This is the FIRST video I've watched that I actually understand how to set timing on a Hemi 5.7. Thank you for this explanation, you're a very good teacher.
Thank you for mentioning the colored links changing position. Every time I'd set the timing chain with cam dot at 12o'clock between the two colored links and crankshaft dot at 6'oclock centered on the single colored link I'd spin the motor and the links wouldnt be aligned with the dots anymore... Drove me nuts and I couldn't get past that point for a couple days. I feel so much better knowing that I've got it right now. Thanks to you. Seriously thank you
If you keep doing videos of this nature and builds like this. You are going to have a huge channel. I love learning this stuff. Thanks you for your time. Keep on your grind it’s going to be worth it.
I literally don’t think I could’ve done it, if it wasn’t for watching this video right here I would’ve had my 5.7 towed in to the dealer. You have saved me thousands and I greatly appreciate what you are doing on this channel!
I've recently had a lifter on cylinder 3 go bad and spoil my cam shaft. While my mechanic is doing the work, I've enjoyed following along by watching your video series here. Thanks for putting this out there.
I had the dumb tick! Had a couple shops tell me its gona cost thousands! So I started watching you tube videos. I went an bought a couple tools, spent under $1000 on parts and tools total. I just got my cam back in. Still got everything else to do. But its coming along! Its not an easy job for a DIY guy but so far its doable. I wish i would have kept better track of the where almost the bolts on the timing cover goes. But gona try to figure it out when i get that far. Good luck and thanks for the video!
What I do to install the cam much easier is I put the bolt on get a socket that fits the bolt with an extension bar and that gives me leverage to get it in all the way in. Try it! It's amazing lol
I used a long bolt that had the correct thread pattern on the end of the cam to give me better leverage to lift the cam in. A trick I learned from someone on LXForums.
Only video that really helped in setting my timing correctly from scratch on my 1500 hemi. Thanks! All I have to do now is start it and hope everything is good now. Keep up the great explanation videos 👍🏼💯
I used to work at a local chrysler dealer in manitoba, me and the lead cummins tech used to be able to change oil pumps on 5.7 trucks and 6.4 3/4 tons with just removing the pick up tube bolt and manipulating the oil pump around the pick up tube as you said, its a huge pain in the ass but will save you dropping pan and windage tray and front diffs in 4x4s
I hear you there. I don't remember being able to do that on the trucks, but then as techs there are always going to be guys who can do a repair a certain way that you can never figure out 😄nice work! Appreciate you watching 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, never have I found a youtube channel that is in depth into Chrysler products as you are, especially since I was also a Chrysler tech I can relate very easily to your method of explaining. Very good information on properly bleeding mds lifters, my brand new lifters were still noisy on cold starts because I have mds disabled with a tune and have never had the new lifters in mds mode, took the tune off and went down the highway and they are quiet as a brand new truck, never would have known that from all the lifter and cam jobs at the dealer since those vehicles still run mds regularly.
Did it in the 1500 without removing the oil pan but getting the pickup tube bolt to thread back on will be a hell of a job...not enough room to get your fingers in there. I used some fishing line wrapped on the threads to get the threads started on the oil pump. It wasn't a job for those short in patience...
@@ReignitedAuto not for my father listening to me curse while doing it... 😂 Next time I think I will just use a thinner bolt with a washer and a nut on top to reinstall the pickup tube or drill the oil pump threads out and just use a longer bolt with a nut. No sense in fighting with it.
Your videos have helped me get through my 2005 5.7 cherokee. But a suggestion I noticed you didn't mention in timing it is being 180 out. I just did mine and after doing the revolution my can was at 6 along with crank. It back off put cam back at 12 and good to go. I was wondering for a few days if this would happen and it sure did to me. Luckily I've been wrenching for 22 years on my stuff and been there before. This is the start to my motor building now I have lots of room, cars and all the proper tools
Good to know about the time and run cycle it takes for the lifters to fully pump up again it would be kinda scary and frustrating to start your newly rebuilt engine and hear a bunch of rattling!
Great job Sir !! Excellent way to explain how to set the timing and the importance of having the piston one on the top death point. Thanks for your help!!
You almost made me cry watching you put that camshaft in. Take the box end on a combination wrench and screw a bolt through it that is part of your camshaft. Use the wrench as a handle. If you put the camshaft in before the crankshaft while it's upside down it is so easy! I always put the camshaft in first because it's so easy to reach to.
You are correct, just the one o-ring for the pickup tube, the oil pump itself seals to the block surface with no gaskets. Kinda strange I know, but it seems to work fine.
Thanks good sir....have had alot of engines apart especially toyota and ford's..but I'm a red sealed mechanic I'm nova Scotia Canada...and I had figured as much and it wasn't hard to tell from your video that you know shit and could be a reliable source....thanks alot my freind.
Wow, you are still answering questions and helping people. Respect for that! I have a question for you. What is the torque sequence for the timing cover and water pump? Thanks.
There's not really a sequence per sae, I just install them all loosely before tightening them down, and the torque spec for both the water pump and timing case bolts is 21ftlbs. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Figured there wasn't a recommended sequence, since it's not mentioned in the FSM. Just seemed odd, so just wanted to make sure. Thanks!
these videos are awesome! have a question. my Haynes repair manual has the single blue link aligned/on the camshaft sprocket mark and the two colored links straddling the crankshaft sprocket mark. does it matter? also saw another showing the same. please keep sharing
Nope, the links are just there to help you align the crank and cam during initial installation. As long as the crank timing mark is at 6 o clock, and the cam timing mark is at 12 o clock you're good to go. 👍
You said in the beginning of the video make sure you go in snd out of mds mode. How do you do that? New to hemi. I’m going to attempt cam and lifter job with mds but worried about throwing it out of time. All the help is appreciated . Where can i get reliable parts at a good price? Bad luck on my side. Kidneys failed on me and lifters and cam issue getting worse which causes power lose when i step on the gas. Haven’t worked in over 2 years. Positive side is i just received a transplant 10 months ago . Looking for cheapest parts and what to order??
Some of my newer videos I call out torque specs more often on the important bits. I'll be releasing a video in a couple weeks on a cam swap for a Hemi engine, and I'll have a lot of the torque specs mentioned in that video. 👍
@Reignited - Cycle and Automotive realize this is an old thread, but my question concerns replacing cams with heads installed. When removing old cam, won't lifters fall through or at least slide deeper into the block, hindering or possibly blocking new cam entering the block?
There is definitely that potential, but I did verify on one of my other engines that's is possible to replace the cam without removing the heads. The lifters themselves are pretty flat in the block, but they might slide forward a bit, you can use a long magnet to pull them back through the pushrod holes as you're reinstalling the camshaft 👍
As usual very instructional video, I got a bad lifter/ cam on my 2010 grand cherokee srt8 6.1 so now I'm in the process of replacing the camshaft, lifters, springs, steam seals etc and wanted to know if I should use normal oil or assembly lube to install the new cam and also what type of oil do you recommend for the new cam brake in procedure and for how long I have to run that oil before replacing it with the normal synthetic oil?? Thanks
Can I use this same timing technique on a 6.4? I’d like to do a MDS delete, add forged pistons, and Hellcat lifters in my 2015 Challenger SRT. Your channel is giving me confidence to do it myself. My goal is to prepare the engine to add a Hellcat supercharger.
I will be attempting a cam and lifter install for my grand Cherokee 5.7 very soon… you mentioned you have to remove the oil pan for the truck, do you have to do this for the grand Cherokee as well?
Just did a 17 ram 1500 lifters and cam without the removal of the oil pan so it is possible since you have to drop down the diff and jack up the motor to drop the pan
If you set the engine to TDC before removing the camshaft you're right it's not a big deal at all, just rest the timing chain off to the side and then when you're going back together it's just lining the cam sprocket at 12 o clock and you're good. I did this video about four years ago so I'm not even sure what I said in it 😄
Great videos! however 3 things that you said were not possible, actually ARE possible! #1: you can swap the cam without taking the oil pump off to see timing marks, just make sure you put engine to top dead center first before disassembly. There are several ways to check this even blindly and that is: put engine to top dead center before disassembling the timing gear assembly, confirm by pulling the #1 cylinder plug and put at least an 8 inch plastic rod down the plug and slowly turn engine over until the rod levels out indicating piston tdc. Also can see cam reference points and crank keyway position in the 1 o clock postion to confirm you're tdc, along with the removal of the spark plug to confirm. If you have the heads off then you can plainly see the piston at tdc to confirm its position as well. #2 possible thing you said you can't do but can...remove oil pump in a Ram truck while the engine is still in the truck: remove the front half of the oil pan bolts, only loosen the rear half, it will give you enough room to pivot the pan even on a 4x4 to get to the 10mm bolt on the oil pump pickup tube!. Last but not least the #3 thing you can do that you said we can't: You can indeed install the timing chain while the oil pump is still on and without removing the crank sprocket, the chain has plenty of slop before the tensioner is engaged to route your chain around both the cam and crank sprockets. And you can remove the tensioner assembly to recock it before pulling the pin. How do I know? I've done all 3 of these methods and I own a ram lol and I also cheaped out and bought rock auto lifters and had to do the job twice!
I was just wondering about the piston, did you just replace the 1 piston head? Just bought a 2013 Charger R/T 5.7L with 166,000 miles on it, expecting to have to repair something soon...lol. I really enjoy the details in the video, I feel like I know my car already.
Yep, just replaced the one bad piston. I've got more details on the newer style engine in my budget challenger build series if you want to check that out. 👍
Great video! One question for you if you don't mind! I am looking to replace the timing chain in my 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with a kit. My question is, if I line everything up as far as the markings and chain colors being correct, does this mean that it is on the correct stroke (compression is correct if I recall correctly) or do I have to take the head off to see the piston at TDC to make sure. I have also saw a few videos about a tool you put in the spark plug on the #1 cylinder. I have been trying to figure out if I can do this without taking the head off or using the special tool based on lining up the dots and purple chain links.
For sure it's a fairly simple process with the cylinder heads still on. Remove the front timing cover and spin the engine over until the vertical mark embossed into the cam sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. At this point you know the crankshaft is in the correct position, as long as you don't move the crank after this point then you're in good shape. When you put the new timing chain on, the camshaft sprocket timing mark pointing at 12 o'clock automatically puts it on the compression stroke (the crank doesn't care which stroke it is, the cam is the only difference) Align the new chain using the colored links and you're good to go 👍. The only tricky part about the Ram trucks is that you have to remove the oil pump, and to do so you have to remove the engine oil pan to remove the pickup tube. Let me know if any of that doesn't make sense.
Sorry to contact you on your youtube page. What 5.7 engines can I use in my 2016 Ram 1500 4X4? Wiped out cam bearings and need a replacemnt but not sure if the car 5.7 will be the same? I have good heads and basicly all the other stuff from my engine that I can put on replacement motor if needed. Just trying to get some advice on what will work? Thanks.... You have a great page also!!
Any truck engine from 09+ would be a direct fit, the long block anyway. The car engines would work, but there are a couple differences like the cam profile, and the fact that the car block is not drilled for the dipstick hole, drilling the block for the dipstick isn't too bad though if you want to take that on yourself.
In the non mds hemisphere that have cam and lifter failure, is the failure due to bad materials? I have a 2006 300c srt8 that is misfiring. I am planning on replacing it myself. After watching your videos it should be a lot easier. Thank you for all the info.
Honestly I'm not sure what the root cause is, I'd like to see more in-depth analysis, but that probably won't happen. The good thing about the Hemi engine is that it's a pretty basic engine, so you shouldn't have trouble repairing it. Glad I could help at least a little bit and thank you for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Uncle Tom put out two videos on what he thinks is the cause. Take a look at his videos about it if you will. I will like to hear your thoughts on what he said. Thank you.
Question i should know by now but I've never disabled mds an left the mds lifters until now lol. Im working on my brother in laws 05 chrysler 300c an I'm removing the mds solenoids an adding the plugs an disabling mds via tuner. The mds lifters would then prime up the same as the rest right? Since mds won't be able to activeate. I was checking your video for reference an thought about it when you mentioned the lifters. Thanks in advance.
Richard, unless you're replacing the lifters with non MDS ones you will want to leave the solenoids in place, otherwise full oil pressure will reach the MDS lifters and it'll be in 4-cyl mode at all times.
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for the info I definitely won't be pulling them then an will inform my brother in law why. Thank you again for the information an extremely quick response.
I saw a video the guy got to the pick up tube on the oil pump by removing the right side timing tensioner, which allowed the room to remove the bolt on his 5.7 truck...
Buy a bottle of prolong and submerge your lifters bearings in that, the additive bonds molecularly to the metal I used AMZoil and prolong oil additive on my 2007 Dodge 1500 5.7 hemi the tick has gone away and my needle bearings are saturated even when at idle they're not coated in oil due to an the nature of hemi design angle of lifters She's my daily work truck and 140+ miles per day with 1000 pounds of tools and gear everyday... My round trip costs me $15-$20 a day in fuel depending on the honeydo list after working
If you want to dip your lifters, I've got no problem with that, but you should NOT bleed the air out by submerging the lifters in oil for an extended period of time. Not only is it unnecessary because you can "prime" the engine after assembly which will fill the lifters anyway, AND you run the risk of "jacking" a hydraulic lifter if it hasn't bled off excess oil when motor is assembled or cranked over. If that happens pushrods or valves can bend, pistons can be damaged. I've seen it happen.
Thank you for these videos. I pulled out my grand Cherokee HEMI last night and pulled the heads. Next is a complete teardown because #1 piston was completely gone. Just a wrist pin. My # 8 looked like, I believe your #2. I’ll be going through these videos multiple times I’m sure. What did you end up replacing? I have a doner engine too. What’s reusable and what must be ordered, and from who? Parts list? Assembly lube? What you did in house and what you sent to machine shop? Any suggestions, tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated. I’m still trying to find the one person on here that will share everything. Thank you 🙏
I ended up replacing the #8 piston/rod and just performed a light hone of the cylinders to bring them back to good condition. I reused the rod and main bearings since they were in good shape. You must replace the head gaskets, I would definitely recommend replacing the valve cover gaskets, the intake gaskets, the front timing cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, the oil pickup tube seal, and the rear main seal while you have it all apart. Definitely use assembly lube, it's available from parts stores for pretty cheap like $10. I didn't do any machine shop work because the cylinder bores, the scoring was light enough to be removed just using a 3-stone hone. I'd be worried though if your piston disintegrated entirely that your cylinder scoring will be much worse. The general rule of thumb is if you can catch the markings with your fingernail, the block will have to be bored or honed. If they are deep enough that the block must be bored, you'll have to purchase oversize pistons, and everything gets more expensive. In my opinion, if the block is that bad, just find another block to use. I myself prefer the OEM parts from the dealer, but I know the cost sometimes is prohibitive. After working at dealers for almost 20 years, I genuniely beleive the parts quality is much better than aftermarket, but it does come at a cost. I appreciate you watching, and I hope the videos help on your project! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I appreciate the prompt reply 🙏. That block is definitely needing a trip to the machine shop. My doner is stripped clean and honed already. Just need to get after it. Thank you for the recommendations, I’ll be making a parts list tonight while on shift. How crucial is keeping main caps in order? 😡 I may have mixed them while cleaning. Once again, thank you 🙏
At the end of the video you mentioned that you can pull the camshaft without removing the heads...... how do you get the camshaft out without removing the lifters?
I show it in a different video, but essentially you just have to remove the rocker arms and pushrods then spin the camshaft by hand a couple times to knock the lifters back into the bores, then slip the cam out. I'm not a huge fan of this version for a couple reasons: most of the time I'm replacing a cam it's because the lifters have failed and need to be replaced anyway, also if the lifters slide back down the bores before you get the new cam in place you're in real trouble. Lastly, it's really not that much extra work to remove the heads anyway. But it certainly can be done!
Well, I do have one more question. I have the engine out and on a stand right now. I replaced the rear main today. Next the oil pan and timing cover and water pump need to go on. What should the procedure be to install these three at the same time so the timing cover and or the oil pan does not interfere with each other. Thanks again.
To be honest I've never tried it without taking the heads off, but I'm pretty sure it can be done. Just remove the rocker arms from the heads, spin the camshaft 720 degrees to make sure all the lifters are pushed back and then pull the cam. Would I feel comfortable that they wouldn't then slip forward and fall down? Probably not 😄 I'm definitely more comfortable taking the heads off to do a cam swap, but you're likely to be changing valve springs with a cam swap anyway right?
Perfect explanation of timing the engine. Some diagrams online have the colored links swapped (top to bottom) found the answer in a shop manual, then I found your video. Great content.
Old thread, so this may not help you, but the answer is MAYBE. It depends on whether the new cam is stock & based on the same cam core, ground with same "base circle". If it's aftermarket, it probably will be ground with a different base circle, which would require new pushrods.
@@ReignitedAuto ok thank you. I've changed my cam in my 05 magnum rt an didnt degree it an was talking to my uncle about putting a cam in my Chrysler 300c an he mentioned that I needed to degree it an I must have gotten lucky before thanks again 🤘
Fergawdsake, screw something into the cam bolt hole, so you can control the cam while you're inserting it into the cam bearings! You could use a short piece of all-thread into the new cam, and screw the now exposed end of the all thread into your old scrap cam. Then you have a balancing point and you can use the old cam like a big handle/lever to more easily control the insertion of the new cam so you don't nick or raise burrs on the cam bearings.
Thanks for your amazingly good info videos👏 I'm rebuilding my 2014 5.7 in my Ram having trouble with finding the torque specs for the main cap bolts. I'm finding either 40 then 85 or 20 the 90° turn also do i need to buy new main bolts. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🍻
Did you use the original rings on the pistons or did you get a new set? Newbie to this stuff. And FYI I’m going to rebuild the same engine for an early Jeep truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 👍
I used the original rings on this particular build, but the latest series on my channel is showing all of this in much more detail! Check out the latest videos on the channel to see it 👍, lots of engine specific stuff in the next three videos coming out.
Some people say they can by bending the pickup tube a bit. But that's a little too jank for my tastes. Besides which it's not that much more work to drop the pan enough to get the pump off. 👍
Before removing the camshaft you spin it 720 degrees and this knocks the lifters back far enough to remove the cam. Of course you have to remove the rocker arms and pushrods to do this.
Awesome videos sir! Question: if I’m having lifter failure, do I need to change the lifters as well as the camshaft, or can I just replace the lifters??
I just replaced my lifters on a 2008 Chrysler Aspen 5.7 hemi as one had a hard knock on cold starts that got worse over time. The rollers and needle bearings were still perfect and a quick check down the lifter bores to inspect the cam all looked good. Roller cams don’t have to be replaced with the lifters like the non roller cams as they don’t have wear patterns to worry about. Reuse the cam if you can unless it’s a real high miler and may be safer if it starts to fatigue, but I think with proper oil changes and good 5w20 oil it will go along time. I have 172000 km on this unit and lifters were changed previously under warranty at 70000 km.
I did actually try it once before, it's a huge pain. There's a lot of things that you have to buy to make it work. New pushrods, new intake manifold ect... Wasn't worth it in my opinion.
@@ReignitedAuto that would be a great video to do in the future. There's a huge community that want more info about this build but no video in detail of how to. I find forums that have info but not complete steps and parts required. Great job on the videos you have out. Lots of info in detail. Keep it up
i just did my cam, lifters and oil pump on my 1500, i actually installed a 6.2L pump, i managed to leave the oil can on but man it was a job. the only thing i didn't do tho, when i changed my timing chain and sproket is that i didn't pay attention to the marks on the chain. the engine was timed tho. is it an issue ?
After every rotation should the 12 o clock position dimple always be a 12 with 1st cylinder up also when placing the heads back on do I leave cylinder 1 at Tdc
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C and recently had to replace timing chain tensioner. I was told that it may be off by one tooth based off a P0016 code. Is this a job that can be done without taking the engine out? Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Hey Jon, you can verify timing by removing the front cover and also removing the oil pump assembly. At first it seems like you won't be able to remove the oil pump because of the pickup tube, but by removingthe oil pump bolts you can rotate the pump enough to get the pickup tube bolt out. Then just let the pickup tube rest in the oil pan while you adjust the timing. 👍
I purchased a truck recently. It just came back from the mechanic and was told that the cam was replaced due to a cam failure when I was looking to buy it. I liked it so I bought it. I have zero experience in actually knowing what the hemi tick actually sounds like. It ticked imo since the start and sounds like a lifter tick. I have never heard the engine run without a tick. I replaced the headers with bbk shorty headers and arp manifold bolts. I replaced the gaskets and didn't hear any difference when I replaced the gaskets and short headers. Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the lifters and because Im removing the heads get them milled at a machine shop or do a full cam / lifter replacement.
Hey man, your videos have helped me a lot in my rebuild. My mds lifters go up and down but the non mds all of them don’t budge when pushing with the push rod, is this normal or does it mean it’s bad?
This is the FIRST video I've watched that I actually understand how to set timing on a Hemi 5.7. Thank you for this explanation, you're a very good teacher.
Appreciate it Andre, thanks for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAutoyou’ll truly be missed 😢
Thank you for mentioning the colored links changing position. Every time I'd set the timing chain with cam dot at 12o'clock between the two colored links and crankshaft dot at 6'oclock centered on the single colored link I'd spin the motor and the links wouldnt be aligned with the dots anymore... Drove me nuts and I couldn't get past that point for a couple days. I feel so much better knowing that I've got it right now. Thanks to you. Seriously thank you
Glad to help 👍
Same here! Only video or post I’ve seen highlighting this. Thanks!
It was difficult but I did manage to change the oil pump out without dropping the oil pan mechanics wire works wonders as well awesome video
If you keep doing videos of this nature and builds like this. You are going to have a huge channel. I love learning this stuff. Thanks you for your time. Keep on your grind it’s going to be worth it.
Thanks for your support Nico! 💪
@@ReignitedAuto WHAT FOOT PUONDS. WAS THE CAM GEAR BOLT TORQUED TO .THAT WOULD HELP
I literally don’t think I could’ve done it, if it wasn’t for watching this video right here I would’ve had my 5.7 towed in to the dealer. You have saved me thousands and I greatly appreciate what you are doing on this channel!
Exactly what I want to hear 👏 good work man! 👍
He knows his Hemi's. He helped me when I did mine. I went and bought some of his merchandise. I wear it proudly.
I've recently had a lifter on cylinder 3 go bad and spoil my cam shaft. While my mechanic is doing the work, I've enjoyed following along by watching your video series here. Thanks for putting this out there.
It’s been hard finding good videos about these, now I feel more confident about working on my own 300, Thank you!
Awesome! That's exactly why I made the videos, hopefully to help some people out. Thank you for watching!
@@ReignitedAuto it’s a lot easier than it seems it would be hopefully doing a twin turbo setup fairly soon on my 300!
@@TanTanHoffy now that I would be interested in seeing 👍
The 5.7 is pretty easy to take apart most important thing is to remember how to put it back together I'm doing a rebuild on my 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7
Thanks for all the videos. This one clearly explained how the timing is set. Keep up the excellent work. Wish you all the best.
I had the dumb tick! Had a couple shops tell me its gona cost thousands! So I started watching you tube videos. I went an bought a couple tools, spent under $1000 on parts and tools total. I just got my cam back in. Still got everything else to do. But its coming along! Its not an easy job for a DIY guy but so far its doable. I wish i would have kept better track of the where almost the bolts on the timing cover goes. But gona try to figure it out when i get that far. Good luck and thanks for the video!
Great job tackling it on your own!
Great video. I was a little unsure about swapping my own cam, this gave me complete confidence.
These videos are awesome! It's great to have things presented so clearly. Keep them coming!
I appreciate that man, thank you for watching! 👍
What I do to install the cam much easier is I put the bolt on get a socket that fits the bolt with an extension bar and that gives me leverage to get it in all the way in. Try it! It's amazing lol
I happen to have a long bolt similar to what you did to get better leverage to put the cam in. Like your suggestion it worked great.
I used a long bolt that had the correct thread pattern on the end of the cam to give me better leverage to lift the cam in. A trick I learned from someone on LXForums.
Only video that really helped in setting my timing correctly from scratch on my 1500 hemi. Thanks! All I have to do now is start it and hope everything is good now. Keep up the great explanation videos 👍🏼💯
Watched a few videos yours is the best by far
Appreciate that! 👍
Thanks for mentioning the torque specs for the tensioner,the camshaft bolt, and the oil pump bolts...
I used to work at a local chrysler dealer in manitoba, me and the lead cummins tech used to be able to change oil pumps on 5.7 trucks and 6.4 3/4 tons with just removing the pick up tube bolt and manipulating the oil pump around the pick up tube as you said, its a huge pain in the ass but will save you dropping pan and windage tray and front diffs in 4x4s
I hear you there. I don't remember being able to do that on the trucks, but then as techs there are always going to be guys who can do a repair a certain way that you can never figure out 😄nice work! Appreciate you watching 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos, never have I found a youtube channel that is in depth into Chrysler products as you are, especially since I was also a Chrysler tech I can relate very easily to your method of explaining. Very good information on properly bleeding mds lifters, my brand new lifters were still noisy on cold starts because I have mds disabled with a tune and have never had the new lifters in mds mode, took the tune off and went down the highway and they are quiet as a brand new truck, never would have known that from all the lifter and cam jobs at the dealer since those vehicles still run mds regularly.
Did it in the 1500 without removing the oil pan but getting the pickup tube bolt to thread back on will be a hell of a job...not enough room to get your fingers in there. I used some fishing line wrapped on the threads to get the threads started on the oil pump. It wasn't a job for those short in patience...
@@DL101ca that's impressive!
@@ReignitedAuto not for my father listening to me curse while doing it... 😂
Next time I think I will just use a thinner bolt with a washer and a nut on top to reinstall the pickup tube or drill the oil pump threads out and just use a longer bolt with a nut. No sense in fighting with it.
How do you not have 100k subs by now this stuff is GOLD 👌🔥
Your videos have helped me get through my 2005 5.7 cherokee. But a suggestion I noticed you didn't mention in timing it is being 180 out. I just did mine and after doing the revolution my can was at 6 along with crank. It back off put cam back at 12 and good to go. I was wondering for a few days if this would happen and it sure did to me. Luckily I've been wrenching for 22 years on my stuff and been there before. This is the start to my motor building now I have lots of room, cars and all the proper tools
Man . I love all your videos thanks a bunch for sharing , great knowledge!
Very professional, great job, thank you for the video sir!
Thank you I appreciate it!
Good to know about the time and run cycle it takes for the lifters to fully pump up again it would be kinda scary and frustrating to start your newly rebuilt engine and hear a bunch of rattling!
It does rattle pretty good, you'll hear it on the startup video 😄
Great job Sir !!
Excellent way to explain how to set the timing and the importance of having the piston one on the top death point.
Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for watching Mike!
You almost made me cry watching you put that camshaft in. Take the box end on a combination wrench and screw a bolt through it that is part of your camshaft. Use the wrench as a handle. If you put the camshaft in before the crankshaft while it's upside down it is so easy! I always put the camshaft in first because it's so easy to reach to.
Good tip! 👍
very detailed videos, makes me very more confident on the 5.7 hemi chrysler 300c"s. thank you.
Appreciate the kind words, and thank you for watching! 👍
Best engine rebuild tutorial 👍
This is very informative, thank you!
Thank you for watching Dmitry!
I agree
Great job
Look forward to more hemi video
Fantastic video - very informative and thank you! 🙂🙂
Thanks for watching!
Is there just the one o ring for the oil pump..I assume the oil port between the 2 bolts holes are a press fit?
You are correct, just the one o-ring for the pickup tube, the oil pump itself seals to the block surface with no gaskets. Kinda strange I know, but it seems to work fine.
Thanks good sir....have had alot of engines apart especially toyota and ford's..but I'm a red sealed mechanic I'm nova Scotia Canada...and I had figured as much and it wasn't hard to tell from your video that you know shit and could be a reliable source....thanks alot my freind.
Your videos are excellent. Thank you very much. Subscribed.
I appreciate that man thank you! And I appreciate you watching 👍
Wow, you are still answering questions and helping people. Respect for that!
I have a question for you. What is the torque sequence for the timing cover and water pump?
Thanks.
There's not really a sequence per sae, I just install them all loosely before tightening them down, and the torque spec for both the water pump and timing case bolts is 21ftlbs. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Figured there wasn't a recommended sequence, since it's not mentioned in the FSM. Just seemed odd, so just wanted to make sure.
Thanks!
these videos are awesome! have a question. my Haynes repair manual has the single blue link aligned/on the camshaft sprocket mark and the two colored links straddling the crankshaft sprocket mark. does it matter? also saw another showing the same. please keep sharing
Nope, the links are just there to help you align the crank and cam during initial installation. As long as the crank timing mark is at 6 o clock, and the cam timing mark is at 12 o clock you're good to go. 👍
Great video a lot of great information.
You said in the beginning of the video make sure you go in snd out of mds mode. How do you do that? New to hemi. I’m going to attempt cam and lifter job with mds but worried about throwing it out of time. All the help is appreciated .
Where can i get reliable parts at a good price? Bad luck on my side. Kidneys failed on me and lifters and cam issue getting worse which causes power lose when i step on the gas. Haven’t worked in over 2 years. Positive side is i just received a transplant 10 months ago .
Looking for cheapest parts and what to order??
Thanks that was a very good video and nicely explain. I can now take on my 06 charger rebuild.
💪
How’d that go for you?
Very informative, I’m a middle aged diyer, but no experience on a rebuild, torque specs would be awesome as you go
Some of my newer videos I call out torque specs more often on the important bits. I'll be releasing a video in a couple weeks on a cam swap for a Hemi engine, and I'll have a lot of the torque specs mentioned in that video. 👍
Thanks for explaining clearly.
Thanks for watching!
@Reignited - Cycle and Automotive realize this is an old thread, but my question concerns replacing cams with heads installed. When removing old cam, won't lifters fall through or at least slide deeper into the block, hindering or possibly blocking new cam entering the block?
There is definitely that potential, but I did verify on one of my other engines that's is possible to replace the cam without removing the heads. The lifters themselves are pretty flat in the block, but they might slide forward a bit, you can use a long magnet to pull them back through the pushrod holes as you're reinstalling the camshaft 👍
What was the torque spec on the cam shaft bolt?
Thank you!!!!!!! You're the real MVP!!!
Haha, I'm a fan of the KD reference. Thanks for watching!
@@ReignitedAuto no problem at all. Keep the good content rolling.
love this engine
Absolute time saver! Thanks for this video!
If you wanna change the oil pump remove most of the oil pan bolts and use a pry bar. You can get it out. Did it on mine
As usual very instructional video, I got a bad lifter/ cam on my 2010 grand cherokee srt8 6.1 so now I'm in the process of replacing the camshaft, lifters, springs, steam seals etc and wanted to know if I should use normal oil or assembly lube to install the new cam and also what type of oil do you recommend for the new cam brake in procedure and for how long I have to run that oil before replacing it with the normal synthetic oil?? Thanks
At our shop the cam is installed first, with engine block sitting on the floor.
Save's all the banging on the cam bearings
Makes sense!
good idea
So easy explaining understand thankyou so march good luck
You are very welcome, and thank you for watching 👍
Is it necessary to replace the cam bolt when replacing the cam??
Nope, you can absolutely re-use the cam bolt.
I would of like to see you put the crank and pistons in
Check the previous videos in this playlist, or just check out my channel, I've got quite a few Hemi assembly videos 👍
Can I use this same timing technique on a 6.4? I’d like to do a MDS delete, add forged pistons, and Hellcat lifters in my 2015 Challenger SRT. Your channel is giving me confidence to do it myself. My goal is to prepare the engine to add a Hellcat supercharger.
Yep, timing is exactly the same on any Hemi 👍. Hope to see your car when it's done!
I will be attempting a cam and lifter install for my grand Cherokee 5.7 very soon… you mentioned you have to remove the oil pan for the truck, do you have to do this for the grand Cherokee as well?
What year is your Cherokee?
@@ReignitedAuto it is a 2012 grand Cherokee!
Just did a 17 ram 1500 lifters and cam without the removal of the oil pan so it is possible since you have to drop down the diff and jack up the motor to drop the pan
If you set the engine to TDC before removing the camshaft you're right it's not a big deal at all, just rest the timing chain off to the side and then when you're going back together it's just lining the cam sprocket at 12 o clock and you're good. I did this video about four years ago so I'm not even sure what I said in it 😄
Great videos! however 3 things that you said were not possible, actually ARE possible!
#1: you can swap the cam without taking the oil pump off to see timing marks, just make sure you put engine to top dead center first before disassembly. There are several ways to check this even blindly and that is: put engine to top dead center before disassembling the timing gear assembly, confirm by pulling the #1 cylinder plug and put at least an 8 inch plastic rod down the plug and slowly turn engine over until the rod levels out indicating piston tdc. Also can see cam reference points and crank keyway position in the 1 o clock postion to confirm you're tdc, along with the removal of the spark plug to confirm. If you have the heads off then you can plainly see the piston at tdc to confirm its position as well.
#2 possible thing you said you can't do but can...remove oil pump in a Ram truck while the engine is still in the truck: remove the front half of the oil pan bolts, only loosen the rear half, it will give you enough room to pivot the pan even on a 4x4 to get to the 10mm bolt on the oil pump pickup tube!.
Last but not least the #3 thing you can do that you said we can't: You can indeed install the timing chain while the oil pump is still on and without removing the crank sprocket, the chain has plenty of slop before the tensioner is engaged to route your chain around both the cam and crank sprockets. And you can remove the tensioner assembly to recock it before pulling the pin.
How do I know? I've done all 3 of these methods and I own a ram lol and I also cheaped out and bought rock auto lifters and had to do the job twice!
Thanks for the extra information! 👍
I was just wondering about the piston, did you just replace the 1 piston head? Just bought a 2013 Charger R/T 5.7L with 166,000 miles on it, expecting to have to repair something soon...lol. I really enjoy the details in the video, I feel like I know my car already.
Yep, just replaced the one bad piston. I've got more details on the newer style engine in my budget challenger build series if you want to check that out. 👍
Great video! One question for you if you don't mind! I am looking to replace the timing chain in my 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with a kit. My question is, if I line everything up as far as the markings and chain colors being correct, does this mean that it is on the correct stroke (compression is correct if I recall correctly) or do I have to take the head off to see the piston at TDC to make sure. I have also saw a few videos about a tool you put in the spark plug on the #1 cylinder. I have been trying to figure out if I can do this without taking the head off or using the special tool based on lining up the dots and purple chain links.
For sure it's a fairly simple process with the cylinder heads still on. Remove the front timing cover and spin the engine over until the vertical mark embossed into the cam sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. At this point you know the crankshaft is in the correct position, as long as you don't move the crank after this point then you're in good shape. When you put the new timing chain on, the camshaft sprocket timing mark pointing at 12 o'clock automatically puts it on the compression stroke (the crank doesn't care which stroke it is, the cam is the only difference) Align the new chain using the colored links and you're good to go 👍. The only tricky part about the Ram trucks is that you have to remove the oil pump, and to do so you have to remove the engine oil pan to remove the pickup tube. Let me know if any of that doesn't make sense.
Sorry to contact you on your youtube page. What 5.7 engines can I use in my 2016 Ram 1500 4X4? Wiped out cam bearings and need a replacemnt but not sure if the car 5.7 will be the same? I have good heads and basicly all the other stuff from my engine that I can put on replacement motor if needed. Just trying to get some advice on what will work? Thanks.... You have a great page also!!
Any truck engine from 09+ would be a direct fit, the long block anyway. The car engines would work, but there are a couple differences like the cam profile, and the fact that the car block is not drilled for the dipstick hole, drilling the block for the dipstick isn't too bad though if you want to take that on yourself.
In the non mds hemisphere that have cam and lifter failure, is the failure due to bad materials? I have a 2006 300c srt8 that is misfiring. I am planning on replacing it myself. After watching your videos it should be a lot easier. Thank you for all the info.
Honestly I'm not sure what the root cause is, I'd like to see more in-depth analysis, but that probably won't happen. The good thing about the Hemi engine is that it's a pretty basic engine, so you shouldn't have trouble repairing it. Glad I could help at least a little bit and thank you for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Uncle Tom put out two videos on what he thinks is the cause. Take a look at his videos about it if you will. I will like to hear your thoughts on what he said. Thank you.
Question i should know by now but I've never disabled mds an left the mds lifters until now lol. Im working on my brother in laws 05 chrysler 300c an I'm removing the mds solenoids an adding the plugs an disabling mds via tuner. The mds lifters would then prime up the same as the rest right? Since mds won't be able to activeate. I was checking your video for reference an thought about it when you mentioned the lifters. Thanks in advance.
Richard, unless you're replacing the lifters with non MDS ones you will want to leave the solenoids in place, otherwise full oil pressure will reach the MDS lifters and it'll be in 4-cyl mode at all times.
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for the info I definitely won't be pulling them then an will inform my brother in law why. Thank you again for the information an extremely quick response.
Great video! But how were you able to tighten the sprocket bolt from the cam without it moving
Best option is to access the flex plate and stick something in there to keep it from rotating while you tighten the bolt 👍
I saw a video the guy got to the pick up tube on the oil pump by removing the right side timing tensioner, which allowed the room to remove the bolt on his 5.7 truck...
Getting that oil pump pickup tube bolt BACK IN is the hard part.
Some engine builders submerge the lifters in oil on a heat pad or in a oven before installing. This is to prime the lifters for the initial fire up.
Absolutely that's a good procedure. As a flat rate tech though, sometimes ya just gotta get it back together 😄 Thanks for watching! 👍
Buy a bottle of prolong and submerge your lifters bearings in that, the additive bonds molecularly to the metal I used AMZoil and prolong oil additive on my 2007 Dodge 1500 5.7 hemi the tick has gone away and my needle bearings are saturated even when at idle they're not coated in oil due to an the nature of hemi design angle of lifters
She's my daily work truck and 140+ miles per day with 1000 pounds of tools and gear everyday... My round trip costs me $15-$20 a day in fuel depending on the honeydo list after working
If you want to dip your lifters, I've got no problem with that, but you should NOT bleed the air out by submerging the lifters in oil for an extended period of time. Not only is it unnecessary because you can "prime" the engine after assembly which will fill the lifters anyway, AND you run the risk of "jacking" a hydraulic lifter if it hasn't bled off excess oil when motor is assembled or cranked over. If that happens pushrods or valves can bend, pistons can be damaged. I've seen it happen.
Thank you for these videos.
I pulled out my grand Cherokee HEMI last night and pulled the heads. Next is a complete teardown because #1 piston was completely gone. Just a wrist pin. My # 8 looked like, I believe your #2. I’ll be going through these videos multiple times I’m sure. What did you end up replacing? I have a doner engine too. What’s reusable and what must be ordered, and from who? Parts list? Assembly lube? What you did in house and what you sent to machine shop? Any suggestions, tips and tricks will be greatly appreciated. I’m still trying to find the one person on here that will share everything. Thank you 🙏
I ended up replacing the #8 piston/rod and just performed a light hone of the cylinders to bring them back to good condition. I reused the rod and main bearings since they were in good shape. You must replace the head gaskets, I would definitely recommend replacing the valve cover gaskets, the intake gaskets, the front timing cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, the oil pickup tube seal, and the rear main seal while you have it all apart. Definitely use assembly lube, it's available from parts stores for pretty cheap like $10. I didn't do any machine shop work because the cylinder bores, the scoring was light enough to be removed just using a 3-stone hone. I'd be worried though if your piston disintegrated entirely that your cylinder scoring will be much worse. The general rule of thumb is if you can catch the markings with your fingernail, the block will have to be bored or honed. If they are deep enough that the block must be bored, you'll have to purchase oversize pistons, and everything gets more expensive. In my opinion, if the block is that bad, just find another block to use. I myself prefer the OEM parts from the dealer, but I know the cost sometimes is prohibitive. After working at dealers for almost 20 years, I genuniely beleive the parts quality is much better than aftermarket, but it does come at a cost. I appreciate you watching, and I hope the videos help on your project! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I appreciate the prompt reply 🙏.
That block is definitely needing a trip to the machine shop. My doner is stripped clean and honed already. Just need to get after it. Thank you for the recommendations, I’ll be making a parts list tonight while on shift. How crucial is keeping main caps in order? 😡 I may have mixed them while cleaning.
Once again, thank you 🙏
Also appears you have a wealth of knowledge. Now I’m wishing we were neighbors
@@jasonkeith674 it's critical they be kept in order, but lucky you, they should be stamped so you know which is which 👍
@@jasonkeith674 just have time invested, that's all it takes
At the end of the video you mentioned that you can pull the camshaft without removing the heads...... how do you get the camshaft out without removing the lifters?
I show it in a different video, but essentially you just have to remove the rocker arms and pushrods then spin the camshaft by hand a couple times to knock the lifters back into the bores, then slip the cam out. I'm not a huge fan of this version for a couple reasons: most of the time I'm replacing a cam it's because the lifters have failed and need to be replaced anyway, also if the lifters slide back down the bores before you get the new cam in place you're in real trouble. Lastly, it's really not that much extra work to remove the heads anyway.
But it certainly can be done!
Lifter collapse happens as well,just check for rocker arm play.
Can you retime by just taking off the chain and the two things setting it and then putting it back on ?
So the mark on the phaser doesn't split the 2 marks on the chain?
Will this timing method work on my 2011 dodge ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and thank you so much for making this video
Yep, it'll work on your 2011 no problem 👍. I appreciate you watching!
when rebuilding a 5.7 hemi do you think that upgrading to a high volume or high pressure oil pump would help with the cam oiling problem?
I do, in fact I'm releasing a video soon about installing a hellcat oil pump which is higher volume to help alleviate this issue. 👍
Do torque specs for tensioner and guide bolts differ from truck to car applications or are they the same?
Same 👍
Well, I do have one more question. I have the engine out and on a stand right now. I replaced the rear main today. Next the oil pan and timing cover and water pump need to go on. What should the procedure be to install these three at the same time so the timing cover and or the oil pan does not interfere with each other.
Thanks again.
Great job on the video thank you.
Thanks for watching Peter 👍
how do you keep lifters up for a cam swap in the car or truck
To be honest I've never tried it without taking the heads off, but I'm pretty sure it can be done. Just remove the rocker arms from the heads, spin the camshaft 720 degrees to make sure all the lifters are pushed back and then pull the cam. Would I feel comfortable that they wouldn't then slip forward and fall down? Probably not 😄 I'm definitely more comfortable taking the heads off to do a cam swap, but you're likely to be changing valve springs with a cam swap anyway right?
You make things look too simple sometimes......kinda makes me sick!😁 I'm learning a lot from every video.👍
Thanks my man! This one might be a little dry though, need to amp up the energy!
Perfect explanation of timing the engine. Some diagrams online have the colored links swapped (top to bottom) found the answer in a shop manual, then I found your video. Great content.
When you do a lifter cam replacement do you have to replace Pushrods too?
Nope, they are fine to reuse.
Check and make sure they're not bent or worn out of spec.
Old thread, so this may not help you, but the answer is MAYBE. It depends on whether the new cam is stock & based on the same cam core, ground with same "base circle". If it's aftermarket, it probably will be ground with a different base circle, which would require new pushrods.
One question, where did the replacement piston come from?
It was a new replacement rod/piston direct from the dealer. I'm a former tech so I still get good parts pricing from the dealer 👍
If you did put a cam and lifters in. What would u go with to give better power. I have 06 dodge charger
How important is it to degree your cam after install. I ben hearing different things.
There's basically no way to do so on the Hemi engine, either it's in time, or it isn't. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto ok thank you. I've changed my cam in my 05 magnum rt an didnt degree it an was talking to my uncle about putting a cam in my Chrysler 300c an he mentioned that I needed to degree it an I must have gotten lucky before thanks again 🤘
Fergawdsake, screw something into the cam bolt hole, so you can control the cam while you're inserting it into the cam bearings! You could use a short piece of all-thread into the new cam, and screw the now exposed end of the all thread into your old scrap cam. Then you have a balancing point and you can use the old cam like a big handle/lever to more easily control the insertion of the new cam so you don't nick or raise burrs on the cam bearings.
Thanks for your amazingly good info videos👏 I'm rebuilding my 2014 5.7 in my Ram having trouble with finding the torque specs for the main cap bolts. I'm finding either 40 then 85 or 20 the 90° turn also do i need to buy new main bolts. Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏🍻
good info
I had a problem with torquing the cam sprocket bolt. How do you do it, are you holding the crank bolt while torquing the sprocket bolt
Best option is to access the flex plate and stick a pry bar in the teeth to keep it from rotating 👍
@@ReignitedAuto so don't worry about the timing chain tensioner collapsing all the way. Thanks
@@ronjakober4949 As long as it doesn't jump a tooth it's fine lol.
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the answers. Much appreciated
What a simple timing chain system.. no wonder they never fail
Great video!
Did you use the original rings on the pistons or did you get a new set? Newbie to this stuff. And FYI I’m going to rebuild the same engine for an early Jeep truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated! 👍
I used the original rings on this particular build, but the latest series on my channel is showing all of this in much more detail! Check out the latest videos on the channel to see it 👍, lots of engine specific stuff in the next three videos coming out.
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks man! I really appreciate it. And thanks for explaining every aspect of your builds. Best to you and your channel. 👍
I have to replace a timing chain on my 2010 Jeep Commander.
Can I get the oil pump off of this Eagle Hemi or will I need to drop the oil pan?
Some people say they can by bending the pickup tube a bit. But that's a little too jank for my tastes. Besides which it's not that much more work to drop the pan enough to get the pump off. 👍
You said it was possible to do a cam swap without pulling heads? How would you get lifters up high enough to clear cam lobes?
Before removing the camshaft you spin it 720 degrees and this knocks the lifters back far enough to remove the cam. Of course you have to remove the rocker arms and pushrods to do this.
Awesome videos sir! Question: if I’m having lifter failure, do I need to change the lifters as well as the camshaft, or can I just replace the lifters??
I just replaced my lifters on a 2008 Chrysler Aspen 5.7 hemi as one had a hard knock on cold starts that got worse over time. The rollers and needle bearings were still perfect and a quick check down the lifter bores to inspect the cam all looked good. Roller cams don’t have to be replaced with the lifters like the non roller cams as they don’t have wear patterns to worry about. Reuse the cam if you can unless it’s a real high miler and may be safer if it starts to fatigue, but I think with proper oil changes and good 5w20 oil it will go along time. I have 172000 km on this unit and lifters were changed previously under warranty at 70000 km.
Have you ever done the eagle hemi heads on pre eagle block swap? Any recommendations, if so?
I did actually try it once before, it's a huge pain. There's a lot of things that you have to buy to make it work. New pushrods, new intake manifold ect... Wasn't worth it in my opinion.
I have all the parts but am worried the pushrod size. Didn't know if you remember the pushrod size
@@adrianortiz5085 I don't, but the factory pushrods from the newer engine should work.
@@ReignitedAuto that would be a great video to do in the future. There's a huge community that want more info about this build but no video in detail of how to. I find forums that have info but not complete steps and parts required. Great job on the videos you have out. Lots of info in detail. Keep it up
@@adrianortiz5085 I've got an '06 block that needs a cylinder head, thanks for the suggestion 👍
Show prices, and torque specs, please. Love what you are doing. THANKS.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cam swap video coming up soon on the channel, I'll try to list all the important bits on that one 👍
i just did my cam, lifters and oil pump on my 1500, i actually installed a 6.2L pump, i managed to leave the oil can on but man it was a job. the only thing i didn't do tho, when i changed my timing chain and sproket is that i didn't pay attention to the marks on the chain. the engine was timed tho. is it an issue ?
Nah, the plated links are only used as a guide to time the engine, after that they don't matter 👍
After every rotation should the 12 o clock position dimple always be a 12 with 1st cylinder up also when placing the heads back on do I leave cylinder 1 at Tdc
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C and recently had to replace timing chain tensioner. I was told that it may be off by one tooth based off a P0016 code. Is this a job that can be done without taking the engine out? Any tips or advice would be much appreciated!
Hey Jon, you can verify timing by removing the front cover and also removing the oil pump assembly. At first it seems like you won't be able to remove the oil pump because of the pickup tube, but by removingthe oil pump bolts you can rotate the pump enough to get the pickup tube bolt out. Then just let the pickup tube rest in the oil pan while you adjust the timing. 👍
I purchased a truck recently. It just came back from the mechanic and was told that the cam was replaced due to a cam failure when I was looking to buy it. I liked it so I bought it. I have zero experience in actually knowing what the hemi tick actually sounds like. It ticked imo since the start and sounds like a lifter tick. I have never heard the engine run without a tick. I replaced the headers with bbk shorty headers and arp manifold bolts. I replaced the gaskets and didn't hear any difference when I replaced the gaskets and short headers. Do you think it would be a good idea to replace the lifters and because Im removing the heads get them milled at a machine shop or do a full cam / lifter replacement.
Hi sir,
I starting to rebuild the 6.1, i would like to ask to you. if i need to release the pressure of the valve lifter?
Thank you brother from iraq
Good job
WOW.. Great Video! what cleaner do you recommend for the heads
For cleaning the heads themselves, or for cleaning the gasket surfaces?
@@ReignitedAuto Gasket surface. Thank you
@@Hugo_Umana I use the red Roloc discs on a 90 degree sanding wheel. 👍
Hey man, your videos have helped me a lot in my rebuild. My mds lifters go up and down but the non mds all of them don’t budge when pushing with the push rod, is this normal or does it mean it’s bad?
Totally normal, the hydraulic portion of the lifter is still pumped up with oil, and it'll feel solid 👍
You are awesome bro