You used red gasket silicone on the float bowls? Really? That was a mistake you never will do again im sure. Oil sure, anyplace else, sure. But for float bowls no 100% . You will soon have to,pick out the gasket sement from yiur jets.
Yes, that was a fast fix as I wanted to test the engine out. Later on I had to reopen and clean the carb again so I got rid of that sealant. On the white bike where I cleaned the 2 carbs, you can see that I did not put anything else there. Thanks for the comment
Handyman, you lost me once I saw you spinning a drill bit into the float needle seats, that was like watching a horror movie. Also you didn't seperate the carbs and replace the o-rings on the ends of the fuel and vapor transfer tubes as those o-rings do become hard, brittle and cracked and leak, not worth the risk and labor removing the carbs a second time which will be required anyway after the carb cleaner spraying has attacked the rubber air cut off diaphragm turning it into sticky jelly then failure. Seperated carbs the only way to get access to the air cut off diaphragm. Spraying all the passages also checking the very small drilled holes passages entering the throat of the carb body checking for small ROUND STREAMS of cleaner vs a slightly restricted or plugged by crap causing fanned out spraying streams these very tiny passages later not allowing the carb to function properly. Didn't see extra attention to the emulsion tubes with their tiny cross drilled holes known to get plugged up very easily causing rihhing issues. Didn't see your flat level check both floats at each carb being identical as most times they end up twisted, one side too low or too high while the other side at spec. The bridge or "U" type of float checking tool best made as adjustble allowing exactly 18 or 20mm held up checking both floats at each carb. Easy to make tool out of aluminum like seen in the Honda $ervice Manuals. It's all in the little details allowing for a smooth ideling and running engine provided valves were set first, timing strobe checked initial and full advance. Machined alloy metal surfaces cleaned by plastic or wood scrapers softer than the carb alloy along with any aluminum and magnesium machined engine parts. Razor blades gouging machined surfaces is a sign of needless abused machinery......~~=o&o>.......
Thank you for the comment. The video is actually from second time I have disassembled the carbs like about a week apart from the first one where I changed all the seals except the air cut off valve which I changed later as well. Most of the work was done on the first disassembly but I did not record that part. The drill bit was to get rid of hard gunk and don't worry there was nearly no pressure at all so no material would get removed or seat damaged. Actually it worked well for me as I had new valves but it was still leaking a bit. After doing that was fixed. I did not have the tool for flat level check so I used a caliper. I still have to buy necessary equioment for maintaining this bike. I have just got it and there is still many things I want to rebuild. For now I just wanted to know that the engine will run as it was in a really bad shape
You used red gasket silicone on the float bowls? Really? That was a mistake you never will do again im sure. Oil sure, anyplace else, sure. But for float bowls no 100% . You will soon have to,pick out the gasket sement from yiur jets.
Yes, that was a fast fix as I wanted to test the engine out. Later on I had to reopen and clean the carb again so I got rid of that sealant. On the white bike where I cleaned the 2 carbs, you can see that I did not put anything else there. Thanks for the comment
Handyman, you lost me once I saw you spinning a drill bit into the float needle seats, that was like watching a horror movie.
Also you didn't seperate the carbs and replace the o-rings on the ends of the fuel and vapor transfer tubes as those o-rings do become hard, brittle and cracked and leak, not worth the risk and labor removing the carbs a second time which will be required anyway after the carb cleaner spraying has attacked the rubber air cut off diaphragm turning it into sticky jelly then failure. Seperated carbs the only way to get access to the air cut off diaphragm.
Spraying all the passages also checking the very small drilled holes passages entering the throat of the carb body checking for small ROUND STREAMS of cleaner vs a slightly restricted or plugged by crap causing fanned out spraying streams these very tiny passages later not allowing the carb to function properly. Didn't see extra attention to the emulsion tubes with their tiny cross drilled holes known to get plugged up very easily causing rihhing issues.
Didn't see your flat level check both floats at each carb being identical as most times they end up twisted, one side too low or too high while the other side at spec. The bridge or "U" type of float checking tool best made as adjustble allowing exactly 18 or 20mm held up checking both floats at each carb. Easy to make tool out of aluminum like seen in the Honda $ervice Manuals.
It's all in the little details allowing for a smooth ideling and running engine provided valves were set first, timing strobe checked initial and full advance.
Machined alloy metal surfaces cleaned by plastic or wood scrapers softer than the carb alloy along with any aluminum and magnesium machined engine parts. Razor blades gouging machined surfaces is a sign of needless abused machinery......~~=o&o>.......
Thank you for the comment. The video is actually from second time I have disassembled the carbs like about a week apart from the first one where I changed all the seals except the air cut off valve which I changed later as well. Most of the work was done on the first disassembly but I did not record that part. The drill bit was to get rid of hard gunk and don't worry there was nearly no pressure at all so no material would get removed or seat damaged. Actually it worked well for me as I had new valves but it was still leaking a bit. After doing that was fixed. I did not have the tool for flat level check so I used a caliper. I still have to buy necessary equioment for maintaining this bike. I have just got it and there is still many things I want to rebuild. For now I just wanted to know that the engine will run as it was in a really bad shape