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I heard we can connect to control boards to a pi. I have a btt skr mini e3v3 and a creality 4.2.2 i want to use with klipper. Is rhis possible. And i am assuming i can use the same psu - right?

I understand this video is old but I hope I will still get a response. Since you have to set up the pi to use serial communications to talk to the Tronxy board will this interfere with using usb communications to a print head? I intend on using ebb36 usb communications to allow for multi tool head printing.

Great videos on these mods. One protection for the main board, put a strip of electrical tape over the +5v line in the usb cable coming from the RPi.

I took your design and I’m using it, but I’m having a problem with my filament not want to go through all way to the heat. I don’t know if it’s something too cold in the room or what I’m kind of lost for words but everything fit fine.

To clean the nub where the bottle sits and some syrup will leak into the bottom of the sparkle. Use a couple table spoons of hot water let it sit for a couple of minutes and tilt the sparkle towards you instead of taking it apart. I think it you take it apart it voids the warranty.

Great solution - does anyone have a link to the files? link doesn't work.

you think how hard will it be to make a bot for project diablo 2?

Only a Psychopath would put themself through this.

Anyone got tricks to expanding additional HDD/SSD beyond the 3 provided?

Very informative thank you

Check out all the broken sparkel vids.. mine has RUST inside the machine.

I love my DinkMate! Do DrinkMate infusion caps wear out, perhaps the seal weakens and you don't get as much carbonation? I have been using mine for about a year and sometimes it seems that the carbonation amount is lessening. I wonder about it.

Getting a larger CO2 tank with an adapter works great, and way cheaper gas. The CO2 should be the kind for human consumption into your mouth, I don't know about paint ball canisters. I use a tank for draft beer I get from a liquor store and then have it refilled.

Reccomend replacing the brake housing with compressionless housing, especially for the rear. Makes a huge difference in braking power.

Check out all the broken sparkle macines b4 u buy.

Do you have to use their bottle or can you do it with anything? Does the infusion cap adjust to glass bottles or plastic ones? Im trying to make a certain beverage and put it into capped glass bottles immediately after

Have you ever considered grouping together multiple pairs for heater current? You can split a high current wire into 2-4 smaller current wires. As long as they rejoin on both sides, its like having one wire. Further, if you use the twisted pairs for +/- of each of the split groups, you get crosstalk reduction if you want to have other signals on the remaining pairs. This makes sense theoretically. I have yet to try it. :)

Hey you might not read this but im lost, Everything works, i can create an account and after it says that no Realm is available. You might know what the problem is?

Awesome video man I'm going to come up with a design similar to yours.

Also, DrinkMate is available in EU (though they don't have the recycling program) while Sparkel isn't I've mostly used regular Sodastream, but I kind of gave up on it eventually and I have been buying cans of lightly flavored sparkling water (think La Croix or Liquid Death but a local brand), or also local mineral water. However I've gotten into a certain brand of powdered energy drinks (and their no caffeine versions) and I decided I'd love to be able to carbonate them directly WITHOUT doing all the waffle with exchanging the cylinders because whether it's post or going to a store directly it's just too much hassle for me, also expensive. So I'm seriously considering getting a Sparkel from ebay or through an import service, but I'm also kind of tempted by the DrinkMate since I can just order it from the EU store. So this review is really up my alley!

I know it's been 3 years but hey, amazing review! The one that sounds least like an ad and actually talks about everything that matters. For example the different feel of bubbles is something I have never seen mentioned about this machine before and could be important to some people.

And last year Twotrees dropped the SK1 (all linear axes), this year Sovol dropped the SV08 with 4 Z axes control with moving XY gantry and fixed bed allowing for a one machine multi-toolhead that can print, laser, route and pick and place. Time marches on and my bank account keeps shrinking.

Own the Sparkle - the waiting was annoying. I tend to view it like coffee maker. The bigger problem is cleaning the salt.

good information

Thank you! The drink mate was what I was looking for.

Hey Mikey, Been using a lot of your mods on my own X5SA 400 over the past couple years. Getting into some more mods on it now such as a ZeroG conversion with a switchwire print head. Now tackling this one but added up around $150 give or take for all the parts (on amazon) So to save some money and use more of the parts laying around from the printer, I have relocated the motors to be incorporated to the lower rod attachment points. This way I can mount the motor with coupler instead of using belts and pillow bearings while using the T8s that came with the printer and maintain height. Will be testing it soon and post remixes when done. ALSO I ended up printing the flush mounted 8mm rod clamps. Gonna see how those hold up. Awesome work though as always!

Sparkle has taken down the page that warns you against DIY carbonation. Anyone know why?

I owned 2 sparkel systems its great but it will fall apart quickly if you use it all the time. they make it sound like the problem was me mixing baking soda citric acid myself so the second time i use their sachets and it still breaks. This time i go with Drinkmate made in Taiwan and doesnt need you to pour water and churn bakingsoda in it which is the heart of the issue.

How are you sending your bed temps to home assistant and what relay are you using to switch off power to your printer. Are you querying moonrakers api in home assistant?

i am considering buying an X5SA-500. but most of the reviews are not good. I am looking for a large bed for bigger projects so I don't have to cut and glue. This is a reasonably priced option but haven't decided. Do you recommend this printer?

Carbonated milk? Yuck. But... 🤔 I'll be right back! I gotta go do something I'm going to regret!

The chalky taste of TUMS is not baking soda. It's calcium. Baking soda is not an ingredient in OTC antacids like TUMS or Rolaids. The main ingredient is calcium carbonate.

I have one and it doesn't work at all. I contacted the company refuses to help me. I will have their company in NJ closed so they cannot have them shipped in the United States.

Thank you for your review. 2 on the way. Thxs again

I have a drinkmate too. I just posted a hack on how to attach a 20lb tank with an adapter and save a ton of money on those proprietary tanks. th-cam.com/video/LXSpJ1oemHo/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Let me know what you think!

I have one and it does not work at all. The company is too stupid to help me. I sent the information and a video demonstrating what it was doing which is nothing.

This was great and included all of the information that I needed to make my choices. I just had one other question. Why do you have to drink it from that bottle? Can you not pour it into any other type of drinking container?

Can this be done on an Ender 6?

Firstly, for DC voltage, a threshold of around 30 volts is often considered relatively safe for brief contact. This is based on the concept that at low voltages, the body's natural resistance limits the amount of current flowing through it to levels that are unlikely to cause harm. However, depending on the current source it can be dangerous if the output is shorted in that it can cause severe burns. e.g. an automobile battery output is 12 volts with a current capacity > 200A and it can literally melt metal and if you're in its path then you'll be severely burned. Likewise, AC voltage can be more dangerous than DC voltage of the same magnitude due to its ability to induce muscle contractions, potentially causing the victim to be unable to release from the electrical source. For AC voltage, the threshold for safe touch is generally considered to be lower than for DC voltage. Around 50-60 volts (25v positive and then 25v negative) AC is often cited as a threshold for safety, again for brief contact. These are well established safety margins. I learned these margins long ago early in my career as an electrical engineer in the aerospace business. Secondly, the cork method will likely work fine but be aware that you're adding height to the bed and some printers may not allow you to compensate for that added height easily. You may be able to compensate in the firmware but many don't have the skills or wherewithal to know how to do that. So be cautious when doing this kind of modification and have a plan to compensate for any deviations from the original machine physical characteristics.

This is what I eventually want to do with my X5SA pro. I'm upgrading to a manta M8P v2 in the near future, so I should be able to do whatever I want with that board.

Hi, I just began to upgrade my x5sa-2e to linear rails with your design, now I encountered the issue, that my hotend doesn't fit into the bowden carriage. Could you edit or add this Hotend to your design? I'll be happy to assist with measurements, if needed. Best regards and thanks in advance Danial

So I can hook up the silicone heater to my mainboard? I don’t mind how long it takes I just want something simple for now.

You should never throw those bearings away brother you could use them for other projects.

Wait. What? 14:25 you said you have a solder joint on a mains heated bed? Umm. Am I misunderstanding what is being said. I have always been told that you should never, never have a solder joint on a heatbed connection anywhere. Can you please explain this for me... Thanks.

Do you have a Bowden bracket for the Proximity detector vs the BLTouch? I have bent too many pins on BLTs traveling over curled edges. The current print finishes fine, it is the NEXT print that fails dramatically. I know it is not as accurate as a BLTouch, but a raft, or a thicker first layer takes care of that.

In which material, you printed all these parts? Overall - great work! Clean, simple and sturdy update of good old Tronxy!

This sucks, I was looking at my belt alignment wondering why they built it that way then it dawned on me, I had built it wrong. At 12:02 you point out the issue BUT: I moved my pulley off the v-wheel and added a new bolt to the hole closest to the bed for the pulley. I know you didn't build the gantry parts, TronXY did and the instructions on my version: TronXY X5SA 'Junk' (v2) version shows the same as what you have there. I aligned the outer edge of the motor bracket with the center of the V-grove, the belts all line up now and I have extra belt left over (don't get me started on belt tensions...)

I use propane way more dangerous then co2

If you add all your stuff before carbonation you get better carbonation. It's science imagine adding flat soda to a none flat soda ew... thats basically what you do when adding after

3 minutes is a lifetime to some thirsty people. Lol