I had to shorten mine a ton to fit a 1/28 Avenger monster truck body (the old '57 Chevy style) What I did was pretty simple, I also added rear steer to it, if you remove the links, driveshaft and axle from the front of the c10/ jeep, it shortens the rear of the deadbolt/ betty chassis perfectly... this setup is roughly 18mm shorter in wheelbase than the original deadbolt wheelbase. The only drawback some folks may have with doing this my way is the upper Y link in the rear. I personally have never had an issue with not using the 4 link setup though and obviously you can still do this method with a stock rear axle. It also keeps the proper geometry for the pinion angle on the diff
Shouldn't you shorted the upper linkage too? Otherwise it will rotate the axle.
that a good looking truck🍺
That truck looks awesome, great video my rc friend 💪😀👍
So I picked up a 1/25th set and need to do this to my c10 chassis, it's basically the opposite of a LWB swap? 😅
I had to shorten mine a ton to fit a 1/28 Avenger monster truck body (the old '57 Chevy style) What I did was pretty simple, I also added rear steer to it, if you remove the links, driveshaft and axle from the front of the c10/ jeep, it shortens the rear of the deadbolt/ betty chassis perfectly... this setup is roughly 18mm shorter in wheelbase than the original deadbolt wheelbase.
The only drawback some folks may have with doing this my way is the upper Y link in the rear. I personally have never had an issue with not using the 4 link setup though and obviously you can still do this method with a stock rear axle. It also keeps the proper geometry for the pinion angle on the diff
The axial before is 130mm what is it shorter
What mm wheelbase body was it???
see my comment above on an easy method to shorten the deadbolt