Thank you. Before I found this video, the noise was driving me nuts. I was only able to reproduce the noise by driving at random times so it was impossible to know where it was coming from. I spent the $8 bucks and it hasn't grinded since. Thank you.
That thing has been driving me nuts for 2 weeks. I couldn't even get it into the dealership and all it took was a check valve. That's awesome I appreciate the help
I had that exact same problem on my 2015. I changed my brakes several times, I changed the hubs, I took it to a mechanic and even they could not figure it out. In the end, I bought a new truck it was driving me crazy. Funny how you figured it all out after all of these years. LOL
Thanks for video, have a 2018 in my fleet that just started to make that noise. Able to confirm the issue was the check valve. Raise a glass to you sir.
Great video. My 2007 had a loss of vacuum also. It was a cracked vacuum reservoir(behind battery against the fender passenger side, used plastic epoxy to fix) and a loose iwe hose connection middle front behind the lower cross member. It's right about where the oil filter dumps oil when removed for oil change to drench wires and the iwe hose connection. I bought the whole hose assembly and put it in. my solenoid was also destroyed where the water drips on it when it rains.
I have a 2010 f150 and I’ve changed the whole vacuum line and replaced the hub from the same side the gray ding sound is coming from. I’ve even change the IWE check valve assembly and the solenoid. I’ve done all of that and I still hear the grinding sound. Yes I’ve check under the truck for a heat shield to see if I had one falling off but I don’t
You sir are a genius. I thought no way, NO WAY an $8 part is gonna fix this issue. I was right. The part is now $14, and yes, it completely fixed the problem. Thank you!!
My 2015 started making that noise especially if I had cruise locked on and started up an slow incline. It would quit by kicking off the cruise or stepping on the gas. I couldn't associate it with speed, engine rpm or anything obvious except it reminded me of old cars that had vacuum operated windshield wipers that would stop going on a hill where the engine starting bogging and needed a downshift. As soon as I saw this, it made sense. I bought and replaced the line that has the check valve in it and in a minute had it fixed. It's never done it again since.
@@ronpargettrealestate it did. Right away. My local Ford dealership had the part available so I limped the truck over, bought the part, installed in their lot, and then the problem was immediately resolved.
Had The same problem With my 2018 F150 SuperCrew With the 3.5 EcoBoost When accelerating On cold mornings Took it to the dealer The check valve was the issue Covered on a TSB Also had it in for the cam phaser rattle TSB 20 - 2315 Took care of both my problems
2017 3.5L here and mines had the cam phaser done too and now I got the grinding noise going on… 🤦🏽♂️ glad it’s just a vacuum line and not a blown turbo or something haha
I had my 2018 F-150 seen at the dealership 3 times for this exact grinding noise and they had no clue what it was. They finally guessed rightly that it was a vacuum loss issue, but they checked the vacuum at the IWE Hubs and not the check valve. Said it was all within spec and wouldn’t work on it. Also, they seemed to have zero clue about this TSB. Appreciate the info! Just hoping my IWE gears aren’t totally damaged now.
Sorry that happened to you. Just imagine how many thousands of people are going through the same thing! You were one of the lucky ones that figured it out.
Thank you noise has been driving me nuts for a week you're vid was the first thing I found and fixed the issue the item says it does not fit for 2018 f150 but it worked perfectly.
I had a vacuum leak to the Iwe Hubs. The plastic/polymer line run a little close to the exhaust manifold making it brittle causing a vacuum leak. Neighbor offered to look at it for me. When I got home he replaced both lines with what he call European metal braided break line. He had a roll of it left over in same diameter. Flared the metal ends utilized the existing mounts it looked factory. Zero issues in 5 years. Running the hubs off of the break booster vacuum is old tech. Ford hubs should be electric nowadays. Loss of vacuum engages the hubs. My symptoms were a slight hum in the left front that finally went full grinding. Had to put in 4H to fully engage the hubs to stop the grinding. Drove in 4H just enough to square the truck up so the tow truck could get it home.
The IWE can fail without you even knowing it. The IWE only makes noise if there is partial engagement. My truck started making noise occasionally, so I tested the IWE. The left was fully locked at all times, regardless of vacuum, and the right tested ok. I replaced the left, but the noise persisted. I replaced the right, and the noise went away. It's trivial to replace the check valve and the solenoid, and both those parts are cheap. If that doesn't fix it, replace both IWE assemblies. They are about $90 each and it's pretty easy to change them out yourself. If you ignore the grinding and drive like that, you might have to replace your hub bearing assembly as well, and that can get expensive.
This is an outstanding video! I think this is what is happening to my truck right now. Hope it’s a cheap fix like this haha. I even took it to the mechanic and they said iwe vacuum was working perfectly, but I don’t think they tested it as they drove it like you show. Thanks again!
@@Georgiapeach13 not any new noises when I turn. This was two months ago. I ended up ordering the iwe valve that was suggested in this video, of course it cost a lot more now, but that instantly resolved the issue. I was so happy that’s all was going on.
@@ronpargettrealestate it was the valve. All I had to do was cap that valve and it instantly went away. It was very frustrating and then a very simple and quick fix.
I think this could be a problem on any F150 4x4 using the internal 4x4 switch alone . this is where a vacuum driven actuator replaces the traditional external lockling hubs found on older model or heavier 4x4's. I purchased a 2008 F150 4x4. I got it safetied on the road just a year ago. . I am now fixing this very same problem ! After watching your video I learned what to check for, I know the solenoid works. I feel no vacuum in the vacuum lines found connected to both actuator hubs when turning the switch found in the cab to 4x4 high; I feel vacuum at the ends of both hub actuators when in switching back to 2 wheel drive. I think vacuum feels significantly weaker on the end of the vacuum line that connects to the passenger side actuator hub assembly..The side making the weird off on grinding noises. This is the same side I recently replaced my actuator, and wheel bearing . I thought I caught a stone needed brakes got a surprise.. I didn't know where to start after the same noise came back. Your input is great at this time. Thanks !
You may have a vacuum leak on the passenger side line. I would look at the fitting first, but you could also try replacing the lines. I'm not sure about the 2008 model, but on my truck you can order the line that goes from the main tee to the passenger side IWE. Good luck!
My 2011 f-150 did the same thing but at 900 RPM I replaced both check valve and solenoid, took a few months to go completely away but eventually it did 👍
Actually I tried a cheap check valve from a auto store and it made it worse, then went to a Ford dealership and bought a replacement part and it worked then. It was about $25.
I think this is my issue as well. 2018 Lariat 4x4 F150 V6 3.5L 65K miles: when accelerating (especially at higher speeds) I hear a rattle cumming from underneath the truck. It sounds like I am dragging empty coke cans under my truck. The sound continues and seems to intensify until I hear a thump sound. Sometimes the Thump sound is more of a hard knock or bump. I do not hear the sound again until I let off the gas and then accelerate again. At any time If I let off he gas, it stops immediately. This is most likely to occur when I drive uphill. I live in East Tennessee so there are a lot of hills.
That's a very good description of the sound I heard. My phone didn't capture it very well, but you can definitely notice it with your ears! I didn't hear any thump sounds with mine that I remember. It just stops immediately when I let off the gas.
I have the same issue on my 18 . I don’t hear the noise very often but when I do is usually when I first start the vehicle and it goes for like 3-8 seconds
Mine has been doing it as well I’ve got a 2017 f150 With 91k miles it first done when I was around 80k very rarely now it’s doing it all the time atm driving me nuts I gotta get this part hopefully I haven’t done a lot damage
I had the exact problem you're talking about I went over to O'Reilly Auto Parts I got the part put it on in about 1 minute and it solved the problem thank you this is one of the best videos I've ever seen
@@unseen805 didnt he say it was the check valve? Go from there I would say. If it is t the "right name" show them the video of the part or the part shown in the video.
Having same issue with my 2018 expedition max. It’s a grinding/rattling noise as I accelerate from a downshift. Was that the issue you were having with yours?
Took my truck to World Ford Pensacola to have the warranty work done: took them _A MONTH_ to replace that little valve. No rental car, no nothing. A month to install that little valve.
I like this idea, but I hadn't really thought about it. Now that I know what's happening when I hear the noise just replace the valve and keep a spare in the truck. 120k miles on the truck now and I think I have replaced the valve 2 or 3 times so far.
I promised my self I would come back here once I figured out what that problem is and now here, I am. On the start up it makes the noise, so basically it has something to do with starting your truck . If your truck is doing this then it's going to get worse. Let me cut to the chase nine times out of ten is your Starter. Don't let know one tell you the eco boost is a bad engine, because my original starter had 150,000 something miles on it. Start with your starter because the grinding could be that your starter is getting old and it's having issues spinning your fly wheel. I realized then that it had to have been the starter. So I replaced my starter and the sound is gone. Also when buying a used truck make sure to double check everything, because there are allot of mechanics that work for these Lots who hate seeing you get something they can't get or just don't want seeing others with anything.That will be another story later. Take care , I hope this helps you.
Thanks for the comment. Indeed, if the truck is sitting there you will not hear a grinding noise coming from the IWEs. They only grind when the vehicle is in motion. Nice work troubleshooting your bad starter issue.
At min marker 2:43 just under your right hand pinky in the center of the frame there is a black hose line with a white cap on it, Possibly some sort of vent/valve. Do you by chance know what this part is called and it’s purpose? I have it on my 09 King Ranch although mine is anchored higher up towards the master cylinder/booster. Thanks so much for the informative video.
Sorry, JP I don't know what that is. I'm a controls Engineer so any knowledge I have about this truck was just from searching the web and my own experience trying to fix the problem.
my 2018 4x4 has a roaring or grind noise when turning right of even veering right. Changed the left side hub/bearing, no help, changed the vacuum check valve like you did, no help. Any suggestion? thanks
Checked my vacuum with a gauge and would drop on a slow incline under accl. Similar to video. So I changed the check valve and it still does so but only when it lugs uphill or refuses to downshift. 20inhg at idle, but steadily drops to 5 as you lug uphill. Give it a lot of gas and it’s back to 20 or 15 at lowest. Any thoughts? Leak, solenoid? Other ?
My 2017 keeps doing this and the check valve fixes it for like 2 weeks and then it does it again. Dealership always says they cant replicate the noise. They got it to do it the first time which is how it got fixed but now they wont fix it
Thanks for doing the troubleshooting, I have a 2018 that started doing this intermittently after only about 10k miles. It didn't do it very much or often, but at just before 30k it has started to get worse. I will see if warranty will cover this even though it's a cheap fix. If not I will try to shame them into giving me the part and I will replace it myself. I guess they used a better check valve or system after 2018 as the document only lists up to 2018 even though published in 2020.
I just bought the $22 part and replaced it. The grinding sound was there on the way to the dealer. I did switch in and out of 4 wheel drive and the sound went away when in 4 wheel high, came back in 2 wheel drive and did not show up after I replaced the check valve tube assembly Part #: 3A788 for my 2018 F150 4x4.
I’m having the same issue. I’m hearing grinding and once I switch it to 4x4 it stops. I just got new breaks and rotors and a actuator put in and it’s still doing it. Any suggestions?
Hey Jared, my 2011 started acting up a month ago, I tracked it down to the vacuum solenoid intermittently de energizing, and causing the iwe's to partially engage. I tried just changing the check valve, but it was the solenoid. Autozone has them, Ford had them back ordered with no date on getting them. The part at autozone is lifetime guaranteed for 30 bux.
I would guess incompetence rather than any planned obsolescence. Maybe the thinking was that this would warn you that the 4x4 system wasn't working before you got off-road and the hubs refused to lock. I'm sure a better solution is possible, but I'm no automotive engineer. I never had this problem on any other 4x4 vehicle I've owned. My tractor just has a lever on the transaxle that lets me switch to 4x4. The hubs are always locked :-) Too bad they can't just do that! I'm sure it would reduce gas mileage, like the old center-axle-disconnect on the Dodge trucks (that doesn't fail).
I think this might be my problem. On the way to work this morning and around 80 miles an hour I got an occasional squealing/rattling/grinding noise that lasted until I let off the throttle. I’m about four months from my warranty and I wonder if this is going to be another fix that is not covered under my powertrain warranty but “just a wear and tear apart that’s part of the engine”. Do you by chance have a video of the sound, I should’ve taken one this morning.
I think this may be my issue, but when I get the rattle noise I lose power if I try to accelerate through it. Does anyone else lose power and or gas mileage when they hear the noise and try to accelerate through it? Thx....Driving me nuts!
Just so you know, I tried checking the valve by blowing through it on both sides. It worked as expected but when I replaced it the noise went away. I think a very small leak in the valve is how this issue starts. It's cheap enough to just replace it anyway, unless you have a test procedure and equipment.
My truck has been making this noise for months. Have taken it to a Ford dealership and two other mechanics and notta.....they can't find anything wrong. When I plug in the part# on your package in the video, it says it's a check valve for the A/C control. Do they use this part in multiple locations I guess? Thanks for the video!
I just had this part fail about 3 weeks ago while on a road trip. I pulled into NAPA and they had a similar part that worked. One of the nipples was just a little bit small, so I put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it and shrunk it with a lighter. It's still working fine, but I need to source a better replacement. I suggest doing whatever you have to do immediately to prevent damage to the IWEs, then look for a better solution. I don't remember if Ford sells just the check valve or they want you to buy the entire assembly.
2 questions 1) is this a recall item? 2) Where did you get that actual part? I’ve got the exact same issue and the dealership is saying it’ll be around $400 to fix.
No idea on the recall. I got a similar part at a couple of different places. It's a generic part but the one in the video was purchased at oreilly auto parts. They can look it up for you. I've replaced this thing 3 times now. Don't pay the dealer to fix it. It's easy.
I am having same sound, machenic shop told me, back axles than came back and said transmission. I went back online and found your video. I am going to try this.
It's really hard to tell where the sound is coming from. I thought I could be the trans as well when I first heard it. Doing the tests in the vid should confirm it.
On my 2016 F150 Lariat FX4 I replaced the check valve part and my original clicking sound went away. This was because my check valve was failing and trying to allow the hubs to engage. This happened repeatedly over 250 miles of highway driving, about three or four times total. Just last weekend I replaced the front hubs because had this slight groaning sound when I turn left or turn right to the tune of about 450 bucks in parts. I’m OK with that because they looked a little worn for all of the wear and tear I put them through hauling a trailer and four wheeling. On a sidenote, I replaced the rotors and brakes while I was in there to the Bosch quiet ride. It seemed to fix it initially but now I still hear the groaning when I turn left or right. Any ideas? PS, I tried to pull a vacuum before I removed the original hub and it did not hold. I’m wondering if maybe I didn’t test that correctly but I’ve pulled it off, put my thumb over the vacuum hose tool that I was using, and the vacuum held.
You can also have a vacuum leak anywhere in the lines between the reservoir and the IWEs. If it's slow then you would only notice it every once in a while. I remember seeing a test procedure from Ford for this somewhere online, but I don't have a link handy.
How long can I drive it like this? Will I break down on my way into the mechanic? Sorry, not mechanically inclined and I drove white-knuckled all the way home from work.
I have same problem and i tested the check valve and it seemed to be working. I just replaced the check valve and hose back to solenoid. took it out for a short test ride and no noise but it was very intermittent so time will tell. thank you for your video!
Mind describing the noise…i’m having a “humming/wa” noise I began hearing similar to what loud off road tires sound like but more of a subtle droning noise that becomes more pronounced as I accelerate. Thank you Trying to differentiate between brake rotors, iwes and or hub assembly. Lord I hope it’s not transmission related. Thanks
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt its a low grinding noise sort of like a "grrrr". imagine the sound of the front hubs trying to engage at high speed but not able to as they are not synchronized.
@@exactengineeringllc5254 Having my tires rotated this Thursday so I’ll start there to rule out tire cupping, hubs and sticking caliper…I do however feel it wouldn’t hurt to install new check vales. I have an 09 King Ranch…150k had to replace the front passenger hub assembly not long after warranty was over…I don’t recall if the dealership stating why it failed but i’m sure new valves would at least give me peace of mind or preventive. At any rate, thanks again for taking the time to share the feedback.
JP the noise/droning you hear is probably the cv shaft not fully disengaging and sounds kinda like a wheel bearing... Actuator is probably sticking/ not getting vacuum to disengage..
This issue just happened to my 2018 F150 (with 25,000 miles). The problem surfaced just after a tire rotation. Luckily, my dealership said it was covered under the powertrain warranty.
Try to reproduce it like I did in the video. When you get on the gas you can hear it. If you let your foot completely off the pedal it immediately stops. If this doesn't work for you, you've got another problem.
From reading the forums lots of people have been duped into new wheel bearings, complete IWE assemblies, etc. from incompetent mechanics (usually as a warranty repair) that never addressed the root cause. Sad :-(
Sorry to hear about your problem Zachary. I would recommend jacking up the truck and checking for anything loose under there. There is a heat shield with a spot weld on the exhaust that comes loose some times.
@@justinswick5274 Do you by chance know what the issue would be for a 2WD with the same grinding sound when releasing the gas pedal? Sorry I'm just out of ideas and Ford won't help, been on YT for awhile and this is the only real fix I've seen but it's only for 4x4
@@Nytronic Sorry dude, I'm no mechanic. I just went down the rabbit hole on this particular problem. Maybe take your truck to an independent shop and have them check out the suspension, wheel bearings, spindles? They should find anything that's obviously messed up.
@@Nytronic On my 4x4 the grinding goes away when you release the gas pedal. My friend has a 2018 F150 STX 4x2 that has the 10 speed trans that had to be replaced. His had a whining sound when starting/idling and it would idle high. It also had shifting issues and seemed to lack power. Hopefully yours is still covered under warranty.
@@Nytronic Its not that Ford won't help, its you dealer that won't help. Try a different dealership. Some are better than others. You can also take it to Lincoln. But before you do that, there's a couple of things you can try yourself. First, get a long screw driver and look through the wheels so you can see the brake rotor. Behind the rotor you'll see a shield. They bend very easily. Take the screw driver and push on the shield and make sure no part of it touched the rotor. I would also look under the truck. Some F150's have a big metal skid plate under the motor. Make sure its bolted down properly and not rattling. Both of these problems can sound very similar to the IWE noise.
I would guess your iwe is binding. In 4x4 the spring forces them to engage. I would jack up the front and try to spin one wheel. If it doesnt spin you are locked in. Check each one individually. Very unlikely both sides are messed up
@@justinswick5274 Well, I had both sides replaced by a Ford dealership who told me that the vacuums were indeed leaking. But the truck is STILL making the noise. Now they are saying after the $650 IWE repair that they believe it is the transfer case need replaced. That's a $2,000 parts/labor or they may be able to get one from a junkyard for about $800 parts/labor...
@@ccmarshall1094 Not sure, but I do know that about 99% of people suck at troubleshooting. I would have another mechanic look at it before dumping that kind of money into such a simple system. If you are in 4x4 and still hearing the noise then the IWEs aren't locked in. A simple way to get the hubs to lock is to unplug the vacuum lines at the top of your firewall where the valve is. The springs will engage the IWEs when there is no vacuum. You can drive around like that with the truck in 2wd and the hubs locked in without damage, but it will cost you gas mileage and I wouldn't drive like that for more than a few miles personally. Try turning the knob from 2wd to 4wd and see if it makes any difference now that you have isolated the IWE's.
@@gabrielarcossalas2197 The Ford dealership replaced the transfer case and the noise was still there. They didn't charge me. But said after further investigation, they assume it's in the transmission, possibly the torque convertor. I am taking it in Monday to a transmission place who is going to diagnose/look in to that. I'll let you know what I find!!
My truck is a 2016, but the IWEs have been used by ford since 2004. The systems have changed a throughout the years, but the basic design is very similar in terms of the components used and their function in the system.
I have this problem and Iv changed the two parts but it continues to make the noise. I have a 2013 f150 eco boost if anyone can help. Thank you in advance
Grant, the vacuum lines to the IWE's are prone to failure as well, as it routes near the exhaust on the passenger side and the lines crack. I just picked them up at the Dealer today, part # BL32-7A785-A for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost, should be same for your 2013, $47.50 + tax.
I had this sound it came and went. I changed the check valve and nothing. I changed the wheel bearings and used the vacuum pump when installing the wheel bearings. The 4x4 was not completely disengaged because the wheel hubs were not seated properly. The sound has gone away for good. 30k miles later still no noise
Watch the latter-half of the video where I get out the vacuum gauge. You should be able to force it to happen by pushing the relief valve on the vacuum gage or disconnecting the gage while the truck is driving.
I have a similar problem on my 2019 4x4 once I get to the end of 3 and let off accelerator not completely into 4th the noise goes click click click really fast. Is this the same problem ? Also I have video of the noise
That's the symptom if you have a vacuum leak. Replace the check valve and see if it goes away. Otherwise, you have a leak somewhere else in the system.
Thank you. Before I found this video, the noise was driving me nuts. I was only able to reproduce the noise by driving at random times so it was impossible to know where it was coming from. I spent the $8 bucks and it hasn't grinded since. Thank you.
Would have been nice to hear the grinding noise you were referring to in the first place.
You could hear it a little while he was driving and had the gauge on his lap. The noise goes away when i shift mine to 4H
It sounds like a rock is stuck in your brakes
That thing has been driving me nuts for 2 weeks. I couldn't even get it into the dealership and all it took was a check valve. That's awesome I appreciate the help
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
I had that exact same problem on my 2015. I changed my brakes several times, I changed the hubs, I took it to a mechanic and even they could not figure it out. In the end, I bought a new truck it was driving me crazy. Funny how you figured it all out after all of these years. LOL
Thanks for video, have a 2018 in my fleet that just started to make that noise. Able to confirm the issue was the check valve. Raise a glass to you sir.
Great video. My 2007 had a loss of vacuum also. It was a cracked vacuum reservoir(behind battery against the fender passenger side, used plastic epoxy to fix) and a loose iwe hose connection middle front behind the lower cross member. It's right about where the oil filter dumps oil when removed for oil change to drench wires and the iwe hose connection. I bought the whole hose assembly and put it in. my solenoid was also destroyed where the water drips on it when it rains.
I have a 2010 f150 and I’ve changed the whole vacuum line and replaced the hub from the same side the gray ding sound is coming from. I’ve even change the IWE check valve assembly and the solenoid. I’ve done all of that and I still hear the grinding sound. Yes I’ve check under the truck for a heat shield to see if I had one falling off but I don’t
You sir are a genius. I thought no way, NO WAY an $8 part is gonna fix this issue. I was right. The part is now $14, and yes, it completely fixed the problem. Thank you!!
were you having this problem at low speeds? Mine is making a grinding type noise when I'm going around 1-5 mph
@@raybrown7396 yes - it only occured at slower speeds. as soon as I would pull over it would stop.
If you would accelerate while in park would it make the noise?
@@HarperLawnCareKC this problem only happened when I was moving at around 1-5 mph.
@@raybrown7396 same here i need to bring my truck to the dealer
My 2015 started making that noise especially if I had cruise locked on and started up an slow incline. It would quit by kicking off the cruise or stepping on the gas. I couldn't associate it with speed, engine rpm or anything obvious except it reminded me of old cars that had vacuum operated windshield wipers that would stop going on a hill where the engine starting bogging and needed a downshift. As soon as I saw this, it made sense. I bought and replaced the line that has the check valve in it and in a minute had it fixed. It's never done it again since.
Nice job Greg! It took me an embarrassing amount of time to figure out it was a vacuum issue, hence the motivation for sharing.
This video was a lifesaver! Okay, maybe you didn't save my life but you saved me a ton of time and money. Thank you.
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
@@ronpargettrealestate it did. Right away. My local Ford dealership had the part available so I limped the truck over, bought the part, installed in their lot, and then the problem was immediately resolved.
@@ronpargettrealestateI’m glad somebody answered you I’m having same issue
Had The same problem With my 2018 F150 SuperCrew With the 3.5 EcoBoost When accelerating On cold mornings Took it to the dealer The check valve was the issue Covered on a TSB Also had it in for the cam phaser rattle TSB 20 - 2315 Took care of both my problems
2017 3.5L here and mines had the cam phaser done too and now I got the grinding noise going on… 🤦🏽♂️ glad it’s just a vacuum line and not a blown turbo or something haha
@@samscola585my cam phaser they just reprogrammed the ECM? Noise has never went away.
Does this noise in video go away with putting in 4x4?
Thank you so much, sir. You have saved me a ton of money and a lot of headache.
May the Lord bless you abundantly
I had my 2018 F-150 seen at the dealership 3 times for this exact grinding noise and they had no clue what it was. They finally guessed rightly that it was a vacuum loss issue, but they checked the vacuum at the IWE Hubs and not the check valve. Said it was all within spec and wouldn’t work on it. Also, they seemed to have zero clue about this TSB. Appreciate the info! Just hoping my IWE gears aren’t totally damaged now.
Sorry that happened to you. Just imagine how many thousands of people are going through the same thing! You were one of the lucky ones that figured it out.
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
Thank you noise has been driving me nuts for a week you're vid was the first thing I found and fixed the issue the item says it does not fit for 2018 f150 but it worked perfectly.
I had a vacuum leak to the Iwe Hubs. The plastic/polymer line run a little close to the exhaust manifold making it brittle causing a vacuum leak. Neighbor offered to look at it for me. When I got home he replaced both lines with what he call European metal braided break line. He had a roll of it left over in same diameter. Flared the metal ends utilized the existing mounts it looked factory. Zero issues in 5 years. Running the hubs off of the break booster vacuum is old tech. Ford hubs should be electric nowadays. Loss of vacuum engages the hubs. My symptoms were a slight hum in the left front that finally went full grinding. Had to put in 4H to fully engage the hubs to stop the grinding. Drove in 4H just enough to square the truck up so the tow truck could get it home.
The IWE can fail without you even knowing it. The IWE only makes noise if there is partial engagement. My truck started making noise occasionally, so I tested the IWE. The left was fully locked at all times, regardless of vacuum, and the right tested ok. I replaced the left, but the noise persisted. I replaced the right, and the noise went away. It's trivial to replace the check valve and the solenoid, and both those parts are cheap. If that doesn't fix it, replace both IWE assemblies. They are about $90 each and it's pretty easy to change them out yourself. If you ignore the grinding and drive like that, you might have to replace your hub bearing assembly as well, and that can get expensive.
This is an outstanding video! I think this is what is happening to my truck right now. Hope it’s a cheap fix like this haha. I even took it to the mechanic and they said iwe vacuum was working perfectly, but I don’t think they tested it as they drove it like you show. Thanks again!
Any noises when turning ?
@@Georgiapeach13 not any new noises when I turn. This was two months ago. I ended up ordering the iwe valve that was suggested in this video, of course it cost a lot more now, but that instantly resolved the issue. I was so happy that’s all was going on.
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
@@ronpargettrealestate it was the valve. All I had to do was cap that valve and it instantly went away. It was very frustrating and then a very simple and quick fix.
I think this could be a problem on any F150 4x4 using the internal 4x4 switch alone . this is where a vacuum driven actuator replaces the traditional external lockling hubs found on older model or heavier 4x4's.
I purchased a 2008 F150 4x4. I got it safetied on the road just a year ago. . I am now fixing this very same problem !
After watching your video I learned what to check for, I know the solenoid works. I feel no vacuum in the vacuum lines found connected to both actuator hubs when turning the switch found in the cab to 4x4 high; I feel vacuum at the ends of both hub actuators when in switching back to 2 wheel drive.
I think vacuum feels significantly weaker on the end of the vacuum line that connects to the passenger side actuator hub assembly..The side making the weird off on grinding noises.
This is the same side I recently replaced my actuator, and wheel bearing . I thought I caught a stone needed brakes got a surprise.. I didn't know where to start after the same noise came back.
Your input is great at this time. Thanks !
You may have a vacuum leak on the passenger side line. I would look at the fitting first, but you could also try replacing the lines. I'm not sure about the 2008 model, but on my truck you can order the line that goes from the main tee to the passenger side IWE.
Good luck!
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
Came in clutch man. Much appreciated
Thanks for sharing, I have a chattering noise when I put it in 4-wheel drive. Thanks again great video that I am saving. 👍
I know exactly what you are talking about. This describes my issue perfectly. Going to order the part today! Thank you
Where did you get the airline push connect fittings?
Search Amazon for Push-to-connect air fittings. I borrowed these from work.
Hey, I don’t know if you’re still on F150. They came up with a very cheap solution plastic cap to go on the backside of a valve.
Thanks so much for the video... solved my problem... you saved me a bunch of time and money!
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
My 2011 f-150 did the same thing but at 900 RPM I replaced both check valve and solenoid, took a few months to go completely away but eventually it did 👍
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
Thank you! My 2017 does this occasionally and I feared the worst. For $8 I'm just going to change it and see what happens. Much appreciated.
Did it work?
@@skylarbytendorp Yes.
Actually I tried a cheap check valve from a auto store and it made it worse, then went to a Ford dealership and bought a replacement part and it worked then. It was about $25.
@@TRprepper it is just called a "check valve" and they will know what that is ar the parts store?
I think this is my issue as well. 2018 Lariat 4x4 F150 V6 3.5L 65K miles: when accelerating (especially at higher speeds) I hear a rattle cumming from underneath the truck. It sounds like I am dragging empty coke cans under my truck. The sound continues and seems to intensify until I hear a thump sound. Sometimes the Thump sound is more of a hard knock or bump. I do not hear the sound again until I let off the gas and then accelerate again. At any time If I let off he gas, it stops immediately. This is most likely to occur when I drive uphill. I live in East Tennessee so there are a lot of hills.
That's a very good description of the sound I heard. My phone didn't capture it very well, but you can definitely notice it with your ears! I didn't hear any thump sounds with mine that I remember. It just stops immediately when I let off the gas.
I have the same issue on my 18 . I don’t hear the noise very often but when I do is usually when I first start the vehicle and it goes for like 3-8 seconds
Nemo yours sounds more like cam phasers!
Mine has been doing it as well I’ve got a 2017 f150 With 91k miles it first done when I was around 80k very rarely now it’s doing it all the time atm driving me nuts I gotta get this part hopefully I haven’t done a lot damage
Figured out a great fix after dealing with this for years, never buy a ford again.
Wouldn't want you to be found on road dead 😂
mines doing a very lite buzzing sound, already replaced solenoid and check valve
I had the exact problem you're talking about I went over to O'Reilly Auto Parts I got the part put it on in about 1 minute and it solved the problem thank you this is one of the best videos I've ever seen
Can you tell me the part name
@@unseen805 didnt he say it was the check valve? Go from there I would say. If it is t the "right name" show them the video of the part or the part shown in the video.
Can I Venmo $20. You just saved me a bunch of headache
Fantastic video and this fixed my 2018 Expedition Max perfectly. Thanks so much!
Having same issue with my 2018 expedition max. It’s a grinding/rattling noise as I accelerate from a downshift. Was that the issue you were having with yours?
Same issue and the dealership rebuilt the transmission and still having the grinding noise
Genius. Worked perfectly on my 2016 FC4 Ecoboost. Thank you!
Will the check valve linked in the description fit on a 2013 as well? Looks the same
Took my truck to World Ford Pensacola to have the warranty work done: took them _A MONTH_ to replace that little valve. No rental car, no nothing. A month to install that little valve.
just started on my 2004 expedition, it sounded horrible while doing 60 mph, I thought it was a major failure in the drive-train
fyi an easy way to troubleshoot this without a gauage or anything is to just drive in 4wd and if the sound isn't made, it's the check valve.
I like this idea, but I hadn't really thought about it. Now that I know what's happening when I hear the noise just replace the valve and keep a spare in the truck. 120k miles on the truck now and I think I have replaced the valve 2 or 3 times so far.
I promised my self I would come back here once I figured out what that problem is and now here, I am. On the start up it makes the noise, so basically it has something to do with starting your truck . If your truck is doing this then it's going to get worse. Let me cut to the chase nine times out of ten is your Starter. Don't let know one tell you the eco boost is a bad engine, because my original starter had 150,000 something miles on it. Start with your starter because the grinding could be that your starter is getting old and it's having issues spinning your fly wheel. I realized then that it had to have been the starter. So I replaced my starter and the sound is gone. Also when buying a used truck make sure to double check everything, because there are allot of mechanics that work for these Lots who hate seeing you get something they can't get or just don't want seeing others with anything.That will be another story later. Take care , I hope this helps you.
Thanks for the comment. Indeed, if the truck is sitting there you will not hear a grinding noise coming from the IWEs. They only grind when the vehicle is in motion. Nice work troubleshooting your bad starter issue.
At min marker 2:43 just under your right hand pinky in the center of the frame there is a black hose line with a white cap on it, Possibly some sort of vent/valve. Do you by chance know what this part is called and it’s purpose? I have it on my 09 King Ranch although mine is anchored higher up towards the master cylinder/booster. Thanks so much for the informative video.
Sorry, JP I don't know what that is. I'm a controls Engineer so any knowledge I have about this truck was just from searching the web and my own experience trying to fix the problem.
@@justinswick5274 lol thank you for replying. I plan to stop by the dealership this week to have abs bled via their ids…I’ll ask while i’m there.
Dude thanks my wife was pics about the noise and wanted to return it to ford but now it's fixed
my 2018 4x4 has a roaring or grind noise when turning right of even veering right. Changed the left side hub/bearing, no help, changed the vacuum check valve like you did, no help. Any suggestion? thanks
Checked my vacuum with a gauge and would drop on a slow incline under accl. Similar to video. So I changed the check valve and it still does so but only when it lugs uphill or refuses to downshift. 20inhg at idle, but steadily drops to 5 as you lug uphill. Give it a lot of gas and it’s back to 20 or 15 at lowest. Any thoughts? Leak, solenoid? Other ?
My 2017 keeps doing this and the check valve fixes it for like 2 weeks and then it does it again. Dealership always says they cant replicate the noise. They got it to do it the first time which is how it got fixed but now they wont fix it
17' Expedition. Noise only in 2 wheel drive and turning. Thoughts?
Thanks for doing the troubleshooting, I have a 2018 that started doing this intermittently after only about 10k miles. It didn't do it very much or often, but at just before 30k it has started to get worse. I will see if warranty will cover this even though it's a cheap fix. If not I will try to shame them into giving me the part and I will replace it myself. I guess they used a better check valve or system after 2018 as the document only lists up to 2018 even though published in 2020.
I just bought the $22 part and replaced it. The grinding sound was there on the way to the dealer. I did switch in and out of 4 wheel drive and the sound went away when in 4 wheel high, came back in 2 wheel drive and did not show up after I replaced the check valve tube assembly Part #: 3A788 for my 2018 F150 4x4.
@@BBDragon66 Nice! I bought mine from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. It was a generic brand which is why it was so cheap I guess.
Whets is causing grinding noise when turning right or left from a dead stop and then stops when going straight
Will this affect the 2wd f-150? I have this problem with I press the breaks Even after a new set
I’m having the same issue. I’m hearing grinding and once I switch it to 4x4 it stops. I just got new breaks and rotors and a actuator put in and it’s still doing it. Any suggestions?
Hey Jared, my 2011 started acting up a month ago, I tracked it down to the vacuum solenoid intermittently de energizing, and causing the iwe's to partially engage. I tried just changing the check valve, but it was the solenoid. Autozone has them, Ford had them back ordered with no date on getting them. The part at autozone is lifetime guaranteed for 30 bux.
Seriously, a locking hub that requires vacuum to stop from destroying itself, and they say planned obsolescence is dead.
I would guess incompetence rather than any planned obsolescence. Maybe the thinking was that this would warn you that the 4x4 system wasn't working before you got off-road and the hubs refused to lock. I'm sure a better solution is possible, but I'm no automotive engineer. I never had this problem on any other 4x4 vehicle I've owned. My tractor just has a lever on the transaxle that lets me switch to 4x4. The hubs are always locked :-) Too bad they can't just do that! I'm sure it would reduce gas mileage, like the old center-axle-disconnect on the Dodge trucks (that doesn't fail).
Thanks for sharing..
Question, I have a 2009 and I think this is the issue but the check valve on my year is not in the same location. Any ideas?
Did you figure it out? 2009 owner here....
@@cmlundgren I think so.. front right of the engine compartment. I checked quick but still need to trace the lines.
Thanks! This is exactly what just happened to me just yesterday!
Saved me a great deal, Thank you so much,,,,
I think this might be my problem. On the way to work this morning and around 80 miles an hour I got an occasional squealing/rattling/grinding noise that lasted until I let off the throttle. I’m about four months from my warranty and I wonder if this is going to be another fix that is not covered under my powertrain warranty but “just a wear and tear apart that’s part of the engine”. Do you by chance have a video of the sound, I should’ve taken one this morning.
If you listen when I'm running the vac gage at 3:43 you may be able to hear it if you turn up your speakers.
I think this may be my issue, but when I get the rattle noise I lose power if I try to accelerate through it. Does anyone else lose power and or gas mileage when they hear the noise and try to accelerate through it? Thx....Driving me nuts!
I have a 2012 f150 harley edition and it sounds like its grinding...changed rotors and brakes but it only does going 20 to 35 any thoughts
I have a noise like this on hard acceleration. I'm going to check that valve. Thanks!!!
Just so you know, I tried checking the valve by blowing through it on both sides. It worked as expected but when I replaced it the noise went away. I think a very small leak in the valve is how this issue starts. It's cheap enough to just replace it anyway, unless you have a test procedure and equipment.
Can I drive with this noise?
My truck has been making this noise for months. Have taken it to a Ford dealership and two other mechanics and notta.....they can't find anything wrong. When I plug in the part# on your package in the video, it says it's a check valve for the A/C control. Do they use this part in multiple locations I guess? Thanks for the video!
I just had this part fail about 3 weeks ago while on a road trip. I pulled into NAPA and they had a similar part that worked. One of the nipples was just a little bit small, so I put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it and shrunk it with a lighter. It's still working fine, but I need to source a better replacement. I suggest doing whatever you have to do immediately to prevent damage to the IWEs, then look for a better solution. I don't remember if Ford sells just the check valve or they want you to buy the entire assembly.
2 questions
1) is this a recall item?
2) Where did you get that actual part? I’ve got the exact same issue and the dealership is saying it’ll be around $400 to fix.
No idea on the recall. I got a similar part at a couple of different places. It's a generic part but the one in the video was purchased at oreilly auto parts. They can look it up for you. I've replaced this thing 3 times now. Don't pay the dealer to fix it. It's easy.
I am having same sound, machenic shop told me, back axles than came back and said transmission. I went back online and found your video. I am going to try this.
It's really hard to tell where the sound is coming from. I thought I could be the trans as well when I first heard it. Doing the tests in the vid should confirm it.
reminds me of the 50's cars with the vacuum wipers running off the vacuum pump on top of the manual fuel pump🙂😂
Excellent video!!
Any updates?
On my 2016 F150 Lariat FX4 I replaced the check valve part and my original clicking sound went away. This was because my check valve was failing and trying to allow the hubs to engage. This happened repeatedly over 250 miles of highway driving, about three or four times total.
Just last weekend I replaced the front hubs because had this slight groaning sound when I turn left or turn right to the tune of about 450 bucks in parts. I’m OK with that because they looked a little worn for all of the wear and tear I put them through hauling a trailer and four wheeling. On a sidenote, I replaced the rotors and brakes while I was in there to the Bosch quiet ride.
It seemed to fix it initially but now I still hear the groaning when I turn left or right.
Any ideas?
PS, I tried to pull a vacuum before I removed the original hub and it did not hold. I’m wondering if maybe I didn’t test that correctly but I’ve pulled it off, put my thumb over the vacuum hose tool that I was using, and the vacuum held.
You can also have a vacuum leak anywhere in the lines between the reservoir and the IWEs. If it's slow then you would only notice it every once in a while. I remember seeing a test procedure from Ford for this somewhere online, but I don't have a link handy.
Is this only on 4x4 trucks?
How long can I drive it like this? Will I break down on my way into the mechanic? Sorry, not mechanically inclined and I drove white-knuckled all the way home from work.
I wouldn't drive it. It's an easy fix you can DIY. Otherwise, wait until it's raining and drive there in four wheel drive.
Take the vacuum lines off and put a tube one line to the other like a loop the drive it if it gos away its the value
I have same problem and i tested the check valve and it seemed to be working. I just replaced the check valve and hose back to solenoid. took it out for a short test ride and no noise but it was very intermittent so time will tell.
thank you for your video!
When i tested the check valve with a vacuum pump it seemed ok, but i replaced it anyway and the problem has been fixed for a couple of months now.
Mind describing the noise…i’m having a “humming/wa” noise I began hearing similar to what loud off road tires sound like but more of a subtle droning noise that becomes more pronounced as I accelerate. Thank you
Trying to differentiate between brake rotors, iwes and or hub assembly. Lord I hope it’s not transmission related. Thanks
@@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt its a low grinding noise sort of like a "grrrr". imagine the sound of the front hubs trying to engage at high speed but not able to as they are not synchronized.
@@exactengineeringllc5254 Having my tires rotated this Thursday so I’ll start there to rule out tire cupping, hubs and sticking caliper…I do however feel it wouldn’t hurt to install new check vales. I have an 09 King Ranch…150k had to replace the front passenger hub assembly not long after warranty was over…I don’t recall if the dealership stating why it failed but i’m sure new valves would at least give me peace of mind or preventive. At any rate, thanks again for taking the time to share the feedback.
JP the noise/droning you hear is probably the cv shaft not fully disengaging and sounds kinda like a wheel bearing... Actuator is probably sticking/ not getting vacuum to disengage..
This issue just happened to my 2018 F150 (with 25,000 miles). The problem surfaced just after a tire rotation. Luckily, my dealership said it was covered under the powertrain warranty.
Before you replaced the check valve, did selecting 4H make the grinding go away?
@@ronpargettrealestate …..yes it did.
I've got this problem. The scraping will stop if I turn the cruise control on and off. Any ideas?
Try to reproduce it like I did in the video. When you get on the gas you can hear it. If you let your foot completely off the pedal it immediately stops. If this doesn't work for you, you've got another problem.
Looking at buying a 2018 used with 73k. When did you notice this (or anyone reading this)?
It can happen at any time. You'll definitely notice it.
I am going to try this before shelling out a fortune for new front wheel bearings.
From reading the forums lots of people have been duped into new wheel bearings, complete IWE assemblies, etc. from incompetent mechanics (usually as a warranty repair) that never addressed the root cause. Sad :-(
@@justinswick5274 o
On my 2015 4x4 it seems like I hear the same noise just here a their UT dose it it is that how yours was
That's how it starts. It will get worse over time if you are experiencing the same thing. I would go and buy the checkvalve now before it gets bad.
i wish i saw your viedo sooner, the check vsalve was mt problem, sure after i ttok the front end apart twice LOL
Im hearing a rattling when im going under 30 and its only sometimes goes away once i get going fast it isnt constant any ideas????
Sorry to hear about your problem Zachary. I would recommend jacking up the truck and checking for anything loose under there. There is a heat shield with a spot weld on the exhaust that comes loose some times.
wheel hub
Exhaust pipe rattle possibly. Saw it in another video
Never told us or showed us what it sounds like ??
When I go into 4h to stop the noise, when I turn I pretty much lose power then the truck will lunge. Can’t stand this 4wd system. So dangerous
I have this sound on a 2018 F150 5.0 as many of other TH-cam videos show the same issue, however mine is 4x2. Will the same fix still apply?
No, this is only for the 4x4 model.
@@justinswick5274 Do you by chance know what the issue would be for a 2WD with the same grinding sound when releasing the gas pedal? Sorry I'm just out of ideas and Ford won't help, been on YT for awhile and this is the only real fix I've seen but it's only for 4x4
@@Nytronic Sorry dude, I'm no mechanic. I just went down the rabbit hole on this particular problem. Maybe take your truck to an independent shop and have them check out the suspension, wheel bearings, spindles? They should find anything that's obviously messed up.
@@Nytronic On my 4x4 the grinding goes away when you release the gas pedal. My friend has a 2018 F150 STX 4x2 that has the 10 speed trans that had to be replaced. His had a whining sound when starting/idling and it would idle high. It also had shifting issues and seemed to lack power. Hopefully yours is still covered under warranty.
@@Nytronic Its not that Ford won't help, its you dealer that won't help. Try a different dealership. Some are better than others. You can also take it to Lincoln. But before you do that, there's a couple of things you can try yourself. First, get a long screw driver and look through the wheels so you can see the brake rotor. Behind the rotor you'll see a shield. They bend very easily. Take the screw driver and push on the shield and make sure no part of it touched the rotor.
I would also look under the truck. Some F150's have a big metal skid plate under the motor. Make sure its bolted down properly and not rattling.
Both of these problems can sound very similar to the IWE noise.
Where is located?
what a prince, thank you!!!
Has anyone figures put what it was
I don't have this problem, but its a well made video
What if I still hear the "grinding" noise when I am in 4 wheel drive??
I would guess your iwe is binding. In 4x4 the spring forces them to engage. I would jack up the front and try to spin one wheel. If it doesnt spin you are locked in. Check each one individually. Very unlikely both sides are messed up
@@justinswick5274 Well, I had both sides replaced by a Ford dealership who told me that the vacuums were indeed leaking. But the truck is STILL making the noise. Now they are saying after the $650 IWE repair that they believe it is the transfer case need replaced. That's a $2,000 parts/labor or they may be able to get one from a junkyard for about $800 parts/labor...
@@ccmarshall1094 Not sure, but I do know that about 99% of people suck at troubleshooting. I would have another mechanic look at it before dumping that kind of money into such a simple system. If you are in 4x4 and still hearing the noise then the IWEs aren't locked in. A simple way to get the hubs to lock is to unplug the vacuum lines at the top of your firewall where the valve is. The springs will engage the IWEs when there is no vacuum. You can drive around like that with the truck in 2wd and the hubs locked in without damage, but it will cost you gas mileage and I wouldn't drive like that for more than a few miles personally. Try turning the knob from 2wd to 4wd and see if it makes any difference now that you have isolated the IWE's.
My 2013 f150 started doing the same Grinding noise while in 4 wheel drive. Did you ever figured out what was causing that?
@@gabrielarcossalas2197 The Ford dealership replaced the transfer case and the noise was still there. They didn't charge me. But said after further investigation, they assume it's in the transmission, possibly the torque convertor. I am taking it in Monday to a transmission place who is going to diagnose/look in to that. I'll let you know what I find!!
My truck it's doing it when I turn on 4x4 not on 2x4
Is it harmless if not fixed?
No, it will wreck your IWEs!
It says 2013 and up. You mention 2004 and up. Did they purposely neglect us?
My truck is a 2016, but the IWEs have been used by ford since 2004. The systems have changed a throughout the years, but the basic design is very similar in terms of the components used and their function in the system.
@@justinswick5274 Sadly they don't acknowledge it for the 2006 model but I have a mechanic looking at it now and I'll post back to help others.
@@VicMKV www.f150forum.com/f4/2006-4x4-iwe-solenoid-question-14738/ This should help you.
New valve…sound gone
Wow you nailed it ❤
I have this problem and Iv changed the two parts but it continues to make the noise. I have a 2013 f150 eco boost if anyone can help. Thank you in advance
Grant, the vacuum lines to the IWE's are prone to failure as well, as it routes near the exhaust on the passenger side and the lines crack. I just picked them up at the Dealer today, part # BL32-7A785-A for my 2014 F150 Ecoboost, should be same for your 2013, $47.50 + tax.
I had this sound it came and went. I changed the check valve and nothing. I changed the wheel bearings and used the vacuum pump when installing the wheel bearings. The 4x4 was not completely disengaged because the wheel hubs were not seated properly. The sound has gone away for good. 30k miles later still no noise
Great video
I think I have the same problem on my 2019. However I cannot replicate it when at the dealer.
Watch the latter-half of the video where I get out the vacuum gauge. You should be able to force it to happen by pushing the relief valve on the vacuum gage or disconnecting the gage while the truck is driving.
You might want to get a friend to help with this :-)
I have a similar problem on my 2019 4x4 once I get to the end of 3 and let off accelerator not completely into 4th the noise goes click click click really fast. Is this the same problem ? Also I have video of the noise
@@codybuttrey85 for my issue, I changed gas to 91 octane and the noise went away. It was an engine knock issue.
@@texassingh1027 i run nothing but 93
Great video, thank you
definitely going to try this.
Must be the first time for it ever did 4x4
I have this grinding noise in 2 wheel especially when on throttle .
Switch to 4x4 , instantly goes away
That's the symptom if you have a vacuum leak. Replace the check valve and see if it goes away. Otherwise, you have a leak somewhere else in the system.
@@justinswick5274 it was indeed the check valve . Thank you
I thought it was spark knock that's exactly what mine is doing
Thank you !
Hub
Tnx