A lot of DIY T-Nut videos on TH-cam. This is the first one I've seen showing the important step of deforming the threads on the bottom to prevent jacking. Nice work.
There's a bunch of reasons I keep coming back to the BH videos. It's not just the "Bob Ross of the machining world" soothing dialogue or the unassuming yet bountiful knowledge bank of good workshop practices but it also includes little things, like pronunciation of words like "pedagog..... pedagodgi....gigical.." I'll be right back after a quick google. Oh I just saw the $5 dollar word up the top corner there ..
This was great. Thanks. I love the narration, especially when you "catch" yourself going on and on - when I do it at home I end up stopping and saying, "I'm babbling, aren't I?" Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Watched Video. Thanks for the content. Hard not to be redundant with so many well-versed commenters, but hear goes: another method of "staking" the thread exit, is to lay a bearing ball on said exit, and give it a judicious hammer blow. This was a favorite clandestine method used to cheat the no-go gage for a controlled feature. Some facilities frown on the presence of bearing balls in the vicinity of threading operations...
T nuts are a great project. Many years of use you will get out of them makes them so satisfying to make. Glad to see the tri fly face mill working for you.
I really like using stub drills for drilling non-critical holes, less flex than regular drills so closer to centre drilling first with fewer tool changes. As long as space isn’t an issue of course.
A good set of screw machine length (stub) drills is fantastic to have on small mills as often times it is all that will fit in the limited Z working space on taller setups.
Quinn, I'd like to thank you for all of the vids you've put up here on the tube. My Father-in-Law is a machinist (tool & die maker) but lives too far away to teach. I've learned a LOT from your videos and will continue to follow you channel as long as you continue to post. Again, Thank you!
Nothing wrong with making ones own parts even if they are inexpensive. We do it because we love to just make small bits of metal out of larger bits. And sometimes make smaller bits slightly larger with the welder because we screwed up. That's my style, lol.
Great way to make t-nuts, Quinn. Another way to keep the screws from bottoming out is to stop tapping before the taper part goes all the way through the nut.
They can be faster, almost everything other than the contact surfaces can be unmachined if you have correct size stock. Cold saw cut ends and deburring
When I saw the video title I thought this was about T nuts that would be quicker to insert into the slots or something. Maybe with some red speed lines painted on the side.
@@jacklewis1 i learned the hard way that removing t-nuts from my table "quickly" is not to use 140psi of compressed air and yelling "hey guys, look at this"
A very enjoyable watch, Quinn. Thanks. I am a hobby machinist, with limited skills and facilities. I did a job for one client, which by luck and star alignment, turned out exceptionally well. It was an awkward component to make, right at the edge of my skills level. The client referred me to someone else, with the introduction: ...an expert machinist... I could only deny this, and say that I watch a lot of youtube videos... Anyway, it was a fairly simple job; a single point internal trapezoidal threading operation. ( with brass/bronze/yellowmetal material supplied )
I was stuck for tee nuts a while back and time was of the essence. I measured the tee slots on my mill (5/8) and bought some carriage/coach bolts and nuts to suit from the local hardware store and had the rotary table secured in no time at all. Really liking the content of your tutorials!
Don't ever stop making videos Quinn. I love them all and all of them teach. Who else could make miniature Abom chips so well? Yes, talking is hard if anyone happens to be listening .. I don't have that problem. Even I don't listen to what I'm saying.🤣🤣
"Look, narration is hard, OK?" That and the follower. LOL! Yeah, we've all had those days.... Basic stuff done well is always good. And the way you milled the cross section was a good trick to use elsewhere. As always a great video and well worth the watching.
Cut a couple of nuts in half lengthways. You can drop these into a slot when you discover you need another hold-down half way through machining. The stud holds the nut together.
yeah I agree with many ppl recommending doing all holes and tapping before cutting, since the tolerance for a tnut is basically anything goes as long as it slides well in the slot. esp if you have a dro, absolute centering isn't needed except for perfectionists haha. band saw setup I think also faster than mill fixture and changing slitting saw in and back out. good job tho! very enjoyable to watch you make some chips
I really like your channel. Watching makes me feel good, don't know why. I'm a retired EE who would like to have a mill and a metal lathe (I am a wood guy so I have a wood lathe. Maybe that's why. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
I'm a non-retired EE and a few years ago I got myself a lathe, which has just been joined by a mill. No regrets! Machine work is super fun even if you suck at it to begin with.
Horizontal mill and gang mill the profile. Nice to actually see some steel being machined on a PM25/G0704. Usually just guys on TH-cam milling aluminium
holy hell =/ that's some serious b.s., if they're some oddball size you might even be able to make a few bucks if you can hook up with some others that have the same chair model =)
@@ScumfuckMcDouchefacethe irony is that a lot of the parts they use are common enough. For example: the shocks on the chair are also used on mountain bikes, where they cost about $20, but from the chair manufacturer they’re $150.
@@JordanHaisley wow! Is that because a lot of their sales are through insurance, so they justify it by thinking they're not (usually) bilking the people that could use a break?... I like the idea that parts are interchangeable and all that, i had no idea or at least never thought bout it... I have the feeling that if I needed a chair I'd have it tuned right up with a bunch of Norco and Specialized parts haha =)
Im relatively new to machining. For me it’s strictly a hobby. I dislike wasting metal because where I live it is not only expensive, but an hour drive each way to get it. My point is, why not use the slitting saw to rough in the shape. That way you get the small corner piece for another project, at the same time making less chips.
I tried that climb milling once because it was said it was good. End mill fragments everywhere! I like you method better.... I have a sloppy pseudo mill. 😥 I get a lot out of if from methods you have shown. Thanks.
Another good one! You do a wonderful job of explaining on your channel. After watching your lathe series, I feel like I could get a lathe in my garage and almost immediately start making parts. But alas, I do not own a lathe. And I've got too many hobbies going on as well as a house remodel, so would it make any sense for me to buy a lathe? Someday!
A small tip would be rather than take shallow depths of cuts the width radially you need I try to take full depth of cuts and a small axial engagement maybe .01-.025” this uses the tool out evenly and doesn’t risk chipping the corners as much as a shallow depth of cut does. It makes these Long angry chips though so be careful :) I have a video where I made my Mando blaster on the CNC where I use this method to peel Away tons of material at once
Well,,,,,What I do is to use regular parallels and cut the steps, Then with the stock left in the mill we drill and power tap the holes,,,,and THEN cut them apart in the band saw. Our mill is quite a bit bigger then yours but we can make half a dozen in less the a half hour,,,,,including clean up and putting everything away. - We make them for customer's fixtures all the time.
Just subbed the other day. Been a machinist 40+ years as was my dad before me. I enjoy your videos and the manual machines as opposed to the CNC stuff. Have you ever spoke about your experiences and how you arrived to this point? College? Trade college? I hear you say model engineer? Have you given a shop tour? I might be late to the party but that stuff would make for another good video to watch IMHO!
Heh. Amazon's price for Building the New Shay was $50 before the video came out, jumped to $53 when the video came out to your Patreon supporters, and then jumped to $101.25 when the video came out on TH-cam. Blondihacks, moving (3/4" scale) markets!
Nice, just got myself 2500lbs of cast iron that they say can be used as a milling machine, just got to get it to the basement 😨 This will be my first projekt. Thanks. Cheers from Sweden ❄❄❄
gf walked by while as i was watching. she stoped by and read "fat nuts! can they be faster?" instead of the actual title. looked at me for one second with the best WTF?! face ever. then looked at the screen again, started laughing and said "mooooving on!". fun times.
Been doing this the same way for 30 years and counting. Only difference is I flip the stock 90* so I have more material sunk in the vise and climb cut using the 2/3 rule.
When i tap in the mill i hang a couple of pounds of weight ob the down feed handle so it frees up my hands to get both of them on the tap wrench and keeps the follower on the the tap wrench.
Quinn. new to machining. how do you support underneath all of your work in the vise? do you literally have little scraps that are of precise width and height to keep things square for every possible permutation of what you are clamping, or is there a literal Blondi-Hack that I could be made privy to :D
There are some T-nuts made by Sherline for their little lathes that are quite different, and I wonder if they'd have an application on a bigger lathe. They have a vertical extension shaft which is thread, and the threading doe not go through the bottom. I use them with a back side parting tool I designed; and any other place I have a spacer block. Here's a pic: www.sherline.com/product/tee-nut-tall/ I put a Sherline head stock spacer on my lathe, converted it to an ER32 collet, and am able to run 80mm 3 & 4 jaw chuck. REAL chucks, spiral 3 jaw and an independent 4 jaw. I use a spacer block on the cross slide, and by adding a Sherline sized qck change tool holder, I only had to be close with the thickness of the spacer block. But, this is where the tall T-nuts came in handy. Sherline sells them for use with their fixed tool holders, if you want to see what they look like. I tried making a dovetailed spacer block for the tail stock, but abandoned that project, and bought one for the tail stock, which also works with the steady rest. I use a 2.5hp DC treadmill motor, with a alternator based jack shaft, so the motor RPMs stay high for the torque, then with pulley size 'magic', I can run from about 300 RPMs to a max of 5000 RPMs. Unlike most Sherline users, I don't have any problems using inserts, turning SS and aluminum and plastics are a breeze. I discovered the alternator jack shaft by accident. My neighbor gave me a half dozen core alternators from newer cars. I've worked on cars as a job and hobby for 50+ years, but wasn't familiar with the new three bolt, non swing serp belt units. There were two Motorola alt laying on the floor, as I thinking about how to build the jack shaft I needed, (I had tried without one, and it was a joke.) I noticed these alts were identical, except for the 'thickness'. Same diameter, same mount, but one was several inches 'longer'. I checked and the difference was the amperage output. I took them both apart, and used the front half of the case and the rotor from the high amp, and the back half from the low amp. I had to remove the diodes, brush and such, but they fit together, needing a 1/4" wide spacer. Effectively, I had a dual shaft alternator after I made the spacer. I used the serp belt pulley side on the micro-v drive end of the DC motor, and used a cogged belt pulley on the other end of the shaft, and a small cogged pulley on the lathe spindle. I left the rotor as is. Left all the copper; that sucker is most of the weight of the alt. I couldn't find a serp pulley to fit the motor, nor a micro-v pulley to mount on the alt. So, I bought the largest micro-v pulley I could find, (~5"), and used the OEM steel serp pulley. With some creative turning and sizing of the plastic micro-v, I was able to use some 6160 to sandwich the two pulleys together, and then cover both side with epoxy and some fiberglass mat. It's came out concentric enough, +- 0.050' and near perfectly square to the shaft. I have a small drive pulley on the DC motor, to the larger driven pulley on one side of the alt, the a larger cogged pulley as the intermediate drive pulley on the other side of the alt, and a very small cogged pulley on the spindle. Spindle size on the Sherline is 20mm, making finding a cogged pulley easy and cheap. (cont below)
Great content, as always :) I'm having trouble finding good sliting saws.. could you please do some test of import ones and maybe list where to find them? Or just link to where you sourced the ones you got? Would be awesome. Keep it up 👌
Hi Quinn I'm really enjoying your channel, thank you for the great content you create. After watching a whole load of your videos I was wondering what you do with all the metal swarf created while you work? I did a little googling around what other people do but there doesn't seem to be a consensus on whether recycling is worth it or even how one goes about it (to separate metal by type or not). I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts on this and what it is you do.
One other tip for making things faster is to care less about the result. The less you care, the faster you can go! It's like a superpower.
Erm yes, but, um... not sure if that's a reliable route to securing a successful outcome! Just sayin' :-)
@@tungsten_carbide Think bigger. You've just got to tweak your definition of "successful" to suit!
What? No chamfering? So its come to this - down there with the animals 😱
"Scale models of Abom chips". That's a good one. 😀
This is the second video this week that I've seen the maker reference Abom. It's like he and clickspring have become the youtube standard. :-)
Abom would have done them on his G & E shaper.
A lot of DIY T-Nut videos on TH-cam. This is the first one I've seen showing the important step of deforming the threads on the bottom to prevent jacking. Nice work.
There's a bunch of reasons I keep coming back to the BH videos. It's not just the "Bob Ross of the machining world" soothing dialogue or the unassuming yet bountiful knowledge bank of good workshop practices but it also includes little things, like pronunciation of words like "pedagog..... pedagodgi....gigical.." I'll be right back after a quick google.
Oh I just saw the $5 dollar word up the top corner there ..
This was great. Thanks. I love the narration, especially when you "catch" yourself going on and on - when I do it at home I end up stopping and saying, "I'm babbling, aren't I?" Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Nice and simple setup Quinn
suggestion, I used a tapered thread in the T-Nut so the threaded bar does not go though the T-Nut 11:00
Watched Video. Thanks for the content. Hard not to be redundant with so many well-versed commenters, but hear goes: another method of "staking" the thread exit, is to lay a bearing ball on said exit, and give it a judicious hammer blow. This was a favorite clandestine method used to cheat the no-go gage for a controlled feature. Some facilities frown on the presence of bearing balls in the vicinity of threading operations...
Cool trick!
Another good one and your viewers leave THE BEST comments. Thanks Quinn.
My viewers are funny and kind folks for the most part. 🥰 The rest get moderated. 😬
T nuts are a great project. Many years of use you will get out of them makes them so satisfying to make. Glad to see the tri fly face mill working for you.
I really like using stub drills for drilling non-critical holes, less flex than regular drills so closer to centre drilling first with fewer tool changes. As long as space isn’t an issue of course.
A good set of screw machine length (stub) drills is fantastic to have on small mills as often times it is all that will fit in the limited Z working space on taller setups.
Quinn as is tradition Thank you for taking the time to make this video Pete M
Quinn, I'd like to thank you for all of the vids you've put up here on the tube. My Father-in-Law is a machinist (tool & die maker) but lives too far away to teach. I've learned a LOT from your videos and will continue to follow you channel as long as you continue to post. Again, Thank you!
Good project. I've used T nuts for many years but never thought of tapping them off-center for rotary table use. Never too old to learn something new.
Nothing wrong with making ones own parts even if they are inexpensive. We do it because we love to just make small bits of metal out of larger bits. And sometimes make smaller bits slightly larger with the welder because we screwed up. That's my style, lol.
turning in to my favorite machining channel. I always have something that makes me laugh and I learn something.
Great way to make t-nuts, Quinn. Another way to keep the screws from bottoming out is to stop tapping before the taper part goes all the way through the nut.
Nuts, milling, drilling, dancing! What's not to enjoy? 😁
They can be faster, almost everything other than the contact surfaces can be unmachined if you have correct size stock. Cold saw cut ends and deburring
Definitely!
@@Blondihacks Yes but it's done in half the time . Half the fun?
Yay, it's Blondihacks time!
When I saw the video title I thought this was about T nuts that would be quicker to insert into the slots or something. Maybe with some red speed lines painted on the side.
Or a way to get them out more easily
@@jacklewis1 i learned the hard way that removing t-nuts from my table "quickly" is not to use 140psi of compressed air and yelling "hey guys, look at this"
.... and furry dice attached.
A very enjoyable watch, Quinn. Thanks.
I am a hobby machinist, with limited skills and facilities. I did a job for one client, which by luck and star alignment, turned out exceptionally well.
It was an awkward component to make, right at the edge of my skills level. The client referred me to someone else, with the introduction: ...an expert machinist...
I could only deny this, and say that I watch a lot of youtube videos...
Anyway, it was a fairly simple job; a single point internal trapezoidal threading operation. ( with brass/bronze/yellowmetal material supplied )
Oh, now I really need to finish making my slitting saw arbor. So satisfying.
I was stuck for tee nuts a while back and time was of the essence. I measured the tee slots on my mill (5/8) and bought some carriage/coach bolts and nuts to suit from the local hardware store and had the rotary table secured in no time at all. Really liking the content of your tutorials!
Don't ever stop making videos Quinn. I love them all and all of them teach. Who else could make miniature Abom chips so well? Yes, talking is hard if anyone happens to be listening .. I don't have that problem. Even I don't listen to what I'm saying.🤣🤣
As always a great video. Still haven't found the parts that look like an elephant. (But I got the joke) Keep up the great work....Rusty.
I died at the tap follower part.
Never had one of _those_ days? ;-)
@@tungsten_carbide Yes I have, LOL It would help if she would etch some hair around that hole. That's the response I get from the old timers at work.
@@brianrhubbard NSFW lol
Great tip about deforming the bottom of the threaded hole! Thanks!
"Look, narration is hard, OK?" That and the follower. LOL! Yeah, we've all had those days.... Basic stuff done well is always good. And the way you milled the cross section was a good trick to use elsewhere. As always a great video and well worth the watching.
At least one person watched all the way to the end. 😬
@@Blondihacks Me too! I watched to the end I _pwomise_ !
Me three!
@@Blondihacks Doesn't everybody? That seems weird to me 🤷
your dance moves are exceptional quinn!
Love the topic, love your quality production, love your easy style, and love your bs. Keep up the good work and thanks
Bork it up, thanks for that. 20 mins of crazy laughter. Little kids are super funny
Abom makes oversized models of Quinn's chips
Cut a couple of nuts in half lengthways. You can drop these into a slot when you discover you need another hold-down half way through machining. The stud holds the nut together.
That’s a cool idea!
Love the way you explain your processes. Thank you for the great videos.
5:41 My brain instantly started playing Desi Arnes singing "chick-chicky-boom!" to go with that shimmy dance xD
yeah I agree with many ppl recommending doing all holes and tapping before cutting, since the tolerance for a tnut is basically anything goes as long as it slides well in the slot. esp if you have a dro, absolute centering isn't needed except for perfectionists haha. band saw setup I think also faster than mill fixture and changing slitting saw in and back out.
good job tho! very enjoyable to watch you make some chips
I’m glad you didn’t “bork” anything up. 😂 I’m stealing that.
Excellent, excellent, excellent! Always learn something from your videos.👍👍👍😎
Look forward ever week to seeing you. Me and my kids love this stuff.
I regret that TH-cam allows me but one "thumbs up" to give for this video.
I have this regret so often!
Simple/smart
I really like your channel. Watching makes me feel good, don't know why. I'm a retired EE who would like to have a mill and a metal lathe (I am a wood guy so I have a wood lathe. Maybe that's why. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
I'm a non-retired EE and a few years ago I got myself a lathe, which has just been joined by a mill. No regrets! Machine work is super fun even if you suck at it to begin with.
Nice manual work. Thanks for sharing!
I like the way you explain things.
Oh yeah?! Well... well *I* like the explain you things way!! So... so just there.
I admire your enthusiasm for making T nuts, I don’t like making T nuts and clamps.
Lovely! Very satisfying. Thank you.
Horizontal mill and gang mill the profile. Nice to actually see some steel being machined on a PM25/G0704. Usually just guys on TH-cam milling aluminium
Done to a T for sure. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Quinn
1/4-20 T-nuts also means you can secure your camera to the mill table!
That’s bound to come in handy somehow. 😄
Next step: make a spinning window to keep machining debris off the lens.
Nuts …… machined like your cup of tea. 👍👍😂👍👍
The company that makes my wheelchair charges $17 per T nut… I need to start machining them. This is a good guide for doing so.
holy hell =/ that's some serious b.s., if they're some oddball size you might even be able to make a few bucks if you can hook up with some others that have the same chair model =)
@@ScumfuckMcDouchefacethe irony is that a lot of the parts they use are common enough. For example: the shocks on the chair are also used on mountain bikes, where they cost about $20, but from the chair manufacturer they’re $150.
@@JordanHaisley wow! Is that because a lot of their sales are through insurance, so they justify it by thinking they're not (usually) bilking the people that could use a break?... I like the idea that parts are interchangeable and all that, i had no idea or at least never thought bout it... I have the feeling that if I needed a chair I'd have it tuned right up with a bunch of Norco and Specialized parts haha =)
Im relatively new to machining. For me it’s strictly a hobby. I dislike wasting metal because where I live it is not only expensive, but an hour drive each way to get it. My point is, why not use the slitting saw to rough in the shape. That way you get the small corner piece for another project, at the same time making less chips.
I tried that climb milling once because it was said it was good.
End mill fragments everywhere!
I like you method better....
I have a sloppy pseudo mill. 😥
I get a lot out of if from methods you have shown. Thanks.
Its nuts how fast i can comment.
Marring threads was around before loctite. If you do it correctly and the application is appropriate, it can work just as well as loctite.
Another good one! You do a wonderful job of explaining on your channel. After watching your lathe series, I feel like I could get a lathe in my garage and almost immediately start making parts. But alas, I do not own a lathe. And I've got too many hobbies going on as well as a house remodel, so would it make any sense for me to buy a lathe? Someday!
A small tip would be rather than take shallow depths of cuts the width radially you need I try to take full depth of cuts and a small axial engagement maybe .01-.025” this uses the tool out evenly and doesn’t risk chipping the corners as much as a shallow depth of cut does. It makes these Long angry chips though so be careful :) I have a video where I made my Mando blaster on the CNC where I use this method to peel
Away tons of material at once
Well,,,,,What I do is to use regular parallels and cut the steps, Then with the stock left in the mill we drill and power tap the holes,,,,and THEN cut them apart in the band saw. Our mill is quite a bit bigger then yours but we can make half a dozen in less the a half hour,,,,,including clean up and putting everything away. - We make them for customer's fixtures all the time.
Just subbed the other day. Been a machinist 40+ years as was my dad before me. I enjoy your videos and the manual machines as opposed to the CNC stuff. Have you ever spoke about your experiences and how you arrived to this point? College? Trade college? I hear you say model engineer? Have you given a shop tour? I might be late to the party but that stuff would make for another good video to watch IMHO!
Go look for the shop tour video, Quinn did it recently and it's mind-opening for how to get creative in a confined space.
@@MichaelKJohnson thanks Mike, will do.
Heh. Amazon's price for Building the New Shay was $50 before the video came out, jumped to $53 when the video came out to your Patreon supporters, and then jumped to $101.25 when the video came out on TH-cam. Blondihacks, moving (3/4" scale) markets!
Nice, just got myself 2500lbs of cast iron that they say can be used as a milling machine, just got to get it to the basement 😨 This will be my first projekt. Thanks. Cheers from Sweden ❄❄❄
Easy...
Put it in the living room.
It'll make its way to the basement on its own.
Since Sprocket wasnt seen? Was it not approved by the shop foreman Sprocket?
Good looking work.
Scale models of Abom chips 🤣🤣🙏🙏👍👍
Yup, my fav joke for this video.
A good job done Quinn... Thank you...
Blonde doing her Harley Quinn dancing 💃
gf walked by while as i was watching. she stoped by and read "fat nuts! can they be faster?" instead of the actual title. looked at me for one second with the best WTF?! face ever. then looked at the screen again, started laughing and said "mooooving on!". fun times.
Basic, foundational, useful!
Wow. This is awesome
Here's some love Quinn love your videos
Everything stops for tea (nuts)!
Thanks for the video Quinn. Loved it.
thanks for sharing!!!
10 points for mentioning Abom79
Another great video, thanks Quinn!
Been doing this the same way for 30 years and counting. Only difference is I flip the stock 90* so I have more material sunk in the vise and climb cut using the 2/3 rule.
👍👍 nice little video Quinn.
Elephant Hunting in Canada ? ? ? ?
phunny ! ! !
Explain again what the rotary table does please! Then, explain again how sheep’s bladders may be employed to prevent earthquakes!
...And that's how we know the earth to be banana shaped
This new learning amazes me.
I tried making one with my credit card as you suggested, but now it gets declined whenever I try to use it.
When i tap in the mill i hang a couple of pounds of weight ob the down feed handle so it frees up my hands to get both of them on the tap wrench and keeps the follower on the the tap wrench.
Fanbloodytastic I need to renew some so thanks 👍👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
Quinn. new to machining. how do you support underneath all of your work in the vise? do you literally have little scraps that are of precise width and height to keep things square for every possible permutation of what you are clamping, or is there a literal Blondi-Hack that I could be made privy to :D
There are some T-nuts made by Sherline for their little lathes that are quite different, and I wonder if they'd have an application on a bigger lathe. They have a vertical extension shaft which is thread, and the threading doe not go through the bottom. I use them with a back side parting tool I designed; and any other place I have a spacer block. Here's a pic: www.sherline.com/product/tee-nut-tall/
I put a Sherline head stock spacer on my lathe, converted it to an ER32 collet, and am able to run 80mm 3 & 4 jaw chuck. REAL chucks, spiral 3 jaw and an independent 4 jaw. I use a spacer block on the cross slide, and by adding a Sherline sized qck change tool holder, I only had to be close with the thickness of the spacer block. But, this is where the tall T-nuts came in handy. Sherline sells them for use with their fixed tool holders, if you want to see what they look like.
I tried making a dovetailed spacer block for the tail stock, but abandoned that project, and bought one for the tail stock, which also works with the steady rest.
I use a 2.5hp DC treadmill motor, with a alternator based jack shaft, so the motor RPMs stay high for the torque, then with pulley size 'magic', I can run from about 300 RPMs to a max of 5000 RPMs. Unlike most Sherline users, I don't have any problems using inserts, turning SS and aluminum and plastics are a breeze.
I discovered the alternator jack shaft by accident. My neighbor gave me a half dozen core alternators from newer cars. I've worked on cars as a job and hobby for 50+ years, but wasn't familiar with the new three bolt, non swing serp belt units.
There were two Motorola alt laying on the floor, as I thinking about how to build the jack shaft I needed, (I had tried without one, and it was a joke.) I noticed these alts were identical, except for the 'thickness'. Same diameter, same mount, but one was several inches 'longer'. I checked and the difference was the amperage output.
I took them both apart, and used the front half of the case and the rotor from the high amp, and the back half from the low amp. I had to remove the diodes, brush and such, but they fit together, needing a 1/4" wide spacer. Effectively, I had a dual shaft alternator after I made the spacer.
I used the serp belt pulley side on the micro-v drive end of the DC motor, and used a cogged belt pulley on the other end of the shaft, and a small cogged pulley on the lathe spindle. I left the rotor as is. Left all the copper; that sucker is most of the weight of the alt. I couldn't find a serp pulley to fit the motor, nor a micro-v pulley to mount on the alt. So, I bought the largest micro-v pulley I could find, (~5"), and used the OEM steel serp pulley. With some creative turning and sizing of the plastic micro-v, I was able to use some 6160 to sandwich the two pulleys together, and then cover both side with epoxy and some fiberglass mat.
It's came out concentric enough, +- 0.050' and near perfectly square to the shaft. I have a small drive pulley on the DC motor, to the larger driven pulley on one side of the alt, the a larger cogged pulley as the intermediate drive pulley on the other side of the alt, and a very small cogged pulley on the spindle. Spindle size on the Sherline is 20mm, making finding a cogged pulley easy and cheap.
(cont below)
New on PS5: Dance Dance Oscillation 😄
Elephant? I thought we were making T Nuts. 😉
Great content, as always :) I'm having trouble finding good sliting saws.. could you please do some test of import ones and maybe list where to find them? Or just link to where you sourced the ones you got? Would be awesome. Keep it up 👌
Most of mine are donations, so I don’t know where they are from. I have had good luck with Keo saws from MSCDirect though
Indeed, KEO makes very good saws...
11:39 Looks just like a herd of elephants to me.
Lovely lil vid Quinn sorry could you go through the rotating tuning table thing again I did not quite understand LOLl
Hi Quinn
I'm really enjoying your channel, thank you for the great content you create.
After watching a whole load of your videos I was wondering what you do with all the metal swarf created while you work?
I did a little googling around what other people do but there doesn't seem to be a consensus on whether recycling is worth it or even how one goes about it (to separate metal by type or not). I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts on this and what it is you do.
It’s really not worth it except in a few very special cases, like saving brass chips for heat bluing.
Great video. Can you tell me details on that insert face mill? Where did you get it? Part number? I have the same mill as you and want one!
2:37 Doing the NASCAR
Today I learned that an adjustable parallel is a thing. *Add to shopping basket*
Can you make T Nuts faster?
Chinese factories : Hold our Sake
@@jyvben1520 It was still funny, but yeah, appropriate-alcohol fail :-)
@5:41 look @ those DG - ODG machinist dance moves, Quinn when do those lessons start??????
Love that "scale models of abom chips". A surprisingly fun project to watch.
Thats some good stuff Q.
I think a visit to Abom79 would be as neat as an Abom79 visit to Blondihacks.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.