talking about? Thanks!!
th-cam.com/video/FDPN1qL4rOM/w-d-xo.html
The weld in bungs have wrench flats on them allowing you to adjust with an open end wrench vs pipe wrench, you can see the flats close up elsewhere in the video. I am a fan of the Barnes bungs (and parts)also, really nice quality and beef.