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How are you sending your bed temps to home assistant and what relay are you using to switch off power to your printer. Are you querying moonrakers api in home assistant?

i am considering buying an X5SA-500. but most of the reviews are not good. I am looking for a large bed for bigger projects so I don't have to cut and glue. This is a reasonably priced option but haven't decided. Do you recommend this printer?

Carbonated milk? Yuck. But... 🤔 I'll be right back! I gotta go do something I'm going to regret!

The chalky taste of TUMS is not baking soda. It's calcium. Baking soda is not an ingredient in OTC antacids like TUMS or Rolaids. The main ingredient is calcium carbonate.

I have one and it doesn't work at all. I contacted the company refuses to help me. I will have their company in NJ closed so they cannot have them shipped in the United States.

Thank you for your review. 2 on the way. Thxs again

I have a drinkmate too. I just posted a hack on how to attach a 20lb tank with an adapter and save a ton of money on those proprietary tanks. th-cam.com/video/LXSpJ1oemHo/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared Let me know what you think!

I have one and it does not work at all. The company is too stupid to help me. I sent the information and a video demonstrating what it was doing which is nothing.

This was great and included all of the information that I needed to make my choices. I just had one other question. Why do you have to drink it from that bottle? Can you not pour it into any other type of drinking container?

Can this be done on an Ender 6?

Firstly, for DC voltage, a threshold of around 30 volts is often considered relatively safe for brief contact. This is based on the concept that at low voltages, the body's natural resistance limits the amount of current flowing through it to levels that are unlikely to cause harm. However, depending on the current source it can be dangerous if the output is shorted in that it can cause severe burns. e.g. an automobile battery output is 12 volts with a current capacity > 200A and it can literally melt metal and if you're in its path then you'll be severely burned. Likewise, AC voltage can be more dangerous than DC voltage of the same magnitude due to its ability to induce muscle contractions, potentially causing the victim to be unable to release from the electrical source. For AC voltage, the threshold for safe touch is generally considered to be lower than for DC voltage. Around 50-60 volts (25v positive and then 25v negative) AC is often cited as a threshold for safety, again for brief contact. These are well established safety margins. I learned these margins long ago early in my career as an electrical engineer in the aerospace business. Secondly, the cork method will likely work fine but be aware that you're adding height to the bed and some printers may not allow you to compensate for that added height easily. You may be able to compensate in the firmware but many don't have the skills or wherewithal to know how to do that. So be cautious when doing this kind of modification and have a plan to compensate for any deviations from the original machine physical characteristics.

This is what I eventually want to do with my X5SA pro. I'm upgrading to a manta M8P v2 in the near future, so I should be able to do whatever I want with that board.

Hi, I just began to upgrade my x5sa-2e to linear rails with your design, now I encountered the issue, that my hotend doesn't fit into the bowden carriage. Could you edit or add this Hotend to your design? I'll be happy to assist with measurements, if needed. Best regards and thanks in advance Danial

So I can hook up the silicone heater to my mainboard? I don’t mind how long it takes I just want something simple for now.

You should never throw those bearings away brother you could use them for other projects.

Wait. What? 14:25 you said you have a solder joint on a mains heated bed? Umm. Am I misunderstanding what is being said. I have always been told that you should never, never have a solder joint on a heatbed connection anywhere. Can you please explain this for me... Thanks.

Do you have a Bowden bracket for the Proximity detector vs the BLTouch? I have bent too many pins on BLTs traveling over curled edges. The current print finishes fine, it is the NEXT print that fails dramatically. I know it is not as accurate as a BLTouch, but a raft, or a thicker first layer takes care of that.

In which material, you printed all these parts? Overall - great work! Clean, simple and sturdy update of good old Tronxy!

This sucks, I was looking at my belt alignment wondering why they built it that way then it dawned on me, I had built it wrong. At 12:02 you point out the issue BUT: I moved my pulley off the v-wheel and added a new bolt to the hole closest to the bed for the pulley. I know you didn't build the gantry parts, TronXY did and the instructions on my version: TronXY X5SA 'Junk' (v2) version shows the same as what you have there. I aligned the outer edge of the motor bracket with the center of the V-grove, the belts all line up now and I have extra belt left over (don't get me started on belt tensions...)

I use propane way more dangerous then co2

If you add all your stuff before carbonation you get better carbonation. It's science imagine adding flat soda to a none flat soda ew... thats basically what you do when adding after

3 minutes is a lifetime to some thirsty people. Lol

I was thinking of getting a Sparkel until you mentioned all the cleaning.

I was looking at these two units, but I read reviews about how these plastic units do break after a year or 2. Also, those tanks are not refillable and must be replaced offen. So I decided to go with a DIY system. I have a 5-lb C02 Tank, Dual Gauge Regulator, 1 rubber food-grade tube, and a Carbonation Cap, On all this from Amazon but if you have a local brewer supply you can get it from them. The Carbonation Cap fits on any standard 16oz, 1, and 2 Liter plastic soda bottle you buy in the store. I bought 4 of the plastic carbonation caps so I could leave it on my two liters after I filled them with carbonation. Those bottles a designed to be pressurized with CO2. (Do not use glass or plastic milk or water bottles they can not handle direct carbonation process CO2. You could use them to store the water after it has been carbonized) A 5LB tank lasts a lot longer. Getting those 5lb tanks filled is a lot easier than you may think. Just do a web search in your area for places that fill those tanks. Restaurants supply places that support soda machines usually do. Home Brewery supply places. Ask your local restaurants that have carbonation soda machines or your local bar that has draft beers. They gotta get their CO2 from somewhere. I live in a major city so finding places that filled CO2 tanks was easy. The cost of filling a 5-lb CO2 tank is a lot cheaper than replacing that 750-lm tank. It cost me $30 to fill it up and that's going to give me several months of drinks. Depending on how much carnation you use. The big complaint on TH-cam is that these tanks don't last long. It depends on how much carbonation you use. Once I make my carbonation water I pour it into an airtight pitcher add whatever flavor to it and use a mixer and I'm done. I can drink it at my leisure an airtight pitcher does a good job of holding the carbonation in. The initial cost of getting a DIY system will be around $200. But when you compare it to the cost of a Drinkmate with extra bottles and tank replacements the cost offsets itself really quickly. I had this set it up a week and I've already done like 8 gallons worth of drinks. Even done cold-brew iced tea with carbonation water.

Your ac silicone bed is very different from mine apparently. You’re showing just over 4 minutes to reach 95c while I did with mine (750 watts while yours is 700 watts) in just under 2 minutes.

I swapped out the hotend with an ender 3 one and now it's not heating up fast enough. I think the heat sink is just more efficient at cooling, it has a lot more fins than the previous one. Is there some way to make it heat up faster? With the hotend fan on at 100% it gets to like 95c and with the fan off, it gets to like 155c.

Hypercube FTW :)

So where are the links to the linear rails?

Really nice video. So really new in 3d printing. And bed leveling is a masive B. Now for example i have setup all as it should, but sometimes during movement, it sound like its scratching the precious layer. My question is, you said it should work with cube shape printers, i haave an ender 5 plus, will this work? Second, can it be used with Instanity Automation?

Hello I have bought myself one of these and it was quite an interesting build I built mine on christmas day and the only problem im having is auto levelling has my spring bottomed out i cant lower the value in the front right corner and im having trouble getting the machine exactly levelled my tronxy XY 2 works perfectly when i managed to get the bed levelled any ideas on how to get adjustment in the springs? i was wondering if i can lower the 2 rods holding the heat bed allowing me to lower the glass ant advice is much appreciated

I have the bulk tank adapter for my drinkmate. Have a 5 lbs tank that i refill locally. Saved a bunch and i love it.

Would you recommend going for the 400 series or the 330? Are there other printers you would recommend?

I'm in the process of building a huge printer and I was already gonna use Ethernet cable or UTP cable as we call it in the trade of low voltage, It's a universal cable. Then I saw this video and decided to share my tips. Works great for just about everything. Also alarm wire works but keep in mind that stuff is 22AWG. Comes in two and four conductor. Keep in mind with CAT5e it's 26AWG and 24AWG depending on the brand and you shouldn't go over 500mA per conductor so if you plan to run a stepper motor I would double up on the conductors. Also avoid copper plated aluminum. 2.54mm screw terminals will work on those RJ45 breakout boards. Speaking of RJ45 you want to add a good strain relief, RJ45 connections don't like moving around. You could terminate the conductors with B-Connectors but they will take up space but solder and heatshrink would work better.

Take it from a EE and use a power switch that switches the live and neutral. The switch is called a DPST switch. For the AC ground I would attach it to the aluminum plate that the silicone mat is sitting on since most beds have leveling springs or silicone standoffs.

wires(from device), to solder (PCB daughter board), to screw terminal, to connector (RJ45 plug), to connector (RJ45 receptacle), to cable (CAT6), to connector(RJ45 plug), to connector (RJ45 receptacle), to solder(second daughter board), to screw terminal, to cable (original), to connector(JST on main board) ... recipe for troubleshooting !

DO NOT make your own carbonator. You will destroy the machine and void your warranty. I know because that's what happened to me. They may not look like it, but these are VERY sensitive machines and putting them through the wrong pressure will wreck the parts. I made my own carbonator using these exact directions of citric acid and baking soda and now my machine doesn't work. If you can't afford to buy the official carbonators forever, then DON'T buy this machine.

Thanks aloot buddy i have a 330 and just printed 5 things whit it whit no mods as it came from the box and just had the stringing issue but nothing too bad and now looking forward to mod it because i love the damm thing... This was really handy thanks

7:31 Instead of all that long process or more belts/parts. I only printed two clip that look like small flag. I level my bed once. Then, I clip each flag on each screw facing both in same position. When I power on/off the printer, if one flag is slightly off compared to the other one, I just have to move the lagging one and now I know the bed is still leveled. I've found the part on Thingiverse long time ago, for Aneth A8 or A6.

Hi LiMikeys...Is this 3d printer with the upgrades, worth buying for a print farm?

Useful info, Im building a X350 x Y700 x Z450 bedslinger and was going to double up but buying a cut to size stand alone sounds good.

I have one question. Can some one tell me the dimensissions of the toothless pulleys i can't find out the outer diameter of the pulleys and the height of them and I know that the bore is 5 mm and the belt width is 6.5 mm for a 6 mm belt, but I don't know the diameter of the belt width?

do you prefer these over sodastream?

A few years into my machine and it still works great. The few times it has had issues it just required a good cleaning. They actually suggest that you unplug it and rinse the bottom area with hot but not boiling water to clean out any spilled or dried materials. No need to unscrew anything like this video suggests.

wonderful video, so in the end which is best, the Mofset or SSR? thanks

Would this work on an Aquila S2 with direct drive? Just have to find a direct drive dual extruder.

Great video! Love the comparison.

We purchased a Sparkel a few months ago and only used the sachets, never anything else. We empty the tray after every use and top up the rear reservoir to the fill line. After only a very few bottles, the machine would start to do strange things such as excessive drainage of the rear reservoir and fast filling of the tray. The bottle itself would lose much of the volume of what it was filled to prior to agitation. Frequent cleaning was required to rectify this. Eventually, water must have seeped into the electronics board and the machine was ruined. Sparkel was very good at sending a replacement unit. However, only using the machine a few times, the machine started to exhibit the behavior of the original Sparkel and addition, a puddle of water on our counter. I found an online video from Sparkel on doing a deep clean using warm water and vinegar but I question why I would have to do this after such little usage. I'll give it a go but right now I'm giving this a big thumbs down.

Id recommend adding some corner to corner 2020 extrusion too.

I never DYI with my Sparkel. The Waste water of the 2 packs started filling up from under the bottle and yuck. Trying the new Ninja Thirsti instead.

Fantastic!