The staged intro with the manifolds and y pipe coming out in one piece made me chuckle a bit, but letting the contaminated oil seep everywhere in the valley made me rage. 6/10 would watch again. A++++
One thing to note about the term “off-road use only” is that the intent although not specified is to mean at least in the case of things involving emissions (aside from light) that you are not on a road, this includes private roads, however you could generally take it to mean not for prolonged use or use in the load range that typically engages that item, so aside from the law getting in the way you could use it on a road if the vehicle was moved to that road not under its own power, or in an area directly adjacent to a road like a rail for service, it ironically would be inadvisable to use it to drive a long distance along a railway even though that is very much not a road. Most other “off-road use only” items typically say that due to safety not being guaranteed or a general lack of safety for others (it’s pretty rare for a product to be generally unsafe to the user of it during all usage cases)
need to check for a bent connecting rod since it looks like water hydrolocked at least one cylinder based on the broken push rods...also I would not use those cheap head gaskets, always use OEM gaskets. or Felpro...
Speaking of that 4 headlight system, I’ve had a ford thunderbird that had four headlights and it worked like that but they all came on with you pulled the switch back for flash to pass, just not when actually switched (ford has a three position switch with one position being momentary unlike the foot switch or GM switch that acts like a click pen
Just a heads up, it’s not a re-burn of the unburnt gasses, as nice as actually being able to do that would be (for fuel, emissions, and whatever else would benefit), what actually happens is similar to how it works in a gasoline engine just without increasing the volumetric efficiency (no throttle to restrict things anyway. That real purpose is to cool the combustion gases to avoid the production of nitric oxides, which form nitric acid, that acid actually eats metal and paint pretty easily among many other things and if everyone did nothing to avoid producing them and everyone drove everywhere they went we would already have to make suits of materials that could withstand those acids if it ever rained or possibly even in situations of high humidity, the vehicles would likely only last 3-5 years before they were inoperable no matter what type (even electric) due to the aggressive atmosphere. and the added requirements for building materials would put a higher value on covered structures to the point that very few would be able to afford a garage but even if they could it is possible that restrictions on the material would be put in place or simply supply issues would make them prohibitive
Based on a different video of people who were also against the egr, the high heat can and typically does separate out the additives from the coolant, if that’s the case then it is possible for the egr cooler to cause the oil cooler to fail. Personally if I assume that to be true and assume that the turbulence of the pump may mix it back in, then the best method if you want to keep an egr system is to do an oil cooler “delete” and thus take that out of the cooling system (it switches to an oil to air cooler) and make sure the output of the coolant is going into the water pump and make sure the other end is an input, even manufacturers can get confused and put a system on two inputs or two outputs because of the way certain pumps work and the 6.0 has one of the worst designs for getting that confused… one large question then becomes which way do you want the coolant to flow relative to the exhaust? Since having the output be closest to the exhaust input can possibly damage the pump, whereas putting the relatively cooler coolant into the hot side first could just cause cracking anyways
Welded egr is better. Taking the bellows out of the passenger side will cause the pipe to crack. If the exhaust is solid something has to give due to hear expansion. Plus a welded egr will still pass a visual emission test.
I would not put that engine back together - needs a full short block rebuild in addition to heads. Needs new oil cooler and updated HPOP and fittings. That engine will fail within 6 months of the job.
So you didn’t flush the system before the new cooler install? So basically it most likely plugged up within a couple thousand miles, if that. No updated stand pipes, dummy plugs or STC fitting? Or drain tube for turbo? I understand you guys are just doing what you’re told, but this show is to help people lol. Can’t help anyone when you do it half assed.
First off, weld shut the cooler and re install, avoid breaking the exhaust bellows. Next if it's that bad, it will need more than what you did. Sorry, but you guys are not 6 liter techs.
great video, but no way I'd of pulled that engine oil revivor screen with out sucking all that oil/water out to see what pieces of debris was down there and might fall down in line to be sucked into the HPOP and clog stuff....
Putting a bandaid on cancer patient not a long time fix engine clearly hydrolocked with bend valve train will come a part in couple months this engine needs complete rebuild not a 6.0 special heads + studs and legs delete too late for that
Wow, that's why I stay very far away from diesel pick up trucks I prefer gasoline engines on everything and never have to go through all off that none sence
traxxasguy1777 If they’re modified I agree but not on a stock truck. I have a buddy who has a Cummins with bigger injectors bigger pump and bigger turbo and even getting on it I’ve never seen his go above 1100
The staged intro with the manifolds and y pipe coming out in one piece made me chuckle a bit, but letting the contaminated oil seep everywhere in the valley made me rage. 6/10 would watch again. A++++
One thing to note about the term “off-road use only” is that the intent although not specified is to mean at least in the case of things involving emissions (aside from light) that you are not on a road, this includes private roads, however you could generally take it to mean not for prolonged use or use in the load range that typically engages that item, so aside from the law getting in the way you could use it on a road if the vehicle was moved to that road not under its own power, or in an area directly adjacent to a road like a rail for service, it ironically would be inadvisable to use it to drive a long distance along a railway even though that is very much not a road. Most other “off-road use only” items typically say that due to safety not being guaranteed or a general lack of safety for others (it’s pretty rare for a product to be generally unsafe to the user of it during all usage cases)
need to check for a bent connecting rod since it looks like water hydrolocked at least one cylinder based on the broken push rods...also I would not use those cheap head gaskets, always use OEM gaskets. or Felpro...
Speaking of that 4 headlight system, I’ve had a ford thunderbird that had four headlights and it worked like that but they all came on with you pulled the switch back for flash to pass, just not when actually switched (ford has a three position switch with one position being momentary unlike the foot switch or GM switch that acts like a click pen
Just a heads up, it’s not a re-burn of the unburnt gasses, as nice as actually being able to do that would be (for fuel, emissions, and whatever else would benefit), what actually happens is similar to how it works in a gasoline engine just without increasing the volumetric efficiency (no throttle to restrict things anyway. That real purpose is to cool the combustion gases to avoid the production of nitric oxides, which form nitric acid, that acid actually eats metal and paint pretty easily among many other things and if everyone did nothing to avoid producing them and everyone drove everywhere they went we would already have to make suits of materials that could withstand those acids if it ever rained or possibly even in situations of high humidity, the vehicles would likely only last 3-5 years before they were inoperable no matter what type (even electric) due to the aggressive atmosphere. and the added requirements for building materials would put a higher value on covered structures to the point that very few would be able to afford a garage but even if they could it is possible that restrictions on the material would be put in place or simply supply issues would make them prohibitive
Based on a different video of people who were also against the egr, the high heat can and typically does separate out the additives from the coolant, if that’s the case then it is possible for the egr cooler to cause the oil cooler to fail. Personally if I assume that to be true and assume that the turbulence of the pump may mix it back in, then the best method if you want to keep an egr system is to do an oil cooler “delete” and thus take that out of the cooling system (it switches to an oil to air cooler) and make sure the output of the coolant is going into the water pump and make sure the other end is an input, even manufacturers can get confused and put a system on two inputs or two outputs because of the way certain pumps work and the 6.0 has one of the worst designs for getting that confused… one large question then becomes which way do you want the coolant to flow relative to the exhaust? Since having the output be closest to the exhaust input can possibly damage the pump, whereas putting the relatively cooler coolant into the hot side first could just cause cracking anyways
EGR should’ve never been put on any Diesel ever. Causes nothing but problems.
Welded egr is better. Taking the bellows out of the passenger side will cause the pipe to crack. If the exhaust is solid something has to give due to hear expansion. Plus a welded egr will still pass a visual emission test.
That's exactly what I did. I have emissions in my state and my truck passes fine.
I would not put that engine back together - needs a full short block rebuild in addition to heads. Needs new oil cooler and updated HPOP and fittings. That engine will fail within 6 months of the job.
And oring the heads also weld that egr shut. Those junk deletes always leak
So you didn’t flush the system before the new cooler install? So basically it most likely plugged up within a couple thousand miles, if that. No updated stand pipes, dummy plugs or STC fitting? Or drain tube for turbo? I understand you guys are just doing what you’re told, but this show is to help people lol. Can’t help anyone when you do it half assed.
Do you have a link for that kit? I can’t find it anywhere.
First off, weld shut the cooler and re install, avoid breaking the exhaust bellows. Next if it's that bad, it will need more than what you did. Sorry, but you guys are not 6 liter techs.
I've seen other videos with the Ram delete it seems a lot easy. Do you guys have a version with Ram?
So I’m watching your video & how much would something like this cost, heads, the kit and Labor cost ?
great video, but no way I'd of pulled that engine oil revivor screen with out sucking all that oil/water out to see what pieces of debris was down there and might fall down in line to be sucked into the HPOP and clog stuff....
I'll only get a diesel truck if I'm doing hot shots but I would go with the Cummins
The ac sealer is a big mistake
Why not just buy another EGR cooler. Easier
Tie is dumbest comment I’ve seen in here lol why would you put the another egr cooler in when that’s the main issue with the 6.0
Putting a bandaid on cancer patient not a long time fix engine clearly hydrolocked with bend valve train will come a part in couple months this engine needs complete rebuild not a 6.0 special heads + studs and legs delete too late for that
Yep! It's illegal.
Oh dear not that..
Simple solution: get the 7.3. That 6.0 is junk.
These guys are a joke . How do u not check or even mention bent rods , and that a.c sealer like wth . This is nuts
The problem is circled on that grill and the tail gate so everybody will learn
Wow, that's why I stay very far away from diesel pick up trucks I prefer gasoline engines on everything and never have to go through all off that none sence
Exhaust temps of well over 1000 degrees? You don’t see that unless a truck is in a regen and these don’t do that...
Hunt Guy wrong. EGTs on any tunes diesel can be above 1200 F. Even higher in a hot boy 6.0
traxxasguy1777 If they’re modified I agree but not on a stock truck. I have a buddy who has a Cummins with bigger injectors bigger pump and bigger turbo and even getting on it I’ve never seen his go above 1100
1000 degrees isn’t that hot for egts at the manifolds on a Diesel. Pull a hill with a load and it’ll go over that stock
Do not DELETE the EGR. Delete the FORD. They are JUNK.
If you want to listen to these dummies don't expect your 6.0 to survive.
Obviously sponsored by the company that sells the kit.
The 6.0 was/is a POS. Ford should be ashamed. Cummins makes the only real diesel for a pickup truck. GM and Ford are just posing.
Please my 7.3 will out do any P.O.S Cummings say when and where boy
@@mattsprayberry0 you tell him 🤣
The best way to fix it is buy a ram.
That oil cooler is trash
Wtf that engine looks like trash!