Prusa MK3s vs Ender 3 V2 - comparison
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ค. 2024
- Since I published a review of Creality Ender 3 V2, I got a lot of questions from my friends or students, who knows that I already have Prusa MK3s, what is the difference between these two 3D printers or which one to buy. So in this video I am going step-by-step comparison between two most popular 3D printers in the world, the Creality Ender 3 V2 and Prusa MK3s. Price difference is huge, but if we consider the price in final score, these printers may be comparable.
Specification table can be found on this link:
mytechfun.com/video/61
Ender 3 V2 on Banggood (affiliate link):
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGv...
Prusa website (not affiliate):
shop.prusa3d.com/en/51-origin...
Contents:
0:00 Introduction
1:02 Specification table
1:20 Price
2:10 3D printing size
2:45 First impressions
3:52 Homing
5:05 Y axis
6:20 X axis
7:54 Z axis
9:49 Travel speed
10:02 Extruder
11:34 Nozzle and hotend
12:44 Hotbed
14:17 Bed leveling
16:00 Layer thickness
17:19 UI and display
18:38 Stepper motor drivers
19:34 Cooling fans
20:44 Other specs
21:12 3D printing
23:19 Testing layer adhesion
24:37 Results of testing
24:52 About materials
25:22 Conclusions
Ender 3 V2 review video
• Review of Creality End...
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Excellent review from a proper engineer! Thank you
This is not just a review, this is a learning video about how 3d printers work. This is how it's done.
That Ender 3 benchy looked worse than any Ender 3 benchy I've ever printed myself - even compared to my first benchy which was THE first 3D print I ever made. Something is off with your settings mate ...
Same, my benchies look much better than his on mt ender 3 pro, like not even close
This is the best review yet and very helpful in determining best printer for my needs. Thank you
Thank you for the indepth comparison of each axes' mechanical method. Very informative.
Thanks, great video! It is obvious that you spent a lot of time comparing them and using them in real life. I wish every reviewer would be as thoroughly as you are. Thanks.
Now my Ender3V2 has a lot of upgrades. 3 more comming up. After this I will compare fully upgraded Ender3V2 vs Prusa (price comparison too)
A great review, many thanks. Simple and effective strength test!
Compact and meaningful content! Hoping for Prusa Mini Review 💪
Terrific. Really unbiased and thorough comparison. Thank you very much!
Very informative and detailed, thank you big man!
Thank you for doing this! Very detailed and very specific to an engineering level of understanding. Very detailed specs as well. Love the visuals.
Great job! Honest review and unbiased. That’s what I want to see.
Amazing video, thx for comparing the two 3D printers :3
Thanks for going into so much depth! Your English is plenty great! :D
The Prusa ecosystem alone is worth every penny. Ive used them for year and can say, never had i have a better experience as with the prusas. Its simply amazing.
Hi, what do you think about the prusa mini?
@@chedil08 Amazingly simple printer and perfect for beginners. The thing with prusa is, it just works. I started completely different and even did build my own printer, but prusa is just a different animal, its so easy.
Finally a real review, thanks for it!
Excellent comparison, thank you.
Great comparison but i have an ender v2 and i have way more smooth quality when printing, she need a little bit tweeking (not too much just standard tests) but can be a lot more than that, prusa is better ofc but comparing the price prusa simply cant handle the figth, so depends on your needs as always, v2 whit a little bit of tweeking can be good as a prusa BUT you need tweeking and a lot of knowledge on whats actually happening, and is way less reliable than a prusa for sure, and way less user friendly, the prusa is worth the price if you cant prevent errors/ repair errors or if you simply dont want ot do that, and you want a printer that just do is job no matter what. So in conclusion the prusa is outstanding, but if you know what ur are doin and you want to spend less and maybe have some difficulties along the way pick the ender v2 all the time.
Great work anyways keep it on :d sorry if isnt all correct but im italian and im still learning.
Είσαι σοβαρός. Μίλα Ελληνικά ρε μπας και καταλάβουμε και εμείς τίποτα. Αφού Νικολαιδη δεν είπες ότι σε λένε.
Excellent review. Thank you.
Very good and honest video! Thank you
For a hobbyist willing to cope with some slight problems, the Creality is fine. For a commercial use the Prusa seems well suited. Good review. Thanks for the link to the comparison.
I have both and my ender works great but I wouldn't call some of the issues i had in the beginning "Slight issues"
Nice comparison. I had my E3 for over a year. It gave me a lot of problems until I found the right upgrades and maintenance steps.Hope to get a prusa one-day and just print without putting any work into the printer.
I don't think 3D printing is for everyone.
I just started printing 2 months ago and I'm already doing dimensionally accurate prototyping and selling products online. I have an Ender 3 V2. I've only upgraded the extruder and hotend. I haven't needed to tinker with it anymore than I would a new computer I build.
Don't expect the prusa will be trouble free and you'll be starting off $600 more in the hole.
@@dangerous8333 ok bro, chill out. 3D printing is now for everyone? What kind of statement is that? Just because you really took a deep dive with it doesn't mean that everyone will. Some do 3D printing for a HOBBY and just that. They won't learn full 3d modelling and prototype-ing, some people just love learning the tech behind it, creating stuff from premade files and then they get on with their life. Why does this mean that its not for them?
Very well done comparison!
Excellent informative review with lots great details. Thanks
Nice to get a review by Tom Hanks, great accent and awesome actor 😂🤣 But seriously, super review thank you very much, keep up good work.
more like todd hoffman :o)
Thanks for the review
Excellent info, thanks!
Nice comparaison, thanx. That said, i am afraid that something must be wrong with the ender settings and maybe you got it working better now because some prints (like the little bits you used as strenth test) look really bad. Regards.
Thanks a lot for this comparison
Great spec review.. as a Mechanical Engineer myself I appreciate all the points you spoke of.. I should be getting a E3 v2 for Christmas this week.. can't wait..
News ?
Also as a Mechanical Engineer I am disappointed by amount of plastic parts Prusa uses in key structual areas considering its high cost & the general lack of evoloution, to fix problems as identified by the 3D Printing community. Are you paying to support the Prusa factory as it does not seem to represent value for money in a very competative market place?
@@peteturner8493 can you plz suggest good printer for beginner.
@@tinkru4136 No not at this time, more eveloution needed before I would consider a purchase and will not buy a cheap chineese version, as all ppl seem to do is spend a ton of money on modifications!
@@peteturner8493 ok
Any reason for not buying Ender pro , cr10 , prusa mini ?
Thank you, you have done a great and quality job.
Very well done, thorough, and detailed. Much appreciated!
Thank you for the video.. much appreciated
Keep up the great work!
Nice review, thank you. My Ender 3 v2 has three upgrades that made a difference. 1-the Bowden tube coupler furthest from the head. Replaced that and could reduce retraction distance and almost all stringing is gone. 2-OctoPi/Print, super easy, wifi file transfer, plugins like arc welder and print time, the print cam, no need to mess with the display. 3- remote switch, I turn the printer on and off with a RF mains switch. I should build it into OctoPi but am too lazy. It’s so easy to hit the remote on the desk when the print is done and turn the printer off.
I have my printer connected to an Amazon smart plug and just tell Alexa to turn it on and off. I can set a timer and everything.
@@dangerous8333 I have tplink smart plug with the plugin on octoprint, with a timer set to let printer cooldown after print and it shutsdown automatically after every print. Then with a click of a button on octoprint turns on the printer and connects the printer to octoprint.
Nice review. Thanks👍
I have the v2 + 4 more printers and they do a great job. If you are loaded buy the Prusa if you are not loaded the v2 will be a great choice as well. Honestly I can't see a major difference between them. Hey if you have a Rolex watch that is great but a Casio watch will do the job as well. Another example: the Bentley will take you exactly the same destination as a Suzuki will. What is the difference? 😊
Very informative. Thank you. 👍
Ender-3Pro V1-em van, de ilyen rondát nem szoktam vele nyomtatni. Mondjuk ahhoz kellett némi tapasztalat. Ettől függetlenül elhiszem, hogy jobb a Prusa. Jó videó.
Niiiice! Ender 3 + upgrade for sure is good!
I have had no stringing problems with my Ender 3 V2 out of the box without setting changes.
I have some stringing issues without any tweaking the settings in cura but after setting retraction distance to 6.5mm and retraction speed to 40mm/s stringing problem gone, now it prints perfectly
If the temperature in your room is a few degrees different, if your filiment isn’t fully dry, there are a lot of reasons that these things happen
@@ReplicateReality yeah that's true, there is mostly 20-40% relative humidity where i live and indoor temperature is usually 37-38 °C
@@tinkerersagar you live in india ? i want to get a ender V2 too, from where should i buy it , from where did you bought your's ender V2 , Amazon.in ?
Awesome video. I own both and I also run printing on demand and I can say that the Prusa is far superior for click and forget. I find that the only upgrade for the Prusa I needed was just to reprint the fan in PC to handle higher temps for longer. Most people that use Print on demand already have a printer, but their printer can't handle more advanced materials, so they reach out to print on demand. I also never had a problem with the printed parts and zip ties of the Prusa except for the fan shroud. I also found that the Prusa does take longer in the initial set up however the ender 3 does take longer in the long run due to troubleshooting. Both machines are great and they both have their place in the market. The Ender 3 is such an amazing introduction to 3d printing due to the great price to quality. I started with the Ender 3 and bought a Prusa after sinking like 1k in upgrades just for Ender 3. Both perform about equally in terms of quality but Prusa is far more consistent and more refined. I also think the Prusa is excellent for beginners because you have to assemble your own machine which allows for better knowledge and also the slicing, material, and fail-safes are all automatic and much more refined for the Prusa slicing a beginner much more confidence into the market. In comparison, The Ender 3 might scare a consumer because it is a much more independent workflow and requires a lot of patience. Nonetheless, great video and I am a supporter of both machines.
@What saith the scripture? yes I use a blend. I used polymax. Just print in an enclosure and you'll be spot on. Also the first time you print PC print t a new fan shroud you'll thank me later. I find that keeping the fan running does make a difference in print quality for polymax. Keep your spool in a dry box. It doesn't have to be perfect. I used some desiccant from previous filaments and put it in a box with the spool. I then poned a hole with a screwdriver. Worked like a charm.
When I first bought my E3V2 I thought one day I would own a Prusa. However, the more I learned and the more skills I developed, the more I realized it wasn't necessary. Prusa at one time may have been the only game in town but they're just not anymore. After all the videos and comments I've watched and read, I don't see the Prusa MK3 as an upgrade anymore. People don't know what they have with the E3V2 and they're not experienced enough to make it better or don't keep it long enough to really learn its true potential. If you're technically inclined you can easily turn the E3V2 into an MK3 with just $150 in upgrades and new firmware. The glass bed is awesome. I don't see where the Prusa is more refined in areas that matter. As an engineer and metal fabricator I understand diminishing returns.
Now with a CRtouch (unnecessary but convenient) and Jyers firmware I just hit print and walk away, I don't think I've even watched a first layer in 6 months and I print prototypes all day at 150mm/s and they are dimensionally accurate.
Now that I've owned it for almost a year it confuses me the problems people have with it and then I just summed it up to more beginners buy this now and people without technical know-how who can't or won't learn the basics on how to set up a 3D printer.
1k in upgrades though? That's absurd, is that what the Ender 3 needed? Geezus... The E3V2 only needs all metal hotend, metal extruder, Capricorn tube, firmware and enclosure for ASA etc.. Direct drive is not even necessary and just adds weight to the print head. I see so many people putting upgrades on their Enders it doesn't need (not saying that's what you did). Marketing and TH-cam influencers are out of control these days that tell people they need things they don't.
@@dangerous8333 Yea the early set of E3's where rough. I've been eying up the v2 for a long time. Also the Prusa's pre config profiles are just bonkers convenient. I found they even work for E3s too just adjust the retraction settings and your good to go. I've never had to make my own filament settings with the prusa slicer
The most and big advantage of MK3s is a magnetic bed with quick changeover. If you print prototypes or some little part from future big prints you always will redisign it for few times. While using Ender/Anycubic Ultrabase you need to wait 15-20 mins until bed will cooldown, while using Prusa magnetic bed - you just take it away, wait for 1-2 mins and bend it. Also PEI coated sheet gives you amazing first layer surface. Also for Ender/Anycubic you should use custom firmware for mesh bed leveling, because after warming up to 90 degree's Ultrabase is not flat, gap is about 0.2mm. MK3s has the same issue, but it makes Z axis compensation by PINDA (inductive sensor).
P/S I am owner of Anycubic I3 Mega with direct drive + Original Prusa MK3s
15:23 if you go to the HW settings you can add another sheet profile and calibrate it. Then you can choose which sheet profile do you want to use when u press the knob. For example i have 3 sheet profiles. smooth, textured and flex (flex is smooth sheet but i attached tape on it when i want to print TPE) Again very good and informative video.
Great video - thanks!
Your videos are really excellent! Very well prepared with a lot of useful information. I like very much! Keep it up!
First of all great video. I found the hesitations for which words to use endearing. Your videos were critical and put into consideration factors I had overlooked. Very grateful for the time you put into making this.
You bought the Prusa first, why? When you were finished with the Ender was there regret on purchasing the Prusa first?
I'm looking at the MK3S+ or the 3V2 both have small beds. You mention a few times about 3 times the cost.
How much time did you have to spend messing around with the Ender vs the Prusa? Is the extra cost of the Prusa a real time saver? I'm more interested in printing than I am building 3d printers. 😄 That damn cost though for the Prusa is insane... but will I go insane tinkering with the 3v2?
you can add a direct drive and all metal hot end and an extender kit and still be hundreds under the Prusa price
Yes, I am working on that, only direct drive is missing ;-)
left a like, thank you very much!
The ender V2 can be modified and changed that could give you results like the prusa i3. The prusa i3 is already made perfectly without the need of changing anything. Both are good, 1 is good for those who like tinkering, the other is good for those who want a hassle free printer
I haven't really had to tinker with my Ender 3 V2 that much. No more than I would tinker with a computer I just built. And I saved over $500 that I put into other hobbies.
Its utterly idiotic comparison. You are comparing a 750$ printer to a 155$ printer. A 750$ printer that comes with a lot of low quality 3d printed parts that you need to replace.
@@Nobody-Nowhere where tf are you getting a 155 printer
@@Nobody-Nowhere and your explantion makes no sense
I have an ender 3 v2 and although I’ve learned a lot over the years. I make way better money now then when I bought my v2. I’m at the point where I just don’t want to touch it anymore and just hit print. The Prusa has quality parts and you know it’ll work and that’s what people want to pay for.
Gran video comparando estas dos maquinas .. felicidades
I own Ender 3 pro now for just over 6 months. It never skipped a beat and I printed with different size nozzles already. Also assembly takes about an hour. I can't even slightly justify Prusa's price tag.
Very good, thorough video, thank you for sharing! Are the print times fairly similar?
Prusa is 20% faster approx. But also what I like, that PrusaSlicer is precise in a minute when estimate the printing time. Then Cura with ender may have big differences.
@@MyTechFun thank you!
Interesting, I don't know if you mentioned the software used for the slicing. I think the ender 3v2 printing can be greatly improved if the software profile correctly calibrated. In fact, I did a benchy on my Ender 3v2 and it was nearly perfect, looking like your prusa benchy. Great job anyway, the last part was very interesting.
My 3v2 impresses the shut out of me. Definitely spend time playing with slicer settings getting it straight
great review
I think if you're arguing about 3 vs 1 then it's also really interesting how is your experience with the print consistency over time, especially how many failed/problem prints that need manual intervention/restart/reprint and the actual printing speed (e.g. Cura prints with 50mm/s default for Ender 3) and how different speeds affect quality.
Great, a new idea for testing. Thx
you are not alone. i spent 8 hours to setup Ender 3😄. I recently got a Prusa so I think I need to clear my whole day before setting that one up🙃.
How did the set up compare? How are you liking the prusa? Worth the extra cheese?
I have an anet a8 (prusa copy) and ender 3. Do you think there would be a benefit to swap the round bearing rails from the a8 to the ender 3 and eliminate the groove wheels?
Very useful, thank you. Made me think that I want something in between. Price-wise something closer to Ender, and construction-wise - to Prusa.
I think I found something between. Testing in prigress..
Maybe the Fystec mk3s clone? I paid 249€ incl. shipping on 11.11 sale on AliExpress. Plastic parts you have to print yourself )or order it seperatly for abot 25€). With changing bearings to higher quality ones and replace heatbreak to mull metal, you get the mk3s for about 300€.
@@MyTechFun curious to hear about your results! Thanks!
@@DylanStJohn Mingda D2, very promissing specs, but still not perfect, but almost. th-cam.com/video/EdAn5-Pc-k4/w-d-xo.html
That would be buying an Ender 3 v2 and putting about $100 worth of updates on it.
tmc-s detect the obstacles by inreased current, as it works as sensorless homing too.
wow! good job!
The fully automatic mesh bed leveling is an absolute must for me. I just got an Ender 3 v2 and it came with a slightly warped bed. I don’t have BLTouch because I honestly don’t think it gives enough of an advantage. There is ZERO automatic mesh leveling for these cheap printers. I get some really high quality prints after painstaking leveling, but I think I will return the Ender and get myself a Prusa for the reliability and just overall superior quality. I just printed a vertical mounted Octopi mount for my Ender though 😭
EDIT: Got a Prusa i3 MK3S+. Been loving it ever since and never had issues. Just set up the z-adjust once and you’re good to go!
you can run different firmware on the ender 3 with various bed leveling options... but it is abit scary to compile your own firmware :o
I have been using an ender3v2 for a few months now. Although I like it and its been a great first printer to learn on, it requires A TON of maintenance and troubleshooting. Although I've never used the Prusa, I think you made the right choice. There's this cultish love of the ender 3 which I honestly don't totally understand.
Bed leveling on ender 3 v2 is killing me. I just use it for hobby printing and it is my first printer. I got a bl touch installed but still, bed leveling.. Damn. Sometimes I don't want to touch the printer because I know I will have to go through the bed levelling process. Can never get it perfect
For printed TPU parts removal from pei bed, use few drops of etanol around the printed edge, it'll move under tpu print, and you can just peel it off easily.
I am using textured sheet now, much easier to remove
for tpu on PEi : use a glue stick. sticks and makes it easy to peel off
and you protect the bed that way as well
@@patrickmaartense7772 I've bought pei to not mess with glue , hairspray etc :) Etanol is really nice and clean (punt intended) solution .. tpu sticks to anything - even clean glass, so it sticks to pei even better, and with this trick it comes off as easy as peeling a banana, try it.
@@robertmolnar7957 absolutely, just beaware that TPU stick VERY well to PEI, Sometimes to well, I damaged my first sheet by not putting a separation sheet in beetween. now when printing tpu i spray a bit of my magix solution ( pva glue mix in 60/40 alcohol and water) over that old sheet ( on the not damaged side)
as a separation layer this works very well and is also easy to clean
@@patrickmaartense7772 exactly, that's why i wrote that hint, try without your mix and after your bed cools down, pour few drops of alcohol around the edge of print and see how easy it is to peel off, alcohol just get pulled under it and somehow either inflates tpu surface a bit or something else but it just works
When you mention the filament you can print on the Prusa, are you printing them in an enclosure(such as ABS ASA NYLON, I know those can be tricky to print without an enclosure)
Yes, I just finished testing some PC, Nylon, ABS (printed on Ender3V2 with all metal hotend) th-cam.com/video/caPEp_3uHoE/w-d-xo.html
great video thanks
Not even a contest. MK3S all week twice on Tuesdays. If you want a printer to learn how to make a printer then you'll love the Ender 3. Now if you want a printer to actually print then you need the Prusa Research printer.
Great work
you re a real man!
GREAT review!! Excellent. Only: the soundquality is very bad, echo.
I see the Prusa as a Porsche (even pronounced similarly lol) and the Ender is a Supra. Supras are boring but offer a blank slate when stock but after some mods they are amazing.
My Ender 3v2 is no different. I can literally hit print remotely and come back to a perfect print now, but it required some work. I haven’t had to touch the bed in over a year now.
- Capricorn tube
-Yellow springs
- Dragonfly BMS metal hot end (rated for 500*)
- Fang fan shroud
- dual Orion fans
- Magnetic build plate
- Jyers firmware mesh bed leveling was the biggest change and it was free (I know it’s outdated but it’s so dialed in right now I’m scared to change anything)
Like $120 in mods plus the $300 for the printer is still good value imo.
great video ! I bought the ender 3 v2 as its my 1st printer and i didn't even know if it was going to be any use for me. I found I had to upgrade the bowden tube to Capricorn to be able to print clear PETG. I think this review is quite accurate and kind of wish I watched it before I bought the ender 3 v2. I think they are both great printers but since I sort of new I wanted to eventually try and print PETG and NYLON or ABS I may well have been better off just spending more money for the direct drive already setup and avoiding the one sided Z axis design. I don't really regret buying the ender , it's a great printer to start out on and doesn't break the bank if you decide it's not for you.. but like me if your quite sure you need high strength parts made from PETG or NYLON , I think it might be worth going for the Prusa if you can afford it and skipping the hassle of DIY mods.
The issue with dual drive motors for Z axis is one can be bumped out of phase with the other. I just bought a CR3 v2 knowing full well that upgrades were necessary for premium performance. With a 200% budget surplus the V2 is the winner to me. There is a dual screw kit using the single stepper to drive it. The screws are locked to each other via timing belt. The one limitation of the CR is the center load bearing point of the hot bed. Meaning a deflection if a heavy object is offset. But I don't think commercial applications are prudent for either of them.
Why would you give out advice when you yourself don't really know what you're talking about?
First of all, an Ender 3 v2 Prints PETG, ASA and ABS perfectly fine. All I've upgraded is my extruder to an all-metal one, a Capricorn tube, all metal hot end and a creality enclosure. My upgrades cost less than $100. I make dimensionally accurate prototypes and sell products online and I've only been printing for 2 months. Direct drive is completely unnecessary.
You do not need to spend an extra $600 to do anything you said or get the same quality prints as the Prusa.
End of the day it just sounds like the Prusa is for people who value their time
@@JasonCrothers that was my point, you can make the ender work, but it's time and effort. Just bought the auto bed leveler, that's essential whne the ender gets older as bed warps. More expense and effort.
@@BenBilesBB-box thanks for the response. It's kinda what I'm getting from everything I'm reading. Prusa just works, Ender is endless tinkering and modding. Like great it's cheap but oh this part broke and the metal part is a 2 week wait with shipping from China. Oh this other part broke, I needed to order this part. It's too bad Crealty doesn't just up the Quality and end up with a few hundred dollar more printer but is now reliable and less fussy
Great job, Igor. I am very curious to see how long that plastic wheels will last on the ender 3. There is also a discussion about the ptfe tube in the hotend of the ender 3. It might be a safety issue. It is known that degradation by-products of the ptfe can be lethal to birds, and can cause flu-like symptoms in humans-see polymer fume fever. It started to be harmful to birds at 200°C, which is much lower temperature than one would expect.
Plastic wheels are not my favourite for linear motion. They are good, no problems with them when they are new. But after a year or less, you will forgot about them, just notice bad quality of printing.. There is a great upgrade on internet to linear rails. Yes, teflon tube you shouldn't use above 240°C. Maybe upgrade to Capricorn tube will give you few °C more. But all metal hotend is much reasonable upgrade.
Dont know if you figured out sensorless homing, but a motor that faces resistance requires a large burst of current. Skipping steps has a very definitive current spike that can be detected using hall effect sensors
Since I replaced the bowden couplings and the bowden tube in my Ender 3 the prints are clean, with no or a very little stringing. Factory fitted bowden couplings are garbage. Tube moves in them in and out over 1 mm, which ruins retractions. My Ender 3 is mostly upgraded to V2, it has a 32-bit silent board from Creality, a borosilicate glass bed, aluminum extruder, and a BL-Touch automatic bed leveling system. I can recommend these upgrades (maybe not BL-Touch) to all Ender 3 V1 owners.
hey, did you see any signifoicant improvement made by bl touch? Im looking for the best value for money upgrade for my ender 3 v2
@@ktestable No, as long as you are using Ultrabase or any other glass build plate there is no good reason for BL Touch.
Thank you very much good job
Really good review, I do however feel that the ender wasn't given as fair a chance, I understand running the machines at the same temp but if the ender was happier printing cooler then that would have made better parts that might not have failed as easily, as I say a very good review that has clearly been well thought out, just feel the ender can do better than demonstrated
I think you can fine tune it to print better stuff, but it takes work to get there. I have ender 3 pro and i have great results but its not easy
I have an ender 3 v2 with no modifications and the prints look way better than what you're getting for some reason. Really the printers don't vary a ton in print quality no matter how much you spend since they are limited by the filament and its physics more than the stepper motors. I think the ender 3 v2 just requires more time to get dialed in or something but the quality should be about the same. I'd definitely prefer the direct drive on the prusa and auto leveling. But you can update the ender to have a lot of the same features if not better than the Prusa and in the end it comes out cheaper.
The ender requires alot of tuning but once you get it where u want it's killer. The prussa works out of the box though which is nice
Great video! I was just wondering what printer you would recommend for a first buy?
Start with Ender 3 v2 and then if it grows out your requirements (for example you want to try Nylon, PC..) move to Prusa.
@@MyTechFun also the Prusa is great if you want industrial grade reliability and no longer want to level every print manually. Probably right now the Prusa Mini+ is the best low cost starter printer. Great video btw!
@@MyTechFun To get the ender to print Nylon, just replace the hotend with an all metal one - like the swiss one, and put the printer in an enclosure. That prevents you from getting poisoned by the PTFE outgassing. The only remaining issue is whether your bed really will get hot enough. An enclosure should help/solve this issue.
@@rdh2059 Agreed, one also needs to remember that they could buy the Ender, upgrade to a direct extruder, a different hot end, add the Creality auto leveling kit, and have enough money left over to buy and upgrade a second unit for less than one assembled Prusa machine.
I am not sure right now, not remember exactly, but I think that the TMC2208 have not the possibility to detect collisions (Stall-detection?). I think the Prusa uses TMC2130.
Correct, the Mk3s uses the 2130.
Yes, correct, I checked. Thanks. I will upload the description and spec table with that info.
I'm building a Bear 2.1 by myself, collecting parts all over but mostly from China. I've already spent more over the price of the Ender just for the BMG SLS clone and Duet 2 Wifi/PanelDue alone, not mention $150 on the LDO stepper motors (tall Z and 0.9 step XY). No idea how could build a decent printer under $300.
for kg traction....prusa and ender have egual flow? 0.9-1-1.2 is different, how are setup?
Thanks for a very useful comparison. I considered both printers and finally chose a Prusa MK3S+ kit; of course it was much more money, but the overall flexibility and solid design and quality seemed superior to the Ender.
Just ordered a prusa to start out on with PC and PETG. Any advice or tricks you learned so far?
@@joshuarodriguez9983 Start with simple models from Thingiverse. Also go through several tutorials on youtube. You will be an expert in no time!
@@ChickensAndGardening thank you for the info 🙏
@@joshuarodriguez9983 no problem! Also I forgot to mention - get on TinkerCad and learn how to make your own models. It's free, easy to use, and there are lots of good tutorials.
It's not.
It seems like it is but people are printing the same exact quality things on both and that's all the proof you really need.
stock ender 3 v2 will happily do 120c bed and 300 mm/s travel moves at 2000 mm/s^2 accelerations. i did a multi hour print with the bed at 120 once with no observer damage to anything it was 100% fine. 2000 mm/s^2 accelerations on the y axis might cause issues with vibration slowly shifting the bed level knobs and eccentric wheel nuts so you gotta keep an eye on those but otherwise it seems to have no problem.
Mine goes up to 110C bed temp, but only in settings, I didn't measure it so far.
@@MyTechFun this is with custom firmware. stock doesnt allow bed above 110 and accelerations above 1000 mm/s^2. also some earlier v4.2.2 boards like mine somehow support linear advance if you enable it in firmware even though the stepper drivers technically shouldnt.
I thought the prusa mk3s used tmc2130 stepper drivers. Did they change to cheaper ones?
Yes, I corrected that in the table, but I can't change the video. mytechfun.com/video/61
Exellent review much appreciated
If you "have to" have perfection in a dumbed down easiest way possible, don't mind spending upwards of around $1000+ (pre-built) and don't mind a long delivery wait, then go with a Prusa MK3S (direct drive) Or even less for a Prusa Mini... but this is also bowden tube setup like a Ender.
You can get the same results with a Ender as a MK3S, but extra money and work involved... (i.e. mainboard that supports linear advance, direct drive conversion, flex steel sheet etc etc) but some do not mind doing so.
Most are quite happy with Ender results as is... but expandability is there.
All I've upgraded on my Ender 3 v2 is my extruder, a Capricorn tube, all metal hot end and a creality enclosure. My upgrades cost $120. I make dimensionally accurate prototypes and sell products online and I've only been printing for 2 months. Direct drive is completely unnecessary. So is a steel flex plate. I love the glass bed on my ender. I don't need glue, tape or baby tears to get it to stick. Even ASA. Comes right off after the bed cools too.
I almost fell for that nonsense and wasted an extra $600 on a Prusa for no reason. I even just had a pre-order for a mini until I watched videos of people saying it needed upgrades still, when everyone was initially claiming it was ready to go out of the box.
3D printing just isn't for some people and they give out bad advice based off their limited skills and they discourage people, but the fact of the matter is I haven't had to tinker with my Ender anymore than a new computer I just built.
Prints look the same as the prusa. Case closed for me. I'm planning to buy three more e3v2's. I might even get clones.
good work
if one would upgrade ender 3 v2 with direct drive feeder and hotter tip, then using other filaments (nylon, abs etc) is possible, correct ? thx for sharing, have fun, aum, s love nia
For nylon on ender3 you need: all metal hotend (for higher temperatures), enclosure, filament dryer. Direct drive is recommended for TPU. If you upgrade to direct drive, you need dual Z axis too.
For a printer that's $1000 using zip ties to hold the rods is unbelievable. OK for a prototype but for the mk3. Would cost Pennies to print brackets that fully enclose the rod ends.
I agree. I can see, that new MK3s+ has some new holders, not ZIP ties.
Some things I didn’t notice. Prusa uses a geared extruder which offers a significant improvement over the ender extruder design. The prusa lets you define 8 bed sheet presets. You don’t need to redo live z every time. just change the preset. The prusa lets you turn on 49 point bed leveling. It’s very fast and it measures each of the 49 points 3 times. Thats ~150 measurements to level the bed! The reason the prusa encoder isn’t always accurate is the 8 bit board. They could spend time improving that portion of code but realistically they are going 32 bit soon and focus on 8 bit problems are low on the list. Max layer heights don’t really count. Max heights are based on nozzle size. Prusa lists 0.35 which is quite high. Ender lists 0.4 which is just foolish to suggest for new users. I feel you should also consider how many and how often firmware updates come from each company. I also think you should consider the number of profiles which come with each printer. Anyways I liked your video. I didn’t see anything which appeared biased so in all fair.
So spending 3 times as more for auto bed levelling. Hahahah.
@@theshadowman1398 Prusa autoleveling, atleast in my experience, is crazy accurate, nothing like any printer I worked with.
@@lelboi3557
I spent in total 2 minutes to level the bed on my ender 3 pro and never had a failed print. So again. Why would I pay 3 times the price for an utterly simple feature ?
@@theshadowman1398 You don't have to, if it works for you, that's great.
@@theshadowman1398 Every plate bends while heating. So leveling consist of two parts: 1. Adjusting height and tilt. Needs only a few minutes. 2. Compansate the bending of the bed. Needs much more time.
So you might be lucky having a bed thats mostly flat on the bed temperature you use most (not in case on my 3 Ender3/3pro). Or you use a heavy glas on top (problematicly on a y-moving bed design). Thats simply luck, quality control of Creality do not garanty a flat bed on the temperature you use your bed.
The bed have two functions:
1.) Holding of the printed object. If you do not compensate for the bending of the bed, you often get away with it. The lines on the bottom might variate in thickness on bigger objects, but adheason is fine.
2.) Creating the bottoms surface/texture. If you do not compensate for the bending of the bed, this is the problematic point. Of course, if you mostly print statues or so, that does not matter at all. But if you print objects bottom-down, like electronic cases, this is definitly not so nice. On a mk3s on a textured spring steel its quite hard to see any lines at all; on a smoth sheet you see all lines with constant thickness.
So depending what you want to print, it makes a great difference.
Also the price of an mk3s and an Ender 3 differs not by a factor of 3 but only about 20-30%. The mk3s is open source. If you buy from Prusa, you pay a lot for quality control and service. Which is quite relevant mostly for professional users. If you buy from others like Fysetc, you might have some problems (quality fluctuation) like on every other Chineese product. For exemple a PTFE heatbreak instead of full metal and/or bad quality bearings. But even replacing the bad parts, you get an mk3s from Fysetc for about 300€ with all the advantages from a Prusa.
@GrayBeard3d The extruder from the mk3(s) is not "geared", as the first Bondtech gear for moving filament is directly mounted on the motor. It is Dual Drive. "Geared" would mean the force increasing by gearing down between motor and filament gears, like on the Bondtech BMGs. Actually I changed all my mk3s to a geared printhead (Bondtech upgrade for mk3s in the open source version from thinkiverse)
This is how reviews should be done! However, I think that we should also keep in mind that the Prusa MK3S is 3 years old now and the Ender 3V2 is lile 3 months old! The new Prusa machine, whenever it is announced and released, will probably have everything the Ender has and more!
Yes, even Prusa Mini has new board and better display for example. I am waiting to see Prusa MK4 or maybe Prusa XXL ;-)
@@MyTechFun I can't wait to see those too! Unfortunately, I don't think it will be this year.
Aby to jen nebyla cena.
Nice comparison. In Brazil Ender 3 is way more used, that leads us to question why outside Prusa is so more popular.
Probably one of the reason is that Prusa is located in CZ (Europe). Maybe expensive/slow shipping.
It is popular because it's an out of the box no-brainer printer.
The funny thing is that in CZ, PL, SK it's not popular at all as it's simply waaaay too expensive (im from PL).
Most people here preffer ender3, sidewinder x1 or sapphire pro.
Speaking of multiple Ender 3 v2's vs a single Prusa i3 MK3S - you said: "They will do the job much faster ...". Actually the Prusa prints the same model faster than the Ender 3 v2 from my experience, and has fewer failed prints. So in real world examples, you might find that overall, the actual output (volume of successful parts printed) may be higher with the Prusa, even if you have multiple Ender 3 v2's vs. a single Prusa. YMMV
That's completely subjective based on settings, and either way I completely disagree.
With the all metal hot end and all metal extruder I print 150 mm/s on my Ender 3v2 all day. If you're printing quality and you're doing production you're not printing at that speed anyway. Most people print 80 mm/s on the prusa. Which the Ender can do like a walk in the park. With Jyers or Klipper it's even better. I can print all the same materials as well and I don't need their customer service cause I know how to fix my own things, but regardless there's endless documentation and how-to's online for the Ender.
And I saved $400.
Edit: Any failed prints I've ever had on my Ender 3v2 was due to design errors. If you know how to set up a 3d printer you won't have any failed prints. It's completely user error. More beginners by the Ender that's why you think there's more issues with it. In the right hands there's no issues with it whatsoever.
In the 9 months that I've owned my Ender 3v2 I've only had three failed prints and that was in the beginning when I was learning how to use a 3D printer. Now with the CRtouch and Jyers firmware I just hit print and walk away.
@@dangerous8333 A few thoughts:
1) Note my use of "might" and YMMV
2) "And I saved $400." Is that inclusive of the cost of the upgrades you made to the Ender3 v2, and the time you spent researching those upgrades, installing them, and then calibrating/fine tuning? The Prusa operates well without the need for any upgrades.
3) If one is a tinkerer, then the Ender3 v2 may be exactly what you need. If you want something to print well "out of the box" (which I admit is a bit of a laugh, as I purchased my Prusa as a kit, and it was one of the most onerous assembly jobs I've encountered for a 3d printer; the Ender3 v2 was comparatively easy to assemble), then the Prusa IMHO is more likely what you're looking for.
4) Prusa machines are expensive; no argument there. If you are willing to invest the time and money on upgrades, you can definitely bring an Ender3 v2 to where it approximates the capabilities of the Prusa.
5) Agree with your point about the warranty; that's valuable for some, but for those who prefer to troubleshoot/fix things themselves, spending the extra money for the warranty doesn't make sense.
6) Both Prusa and Ender v3 have a huge user community. The Ender3 community, in my experience, focuses on how to make the printer a better machine (or how to deal with problems/issues with the machine). The Prusa community, on the other hand, focuses more on what they've created using their machine. The Ender3 community tends to fits the joke punch line of 3d printer owners who spend all their time printing parts for their 3d printer.
I have a Prusa, an Ender 3 v2, and a SnapMaker 2 A350. The Prusa is my go to machine, with the SnapMaker coming in 2nd and the Ender3 v2 3rd (though better than my previous machines - a Folgertech and an FLSun Delta printer).
can you print planes in 3d lab print in ender 3 v2?
Anet A8 still on rank #4 xD
Great little printer it was..
I was really hoping the Ender would come out better. I guess you get what you pay for.
I've never been a fan of the plastic printed parts of the Prusa. I'm concidering a Prusa Mini+ for myself, especially after seeing what the Ender 3 did. Have you ever tried the Ender 5? Do you know how that compares?
I don't have Ender 5 (yet). I got a lot of request for Ender 5 and Prusa Mini comparisons (but not with each other). Maybe in 2021 ;-)
Some additional facts... The Prusa I3 MK3S latest firmware has the ability to store first level calibration on multiple steel sheets. You can change a sheet, select that one from your saved list, and not worry about redoing first level calibration. Another important issue, on the X and Y axes, the Prusa has bearings riding directly on hardened steel rods. These will usually last a long time. The Ender 3 V2, like the Ender 3, and many other creality printers, uses plastic (neoprene?) wheels, which need checked to make sure they are at the proper tightness regularly. Printing High Temp materials with the Ender 3 is actually dangerous. The PTFE tube goes directly down to the nozzle, so the tube gets hot! It starts outgassing toxic gas which is fatal to birds at around 245c. At 255c, it supposedly starts outgassing this toxic gas which can be damaging to humans... Please be careful with the Creality printers which use the original hotend with high temp materials!
I love the glass bed on my Ender. Print pops right off. Don't need glue or anything. My Ender 3 v2 Prints PETG, ASA and ABS perfectly fine with a $10 all metal hot end. All I've upgraded is my extruder, a Capricorn tube, all metal hot end and a creality enclosure. My upgrades cost less than $100. I make dimensionally accurate prototypes and sell products online and I've only been printing for 2 months. My BR/CR touch takes care of bed calibration so that's not an issue either.
I’m gonna get both eventually which one should I get first?
If assembled, then Prusa. If Prusa Kit, then start with Ender3V2 (or maybe better Ender3 S1)
I've seen plastic brackets holding stepper motors warp from heat.
It's sad that prusa hasn't managed to reduce costs yet
By the way the plastic parts are actually 3d printed parts so it won't be to hard to replace if you break a piece as you can just print a new one.
Yes, but print them before they breaks (if you have only one 3D printer)