Nice job. Probably can't do that on my cheap Grizzly combo mill/lathe. The tail stock doesn't seem to center properly unless it is tightened down. Of course then it can't slide. Oh well.
Forty years ago we used an eye bolt in the edge of the tail stock dead center of the ways and the carriage . A piece of chain with a hook and a connector to one eye bolt. We had lathes with 20ft beds . Our big lathe came from the navy and used for shafting for subs n ships. We rode the carriage one cut took a ten hour shift. It was about sixty ft bed and 48" chuck. But she could throw chips 3/4" wide.
I was thinking about this today Randy! I had a lot of holes to drill on the lathe. I ended up clamping the tail stock to the carriage. It worked fine but I think this will be in my future. Great to watch this video again 👍
Use this technique for chambering rifle barrels for years. I learned it from an old master that had been doing it for years. MUCH better feel and control with the carriage vs the tail stock wheel. Not under power of course, as the reamer must be cleared often. Snugging the tail stock is sufficient to prevent run out. I like the heim joints, you can run it with the cross slide in any position. Good job.
Hi Randy, just a thought, if you put a dowel pin, or the head of a bolt or an "L" shaped block, or anything to hang out and catch the end of the tool post holder, you don't have to rely on the set screws to hold the force. Thanks for the video!
Randy, Thanks for the shout out. I wanted to ad that on lighter Lathes if you cant pull straight from the spindle area of the tailstock to be careful that the rod does not want to lift the tailstock up off the bed ways. I think that would only be a problem with larger bits. Always nice to see a RRITS video. Have a great weekend my friend. Gary
Agreed...... came out awesome. Nice to see you making a super informative video. Especially like all the fancy captions and soothing upbeat background music. 👍👍😎👍👍. Can’t count how many times this past week I’ve used the new knocker I received from you recently. Sweet size. Thank you!
I have seen this done on bigger lathes before my question is what keeps the tailstock from bouncing around on the ways you can't really tighten up the drag nut sufficiently I don't think
Your subscribers are certainly a lot nicer than mine. If I would drill holes and do bevelling on handheld parts, they would be screaming their guts out at me. Nice video, loved the whole thing.
I'd been thinking on this one for a while. Century old engine lathes are not noted for having light components that are easy to move. I have T slots in the carriage, front & rear. So I'm considering making use of those for a simpler setup. A loop of light chain or cable, around the back end of the tailstock. Fix solid on one side/end, a stout hook on the other, for a quick disconnect. Spread the load on the carriage out, won't need to drill a hole in the tailstock. Keeps things original, easily going back to how it was before, if needed. Should work great with a Mr. Pete inspired auxiliary carriage power feed
That is a great idea there Randy. I have seen it done before myself. Beats cranking the tail stock chuck back and forth for a deep hole. I have been tappy tap taping things all over the place with my Randy Richard knocker. :👍😁
I saw that on old iron and tom lipton. I will be making one now, but why not use a tool post mounted chuck? Seems like the same idea, I imagine its just for the dro function, maybe feed rate for reamers.
That's a pretty cool trick! It looks like an alternate way you could have done it with that lathe is a link from the back of the tailstock to the back T slot in the carriage. Just put the same sort of bar in the T slot. That would have let you take the toolpost off if you needed more clearance for some part.
Right On Randy! 👍 That worked out perfect! Alright, another project I need to make in the shop. Thanks for the video. The screen shot intro was pretty slick too!
Absolutely A1 Randy, I caught Gary using his, and thought I'm definitely making me one too lol I do have a Morse taper 3 tool holder for mytool post, but the drag link is certainly a great way of doing it
I first saw the idea on Gary's channel. Then you mentioned him. I'm looking at my lathe to see how I can do that. It seems like a great idea. Nice to see the videos flowing Randy.
I first saw that on a Soviet era Russian lathe a goodly number of years ago, can't recall for sure but i may have mentioned it to Mr Wizard before he did his. The russky one had a hook on the cross slide and a loop on the tailstock. All you had to do to engage was to move the cross slide in.
If the pivots for the link were vertical instead of horizontal, with the tailstock locked, movement on the cross-slide would cause the carriage to move in an arc instead of a straight line. The radius would be the length between centers, and would yield a concave surface on the face of a part turned in the lathe.
Cool video, just a suggestion, your volumes need tweaking , I had trouble hearing you talking so I switched to earbuds and the the music started and I had to crank the volume way down
@@RRINTHESHOP Nice! Sailed with a few guys from Exxon; I think "Buzz" G. was Chief on her at one time. Hope she had a better plant than the Boston and Baltimore.
cool idea worth copying, say Randy your sound is pretty low. you always do an excellent job of explaining, but without your lavallier mic it's really hard to hear you even with the volume cranked way up. didn't you used to have one in previous videos?
Hi Randy, I don't know if it is just me, but you audio levels for your voice are really low. The music was at a normal level but your voice is difficult to hear and has been over the last number of videos. I can't eat chips when watching the videos or the crunching drowns you out LOL.
Nice simple way to get the job done! Take some time and listen to EngelsCoach Shop. He does the best job of combining music and video of anyone I have ever known. His music is peaceful and puts you totally at ease as you watch him do his magic.
Nice job. Probably can't do that on my cheap Grizzly combo mill/lathe. The tail stock doesn't seem to center properly unless it is tightened down. Of course then it can't slide. Oh well.
Forty years ago we used an eye bolt in the edge of the tail stock dead center of the ways and the carriage . A piece of chain with a hook and a connector to one eye bolt. We had lathes with 20ft beds . Our big lathe came from the navy and used for shafting for subs n ships. We rode the carriage one cut took a ten hour shift. It was about sixty ft bed and 48" chuck. But she could throw chips 3/4" wide.
I need to check my stock of helicopter ball joints..............lol nicely done.
I was thinking about this today Randy! I had a lot of holes to drill on the lathe. I ended up clamping the tail stock to the carriage. It worked fine but I think this will be in my future. Great to watch this video again 👍
Thank you Jon, works well.
Use this technique for chambering rifle barrels for years. I learned it from an old master that had been doing it for years. MUCH better feel and control with the carriage vs the tail stock wheel. Not under power of course, as the reamer must be cleared often. Snugging the tail stock is sufficient to prevent run out. I like the heim joints, you can run it with the cross slide in any position. Good job.
I like it, I always just moved my tail stock in front of the carriage.
I think maybe easier.
Hi Randy, just a thought, if you put a dowel pin, or the head of a bolt or an "L" shaped block, or anything to hang out and catch the end of the tool post holder, you don't have to rely on the set screws to hold the force. Thanks for the video!
Good Idea. Thanks Ray.
Such a great idea, my old Logan doesn't have much tailstock travel, this will fix it, thanks for sharing
I can help. Thanks.
Great for long holes . Cheers .
Randy, Thanks for the shout out. I wanted to ad that on lighter Lathes if you cant pull straight from the spindle area of the tailstock to be careful that the rod does not want to lift the tailstock up off the bed ways. I think that would only be a problem with larger bits. Always nice to see a RRITS video. Have a great weekend my friend. Gary
Thanks Gary Works great.
Agreed...... came out awesome. Nice to see you making a super informative video. Especially like all the fancy captions and soothing upbeat background music. 👍👍😎👍👍. Can’t count how many times this past week I’ve used the new knocker I received from you recently. Sweet size. Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
I have seen this done on bigger lathes before my question is what keeps the tailstock from bouncing around on the ways you can't really tighten up the drag nut sufficiently I don't think
I agree. If the tail stock isn’t locked down it’s not concentric with the head stock. Probably ok if accuracy isn’t necessary.
I also wondered if there might be some torsional effect on the tailstock given the link is off to the side.
Bill, I was thinking this same thing. Under the lathe where it grips isnt exactly a sliding surface. 🤔
Nice job Randy, worked out well. Hope Mrs Randy is doing OK! Cheers, Jon
Nice Randy. I have a bunch of those ball joints that I striped out of a old PT13 years ago!
Very cool!
Dang, that's a great idea! Beats the heck out of the handwheel especially it you need to drill a bunch of stock.
Sure does Mark.
Nice build....I made a copy of this also when I saw it in Gary’s channel
Your subscribers are certainly a lot nicer than mine. If I would drill holes and do bevelling on handheld parts, they would be screaming their guts out at me. Nice video, loved the whole thing.
I'd been thinking on this one for a while. Century old engine lathes are not noted for having light components that are easy to move.
I have T slots in the carriage, front & rear. So I'm considering making use of those for a simpler setup. A loop of light chain or cable, around the back end of the tailstock. Fix solid on one side/end, a stout hook on the other, for a quick disconnect. Spread the load on the carriage out, won't need to drill a hole in the tailstock. Keeps things original, easily going back to how it was before, if needed. Should work great with a Mr. Pete inspired auxiliary carriage power feed
That is a great idea there Randy. I have seen it done before myself. Beats cranking the tail stock chuck back and forth for a deep hole. I have been tappy tap taping things all over the place with my Randy Richard knocker. :👍😁
I saw that on old iron and tom lipton. I will be making one now, but why not use a tool post mounted chuck? Seems like the same idea, I imagine its just for the dro function, maybe feed rate for reamers.
Very handy attachment. I'm sure it will be nice to power feed drills and reamers.
Take Care and Stay Safe.
Bob
Great job. Onto building this as soon as I get home .
Go for it!
That's a good idea. Simple and effective. That's how i like it.
BTW, Gary has a great channel.
Very useful addition Randy.
Thank you Paul, it is working out great.
Nicew job randy. There were some interesting techniques used in this project. I appreciate the share.
You bet
That's a pretty cool trick!
It looks like an alternate way you could have done it with that lathe is a link from the back of the tailstock to the back T slot in the carriage. Just put the same sort of bar in the T slot. That would have let you take the toolpost off if you needed more clearance for some part.
Right On Randy! 👍 That worked out perfect! Alright, another project I need to make in the shop. Thanks for the video. The screen shot intro was pretty slick too!
Thanks Jon. right On.
Any room in the dovetail for your toolpost for a bracket? It'd be a shame to hide that jammy control tube but it might be more convenient to use.
Awesome Project Randy! Looks fantastic....
Very nice build. Flush rivets are always nice. Keeping you guys in my thoughts and prayers.
Hello Randy,
Nice work... good design... I hope Mrs. R is okay and you too...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thanks 👍
Turned out great Randy, I like the rivets !
Thanks 👍
That turned out great Randy. I've never seen that before.
Simple and effective, we call that an elegant solution. Thanks!
Never seen that buffing of the rivet heads looks really satisfying to make and do! Thank you for uploading! :)
Absolutely A1 Randy, I caught Gary using his, and thought I'm definitely making me one too lol
I do have a Morse taper 3 tool holder for mytool post, but the drag link is certainly a great way of doing it
Excellent presentation and project. I am going to do the same project. Thank you for showing how to do this.
Thanks Paul, Works great.
Nice project Randy.....good editing on this one too
Thanks 👍
Nice mod.. Gary's channel is bad ass.
Fantastic idea, I'm going to do this!!!
Wonderful!
Nice project. Good video.
I first saw the idea on Gary's channel. Then you mentioned him. I'm looking at my lathe to see how I can do that. It seems like a great idea. Nice to see the videos flowing Randy.
Right on
Very nice simple solution. Thanks.
Nice project Randy and great selection of music during the process of making the link sir! 👍Roger
Many thanks!
Very nicely done!
Great design Randy, looks good too! cheers!
Morning Randy! A good episode.
I first saw that on a Soviet era Russian lathe a goodly number of years ago, can't recall for sure but i may have mentioned it to Mr Wizard before he did his. The russky one had a hook on the cross slide and a loop on the tailstock. All you had to do to engage was to move the cross slide in.
Clever idea Randy👍
Nice job Randy! Prayers still heading to y'all from SC
Is that an approved AN rivet nice rivet gun . Thanks for sharing.
If the pivots for the link were vertical instead of horizontal, with the tailstock locked, movement on the cross-slide would cause the carriage to move in an arc instead of a straight line. The radius would be the length between centers, and would yield a concave surface on the face of a part turned in the lathe.
Great project
Cool video, just a suggestion, your volumes need tweaking , I had trouble hearing you talking so I switched to earbuds and the the music started and I had to crank the volume way down
Drag, pull and push rod? Sounds like a Connecting Rod in a way. John, Australia.
looking forward to seeing it in action
Thanks Greg.
Cool . Simple and effective, like any tool should be.
Like that idea a lot... nice job Randy and slick presentation (you've got a new editor perhaps!) :).
Great idea Randy, thanks for the how too video great job
Thanks for watching!
From the thumbnail title I though you were going to work on the steering linkage on your old Jeep.
Do you have a title for the Tom Lipton tailstock follow please, having trouble finding it.
It was mentioned in one of his last 3 or 4 videos.
What is the ship in the background a4 0:40?
Looks like the Exxon Benicia.
Yep Scott in Maine. It is the Exxon Benicia. Sitting in Valdex, Ak.
@@RRINTHESHOP She was a big girl. Were you her CE?
@@inogo2cnomore I was able to serve in all engineer positions on her over her years.
@@RRINTHESHOP Nice! Sailed with a few guys from Exxon; I think "Buzz" G. was Chief on her at one time. Hope she had a better plant than the Boston and Baltimore.
I like it, thanks for sharing.
Amazing precision in this video...........................................Hmmm
Where, no way. Thanks Bill.
cool idea worth copying, say Randy your sound is pretty low. you always do an excellent job of explaining, but without your lavallier mic it's really hard to hear you even with the volume cranked way up. didn't you used to have one in previous videos?
That's a great idea.
Time for me to get busy
Well, that was a drag for sure 😏
Hi Randy, I don't know if it is just me, but you audio levels for your voice are really low. The music was at a normal level but your voice is difficult to hear and has been over the last number of videos. I can't eat chips when watching the videos or the crunching drowns you out LOL.
Nice simple way to get the job done! Take some time and listen to EngelsCoach Shop. He does the best job of combining music and video of anyone I have ever known. His music is peaceful and puts you totally at ease as you watch him do his magic.