A very good point that a lot of people forget is indeed the power consumption. Count the amount of wifi enabled home automation stuff and you will be surprised. I'm at around 20 by now without the Zigbee stuff. 20 x 0.5= 10 Watt of constant use which is 0,24KWh a day. Not a lot you might say but I know people with a lot more smart stuff in their house. Might be interesting comparing both wifi and Zigbee versions. There is one thing which they should add in the app and that is reception strenght. Switched a Tuya device over the weekend with a sonoff Mini and I seriously missed that in the settings. I have a mesh (mess) TP link system and I had the issue that some of them didn't connect to the closest AP (like 3 meters away) but took the one 2 floors down.
Nice Video. I have certianly noticed the amount of standy power that my automation devices use and the amount of button cell batteries that I go through each year. By the way if you do need to put two wires in a single terminal in the Sonoff device one good way is to use bootlace ferrules that are designed for two wires as the plastic part is wide enough to accomodate the insulation thickness of the two wires.
One day, I'll buy the crimper for ferules. hah, until then, I demand products to deliver enough terminals. Shelly was a much worse offender in that regards
I bought a 4 pack of Sonoff smart outlets from a local auction and one of them was DOA. Customer service was great and replaced the dead unit. Happy with that service.
I thought my dodgy ATX Computer power supply wired into some LED Strips and a couple of ESP32's was bad - LOL. The intro to this video was a bit of fun. :) The Itead Mini Extreme is really small. Nice to see the WiFi signal is pretty decent with it. I am a little concerned about heat long term and I am not fully trusting of the relay. I'd likely run it at half of its rated value at most. I love small IoT devices, don't get me wrong, I just feel packing things in so tightly is asking for trouble in the medium to longer term, even if it works well short term.
That's to be seen I guess. At the same time, they do make relays to spec. The inclusion of the thermal paste was a bit odd considering the whole thing is made of plastic, but at the moment the relay isn't heating up much.
Great video, thanks. Can you still use the switch when your phone (or different device) is connected to a different network than the sonoff switch itself. For example when the sonoff switch is connected to my home network and my phone is connected to 4G/5G and i want to be able to turn on/off the switch?
Thanks for the video. I have been considering on instaling one but was a bit concerned over its temperature with this being super small. Have you tested or notice any overheating or excess on this device that could pose a risk? Thanks!
Thanks helpful vid. As I have no experience with this product, could I get a little more help please?🤔 Here goes - I bought two Sonoff MiniR4 Extremes to play with. I thought I would connect a 240V load to one MiniR4 (#1), using a push button adjacent to trigger an "on" timer in this MiniR4 and operate the load. After time out, the load switches off. Second MiniR4 (#2) to act as a remote WiFi button to do the same function with the #1 MiniR4 timer/load, via the WiFi. Am I on the right track? How is the timer set up. Thanks
What you say it's possible and the 2nd switch could be "synced up" using automation panel in eWeLink app. Timers would be managed in the app as well as the device offers inching, timers and schedules in ewelink
The better part of the device consists of a... relay. The electronics is quite small so no room for further miniaturization unless using smaller relay for smaller amperage.
Considering the use for lights, 2-3A would be fine with me if they could make it even smaller. I cannot imagine anyone using whole 10A to drive their lights.
The instructions included are confusing or something is lost in translation. They talk about "strong" electricity and not connecting neutrals and earths to S1 or live, neutral and earth to S2. In their switch wiring diagrams, especially the last two using S2, isn't that what you are doing by connecting live to S2 through a switch? I wonder if they mean don't use S1 or S2 to supply power to the module? Any thoughts?
I'm sorry for the late reply. Basically, you want to use the drawn schematics :) these are much better to follow than written by their instructions. You want to connect Live to S1 if I remember correctly (I'm away from home) but the illustrations were the way to go
Still waiting for something actually "extreme" 😃 Looks like this is still too big to fit behind my wall switches. The typical wall switches in Denmark are actually a nice non-clumsy design, but with the external width about 5 cm (including frame), fitting more width than 3 cm on the inside is not realistic, and not a lot of depth either.
@@notenoughtech Well, the typical ceiling outlets has no more space, without a minor construction project. But some lamps do have room to mess around, especially when I avoid the old bulb form factor, which is just bad for IoT devices.
Most of my ceiling fittings have holes big enough to cram something behind the plasterboard. The plastic covers are usually just to hide the hole and associated wiring. Again standards vary from country to country
@@notenoughtech I have the same problem here in Germany, the zigbee relay is just to big to fit behind the switch. I want both functions: use the wallswitch and able to use switch the light via smarthome. I still haven't found a series of wallswitches which fit into my frames, as i have some double switches and some with plugs below it. Putting the the relay into the ceiling cover of my lamps is the same as using a smart bulb.
@@thomasfjen One potential strategy could be to tear out the wall switch to get room for a "smart" relay, and then cover with a battery Zigbee button, to manage actions via your smartphone backend.
@@notenoughtech Thanks for your reply, but it was my bad. I tried using a proximity sensor relay as a switch, but when turned off there is 5 volts so the mini always gets voltage and doesn't switch on or off.
As the product is purposly made for in-wall switching, dry contact are not a benefit in this scenario. For other applications, there are other choices from both Shelly and Sonoff brands (and others)
I was wondering if this device can be useful for me, I am trying to connect a photoelectric sensor to know if it is active or not, I meant I don't need to turn on/off, I just need to know the current status of the sensor then I can wire the logic to turn on/omaff a light by ewelink.
SONOFF ZBMINIL2 Questions.. Is it a good fit and will it work in these scenarios? Here is what I'm wanting to accomplish and hoping someone can tell me if this device will do that.. **Scenario 1:** Have a switch box that has a neutral wire. It turns my ceiling fan / light combo off/on.. I have a Smart Life universal wifi fan/light combo installed that I have in HA to control fan and lights. However, switch has to be on to do so.. I want to be able to control the fan/light via HA/Alexa regardless if the switch is in off/on position. **Scenario 2:** I have 3 switch boxes, all 3 way, that control our hallway lights. None have a neutral. Will this device provide HA on/off ability? If so, do I need to install 3 (one in each box)? **Scenario 3:** I have a switch box with no neutral. Just want HA to have ability to turn lights off/on. Also, for any of the scenarios that do work (if any), does the standard on/off toggle light switch work with them? Thanks!
Scenario 1 is ok as you will be able to use your switch for something else and keep fan/light on all the time. Scenario 2 depends on how it's all wired but if it's a loop (fed from one socket) then you need just one device. Scenario 3 as long as you use non neutral version should be fine
@@notenoughtech thanks for the reply!! So for scenario 1, what do you mean I’ll be able to use the switch for something else? Will the switch still turn the light / fan off as normal if it is on?
@@notenoughtech Thanks for the reply!! I tried installing “scenario 3” today. It’s not working how I expected but maybe it’s normal / how it works. I installed it and added it to HA. I was able to control it via HA but it had some pretty bad lag (but very well can be my zigbee network). I tried powering it on with HA and then while it was on I toggled the switch. It did turn off but in HA it still shows on. Is that expected? Thanks for the help. 
These little Chinese innocuous products are known as a sleeper cell or bot, leaving you and most of the free world exposed. I prefer buying the ones you can re-flash and set up your own personal server/control behind your firewall. As well you can access more features on the chipset, like input sensing (temp sensor etc) and not just using it for output control
If you ever try to write a firmware for ESP based device, you will know how much of a BS your statement is. These ICs are so limited in size, that tasmota have version cut in libraries as they wouldn't fit on the storage of ESP controllers. In the most grim scenario, assuming "sleeper" behaviour - it would report the state of the relay and maybe APR scan of your network without affecting its use. A malicious code could be sent via OTA, but that's so unlkely done by a IoT provider that I won't even go there. You are more likely to suffer from a personal hacker attack than a big company like ITEAD using your devices as a botnet network. The sole fact of how much effort it takes for a non cloud connected server (*aka us hacking these) to change the firmware tells you all about the operation.
A very good point that a lot of people forget is indeed the power consumption. Count the amount of wifi enabled home automation stuff and you will be surprised. I'm at around 20 by now without the Zigbee stuff. 20 x 0.5= 10 Watt of constant use which is 0,24KWh a day.
Not a lot you might say but I know people with a lot more smart stuff in their house. Might be interesting comparing both wifi and Zigbee versions. There is one thing which they should add in the app and that is reception strenght. Switched a Tuya device over the weekend with a sonoff Mini and I seriously missed that in the settings. I have a mesh (mess) TP link system and I had the issue that some of them didn't connect to the closest AP (like 3 meters away) but took the one 2 floors down.
You are right these add up. Running 50W yearly const you about 150£ and that's significant
Nice Video. I have certianly noticed the amount of standy power that my automation devices use and the amount of button cell batteries that I go through each year. By the way if you do need to put two wires in a single terminal in the Sonoff device one good way is to use bootlace ferrules that are designed for two wires as the plastic part is wide enough to accomodate the insulation thickness of the two wires.
One day, I'll buy the crimper for ferules. hah, until then, I demand products to deliver enough terminals. Shelly was a much worse offender in that regards
I bought a 4 pack of Sonoff smart outlets from a local auction and one of them was DOA. Customer service was great and replaced the dead unit. Happy with that service.
I'm pleaseed to hear it
I thought my dodgy ATX Computer power supply wired into some LED Strips and a couple of ESP32's was bad - LOL. The intro to this video was a bit of fun. :)
The Itead Mini Extreme is really small. Nice to see the WiFi signal is pretty decent with it. I am a little concerned about heat long term and I am not fully trusting of the relay. I'd likely run it at half of its rated value at most. I love small IoT devices, don't get me wrong, I just feel packing things in so tightly is asking for trouble in the medium to longer term, even if it works well short term.
That's to be seen I guess. At the same time, they do make relays to spec. The inclusion of the thermal paste was a bit odd considering the whole thing is made of plastic, but at the moment the relay isn't heating up much.
Great video, thanks.
Can you still use the switch when your phone (or different device) is connected to a different network than the sonoff switch itself.
For example when the sonoff switch is connected to my home network and my phone is connected to 4G/5G and i want to be able to turn on/off the switch?
Hi Mat,
thanks.
As this is also a Ewelink capable device, it might be worth trying an OTA update with an adapted script of Nicolas for ESP32 devices.
I will bear that in mind. Hopefully we dont have to resolve to soldering:)
Slightly off the topic of this video but, what type of wifi mesh system d you use?
What would you recommend?
Love your videos!
Hello, I would like to know if the physical connection between Lin and S1 in the device itself is the same as in the ZBmini L?
Thanks for the video. I have been considering on instaling one but was a bit concerned over its temperature with this being super small. Have you tested or notice any overheating or excess on this device that could pose a risk? Thanks!
Thanks helpful vid. As I have no experience with this product, could I get a little more help please?🤔
Here goes - I bought two Sonoff MiniR4 Extremes to play with. I thought I would connect a 240V load to one MiniR4 (#1), using a push button adjacent to trigger an "on" timer in this MiniR4 and operate the load. After time out, the load switches off.
Second MiniR4 (#2) to act as a remote WiFi button to do the same function with the #1 MiniR4 timer/load, via the WiFi.
Am I on the right track? How is the timer set up.
Thanks
What you say it's possible and the 2nd switch could be "synced up" using automation panel in eWeLink app. Timers would be managed in the app as well as the device offers inching, timers and schedules in ewelink
@@notenoughtech Many thanks for your help, I will do more study and set it up!
Can you control 3 gang switches or is it just for 1 gang switch?
The better part of the device consists of a... relay. The electronics is quite small so no room for further miniaturization unless using smaller relay for smaller amperage.
Considering the use for lights, 2-3A would be fine with me if they could make it even smaller. I cannot imagine anyone using whole 10A to drive their lights.
@@notenoughtech my thought exactly, for me even 1amp is overkill
The instructions included are confusing or something is lost in translation.
They talk about "strong" electricity and not connecting neutrals and earths to S1 or live, neutral and earth to S2.
In their switch wiring diagrams, especially the last two using S2, isn't that what you are doing by connecting live to S2 through a switch?
I wonder if they mean don't use S1 or S2 to supply power to the module?
Any thoughts?
I'm sorry for the late reply.
Basically, you want to use the drawn schematics :) these are much better to follow than written by their instructions. You want to connect Live to S1 if I remember correctly (I'm away from home) but the illustrations were the way to go
Still waiting for something actually "extreme" 😃 Looks like this is still too big to fit behind my wall switches. The typical wall switches in Denmark are actually a nice non-clumsy design, but with the external width about 5 cm (including frame), fitting more width than 3 cm on the inside is not realistic, and not a lot of depth either.
That's seriously small space behind your switches. On the upside, you can still mount it in the ceiling.
@@notenoughtech Well, the typical ceiling outlets has no more space, without a minor construction project. But some lamps do have room to mess around, especially when I avoid the old bulb form factor, which is just bad for IoT devices.
Most of my ceiling fittings have holes big enough to cram something behind the plasterboard. The plastic covers are usually just to hide the hole and associated wiring. Again standards vary from country to country
@@notenoughtech I have the same problem here in Germany, the zigbee relay is just to big to fit behind the switch. I want both functions: use the wallswitch and able to use switch the light via smarthome. I still haven't found a series of wallswitches which fit into my frames, as i have some double switches and some with plugs below it. Putting the the relay into the ceiling cover of my lamps is the same as using a smart bulb.
@@thomasfjen One potential strategy could be to tear out the wall switch to get room for a "smart" relay, and then cover with a battery Zigbee button, to manage actions via your smartphone backend.
Any info about zigbee version? ZBMINI R4? Thanks 😊
Nothing yet but I'll have the new temperature sensor early from them. It's ZigBee and comes with a display
@@notenoughtech now that I'm interested in
ZBMINI-L2 Soon.
Hi Mat,
Have you tried the schematic in which you install the switch between the live wire and S2? It doesn't work for me.
Have you set the switch in correct mode? Triple press the button to toggle between push button and toggle
@@notenoughtech Thanks for your reply, but it was my bad. I tried using a proximity sensor relay as a switch, but when turned off there is 5 volts so the mini always gets voltage and doesn't switch on or off.
I see
No volt free relay contacts? This is the reason I use Shelly.
As the product is purposly made for in-wall switching, dry contact are not a benefit in this scenario. For other applications, there are other choices from both Shelly and Sonoff brands (and others)
3:48 Also not on the top of the relay? Because of the daughter-board you're looking at the side in the video.
it must be on side facing the pcb
No power usage monitor? Shouldn't everything have 1 nowadays 😄
How much do the power monitor components cost anyway?
I think the size would be a constraint but I agree something like this with PM would be awesome
Hello , good video explanation.Can I use this gor curtain shutter 2 way?
Not this one, but Sonoff has a dedicated dual channel relay for this
Are they going to release also Sonoff MiniR4 Extreme that doesn't require a neutral line?
Yes. Expect the video on it this week. It's ZigBee. Just to let you know
@@notenoughtech Thank you for your quick response
The video is online now
Thank you for a awesome channel 😀
I was wondering if this device can be useful for me, I am trying to connect a photoelectric sensor to know if it is active or not, I meant I don't need to turn on/off, I just need to know the current status of the sensor then I can wire the logic to turn on/omaff a light by ewelink.
I don't think this is the best device for that. Whats the voltage of your sensor connected?
@@notenoughtech
Supreform IP67 Waterproof 40 Feet Range 10-30VDC Retro-Reflective Photoelectric Beam Sensor
Output: Relay SPDT
Output Capacity: 1A/30VDC, 1A/250VAC
crossing fingers that can run ESPHome smoothly!
actually I'm interested in a zigbee version of this little device xD
I hope we will see one soon!
It's here. Just bought one. I wish they had z wave 😢
Isn't this zigbee based? You just mentioned it's wifi 🤔
Yes this one is WiFi based
@@notenoughtech do Shelly come with zigbee relays?
Hello, can this be paired via wifi to use with homeassistant?
API or you need to flash it
Thank you Mat.
Thank you for watching Ron!
SONOFF ZBMINIL2 Questions.. Is it a good fit and will it work in these scenarios?
Here is what I'm wanting to accomplish and hoping someone can tell me if this device will do that..
**Scenario 1:** Have a switch box that has a neutral wire. It turns my ceiling fan / light combo off/on.. I have a Smart Life universal wifi fan/light combo installed that I have in HA to control fan and lights. However, switch has to be on to do so.. I want to be able to control the fan/light via HA/Alexa regardless if the switch is in off/on position.
**Scenario 2:** I have 3 switch boxes, all 3 way, that control our hallway lights. None have a neutral. Will this device provide HA on/off ability? If so, do I need to install 3 (one in each box)?
**Scenario 3:** I have a switch box with no neutral. Just want HA to have ability to turn lights off/on.
Also, for any of the scenarios that do work (if any), does the standard on/off toggle light switch work with them?
Thanks!
Scenario 1 is ok as you will be able to use your switch for something else and keep fan/light on all the time.
Scenario 2 depends on how it's all wired but if it's a loop (fed from one socket) then you need just one device.
Scenario 3 as long as you use non neutral version should be fine
@@notenoughtech thanks for the reply!! So for scenario 1, what do you mean I’ll be able to use the switch for something else? Will the switch still turn the light / fan off as normal if it is on?
It will be down to you as you can decouple the switch from the relay
@@notenoughtech Thanks for the reply!! I tried installing “scenario 3” today.
It’s not working how I expected but maybe it’s normal / how it works.
I installed it and added it to HA. I was able to control it via HA but it had some pretty bad lag (but very well can be my zigbee network).
I tried powering it on with HA and then while it was on I toggled the switch. It did turn off but in HA it still shows on. Is that expected?
Thanks for the help.

Thank You
Thanks for watching
Wannahave
These little Chinese innocuous products are known as a sleeper cell or bot, leaving you and most of the free world exposed. I prefer buying the ones you can re-flash and set up your own personal server/control behind your firewall. As well you can access more features on the chipset, like input sensing (temp sensor etc) and not just using it for output control
If you ever try to write a firmware for ESP based device, you will know how much of a BS your statement is. These ICs are so limited in size, that tasmota have version cut in libraries as they wouldn't fit on the storage of ESP controllers.
In the most grim scenario, assuming "sleeper" behaviour - it would report the state of the relay and maybe APR scan of your network without affecting its use. A malicious code could be sent via OTA, but that's so unlkely done by a IoT provider that I won't even go there. You are more likely to suffer from a personal hacker attack than a big company like ITEAD using your devices as a botnet network.
The sole fact of how much effort it takes for a non cloud connected server (*aka us hacking these) to change the firmware tells you all about the operation.
Been using extra SRAM on the i2c bus and the Arduino library for ESP-IDF.