Good question and thank you, if I remember correctly it's too short for the stock CVDs so you would need to get the extended ones, I think it's designed for a narrow chassis while the K969 is a wide chassis and I'm not sure if the gears line up perfectly or not and since I'm running metal spur gears, I want metal teeth on the diff which the Kyosho gear is plastic. Also I think the Kyosho rigid axle is the the most expensive of all the diffs too so I'm trying to focus more on the cheaper options. I'll take another look though and let you know if I'm wrong on anything about the rigid axle.
Thank you, I got most of the parts off AliExpress over a year ago and unfortunately I can't give any links since these Chinese sellers either don't sell the same items or change their inventory all the time so I can't guarantee you'll get these same parts I did. Just look around and check reviews to see if people are getting what is shown in the pictures to lower the chances of getting the wrong parts, it sucks I know. I've received the wrong parts multiple times before it can be frustrating luckily some of those parts were under 5 bucks so it's not too bad and sometimes I can find another use for since dealing with returning them almost isn't even worth it. It can be like playing Russian roulette when ordering parts lol Sorry man.
Some are bad and others are good but still need some grinding and manipulation to work right. Its not for everyone, if you don't wanna use them stick with plastic. In my other videos I go over this stuff more in depth and for me I got all the metal parts working exactly how I want them and won't be going back to plastic since the metal is far more durable. Not many others out there have gotten the metal parts to work as well as I have because I put the time in to make them work.
@@williamsaloka9043 Understandable, I ran the plastic for a long time but they got really worn out and hard to keep the ball from popping out especially with the extreme angle I push them with my suspension set up. These new metal swing arms with the ball heads instead of screws are more on par with what I needed, just gotta get rid of the extra sloppy movement in the ball joint area and grind a lil bit of material away to get them to lean in more and then they are good. I found a method for both and will go over it more in the next few vids. I hope you have fun with yours and if everything is working the way you want then no need to change it.
Sorry the last few videos I've been working on swing arms and suspension and kinda didn't notice you're commenting on the differentials video lol but same thing if plastic works for you then don't worry about the metal, if you did run a metal diff you almost have to run metal spur gears/pinions since they eat through the plastic. there are a couple good metal gears out there and some are terrible so that's why you'll hear about the bad ones people have got that are basically unusable, just depends on how lucky you get when ordering from Chinese sellers lol
Out of my experience, it is a big time scam the metal parts most of it is just nice to look but actually degrades the car performance totally, and ball the ball heads are replaced with screw. Too tight the tires can't spin, loose they will keep falling out whenever you play so total waste of money and time. The metal diffs require longer dog bone, so you have to keep spending money and at the end, for sure you will go back to the original plastic ones
To be honest I feel that both the metal and plastic parts for these Wltoys cars are pretty garbage but this video is for those who have already got the metal parts or just want to try it out if they don't like the plastic. I've had mine for so long now and have had the metal diffs for over a year as well and barely used them since I was using the plastic instead, I figured I would give them some use finally. There are some new bottom metal swing arms that don't use the screws any more and use the small ball heads if you look closely in my video you'll see they are different but yea the old versions were total trash so I always used the plastic. I will go over those in the next couple of videos but even they will still need a lil bit of dremel work. I go over all the pros and cons and let people decide if they want to waste their time and money or not, I never tell anyone they have to do this. I like tinkering so I don't mind the extra work and just show how the process went along the way. Thanks for sharing your experience and I agree that lots of these parts are basically a scam.
@@AirToGroundRCFPV sorry don't mean to condemn your video, just giving my honest opinion, wasted a lot of cash on the metal arms. Regardless new or old, they keep falling and if you use locite. That is the end, I had to throw away the parts cause even using heat the inside thread was damaged.
@@Raj_RDX No need to be sorry bro, I wasted money on parts too. There are a few salvageable parts but not many. If you watch my first video, you'll see I'm using the plastic bottom swing arms and metal top arms. That's really all I could make work at the time, but these new bottom swing arms I think I can make work so I'll go over that in my part 4 video. Trust me I understand how annoying all these metal parts are and wish they could make some shit that just works lol I like to problem solve and fix things though, so maybe some stuff I come up with can give you some ideas to make some of these parts still useable but if you are already past that point and want to stick with the plastic I totally understand and am on your side. I like to torture myself with these builds so if you just want to watch my frustration over this for you're own enjoyment is fine by me as well haha and sorry if I came off too direct or anything, I really don't want anyone to waste their time or money either
@@AirToGroundRCFPV sounds fair, the main part about the 1/28 wltoys is trial and error. I agree. So please don't stop posting these videos, gives a good insight on what mods are worth buying
@@Raj_RDX Trial and error is almost an understatement lol but will do, I already have part 3 and 4 pre recorded and will drop one video a week this month but still have more work to do when I have time. If the metal parts don't work out, I have plastic parts to swap back to either way
…its all badly made cnc with worn out tools ill-fitting and wrongly engineered crap…they range from very bad via unusable to actually self-destructing parts!!!…as an example that ball-bearing diff with squared theeth cog wheel that eating up itself and connecting cogs…or the sloppy rods…rattling wheelhubs…
Yes I know, stick with the plastic then. I'm not telling you this is what you have to do, I'm just showing what I did to make them work for me. I fixed most of all the problems with many of the metal parts and are useable for what I want. Watch all my other videos and you'll see the progression of how I got most parts to work. Not every metal part is fixable I get it. Don't get upset at me if you couldn't get anything to work, I'm not the Chinese company selling this garbage but it's all there is to choose from out there for the K969 chassis. I'm happy with how everything turned out on my build, I just had to put in extra work to get it there. I'm sorry these parts suck but it's not my fault and I'm just making the best out of the situation, once again I never said in my videos you have to use the metal parts, usually I tell people don't waste your time if you don't want to deal with the hassle. I'm making these videos for fun and enjoy tinkering and problem solving, that's it. Also I'm sorry if I sound a little blunt, I get these comments all the time and wish we didn't have to deal with all this crap and things just worked without wasting our money.
Question, you can't just use the kyosho rigid diff?
But good informative video!
Good question and thank you, if I remember correctly it's too short for the stock CVDs so you would need to get the extended ones, I think it's designed for a narrow chassis while the K969 is a wide chassis and I'm not sure if the gears line up perfectly or not and since I'm running metal spur gears, I want metal teeth on the diff which the Kyosho gear is plastic. Also I think the Kyosho rigid axle is the the most expensive of all the diffs too so I'm trying to focus more on the cheaper options. I'll take another look though and let you know if I'm wrong on anything about the rigid axle.
Good Work, It is possible that you leave us the links of the metal pieces?
Thank you, I got most of the parts off AliExpress over a year ago and unfortunately I can't give any links since these Chinese sellers either don't sell the same items or change their inventory all the time so I can't guarantee you'll get these same parts I did. Just look around and check reviews to see if people are getting what is shown in the pictures to lower the chances of getting the wrong parts, it sucks I know. I've received the wrong parts multiple times before it can be frustrating luckily some of those parts were under 5 bucks so it's not too bad and sometimes I can find another use for since dealing with returning them almost isn't even worth it. It can be like playing Russian roulette when ordering parts lol Sorry man.
I hear these metal upgrades are mostly pretty bad and really not needed. I'm keeping mine stock.
Some are bad and others are good but still need some grinding and manipulation to work right. Its not for everyone, if you don't wanna use them stick with plastic. In my other videos I go over this stuff more in depth and for me I got all the metal parts working exactly how I want them and won't be going back to plastic since the metal is far more durable. Not many others out there have gotten the metal parts to work as well as I have because I put the time in to make them work.
@@AirToGroundRCFPV I get that. I think they run pretty good when tweaked a little Mostly stock works for my purposes.
@@williamsaloka9043 Understandable, I ran the plastic for a long time but they got really worn out and hard to keep the ball from popping out especially with the extreme angle I push them with my suspension set up. These new metal swing arms with the ball heads instead of screws are more on par with what I needed, just gotta get rid of the extra sloppy movement in the ball joint area and grind a lil bit of material away to get them to lean in more and then they are good. I found a method for both and will go over it more in the next few vids. I hope you have fun with yours and if everything is working the way you want then no need to change it.
Sorry the last few videos I've been working on swing arms and suspension and kinda didn't notice you're commenting on the differentials video lol but same thing if plastic works for you then don't worry about the metal, if you did run a metal diff you almost have to run metal spur gears/pinions since they eat through the plastic. there are a couple good metal gears out there and some are terrible so that's why you'll hear about the bad ones people have got that are basically unusable, just depends on how lucky you get when ordering from Chinese sellers lol
Out of my experience, it is a big time scam the metal parts most of it is just nice to look but actually degrades the car performance totally, and ball the ball heads are replaced with screw. Too tight the tires can't spin, loose they will keep falling out whenever you play so total waste of money and time. The metal diffs require longer dog bone, so you have to keep spending money and at the end, for sure you will go back to the original plastic ones
To be honest I feel that both the metal and plastic parts for these Wltoys cars are pretty garbage but this video is for those who have already got the metal parts or just want to try it out if they don't like the plastic. I've had mine for so long now and have had the metal diffs for over a year as well and barely used them since I was using the plastic instead, I figured I would give them some use finally. There are some new bottom metal swing arms that don't use the screws any more and use the small ball heads if you look closely in my video you'll see they are different but yea the old versions were total trash so I always used the plastic. I will go over those in the next couple of videos but even they will still need a lil bit of dremel work. I go over all the pros and cons and let people decide if they want to waste their time and money or not, I never tell anyone they have to do this. I like tinkering so I don't mind the extra work and just show how the process went along the way. Thanks for sharing your experience and I agree that lots of these parts are basically a scam.
@@AirToGroundRCFPV sorry don't mean to condemn your video, just giving my honest opinion, wasted a lot of cash on the metal arms. Regardless new or old, they keep falling and if you use locite. That is the end, I had to throw away the parts cause even using heat the inside thread was damaged.
@@Raj_RDX No need to be sorry bro, I wasted money on parts too. There are a few salvageable parts but not many. If you watch my first video, you'll see I'm using the plastic bottom swing arms and metal top arms. That's really all I could make work at the time, but these new bottom swing arms I think I can make work so I'll go over that in my part 4 video. Trust me I understand how annoying all these metal parts are and wish they could make some shit that just works lol I like to problem solve and fix things though, so maybe some stuff I come up with can give you some ideas to make some of these parts still useable but if you are already past that point and want to stick with the plastic I totally understand and am on your side. I like to torture myself with these builds so if you just want to watch my frustration over this for you're own enjoyment is fine by me as well haha and sorry if I came off too direct or anything, I really don't want anyone to waste their time or money either
@@AirToGroundRCFPV sounds fair, the main part about the 1/28 wltoys is trial and error. I agree. So please don't stop posting these videos, gives a good insight on what mods are worth buying
@@Raj_RDX Trial and error is almost an understatement lol but will do, I already have part 3 and 4 pre recorded and will drop one video a week this month but still have more work to do when I have time. If the metal parts don't work out, I have plastic parts to swap back to either way
…its all badly made cnc with worn out tools ill-fitting and wrongly engineered crap…they range from very bad via unusable to actually self-destructing parts!!!…as an example that ball-bearing diff with squared theeth cog wheel that eating up itself and connecting cogs…or the sloppy rods…rattling wheelhubs…
Yes I know, stick with the plastic then. I'm not telling you this is what you have to do, I'm just showing what I did to make them work for me. I fixed most of all the problems with many of the metal parts and are useable for what I want. Watch all my other videos and you'll see the progression of how I got most parts to work. Not every metal part is fixable I get it. Don't get upset at me if you couldn't get anything to work, I'm not the Chinese company selling this garbage but it's all there is to choose from out there for the K969 chassis. I'm happy with how everything turned out on my build, I just had to put in extra work to get it there. I'm sorry these parts suck but it's not my fault and I'm just making the best out of the situation, once again I never said in my videos you have to use the metal parts, usually I tell people don't waste your time if you don't want to deal with the hassle. I'm making these videos for fun and enjoy tinkering and problem solving, that's it. Also I'm sorry if I sound a little blunt, I get these comments all the time and wish we didn't have to deal with all this crap and things just worked without wasting our money.