I have a salt system, it works great , no irritation, and the device has a flow rate sensor. To be honest, whatever system you use you need to check ph ,CHL levels etc .
How do you control and keep the calcium hardness level at bay while on a salt system? I love that you don’t gotta deal with high CYA and constant liquid chlorine use but I don’t like the calcium hardness increase, how Do you keep it low?
Interesting system. I find myself curious about your system and will probably do more research should I have to replace my current setup. I have come to the conclusion that every type of pool sanitizing systems require some additional chemical(s). I understand that the pool ionizers require users to regularly "shock" the pool. FWIW, I have had a salt-system for over 12 years and love it. Overall, so little maintenance with a salt system compared to what I had before. Like you said, I do find myself adding muriatic acid weekly to keep the ph down. My first salt cell lasted over 7 years and I replaced it myself (just unscrew/unplug it and replace). I clean it about once a year and it is never that corroded when I do. There's no chance of mine exploding because the salt cell has a water "flow-sensor" that cuts off the salt-cell if there is no water flow. I think that flow sensor switch is standard in all of them now. Salt system did rust out my pool heater...well, at least the parts of it that were not stainless steel so if I ever get another one, I'll make sure its designed for salt pools. Other than that, I'm very happy with my salt system as it has saved me a lot of time.
Built my own solar copper ionization thingy for like $13 have not needed shock for about two months now. I was constantly having to shock at least twice a month for algee growth. I still put a puck in the floater every two weeks more or less. $13 solar battery charger attached to some 1" Styrofoam to float and some copper pipes separated by the thickness of a ziptie. Have to scrub it often to remove God only knows what build up. Curious to see how it does in the long run but have high hopes so far.
@@jrandesi56 I'm coming into the third year. I'm on v 2.0. It's not a cure all but it significantly cuts down the need for chlorine and as a byproduct pulls total dissolved solids from the water. Still do not fully understand it but I know what I've seen in the last few years. For $20-30 you can't go wrong. Get the thickest pieces of copper you can. I use strips cut from a 4"x 12" copper pipe cut at 1" wide 12" long now.
@@badmandansanchez1823 that's why I am browsing the depths of YT right now, just keep in mind that 2.3ppm+? Of copper is toxic to humans, and copper does stain pools. I am thinking of going with the extremepower ionizer version from home depot, they have it on sale for like $60 right now. Good luck!
I have changed 400 plus liners. The pool that have been the most rusted had never been salt, but regular chlorine. Rarely do I see build up on aqua right salt cells (150 plus inspected a year), usually a result of bad chemistry. Explosion is a result of improper installation or a garage salt system. Corrosion of equipment, use a anode and bond it, slows it right down. I get it though you need to push this new idea, so you can to make what people have look as bad as possible.
My opinion after 7 years of a salt system - I have used less chlorine tablets and shock in the last 7 years with my salt system than I did in the first 8 months of owning the pool. I literally gave away a 6gal bucket of tablets after using only 3 tabs. I have had to do maintenance once every 2 months in the summer and none during the 6 months from November to April here in Florida. My kids use the pool for 8 months out of the year. I had to shock it and add algicide yesterday. That was about the 5th time shocking it in 7 years. Only the 2nd time adding algicide in the last 7 years, and I am pretty sure the reason was because I left the system off for a day while I changed out my filter housing. Also cleaning the salt system is incredibly easy as you just take it off, and soak it in 5parts water and 1part muriatic acid for 10-15 mins. Also chlorine was way more corrosive than the salt system. And I'm sure you know that the salt in pools is way less salt than the ocean. Sorry dude, but to anyone that has any experience, you sound like a sleazy used car salesman.
@@kevin83FL I have owned all three systems. 2 pools we built and our current home had the pool when we bought it. The ionazation system has out performed by leaps and bounds. The pool we built with the salt system was changed to ionazation after two seasons. The salt system was the most headache of them all. The chlorine ( traditional ) was only slightly better and was changed after 2 saesons to ionaztion. This is the one we didn't build. I will never go back to anything else. Its cheaper to operate and liners last a lot longer. My pool furniture doesn't rust and my equipment lasts longer. I don't shock it as oten and don't have to keep bags of salt around. I empty the leaf basket and keep the pool clean. Every thing this guy said in the video has been the case, in my experience. So in my 22 years of owning 3 differnt pools, built 2 of them. he is spot on. The first pool we built 22 years ago was ionazation. We thought we wanted salt. The saleman sold us a salt system. After seeing the invoice the owner of the company came to see us and talked to us about the systems and told us he advised against it, 22 years ago. He then explained all the systems in detail and we saw why. Then when we built the second pool we went with the salt thinking it can't be much different. Like I said went back to ionazation. Salt pools are the snake oil of pool systems. I don't work on pools or sell pool equipment, just an owner for 22 years. \
@scottbrookerd6839 I am glad you have had that experience with ionization, which will prompt me to look into this, but seriously I have had zero issues with the salt system at all other than adding the 2-4 bags a year of salt to my pool due to it raining and my kids splashing water everywhere. I do have the Jacuzzi brand system if that makes any difference. My pool stays sparkling all year and the only time it got a green tint to it was when the salt cell failed which I just replaced for ~$450 on amazon
It might be time to change the cell. Or if you have a new cell, it might be time to replace the controller. Please visit clearblueionizer.com and use the contact form to request a new controller.
Yes, you need to maintain 0.5 ppm chlorine with an ionizer. Best way to do this is with slow dissolving stabilized chlorine tablets - one every 1-2 weeks depending on the size of your pool.
I have a customer with a Clearwater Copper Ionizer, the pH level is a challenge to keep below 7.8. Do you have any recommendations to stop it from raising consistently.
Hello Mark. Ionizers are pH neutral (at least ClearBlue is), so it might be something else driving up the pH. This could be the chlorine used, shock, acid rain, certain types of leaves, etc. If there is a salt chlorinator on the pool, that will drive up the pH as well.
Hallo dear truth, honest, intelligent person. How have you been? What's new regarding your copper silver ionization systems? What's the latest news regarding advancement with pool purification systems? Have our wonderful hardworking scientists developed an even healthier and even less expensive purification system than copper silver ionization? Thank you so very much. Best regards and have a wonderful summer season 🍉🌞🌳🍊🥭
@user-oe9ux4yq4i Great idea!! I'd only copy and paste it on similar videos regarding pool water purification methods throughout the world. I'm hoping this good man will read this and give us updates. Thanks for your interest. 😊
With ClearBlue there is a mineral cell that needs to be replaced every 6-12 months on a pool or 2-3 years on a hot tub. With a pool, the first one will go in 3-6 months on a large pool because the minerals need to ramp up in the water. At time of writing, replacement cells can be ordered online and through retailers for $130 - $150. Other than that, ongoing maintenance costs are very low. The power consumption is negligible. Typically, customers save more on chemical costs than they pay in maintaining the system.
The ClearBlue cell will last 6-12 months on a pool and 2-3 years in a hot tub. It can be reused season over season if you close the pool or hot tub. The cost ranges from $130 - $160, depending on the retailer.
How about electrolytic staining with the ionizer? Do you still have to shock? How does it oxidize organic waste like a salt chlorinator or, especially, an ozonator does? By what criteria are you saving NINETY PERCENT on chlorine consumption as you claim?
You still need to have a residual oxidizer like chlorine/bromine at 0.6ppm - this is 90% less than 3ppm which some pools are run at. You can use ozone as an oxidizer as well. We advise shocking after heavy use or after heavy rainfall. In over 10 years on the market, we have never had complaints of staining on a pool. If you run the copper level higher than 1ppm and pH above 7.5, you can get staining. With our controller, it is very difficult to get your copper higher than 0.5ppm, but you still need to test it on a regular basis.
Yes and thank you for your response but residual is not indicative of consumption. As I am certain you are aware, it's simply a measurement of how much chlorine is available to be consumed so having 90% less residual is meaningless in this regard. In a pool that is being used by bathers on a reasonably regular basis, oxidation represents unquestionably the highest percentage of demand on chlorine consumption. Since your product does not provide oxidation, to attain 90% savings in chlorine in such a pool through its implementation would therefore be impossible. Please understand that I am not denigrating your product at all and am only taking exception with your claims of 90% chlorine savings. This simply isn't the case. Combine your unit with ozone and then perhaps you can approach such numbers.
Our official label with Health Canada allows 0.6 to 3ppm of chlorine (vs. 1-3ppm without ClearBlue). This is 'up to 90%' if you run your chlorine at the low end with ClearBlue vs. the high end without ClearBlue. This is where that number comes from. But yes, there are many factors. Bottom line is, you can use less chemicals and maintain crystal clear water all summer with less maintenance :) This is what our customers and dealers have been telling us for over 10 years :)
Yes, I totally get that .5 ppm is approximately 80% of 3 ppm. You are therefore operating the pool on 80% less residual, not 80% less consumption. That's my point.
I had a pool with a pH of 4.5 and no alkalinity that was "crystal clear". Trying to decided if this is a game changer or another nice try like the nature 2...or anything zodiac for that matter.
Great to see this video, pretty good. Thanks so much, God bless you and keep healthy. We can do without marine life but we cannot do without abundance of fruits. Save the mangoes. Amen 🍍
This man is totally wrong, I’ve been using my salt system for 17 years, and I’ve been through 2 salt cells. I also have a San Juan fiberglass pool. I just ordered a solar ionizer that floats in the pool just to keep my chlorinator at the lowest level to extend the life of my cell. 👍🏼
Hey - glad to hear that you're discovering the benefits of adding an ionizer to your salt pool! If you ever get sick of cleaning the anode weekly, or annoyed by the thing floating around all the time, try one of our inline ionizer systems!
The Aqua rite system you show have an average cell life of 8 - 10 year+ . The Old Clearwater Lm2 systems were poorly designed that had poor flow detection so could explode, the others won't. You do not cover oxidization of the contaminants in the water that is needed to keep it clear. Not all algaecides contain copper in fact few do. As far as water discharge in the GTA they will not allow copper above 0.4 which I understand is your Max recommended level.
Yes, today the risk of fire or explosion is pretty low but there is 0 risk of this with an ionizer :) Oxidization is handled by the chlorine in the water which must be maintained at 0.5 - 1.0 ppm. We also recommend shocking once every week or two, depending on the size and usage of the pool.
You can't use a saltwater system in a REGULAR pool! Of course you're going to get corrosion if it's a regular pool 🤦 You have to have a salt water friendly pool in order to use a saltwater system. I have a saltwater pool & I've never had corrosion in my pool by using a saltwater generator.
@@mineralpools As I said, most of this has already been mentioned. 1) It's not highly corrosive to pool equipment. The salt content of the water is less than the salt content of a teardrop. It *may* be corrosive to your decking, due to salt buildup over time, but only if you don't clean it. 2) It does not require a large volume of salt annually. When I open my pool in the spring, I put 1-3 bags of salt in it. Salt does not evaporate, and is not consumed by the system. You only lose it due to splash out, overflow, or backwashing if you have a sand or DE filter. 3) That corrosion on those steel panels is almost certainly not due to the salt content of the water. There's no way to reliably say what caused it. It could have been the salt, but it's unlikely that it contributed significantly due to the low salt content of a salt water pool. It could *just have easily* been high humidity, the length of time it stayed wet, high or low PH, or any number of other things. 4) It does not necessarily cause any scaling, staining or cloudy water. I've owned a salt water pool for years, and never had any of those problems that couldn't easily be explained by some other cause. Scale is more likely to be caused by too much calcium, and staining by minerals in the water. 5) In *some* environments, corrosion, scaling, etc might be a problem. In such a case, you should have a sacrificial anode as part of your system. It's not an addition to the system to make up for the shortcomings of a salt cell, it's *part* of the system, which must be kept in balance. It's no different from adding CYA or calcium to your pool. 6) The reason why they "don't work" below 60 degrees is by design. The control board stops sending power to the cell because you don't need much chlorine at those temperatures, and it's far better to drop in a couple of tabs every week than to wear out your expensive salt cell. That being said, they are less efficient when the water temperature is below 60 degrees, but I still think that the way you presented it was a misrepresentation of what is actually happening. 7) If properly cared for, salt cells need to be replaced more like every 5-10 years, not 3-4. They're good for at least 10k hours. Do the right thing and turn your water over between 1 and 2 times per day, less in the winter, and make sure your salt system only has power when the pump is on, and you'll replace your cell far less often. 8) Replacement cells *are* expensive, but still less than the cost of 5-10 years of chlorine tablets. The cost begins to even out when you consider that they do drive PH up, and as a result, you either need an acid pump, or you need to manually add acid every week. Still, the maintenance cost is roughly equivalent. 9) As far as the salt cell blowing up, most have a flow meter and will shut down if no flow is detected. However, even if they don't, explosion is only a risk when the cell is improperly installed. It should be the highest point in your system by at least 6 inches so that the hydrogen gas, which is created as a byproduct, only fills the canister which houses the plates. The cells are sized deliberately and appropriately such that the amount of hydrogen gas that they can contain is non-volatile and quite safe. 10) Yes the plates do scale up. When you open your pool you should check them and either scrape off the scale, or use a solution of muriatic acid to clean them. This is no different than the regular maintenance you'd do to make sure your cartridge filter is clean, or your DE filter is charged. The vast majority of cells are either clear so you can see the scale, or have an indicator that tells you when it needs to be cleaned. You're acting like the owner of a salt cell is one of those people from an infomercial that can't do some extremely simple task without bumbling it, and therefore need whatever it is the infomercial is selling. I'm not saying ionizers aren't better. I have no idea if they are or aren't, as I have no experience with them. However, it would be a shame for someone to see your video and take your claims as the honest and whole truth and be turned away from using a salt system if that's what they really want. Apologies if any of this seems derogatory. I don't mean it to be. I just honestly don't believe the claims you made about salt systems to be accurate.
@@lenonkitchens7727 wait.. misinformation "has less salt than tears" tears and serum from our bodies is extremely salty over 6 milligrams (mg) of NaCl dissolved in each millilitre (ml) of tear fluid. So bad example dumbass.
@@Frankybeanselevators I shouldn't even reply to such an idiotic comment, but I will this one time. A human tear is less than one percent salt, which is significantly more than the concentration in a pool, and yet still won't corrode any of the fixtures in a pool. Dumbass.
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Grand Final - EDG vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WvObMc9VelI/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a salt system, it works great , no irritation, and the device has a flow rate sensor.
To be honest, whatever system you use you need to check ph ,CHL levels etc .
Yes, there is more than one way to sanitize a pool :) Whatever works best for you!
Honestly all these systems are pretty close to each other
How do you control and keep the calcium hardness level at bay while on a salt system? I love that you don’t gotta deal with high CYA and constant liquid chlorine use but I don’t like the calcium hardness increase, how Do you keep it low?
@chabka34 not from what I hear. Copper silver ionization systems are overall the best.
@@mineralpools ha, nice of you to say but from what I've heard copper silver ionization systems are overall the best. Thank you 😊
Interesting system. I find myself curious about your system and will probably do more research should I have to replace my current setup. I have come to the conclusion that every type of pool sanitizing systems require some additional chemical(s). I understand that the pool ionizers require users to regularly "shock" the pool. FWIW, I have had a salt-system for over 12 years and love it. Overall, so little maintenance with a salt system compared to what I had before. Like you said, I do find myself adding muriatic acid weekly to keep the ph down. My first salt cell lasted over 7 years and I replaced it myself (just unscrew/unplug it and replace). I clean it about once a year and it is never that corroded when I do. There's no chance of mine exploding because the salt cell has a water "flow-sensor" that cuts off the salt-cell if there is no water flow. I think that flow sensor switch is standard in all of them now. Salt system did rust out my pool heater...well, at least the parts of it that were not stainless steel so if I ever get another one, I'll make sure its designed for salt pools. Other than that, I'm very happy with my salt system as it has saved me a lot of time.
Salt systems are great. If you fail to address galvanic corrosion in your pool, it's on YOU, not the salt system. Anodes are very easy to install.
I'm glad this was made in 2015, saying Salt water pools are expensive to run???? Have you tried a chlorine pool???
How is it 5 years later in 2024? Lol
Very nice to hear a good honest man speak. There aren't to many real gentlemen left on this planet.
very informative thank you for making this video, looking forward to a pool in the near future, thanks for educating me........
Built my own solar copper ionization thingy for like $13 have not needed shock for about two months now. I was constantly having to shock at least twice a month for algee growth. I still put a puck in the floater every two weeks more or less. $13 solar battery charger attached to some 1" Styrofoam to float and some copper pipes separated by the thickness of a ziptie. Have to scrub it often to remove God only knows what build up. Curious to see how it does in the long run but have high hopes so far.
How did it work out? might make one myself just curious of ewsults and any tips.
@@jrandesi56 I'm coming into the third year. I'm on v 2.0. It's not a cure all but it significantly cuts down the need for chlorine and as a byproduct pulls total dissolved solids from the water. Still do not fully understand it but I know what I've seen in the last few years. For $20-30 you can't go wrong. Get the thickest pieces of copper you can. I use strips cut from a 4"x 12" copper pipe cut at 1" wide 12" long now.
@@badmandansanchez1823 Awesome!
@@badmandansanchez1823 that's why I am browsing the depths of YT right now, just keep in mind that 2.3ppm+? Of copper is toxic to humans, and copper does stain pools. I am thinking of going with the extremepower ionizer version from home depot, they have it on sale for like $60 right now. Good luck!
I have changed 400 plus liners. The pool that have been the most rusted had never been salt, but regular chlorine. Rarely do I see build up on aqua right salt cells (150 plus inspected a year), usually a result of bad chemistry. Explosion is a result of improper installation or a garage salt system. Corrosion of equipment, use a anode and bond it, slows it right down. I get it though you need to push this new idea, so you can to make what people have look as bad as possible.
Ask 10 different pool people for their opinion and you'll get 10 different answers :)
My opinion after 7 years of a salt system - I have used less chlorine tablets and shock in the last 7 years with my salt system than I did in the first 8 months of owning the pool. I literally gave away a 6gal bucket of tablets after using only 3 tabs. I have had to do maintenance once every 2 months in the summer and none during the 6 months from November to April here in Florida. My kids use the pool for 8 months out of the year. I had to shock it and add algicide yesterday. That was about the 5th time shocking it in 7 years. Only the 2nd time adding algicide in the last 7 years, and I am pretty sure the reason was because I left the system off for a day while I changed out my filter housing. Also cleaning the salt system is incredibly easy as you just take it off, and soak it in 5parts water and 1part muriatic acid for 10-15 mins. Also chlorine was way more corrosive than the salt system. And I'm sure you know that the salt in pools is way less salt than the ocean. Sorry dude, but to anyone that has any experience, you sound like a sleazy used car salesman.
@@kevin83FL I have owned all three systems. 2 pools we built and our current home had the pool when we bought it. The ionazation system has out performed by leaps and bounds. The pool we built with the salt system was changed to ionazation after two seasons. The salt system was the most headache of them all. The chlorine ( traditional ) was only slightly better and was changed after 2 saesons to ionaztion. This is the one we didn't build. I will never go back to anything else. Its cheaper to operate and liners last a lot longer. My pool furniture doesn't rust and my equipment lasts longer. I don't shock it as oten and don't have to keep bags of salt around. I empty the leaf basket and keep the pool clean. Every thing this guy said in the video has been the case, in my experience. So in my 22 years of owning 3 differnt pools, built 2 of them. he is spot on. The first pool we built 22 years ago was ionazation. We thought we wanted salt. The saleman sold us a salt system. After seeing the invoice the owner of the company came to see us and talked to us about the systems and told us he advised against it, 22 years ago. He then explained all the systems in detail and we saw why. Then when we built the second pool we went with the salt thinking it can't be much different. Like I said went back to ionazation. Salt pools are the snake oil of pool systems. I don't work on pools or sell pool equipment, just an owner for 22 years.
\
@scottbrookerd6839 I am glad you have had that experience with ionization, which will prompt me to look into this, but seriously I have had zero issues with the salt system at all other than adding the 2-4 bags a year of salt to my pool due to it raining and my kids splashing water everywhere. I do have the Jacuzzi brand system if that makes any difference. My pool stays sparkling all year and the only time it got a green tint to it was when the salt cell failed which I just replaced for ~$450 on amazon
is it possible to have a chlorine free salt water pool, set up more like a natural pool. Have coral, reef fish, plant filtering areas etc.
No. Not under EPA, NSF and Health Canada regulations. Plus a pool that salty would corrode everything in sight!
Who really wants to swim in salt water and why? Mineral ionization pools are like swimming in a pristine mountain lake. Fresh water BEST
@@mineralpools thank you, Good, God bless
I wonder if they ever reprinted that first graphic to fix the fact that technology was misspelled.
My ionizing light is not on and I have algae…do I need to replace the controller at 6 years old?
It might be time to change the cell. Or if you have a new cell, it might be time to replace the controller. Please visit clearblueionizer.com and use the contact form to request a new controller.
Is this like a mineral/magnesium pool?
I think magnesium and Magnesium are classed as salt but far more efficient than salt.
do we have to supplement an ionizer with chlorine?
Yes, you need to maintain 0.5 ppm chlorine with an ionizer. Best way to do this is with slow dissolving stabilized chlorine tablets - one every 1-2 weeks depending on the size of your pool.
I have a customer with a Clearwater Copper Ionizer, the pH level is a challenge to keep below 7.8. Do you have any recommendations to stop it from raising consistently.
Hello Mark. Ionizers are pH neutral (at least ClearBlue is), so it might be something else driving up the pH. This could be the chlorine used, shock, acid rain, certain types of leaves, etc. If there is a salt chlorinator on the pool, that will drive up the pH as well.
@@mineralpools acid rain will drive the pH down, not up.
Hope you also do vs Ozone what is better
Hallo dear truth, honest, intelligent person. How have you been? What's new regarding your copper silver ionization systems? What's the latest news regarding advancement with pool purification systems? Have our wonderful hardworking scientists developed an even healthier and even less expensive purification system than copper silver ionization? Thank you so very much. Best regards and have a wonderful summer season 🍉🌞🌳🍊🥭
Do you copy paste this same comment under every video?
@user-oe9ux4yq4i Great idea!! I'd only copy and paste it on similar videos regarding pool water purification methods throughout the world. I'm hoping this good man will read this and give us updates. Thanks for your interest. 😊
Wish I’d seen this video $2000 ago.
What are the maintenance costs like including service, replacement parts etc?
With ClearBlue there is a mineral cell that needs to be replaced every 6-12 months on a pool or 2-3 years on a hot tub. With a pool, the first one will go in 3-6 months on a large pool because the minerals need to ramp up in the water.
At time of writing, replacement cells can be ordered online and through retailers for $130 - $150.
Other than that, ongoing maintenance costs are very low. The power consumption is negligible.
Typically, customers save more on chemical costs than they pay in maintaining the system.
I use colloidal silver and cooper. I have sand filter.
Where do you get your colloidal silver and copper? Link to dosing instructions would be helpful as well. Thanks!
Amazon.
Can the ionizer be used in an Olympic size pool?
The ClearBlue systems are good for up to 40,000 gallons. More than that, and you can use multiple systems, or find a more industrial strength one.
@@mineralpools Can you recommend an industrial brand? Please and Thank You for replying. 💚
What is the name of the Tablet that you are putting the skimmer ? Z-?
Z-puck. These are zinc tablets available in parts of Canada. In the US, look for Pool Life MPT Extra at your local pool store or online.
How often does the ionization fork needs to be replaced and how much is it?
The ClearBlue cell will last 6-12 months on a pool and 2-3 years in a hot tub. It can be reused season over season if you close the pool or hot tub. The cost ranges from $130 - $160, depending on the retailer.
How about electrolytic staining with the ionizer? Do you still have to shock? How does it oxidize organic waste like a salt chlorinator or, especially, an ozonator does? By what criteria are you saving NINETY PERCENT on chlorine consumption as you claim?
You still need to have a residual oxidizer like chlorine/bromine at 0.6ppm - this is 90% less than 3ppm which some pools are run at. You can use ozone as an oxidizer as well. We advise shocking after heavy use or after heavy rainfall. In over 10 years on the market, we have never had complaints of staining on a pool. If you run the copper level higher than 1ppm and pH above 7.5, you can get staining. With our controller, it is very difficult to get your copper higher than 0.5ppm, but you still need to test it on a regular basis.
Yes and thank you for your response but residual is not indicative of consumption. As I am certain you are aware, it's simply a measurement of how much chlorine is available to be consumed so having 90% less residual is meaningless in this regard. In a pool that is being used by bathers on a reasonably regular basis, oxidation represents unquestionably the highest percentage of demand on chlorine consumption. Since your product does not provide oxidation, to attain 90% savings in chlorine in such a pool through its implementation would therefore be impossible. Please understand that I am not denigrating your product at all and am only taking exception with your claims of 90% chlorine savings. This simply isn't the case. Combine your unit with ozone and then perhaps you can approach such numbers.
Our official label with Health Canada allows 0.6 to 3ppm of chlorine (vs. 1-3ppm without ClearBlue). This is 'up to 90%' if you run your chlorine at the low end with ClearBlue vs. the high end without ClearBlue. This is where that number comes from. But yes, there are many factors. Bottom line is, you can use less chemicals and maintain crystal clear water all summer with less maintenance :) This is what our customers and dealers have been telling us for over 10 years :)
Yes, I totally get that .5 ppm is approximately 80% of 3 ppm. You are therefore operating the pool on 80% less residual, not 80% less consumption. That's my point.
I had a pool with a pH of 4.5 and no alkalinity that was "crystal clear". Trying to decided if this is a game changer or another nice try like the nature 2...or anything zodiac for that matter.
Fire, explosion, and environmental impact. People are still commenting how good they are, lol
Great to see this video, pretty good. Thanks so much, God bless you and keep healthy. We can do without marine life but we cannot do without abundance of fruits. Save the mangoes. Amen 🍍
this whole video is a load of shit
why does he have a pager on ???
That's his wireless mic :)
It's a microphone module
This man is totally wrong, I’ve been using my salt system for 17 years, and I’ve been through 2 salt cells. I also have a San Juan fiberglass pool. I just ordered a solar ionizer that floats in the pool just to keep my chlorinator at the lowest level to extend the life of my cell. 👍🏼
Hey - glad to hear that you're discovering the benefits of adding an ionizer to your salt pool! If you ever get sick of cleaning the anode weekly, or annoyed by the thing floating around all the time, try one of our inline ionizer systems!
The Aqua rite system you show have an average cell life of 8 - 10 year+ . The Old Clearwater Lm2 systems were poorly designed that had poor flow detection so could explode, the others won't.
You do not cover oxidization of the contaminants in the water that is needed to keep it clear.
Not all algaecides contain copper in fact few do. As far as water discharge in the GTA they will not allow copper above 0.4 which I understand is your Max recommended level.
Yes, today the risk of fire or explosion is pretty low but there is 0 risk of this with an ionizer :) Oxidization is handled by the chlorine in the water which must be maintained at 0.5 - 1.0 ppm. We also recommend shocking once every week or two, depending on the size and usage of the pool.
What are your thoughts about the amount of available active chlorine in light if varying cya stabilizer levels?
The FAC / CYA relationship is the same as with a typical chlorine pool. Does that answer your question?
No understanding of pool chemistry!
All these people are the same LOYAL only to the ALMIGHTY BUC $$
You can't use a saltwater system in a REGULAR pool! Of course you're going to get corrosion if it's a regular pool 🤦 You have to have a salt water friendly pool in order to use a saltwater system. I have a saltwater pool & I've never had corrosion in my pool by using a saltwater generator.
It is the salt in the water that causes corrosion. It takes several years.
Wow. A lot of salty people in these comments..
All part of the fun :)
There is no VS, get both!
Truth!
Wow, so much misinformation in this video. I'd list it and talk about it, but the comments below have it covered already.
Do elaborate please
@@mineralpools As I said, most of this has already been mentioned.
1) It's not highly corrosive to pool equipment. The salt content of the water is less than the salt content of a teardrop. It *may* be corrosive to your decking, due to salt buildup over time, but only if you don't clean it.
2) It does not require a large volume of salt annually. When I open my pool in the spring, I put 1-3 bags of salt in it. Salt does not evaporate, and is not consumed by the system. You only lose it due to splash out, overflow, or backwashing if you have a sand or DE filter.
3) That corrosion on those steel panels is almost certainly not due to the salt content of the water. There's no way to reliably say what caused it. It could have been the salt, but it's unlikely that it contributed significantly due to the low salt content of a salt water pool. It could *just have easily* been high humidity, the length of time it stayed wet, high or low PH, or any number of other things.
4) It does not necessarily cause any scaling, staining or cloudy water. I've owned a salt water pool for years, and never had any of those problems that couldn't easily be explained by some other cause. Scale is more likely to be caused by too much calcium, and staining by minerals in the water.
5) In *some* environments, corrosion, scaling, etc might be a problem. In such a case, you should have a sacrificial anode as part of your system. It's not an addition to the system to make up for the shortcomings of a salt cell, it's *part* of the system, which must be kept in balance. It's no different from adding CYA or calcium to your pool.
6) The reason why they "don't work" below 60 degrees is by design. The control board stops sending power to the cell because you don't need much chlorine at those temperatures, and it's far better to drop in a couple of tabs every week than to wear out your expensive salt cell. That being said, they are less efficient when the water temperature is below 60 degrees, but I still think that the way you presented it was a misrepresentation of what is actually happening.
7) If properly cared for, salt cells need to be replaced more like every 5-10 years, not 3-4. They're good for at least 10k hours. Do the right thing and turn your water over between 1 and 2 times per day, less in the winter, and make sure your salt system only has power when the pump is on, and you'll replace your cell far less often.
8) Replacement cells *are* expensive, but still less than the cost of 5-10 years of chlorine tablets. The cost begins to even out when you consider that they do drive PH up, and as a result, you either need an acid pump, or you need to manually add acid every week. Still, the maintenance cost is roughly equivalent.
9) As far as the salt cell blowing up, most have a flow meter and will shut down if no flow is detected. However, even if they don't, explosion is only a risk when the cell is improperly installed. It should be the highest point in your system by at least 6 inches so that the hydrogen gas, which is created as a byproduct, only fills the canister which houses the plates. The cells are sized deliberately and appropriately such that the amount of hydrogen gas that they can contain is non-volatile and quite safe.
10) Yes the plates do scale up. When you open your pool you should check them and either scrape off the scale, or use a solution of muriatic acid to clean them. This is no different than the regular maintenance you'd do to make sure your cartridge filter is clean, or your DE filter is charged. The vast majority of cells are either clear so you can see the scale, or have an indicator that tells you when it needs to be cleaned. You're acting like the owner of a salt cell is one of those people from an infomercial that can't do some extremely simple task without bumbling it, and therefore need whatever it is the infomercial is selling.
I'm not saying ionizers aren't better. I have no idea if they are or aren't, as I have no experience with them. However, it would be a shame for someone to see your video and take your claims as the honest and whole truth and be turned away from using a salt system if that's what they really want.
Apologies if any of this seems derogatory. I don't mean it to be. I just honestly don't believe the claims you made about salt systems to be accurate.
@@lenonkitchens7727 Everyone has different experiences! Thanks for sharing yours!
@@lenonkitchens7727 wait.. misinformation "has less salt than tears" tears and serum from our bodies is extremely salty over 6 milligrams (mg) of NaCl dissolved in each millilitre (ml) of tear fluid. So bad example dumbass.
@@Frankybeanselevators I shouldn't even reply to such an idiotic comment, but I will this one time. A human tear is less than one percent salt, which is significantly more than the concentration in a pool, and yet still won't corrode any of the fixtures in a pool. Dumbass.
He doesn’t know much lol
♫ I don't know much..... but I know I love yooooooooooou ♫