Now I have ran about 9 tests with each an open and a lsd and a locked and everyone of forms will always tell you that locked will hurt cornering ability however with my tests in dry,wet and icey conditions the open dif will actually want to spin more than a locked giving off a “one tire fire” now with the limited slip it is basicly the best dif for just about everything however the test was to see if the locked was as bad as people say it is and shockingly the awnser is no the locked dif while sure it require more skill from the driver however in a corner you can swing the rear out a bit and sence both wheels are spinning at the same rate you can pull out of a corner even faster and even in tighter corners the locked dif by far was the most consistent with in terms of behavior and so the awnser of people telling you a locked dif is bad and sucks at cornering has been proven false what makes a locked dif bad at cornering is the cars over all set up and not the dif you run no matter the dif make sure the car is tuned and set up to run with it
Thanks for sharing your results. I fully agree with you. Locked diff is the most consistent, and that’s what you need. If don’t get the same response from the car on the same input, then you can’t push it and control it. Also setup is crucial when you go serious, as a competition racer, we spend lots of time on getting the right setup. Without that you are not going to win
@@LyhneRC I’m running a locked dif on my nitro for racing and the locked dif is I’d argue the best dif for tight corners because when you have proper grip in the rear since the tires are turning at the same rate the rear behaves like it’s on a pivot and the car can just get out of the corner so much faster than a open or lsd but if you ever want to get into racing I’d love to see you experiment with differentials on things like carpet racing because while my tests where done on asphalt I think it would be interesting to see it done on something with more grip but anyways thank you for the feedback and keep up the good work!
@asproductions6400 Thanks mate, feedback and comments like this is always great. We are doing carpet racing, on pretty high level actually. All 4x4 touring cars that races in this league all have locket front diff and oil filled rear diff, that’s the fastest combination on these carpet tracks: th-cam.com/video/Sl59XeNRi7I/w-d-xo.html
I also did a test with the K989 to see if it got faster with a locket rear differential, and it actually did: WLToys K989, 284131 will it be faster with a locked front differential? th-cam.com/video/IaK9rInmT_s/w-d-xo.html
@MarcosMartinelli1 Yes, and it’s supposed so. I the diffs are open you may experience that one rear tire grips while the other doesn’t which abrupts the sliding movement. I saw a video once with a 1:1 BMW that drifted with open and closed diff, it drifted very poor with open diff.
Interesting I'm planning on running open diff in the back with some oil as I have a locked rear and open front but oddly I do not get the same result and in fact the opposite I have trouble with a lot of understeer but I believe it's what you suggested with the diff being too tight. I'm going to try out light oil front and heavier for rear for more realistic handling hopefully
@@LyhneRC using stock diffs I smoothed it all out and used a silicone grease for front and red and tacky for the rear with both diffs open but in this configuration it drifts amazing and would say it's definitely worth a try. I catch my self counter steering more often and slower drifts are flowing better similar to cs mod but not as extreme
I have run my 1/10th scale touring car with different diffs over the years for both touring and drifting and I think you can't have a setup thats works perfectly with everything, but completely open diffs are almost never good. I prefer to have a one-way diff in the front and a locked diff in the rear. It works well with carpet drift when it acts like a locked diff when accelerating and dosen't shift the weight to the front when braking, but it does break traction on the rear wheels whitch isn't always good especially at high speeds.
That’s an interesting setup, I’m not sure if you can get one way diff for these small cars. I agree that you can’t have a setup that is great for both race and drift, those are just too different. We also race 1:10 touring cars in a club, and there everybody uses locked diff in the front and diff with oil in the rear
Hi there and a great explanation, of there comparison between an open differential and locked differential for the control of the car. Take care and best wishes 😊😊😁
It’s perfect for winter when weather is too bad outside, the track is simple to make and use: Mini Z, WLToys K989 Track Ideas - how to make/build/create track th-cam.com/video/QW2gWJ4hva4/w-d-xo.html
Haven’t heard that combination before for drifting. That’s how a 1:10 scale touring car is setup for racing at high grip carpet tracks. I will try that, thanks for sharing 👍
i just got my 284131, would you recommend me to lock both diffs? or should i just leave them alone cuz i can drift it pretty good with stock everything, i just put the drift tires on... but its hard to get precise drifts with the stock setup
Depends on how tight your diffs are, mine 284131 was so tight it would act like locked diffs with drift tires, because drift tires has so little grip the diffs don’t need to fully closed. It is hard to drift with such a small car without upgrades. Have you made the steering lock mod?
@@LyhneRC the only upgrades ive done so far is i moved the servo screw to the top hole for better steering angle and i made the wheelbase longer... other than that its fully stock. its not too tight as ive taken it apart and cleaned up the gears a little bit but it just seems like it doesnt want to hold lines very well... im thinking a gyro will help incredibly
It could be because of the dead spot in the radio, I am currently working on a video for that. I have gyro in my mini Q but he it turned off. I am not fan of gyro. It takes some practice to master these small cars
I cant help but wonder if rubbers on the back tires to increase their grip would help things... clearly, that's not what you should do... but it would be amusing. Also just... I can't get over "HOOTNIGA" being on the car. That's priceless. Absolutely priceless. When I get my metal knuckles (dont power slide into chair legs with your wheels) I will put my drift tires on... and I didn't fix my diffs (i want them to either break or wear in, dont ask me why) so I'll see what happens. maybe the nearly locked stock diffs will drift good. Or I'll hit another chair leg and break something new.
The Hootnigan is priceless 😂🤣, I wonder if they don’t know it’s spelled wrong 🤪. On my carpet rubbers tires wouldn’t work if I wanted to drift. If you watch the end of my K989 vs K969 video then in the end the K969 almost drifts with rubber tires on wooden floor. The trick is to find the best wheels/diff combo that works on your surface.
Thanks for the details, I will check that. But I still wonder why that helps, because removing spacers makes suspension softer which provides more grip, and I have too much grip. I race at competition level, so I know much about that, but not that much about drifting, so maybe things works differently there 🤪
Nice video, great little cars I've 2 k989's as I found them at a very low price and modified one into k969 by using ball diffs with full metal gearing and drift wheels and k969 body. I got it all for good prices so it cost me about rrp for a new k969. I've got the diff locked at rear and and semi tight in th3 front ( I'm still testing it )
@@LyhneRC unfortunately after a few test runs the metel gear stripped the diffs. So I went back to original running gear might try again with plastic ball diffs or k969 original diffs next month.
@@jakomathstwo Strange why the metal gears didn't last. I have only used stock gears and we have being using the cars a lot, especially the K989 and so far nothing has broken
@@LyhneRC the diffs I bought were very soft metal, the metal gear just stripped the teeth. The only original parts I've broken have been the rear drive cup's so far. The standard parts are pretty good 👍
To lock a diff open it up cut use balls of small paper to fill it then turn the diff to force the paper inbetween the gears. Fill the rest squueze as much in as possible. Then screw it shut again. Twist hte diff to ensure it is locked. You don't need to buy a fixed diff you can do this to any open diff. Open it and fill it with anything, blue tac as can be removed or just silicone or glue it if you want it permanent). Hot glue the cogs, anything to stop the gears inside working. Poke a strip of paper between the gears then force rotate the diff to lock the cogs. Put it back together. And free. Options for RWD may differ but for these cheap AWD ones I've got, converting to RWD will just spin on accelleration if you leave the front diff open. Locking both front and rear is cheap and easy as it is but has a disadvantage that the car will brake immediately as soon as you let of the throttle though so entry into the apex or entry to the bend it will suddenly brake. The whole drift will jump start between tracktion and autbraking - on a prpoer set up the fronts will roll to prevent this. This allows a more fluid drift. No front free- rolling if you lock it. Front one way is the best diff in the front, it allows forward free-roll to prevent that sudden braking but progressive lock-on when acceleration giving you grip to apply the front drive train to keep the car washing wide on an exit of a bend. No open diffs for drifting as you can't maintain a slide consistently, it will understeer on entry and drift wide with understeer on the exit. Explains why the "track style 989" has open diffs. and the 969 which was drift has locked diffs. HTe cheapest wa to do that hence fron and back are already locked. Just for anyone wondering my findings. Unless you are going to apply a drift-steering mod and drift-gyro, RWD is not an option of this scale (not that this was mentioned jsut for more info, I leave mine all AWD. If looking to buy all those to this a driftable car you may as wwll just buy a better class of drift car you may as well just buy a miniz of rolling drift chassis, than buy bits and rebuild this into something proper. In short best is to lock rear and get an adjustable one you can add to the front. try it out and experiment with front being different tightnesses, so loosen or tighten with the screw to your best outcome for your use case scenario. Failing that lock if you don't like any of them just lock the front go and enjoy it. I liked the video, nicely done.
Hi, what a nice comment. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge. Locking a diff permanently is easy, especially these small ones, I experiment so I prefer to switch from open to locked diff instead of modifying an open diff so that I can quickly change back. And I agree that a one-way diff in front is probably the best, but I haven't seen them available for this car, have you seen that? A diff with adjustable lock is available, so maybe I should try that out. Again thanks for your input 👍👍👍
@@LyhneRC Thanks for the response. For one way I've researched (See Studio55 YT channel, and Beaver Hobby Channel also) you can use one from a MiniZ, MiniQ (cheaper version from aliexpress/bangood) or ther is another make I can't remember but you then need 2mm longer drive shafts. Again those can be bought from AliExpress. The K969 and K989 have shorter CVDs as the original front diff is a little wider. You can also do a one spring front suspention conversion (yet to do that or fit a one way diff in anything). I recently bought a TT02D kit and a lot of hopups to build it how I want from the beginning and the bits so will be trying one out on those. Can't get a front one way for my 1/10 HPI Sprint 2 as that is so old they can't be found anywhere anymore. Anyway dont want to ramble off topic but a couple of YT channels to check out on the small scale (love anything I can use indoors so since getting back into the hobby the 1/24/1/28s have something aoiuyt them i just really like. Zues Garage if you want to see a K969 built into very special things (even has his own adaptable chassis length to fit any model of car. Fully custom (3D printing is next on my list as a result of his channel), well worth a look if not just to look at them in awe!
@@djmandrick Thanks for all the details, I will check it out how easy it is to put a one-way diff in the K989/969. Right now we are busy in the National Championship in 1:10 Touring cars (th-cam.com/video/valLznIuC7A/w-d-xo.html). I have one Tamiya TT01. Before you spend too much on upgrading one of those, consider buying a real racing touring car instead. When a new model is released the older used touring cars is sold cheaply. Any pro touring car is so much better than any TT01/02. It a whole other league. Alternatively a brand new Yokomo SD Sport (cheap version of pro touring car) can be bought new for around same price as a Tamiya TT01, but if you want to drift it's a bad choise as it has limited steering angle.
@@djmandrick Here is a video where we drive a Tamiya TT01 vs a Yokomo SD Sport. It might not be that obvious in this video as we are driving relatively slow, but the Yokomo is so much more precise th-cam.com/video/_7PiFWtkCDw/w-d-xo.html
@@LyhneRC great advice thank you. Its just me faffing about and want something to zoom round my kitchen/patio :D I've got a sprint 2 flux from back in the day and a Hyper ST that i never quite got the electric conversion running properly (no mounts or electric options were officially available back then). As for the tamiya it was a kit from ebay that came with a diferent motor and some hop ups they just never built it. i just bought a couple of others bits to build it "drifty" from the ground up. (like finding that a front one way) that i saw for really cheap. My friend does a wicked air brush paint job so it's mostly to get his shells on it. i got back into RC recently after about 12 years of "life" but there are no tracks or anything much near me as I'd love to get into it. I won't bother with steering angle adjustments for now (3d printable though it seems) but I do have a basic gyro reciver on a dumbo RC to put in it which is all I need. I originally started on the crusade of "can you build a small kitchen drifter for less than a miniz" which is where all the k989/969 research went (settling on the 123141 but that brought it's own differnces. The answer so far is "sort of but with different caveats!". :D
A smart cookie sinply gets a 4wd its a quick 2minute diy to lock that front diff but set in place? That's limiting yourself.
Hi, I'm not sure exactly what you mean, can you please explain more?
Some nice drifting there! Love your experiment and the explanation 👍🏻🙌🏻
Thanks, the nice drifting is Lyhne Junior 😀
@@LyhneRC super talented 😎
Il c'est pas roulé c'est tout 👋
Salut, je ne sais pas exactement ce que tu veux dire, peux-tu m'expliquer s'il te plait ?
Now I have ran about 9 tests with each an open and a lsd and a locked and everyone of forms will always tell you that locked will hurt cornering ability however with my tests in dry,wet and icey conditions the open dif will actually want to spin more than a locked giving off a “one tire fire” now with the limited slip it is basicly the best dif for just about everything however the test was to see if the locked was as bad as people say it is and shockingly the awnser is no the locked dif while sure it require more skill from the driver however in a corner you can swing the rear out a bit and sence both wheels are spinning at the same rate you can pull out of a corner even faster and even in tighter corners the locked dif by far was the most consistent with in terms of behavior and so the awnser of people telling you a locked dif is bad and sucks at cornering has been proven false what makes a locked dif bad at cornering is the cars over all set up and not the dif you run no matter the dif make sure the car is tuned and set up to run with it
Thanks for sharing your results. I fully agree with you. Locked diff is the most consistent, and that’s what you need. If don’t get the same response from the car on the same input, then you can’t push it and control it. Also setup is crucial when you go serious, as a competition racer, we spend lots of time on getting the right setup. Without that you are not going to win
@@LyhneRC I’m running a locked dif on my nitro for racing and the locked dif is I’d argue the best dif for tight corners because when you have proper grip in the rear since the tires are turning at the same rate the rear behaves like it’s on a pivot and the car can just get out of the corner so much faster than a open or lsd but if you ever want to get into racing I’d love to see you experiment with differentials on things like carpet racing because while my tests where done on asphalt I think it would be interesting to see it done on something with more grip but anyways thank you for the feedback and keep up the good work!
@asproductions6400 Thanks mate, feedback and comments like this is always great. We are doing carpet racing, on pretty high level actually. All 4x4 touring cars that races in this league all have locket front diff and oil filled rear diff, that’s the fastest combination on these carpet tracks:
th-cam.com/video/Sl59XeNRi7I/w-d-xo.html
I also did a test with the K989 to see if it got faster with a locket rear differential, and it actually did: WLToys K989, 284131 will it be faster with a locked front differential?
th-cam.com/video/IaK9rInmT_s/w-d-xo.html
@@LyhneRC you should try a rwd car next and test times with a locked differential
If the Wheel is spinning without grip, the diff hás little action.
Hi, I'm not sure exactly what you mean, could you please explain further?
@@LyhneRCHi, sorry. I meant that when the car is drifting/sliding, the rear diff has none or little action...
@MarcosMartinelli1 Yes, and it’s supposed so. I the diffs are open you may experience that one rear tire grips while the other doesn’t which abrupts the sliding movement. I saw a video once with a 1:1 BMW that drifted with open and closed diff, it drifted very poor with open diff.
👌👍✌
Thanks 😊
AweSome fun guys! Impressive indoor track guys! These little cars are awesome drifters. Great tutorial guys! Thanks for the tips! Very helpful!👍🏻👊🏼😊🍻
Thanks, the track is very easy to make.
Interesting I'm planning on running open diff in the back with some oil as I have a locked rear and open front but oddly I do not get the same result and in fact the opposite I have trouble with a lot of understeer but I believe it's what you suggested with the diff being too tight. I'm going to try out light oil front and heavier for rear for more realistic handling hopefully
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. Are you putting oil in the stock diffs or which are you using?
@@LyhneRC using stock diffs I smoothed it all out and used a silicone grease for front and red and tacky for the rear with both diffs open but in this configuration it drifts amazing and would say it's definitely worth a try. I catch my self counter steering more often and slower drifts are flowing better similar to cs mod but not as extreme
@@MatthewDoesStuffRC Sounds great, and does the grease stay in the diffs or did modify the diffs to seal them better?
very cool test bro 😃👌👍✌
Thanks Buddy 👍
I have run my 1/10th scale touring car with different diffs over the years for both touring and drifting and I think you can't have a setup thats works perfectly with everything, but completely open diffs are almost never good. I prefer to have a one-way diff in the front and a locked diff in the rear. It works well with carpet drift when it acts like a locked diff when accelerating and dosen't shift the weight to the front when braking, but it does break traction on the rear wheels whitch isn't always good especially at high speeds.
That’s an interesting setup, I’m not sure if you can get one way diff for these small cars. I agree that you can’t have a setup that is great for both race and drift, those are just too different. We also race 1:10 touring cars in a club, and there everybody uses locked diff in the front and diff with oil in the rear
That's good for rwd motion but I'll be showing in better simple mods
Hi there and a great explanation, of there comparison between an open differential and locked differential for the control of the car. Take care and best wishes 😊😊😁
Thanks John, glad you liked it 👍
Great video. This is really helpful for understanding whats the difference 👍🏻 i will upgrade two🤩
I’m glad I could help 😀, thanks for watching and comments 👍
So is it ok if I lock my rwd drift car
Yes, that would make it easier to drift because both rear wheels slips at the same time - more predictable. 1:1 drift cars also has locked rear diff.
@@LyhneRC thank you
@@addyrcshorts No problem 😉
This would be great to set up for winter ... nice mate
It’s perfect for winter when weather is too bad outside, the track is simple to make and use: Mini Z, WLToys K989 Track Ideas - how to make/build/create track
th-cam.com/video/QW2gWJ4hva4/w-d-xo.html
Very interesting video my Friend. Thanks for sharing with us 🙏😻😻👍
Thanks, I hope you found it useful 👍
@@LyhneRC of corse my friend. 👏👏👍
I did the oposite, rear dif open, front closed, and works well...
Haven’t heard that combination before for drifting. That’s how a 1:10 scale touring car is setup for racing at high grip carpet tracks. I will try that, thanks for sharing 👍
Cool video and information on the rc's
Thanks buddy 👍
Excellent review, thanks for testing this out 👍😀
Thanks, glad you like it 👍
i just got my 284131, would you recommend me to lock both diffs? or should i just leave them alone cuz i can drift it pretty good with stock everything, i just put the drift tires on... but its hard to get precise drifts with the stock setup
Depends on how tight your diffs are, mine 284131 was so tight it would act like locked diffs with drift tires, because drift tires has so little grip the diffs don’t need to fully closed. It is hard to drift with such a small car without upgrades. Have you made the steering lock mod?
@@LyhneRC the only upgrades ive done so far is i moved the servo screw to the top hole for better steering angle and i made the wheelbase longer... other than that its fully stock. its not too tight as ive taken it apart and cleaned up the gears a little bit but it just seems like it doesnt want to hold lines very well... im thinking a gyro will help incredibly
It could be because of the dead spot in the radio, I am currently working on a video for that. I have gyro in my mini Q but he it turned off. I am not fan of gyro. It takes some practice to master these small cars
Exactly what I needed to know, thanks!
Great 👍, glad I could help 😃
I cant help but wonder if rubbers on the back tires to increase their grip would help things... clearly, that's not what you should do... but it would be amusing. Also just... I can't get over "HOOTNIGA" being on the car. That's priceless. Absolutely priceless. When I get my metal knuckles (dont power slide into chair legs with your wheels) I will put my drift tires on... and I didn't fix my diffs (i want them to either break or wear in, dont ask me why) so I'll see what happens. maybe the nearly locked stock diffs will drift good. Or I'll hit another chair leg and break something new.
The Hootnigan is priceless 😂🤣, I wonder if they don’t know it’s spelled wrong 🤪. On my carpet rubbers tires wouldn’t work if I wanted to drift. If you watch the end of my K989 vs K969 video then in the end the K969 almost drifts with rubber tires on wooden floor. The trick is to find the best wheels/diff combo that works on your surface.
remove the suspension spacers front and back, when running closed rear/ open front diff. This should resolve your steering issues.
I’m not sure how’s that should fix the issue, but I will try that, thanks for the tip 👍 👍
@@LyhneRC I got it from this video: th-cam.com/video/18Uwyem_-hw/w-d-xo.html no idea why/ how it works, but you definitely notice it
Thanks for the details, I will check that. But I still wonder why that helps, because removing spacers makes suspension softer which provides more grip, and I have too much grip. I race at competition level, so I know much about that, but not that much about drifting, so maybe things works differently there 🤪
Nice video, great little cars I've 2 k989's as I found them at a very low price and modified one into k969 by using ball diffs with full metal gearing and drift wheels and k969 body. I got it all for good prices so it cost me about rrp for a new k969. I've got the diff locked at rear and and semi tight in th3 front ( I'm still testing it )
Thanks for the kind words 😀. They are great little cars. Good luck with the project, please let me know how it works out 👍
@@LyhneRC unfortunately after a few test runs the metel gear stripped the diffs. So I went back to original running gear might try again with plastic ball diffs or k969 original diffs next month.
@@jakomathstwo Strange why the metal gears didn't last. I have only used stock gears and we have being using the cars a lot, especially the K989 and so far nothing has broken
@@LyhneRC the diffs I bought were very soft metal, the metal gear just stripped the teeth. The only original parts I've broken have been the rear drive cup's so far. The standard parts are pretty good 👍
Ok 👍
Great race
Thanks Buddy 👍
To lock a diff open it up cut use balls of small paper to fill it then turn the diff to force the paper inbetween the gears. Fill the rest squueze as much in as possible. Then screw it shut again. Twist hte diff to ensure it is locked. You don't need to buy a fixed diff you can do this to any open diff. Open it and fill it with anything, blue tac as can be removed or just silicone or glue it if you want it permanent). Hot glue the cogs, anything to stop the gears inside working. Poke a strip of paper between the gears then force rotate the diff to lock the cogs. Put it back together. And free.
Options for RWD may differ but for these cheap AWD ones I've got, converting to RWD will just spin on accelleration if you leave the front diff open. Locking both front and rear is cheap and easy as it is but has a disadvantage that the car will brake immediately as soon as you let of the throttle though so entry into the apex or entry to the bend it will suddenly brake. The whole drift will jump start between tracktion and autbraking - on a prpoer set up the fronts will roll to prevent this. This allows a more fluid drift. No front free- rolling if you lock it. Front one way is the best diff in the front, it allows forward free-roll to prevent that sudden braking but progressive lock-on when acceleration giving you grip to apply the front drive train to keep the car washing wide on an exit of a bend. No open diffs for drifting as you can't maintain a slide consistently, it will understeer on entry and drift wide with understeer on the exit. Explains why the "track style 989" has open diffs. and the 969 which was drift has locked diffs. HTe cheapest wa to do that hence fron and back are already locked. Just for anyone wondering my findings. Unless you are going to apply a drift-steering mod and drift-gyro, RWD is not an option of this scale (not that this was mentioned jsut for more info, I leave mine all AWD. If looking to buy all those to this a driftable car you may as wwll just buy a better class of drift car you may as well just buy a miniz of rolling drift chassis, than buy bits and rebuild this into something proper. In short best is to lock rear and get an adjustable one you can add to the front. try it out and experiment with front being different tightnesses, so loosen or tighten with the screw to your best outcome for your use case scenario. Failing that lock if you don't like any of them just lock the front go and enjoy it. I liked the video, nicely done.
Hi, what a nice comment. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge. Locking a diff permanently is easy, especially these small ones, I experiment so I prefer to switch from open to locked diff instead of modifying an open diff so that I can quickly change back. And I agree that a one-way diff in front is probably the best, but I haven't seen them available for this car, have you seen that? A diff with adjustable lock is available, so maybe I should try that out. Again thanks for your input 👍👍👍
@@LyhneRC Thanks for the response. For one way I've researched (See Studio55 YT channel, and Beaver Hobby Channel also) you can use one from a MiniZ, MiniQ (cheaper version from aliexpress/bangood) or ther is another make I can't remember but you then need 2mm longer drive shafts. Again those can be bought from AliExpress. The K969 and K989 have shorter CVDs as the original front diff is a little wider. You can also do a one spring front suspention conversion (yet to do that or fit a one way diff in anything). I recently bought a TT02D kit and a lot of hopups to build it how I want from the beginning and the bits so will be trying one out on those. Can't get a front one way for my 1/10 HPI Sprint 2 as that is so old they can't be found anywhere anymore. Anyway dont want to ramble off topic but a couple of YT channels to check out on the small scale (love anything I can use indoors so since getting back into the hobby the 1/24/1/28s have something aoiuyt them i just really like. Zues Garage if you want to see a K969 built into very special things (even has his own adaptable chassis length to fit any model of car. Fully custom (3D printing is next on my list as a result of his channel), well worth a look if not just to look at them in awe!
@@djmandrick Thanks for all the details, I will check it out how easy it is to put a one-way diff in the K989/969. Right now we are busy in the National Championship in 1:10 Touring cars (th-cam.com/video/valLznIuC7A/w-d-xo.html). I have one Tamiya TT01. Before you spend too much on upgrading one of those, consider buying a real racing touring car instead. When a new model is released the older used touring cars is sold cheaply. Any pro touring car is so much better than any TT01/02. It a whole other league. Alternatively a brand new Yokomo SD Sport (cheap version of pro touring car) can be bought new for around same price as a Tamiya TT01, but if you want to drift it's a bad choise as it has limited steering angle.
@@djmandrick Here is a video where we drive a Tamiya TT01 vs a Yokomo SD Sport. It might not be that obvious in this video as we are driving relatively slow, but the Yokomo is so much more precise th-cam.com/video/_7PiFWtkCDw/w-d-xo.html
@@LyhneRC great advice thank you. Its just me faffing about and want something to zoom round my kitchen/patio :D I've got a sprint 2 flux from back in the day and a Hyper ST that i never quite got the electric conversion running properly (no mounts or electric options were officially available back then). As for the tamiya it was a kit from ebay that came with a diferent motor and some hop ups they just never built it. i just bought a couple of others bits to build it "drifty" from the ground up. (like finding that a front one way) that i saw for really cheap. My friend does a wicked air brush paint job so it's mostly to get his shells on it. i got back into RC recently after about 12 years of "life" but there are no tracks or anything much near me as I'd love to get into it. I won't bother with steering angle adjustments for now (3d printable though it seems) but I do have a basic gyro reciver on a dumbo RC to put in it which is all I need. I originally started on the crusade of "can you build a small kitchen drifter for less than a miniz" which is where all the k989/969 research went (settling on the 123141 but that brought it's own differnces. The answer so far is "sort of but with different caveats!". :D
great drifting
Thanks my friend 👍
Thank you so much! This helped me so much when choosing what car I would buy and what setup I would have. Thank you!
You are welcome, I’m glad my video could help. Thanks for the feedback, it made my day better 👍