Turning an Existing Light Switch into an MQTT Connected Smart Switch using a Sonoff Mini
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video we use the Sonoff Mini to convert a traditional light switch into a smart switch that can be controlled by my existing home automation system over MQTT using Node-RED. We will be using a Sonoff Mini R2 and flashing the Tasmota firmware onto it using the Sonoff's built in "DIY Mode" and then installing it behind a retractive switch to control some smart light bulbs where the power to the bulbs is switched by a secret key switch.
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Sonoff DIY template for Postman: gist.github.com/lukaskukacka/...
Guide for flashing Tasmota using Sonoff DIY: tasmota.github.io/docs/Sonoff...
Tasmota Configuration Commands: tasmota.github.io/docs/Commands/
/ camerongray1515
www.camerongray.me/
Chapters:
00:00 - Introduction
02:59 - Different Types of Light Switches
12:07 - Sonoff Mini Hardware Tour
20:02 - IMPORTANT - Safety Warning
22:50 - Flashing Tasmota using Sonoff DIY Mode
31:06 - Tasmota Configuration & Demonstration
43:19 - Installing the Sonoff Behind the Switch
47:22 - Testing it out
50:20 - Conclusion
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Purchasing through these affiliate links will not cost you any more money, however the commission earned significantly helps fund the production of videos on my channel. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Buy on Amazon UK (Affiliate):
- Sonoff Mini: amzn.to/3tqd1ID
- Preciva Ferrule Set: amzn.to/3riBHjv
Buy on Amazon US (Affiliate):
- Sonoff Mini: amzn.to/3nr6ZU2
- Preciva Ferrule Set: amzn.to/3fp8HRO
Excellent idea with using the key switches in a home setting. Enjoyed as always.
Very thorough and well explained. You've given me the confidence to implement the sonoff mini that's decorated the top of my desk for the last couple of weeks. As a bonus you introduced me to two tools, MQTT Explorer and Postman, which will be great aids. Well done.
I followed your procedures and used the tools you suggested and it worked exactly as described, including the problems following the tasmota ota install. But your video talked me through resetting it. I'm very pleased. Thank you.
This is an ideal solution. Easy to use switch without the faff plus and over ride in case of something going wrong. Love it.
This was a very good video and well explained. Thanks for sharing 👍🏽
Great work as always!
Got to be my favourite video of 2022, been looking for a solution like this for a while.👍
Well Done👏🏻 That was a really well presented video.
Love the video, I've been looking for a more elegant way to switch my lighting and this is an excellent solution. I learned some valuable tips regarding the configuration of Tasmota, Ive ordered a handful of Sonoff Minis to implement into my lighting. Reckon you could be convinced into make a video showing your Node-RED flow please? I'd really like to see how you got that side of things working.
Hey Cameron, i also found the MK grid retractives are tough to press. You can however make them easier by dismantling them and removing one of the springs, which leaves just one in place 😎 They come apart without too much difficultly.
Hi Cameron. Many thanks for this. What depth backbox did you need for this? I want to brief my architect client base to spec deep boxes, so a dimension would be helpful. Thanks
It's a 47mm box, wouldn't fancy fitting it in anything much shallower. Personally, unless a deeper box would require extra chasing of brickwork, I always just use 47mm boxes as standard.
Hi Cameron, do you know where you bought those flexible 600v-rated jumper cables? Been looking for something similar.
I really like this idea, but the need to have neutral at the switch makes it difficult, I don't know when practices changed, but the majority of systems I have seen have neutral at the ceiling rose and the switch just has a switch wire. I guess you could possibly put the Sonoff in the ceiling.
Thanks Cameron, really great info throughout, particular the half main voltage on the "low voltage" pins. I wouldn't have thought to check that and lots of other vids lead the viewer to believe that the grey ones are low as in 5v/3.3v dc. I had in mind using one of these for gas meter monitoring (reed switch counting) with custom firmware but now realise this is not the tool for the job.
I've tasmotised one of my miniR2's but need a no neutral mod or to use the R3mini with s-wave but not sure if ota script will support tasmota on the MiniR3 with the S-wave.
Also I like the idea of those multiple rocker switches. I have calex tuya lightbulbs (from tesco) which are dimmable and rgb so two rocker switches one for rgb cycling one for dimming and a simple switch for off. This is so kids can faff without having to use a phone / tablet.
Looks like a great solution; especially with the two position retractable switch. The only downside I can think of is not have additional buttons for colour temperature, but that's pretty minor.
When the times comes to fit out my whole house, I think I'll look for a smart switch with 4 buttons (on, off, colder, warmer)
Yeah, a button to change the colour temperature would be good - I used to use a previous setup with the two position retractive switch (hold to dim up/down if the lights are on then if the lights are off, hold down the top button to turn them on cool white, hold down the bottom to turn on a very dim, warm nightlight mode then click normally to turn on a regular warm white). Unfortunately the hardware I used in that project was discontinued before I could make the video on it. That said, I'm working on a project involving flashing open source firmware onto a cheap LCD smart switch to provide a full on-wall touch panel so stay tuned for that!
@@camerongray1515 that sounds really interesting, looking forward to that!
Do you experience some lets noise come from sonoff mini I'm not talk about sound from relay but something like electrical noise like sonoff is working / keeping connection to wifi and makes this noise
Great video as always! This is a very neat solution and I totally agree with you about not having to rely on voice assistants. Unfortunately, the wiring accessories at my house are BG Nexus Metal and they only have one retractive grid module available rated at 20A! My worry is that this will be even more difficult to press in than the MK offering. We already have the standard 20A DP grid switches in the kitchen, and you really have to apply force to switch them.
That's very true, suppose it might just be a case of buying a single module on its own to see how it feels. Not sure if it's the current rating or the fact they're DP that would make them stiff - My regular light switches use the MK 20A 2-way modules (just what was available) and they feel fine whereas the 20A DP switches I have are significantly stiffer.
Nice video, thanks
I've been installing sonoff TX touch switches throughout my house. (all tasmota)
I did consider sonoff minis or Shellys, but decided against them for two reasons:
1: The physical size, I'm not sure I'd fit them behind many of my switches - especially those with multiple gangs, so lots of wires already behind the switch.
2: Like you - I wouldn't like the switches being in the "wrong" position. With the touch switches there is no position, this is good in a way, but also I've found it a bit annoying that I have to look for where to touch rather than just reaching for the switch without looking and being able to turn them on/off, like when leaving a room I was so used to just mashing the top of the switches to be sure everything is off. The momentary switches are a good alternative to the touch switches in some cases, but you have no indicator to see if the switch is on/off. If the switch controls a light then this is fine, but I have some switches that control a fan. In this case you can't be sure you've turned it off without looking at the fan and seeing if it is slowing down.
The ultimate solution for me would be a physical switch like a standard light switch that would actually move position if the relay is toggled via MQTT or Alexa etc. ZERO loss of functionality from a standard light switch with the benefits of a smart switch.
Cameron, Another great video! Just curious, why did you go with the SONOFF MINI over a shelly device like the Shelly plus 1 or plus 1PM? I have the older MINI's and they worked great for 2 years controlling all my upstairs lighting, but they have all started dropping connection recently and don't want to reconnect to my Wi-FI. I have bought Shelly plus 1PM's to replace them, but initial testing has shown that the Shelly 1PM's do run hotter, but expect that's due to the power monitoring hardware in side them.
To be honest, it was purely due to the Sonoff being the first thing to come to mind, the Shellys do look interesting, might have a look at them in the future!
To be honest, it was purely due to the Sonoff being the first thing to come to mind, the Shellys do look interesting, might have a look at them in the future!
@@camerongray1515 LOL Thanks for your candid reply. I think both brands have great products and the Sonoff's are cheaper for sure. The R2 mini looks to be a considerable improvement over the original mini, I may get some of them to try out for myself as well.
Hi Cameron, Do you have the links to where you bought your faceplates and mk modules? have you ever used Shelley switch devices? thanks for your awesome videos, you have inspired me a lot with what I have done at my house.
They're from the MK Dimensions range then the modules are just standard MK Grid Plus modules. They're available from CEF and Rexel along with a few other wholesalers, just bear in mind that they're sold as 2 different parts so you need to buy the actual switch/socket itself in black or white and then separately buy the decorative cover in whichever finish you want (stainless steel, black plastic, white plastic, brass, bronze.etc) where each of these will also give a choice of a black or white surround. Best thing to look at is the PDF catalogue which gives all of the part numbers which you can then search for since some of the wholesaler websites are dreadful for browsing: buildings.honeywell.com/content/dam/hbtbt/en/documents/downloads/MK%20Dimensions%20brochure_UKMK432-0418-EN_FINAL.pdf.
As for the Shelley devices, I haven't used them yet but they look good, in hindsight I feel like the Shelley i3 would have been a better choice for this project so I might get a couple to test out in the future.
Shelly devices are nice too and natively support MQTT if you want to save flashing. I'm using them with Node RED to control my electric panel heaters 👍
Interesting, I'd heard of them but never knew they supported MQTT natively so went for the Sonoff since I knew they were flashable. Might take a look at the Shelly devices in the future.
@@camerongray1515 yep they're pretty good. Nice and compact and you get interesting energy monitoring data with them too 👍
@alanjrobertson how have you installed the shelly? Have you used a deeper box? Does the regs allow to install a shelly within the box?
Could retractive switches be used with existing smart lamps/bulbs without the need for a relay? i.e bypassing the switch to allow for constant power to the light but still allowing functionality on the switch? I think I've looked at too many resources and just got myself confused - was gonna bring an electrician in but need to understand what's required first so I can get what I need and explain properly what Im hoping to achieve
Excellent Video - Thanks
Have you considered swapping the Sonoff Mini out for the Zigbee version (Sonoff ZBMINI-L) to fit in with the rest of your lighting infrastructure?
I did look into that but for me I'm only really using Zigbee because at the time it was simply what was easily usable to get local control of light bulbs. It's also good for low power devices such as remotes - therefore I'm not too worried about it "fitting in." I considered the Zigbee model however the benefit of Tasmota is that I can configure it to decouple the relay from the switch input so I can use the switch as an input to the system but separately control the relay. As far as I'm aware, the Zigbee model can't do this so operating the switch will also control the relay. Not an issue in this particular setup as I'm not using the relay to switch anything (so it would just click when using the switch) but would be less flexible if I ever were to need the relay for something (for example if I were to deploy this for my bathroom - I'd need the relay to control the fan).
Nice video. I’m currently using Tuya with retractive switches which so far has worked perfectly, although I need to find a way to make the relay controllers respond to momentary instead of latching. I agree about the stiffness of MK switches. I went for click minigrid retractive in the end for the same reason.
I actually had Click Define accessories previously using their Minigrid switches and absolutely agree that the retractive switches were a lot nicer to use. Unfortunately I had an absolute nightmare where the inrush current from my AV setup (AV receiver, Mac Mini, Satellite box and Subwoofer) and office desk (Couple of monitors, laptop dock, couple of speakers and a standing desk PSU) was enough to weld the switch contacts on the sockets closed (would often weld the live and only switch the neutral). In fairness, Scolmore were excellent and allowed me to RMA all of the matching accessories I'd ordered and not just the faulty sockets. Replacing it with the MK stuff was very much a "play it safe" response, was torn between MK Dimensions and BG Screwless. Annoying since the Click stuff was really good value and was one of the best looking aesthetically options on the market I could find, might need to revisit in the future after testing them against high inrush current again.
Stiffness can be reduced by unclipping the front of the switch and removing one of the two springs. It’s a lot more bearable with just the one spring. I’ve done something similar but wired the momentary switch to an IKEA shortcut button.
Thanks, just tried removing a spring from one and it's made a massive difference! Think I might throw together a quick bonus video on how to do it! Also, amusing you say that about the IKEA smart switch, I actually had a setup using the centre off retractive switches wired up to a modified Tradfri dimmer (the one with the separate on and off buttons) and it worked great, set everything up to make a video of it, went on the IKEA website to find the pricing only to find they'd stopped selling the switch in the UK so I had to shelve the video 🤦♂️
This is an amazing video.. thanks. Forgive my noob question... how would the flashing be different for sonoff mini zigbee?
Thanks! Generally Tasmota is only designed for WiFi devices to make them work totally offline. With a Zigbee device you can just use the original firmware then connect it to a locally hosted Zigbee hub, I use Zigbee2MQTT running on a raspberry pi for this
hey, what module switches/faceplates do you currently recommend? been looking at MK grid, are they all much the same? will be standard white faceplates with either 1 or 2 modules (standard on/off switch and key switch)
My general recommendation is to match whatever you already have assuming you're happy with it since even with white accessories, there's variations between brands in terms of the shade of white and the side profile of the accessory. For example, I'm about to fit some key switches in a friend's new build house so I'm using the same Deta Slimline products that they already have throughout the rest of the house. If I have free rein to pick and I'm not matching anything existing I tend to stick with MK as a decent quality safe bet but there's plenty other options out there. Only downside I'd say with some grid systems (including MK) is that the two module grid plates have the screws positioned top and bottom which you may not like the look of. If you're using two gang plates you may want to consider either a brand that has screw covers/a screwless faceplate. Or you may want to look at something like Click Minigrid which has side mounted screws (I originally used this for my flat but had a nightmare with the socket switch contacts welding returned them and switched to MK)
@@camerongray1515 yeah the two module faceplate I had earmarked has the screws top and bottom which I originally didn’t notice.
The faceplates elsewhere are just bog standard “new build” white faceplates so nothing special (although a few are already covered up with Hue smart switches sitting over the top of them)
If it's a new build then you'll likely be able to identify what the existing ones are by the brand name on the inside of the faceplate. Most new builds I've seen are either Deta Slimline, Schneider Lisse or occasionally something from BG. As for covering them with hue switches, that could be a consideration as the MK key switches protrude slightly from the faceplate so you won't have a totally flat surface.
4:34 - just out of interest, has anyone looked at whether the other GPIO is adequately protected for being attached to a long wire to a switch? I have to be honest, I haven't even looked at how the "regular" one is protected - maybe the ESP8266 has something built in? Built-in pull up and a zener, or something like that?
The way I understood it, your switch is a *latching* switch rather than 2-way. And that's exactly what you want with your Sonoff Mini
5:05 in my case the switches around the house don’t match (the landing light switches are one type, the living room is a different type, and one of the bedrooms and the kitchen have a third type), so it wouldn’t be an issue for me
And the two way retractive switch (whatever it is called) looks like what the school i went to back in 2012 had, when they moved into the new building (the switches had separate “buttons” for on and off, as some of the switches would control only 1/3 of the lights in the room, while others would control ALL of the lights in the room (the switch by the door controlled all the lights, and the teachers desk switchs allowed the lights on the left and right to be toggled independently, in addition to turning them all on and off (the lights in the middle could only be turned on and off with all the others))
Is anybody able to link the white cable that’s been used? I have the link for the ferrule, but would like some of that cable. Kind regards
Did you ever find the white cable?
its just white single strand (probably 0,5mm²) flexible cable.
In Germany we would probably call it H05V-K 0,5mm²
Would be amazing to do this over zigbee instead of wifi...
Aren't S1 and S2 3.3v DC?
They're low voltage contacts in the sense that there is low (or maybe even zero) voltage between S1 and S2. However due to the power supply design there is 130v between either of the switch contacts and ground so it's critical that they are treated as essentially being live at mains potential
Never seen a key switch in the US
A lot of instructions. Be aware you are placing the SONOFF Mini in a metal enclosure. This will impede the WIFI range. A very thorough video could you post a tutorial I cannot read a lot of the screen typing well. Thanks
Gotta comment again wow your brilliant
It’s not compliant as it needs to be secondary clamped. You have to put it in a box which means it won’t fit behind the switch
Are you able to provide any more information on this, I'm not aware of any mention of "secondary clamping" in the UK wiring regulations that would prevent this being installed in this way without the Sonoff being in another enclosure. The only time I've heard the term "clamping" being used is in the context of clamping circuits in electronics but can't see how this would apply here.
@@camerongray1515 it needs to be secondary insulated, part of the CE/Uk regs. I know because I’ve just gone through the testing with our unit, and units like the Sonoff need to go into a box to make them legal
@@ianbrown3904 I mentioned this at 13:45 - You are correct that it cannot be safely used outside of an enclosure, however, in the actual installation it is installed inside the pattress box behind the switch which serves as the secondary enclosure. The sonoff is no less insulated than say the rear of the switches, the wago connectors or the single insulated wires that you'd also find in the pattress.
@@camerongray1515 not quite sure that’s correct, and the reason I know is that we had to go through safety testing our own device.
If the live comes out of the Sonos unit it means there is a live wire exposed, whether it’s behind something else or not. The regs say it’ should be contained by the secondary clamping and it is not touchable.
The Sonos unit would fail Uk safety testing, but maybe not German, which I find a bit of an anomaly.
I guess the real point is you are recommending something which is non compliant, an electrician would put it in a secondary box.
It literally is inside a secondary box - the switch pattress. This is exactly what an electrician would do with a device like this or other similar relay/switch module (e.g. Shelly, Fibaro, Rako.etc) By the same logic, if a live wire comes out of the back of the switch it's also as equally exposed. That is why the metal pattress is earthed - so that if a live wire comes out internally and touches the box, it'll trip a protective device rather than allow anything touchable (metal switch front plate or screws.etc) to become live. May I ask what your device that you're referring to is? Are you referring to a cord grip as "secondary clamping?" It likely depends on the intended environment for such a device - in this setting I'd argue that the sonoff is compliant because it literally is installed in an enclosure however it wouldn't be compliant if it were mounted say on a wall out in the open or floating loose in a wall or above a ceiling. The same could be said for the switch modules I'm using - they're totally compliant to be installed in a grid plate mounted to a pattress on the wall, but wouldn't be suitable to install as an inline switch on the flex of something like a lamp. As far as BS7671 goes, to the best of my knowledge, the main wording in relation to this sort of thing is along the lines of "access to live parts without the use of a tool" - in this situation there is no way someone could get to the sonoff or any live wires without at least a screwdriver. Here's an example of a similar form factor dimmer from Rako (a high end UK brand of lighting control) which they explicitly state is designed to mount inside a pattress and even show it in the instruction manual: rakocontrols.com/rmtpill/
Gotta comment again they got the TH-cam over there or it called BBCTube ? Used to love that show on the Telly you guys had Benny hill
Gotta comment again no way I’m watching this whole video only lasted like 2 minutes lots of ads mate anyways gonna throw a shrimp on the barbee for noon tea time god bless the queen mate Cheers
Speaking of cheers man when coach died it really upset me but later coach got his own show but it had a different actor
Please tell me you are not Australian..
you should have mentioned the Neutral to start with and most older Properties dont have a Neutral at the light switch only real new houses or recently Rewired houses have a Neutral at the switch! but then you wouldn't get 12 minutes and you won't get so much Revenue from TH-cam?
I can guarantee it wasn't some sort of conspiracy to get more revenue, my videos are totally unscripted and therefore it must have only occurred to me to mention the fact that it required a neutral at the time which I did. That said now that I think about it, if you were happy to use the Sonoff purely as a remote and have the light permanently wired on, you could adjust the wiring at the light fitting/ceiling rose/junction box to wire the light to be permanently on and then use the switch wire to carry a permanent live and neutral down to the switch for the Sonoff.
Gotta comment again feel like this is just an ad for the device w some kinda whacky DIY hack
Not an ad or in any way sponsored, this video was entirely my own project with hardware purchased by myself. If any of my videos contain any sponsored content or review samples, the nature of this is declared in the introduction.
Speak slower please.
who has Cameron in his mouth??...talk funny
Gotta comment again oh your in Europe with European brexit style electricity
Sorry I gotta comment again this is such a complicated solution throw your smart bulbs away instal a smart switch add the switch to google home Alexa whatever your good to go
I replied to your other comment, how would I adjust colour temperature, colours or dim individual bulbs if I replaced the smart bulbs and just used a smart switch, these switches control 9 downlights and 3 lamps in my living room and 6 downlights and 2 lamps in the bedroom, I want a lot more than just on off control of the downlights.
Smart switches are like 16 bucks smart bulbs are stupid
Depends what you're doing, I wouldn't want smart bulbs for on/off control (in that case I'd always just want a physical switch). I use smart bulbs so I can adjust the colour temperature, set them to RGB colours and dim them to different levels (for example my living room has 9 downlights, I like to have them set so the ones at the back of the room where the couch is are the brightest and they get progressively dimmer as they get closer to the TV).
What is with your sound, it sounds like you speed up your speach, very annoying, i had to quit watching, as you are also incomprensible with this method
It's not sped up, unfortunately I just talk fast and while I try to slow down on video, it's surprisingly difficult to do