Just a helpful Fun Fact: The correct size socket to remove the main bolt through the mount is 17 mm. It's torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Another way to reach it is through the driver's wheel well area with extensions. That way you have plenty of leverage and a clear easy shot to see it.
I used an OEM Toyota mount since I plan to keep the car for a long time. One thing to note: this mount attaches to the transmission, not the engine. This is important because it is the transmission you want to jack up.
How much was it? I got a stupid eBay set for $100 & had to grind enough of it to get clearance. That’s after fighting it for an hour did I realize this. Then it was literally 30 seconds to slap back on.
@@thebobhannah Yeah, the whole kit was $100 from A1 Auto but they usually have good parts and helpful videos so I was very disappointed to say the least. I just sent them an email and waiting on a reply. I don’t know how long they’ll last. If I were to get 3 years or 30000 miles out of them I would be happy.
@@luissonoma6255 I bought a whole set from eBay for $60 they didn't go on too bad just a little bit of adjustments but that's likely because I let the factory mounts get to the point where they were completely destroyed
The Kwik-Lift you are using is interesting ... I did some googling and some people said they had trouble ... most jacks that are low enough to get under the bar to lift it do not go high enough for the legs to swing down. Did you find that to be a problem and if not what jack do you use with it?
I haven't had any problems with the jack. I think mine is a big red brand jack. The real trouble with the kwicklift is it's heavy and hard to move by yourself. If you have the space to leave it in one bay and never move it, that would be ideal. I plan to do a video on the kwiklift soon so stay tuned and I'll show you the pros/cons.
Thank you so much for the video. I was looking up videos when I got stuck; turns out this stupid Chinese EBay junk isn’t a direct fit so I had to grind of a piece off the mount so it could fall in place. 🤦🏿♂️
Same here. I had to grind down in different places of the $20 mount to match the original Toyota mount shape. Finally fell in to place like the original broken mount came out after struggling for hours.
Yeah it sucks, best of luck to you. Remember, when you're about to give up, you are at the halfway point, lol. Seriously, it's not the worst job, just uncomfortable to get to. Good luck!
@@TheHandsOnChannel I just did this job my self and its really hard just prepare a small pry bar to align that bolts on the rubber thats the worse one.
I did the 3 mounts now just wanted to see how bad it was going to be for the rear and now I'm screwed cant stop now I bought the 4 I want a smooth ride , was having to much vibration on drive and none on neutral or park!! Crossing my fingers it's hot out here today in los angeles time to bust a sweat. Thanks
BULL!!! I noticed the video cut right before it shows that long stud on TOP of the engine bracket. Would like to know HOW THAT happened. I just spent 4 hours trying to get mine out and it AINT HAPPENING!! you gottta drop the subframe to get it out
I didn't drop the sub frame. I had to raise and lower the engine until I had the clearance. Getting the old one out was tough, putting the new one in was worse. Good luck.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I did the EXACT same thing and there's just NO room..I raised and lowered it about 20 times. Just needed that long stud to go over the bracket and just couldn't get it.
Just finished this job on my sister's matrix, the side mounts and the front are cake, the rear was a pita lol. I added poly inserts too so I don't have to see it anytime soon. Vibrations with the poly mounts are there but minimal over stock.
If you plan on keeping the car and you bought the cheapest mounts you could find I would definitely suggest adding the poly mounts it gives them less of a chance of failure.
I remember my mechanic struggled a lot to replace this one. I used a aftermarket ebay one. Was not a direct fit. They are for the corolla but not the Matrix I believe. I just checked it. It's been 3 years or so. It's shot out. Going to replace it with an OEM one to avoid the struggle!
Just did this, what an awful job, the junk Chinese replacements are awful too. One of the bolts on my factory mount froze coming off and my impact spun the stud out of the mount. Talk about a problem.. I had to get a pry bar and pry up to stop the stud from turning, used a torch to heat up the nut, got lucky it came off.
Wow, I imagine that would be a pain in the neck. Good work sticking with it. Many times I've had stuff like that happen. What should take 2 hours, takes all day. Thanks for commenting.
@@Greenrosettas in the end, I bought the best reviewed set of 4 from Amazon and improved them with the 3m Window Weld. I also already knew to trim the excess metal off of the corner of the rear mount because people pointed out the flaw in the Amazon reviews. I think all of the Chinese ones are inferior to oem, but oem price is crazy. I think the Window Weld vastly improves the likelihood of a longer service life. After a few days it firmed up nicely, and it was a fun little project. Cost was about $65 for the 4 pack of mounts and $20 for a tube of Window Weld. Compare that to probably $500 for 4 OEM mounts.
@@rcenis1 It seems to be fine. The Window Weld flexes, just not as much as stock rubber . If you think about it, a degrading Chinese mount will slowly start to vibrate more and more. The one upgraded with WW will stay the same.
Hell yeah man! Thank you, You just saved me a whole bunch of time i was gonna lower the sub frame and remove the exhaust to get It out. Thank you for this
About to try this. Is this any easier on a 2ZZ engine with 6 speed manual? lol Also, I know you can remove the one bolt from the drivers side wheel well. Is it any easier to remove the mounth that way too?
I just did this. It is super easy if you drop the exhaust catalyst to remove the rear motor mount, and it can easily pass out through the bottom of the car. Thanks for your videos
Bryan L....I am stuck for 3 hours. I have a 2006 corolla. Tried to remove the engine mounting plate but of the 3 bolts one of them is not accessible as the rack/pinion rod is blocking it. Is yours a 2006 corolla as well? Do I need to remove the exhaust manifold?????
Booo! I am having so much problems with that rear bolt! First I received faulty part had to send out for another one. Second did not fit either both were to large bolt holes would not line up. Had to breakdown and buy part from AZ.. Had to part with 123$ And that was cheapest of all four. But any ways that rear bolt is killing me.. I have been working on that rear mount for almost a week every day after work.. Thought this video was going to a help.. Only 2 videos on TH-cam that show this mount and both videos skip the installation of rear mount... Sucks......
I'm Planning On getting My Engine Mounts Replaced On My Corolla S I Even Got An Estimate from The Dealership They Quoted Me $3,300. Which is Crazy!! I'm Still Going to Look Around At Other Shops.
Wow that sounds very high to me. I'd say a fair price to change all the mounts would be 800-1000. Or if you have the time and mechanical skills you could do it yourself for a couple hundred.
Thanks for the video. I wonder if I can lift up the motor from the transfer case (this aluminum wedge with bolts next to the transmission pan). Is not that will be safer than raising the engine from the pan? thanks
Low idle on the 1.8l is often caused by a leaky intake manifold gasket. It's a $10 part and a fairly easy job. So far way more easy than the time I'm having with this mount.
@The Hands On Channel My 2006 Matrix XR (Automatic FWD) has a torn rear engine mount. So I watched your video (and every other similar video on YT) and thought that even though everyone cuts away when trying to extract/insert the mount that it would be possible. I just can't see how you got the mount turned on its side? What magic happened between 9:34 and 9:35? Seriously, I could use some words of wisdom from your success (other than don't give up).
I had to raise and lower the engine until I was able to extract it. It wasn't easy and took me about 30 minutes to figure it out. I think in the end I jacked up the motor once the mount was unbolted and it finally came out. It was a similar process to get the new one installed.
I finally removed the long bolt from the transmission mount. Then I lowered the jack and the transmission was lowered just enough (about 1.25" more than without tranny mount bolt out) that I could turn the mount sideways like you did. I was so excited that I had movement in the right direction that I wasn't paying attention when I was finally able to extract it so now I'm struggling to get the new one in. Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it!
After changing all my engine mounts my transmission pan and control arm are super close to each other. They hit each other during reverse. What can be the problem?
@@TheHandsOnChannel you know what is it. These Chinese motormoutns The fitting is way off. One of the threats is off by a little. Might have to take it out again
@@JorgeandHisVideos I'm getting my butt kicked by this right now as well. Had to call it for the night and walk away. I had to bend the long stud to get it even close to the angle of the old mount. I guess when I go back to it, I'll take it out again and see if there are any other differences i can rectify.
It's a bear to get out, those bolts on the bottom have to be manipulated just right for it to come out. You might have to lift/jack the engine a few inches to get it free. Good luck.
I got a tube of 3M Window Weld and used it to reinforce the new Chinese mounts, should help them last longer. Look it up on here, there are videos that show you how to do it. Worse part is, my factory mount was in better shape than I thought. I'm going to use Window Weld to reinforce it, and save it for a spare if the Chinese part fails.
Basically you look for movement between the bolt and the bushing. Best way to check it is jack the car up and use jack stands for safety. Get under the car with a pry bar or a really big screwdriver. You should be able to find a place to pry the engine mount to check for movement. You could also use a floor jack under the oil pan but use a piece of wood to spread the load. That way you don't damage the pan. It might take a helper to work the jack up and down while you visually inspect the mount for slop. I hope this helps. Good luck and be careful!
I had to get it at the perfect angle and it came out. Sorry I cant really describe it any better, but keep working it at different angles and you will find it.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I jacked the car up and pulles off both front wheels. Grabbed a 17mm socket (fits snug), and a combined 16 inches of extension. I was able to loosen it. I loosened it enough that the welded nut on the passenger side of the mount was not holding the threads. But I could not get the bolt out of the hole. I jacked the transmission, I stuck a set of welders clams on the bolt, I even tried to wedge a flathead screwdriver in between the mount bracket and the bolt to hold tension to spin it out. Wouldnt let go. So I tapped the extension with the socket on the bolt head, got it back on the threads, tightened it, and came in and drank beer.
@@dustinkuebler5450 Hmm, I had to raise the engine or lower it to get the bolt out ( I cant remember). It wasn't easy and I had to drink a few beers before it was over. Try again tomorrow see if you can get to it from the top side.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[1/2] แก๊ง 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้บุก CAMPปลิ้นครั้งนี้ห้ามเสียอาการ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6WUjXHe1TM/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a helpful Fun Fact: The correct size socket to remove the main bolt through the mount is 17 mm. It's torqued to 48 ft. lbs. Another way to reach it is through the driver's wheel well area with extensions. That way you have plenty of leverage and a clear easy shot to see it.
I was just about to give up on changing this Mount until I read your comment. Thanks!
@@a7mad421 Glad to help.
Thanks I have to do this to replace the control arm 🤬
This looks like an enjoyable process. I can’t wait to do it myself.
I used an OEM Toyota mount since I plan to keep the car for a long time. One thing to note: this mount attaches to the transmission, not the engine. This is important because it is the transmission you want to jack up.
How much was it? I got a stupid eBay set for $100 & had to grind enough of it to get clearance. That’s after fighting it for an hour did I realize this. Then it was literally 30 seconds to slap back on.
@@luissonoma6255 It was expensive - about $130 for the one mount if I remember correctly.
@@thebobhannah Yeah, the whole kit was $100 from A1 Auto but they usually have good parts and helpful videos so I was very disappointed to say the least. I just sent them an email and waiting on a reply. I don’t know how long they’ll last. If I were to get 3 years or 30000 miles out of them I would be happy.
@@luissonoma6255 I bought a whole set from eBay for $60 they didn't go on too bad just a little bit of adjustments but that's likely because I let the factory mounts get to the point where they were completely destroyed
All these comments convinced me to take it to a garage.
The Kwik-Lift you are using is interesting ... I did some googling and some people said they had trouble ... most jacks that are low enough to get under the bar to lift it do not go high enough for the legs to swing down.
Did you find that to be a problem and if not what jack do you use with it?
I haven't had any problems with the jack. I think mine is a big red brand jack. The real trouble with the kwicklift is it's heavy and hard to move by yourself. If you have the space to leave it in one bay and never move it, that would be ideal. I plan to do a video on the kwiklift soon so stay tuned and I'll show you the pros/cons.
@@TheHandsOnChannel
... thanks for the reply will stay tuned ...
All these comments convinced me to take it to a garage.
Thank you so much for the video. I was looking up videos when I got stuck; turns out this stupid Chinese EBay junk isn’t a direct fit so I had to grind of a piece off the mount so it could fall in place. 🤦🏿♂️
Same here. I had to grind down in different places of the $20 mount to match the original Toyota mount shape. Finally fell in to place like the original broken mount came out after struggling for hours.
If u take the wheel off u would've had it perfectly seen by us
im watching this and laughing in pain as i mentally prepares myself to perform this task in the upcoming week. May the Car Gods have mercy on my soul.
Yeah it sucks, best of luck to you. Remember, when you're about to give up, you are at the halfway point, lol. Seriously, it's not the worst job, just uncomfortable to get to. Good luck!
@@TheHandsOnChannel I just did this job my self and its really hard just prepare a small pry bar to align that bolts on the rubber thats the worse one.
I feel it! About to tackle this job myself.
I did the 3 mounts now just wanted to see how bad it was going to be for the rear and now I'm screwed cant stop now I bought the 4 I want a smooth ride , was having to much vibration on drive and none on neutral or park!! Crossing my fingers it's hot out here today in los angeles time to bust a sweat. Thanks
@@TheHandsOnChannel
Did it fix the vibration?
BULL!!! I noticed the video cut right before it shows that long stud on TOP of the engine bracket. Would like to know HOW THAT happened. I just spent 4 hours trying to get mine out and it AINT HAPPENING!! you gottta drop the subframe to get it out
I didn't drop the sub frame. I had to raise and lower the engine until I had the clearance. Getting the old one out was tough, putting the new one in was worse. Good luck.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I did the EXACT same thing and there's just NO room..I raised and lowered it about 20 times. Just needed that long stud to go over the bracket and just couldn't get it.
I removed my subframe to get my mount out, I have to replace it again so I'll try to do it without removing it this time
Just finished this job on my sister's matrix, the side mounts and the front are cake, the rear was a pita lol. I added poly inserts too so I don't have to see it anytime soon.
Vibrations with the poly mounts are there but minimal over stock.
If you plan on keeping the car and you bought the cheapest mounts you could find I would definitely suggest adding the poly mounts it gives them less of a chance of failure.
Cant see shit
I remember my mechanic struggled a lot to replace this one. I used a aftermarket ebay one. Was not a direct fit. They are for the corolla but not the Matrix I believe. I just checked it. It's been 3 years or so. It's shot out. Going to replace it with an OEM one to avoid the struggle!
Just did this, what an awful job, the junk Chinese replacements are awful too. One of the bolts on my factory mount froze coming off and my impact spun the stud out of the mount. Talk about a problem.. I had to get a pry bar and pry up to stop the stud from turning, used a torch to heat up the nut, got lucky it came off.
Wow, I imagine that would be a pain in the neck. Good work sticking with it. Many times I've had stuff like that happen. What should take 2 hours, takes all day. Thanks for commenting.
@Johnny Moran Any brand name(s) to avoid? Think I should stick with OEM on these?
@@Greenrosettas in the end, I bought the best reviewed set of 4 from Amazon and improved them with the 3m Window Weld. I also already knew to trim the excess metal off of the corner of the rear mount because people pointed out the flaw in the Amazon reviews. I think all of the Chinese ones are inferior to oem, but oem price is crazy. I think the Window Weld vastly improves the likelihood of a longer service life. After a few days it firmed up nicely, and it was a fun little project. Cost was about $65 for the 4 pack of mounts and $20 for a tube of Window Weld. Compare that to probably $500 for 4 OEM mounts.
@@johnnymoran180 using this method, there won't be any spaces and vibrations are going to be more intense,tell me whats happen .
@@rcenis1 It seems to be fine. The Window Weld flexes, just not as much as stock rubber . If you think about it, a degrading Chinese mount will slowly start to vibrate more and more. The one upgraded with WW will stay the same.
Hell yeah man! Thank you, You just saved me a whole bunch of time i was gonna lower the sub frame and remove the exhaust to get It out. Thank you for this
Right on, glad it helped. Thanks for commenting.
If you carefully jack the engine you can have more room, came thru
the wheel well this helped
Need yourself some dewalt drills, breaks them loose like nothing
Drills!? Didn't see any drills in the video
do you know the position of rear drive shaft on a awd 2009 s model im abut to put a new one i cant find nothing in the internet thank you so much
Sorry I don't know. When I get stumped I go to the toyota forums and search there. Good luck!
@The Hands On Channel I can't find there neither I will buy a new drive shaft and pray that fit just right thank you so much
It's 17 mil
About to try this. Is this any easier on a 2ZZ engine with 6 speed manual? lol Also, I know you can remove the one bolt from the drivers side wheel well. Is it any easier to remove the mounth that way too?
I just did this. It is super easy if you drop the exhaust catalyst to remove the rear motor mount, and it can easily pass out through the bottom of the car. Thanks for your videos
Bryan L....I am stuck for 3 hours. I have a 2006 corolla. Tried to remove the engine mounting plate but of the 3 bolts one of them is not accessible as the rack/pinion rod is blocking it. Is yours a 2006 corolla as well? Do I need to remove the exhaust manifold?????
@@thewishmastur hi im stuck for a day. How did you do it?
I have all 4 of these videos saved. Just changed the one under the air filter, this one will be next. Thanks for uploading these… really helped!
It’s 17mm, remove the left wheel and there’s a open look at the bolt from there. Use a long extension bar
Booo! I am having so much problems with that rear bolt! First I received faulty part had to send out for another one. Second did not fit either both were to large bolt holes would not line up. Had to breakdown and buy part from AZ.. Had to part with 123$ And that was cheapest of all four. But any ways that rear bolt is killing me.. I have been working on that rear mount for almost a week every day after work.. Thought this video was going to a help.. Only 2 videos on TH-cam that show this mount and both videos skip the installation of rear mount... Sucks......
Keep at it, mine took several attempts to get it in. Try to raise or lower the engine and try again. Good luck!
im a mechanic doing this right now omg this fucking bracket
Taking it out on the top passenger side much easier
I'm Planning On getting My Engine Mounts Replaced On My Corolla S I Even Got An Estimate from The Dealership They Quoted Me $3,300. Which is Crazy!! I'm Still Going to Look Around At Other Shops.
Wow that sounds very high to me. I'd say a fair price to change all the mounts would be 800-1000. Or if you have the time and mechanical skills you could do it yourself for a couple hundred.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I Agree!!👍
Thanks for the video. I wonder if I can lift up the motor from the transfer case (this aluminum wedge with bolts next to the transmission pan). Is not that will be safer than raising the engine from the pan? thanks
As long as you use a piece of 2x4 to spread the load it should be fine.
I did the motor mounts on mine and it still vibrates at low idle in gear. Maybe even a little worse with the new Mounts.
Tune up/clean throttle body. But these cars are kinda buzzy in drive at idle no matter what you do. Good luck.
I had this problem as well, I used cheap SKP mounts from rockauto, I’m about to give it another whirl with anchor mounts.
@@andrewball8441 Just get oem if you care about the car
Low idle on the 1.8l is often caused by a leaky intake manifold gasket. It's a $10 part and a fairly easy job.
So far way more easy than the time I'm having with this mount.
Good video 👍
Thanks 👍
@@TheHandsOnChannel You're welcome :)
@The Hands On Channel
My 2006 Matrix XR (Automatic FWD) has a torn rear engine mount. So I watched your video (and every other similar video on YT) and thought that even though everyone cuts away when trying to extract/insert the mount that it would be possible. I just can't see how you got the mount turned on its side? What magic happened between 9:34 and 9:35? Seriously, I could use some words of wisdom from your success (other than don't give up).
I had to raise and lower the engine until I was able to extract it. It wasn't easy and took me about 30 minutes to figure it out. I think in the end I jacked up the motor once the mount was unbolted and it finally came out. It was a similar process to get the new one installed.
I finally removed the long bolt from the transmission mount. Then I lowered the jack and the transmission was lowered just enough (about 1.25" more than without tranny mount bolt out) that I could turn the mount sideways like you did. I was so excited that I had movement in the right direction that I wasn't paying attention when I was finally able to extract it so now I'm struggling to get the new one in. Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it!
What is that red car stand you are working under?
0:57 I believe that's a 17mm bolt
There's water up in that rear one, I know because I just a face full doing that one. I'm pulling the trans though. Wish it was just mounts.
Oh man that sucks, good luck. Yeah that rear bolt shot water all over me, lol.
You weren't joking about getting it out. It took me forever to get out and just as long to get in and lined up.
Yeah, they are a real pain, but I'm glad you got it.
After changing all my engine mounts my transmission pan and control arm are super close to each other. They hit each other during reverse. What can be the problem?
Sorry I really don't know. I'm guessing maybe you installed one of the mounts upside down?
I think the front mount can be put in backwards. The rest can only go in one way.
Rear mount was a PIA
I'm having the worst trouble lining the threats up
I'm stressing out
Yeah it can be difficult. Try raising and lowering the engine to help line things up. Good luck.
@@TheHandsOnChannel you know what is it. These Chinese motormoutns
The fitting is way off. One of the threats is off by a little. Might have to take it out again
@@JorgeandHisVideos I'm getting my butt kicked by this right now as well. Had to call it for the night and walk away.
I had to bend the long stud to get it even close to the angle of the old mount.
I guess when I go back to it, I'll take it out again and see if there are any other differences i can rectify.
leaking valve cover gasket also?
I have loosened up all the bolts and I'm having problems taking out the engine mount itself, looks like its snagging on something
It's a bear to get out, those bolts on the bottom have to be manipulated just right for it to come out. You might have to lift/jack the engine a few inches to get it free. Good luck.
Gotta be different getting it out on the vibe
Did you make a second video?
thanks mate it help me alot
This had to have been a 4 day deal, i cannot figure it out and gave up. 😭😭
I got a tube of 3M Window Weld and used it to reinforce the new Chinese mounts, should help them last longer. Look it up on here, there are videos that show you how to do it. Worse part is, my factory mount was in better shape than I thought. I'm going to use Window Weld to reinforce it, and save it for a spare if the Chinese part fails.
Bro what are signs for bad rear mount
Basically you look for movement between the bolt and the bushing. Best way to check it is jack the car up and use jack stands for safety. Get under the car with a pry bar or a really big screwdriver. You should be able to find a place to pry the engine mount to check for movement. You could also use a floor jack under the oil pan but use a piece of wood to spread the load. That way you don't damage the pan. It might take a helper to work the jack up and down while you visually inspect the mount for slop. I hope this helps. Good luck and be careful!
The Hands On Channel I have a problem when idle even runing also i have vibration
How do I get that center bolt out. Its part way out and now I cant turn it in or out it seems... the one that goes through the mount's rubber.
I had to get it at the perfect angle and it came out. Sorry I cant really describe it any better, but keep working it at different angles and you will find it.
@@TheHandsOnChannel I jacked the car up and pulles off both front wheels. Grabbed a 17mm socket (fits snug), and a combined 16 inches of extension. I was able to loosen it. I loosened it enough that the welded nut on the passenger side of the mount was not holding the threads. But I could not get the bolt out of the hole. I jacked the transmission, I stuck a set of welders clams on the bolt, I even tried to wedge a flathead screwdriver in between the mount bracket and the bolt to hold tension to spin it out. Wouldnt let go. So I tapped the extension with the socket on the bolt head, got it back on the threads, tightened it, and came in and drank beer.
@@dustinkuebler5450 Hmm, I had to raise the engine or lower it to get the bolt out ( I cant remember). It wasn't easy and I had to drink a few beers before it was over. Try again tomorrow see if you can get to it from the top side.
@@TheHandsOnChannel ok. I have the old mount out and am now trying to rig the new one on down in. How did you do it? Any specific steps?
@@dustinkuebler5450 Just be ready to raise or lower the engine until it will wiggle in. It was a pain to get out but mine went in easier. Good luck.
Hello Sir a very well organized work really organized but just wondering what tools u used if u can share it thank U God Bless yr talent
My dad want engine for carfixing
Okay