OK, while there is some good information here, there is also some erroneous information. It should be noted that these water sanitation technologies aren't mutually-exclusive of each other by any means. In fact, since ozone does not leave a residual, it cannot be used as a stand-alone water disinfection method unless it is introduced into the water in quantities that are massive enough to maintain adequate ORP (oxidation-reduction potential) to keep the water safe for bathers. This would require a commercial ozone unit and would be cost-prohibitive for the average consumer. Ozone is most frequently used as an augmentation to and not as a replacement for a chlorine delivery system (salt chlorine or tablets). That's because ozone is primarily an oxidizer (a "shock") that keeps chloramines and other combined chlorine compounds from forming. Chlorine is used as the primary method to provide a residual in order to measure the relative safety of the water (in a residential pool, at least 1 part per million of free available chlorine) and to kill bacteria, viruses and algae. Using ozone as the primary oxidizer with a chlorine delivery system greatly reduces the amount of chlorine that is used and therefore saves significant operating expense. It also eliminates the need to "shock" the pool on a normal basis which saves money, time and trouble. Additionally, the ozone/chlorine combination results in the safest, cleanest and most crystal-clear water you can get. It's an awesome combination. If a salt chlorinator is used to provide the chlorine component of the water sanitation package, you have as close to an automated disinfection system as you can get without resorting to the exorbitant expense of a commercially-rated configuration. SO....my recommendation would be to get both!
@@beyondthen4621 Although chloramines bind up free chlorine and reduce its ability to maximize disinfection in a swimming pool or spa, there is no effect on the H2O molecule itself. In fact, monochloramine is being used more frequently as an approved disinfectant for drinking water in many communities. See this link for more technical information: www.wqa.org/Portals/0/Technical/Technical Fact Sheets/2014_Chloramine.pdf
Great explanation!! .......But, I can't un-see the lack of unions in the top side plumbing and the use of DWV fittings that aren't designed for pressurized settings. Sorry, I am a repairman and I'm a stickler for both due to my business. Also, almost every pool has metal somewhere in the pool construction and equipment, some heaters aren't compatible/warranted with salt systems.
Some people absolutely do have metal pools. The three main types of pools are panelized, reinforced concrete, and fiberglass. Panelized (aka kit) pools are made out of polyethylene plastic, stainless steel, or galvanized aluminum and then covered with vinyl liner or stucco/pool-shotcrete). So if you have a metal kit pool, and the vinyl liner starts to leak salt water - HELLO CORROSION.
Ozone system is one f de best disinfected system and its 10times costlier than the salt system, then why did you opt for a salt system. Regarding chlorine, no matter you hav a salt system or an Ozone System, you still need to add 10% of chlorine to avoid cross infection.
Ozone isn't 10 times costlier than a salt system. You can buy an ozone unit to supplement your halogen sanitizer for less than $1500 plus installation.
Sure you can. You aren't just using ozone to disinfect your water though, are you? Can't do that unless you are using a commercial system on a residential pool....cost-prohibitive.
With the proper ozone system no additional chlorine is required is there also no recurring cost. If you get the right system I think ozone is the better alternative
I'm only experienced with my three neighbors and they both put chlorine, acid and measure chemical like any other pool. Somthing for people to look for.
So I like you have been doing a lot of research, and it seems that salt is the better way to go. But it does have some wear to the metal parts in the pump after 5-7 years. I've also heard of drinkable pool water system, seems to be cleaner and better but doesn't seem to be as popular which makes me wonder. So all in all, I think I may go salt since that seems to be the most popular by experts.
Whoever plumbed your equipment knew what they were doing. It looks awesome. You should have gone with the UVOzone. It's where the industry is going. Cleaner water and not corrosive like salt.
UV still uses the same amount of acid and chlorine (tablets). Salt water chlorine pools aren't as harsh as tablets which are used in UV setups. I think many discussions go on which is better.
@@how2togo You made the right decision. Ozone systems are fools gold. The fact that you still have to use tabs with them will cause the CYA to rise rapidly which will lead to having to drain the pool to get the chemicals back in proper range. Salt water generators, on the other hand, are way more convenient and generate the chlorine on their own without any added CYA. You just have to clean the cells periodically with a 4 to 1 solution of water to muriatic acid. That will dissolve all the calcium on the titanium plates and keep your system running smoothly.
I think there both good i been cleaning the same pools for over 8 years if you have weekly service there both amazing and make my job easy the more they add the better some ppl buy all the extra stuff had a man buy a 20,000$ pool system he even has to tanks for acid and chlorine but need weekly pool maintenance I guess they all suck if you want to save money unless you do it your self but they all need a bit of chlorine and acid I don’t think any work it might be because we’re in California and it’s hot but it rear to find a pool that I don’t have to add chemicals
@@Paggy6668 You're mistaken about ozone being "fools gold". You don't necessarily have to use tabs with ozone....you can use any type of halogen sanitizer, including a salt system. Understand that ozone is generally not used as a stand-alone sanitizer since there is no residual. However, ozone is an awesome oxidizer and clarifier and will save a lot of chlorine in the process. The basic comparison being made by the OP is actually apples and oranges since the choice between ozone and chlorine is not a mutually exclusive one but rather is a complementary one.
What should my chlorine test numbers be with an Ozone system, can't seem to get a straight answer. I'm still adding chlorine nearly everyday to keep my test number around 5, is this too high? I don't see the (uses less Chlorine) feature...
best is UV and Ozone combination. You'll reduce chlorine by huge amounts. The UV essentially is the replacement for your chlorine, and the Ozone is the extra 'shock'. You will reduce your chlorine presence by about 80 to 90 percent, which not only saves a lot of money on chlorine - though obviously you will need to replace the bulbs every 2 to 3 seasons/years - but it will greatly improve the PH of the water and make it far more pleasurable to use your pool as the chlorine amount is just so much lower. If you combine this with a decent robot with decent filters, you will need minimal time to 'clean' your pool, and minimal need to backwash, and you will put less strain on not only your body, but also to the environment, your pool itself, the tubing, and all the equipment essentially. Proper pool equipment and maintainance makes a huge difference. A pool cover (retractable) is also a good investment : when not using your pool, just put the cover and it will prevent all sorts of dust, debris and contaminations from entering the pool. This will greatly reduce the amount of cleaning you will need to do (by robot fe) and as such will expand the lifespan of your pool robot, and since the pool remains cleaner, you will need to do less extensive backwashing (actually, the UV and Ozone filters need to work less hard too) and as such increase the lifespan of your bulbs but also save a lot of water. if you really want to make the best of things, make sure your 'waste tubing' does not immediately go into the sewers or garden. Run it through an extra filter that catches as much fine waste as possible in the top, and leave most of the backwashing water in a (big enough) tank. With a combination of UV and Ozone, chlorine levels will likely be low enough, but as extra precaution it's easy enough to install a filter to remove the remaining chlorine, and then hook it up to your gardens irrigation system. the deposits that stay behind in the filters can be put in a decomposing tank and when dried can be easily 'recycled' for a variety of uses.
from salt (Na Cl!) some pool owners create chlorine by hydrolysis (by electric current in a box)
OK, while there is some good information here, there is also some erroneous information. It should be noted that these water sanitation technologies aren't mutually-exclusive of each other by any means. In fact, since ozone does not leave a residual, it cannot be used as a stand-alone water disinfection method unless it is introduced into the water in quantities that are massive enough to maintain adequate ORP (oxidation-reduction potential) to keep the water safe for bathers. This would require a commercial ozone unit and would be cost-prohibitive for the average consumer.
Ozone is most frequently used as an augmentation to and not as a replacement for a chlorine delivery system (salt chlorine or tablets). That's because ozone is primarily an oxidizer (a "shock") that keeps chloramines and other combined chlorine compounds from forming. Chlorine is used as the primary method to provide a residual in order to measure the relative safety of the water (in a residential pool, at least 1 part per million of free available chlorine) and to kill bacteria, viruses and algae. Using ozone as the primary oxidizer with a chlorine delivery system greatly reduces the amount of chlorine that is used and therefore saves significant operating expense. It also eliminates the need to "shock" the pool on a normal basis which saves money, time and trouble. Additionally, the ozone/chlorine combination results in the safest, cleanest and most crystal-clear water you can get. It's an awesome combination.
If a salt chlorinator is used to provide the chlorine component of the water sanitation package, you have as close to an automated disinfection system as you can get without resorting to the exorbitant expense of a commercially-rated configuration. SO....my recommendation would be to get both!
Chlorimines I hear is dangerous in that ammonia and chlorine mixed changes/destroys water molecule and can't be repaired.
@@beyondthen4621 Although chloramines bind up free chlorine and reduce its ability to maximize disinfection in a swimming pool or spa, there is no effect on the H2O molecule itself. In fact, monochloramine is being used more frequently as an approved disinfectant for drinking water in many communities. See this link for more technical information: www.wqa.org/Portals/0/Technical/Technical Fact Sheets/2014_Chloramine.pdf
I work in the steel industry and a big chunk of our galvanized steel goes into pool frames and not the above ground ones.
Great explanation!! .......But, I can't un-see the lack of unions in the top side plumbing and the use of DWV fittings that aren't designed for pressurized settings. Sorry, I am a repairman and I'm a stickler for both due to my business. Also, almost every pool has metal somewhere in the pool construction and equipment, some heaters aren't compatible/warranted with salt systems.
So you went with the system that was recommended, but didn't get into why he recommended it? Not helpful.
Some people absolutely do have metal pools. The three main types of pools are panelized, reinforced concrete, and fiberglass. Panelized (aka kit) pools are made out of polyethylene plastic, stainless steel, or galvanized aluminum and then covered with vinyl liner or stucco/pool-shotcrete). So if you have a metal kit pool, and the vinyl liner starts to leak salt water - HELLO CORROSION.
Can they both be installed?
Man that is some set-up.
I was thinking the same!
Ozone system is one f de best disinfected system and its 10times costlier than the salt system, then why did you opt for a salt system. Regarding chlorine, no matter you hav a salt system or an Ozone System, you still need to add 10% of chlorine to avoid cross infection.
Ozone isn't 10 times costlier than a salt system. You can buy an ozone unit to supplement your halogen sanitizer for less than $1500 plus installation.
I have an ozone pool and I would like to know if I can use an all in one algaecide (algaecide and water clarifier) from Pinch A Penny
Sure you can. You aren't just using ozone to disinfect your water though, are you? Can't do that unless you are using a commercial system on a residential pool....cost-prohibitive.
@@loganlibraryoflearning6504 so would that help more?,cheers
With the proper ozone system no additional chlorine is required is there also no recurring cost. If you get the right system I think ozone is the better alternative
That is incorrect. Most ozone systems tell you exactly what to expect with different sanitizers, ie chlorine, bromine, biquanides, etc.
@@bcmaner th-cam.com/video/z95wPf8cAng/w-d-xo.html I know someone who has just ozone, he doesn't add anything and it's beautiful clear water
I'm only experienced with my three neighbors and they both put chlorine, acid and measure chemical like any other pool. Somthing for people to look for.
So I like you have been doing a lot of research, and it seems that salt is the better way to go. But it does have some wear to the metal parts in the pump after 5-7 years. I've also heard of drinkable pool water system, seems to be cleaner and better but doesn't seem to be as popular which makes me wonder. So all in all, I think I may go salt since that seems to be the most popular by experts.
Do you mean mineral system that is what i currently have.
i install clear comfort systems (AOP) better than Ozone or any SWG on the market . its designed for chlorine sensitive people
why is there a huge net over your pool? you put that net back on after each use?
Kids safety. Check out the other video. Take roughly 5 minutes off and 10 to put on.
Whoever plumbed your equipment knew what they were doing. It looks awesome. You should have gone with the UVOzone. It's where the industry is going. Cleaner water and not corrosive like salt.
UV still uses the same amount of acid and chlorine (tablets). Salt water chlorine pools aren't as harsh as tablets which are used in UV setups. I think many discussions go on which is better.
@@how2togo You made the right decision. Ozone systems are fools gold. The fact that you still have to use tabs with them will cause the CYA to rise rapidly which will lead to having to drain the pool to get the chemicals back in proper range. Salt water generators, on the other hand, are way more convenient and generate the chlorine on their own without any added CYA. You just have to clean the cells periodically with a 4 to 1 solution of water to muriatic acid. That will dissolve all the calcium on the titanium plates and keep your system running smoothly.
I think there both good i been cleaning the same pools for over 8 years if you have weekly service there both amazing and make my job easy the more they add the better some ppl buy all the extra stuff had a man buy a 20,000$ pool system he even has to tanks for acid and chlorine but need weekly pool maintenance I guess they all suck if you want to save money unless you do it your self but they all need a bit of chlorine and acid I don’t think any work it might be because we’re in California and it’s hot but it rear to find a pool that I don’t have to add chemicals
But I will be adding a salt system idk maybe it’s is better or that’s the one I see more or ppl talk about more or the money
@@Paggy6668 You're mistaken about ozone being "fools gold". You don't necessarily have to use tabs with ozone....you can use any type of halogen sanitizer, including a salt system. Understand that ozone is generally not used as a stand-alone sanitizer since there is no residual. However, ozone is an awesome oxidizer and clarifier and will save a lot of chlorine in the process. The basic comparison being made by the OP is actually apples and oranges since the choice between ozone and chlorine is not a mutually exclusive one but rather is a complementary one.
What should my chlorine test numbers be with an Ozone system, can't seem to get a straight answer. I'm still adding chlorine nearly everyday to keep my test number around 5, is this too high? I don't see the (uses less Chlorine) feature...
Numbers should be the same as a salt water pool and a chlorine pool.
I am afraid to ask why you have a net on your pool
Kids safety
Pretty helpful! Didn't know much about ozone before this.
best is UV and Ozone combination. You'll reduce chlorine by huge amounts. The UV essentially is the replacement for your chlorine, and the Ozone is the extra 'shock'. You will reduce your chlorine presence by about 80 to 90 percent, which not only saves a lot of money on chlorine - though obviously you will need to replace the bulbs every 2 to 3 seasons/years - but it will greatly improve the PH of the water and make it far more pleasurable to use your pool as the chlorine amount is just so much lower.
If you combine this with a decent robot with decent filters, you will need minimal time to 'clean' your pool, and minimal need to backwash, and you will put less strain on not only your body, but also to the environment, your pool itself, the tubing, and all the equipment essentially.
Proper pool equipment and maintainance makes a huge difference. A pool cover (retractable) is also a good investment : when not using your pool, just put the cover and it will prevent all sorts of dust, debris and contaminations from entering the pool. This will greatly reduce the amount of cleaning you will need to do (by robot fe) and as such will expand the lifespan of your pool robot, and since the pool remains cleaner, you will need to do less extensive backwashing (actually, the UV and Ozone filters need to work less hard too) and as such increase the lifespan of your bulbs but also save a lot of water. if you really want to make the best of things, make sure your 'waste tubing' does not immediately go into the sewers or garden. Run it through an extra filter that catches as much fine waste as possible in the top, and leave most of the backwashing water in a (big enough) tank.
With a combination of UV and Ozone, chlorine levels will likely be low enough, but as extra precaution it's easy enough to install a filter to remove the remaining chlorine, and then hook it up to your gardens irrigation system.
the deposits that stay behind in the filters can be put in a decomposing tank and when dried can be easily 'recycled' for a variety of uses.
Super
Salt is better. Ozone takes chlorine out of the water and you always want some chlorine no matter what.
Puts ozone not oxygen. Huge difference
W.O.W.
10s of thousands of dollars woth of high tech equipment and your microphone is a potatoe....
Lol, should be better moving forward.
Salt destroys heaters!