5.7 HEMI Lifter Failure Could this FIX the lifter issue FOREVER?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey guys, revisiting the 5.7 HEMI lifter failure video I made a couple months ago. I wanted to address many off the comments that I got from the last video, and I really wanted to show you an idea I had after investigating the issue further. I hope you watch the whole video and more importantly, I hope you learn something you didn't know beforehand! This lifter failure issue is a big talking point among Mopar fans and the more information we all have about it the better off we are. People are talking about this being a Fatal Flaw, and I just don't believe that to be the case due to the relatively small number of cases overall.
Thanks so much for watching and I appreciate all your comments! Keep them coming!
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Please watch my NEWEST video to get the very latest info on this issue!
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Love your videos man!! I have a 2014 grand cherokee with 5.7, what's your opinion on the idea that running a thicker oil (instead of the 5w-20) will help prevent the lifter failure tick?
Great teaching, I'm learning things about my new Ram truck
Engine
I have my 05 ram hemi with almost 400,000 miles for 16 years and it's still running strong! Only things replaced have been water pump and fuel pump. Love my hemi!
Those first gen 3 Hemis were pretty good!
214,000 on my '06 in my WK. Great engine, just thirsty!
What oil you using?
what oil you you using*
My 2012 lifters destroyed the shaft. 8,100 dollars for the new engine
THANK YOU! You are the FIRST person I've come across who ACTUALLY explains HOW mds FUNCTIONS. Most explanations just say, "Oh, 4 cylinders are deactivated by the computer using solenoids." That doesn't tell me squat! I want(ed) to know HOW the cylinders are shut off (mechanically) and you showed me that. Kudos to you sir, thank you so much!
I appreciate you watching! 👍
My guy here just spitting out business decision facts that nobody wants to hear ha. Most people that complain about the lifter issue (the 5% of you) all think they are so super special and because they are complaining about, Chrysler should then spend tens of millions of dollars to fix it for that 5% lmao
@@nexpro6118 honestly feel like if people didnt baby their trucks/cars keeping it under 3000 rpm, they wouldn't have problems LMAOO
@@DylanPorto45 lol.
Can I get rid of the MDS system on my 08 charger 5.7? I have a po300 code . everything is working new plugs coil injectors O2 sensors.i don't think it's the cam .I'm thinking computer or fuel pump ?
Love this explanation. First time Ram owner but lifelong car enthusiast. So I obviously research the crap out of things like this. What I couldn't wrap my head around is the only 5% failure. Mostly due to me following a ton of fb pages for the 4th gen Ram, and it seemed like every other member has had a lifter failure. So it seems like 5% is pretty low compared to what I see just on fb enthusiasts pages, where we generally overmaintain our vehicles.
But if your theory is correct, this would make sense . I would say that 80-90% of members turn off the mds manually with the gear selector, myself included because we hate the sound and are under the assumption that it doesn't harm, or helps with the lifter issue. So this whole time, while trying to prevent the issue, we have been doing the opposite and starving the lifter. This would actually make a lot of sense
So actually it’s worse to use the gear selector?
Hmmm ? Failure rate of 5% ? I say due to people I know the failure rate is much higher ! Most failures happen at 110,000 miles and above. One fellow I know had his cam fail at 40,000 miles on his Scat Pack !
I would really be curious to know how many owners continue to properly maintain their vehicles after the warranty expires. Newer vehicles are plagued by problems related to poor maintenance. Theses newer vehicles especially rely on a minimum oil pressure or they self destruct; meaning as they age oil changes become much more important. These 5.7 l msd engines must run on synthetic oil with a maximum of 5000 miles between oil changes Chrysler says maximum of 10,000 which I would not trust (the change oil light will usually come on much sooner than that).
5% failure rate is probably only under warranty period. These lifter cam failures are extremely high just over 100k miles. Engines today with synthetic oil, fuel injection, computerized engine monitoring and regulating should get a minimum of 300k miles before catastrophic engine failure occurs. The 5.7 hemi engine will not do that and I know because I am about to have my second lifter/camshaft failure on my 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 hemi engine with 255K miles. First failure was at 154K and you couldn't get lifters because they had backorders of more than 20,000 sets. That's when you know there is a problem. I believe it is an oiling problem as well as a camshaft and lifter specification problem.
I’ll estimate maybe 10% of HEMI owners are “enthusiasts” enough to regular FB communities, with no data other than the people I’ve encountered over the years. So if half of them have lifter issues then the 5% is pretty accurate. Also, it’s estimated only half of vehicles produced are still on the road beyond 120k miles, so there is that variable as well.
Excellent explanation, without yelling or bragging how much more you know than the other guy. Love this kind of content. Subbed.
Thanks man I appreciate that, hope I can continue to deliver for you! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto hi I was wondering I posted up a video on my channel I don’t know if it’s a bad lifter or exhaust manifold bolt that broke can you check out the video and let me know thank you
@@ReignitedAuto
So with block off plate instead, which bores will be pressured? I'm guessing only once with mds? Is there oil passeges for non mds liftes too?
@@nikoz4841 the oil passages go to each pair of cylinders, so one with MDS and one without. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto
I'm assuming solinoids are not on / off type, it's more like slow flow for lubrication wnen mds not active and high flow when mds activated. If you look at Honda's vtec system, it passes some oil for lubrication when vtec isn't active and opens fill oil flow to activate vtec pins. Thanks for your response
Hey guys, I wanted to clarify something because I've gotten a lot of comments about this: I don't think I was clear enough in the video, but I don't believe that the lifter bores don't get ANY oil when the MDS isn't activated, rather I meant that when the MDS solenoids are activated the lifter bores receive PRESSURIZED oil flow. Hope that clears things up! Appreciate all the feedback guys, keep it coming 👍
My belief is these people are making a mistake with there motor... don’t pull the dip stick & check the oil before you park ... check your oil before you start your car .... make sure you use a quality filter designed for your motor... “so I use dealer filters “ also to stop ✋ a dry start make shore the system is closed when pouring the old in the crankcase.... fill the crankcase with a study flow when you’re filling ... also guy’s it would help to fill the oil filter with oil before u put the filter on .... love your videos 😎😎😎😎
Love the way you explain MDS .....😎😎😎😎
Awesome video...... 👍👍👍....
@@leonardsmith8475 I always filled the new filter with oil, but when doing my first oil change in my 2020 ram hemi I noticed the new filter (puralator boss) says not to prime it with oil. Checked the old mopar filter and it also doesn't say anything about priming it with oil so I didn't do it.
The 5.7 is ment to be rebuilt
Interesting video. I’ve had my 03 hemi ram since new. I noticed a ticking just after a few thousand miles. The dealership shop said it was normal and it persisted until just after 200,000 miles. It now has 215,000 miles and it’s completely gone. It runs as good as ever and the ticking is gone. I have always used mobile1 full synthetic and a K&N oil filter from its first oil change till now. Always 5w-30 I don’t know how or why it went away, but it did. 🤣😂🤣😂🤣. 18 years down and I hope many more to come.
Those first gen Hemi's were pretty solid! 👍
I have a 2003 5.7 in TX that I bought used around 98k. They changed the lifter kits and springs as they where broken and gas Mileage sucked. But the thing is a beast now. I wasn’t mechanically inclined then, but this is the most informative video I have found. Bravo señor, look forward for more videos.
Appreciate you watching!
There's actually more than just safety recalls. Back in the 90's, when I was a Chrysler tech (20+ years), we had to change radio knobs under a customer satisfaction recall. We also had to change vent valves on fuel tanks due to emissions. I JUST got done replacing my cam and lifters. The MDS lifters were the bum ones and ate the cam. I deleted the MDS and used non MDS lifters with a regular cam. No more problems! The cam manufacturer that I discussed this with stated that GM and Chrysler were having a problem was the needle bearings seizing. Good video
You might have answered my question. I made a comment too and I have a GM engine with AFM. I've decided its better to run without it. I keep my transmission in 5th gear manual mode which locks out the AFM. It still uses 1-5th gears as needed. My rpm is 2,100 at 65 mph which is as fast as I normally run. It will go faster! Trust me. I don't like four cylinders flopping around doing nothing and I still get 26mpg on the highway! I'm old and a ex drag racer. Mopar 340 SuperStocks!
With regards to the needle bearings seizing, could that possibly be due to not frequent enough oil changes and contamination getting in there destroying them?
@@TeknoVkng I teach automotive at a local high school and my truck is used to show oil chamges. Every 3000 miles, more than enough!
@ Dale Ezzell, I remember Chrysler honoring a recall of the early (Late 70's) Dodge Omnis & Plymouth Horizons because of some faulty final drive components in the trans-axle assy. Those cars also had recalls because of poor alternator case grounding... Both of those recalls were done, free of charge... Things have changed drastically between Now and back then... It is one of the many reasons WHY I'm not interested in buying a new car anymore... Over-engineered, over-complicated, and over-priced...
Thanks for the info
Interesting idea you presented. I was told by people that race new Gen Hemis (1 guy worked for SRT for several yrs) that the fix on ALL 5.7s, and 6.1s that DO NOT have MDS, is to use the updated HellCat ( also used in 392s) lifter. They are stronger and have been redesigned where the roller does not fail. They say to continue to use a top quality synthetic oil, changed at about 4k. For those with MDS, there is no update at this time.
I like the theory gives you full v8 power at all times, no horrible sounding aftermarket exhaust from dropping into 4cylinder mode and all the while giving better oiling, someone needs to make this happen!
Another thing to check when the cam/lifter is replaced is to change the VVT solenoid. There are screens in there that catch the stuff from the cam/lifter destruction and will make their own ticking noise. The screens also get brittle and come apart on their own.
Good point! I forgot to put that in there. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ReignitedAuto So there is a Tech bulletin out on that and the VVT solenoid has been redesigned with perforated stainless steel instead of the wire mesh.
I know this comment is a year old at this point.....but wouldnt the vvt solenoid come BEFORE the lifter? And in saying that wouldnt it come AFTER the main engine oil filter? I assumed that any material wiped off the cam would fall into the oil pan and be filtered by the oil filter before being sent back around and into the vvt solenoid?
I had a 2014 Ram that developed a lifter tick around 101,000 miles. I was shocked because I changed oil every 5000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic oil & filter. As soon as I heard the ticking, I changed my oil and put 1 qt of Marvelous Mystery oil, I was thinking it must be gum or tarnish causing the lifter tick, then I started researching the tick online and that's when I found out it is a common problem and when I saw the fix of standard lifters and removing the solenoids I figured that the redirection of oil supply must be the problem. FYI- The MMO treatment did seam to clear my ticking problem over a short period. Long story short, I cut bait, traded that truck in for a newer truck ( Not Dodge either!) I suspect if you eliminated the MDS soon enough it may prevent a costly repair. Just my 2 cents.
There is another video of a mechanic that says that the lifter failure is not related to long oil change intervals. He has seen failures on trucks that were on a service schedule. I am going to put 5,000 miles on my 2010 300c and send the oil in for analysis. I don't idle my engines for more than a couple of minutes before driving. I also have a 2014 Ram with the 5.7, I have my fingers crossed!
I have a better solution for lifter tick . Use my Turbofield Nano Treatment and solve your problem for long long time . Treated many trucks with great results
@@terrylarson7596 before I traded my Ram in I went to NAPA to look into an oil sample kit. The parts guy told me they are going through tons of cam and lifters for the local police cars. Since they idle a lot the lifters get very little lubrication. I also saw another video that explained how the solenoids work. When the engine has all cylinders firing the solenoids block off the oil galley. It’s oil pressure that deactivates the lifters. He suggested doing away with MDS install caps in place of the solenoids and reprogram the computer so it doesn’t look for solenoids
My 2014 also failed at 101000. Had to replace the engine in 2020. New engine now has 140k on it with no issues
Wow - Great hemi lifter video! I have had this conversation with an experienced Hemi tech still working at a dealer and he was NOT in the camp of there being a design flaw. He did confirm though that Hemi and LS engines that are fleet / service vehicles with excessive hours at idle will likely have MDS / DOD lifter issues and wiped cams. Most lifter jobs he did were on police pursuit Chargers or fleet pickups. So what about dummies like me who just tune out the MDS without replacing the lifters or blocking off the solenoids? Am I helping or hurting my engine? I tuned them out because the exhaust drone was horrible and I don’t drive my charger enough to worry about MPG (want my horses there full time)
I don't think you'll have any issues with it. Like you mentioned, most of the problems come from excessive idling. Usually chargers/challengers that are driven in a sporty fashion don't seem to have the same issues. Thanks for watching! 👍
I drive a 2008 jeep grand cherokee with the 5.7 hemi and i tuned off the MDS two months ago and have no issues yet, also i speak to a guy that did the same thing and no issues, it been three years sinces he tuned off the MDS
How did you turn off the MDS, with a tuner?
@@markleonard5604 I have the Diablo tuner, an unlocked PCM and a custom tune. No issues with MDS turned off for 3 years. If you start modding your car for power gains unlocking your PCM for 2017 and newer vehicles is required. Diablo Platinum EX has a setting to turn it off or you can get a custom tune to shut it off.
Was planning to buy a Ram now that you convinced me to get a tundra and forget all the ram and the problems it’s going through:)
Lol, search TH-cam with this, 2022 Toyota Tundra engine failure, 2023 and 2024 Tundras included.
Even the 5.7 has issues like this too in the Toyota fewer then ram but they are there
@@mattcummings6325I mean aren’t all non hybrid Tundra engines subject to recall?
You've got quite a few excellent observations, and as a powertrain engineer that daily drives a high mileage Hemi ('08 300 6.1L with 110k), I've been looking into prolonging its life. As some people have stated, vehicles with VVT and lots of idle hours (police Chargers, fleet Rams, etc) are the most commonly afflicted with lifter problems, but no Hemi is immune. Looking at the factory PCM tunes for the common Hemis, they tend to target a 500-550 RPM hot idle speed with 5W-20 oil. This is done to ensure the lowest emissions in these bread-and-butter engines. Meanwhile in non-MDS Hemis, they target a 700-725 RPM idle and mandate a 0W-40 Synthetic oil, and SRT engineers put out a TSB saying 15W-50 Synthetic was okay in warmer climates (TSB 09-011-06). As you can imagine, low emissions are not as much of a priority for these low production SRT and manual trans vehicles, so the engineers can recommend what the engine actually needs.
So if you wanted to improve longevity, I'd start with the easiest thing: tuning in a higher idle speed for more oil pressure, and using thicker synthetic oil. And for more in-depth hardware changes, ditching the solenoids like you said and possibly switching to the high-volume SRT or even Melling oil pumps.
I'm not sure if it's wise to use non-MDS lifters on an MDS cam. Typically, a deactivating lifter collapses faster/further than a non-deactivating lifter. To compensate for this, a deac cam lobe will have an additional 4-7° duration at 0.050" tappet lift, sometimes 60° or more additional duration at 0.006" tappet lift, and an additional 0.25 mm of valve lift. I'd imagine using the same style lifters on all cylinders with an MDS cam would put the engine out of balance with half the cylinders making more power than the other half. But it may not be a big deal.
Sorry to put an essay in your youtube video lol
Wow, fantastic info on this one, hope you don't mind I'm going to pin this comment 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Absolutely, go right ahead. The idle speeds I posted are sourced from factory stock PCM calibrations read with HP Tuners, and the MDS camshaft numbers are based on GM Gen III - V small blocks with DoD. I haven't seen any cam doctor results from Hemi cams, but I'd be surprised if they're super different.
Fun fact about GM's cylinder deac: every version of it turns off cylinders 1, 4, 6, & 7 except the new Corvette's LT2. The LT2 deactivates cylinders 2, 3, 5, & 8. Makes you wonder if there's some NVH from DoD that changes when the engine moves from in front of the cabin to behind.
@@mikezobl9602 I love weird stuff like that, appreciate the info 👍
I have the 6.4 in my 16 power wagon. At idle 550rpm my oil pressure is over 40psi hot. And it doesn’tt vary much. It goes up to 55psi at high rpm. I use the Penzoil 0-40 synthetic. So pressure isn’t an issue and at $9 a quart it better protect
What happens if instead of ditching the solenoids, you deactivate the solenoids by limiting the gear shift to the 7th gear instead of lettung it go all the way to the 8th? Any negative effect on the engine itself or the transmission?
Good points. A couple items to consider: Did you notice that the connecting rods don't have traditional squirters to oil the opposite bore and reciprocating assembly? Maybe this also contributes to a loss of cam and lifter lube. Some of the engines have fixed block squirters, but not all of them; and those are just for the bores. The old way slings and squirts the oil in all directions. Also, you have to use the thin oil because the new engines are close bearing tolerance engines. Finally I noticed Jasper has videos where they are fixing the valve seat issue and other issues. I think the factory could make a few changes without re-tooling. Also, a video by MMX shows how defectively designed aftermarket lifters can dump the oil pressure as they move up and down. It's pretty interesting. Observations of an Engineer. Shalom
I'll take a look at that MMX video, thanks! 👍
Also the raised cam bore, and the cast in oil galley tube blocks oil sling to help lube the roller camshaft/lifters.
Great video sir. MOST videos don't go into depth on HOW a system works. You have and that's super valuable. I have a Hemi on a RAM 1500 and #7 is deactivated. I'm trying to figure out what's causing this. The system keeps burning up the coil on #7 and the time it takes keeps getting shorter and shorter. I'm also getting an overvoltage code. I'm trying to figure out what sends the voltage to the coil to see if that part has failed, etc.
This most important fact about all "engine stuff" was left out. That is that the US government and the EPA work endlessly to make sure Americans have the most INEFFICIENT engines the world has ever seen. They devise mechanical systems like the one in this video to give consumers the illusion that they will get better fuel economy, when in fact the system doesn't even need to exist. We have had the technology for DECADES to make an engine equal size to this Hemi get 100 mph no problem. But, they like our money... and nothing else.
Nice explanation! I'm an old, out of practice A&P mech and this system is definitely genius! I also believe the problem lies in your lack of lubrication theory. I hope someone will test this out further or at least compile a ratio of mds to non-mds lifter/cam damage to compare. Thanks for the video! 👍
Thanks for watching!👍
Don't both the MDS in the solid lifter get the same lubrication in MDS because the pins deadhead in and they have the same pressure as the non MDS one so they would be getting oil pressure the same
If not that lack of oil, what else would cause the excessive wear on the mds roller bearings and the mds cam lobes only? Perhaps it's a simple as the mds lifter being allowed to collapse and not function as a solid, sliding lifter throwing oil around? Or maybe my thinking is off. Wouldn't be the first time...
In the 2016 production FCA quietly upgraded the lifters adding stronger roller needle bearings. The tolerances require using the correct oil. Use synthetic. Change oil often. Some of the failures have been equated to high idle time on the engine.
For sure! Check out my previous video on this issue for more information regarding the idle time, and thank you for watching 👍
If this is the case then that's pathetic people would expect damage from Beating up a motor but, stuck in Detroit or LA traffic ? I believe it though
@@dh4094 Check out my previous video for more info, the excessive idle wouldn't be like getting stuck in traffic, more like letting the vehicle sit and idle for hours at a time like fleet vehicles do. Thanks for watching 👍
Love to hear more information on this upgrade. Just bought a 2021 Ram and I’m wondering now about my decision. Also using wrong oil weight may void the warranty right?
As extra insurance I use a high zinc level racing oil, I noticed when I switched from Mobil 1 High Mileage to Royal Purple on another vehicle that developed a tick that it went away with the high zinc oil. The oil is around $18 a quart and if you don't want to spend that much Lucas makes a zinc additive that does the same. The oil is only part of it, you need to buy at least a Wix Xp filter or just buy a K&N oil filter. I only use the K&N due to its micron number which catches everything.
I too use LUCAS additive when doing oil changes. Quiets it down.
Got to be the best video explaining this issue I've found yet.
Thanks for watching!
Ok I had my cam and lifters replaced about 4 months back. A personal friend of mine that is the director of service for 4 dodge dealerships in California told me this. We on the average have two or 3 of these repairs ongoing in each and every dealership. Sounds a lot more common than 5% of them.
Change oil... full synthetic 5W-30 and filter every 5K Mike's and avoid any internal engine wear that's not normal (bearing wear etc)
On every video that has to do with the Dodge Chrysler product or hemi engine, there’s a Ford guy. This is that guy paid by Ford to draw attention from Ford being the most recalled vehicle on the planet this guy does not own a dodge pro where he had the cam and lifter replaced. He’s a liar.
@@davidmckinley7468on the ones we serviced from new, we ran 15w50 full synth Esther based oil with zinc and haven't had a fail yet. Way too much load on three pissy needles at a time with sewing machine oil viscosity. And to top it off, the cars that were rebuilt after the cam lifter mods tragedy we're done non mods and we're more economical. It wasn't about economy, it was Nox level reduction during certification.
@@AmericanSurvival001funny that, we haven't seen a lifter cam fail in a coyote from cylinder deactivation, but sure done a few Chevy AFM and Chrysler mds engines.
This failure scares the crap outta me. Running a 2012 300 c 5.7 with 145,000 on it. Thinking of repower with 5.7 or 6.4 from manual car with tune. Off topic had camshaft position sensor failure come up changed it and failed again. Instead of changing again I just replaced main cpu ordered online with all updates and it fixed problems. Great channel. I will pay close attention to you from now on.
I appreciate you watching!
You're info and how you're helping all of us is doing a tremendous service sharing your wisdom and hard earned experience. Thank You!!
I’ve prolly watched 50+ videos on this is by far the best one so far and very professional especially for a smaller channel👍
I appreciate you watching Keil! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Yes I agree. This ,out of all the videos watched and articles read, actually has a SOLUTION....not just covering same problem that we all already know exists. I've never seen it explained so well like this. EXCELLENT video. I just subscribed
I think that the block off plug for the solenoid valve is basically doing what you are suggesting with setting the mds on at all times. That would be a normally closed solenoid and then open to allow oil flow when mds is activated. That block off plate is just keeping oil from dumping out of the top of the bore unless I'm not seeing it correctly.
You are indeed correct! This video is a few years old now and I've done quite a bit of further research into this issue. If you'd like to see some more current information check out the video in the pinned comment at the top. 👍
It’s opposite
I just bought a 2013 5.7 with 230000 kms on it. Has some noise in top end but dash says 29 idle hrs. 5000 total hrs. For a few yrs now I’ve been cooking Borax in my oil. Seems to clean out carbon build up and turns back time on my engines. I’ll see how it works in this case. Thanks for your video..😊
Borax???
You literally addressed the comments from the former video!! That's awesome, I feel like you directly made this video in reply to my long winded comment as I'm sure others do as well , you have a great personality to pull that off my friend , thanks for the video il be looking forward to more from this channel.
Thanks man I appreciate that! Honestly the feedback from viewers has been really enjoyable, lots more actual discussion than I expected. Thank you again for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I have to say I'm impressed with your analysis here, in my former comment I stated the issues I have dealt with were from construction trucks that idle ALOT and I as well mental pictured the high cam and wide lifters with the drains located as they are as being a big ticket problem but your idea really takes it that much further with the MDS explanation....great detective work to all😉 I see this channel bring forth a great deal of good information in the future with folks consolidating experience and ideas.
This is all related to oil temp, oil condition, idle time and OIL TEMP! If you are running at full tilt (drag strip, towing all the time) you need a oil cooler with remote radiator! Problem solved! Some do have a problem with weak springs, again maybe do to heat, that cause the lifter to bounce on the lobe causing the failure of the needle bearings in the rollers. Almost all of the one's I changed for noise had the roller plating failed, most came in with misfire problems. Once the plating fails it is just a matter of time before the cam wears or the roller fails. And 90% of them was cylinder 5, non mds lifter, and highest heat area when running in mds mode or not. 30yr chry tech! I have seen the same thing on other engines with rollers used in drag racing. And there is a TSB but it only applies to police vehicles, and just says check the cam for misfire problems.
Man oh man….what a GREAT detailed explanation of this issue! Thanks for posting this. I was riveted the whole 26 mins. I just bought a 1200 mile 2010 Chally auto and have been told if I drive it in Autostick the MDS won’t activate…therefore NOT jolting the timing chain and not having to worry about breaking the plastic factory tensioner. But now u have me re-thinking this because with the MDS off I’m not ever getting the better lubrication to the lifters and bores. Hmmmmm…. There is a recall available on my car for the timing chain tensioner upgrade (to aluminum) but I’m hesitant to open up the front of the motor for this and create leaks, as this car is basically brand new and SUPER CLEAN under there! Any thoughts on this would be VERY APPRECIATED from an old MOPAR tech!!!! 👍🏻😎💪🏻 Thanks a million ahead of time!
I was wondering what percentage of Hemi’s had this problem. Thank you for answering that question and several others that I had.
I do have to say that this is just based off of my own experiences as a dealership tech, these are not official numbers at all. But from what I can tell it's fairly accurate. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto well mines been sitting since 2012 due to the MDS issue... and i cant afford to buy the new lifters and cam to fix the problem so my 05 only had a few years of use before everything went to s#!t on it and burned out 2 lifters and messed up the cam... Chrysler refused to fix the issue before it got that bad and now that it went to that point they refused to touch it and im stuck with one of the last units manufactured by the Daimler Chrysler corp. before they went separate ways. a big reason why i will never buy a dodge or chrysler ever again
@@PENDULUMAAOD1 There's a pretty interesting story about Daimler exiting from Chrysler. Now with Fiat in charge its meet the new boss, same as the old boss. Part of the reason why I no longer work for them.
@@PENDULUMAAOD1 HMMM, my 04 Dodge 1500 I bought new, still running like new 200k miles. The best truck I have ever owned, and yes I have driven many brands, started driving mid 60's
@@ReignitedAuto Dang, you worked for Chisler as a tech ?
I'm sorry for your loss, of time, $, and life.Of all dealer techs, word is they get hosed the most . Ball joint warranty job for .5 ? No thanks. At least you have skills to make $ off em now. Question: how do you remove d/s ex manifold from jeep grand Cherokee hemi ?
i have a 2014 6.4L and its been running great. But I do change my oil twice as often. I have 198,000km on it
I have had a 2004 hemi truck since new. The truck has 255,000 miles on it. Used 10-30 oil. No problems AT ALL. Now I purchased a 2020 hemi truck and 8,000 miles on it. The people who last changed my oil showed me that the engine claims it suppose to have 10-20. This is the second oil change and it was shown that they used 10-30 without instructing me of that. Now, I am confused. I will go back to the 10-20 next time. But, you have been instructive. Thanks.
Thanks for watching George!
my chrysler 07 has a slight hemi tick at 1000-1500 rpm i rev my car to 2000 rpm and it goes away saw a video saying that at 2k rpm it lubricates the cam better and so far its been working
Is yours an MDS ? My understanding was it was 09 when it came out. I have a 17 300 Hemi, and the Wife has an 09 Ram. The truck has had 2 camshafts in 90k. We recently switched to Amsoil, and the engines have never sounded better.
I'm with you on your idea, and another to consider, is replace the MDS activated lifters with regular ones, but creat a MDS solenoid eliminator. Basically a block plate, and forego the lifter plates.
I've read people have unplugged solenoid 7
I’ve got 5-w30 on in my 5.7 and it runs great and is definitely more whole.
What year? And does it have cylinder deactivation?
does it have MDS?
We use 5 w 30 as well on our 5.7 RT with MDS. I have never heard the MDS kick on until 3 months ago. Other than that she runs strong. We are planning on doing a cam shaft and lifter upgrade soon. Glad we found this dude because I am so ready to deactivate that MDS it's beyond annoying.
Awesome video! Thanks for making it. I just bought my first RAM 1500, I've always been a Ford fan, but when it comes to trucks not so much anymore. My Grandfather lived and died by Ford, and is most likely rolling over in his grave right about now. I found your video very informative, this whole MDS is new to me, and your video went a long way to explain how it worked. Now, I'm going to cross my fingers and hope that my truck isn't in that 5%.
I find brand loyalty to be a very annoying thing. All manufacturers get it right, and all of them get it wrong too. No need to restrict yourself, so good on you for branching out! I hope the Hemi treats you well, I still think the ram truck with a Hemi is one of the best options right now. 👍
Hello Sky, New subscriber here, Love your videos! I found your channel while trying to do some diagnostic research. I have an '06 Magnum RT AWD with the 5.7. She has 130K on her and until last week has been whisper quiet as far as engine noise. I do 90% of the repair work on the car but have used JL to do almost 100% of the oil changes. Last month I replaced the original alternator and the oil pressure switch which had given me a P0520 code. I also had a failing cat, and the exhaust from the cats back was also original. I had my local mechanic replace the exhaust and change the oil. A few hundred miles later I wake up to a low oil pressure light. The EVIC showed no pressure. I checked the oil and the level was fine. restarted the car and light was off pressure increased with the rpm's. I drove my son to the train station (10min) trip. on my way home the low pressure light would come on at idle. No noise, no performance issues. I drove her home and parked her. the next morning I got up and went to check on the light. again it was on , but this time it didn't go off with increased rpms. I let the motor idle while I tried to think what the hell could the problem be, bad switch? Shit that's a PITA to get to. While I was thinking the top started to clatter, I shut her down and thought, OK, she's not getting oil.....WTF? any idea what I should be looking at? I know i specified 5w20 to my mech, could it be that JL has been using a heavier weight? coincidence that the oil pump just up and failed? any insight or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.... I just tossed 4K into the exhaust, alternator and switch repairs and would hate to loose it. Thanks !
If it's clattering up top it's likely that the oil pressure sensor is reading properly. But it's always good to double check. If you have access to an oil pressure gauge you can hook it up where the stock sensor screws into the block and verify the oil pressure. If it is low, the next easiest thing to check is to remove the engine oil pan and take the pickup tube off to inspect the o-ring. If the o-ring is OK then unfortunately at that point it's probably time for an engine. It's not common for these engines to have super low oil pressure like that so I hope it's something more simple than that.
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the reply....since dropping the pan is a PITA on the AWD magnum, I opted to pull the timing cover, that's where I found the problem. the tensioner failed and the plate cracked and was riding on the crank gear... metal shavings caused the relief valve in the pump to stay open. there was a shard of that metal in the pan and very little else. The oil filter seemed to have caught the majority of any metal. hopefully preventing it from getting too far into the engine. I'm hoping to flush with kerosene install new TC assembly, Melling HV oil pump and a new water pump. I can't seem to find links for the "o" ring gaskets for the metal heater tubes (where they enter the water pump) any sources or links for those? and any other caveats you could think of would be greatly appreciated. also a link to the reignited merch.... need a hoodie and some stickers for the magnum (once shes running) Thanks! Peace, Ant
A much simpler repair would be to install lifters from Johnson lifters with axle oiling. but as of yet they do not make MDS lifters.
MDS delete kit
Because extended idling time causes this, I no longer drive my pickup when getting Whataburger from their drive thru. :)
I let mine idle too long a few times. Now I'm using a non MDS cam with Hellcat lifters. Currently in the process of repairing now.
@@Dandoesit66 also you can use the gear down method. It shuts off the mds. I do it for my Ram 2014 express 4x4
Until covid restrictions and drive thru was the only option, I would always park and go inside to get fast food.
Your explanations are clear and well in depth, much appreciated. You’re the Chrisfix Hemi edition for some of us!
I just discovered your channel, apparently just after you left Austin where I’ve lived forever. I love the fact that you clearly explained how MDS works, and pointed out that the MDS delete plugs provide constant oil pressure to the bores of all 16 lifters. Most people seem to miss this when looking at lifter failures, and ESPECIALLY they seem to ignore that all manual transmission Hemis come with those plugs and no MDS Right from the factory. So this begs a question: do manual transmission Hemi cars (Challengers) see fewer failures per vehicle mile? What was your observation as a dealer tech?
Same question for thicker oil. All 6.4/392 Hemis in Challengers (automatic or manual) spec 0w40 oil instead of 5w20 like the 5.7. Does the much thicker 0w40 prevent or reduce lifter failures? The data should be out there, had anyone LOOKED at it?
From what I’ve read, the lifter issues are far more common on the Ram trucks, someone please correct me if I’m wrong. If this is the case, you could be on to something. I was in a Challenger club for a number of years. A handful of the cars in the club had MDS failures. All of us eventually turned MDS off using a tuner but I’m not aware of anyone changing to the plugs, none of us had any issues. I have a 2014 Ram truck with less than 60k miles that seems to have the lifter issue and trying to determine how best to solve the issue as I’d like to hold on to the truck for as long as possible.
@@christracy130 I have a 2014 Ram as well and it just started with lifter issues recently. Still drives the same for now just loud ticking. Please let us know which direction you choose, because I'm at a crossroad on this myself.
@@kuntryboi867 my issue ended up being the exhaust manifolds. It took a couple of mechanic shops to properly diagnose but is a relatively easy fix. I hope your is the same
@@christracy130 Thanks and glad it was fixed. I replaced the manifold, gasket, and bolts. Ticking is still there. I changed to Redline 5w30 last week and will give it some miles to see if anything changes.
I have an 09 ram 1500 hemi with 230k miles and have used 10w30 during winter and 10w40 during summer and no lifter failure until now
My buddy has an 09 hemi pushing 280k no lifter issue, his transmission was swapped though
@jose... is your MDS still functioning using 10w40? Im planning to use your same oil
@@jandysanchez yes still working good no issues with trans either but I do have a shift kit from sonnax my oil pressure its 40 at idle
I have a 2019 Ram 2500 Power Wagon 6.4 and it’s starting to make tapping noises at idle.
After watching this I think if I could do something I would drill through all of the lifter passages like adding a MDS oil port to each lifter. Get a tune and turn on MDS at only idle. Then you ensure your get oil at low RPM to all lifters and drip it down to the camps and roller.
Since I did notice after driving and coming to a stop the noise is gone. So the theory of lubrications while driving maybe true but at idle it lacks oil.
Anyways thanks for the info I will keep following my problem and probably take it to the dealer once I prove the issue is repeatable. I hope I don’t need an engine replacement at 15 k miles !
That was a great video! Explaining a possible reason for the failure of the lifters and cam. Makes a lot of sense. Keep up the great work. I personally find it very interesting as well.
Thanks man I appreciate you watching! 👍
5% of vehicles is way low. I hear two of my lifters starting to fail at 54k. My guess is that 5% number is only from the ones you saw in the shop. I bet that number is actually way higher, this issue probably affects any 5.7 Hemi driven around a city with a lot of red lights and idling.
I have a 15 Challenger RT.6 spd. I'm starting to hear rattle in the eng on hard acceleration...2nd to 3rd. Was this your issue at 1st?
I have a 2019 ram with 42k and lifter just started ticking.
@@michaelmurphy9548 is the warranty 60k or 100k miles?
@@embraceblack53 i had this issue, It sounded like beads bouncing around. After research turned out it was the gas. i was using 87 and getting enging knock. I switched to 89 and went away
Thank you for this video. Finaly someone explained in the profesional way. Tons of crap in the internet..... Use this oil, use that oil, to stop hemi tick. Now i see that the only way to stop it, is the mechanic, and not magic oil. I am owner of ticking hemi and it drives me crazy. I'm from Poland and i doubt that i can find mechanic who can handle with it in profesional way. After this video i know that mechanics in my area.... they can clean your shoes.
Haha, well I appreciate your words but I'm just another dude. Thank you for watching the video and I hope you can find a mechanic who will help you properly! 👍
Thanks for taking the time out and explaining why my lifters are ticking like a bomb. I did not know the full function of the MDS but now I have a bit of knowledge. My question is on the actual replacement of the lifters. I am very novice but I am mechanically inclined and have worked on minor motor repairs. Needless to say, I don’t own a Cherry Picker. Ha. So I don’t have a ton of money in the line of work my career path has taken me, so I have to try and do repairs myself. My Police Tahoe has something similar I noticed when patrolling, it drops from 8 to 4 cylinders to save fuel. Give your opinion on a scale 1-10 10 hardest, the difficulty on replacing the lifters. Can one be changed or do all or just the set of 4? I don’t have a garage to work in and I have limited tools. I believe I have the Haynes book on the car as well. Tell me if this is strictly a service mechanic job due to all the electronics or will it be as simple as me working on my old ‘87 Mustang Coupe with the 302? Thanks.
Any luck?
You're going to get into the engine you might have to replace all the lifters, but make sure that you submerge them in oil for at least 24 hours prior than doing it
That makes perfect sense .If you have Cam Loeb problems just on those cylinders with the MDS You nailed it
less than 5%.. I only know two guys that have Dodge trucks with the hemi , and both of them had the lifter problems... It Sucks
I have owned 4 cars with the Hemi motor, zero problems in MN. My father has right now 98,000 Miles. On his 2008 Ram 1500 4x4. It's only been inn the shop once. That was for a brake pads at 95,000 miles.
I know 5 gone bad, all newer with msd. Mine is ticking, and cold knock
Mine has no issues. I know a dozen people with a hemi with mds. None in my circle have had this issue. I have on the other hand known 3 people with the GM 6.0 that did NOT have afm/mds. Not a single one made it to 100k
I have 3 vehicles with 5.7 hemis. The 2015 Challenger has 40k miles has no hemi tick and runs great. I used 10-40 syn with a quart of lucas oil stabilizer on every 3-4 mile oil change.
My 300 has 170 k miles with the same oil procedure. This one runs perfect and gets a solid 21 mpg and has zero hemi tick.
My ram 1500 has 280 k miles. This is daily driver maintenance is pretty lack. I do not warm it up and the kicker is this thing has massive amount of idle time. I let it run in the summer all day long with A/C running and in winter it idles all day (8-10) hours. One winter win i had charging system issues i let it run for 4 days never shut it down between 10 mile trips to work. Out of this 96 hours the idle time was over 90 hours. This engine is still solid with zero hemi tick.
The biggest question i have is between the ram and the 300. The 300 gets a solid 21mpg and the ram struggles to get 12 mpg. In addition i drive the ram way easier than the 300.
I love your show, and have learned a lot about the Hemi "tick" that all the others don't address. I especially liked your new video about the "MELLING" oil pump upgrade. Tahnkx Jon
The 5.7 doesn’t like to be baby sat she loves high rpm
I support this statement. Drive it like it was meant to be driven 👍
Not saying your wrong. However I don't agree with this. I rarely let my 5.7 idle and did indeed give it high rpm rather often and I still experienced the lifter failure.
@@Jason4422Daddybear I do think are several factors involved, not just idle time. But for sure I could be wrong, like I said, im no engineer 🤔😄
@@Jason4422Daddybear I know, everyone says I let my truck idle too much..hell i know about these hemi issues and the only vehicles that I let idle for any length of time is my 2018 Duramax during the winter when Im pushing snow and waiting for the weather to figure what its doing. Either way, these Hemis have the problem no matter if your idling alot or not. I know way too many car enthusiasts who own hemis ( and other brands) and if its 09+ they seem to have the capacity to experience the problem.
@@beaches2mountains230 as I was pointing out idling isn't the only factor. As per your DuraMax well it's a diesel. It's designed to be able to idle till the end of time. I'm a truck driver and my truck idles nearly as much as it goes down the road and back.
Sep 2023 244k mi
I’ve driven this truck like is stolen since I brought it home from the showroom floor. Trans was replaced at 80k mi. The engine now consuming 1 quart of oil every 3k mi. Still runs and idles smooth.
Talk show host beware , I never fast forward a video ever until this guy
Man I have a hemi tick I don't know what to do I don't know what it is but you video it's helpful I've been watching your videos try to find out what it is in my truck thank you for your help
Hi, excellent information. I'd like to ask you about a 2008 Mercedes E320 Bluetec Diesel. Nobody know the solution about this problem: Turn on the car, after the engine is warmed, on P the engine keep running till the empty the tank, but when you put on D and drive the car, the car just shutting off from times to times, no reason. You can stop, turn the key off and turn on again and start to drive, so that will repeat ever. Thank you for your time.
Well shit... down the rabbit hole we go. My head just blew off and I just did the mds delete. Gonna check it out
Welcome to the rabbit hole, it was getting lonely down here 😄 Appreciate you watching! 👍
First and only bad Chrysler product I've had issues with is 2010 Sebring with the 2.7 V6 and the fact that they quit standing by their Lifetime Drivetrain Warranty on the 2007 Ram and at the same time discontinued a bumper to bumper add on that was purchased at the time of the vehicle purchase. Thankfully the 2007 is still running great, but the Chrysler service has been discontinued as far as I'm concerned. You are great on your presentation and I wish you were covering the 2.7 V6.
My dad is having lifter issues and this explains it well. Glad I don’t own a Hemi nor plan on it. No thanks
Very good info ! I always wondered if there was any resistance on the valve train while deactivated
Thanks for watching David!
you hit on some excellent points,i am lucky enough to have the hemi in 4 of my vehicles,the one in my 07 and 09 chargers have the minimal tick,my 2012 and 2017 are quiet as can be,that being said the mileage is vastly different between them all,and just like my harleys using differnet oils affect engine wear and noise,and if it gets bad enough ill take action,great channel bro really from one mechanic to another 🙌
I ask that you consider this. When the MDS lifters are activated, what replaces the oil pressure to keep the rollers tight to the cam, is the springs inside the lifters, and an engine turning lets say at 1500 RPM, it means that those springs are what is left to replace the oil pressure to keep the rollers tight against the cam and at 1500 RPM those springs are being pressed and depressed at the rate of 750 times per minutes and over a few hours of MDS activation, that will be millions of times these springs are pressed and depressed at the speed faster than the eyes could see. It becomes understandable that if they are not perfectly tempered well enough, over time, they will weaken and eventually fail to keep the roller tight against the cam, and once this happens, as the cam turns and the high lobe comes around, it will act like a bat and a ball against the roller and rather suddenly, we have the Hemi Tick. The cam lobe will no longer be keeping the roller turning, and as the roller is repeatedly hit by the high lobe at every turn of the cam, this will soon ruined the roller needle bearing in the roller and it is then inevitable that the roller bearing will fail and at the same time it is failing, eat away at the cam lobe.
Another problem as i see it, the oil pressure feeding the lifters comes through the block and into the heads by a very small space from a slightly over sized hole drilled into the the bottom of the pipe for the bolts that hold the rocker arm assembly to the cylinder head. This severely limit the amount of oil to the lifters and so it is that at idle, even a high volume pump will be producing very little volume, and it is likely that enough oil pressure is lost from crankshaft bearings to starve the lifters enough to become noisy and when they are noisy, it is because the rollers are not getting enough oil to keep them tight to the cam and that will naturally lead to lifters failing. I drill those bolt holes to a slightly large size so that oil can more easily get up to the lifters, and I also drilled the holes in the head gaskets that feeds oils to the heads, and I have had no problems at all, and no noise at all from the lifters. And because it is obvious that those lifters will use any dirt allowed to get to them, as a good excuse to fail to do what is expected from them, I also always remove the MDS solenoids, and clean the small magnets that are underneath the solenoids. Hope this might be of help to somebody
I have never had an issue with lifters on the multiple Hemis I've owned since 2006 outside of what I consider to be the service life of any engine. Two things, in my opinion, that made the difference. Change your oil at the factory recommended interval and don't leave them idling excessively. I've run all of them to at least 185,000 miles (300,000 KM). The only lifter failure I had was at 265,000 miles (425,000 KM) on a 2012 non MDS engine in a 3/4 ton work truck. I'm in Northern BC Canada.
It's a BIG TIME ISSUE WITH HEMIS THAT HAVE 75K MILES OR MORE.
It's a LOT more than 5%, bud.
Great video. If I could I would like to pick your brain for a minute. I have a 2021 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi. At 4400 miles I put the truck into the shop for a rough idle that feels like a miss but not turning on the CEL, poor fuel mileage, and lack of power. When the truck was new I was getting around 11 mpg in town and 15 to 17 on the highway. When I took it to the service department I was getting 5 to 6 in town and 12 to 13 on the highway. They wound up replacing the long block as per Star Case S1709000010. The new engine now has 1600 miles on it and still have the same symptoms as before. I checked the oil the other day and saw metal in the oil on the dipstick. They were very small pieces up to about the size of a piece of small glitter. The truck is back in the shop as I write this. It has been there for a week as of today and they haven't even looked at it. I thought rechecks took some kind of priority. Guess not.
I have a 2004 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi and i bought it new at the dealer and it has 255 thousand miles on it and runs like the day i bought it , only thing replaced on the motor was a EGR valve . like it so much I bought a 2013 new and a 2020 new with no issues so far.
Run 10/30 synthetic. No check engine light
At how many miles on the break in period ?
I have a 2015 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi. I've used Castrol 10/30 since 40k miles and a fram oil filter. On the last oil change I had to go to a different garage. They used the same oil but installed a Puralator oil filter. After 500 miles I developed the tic . I scrolled thru my instrument cluster to check the oil pressure and it was showing only 24psi at idle. I immediately switched the oil filter to a k&n high flow filter. I saw the oil pressure jump to 50psi at idle however the damage had already been done from the lack of proper oil pressure.
I got a small shop in Kentucky and about 80 percent of hemi motors have had problems dropping the valve seats and beating up the pistons and heads. Had a lot of em do that problem.
Bought my 2014 5.7 at 78k from a local painter (mostly town driving) less mds activation. After learning about lifter failure I disabled MDS at 99k. Currently at 126k Mobil1 x Wix XP every 5-5500miles. Just gapped a 2021 Chevy the other day. Hoping she holds another couple years
I use 10-30 full synthetic Castros for last 4 years. No problems at 112k miles on a 2006 5.7 hemi. Just changed the plugs and they were clean but a bit loose on gap.
It's simple. Just quit sitting around idling.
@Hybrid Libertarian esp if idling
You must live somplace warm year round. These failures are on working mans trucks
Love the way you think. Brilliant video. Thank you for posting.
I’m real happy with my 5.7L HEMI V8.
Smooth reliable drive. Jeep Chrysler done well :)
I own an 05 RAM HEMI with 150,000+ miles on it and I have changed my Oil at 7500 miles regularly using 6 to 1 ratio of 5W20 to Lucas additive and using a K&N Oil Filter. No issues and no tick at low rpm running. Just my results for your perusal
NIce, thanks for the feedback!
I've learned much from your videos. Their amazing. I've got the hemi tick on my 14 ram and that MDS has got to go. From what I've learned the cam is basically MDS set up as well on the MDS lobes, so getting non MDS lifters is not enough. I'm being told that the 2500s cam might work considering it's non MDS but has the VVT. What's your thoughts on that? Would swapping the 1500 cam for a 2500 cam work? So, basically swap the cam, buy the solenoid plugs and non MDS lifters. Would it need a tune or would the 2500 cam even work?
Mechanically there'd be no reason why the 2500 cam wouldn't work. But I don't have specifics about the cam specifications on the non MDS models to see if there's any overall difference in lift or duration. You could always go with a cam from a manual trans 5.7 Hemi, as those are non MDS as well.
I hit 200,000 and my lifer went out. I ran 10w30 the whole time. Now I run the correct oil. I bought some aftermarket lifters and a cam for a 2500 5.7 without the mds and I've got 60,000 on it now and it's doing great.
I Have Probably Watched this Video About 10 Times From Start To Finish. I am In the Process Of Fixing A 2006 5.7 Car That I Bought With A Tick, Initially Thinking it Was The Lifter and Chewed Up Cam Lobe. But after Disassembling and Removing the Cyl Head With the Tick Noise, I Found the Lifter Rollers were Surprisingly In good shape, The Cam Lobes Were Free Of Damage/Scoring/Wear which would indicate it was a Lifter/Cam Damage. However, I know It must be some kind of MDS Lifter Failure that Must have cause it. Some MDS Lifters didn't have its Pins In the Center, Some of them were Off Center Which I have seen somewhere another person had this issue where the MDS Lifter Pins Shifted and caused the Push Rod to Bed. So this one got REALLY Lucky... Anyhow, Seems like The Previous Owner Noticed it Early Enough and didn't run the engine any further.
So I have a plan to replace the MDS Lifters with Solid Lifters. And I Would like to determine if the MDS Solenoids are Ground Or Power Side Controlled?? So to Keep the Solenoids On All The Time as You suggested Would Be By Running a Ground Or Power That Comes On With Ignition On and Off With Ignition Off Separate from the PCM Controlled On/Off Regulating Circuit, In that way the Injectors and Spark Keep Firing normally... What do You think about that??
This was a great video. Your thesis on why there’s lifter problems makes total sense. I I wonder what the sacrifice is gas mileage wise if you deactivate the system? I’ve often wondered how often the system kicks in to four cylinders versus eight may be the cover that Because I need to get my lifters and camshaft replaced for about $4000 and the question came up did I want to deactivate the system.? I said I’m getting 18 to 24 miles to the gallon when I go down to 11 to 14? Nobody’s answered this question for me how often does a kick’n
You should check out some of my newer videos I've hit a lot more up to date information in them! According to Chrysler the MDS system is worth about 8% fuel mileage increase. With my 2005 Chrysler 300c AWD I get about 18mpg with no MDS. With that being said, I don't believe MDS is the culprit here and you should keep it if possible. 👍
Omgggggggg!!! This is amazing 🤩 need these u are a lifesaver I’ve always worked on my own cars well as much as I felt comfortable doing! After watching your videos I’ve taken parts off that I swore only the shop could do or a licensed professional! Man no bro I’m a beast and u are as well!!! It’s about confidence and let your minds and your hands do the rest! Much appreciated for all of your videos! I’m making a channel soon with my 18 RT Hemi!!! Let’s Gooooo!!! Dodge Gang!!!
Great info & right on the money with all of your points. People should watch how a car manufacturing assembly line is made. That will open a lot of peoples eyes on what the cost of changing production lines is.
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this well done video. 👍
Appreciate you watching it!
I've owned a 2007 300c in the pass, from 87k miles up into 235k miles. Never had lifter issues or dropped valves. I just simply let it warm up every morning for approx 5-6 mins, used the right oil, sometimes I would mix in some engine restore once a year in the oil or MMO and I didn't drive it at a 100mph daily. Hemi motors are great.
Very interesting take on keeping the oil pressure going to the lifter galleys! I replaced the timing chain on my 2005 Magnum 5.7 a few yrs back. Instead of replacing the oil pump while in there, I disassembled the pump and wet sanded the housings and gears until I only had .0005-.0007. in. clearance between housing and gears. Something I have done on other pumps before. Ever since doing that, I have had more pressure than stock even on the 5-20 oil, and as a result I always have the code for wrong viscosity oil! At least that does not trigger the check engine light. I have thought of using 0-15w but have not done so. Scott.👽
Thanks, interesting. But I'm having a hard time imagining how sanding would make a tighter clearance. Are you saying that you wanted MORE clearance?
@@terrysetter817he’s not sanding the gears but the plate, by doing this decreases the plate to gear clearance.
SOUNDS LIKE THE FIX TO ME. DODGE SHOULD PAY YOU FOR COMING UP WITH THAT IDEA. AWESOME REPORT ON THIS PROBLEM. THANKS FOR THE INFO. GOD BLESS YOU AND GOD BLESS TEXAS.
I have a 2011 ram 1500 with a Hemi. The cam and lifters failed at 80,000 miles. The service advisor at the dealership said this is a common problem they see a lot .
After watching the entire video it seems more like a volume of oil shortage than oil pressure. Increase the oil port sizes to increase the volume of oil and I think you will solve the problem.
You have to remember that pressure is simply a reflection of restriction to flow. Therefore if you increase the volume of oil going through the system you automatically will increase the pressure numbers. Check the pinned comment at the top for a more recent video with much more accurate data 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I ended up watching that after making the comment. I don't have a Hemi/FCA vehicle but I just like learning about other companies engines. You have very good videos.
Chevy has the same problem with their cylinder shut down. The old Magnum 5.2 and 5.9 engines didn't have cylinder shut down but their lifters didn't get a significant amount of oiling especially to the ones furthest from the oil source. They had a similar size if not smaller oil bore but the hole feeding the oil from the main galley to the lifter galley was smaller. Not a lot but enough that over time they would wear. Not suprising but also makes sense. They were hydraulic rollers so similar to the mds lifters but not solid until you got enough rpms to keep them pumped up.
I run a 2013 Charger RT Max AWD … 70 K miles not one problem … ever - it runs now better than new.
That is by far the most extensive explanation I’ve ever heard of how an MDS system works. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Hopefully some aftermarket vendor is watching this video and develops another way of solving this issue
Appreciate you watching James! 👍
My 2010 5.7 challenger with 200k on it still runs strong. Change the oil every 3000miles. I run the OE speck oil.
Right at 200k miles I have developed a slight lifter tap. I've used synthetic oil since day 1. Changing oil everything 10,000-12,000 miles
You are the best man ,
This guys makes sense , i have 2006 300c srt8 with bigger cam and exaust done , it was driving very well till today , i do service every 6000 km , but as the age of the car , it has done 300000 km with no engine problems , of course i changed so many parts on my own but thats the W N T of the vehicle , my car just started making that sound because i hit the exaust on the bumpy road , and it scraped the exaust really bad , i havent diagnose my car yet , trying to not to drive until i fix the problem otherwise it can be worse
Please guys any suggestions
As i think it could be exaust manifold because it hit the ground
Another thing noise didn't start straight away , it started after 2 or three days
Your Talking about a Hemi and you have a Cummins block to your right that awesome 🙂👍
I've used 0W-20 in winter and 5W-20 / 5W-30 in the summer without any problems in my '14 5.7. Haven't had the guts to try 10W-40 yet with how adamant FCA is that your engine will suffer, lol
My comment is that I have a charger 2007 and it's still running. It's got over 300,000 miles and it's still running so I have no issues with my engine. I guess I'm real happy with it car and it's still running hard everyday. That car drives to fort Worth Texas. I just keep it maintaining and keep it changing the oil. I don't have problems with hemmies so far. I have three hemmies six four in another one five seven in the pickup and I haven't have no issues because I change my oil pretty often. I do not let my oil go over 45%
Both the MDS and low idle are the problem. Losing oiling at idle is the source. Once mechanical damage starts it gets worse quickly.
I got a 03 hemi with 300k run 10 30 high mileage runs great still