I THINK IT'S RIGHT.. 100 Amp Sub Panel install Metal building dream garage build Ep.8
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2022
- Installing and wiring a 100 Amp sub panel in my metal building. Follow along as I build my dream garage and share the highs and lows along the way.
#metalshopcost #dreamgaragebuild
26x40 metal building dream garage on a budget.
100 Amp sub panel install and wiring video
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Liquid tight is fine, as is Romex by itself, but you made so much extra work and expense for yourself. MC cable would have been a perfect choice for a metal building. Also, when attaching your pigtails to the receptacle screws, you want to crank em down with a flat head. The impact gun’s torque doesn’t do a great job on those. And you definitely want them tight to afford arcing in the future. Good luck.
Thanks man I actually priced out the MC cable with everything else and it actually saved me some money going Romex with the liquid tight. The MC seemed to be really pricey in my area. Good tip on the pig tails I’ll double check them with a flat head thanks again.
@@ProjectDadLife Oh wow thats nuts brother. MC is about $10 more than Romex per 250’ roll here in SC. Building is looking good though, Im getting ready to start one now - and Im stressing out with all the money Im going to have to spend lol.
@@ProjectDadLife The hassle of feeding Romex through flexcon quantifies just using MC when it comes to effort and efficiency. Had my whole shope wired in 4 hrs with MC. Yeah there are a couple extra things you need to install it but they are trivial.
Looks good!
I have been kind of binge watching all of the episodes! Outstanding progress on the Dream Garage!
Haha thank you I love your support!
I am starting the same project in a metal building. This video was helpful. Thank you.
That’s awesome I’m glad it helped. Good luck in your project hope it goes well
You had did a very professional job we like it keep up the good hard work for 2023
Thank you for the support
Great job man.
Thanks man.
Make sure yours grounds are bonded to the box, that bar is not touch the cabinet so you have to do it.
new sub, and a UK electrician, DIYers like you are awesome (yeah nobody expected that).... learn the rules, follow them, bob's your uncle
Thanks man! Appreciate the support!
A great project you have going there. The trials and tribulations you've been through are what life's all about, yes? You're doing a fine job on dealing with them too.
FWIW, I can offer a small suggestion on your receptacles up top. You might want to orient those so that they are pointing down. In my experience, over the years, dust and debris, combined with moisture will accumulate in the receptacles and may cause you headaches down the road.
Also, ditto on the GFCI breakers suggested by Vincent.
Absolutely, point the receptacles facing down.
I work a southwire mc plant that manufactures the cabling and the liquitite. I'm fixing to wire my shop and its definitely the way to go.
Don’t lol, it’s a bitch to pull wire through over long distances. EMT and surface mount it, call it a day
@@trevorthefisherman5548 yeah thats what I meant lol I'm surface mounting mc cable. Liquitite is really only good for short pulls.
I doubt his code says he can use PLASTIC boxes. Use metal boxes, 12/2 metal clad, fasten metal clad every 18”, ground your metal boxes for outlets and switches, GFCI your first outlet in your string of outlets, 20 amp Breakers with the 12/2 MC. I hung 4 Amazon UFO lights (2 per switch) and I have PLENTY of light in my 26Wx40Dx 14H sidewall metal building. I AM LOVING MY METAL BUILDING!!!
I built an 18'x25' metal building very similar to yours. I just ran 80' of 2awg alu wire to my main panel in my house and I am mounting the sub panel in the shop today. Not sure if you got quotes to have spray foam insulation installed but I got two and they both quoted me $4500 which is like half off what I paid for the damn shop!
Awesome,. Yes same here got a few foam quotes. There proud of that stuff I’ll pass. Thanks for watching
yep my Shops 22'x22' and near the same, Im looking towards DIY Spray foam kits, there's a TF-600FR from Tiger Foam for $785, Im calculating 2 for walls, and May take a 3rd for Roof.
Also use MC cable in a metal building
I'm from Australia and live in Florida. I'm an electrical contractor, or was, in Australia. Black is always neutral over there and any other color is live, except green. It has been quite the learning journey for me in the US as so many things aspects of house wiring is just plain unsafe by comparison. For example, the outlets. In Australia, you can remove a live outlet and it is impossible for your fingers to come into contact with a live terminal until you turn it over to access the back of it. I have had quite a few electric shocks in the US pulling live light switches and outlets off the wall. But, it is only girls' voltage 110 in the US.
I've always thought black being live was odd coming from automotive because that's usually neutral or common, good to know its a little more consistent elsewhere lol.
Thanks for the video! Can you tell me what size the panel is inside the house? Is it a 200 amp panel?
I use liquid tight flex conduit all the time installing commercial refrigeration equipment, but I've never seen it used on an interior wall. Probably because of the price and you can't cover it with a wall per code (at least where I'm from). The shop is looking great! I really need to build one. My garage just seems to be getting smaller and smaller.
Thanks man. Yea the stuff works pretty good. One reason I used it and forgot to mention when and if I ever cover the walls with Sheetrock or barn wood etc, I’m just going to unscrew the clamp mounts and remount again to the outside of the new wall. Figured i had some movability options with it down the road. I might try metal conduit when I run my welder wire though but keep the same movability concept for
The walls. Thanks for the support bro.
You can run sealtight inside a wall, its a raceway. As long as you strap it per code all good
Kudos to you for doing your own work. However, you could have used BX or MC cable, which has a flexible metal conduit around the wires. I'm sure the cost would have been the same as the conduit and the Romex cable. Plus it is a lot less work. Also metal boxes and some type of metal conduit is required to protect all wiring in all outbuildings. I'm not trying to be a Debbie Downer; just relaying what the National Electrical Code states. Thanks for the video. Enjoy your new building!
Like storage buildings… “yeah that will be big enough”. One year later… I wish I (fill in the blank) 😂. Looks great 👍 enjoy it. Every man should have a mancave!
How did you attach the wood to the framing and whatvsize is it?
I’ve built many shops, use 12 gauge 20 circuits for everything. You’re lift should be 220v and if it calls for 10 amp, put in 20. I don’t know if you’re lift is hydraulic or not but plan on the future. My shop 30’x40’ and for woodworking requiring more but and I have planned a 200 amp service.
Shop build starts next month and not metal but frame construction. I need insulation as we get as low as 7 degrees in winter and sometimes 2’ of snow and over 100 degrees in the summer. Arizona at 4300 feet. 🥶🥵
Enjoyed your build a lot.
You helped me sway away from metal. I also want it to look like the house more.
Why would you need a 200amp service for your wood shop? Just asking.
I have a 30x40 with a combined wood/metal shop and just pulled 100amp off the house. I cannot imagine using even 100amps at one time in my shop and it has a minisplit. Not trying to disparage you, just wondering how many tools your running at once. The most I have been able to pull with the lights, tablesaw, planer, mill, lathe and compressor running is 50amps. That is way more tools than will ever be running at one time in my shop even with a couple employees.
@@mattozx6rr I plan on have about 75 HP
worth of equipment. A 20 HP phase converter running all day that goods for 60 HP of machine’s. 7.5 compressor.10 HP dust collector 2 5hp table saws 15 hp straight line rip saw. Wide belt sander at least 8 20 amp 110 volt outlets with 4 per circuit. 5 hp jointer. 13” planer and a 25” planer with plans for a two sided planer total of 40 + hp with a separate phase converter and someday a 4 sided molding machine.
I figure 40-50 percent use at one time.
@@billboy7390 Thats way too much equipment for a 30x40 even being able to move stuff out of the way. Your 40 to 50% utilization would indicate you also have or will have employees. For the equipment listed by you I would have atleast doubled the square footage as there is way too much equipment for a 30x40 and you still have to have work surfaces like benches and tables. But hey, you do you.
@@mattozx6rr one man shop. A couple machines will be outside. Did it when living in Phoenix. I’m Al’s in a wheelchair. I have a system and plan to mostly plan on a millwork business. And if I need to add more space I have room. Thanks for you input and concerns.
Great to see your metal building build. I am just starting something similar for a storage building next to my shop. Same 2" square tubing with metal siding. I appreciate the tips on watching the level of detail of the contractor work.
I have a few electrical things to point out from watching your videos.
Your LB right angle conduit boxes are not installed correctly. The conduit boxes need to be physically secured to the panels on each end. They need a male Terminal Adapter (TA), with a short (2-3") piece of conduit. The TA is threaded on one end and has a solvent weld socket on the other end. The threaded end goes through the panel and takes a large nut that secures it to the panel. The short piece of conduit is solvent welded into the TA and then into the LB.
I am also concerned about the ground wires in your ceiling mounted junction boxes. You have two romex runs meeting in the boxes, there should be a pigtail ground wire (6-8") from the receptacle ground screw to the two ground wires and then the three ground wires on a wire nut. The receptacle ground screw is not rated for two wires under the screw.
For "next time" your subpanel could have been mounted with the main breaker down, it would have simplified your main feed routing.
Romex in a conduit is a good point. It is OK, but can generate too much heat with that much conduit fill. A better solution is THHN individual wires in the conduit then a junction box with wire nuts where you convert to romex.
It looked like you ran two romex circuits in the same conduit. You can not run more than three current carrying conductors in the same conduit unless you derate, meaning reduce the size of, the circuit protection breakers. That is four 14 gauge wires would only be rated for 12 amps in the same conduit. The white and black are both current carrying. It is a heat generating thing. The two romex should be in separate conduits.
An interesting workaround is a multiwire circuit. Three wires, typically black, white and red. The white is neutral the red and black go to two adjacent terminals on a duplex breaker. The two circuits are energized from either side of your 240v feed, providing 120v to each circuit. It sounds like the white would be carrying 30 amps, but the AC waveform means the white is only seeing half of the total for each 120v side of the 240v feed. They must be on one breaker handle, therefore the duplex breaker.
I run 12-3 multiwire to all my quad outlet boxes. I get 20 amps to each duplex receptacle, they can then be converted to 240v if needed in the future for a machine tool or the like.
An attached residential garage requires GFCI outlets, a shop building does not, for NEC pre 2020. Check which NEC version your jurisdiction requires. I do use GFCI on any external outlets on my shop buildings.
Need help here. What is 12/2/2 and is it better that 12/3 that you mentioned ? I heard there are down sides to that multi-wire thing and was wondering if you could help?
@@keithharrington4595 We are talking about a cable, which is an "assembly of conductors (wires)" in the same jacket. The 12 refers to the wire gauge, the smaller the number the larger the wire. The larger the wire the more current, in amps, it can carry. The -2, -3 (a slash "/" is not normally used) refers to a count of the number of wires in the bundle. Only current carrying wires are in the count, the ground is not counted (except in power cords, like extension cords, let's not go there now).
The wire must be protected by a current limiting device like a fuse or breaker. This is to prevent overheating of the wire and possible fire. A circuit breaker is used to protect the wiring not the devices being powered by the circuit. In most situations a 12 gauge wire is good for 20 amps, a 14 gauge for 15 amps. There are applications that allow 12 gauge to carry 25 amps and applications that limit it to 15 amps. The -2 is your "normal" single circuit carrying wiring providing power to a receptacle or light fixture. The -3 is used for carrying two circuits or 240v to devices that also require a neutral or special switching applications, like a three way light switch arrangement.
There is no downside in a multiwire circuit as long as it is installed properly. The source breaker must be a double pole breaker. Taking power from two adjacent locations in the panel. It must operate under one handle, so both circuit wires are deenergized at the same time. Neutrals, white wires, must be tightly terminated.
The problems I have seen with multiwire: 1) not using adjacent feeds, causing double the allowed current on the neutral 2) using two single pole breakers, so turning off one breaker does not deenergize the other circuit making working on an outlet or light fixture dangerous 3) neutral not tight causing the 240v to try to flow between devices instead of 120v to ground. The latter is hard to diagnose. You see two different devices that seem to not work or lights that get very bright or dim as other things are turned on/off. But these issues don't occur if the installation is correct.
I have had numerous multiwire circuits in my house and shop for over 35 years with no issues. I have also had to diagnose a multiwire in my daughters house that was not installed correctly that took two full days to figure out.
@@duncancomputer thanks
I was looking at running.12-2-2 or 12-4 to reuse the old breakers, but if 12-3 is still code, i will have to compare the new breaker cost with the cable expense to see which is a cheaper route to go.
Do you have a code reference so I can impress the inspector?
@@keithharrington4595 I don't know what 12-2-2 is and have never seen a 12-4 cable (other than 12-4 cord for 3 phase w/ground or 240v device w/neutral and ground).
@@duncancomputer I guess 12-2-2 is the same as a 12-4 with two whites instead of a blue
How did you bolt the panel to the building?
In the video you mentioned quotes you had gotten for an electrician to come do the work. How much were the quotes you got if you don’t mind me asking?
Pull Romex ! Put a pipe thru the center of the roll and pull the romex the way it’s wound! It should spin so the memory is removed!!
Thanks man I tried that. Seems like with the smaller rolls not on a spoil it was difficult
How did you route your Metal Clad Electrical cable with the vertical style panneling around the supports? Did you go in front or behind?
I'm about to build a building too and am looking for examples of routing the MC wire.
Most of it I ran to the top of wall then left or right! It’s still a pain though but it works
The neutral wire is a Current Carrying Conductor .
Your light switch had a direct short in it. You had the white neutral on one screw of the switch and the hot black on the other switched screw! I bet that surprised you when you tried to turn on the lights!
Not surprises yet. I’ll have to go back and watch lol thanks for the heads up
Those were just travelers. Goes down white, back up black. (or Vise Versa)
Through YT magic, I found your channel -- specifically dealing with this build. I sub'd after watching the successful completion of the building (2nd video I watched). Been waiting for the wiring to come around, and... I'm a little disappointed. I worked in commercial/industrial electrical for years (retired), seldom dealt with simple 120VAC. However, I'm pretty sure NEC requires horizontally placed receptacles be pointing downwards-- which is why floor-mounted receptacles are no longer allowed (by "floor-mounted" I mean receptacles flush with the floor). Anyway: I think your rafter receptacles are upside-down. Also, I believe NEC prefers whips from a junction box hard-wired into the light fixtures, rather than plugged in with a cord to a receptacle. My 25' X 30' steel building (garage) is wired through conduit throughout, and whips connecting all 6 light fixtures (8 foot fluorescents) to their junction boxes. This garage was built years before my wife and I bought the house-- so I had no input on that.
As long as it is an approved assembly floor mounted receptacles are allowed Article 210.71(B)(2),314.27(B)]
Why run 2 hots and 2 neutrals to each receptacle? As you mentioned, the outlets are connected to each other in each receptacle. I'd have added cover plates to keep bugs/birds from involving themselves in them. Looks good though. Out of curiosity, where did you drive in your grounding stake?
I think he was jumping the power to the box next to it, Normally you would Connect 2 Outlets with Pigtails not Jump from one plug to the other, if the first plug goes out it normally shuts them both down.
If you have the sub panel bonded you would electric flowing on the grounds going back to the main panel which is very dangerous.
It’s not bonded! Removed the bonding strap completely
What company did your building?
How thick is your cement slab ? I just put up a building like yours
3.5” probably 4” in some spots
GFCI outlets is required by code for garages
Yep that’ll be added to the fix list. I’m sure it won’t be the only thing lol
@@ProjectDadLife Use GFCI breakers instead of the outlets, easier and protects everything on that line
Should used 12/2 wire it’s a shop plugs should be 20 amps
By what standard are the receptacles required to be 20 ampere rated. They are not a single receptacle on a dedicated 20 amp circuit.
Do not use plastic boxes in a metal building
If I were you I would put a piece of plywood between the box & wall. I also prefer to wrap electrical tape around the outlets/switches. Always better to put in a 200 amp box for you never know what you might need.
Some counties don't allow electrical tape. It can be a fuel source in a fire.
I recommend you talk with an electrician about being a consultant. Tell them you want to do it yourself, but you want help with the right way.
The 2020 NEC puts shops and out building like yours into the garage category for GFCI protection. If you do it with a breaker, you must return to your panel to reset it. If you do it with a recepticle to feed a string of recepticles, your get the protection with a $8 breaker and $20 amp recepticle instead of a $50 GFCI breaker.
If your trench is open to supply power, put in a large pipe ( 1 1/2 inch for 200 amps) and a few 3/4 or 1 inch pipes for stuff like cable or a switch in the house and a flashing light in the shop to warn you of an emergency in the home. Yeah, yeah, cell phone, yeah, yeah, but will you hear it ring while you work? Don't be that guy digging his trench back up because you need another pipe or tried to save and ....
Oh, the metal boxes need to be connected (pig tailed) to the circuit grounding conductor, if you used a blank cover on the light boxes, you could hard wire the lights and use those recepticles else where.
Wire nut packages should indicate the size and number of wires each wire nut size is good for.
For your recepticles, I encourage pig tailing. If one recepticle fails, the rest should stay working, except for the GFCI.
I like the "lever nut" wire connectors for home owners, Wago. They are reusable and more forgiving if a mistake is made, but more expensive.
If you are not stuffing wires into boxes every day, i encourage putting cheap electrical tape around your switches and recepticle. It is not an NEC requirement, but let a ground touch a hot in your box and you will be undoing your hard work to "move a wire".
Hope that helps
Keith, thanks for that update. I did not know NEC 2020 had changed the outbuilding status regarding GFCI.
Right on the money, ditto!
Because the outlets face up I would put outlet protectors on unused ones to keep the dust out.
If want to maybe plan for a 200 amp 1 1/2: is not big enough. Garage have been gfci for a few code cycles now
@@duncancomputer So, if the area he is located has adopted 2017 or older NEC, then 2020 NEC does not apply.
For your information, you can`t run Romex in any type of conduit. Check your NEC for uses of Romex.
All the circuits should be GFCI
Per National Electrical Code they have to be
@@thomasmarable6818 Which version of NEC? What if this place is the same as where my son just bought a house? The adopted NEC for that county is 2002 NEC.
I don’t think any of this is a code to use metal boxes MC cable in a metal building might be wrong but the
You do NOT need to run ROMEX in conduit! The extra insulation can cause overheating issues when the wire/load is close to max. I have done HVAC work for most of my life and have pulled several whips apart to find burnt out wires. Hooked whip back up with single strand wires and tested amps and no overload on the wires to unit. Check or ask your electrical inspection to confirm. I am an HVAC tech not an electrician, but around here you will get turned down if the inspector sees the paper or orange plastic insulation peeking through the connector.
Yes - here locally you cannot run ROMEX inside conduit. It's against code however, it may be a completely different set of codes where you are.
Stick with hvac code requires it on anything below 7 feet
@@trekOCLVone where are you at, its not against the NEC
@@thomasmarable6818 I had some wiring under an exposed covered deck roof for lighting and contracted with a licensed electrician and he found Romex inside plastic conduit. (done before my time). The electrician said that needs to be individual black/white/green strained wires and redid the run. The conduit was the gray plastic. He had it rewired in minutes and said now it is done right. That is what I based my comment on.
@@trekOCLVone Technically you are correct. There is an exception where the NM cable is exposed to possible damage (below 8’) then it is allowed in conduit to protect it from damage. There are a few other exceptions that were made over the years, but most seem to have been removed. My opinion though is, NM cable generally speaking should not be run in conduit.
Some of the "professional" people go overboard with the rules in trying to be perfect
I would never install POS blue light special plastic boxes in any garage. Would use 3/4" EMT conduit from panel to branch off. Electricians seldom use sealtite conduit like you did. Only use it to feed motors , AC units and where flexibility is needed. Illegal to use a cordless tool to tighten any electrical screw or bolt. MUST use a torque driver or torque wrench. Poor choice installing receptacles face up. Dirt will enter it and guess where water leaking from roof is going to go. I always install red anti short bushings on both MC & AC cable no matter what the flimsy push on mickey mouse connectors state.You should have installed 6/32 screws with Loch washers & hex nuts to top & bottom of receptacles you mounted on 1900 boxes. Single screw in middle of a receptacle often come loose. Would not use any type NMB cable ( romex ) in that Size garage in case in the future it converts to a commercial garage where at least in my area must use conduit or MC cable. Had a cabin catch on fire after an animal chewed thru romex cable.
All good tips thanks!
Did this electrical Pass Inspection? Because you have Light Plugs near the roof with the Plugs facing upwards, if you were to ever get a leak, possibly even from condensation, water could drop dead into the plug. also a Question, you added a 100 amp sub-panel, what is your main-panel amperage? also, you separated the Left and Right Neutral Bar, which Means Breakers on One side will have to Connect across to the Opposite side Neutral, Normally you just Add a Ground Bar for Ground wires separate from the 2 Neutral Bars? ... Ah I see you just ran Breakers on Right side, this is Fine as Long as someone else does not walk in stick a Breaker on the left and connect the neutral to your Now Ground. (Add-in Ground Bars are like 10 bucks)
liquid tight
Romex can't go in conduit due to heat retention.
Hundred amp nowhere near enough your freezer taking 20 if you hook up a welder it’s gonna 50 now you’ve already used up 70A. You always go bigger than you need because you’re going to add lights electric heaters welders saws and a whole bunch of other tools that like power
Thank you. I figured when I’m welding I physically can’t operate any other power equipment at the same time. So didn’t count the welder as taking 50 amps.
John Winkler. Never never never add breaker handle ratings to size anything. You always use loads in VA. and calculate amps.
You’re wiring technique is good however I want to point out voltage drop. In the vide when you were way up high wiring the plug receptical fir your lights in the plastic box you will experience voltage drop. Let me explain. You have a hot wire coming in to the receptical and the receptical will power the wire going back out to where you have it going. Essentially you are using the receipt as a wire nut to power another wire. Doing this creates voltage drop and whatever you power next may not see the same voltage as the first stop from the main hot wire As far as I know national code dictates that your incoming hot wire and the wire that will receive power must be wire nutted together with a pigtail coming from the nut to the receptical. So you will have in each nut three wires incoming outgoing and the pigtail that attaches to the receptical so in your case on that particular box you should have 3 black 3 white and three grounds. Another tid bit if you wire two different circuits to a 2 gang box all neutrals must be wired together and all grounds must be wired together. I’m not an electrician but I’ve done my homework and please check up on what I have said here. No my own personal opinion and how I rewired my whole house I used 12-2 and 20 amp circuits on everything just to make sure I have room to grow on the myriad of electronics that seem to make themselves into the houses. I don’t think I’ll ever need to upgrade wiring in my house again.
I think you might have a misconception or two.
The NEC does not require "pig tailing", though it is my preferred method. It allows a failure of one recepticle to only effect that one recepticle while the others should work fine.
Ohm's law ..... E = I x R. P = E x I
Connecting up a wire on the panel hot, going to a light, then returning to the panel gives you a circuit that lights with the breaker on.
With a 100 w old school bulb you get almost one amp of current.
P = E x I. Or 100 w = 120v x I
But if our wire has some resistance to it. 2020 NEC ch 9 table 8 has # 14 wire at about 3 ohms per 1000 feet.
So, if our wire to the light was 1000 feet long ... The wire would use/resist about
E = I x R or 3 volts ( 1 amp x 3 ohms ) on the hot and 3 more on the neutral, dropping the voltage at the light to about 114 volts or dropping 6 volts.
2020 NEC 210.19 information note 3 restricts branch circuit volt drop to 3%.
Now, let's use the above light situation to say ..... Only time The neutrals of one circuit to that one circuit in the box. So in a box with circuit 5 and 7, there should be two groups of neutrals .... One for 5 and one for 7. 2020 NEC 200.4.(A).
Back to the light.....if you remove power from circuit 7 and open the neutrals, circuit 5 current will drop to "no flow" zero. yet still be supplied 120 volts. So back to our circuit....
E = I x R
The hot wire will have zero volts used from our 120. E = I x R or 120 = 0 x 3 sending the full 120 volts on to the light.
Again, the light will now use zero volts, no current flow. ( The light will be off with 120 volts at the input and output).
Now we get to the neutral wire where we added millions of ohms of resistance with just a 1/4 in gap. No voltage from the 120 panel has been used so far, leaving all 120 at the neutral tip and the light not shining but having 120 on it's terminals.
This is "The Hot Neutral". A white wire carrying 120 volts to ground just like it's supplying hot.
I hope that helps. I really needed some charts and graphs to explain better.
@@keithharrington4595 don’t think I’m misconcepting anything. Funny thing about electric there’s many ways to skin the cat for sure. Keeping up with every code in the state then the towns is crazy fir sure. Although 3 ways may be correct it almost boils down to the electricians preferred way of doing things I guess. One thing fir sure. If whatever you’ve wired up works then you’ve probably done it right excluding wrong size wire circuits and outlets
This is not correct. Neutrals for different circuits should not be connected together. If a neutral on one circuit should break somewhere instead of shutting off the load it will continue to operate and can overload another neutral with current from essentially two breakers on one neutral.
Neutrals for the same circuit in a junction box must all be connected together.
The Equipment Grounding Conductors, bare or green wires, from all wire runs in a junction box must all be connected together
And it is accepted to splice through a receptacle as long as the allowed number of conductors under a single screw is not exceeded, i.e. one.
@@duncancomputer I’ll look it up but this is the way I understood to run two circuits in one box all neutrals and all grounds get wired nutted together. But I hear what you are saying about the separate neutrals. On a personal level unless there’s a good reason why I think all circuits should be separate anyway. Obviously the grounds in a metal box will connect together anyway. But again I’m a big fan of just keeping it easy and simple but the voltage drop I definitely see and sticking to my guns on the pigtail thing I talked about
I just cant watch amateur electricians, it hurts to bad.
Always hire a qualified electrician bro smdh
Yes I know that’s what I said. 😂
As long as it is done by code and you understand what you are doing and the dangers anyone can do it.
Yeah, that's silly. The key is to hire an electrician when you're in over your head, or have them inspect the work you've done. The knowledge work is often a small percentage of the overall effort. Hiring an electrician for the knowledge work is a good idea, but an educated homeowner can handle a lot of the other stuff.
@@iamamish I have wired up several breaker boxes over the years and have had no issues. One on my in-laws house and one on my old house changing the box from the old fuse type. These both had to be inspected before the power could be turned back on. The inspector passed everything with no issues. This was done by a block mason not an electrician. Just goes to show if you do the research you can do anything on your own.
@@michaelhembree1783 completely agree, I think the notion that you have to hire an electrician for any electrical work is silly.
Wiring a house is simply not a sophisticated task. It is time consuming and monotonous, but it isn't hard. Most homeowners can learn enough to confidently tackle simple wiring tasks.
Everyone has a different point where they no longer feel comfortable addressing an issue. For me, that point occurs when dealing with the breaker box. For others, like you, you're find managing that yourself.
Looks good!