Wiring Up A Metal Building
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2022
- In today's video, I show me wiring my new building. It ended up taking me a full day. I'm glad I was able to finish this up as now i'm able to get everything moved in!
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Light
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Level
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gyroscopic driver
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Wire Strippers
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Needle Nose
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Side Cutters
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Bit Set
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Locking Pliers
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Multi Screwdriver
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My Wife's Channel: / @simplysallie
DISCLAIMER FTC : This video is not sponsored. Links included in this description might be affiliate links. As an affiliate, I might earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. Thank you for supporting my channel! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Congrats on your progress, Jon. Looking great! Can’t wait to see the finished project.
Thank you! I'm over 90% finished up with organizing everything. That video will be coming soon!
When they pour the slab, they should put a step down around the perimeter so the R-panel can be mounted so the bottom edge is below floor grade.
Great Job, awesome video. Getting a similar building this summer, and this gives me some ideas
Thank you! If you have any questions along the process just ask. I’ll help to the best of my knowledge.
Great video. Just had my 25X40 built. Finding someone to wire it in these temperatures is not going well. Thanks again
Thank you! I know what you mean. Not many want to work, and the ones that do seem to want perfect weather. haha
Amazing video glad I found your channel!
Thank you, I’m glad you did too! 😃
Looks like your ceiling will be sweating. I have a metal barn I had to have spray foam insulation put in to keep it from sweating. I also have a new building similar to yours that does not have it in yet and yes it sweats. We intend on having spray foam insulation installed in the ceiling in that building as well. The cheap bubble stuff sometimes drops down. So, we are planning on getting it done soon. We need to free up a little money for that project because we don't borrow money for these projects, they are paid for without paying someone interest. Nice video. I still have to do my electrical too. I was thinking 8 gauge would work for me, but an electrician family member suggested I go with 6 gauge. Nice video.
I fortunately don’t have ceiling sweating. I did however have humidity inside on rainy days and some days in the summer. Which was causing some of my tools to get rust spots. What I did was put gable vents, and turbine vents to get the air moving inside. I made videos on that if you’re interested. That has fixed the humidity issues I was having.
To me … this is so exciting to watch. I love watching the progress!
One question: well think I just saw it - I was going to ask how you open and close the garage doors, but I see the ropes now hanging down. So why not install garage door openers?
Congrats on your building! I can’t wait to see it completely done!
You wouldn't believe it. But adding garage door openers to these was going to be thousands more! I said for that I'll open and close them myself haha and thanks! I'll be posting again soon of it finished up.
@@reallifetested2605 Wow! I can believe that, though. You’re doing a great job!
Thanks for the reply!
Add some J channel (rat channel ) on the outside to push the water away from the edge. I have a similar building and had it installed with that as part of my build. Also if you grab some spray foam insulation (Not the "Great Stuff" type) and just hit that bottom edge between the support and the metal sheeting, it will seal it up perfectly. I did that before insulating any of my building because I was having fine snow blow in at the base.
That's a great idea. I have quite a few other videos that I made to keep water out and to keep airflow through to keep the moisture down. We are getting another built soon for my wife and I am going to go the sealing, and insulation route on hers. She also wants A/C and all so it's going to be a ton of work. Thanks for checking out my video!
Do you have a video on doing the the sub panel? Great video BTW. My pole barn is just about done and I need to run electric to it.
Unfortunately I don't. :( I was pretty new to youtube when I started making all of these videos and didn't think to include the details that I should have. I made a video of me running the wire from another panel, and then this one. Thanks for checking out my video. I appreciate it!
First off great video. Secondly, quick question. I just got my 30X30 bldg built. 13 ft legs and 2 10x10 garage doors. Anyway when you ran the Romex cable did you have to drill through the metal studs, or were you able to run the Romex behind because of the groove in the panels?
Thank you! I apologize you couldn’t see it in the video. I was fairly new to TH-cam and my video skills aren’t the best. What I did was run the wire behind the studs in the corrugated areas of the sheet metal. When I got near a receptacle or somewhere that the wire needed to stay neatly in place I used a fmc strap with a self tapping screw. So far everything has been perfect.
@@reallifetested2605 FMC strap is accepted on romex? figured it was only for mx/bx. I just ordered bang-on clips by caddy with a hole to zip the wire along the beam edges.....
Was that a 15A breaker for your lights? What MC did you use (12/2 or ?) to make those long runs? I have a big shop and just learning but I think I can only go 70' on 12g. I'm having trouble figuring out if a light switch really needs bigger wire. My shop is 75' long and panel is in the back corner - so ideal light switch location is 50' forward to a bay door - then up outlet 1 & 2; then come back 20-25' to the 2nd pair and then back to the area where the panel is i could easily be at 100-125'... but a huge wire gauge to run a few lights seems wrong. Thoughts?
It really depends on how much current your lights draw. For example if you have 10 lights and they pull 2 amps each that would be 20 amps. That means you need to use the correct wire gauge that could safely handle 20 amps, and you'd need to select the proper size breaker that could protect everything downstream of it. Once you figure out how much current you'll be pulling, you can google wire gauge calculator. There are a ton of calculators online that you can enter your information such as voltage, current, length ac/dc, etc. Also need to make sure the switch you use can handle the current your lights are drawing as well. Hopefully that was a little help!
Nicely done. I see you ran your wire between tin and posts. Im just wondering if that passed inspection. I was thinking of running mine the same way.
Honestly I don't know if it would pass inspection or not. What they can't see won't hurt them. 🙃
@@reallifetested2605 did it pass inspection?
Awesome Video. Looking To Buy A Steel Metal Building 2 Level. With The 2nd Level Being The Upper Balcony & The Lover Level Being The Main Floor & The Entire Structure Would House My Very Own Home Theater With A Fully Functioning STAGE On Which One Can Fully Perform, Act Upon. This Would Also Be ALL Sound Proofed Inside. Looking Like A Breeze Wiring Such A Building. I Believe This Build Is Going To Be Absolutely Incredible.
Thank you! My wife and I almost did the same thing you're talking about as a sort of "barndominium" minus the stage. That would be pretty cool to have a full functioning stage. This thing was pretty easy to wire. We're planning on building another one soon but fully insulated with a/c for my wife so stay tuned!
I read through most of the comments about the lights and still have questions. You got the 240w option, right? How high do you have them mounted? I just built a 40x60 with 12’ walls and 17’ peak. Trying to determine how many I am going to need to keep shop RIDICULOUSLY bright! Great video! Thanks!
Yes I got the 240w lights. My walls are 11’ and I’d guess the peak is somewhere around 14-15’. I have them mounted not much lower than the ceiling peak. It’s bright but it’s not crazy bright. I’d imagine instead of 4 lights wide you’d want to go 5 lights wide (my building is 24x41) just a wild guess but sounds like you need at least 15 to be insanely bright. One thing to keep in mind is wire size. These lights pull 2.4 amps each at 120v.
Get brush seals for the rollup doors
I didn't even know they had these. I put an a/c in my wifes garage and am checking into putting these in her garage for extra insulation. Thank you for the information!
What type wire did you use for the welding receptacle?
I need to run one 220v for an AC mini split unit.
Is it MC 10/3?
It is 10/3 mc. If you check through my videos I made one of me installing a mini split for my wife’s shop. For that I used 12/3 uf cable, and used a flex conduit coming out of the ac unit. You can check the current draw of the unit because you may not need that large of wire, it’s a lot more expensive (or was at the time) 12 gauge is rated for 20 amps. The 10 gauge I used is for 30 amp draw.
You should look into a mini split with hybrid solar that way if you add 3x what the it says to use you can run A/C or heat pump 24/7 at no cost on you electricity bill. If it’s not running it’s giving back power and lowering the overall cost of electricity bill.
Hi. I have the exactly same building the you do. How much wire did you need total? I think you mentioned that you used 8g wire from the main to the subpanel and 10/3mc wire for the other wire, is that correct? Would you mind sharing the amounts you needed for all that?
On the wire length I'm honestly not sure. I had a huge spool of 12/2 MC that I had gotten 10 years ago and finally had a use for it. For main power sizing it's up to whatever power requirement you're going to have. You need larger wire if you're going to run higher currents. If you're doing longer runs you will need larger wire as well to prevent voltage drop under load. I don't know your exact situation and don't want to tell you the wrong information, I hope this makes sense.
How did you run the MC Cable in the corners because it looks to be too tight to get the wire to go behind the corner stud??
I couldn’t remember myself so had to go out and look. You’re right I didn’t run it around the backside of the stud. I just gave it a nice smooth bend and strapped it to the stud with an mc strap and self tapping screw.
How do you ground in a metal building like this? Trying to figure out if I ground to the panel or just to the building?
I would search into the code for your specific scenario. In my case I just tied it to the already bonded ground from my home.
I suggest you put in two ground rods and connect them to the ground bar in the sub panel. Ground rods are for lightning protection and are required for subpanels in separate buildings.
Also, did you comply with Article 225.30 of the NEC? A disconnecting means is required at or near the point where it enters a separate building. Since you have a MLO panel, there is no main breaker, so I’m thinking you did not comply with that rule.
Best wishes, Kevin
I had a master electrician check it out and said a ground rod wasn't needed because it's connected to the main ground and that if I had connected another ground rod it would create a ground loop? Not sure honestly I just took his word for it. I do have a ground bar just not in this video (not trying to make a how to) I do not have a disconnect on this. I had my other garage built by "pros" and it has the same panel and passed inspection, should it not have? Thanks for the good information, looking forward to your reply.
I could be wrong, but my understanding is a sub panel with 6 or less circuits does not require a disconnect.
what are the lights you used in your building? I like them and how bright and wanted to see what they are.. Was hoping you would say or put link in the description..
Out of all the things I linked, you would've thought I would add the lights. haha! My apologies for that. You can find them here. I'll also add them to the description as well. Thank you!
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Doesn't MC require a hold down fastener every 6ft?
Codes require a lot of things that pass inspection when they’re not done. Not sure if you’ve ever worked in construction but it happens everyday. Especially when it’s hot, there’s a lot of money involved, and people are lazy.
Light switch behind the door would be annoying after awhile. Cool shop and good video.
Luckily the door opens to the outside so I usually just flip the switch as I walk in and i'm good to go! Thanks for checking out my video.
@@reallifetested2605 I should have realized that. Here it's not normal for a man-door to swing out.
Just found your channel, curios why you didn't use 1900 boxes, would seem easier, there's 3 knockouts on each side and gives u flexibility for single or 2 gang boxes, would have worked with the covers you got too, good job though always cheaper to do things yourself!
No particular reason really, these just seem a little more heavy duty (like that matters) also seems like they would do a better job of keeping dust out. (They probably won't haha) Thanks for checking out my video, definitely cheaper doing all of this yourself!
Did you not have to bond the panel ground bar to the steel frame of the building?
With an electrical background this one puzzled me as well. I asked a buddy that’s a master electrician. As long as it’s grounded in the main panel that’s all you need otherwise you’d get a ground loop. He showed me the code but you know I don’t remember it haha
Nice video but looking for a video on how to actually hook up a receptacle and switch
That sounds like a good video idea for the future. This specific video wasnt a how to, it was more just an overview of me hooking everything up. Thank you for watching!
What brand and type of lights are you running?
I think I linked them in the description (I can’t remember) but! I got them off of Amazon. The brand is bft, 240 watt version. They’re called led high bay lights. In the almost 2 years they’ve been hanging and used daily I can definitely recommend them.
Is it okay to use Romex in a metal building?
I guess you're meaning nm Romex? I don't see why not. The only reason I wouldn't is because it's not protected by anything other than a thin insulator. In a metal building you're probably going to occasionally accidentally snag a shovel, rake, bolt cutters (you get what I mean) on the exposed wiring and the MC has a better chance of not being damaged. It also stands up better against the occasional rodent or bird messing around. Best case would be thhn in conduit but that is a lot of work and expensive.
What are the specs on your building? Are you going to insulate it?
I don't remember exactly, but pretty sure its a 24 x 40 x 11 tall. The reason they did 11 tall is because I wanted 10' roll up doors. I didn't insulate because this is mainly going to be used for storing equipment, tools etc.
What are the lights you installed
I put a link in the description if you want to check them out. I checked and they are right at 80 dollars a piece right now which is a good deal. I paid around 100 for them when I did this.
what size is you building please..i just built a 24x50 and am wondering if 4 lights will be enough for my spcae, thank you in advance.
Perfect timing. I just sat down to respond to comments and yours popped up! It's a 24 x 41. So 4 of these lights should be perfect.
What brand lights are they? I have 24x40 myself
What lights are you using?
My apologies for not mentioning, i'm fairly new to youtube. But am getting better with details like this. BFT LED High Bay Light 240W UFO 5000K if you type that in on amazon that will give you what you're looking for. They're awesome lights. Extremely bright, and easy installation.
@@reallifetested2605 Did you install receptacles/outlets where your LED light is on the ceiling or just hard wired it into the light switch? Did you use the dimmer capability of the lights as well or didn't mess with that? Thanks.
@@JP-xd6tb The lights just came with L, N, and Gnd wires sticking out. What I did was get just a regular metal box with a blank plate. Used (2) cord grips, one for my main power coming in, and one for the light. That ended up working out perfect. If I ever have a light go bad I can just go up there and loosen the cord grip, un wirenut the old light and change it out. Thanks for checking out my video.
@@reallifetested2605 Thanks for making the videos. Never know who it helps out there! I noticed you ran the MC cables on the ceiling but underneath the cross braces and then screwed it in. Why not run it above, so you'd have more support running it across each 5 foot section from one end to the other end?
@@JP-xd6tb you're very welcome. Thank you for checking them out! To answer your question on the wire routing. To make a very long story short, ocd lol
and you need a bond to the steel building at the right place.
I responded to your other comment. I appreciate you looking out for me.
That needs four wires with the neutral and ground separated in the panel, and a ground electrode to the grounding terminal bus , you should get a qualified electrician to look it over
You know I had a master electrician that is currently an inspector check over everything and said it was good? I asked about the ground rod and he said since it was already grounded from the main it would be a ground loop. Hopefully he’s right haha
bet,
Slow down part of it so we can see how to attach receptacles to the steel
My apologies. The metal gang boxes I used have tabs on them, I used self tapping screws to mount them to the frame of the building.
You need a separate ground bar on a sub panel.
They are separated. I have my ground coming from the main panel on my other shop. I should have put that part in the video, but yes I did get a separate ground bus for that. Thanks for looking out for me though! I was fairly new to youtube (still am) and didn't think to include details of things.
LoL get a bigger box.
know where near enough breaker space..youll seee
I set it up like that because this is only going to be used for storage. (mainly) I have it set up to be able to handle (2) air compressors or a welder, or an air compressor and plasma cutter. I'll never run more then that at one time by myself. Now my wifes shop... that panel is a different story.
Dude I hopped your going to straighten out the loose wire so it looks neater
I built industrial machines for over 10 years. It’s a habit to always leave extra where possible because it’s easier to add on in the future. Better to have a little extra than pull everything tight and neat. Hopefully that makes sense.