Heck yeah, another TH-camr once took their diesels out of their yacht for gas LS and it was stupid. Going from gas to diesel makes all the sense in the world. Fantastic
@@summertop511Well they DID get it re-floated. I stopped following it when the insurance issue came up plus the entire thing was just too reckless for me.
Highly suggest glassing in new beams for your engine mounts. Those beams tied into the transom act just as a car/truck frame. Once you apply the torque of a strong engine, there's a chance it could separate those old beams from the floor. You would be stuck right back to pulling the engine and outdrive again to replacing the beams and glassing them in. Can't wait to see the end result of your project. FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!
Same idea to also consider the mentality of risk it vs know for sure. Glassing in has the ease of mind that you know that it will be as good as can be reasonably done. Likely with better than factory materials.
Aaron and Em, several commenters have talked about potential issues presented by the high torque of the diesel engine (beefing up stringers and engine mounts etc,) but an additional significant area of concern when putting a diesel in front of and alpha or bravo drive is the drive capacity to handle high power and more specifically, HIGH TORQUE. The bravo is a very beefy drive but only designed to handle so much torque. Subjecting the drive to drop throttle starts that load the drive above its torque limit can be problematic for reasons I probably dont have to explain to you. Make sure you check your specs for compatibility in this regard if you havent already. Mercruiser does make a special X and XR series bravo for diesel and high output gas engines. To my knowledge, mercury does not recommend the bravo for any diesel applications. Bravo X will handle gas engines up to 600hp and diesels up to 370HP. Not sure about the XR. Do some research. This is a challenging project. Im impressed with your skill and courage to take it on.
I will give ya a tip since your going this far when the engine is done add an adapter to the drain for the oil pan add a tube to bring it out beside the engine add a shutoff valve then add a longer tube that is threaded to that to add a cap just in case the valve opens for some reason, but the main reason is you remove the cap add a hose the you can crack open the shutoff valve then you can suck out the oil from the bottom and make it faster and easy to do oil changes !!
On some boats they pull the drain hose for the oil pan out the drain plug in the bottom. Great idea as I was thinking the same idea. I can’t wait to see how this works out. I’m a dirtymax fan and love mine. Awesome videos!
Check out the torque specs between both motors that will give you an indication if you need to replace the stringers. It will also depend on which prop you are using. The pitch will cause different stress levels. You need to research the correct pitch for the RPM you will have to maximize your planning speed and cruising speed. You could use a variable pitch prop but that is expensive but can be an option. By the way, a variable pitch prop makes docking and maneuvering so much easier. Hope this helps. Also make sure both motors are rotating in the same direction.
The rot in the stringer ends will continue to rot. The rot is a fungus,, .. It must be removed to last any length of time. It might be handy to remove the top off the stringer Past the motor mounts and use pressure treated wood to replace it... Simple is usually the best. Then lay matting with directional over it to cover the stringer. Also making a knee brace from the stringers to the transom while you are at it is a good idea too. (20 + years of boat racing, building and fixing here)
@@86foureyefreak22 Sorry.. Here in CA we have a copper sulfate pressure treating that is not oil base... Mixing polyester resin and acetone 50/50 and soaking in a first coat works... You can also use heart redwood but more layers of glass are needed. You might try oak with you painting on water base coper sulfate preservative can work too. Even eucalyptus is outstanding also. Most of all just replace the top portion of the stringer with new lumber and glass over it..
FSG aka Aaron + Emily, very smart move from a safety and efficiency perspective! Changing diameter and blade pitch on the prop can adjust RPM differences re knots per hour, planning etc. You two are the A-team!
If you’re going to remove the pistons, check out speed of air pistons online. Make great pistons for diesels. Engine will run quieter and more efficiently. Seriously, check them out, you won’t regret it.
I like this! Considering all the problems with gasoline on boats (storage, fire risk, etc), I don't understand why diesel isn't the standard in all marine applications.
NOT a boat builder, but enjoy the stuff the Ship Happens couple are doing to their boats. They're rebuilding a wooden WWII Harbor Defense Motor Launch, and are replacing portions of stringers, frames and deck beams with scarf joints. They epoxy and bolt them into place. I'd think if it works for a 70-foot twin Cat ML, it'll work for your boat. I'd think some Coosa Board 'wedges between the back of the engine stringer and transom would be plenty strong when epoxied into place. You could drive a couple of long SS lag bolts from the back of the boat through the transom and stringer to hold things together even better, then 'glass over that. They also have a twin Cat speed boat they're doing work on. No hull work, but good info there, too. Their two engines are in an engine compartment not much bigger than the engine compartment on your boat, and turbo heat is no big deal there.
Enjoy your channel, I'm a retired aircraft maintenance guy so it's fun watching. Something about us mechanic types. Really enjoy Dave's Auto Center on YT; so your Duramax brought to mind a couple of videos from his channel concerning the crank shaft pins he says is weak. (he puts in a keyway, and a new video about 8 days ago on Speed pistons which is serious detail on piston design that I'd love to try someday. Thanks for the work you put into this channel, love it!!!
I think you are on the right path. More torque, better fuel efficiency and better longevity for what you want. Plus you can get about the same RPM as the big block because they originally used the 396 for the first generation of junk diesel engines. I'm glad that GM keeps the same Bell housing and still a similar side mount for easy swaps. But the most important thing is seeing Aaron back to working on a diesel again 😊. I can't wait to see you guys have fun again in the water.
Great content. I once presented a technical paper on reverse engineering. One thing we found helpful on complex fit-up situations was to take digital photo from above [the plan view] and then write the dimensions measured on the photo. Save many trips to re-measure and rework later.
Was literally typing question about keeping exhaust cool without water jacketed manifolds as you answered at the end! Youve already thought of everything! ha great project good luck and cant wait to follow more!
This is mind blowing guys. If anybody can do it, it's you two. I can't wait to see this boat run. Watching it all come together is going to be exciting.
EVERYBODY throws shade on the LB7, and although most of that is because of the injectors, it's not a fav. The LB7 in our '02 Sierra has been rock-solid, however. 90% of the time, the truck has been towing our race car and has been great for that. If the 3208 in our Wanderlodge ever dies I'd strongly-consider a Duramax replacement for it.
Aaron hit up the local EAA chapter, there is usually one or two that have built a fiberglass airplane, they would be a great resource for any re engineering you need to do with the composites.
For the stringers and tying it all back into the Coosa, well worth watching Andy at Boatwork Today's series on the rebuilding the transom of his Bertram. Great series of videos and will answer all the questions you have. He'll be sure to help you too. Good to hear that the exhaust turbo manifold cooling and water injection is being dealt with, that did worry me somewhat but I should have realised that you'd both have it all in hand. Cheers from the UK
This is an awesome conversion. There's already been a ton of helpful comments from knowledgeable marine folks. You're going to be getting much more to help you guys through this conversion. This just shows the great following you two get!
Sounds like a great swap. Exhaust manifolds could be the major issue. If somebody else has done one, all the better. Freeboard is important(distance from waterline to exhaust highest point after turbo). Look forward to the build.
Oh I’m so happy to actually see someone do a Duramax swap in something instead of swapping a Cummins!!! Everyone is always doing a Cummins swap instead of the Duramax swaps and I say it’s because everyone likes the simplicity of what all you actually need to run a Cummins!!! I see square body trucks out there with Cummins in them along with plenty of other vehicles out there but very rarely do I ever get to see a Duramax swap in any thing!!! I’ve always told myself that if I ever go putting a diesel engine in one of my square body trucks or even any one of my 1967-1972 Chevy trucks it would definitely be a Duramax swap for sure and definitely Not a Cummins swap!!! My Duramax I have now is a 2007 classic body style and I have had it since 2010 and it also has definitely helped me recover on my last truck that I had and ended up literally paying for it twice in full and that definitely put me in the hole badly but after selling that truck and getting my Duramax I have definitely been recuperating the money that I have lost on my last truck because I have had to do absolutely nothing to my duramax at all other than regular maintenance things on it!!! I’m definitely really hoping that I can learn from you on how you end up doing everything for the swap and maybe that will help me get a better idea on what I might need or what I might have to look for in putting a Duramax in one of my square body trucks that I have definitely been wanting to do for quite some time now!!! Awesome video for sure and I am definitely looking forward to many more videos on this build for sure!!!!
Your alignment issues will come when you go to put the outdrive back on. There is a tool(easily made) that will align the gimbel bearing with the hub. Otherwise the drive shaft will not go in no matter how much you struggle. I don't believe I still have the one we made--but if we made it, anything is possible
Come on! Let's stay with one project! I'm not getting any younger & would like to see this finished,I mean how many projects can ...never mind, just hope you don't start another one!
I would build a cradle between the stringers out of aluminum stock to help handle that torque. Most ski / wakeboard boats have this setup. Wood stringers are always an issue, but you may not have the ability to replace enough of the stringer system with a composite setup. Brace what is there.
Now this going to a great conversion look forward to this one! Hope you use raycor fuel fuel filter set up to motor with cat conversion fuel filter to engine srew on 25:22
Good luck, you two are awesome. Just to take on this project is so cool, and I'm sure many of your viewers are going to watch everything you post. Thanks for sharing, and stay safe.
I don't know much about boats, but that looks like a great swap , Aaron sure is a knowledgeable mechanic, great job you two hard working young people . PS Emily is such a great speaker making everything you do so easy to understand, and so beautiful . Lots of love from pa ❤❤❤
Love you guys. While you’re in there with engine out, replace or patch stringers. What ever yall decide to do, that structure will last another 20 years. Love from Waco Tx.
Hey Aaron, if you have some extra room in the height department I would like to suggest tying the the 2 stingers together. make 2 cross members to form a square and then do a triangle off of each stringer and out towards the sides of the boat. The diesels torque will hit a lot harder and lower than the gas engine you removed. I have seen different setups rip out an engine mount out of the stringer. The first time was a nice searay 42' that was converted from gas. Believe it or not I know everyone will have an opinion but use marine plywood and stainless steel for the square box (keep in mind where that oil pan extends. This is a great project and I will be sure to watch your progress.
You should replace the engine mounts in the boat that way you ken last longer then the boat. Plus you could give the engine bay a good scrub and repaint. Will look minted if all spotless.
We have a cabin cruiser like yours, it had 7.4 Mercruiser and about 7 years ago we re powered with a 4 cylinder Yanmar diesel, it wasn't cheap but we haven't had a single problem since, lots of power. We use our boat all the time and love it. No more dead on the water problems like we had many times with the 7.4 engine. Good fuel saving too.
I would stabilize the runners with aluminum square tubing or plates and you can hook it to the transom with bolts or a plate to the tramsom and run it as far forward as needed to satbilize the motor. just my thoughts tho.
Hey guys I just bought my first Bayliner 2858 Ciera Command Bridge and my first thought was to diesel swap it. My quest for “how possible is this” lead me to your channel and I am very excited to follow along your journey.
This is going to be awesome. I plan on doing the exact same thing (x2) I have a 2000 Cruisers Yacht 3375 that needs a complete restoration. Twin 454s that I want to swap out with Duramax. Definitely going to watch this build.
Brilliant swap idea Aaron with the important parts bolting right up with just a flywheel change. I will say I respect your knowledge, small block ford guy here, I see a mess of valves n computer controlled things that would be a no go for me. Riveted on your builds and thanks for being real.
You might need a new (or different) propeller to bring it out of the water up on plane. If I can find the chart, I'll send it to you. Looking forward to the Duramax rebuild or go through or whatever you call it.
great idea, you do need to remember to finish the transom. you should glass in the perimeter, that would tie in the transom to the rest of the boats hull.
Interesting project. They started running diesels in the large jet boats in our area (Snake River). It seems like the larger boats had 3 engines and pumps. Aluminum boats so the fab work was easier in my mind!
Fantastic! Me personally? Thinking CAT C7, mid 2000s vintage, pre DEF. But great choice. Again, lower RPM, More Torque, may need to look gears and prop. Have Fun!
I just love your channel the way you to work together and that you involve your family to help and teach them how to fix things don’t stop doing what you’re doing God bless you and your family stay safe out there 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🌹🌹🍺🍺
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Heck yeah, another TH-camr once took their diesels out of their yacht for gas LS and it was stupid. Going from gas to diesel makes all the sense in the world. Fantastic
Italian yacht to be correct lol. Then it mysteriously sank. Hmmmmm
@@summertop511Well they DID get it re-floated. I stopped following it when the insurance issue came up plus the entire thing was just too reckless for me.
and then it sank due to stupidity and he complained insurance wouldn't cover his obvious insurance scam
As I said in another post, F is for Fail, replacing diesel with gas in an Italian scow.
For your cooling needs, implement closed loop cooling. Run antifreeze in it vs water. Or dex-cool.
Highly suggest glassing in new beams for your engine mounts. Those beams tied into the transom act just as a car/truck frame. Once you apply the torque of a strong engine, there's a chance it could separate those old beams from the floor. You would be stuck right back to pulling the engine and outdrive again to replacing the beams and glassing them in. Can't wait to see the end result of your project. FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!
Good point!
Same idea to also consider the mentality of risk it vs know for sure. Glassing in has the ease of mind that you know that it will be as good as can be reasonably done. Likely with better than factory materials.
It's gonna be a shit load torqueier than the petrol. Cannot agree more
Called stringers.
Thank you so much!!!!
Glad to see a youtuber swapping gas for diesel and not diesel to gas in a boat!
F is for fail, you mean?😂
@@Torch4ya 🤣
Aaron and Em, several commenters have talked about potential issues presented by the high torque of the diesel engine (beefing up stringers and engine mounts etc,) but an additional significant area of concern when putting a diesel in front of and alpha or bravo drive is the drive capacity to handle high power and more specifically, HIGH TORQUE. The bravo is a very beefy drive but only designed to handle so much torque. Subjecting the drive to drop throttle starts that load the drive above its torque limit can be problematic for reasons I probably dont have to explain to you. Make sure you check your specs for compatibility in this regard if you havent already. Mercruiser does make a special X and XR series bravo for diesel and high output gas engines. To my knowledge, mercury does not recommend the bravo for any diesel applications. Bravo X will handle gas engines up to 600hp and diesels up to 370HP. Not sure about the XR. Do some research. This is a challenging project. Im impressed with your skill and courage to take it on.
I will give ya a tip since your going this far when the engine is done add an adapter to the drain for the oil pan add a tube to bring it out beside the engine add a shutoff valve then add a longer tube that is threaded to that to add a cap just in case the valve opens for some reason, but the main reason is you remove the cap add a hose the you can crack open the shutoff valve then you can suck out the oil from the bottom and make it faster and easy to do oil changes !!
On some boats they pull the drain hose for the oil pan out the drain plug in the bottom. Great idea as I was thinking the same idea. I can’t wait to see how this works out. I’m a dirtymax fan and love mine. Awesome videos!
it is so good to see a wife working with her husband on this project good luck guys
The outdrive alignment tool will be a necessity for aligning the engine coupling to the outdrive. It will make life so much easier.
He mentioned that
@@MrSuzukiyamaha you don’t miss a trick!
Check out the torque specs between both motors that will give you an indication if you need to replace the stringers. It will also depend on which prop you are using. The pitch will cause different stress levels. You need to research the correct pitch for the RPM you will have to maximize your planning speed and cruising speed. You could use a variable pitch prop but that is expensive but can be an option. By the way, a variable pitch prop makes docking and maneuvering so much easier. Hope this helps. Also make sure both motors are rotating in the same direction.
The rot in the stringer ends will continue to rot. The rot is a fungus,, .. It must be removed to last any length of time. It might be handy to remove the top off the stringer Past the motor mounts and use pressure treated wood to replace it... Simple is usually the best. Then lay matting with directional over it to cover the stringer. Also making a knee brace from the stringers to the transom while you are at it is a good idea too. (20 + years of boat racing, building and fixing here)
Never use pressure treated lumber, can’t glass it.
@@86foureyefreak22 Sorry.. Here in CA we have a copper sulfate pressure treating that is not oil base... Mixing polyester resin and acetone 50/50 and soaking in a first coat works... You can also use heart redwood but more layers of glass are needed. You might try oak with you painting on water base coper sulfate preservative can work too. Even eucalyptus is outstanding also. Most of all just replace the top portion of the stringer with new lumber and glass over it..
If you could find some teak, that would be my choice
@@MrDmorgan52 That would be an excellent choice
high torque diesel use different propeller for lower rpm...
higher pitch #
And a different drive ratio.
has a different out drive all together
You can just change the prop you don’t need to change the drive .. changing the drive is more gooder but doesn’t need to be done
CAD...cardboard aided design...I love it!
Bayliner + Duramax = very interesting content. Looking forward to this series.
Only bigger bayliners are decent. The smaller ones are trash.
FSG aka Aaron + Emily, very smart move from a safety and efficiency perspective! Changing diameter and blade pitch on the prop can adjust RPM differences re knots per hour, planning etc. You two are the A-team!
Of course we already know where that boat's former big block Chevy is going. Into that sweet '57 Chevy!!!
It is great that the bell housing bolts up perfectly. And the fly wheel is made exactly for this application. 😁 That simplified this swap a ton! 😊
If you’re going to remove the pistons, check out speed of air pistons online. Make great pistons for diesels. Engine will run quieter and more efficiently. Seriously, check them out, you won’t regret it.
Been running a diesel inboard on our boat for over 20 years, love the turbo whistle at full noise
Yeah and its not a bomb waiting for a spark!
I like this! Considering all the problems with gasoline on boats (storage, fire risk, etc), I don't understand why diesel isn't the standard in all marine applications.
Because they are more expensive
NOT a boat builder, but enjoy the stuff the Ship Happens couple are doing to their boats. They're rebuilding a wooden WWII Harbor Defense Motor Launch, and are replacing portions of stringers, frames and deck beams with scarf joints. They epoxy and bolt them into place. I'd think if it works for a 70-foot twin Cat ML, it'll work for your boat. I'd think some Coosa Board 'wedges between the back of the engine stringer and transom would be plenty strong when epoxied into place. You could drive a couple of long SS lag bolts from the back of the boat through the transom and stringer to hold things together even better, then 'glass over that.
They also have a twin Cat speed boat they're doing work on. No hull work, but good info there, too. Their two engines are in an engine compartment not much bigger than the engine compartment on your boat, and turbo heat is no big deal there.
And they do all woodwork using West System epoxy, which I mentioned in my other comment!
This is gonna be awesome. I never expected this. Can’t wait for this. Good luck and stay safe.
Consider closed cooling. Considering the state of everything (in pieces) this would be a great time to make that decision.
The bravo has different gear ratios for diesels. Gale banks use to make this. They can help on how.
The RPM will be the only problem. I would be looking or studying what type of gear add on to multiply the RPM. Good Luck!
Aaron would put a diesel in everything if you let him....🤣🤣 ( Aaron : ) " I got a new washing machine , now lets diesel swap it"😁
Now this is an idea I could get behind!
Hey, better is better! 🤓🤣 -Aaron
I am so happy seeing you work so in sync. Your demeanor is great.
totally makes sense to sway in a diesel. can't wait to see it run
Cool new project. Looking forward to your first boat outing with the Duramax. You 2 have so much fun.
You guys are on a roll with your projects lately, keep up the good work!
Enjoy your channel, I'm a retired aircraft maintenance guy so it's fun watching. Something about us mechanic types. Really enjoy Dave's Auto Center on YT; so your Duramax brought to mind a couple of videos from his channel concerning the crank shaft pins he says is weak. (he puts in a keyway, and a new video about 8 days ago on Speed pistons which is serious detail on piston design that I'd love to try someday. Thanks for the work you put into this channel, love it!!!
Hi
I think you are on the right path. More torque, better fuel efficiency and better longevity for what you want. Plus you can get about the same RPM as the big block because they originally used the 396 for the first generation of junk diesel engines. I'm glad that GM keeps the same Bell housing and still a similar side mount for easy swaps. But the most important thing is seeing Aaron back to working on a diesel again 😊. I can't wait to see you guys have fun again in the water.
Great content. I once presented a technical paper on reverse engineering. One thing we found helpful on complex fit-up situations was to take digital photo from above [the plan view] and then write the dimensions measured on the photo. Save many trips to re-measure and rework later.
Love watching you guys work on and explain what you’re doing to your equipment. Keep up the great work.
Because the duramax is a new style motor, wonder if the LS motor mount adapter would work
Dirty Max the world !!!LOL
Was literally typing question about keeping exhaust cool without water jacketed manifolds as you answered at the end! Youve already thought of everything! ha great project good luck and cant wait to follow more!
Need to add a Sharrow prop on that as well
I don't think the make brovo 3 props yet.
Better reinforce the transom to handle the torque of the duramax, especially if you tune it for off-road use!
This is mind blowing guys. If anybody can do it, it's you two. I can't wait to see this boat run. Watching it all come together is going to be exciting.
How are you
EVERYBODY throws shade on the LB7, and although most of that is because of the injectors, it's not a fav. The LB7 in our '02 Sierra has been rock-solid, however. 90% of the time, the truck has been towing our race car and has been great for that. If the 3208 in our Wanderlodge ever dies I'd strongly-consider a Duramax replacement for it.
Aaron hit up the local EAA chapter, there is usually one or two that have built a fiberglass airplane, they would be a great resource for any re engineering you need to do with the composites.
For the stringers and tying it all back into the Coosa, well worth watching Andy at Boatwork Today's series on the rebuilding the transom of his Bertram. Great series of videos and will answer all the questions you have. He'll be sure to help you too.
Good to hear that the exhaust turbo manifold cooling and water injection is being dealt with, that did worry me somewhat but I should have realised that you'd both have it all in hand. Cheers from the UK
I thoroughly agree watching Andy at Boatworks Today is a great idea.
This is an awesome conversion. There's already been a ton of helpful comments from knowledgeable marine folks. You're going to be getting much more to help you guys through this conversion. This just shows the great following you two get!
Sounds like a great swap. Exhaust manifolds could be the major issue. If somebody else has done one, all the better. Freeboard is important(distance from waterline to exhaust highest point after turbo). Look forward to the build.
Hi
Looking good! Thanks you two.
Need to use BRASS FREEZE PLUGS... PLEASE REPLACE.... THE STOCK ONES WILL RUST OUT... probably 2 years max. Then you will be real unhappy..
Oh I’m so happy to actually see someone do a Duramax swap in something instead of swapping a Cummins!!! Everyone is always doing a Cummins swap instead of the Duramax swaps and I say it’s because everyone likes the simplicity of what all you actually need to run a Cummins!!! I see square body trucks out there with Cummins in them along with plenty of other vehicles out there but very rarely do I ever get to see a Duramax swap in any thing!!! I’ve always told myself that if I ever go putting a diesel engine in one of my square body trucks or even any one of my 1967-1972 Chevy trucks it would definitely be a Duramax swap for sure and definitely Not a Cummins swap!!! My Duramax I have now is a 2007 classic body style and I have had it since 2010 and it also has definitely helped me recover on my last truck that I had and ended up literally paying for it twice in full and that definitely put me in the hole badly but after selling that truck and getting my Duramax I have definitely been recuperating the money that I have lost on my last truck because I have had to do absolutely nothing to my duramax at all other than regular maintenance things on it!!! I’m definitely really hoping that I can learn from you on how you end up doing everything for the swap and maybe that will help me get a better idea on what I might need or what I might have to look for in putting a Duramax in one of my square body trucks that I have definitely been wanting to do for quite some time now!!! Awesome video for sure and I am definitely looking forward to many more videos on this build for sure!!!!
I love how you guys share each step of your thought process. Hopefully increased torque won’t be an issue. Love your channel!!!
Your alignment issues will come when you go to put the outdrive back on. There is a tool(easily made) that will align the gimbel bearing with the hub. Otherwise the drive shaft will not go in no matter how much you struggle. I don't believe I still have the one we made--but if we made it, anything is possible
We bought one, luckily we are doing at a friends shop who is very experienced.
@@flyingsparksgarage glad you have access to experienced help. Also glad you are addressing the heat issue with the headers. Have fun and enjoy
Come on! Let's stay with one project! I'm not getting any younger & would like to see this finished,I mean how many projects can ...never mind, just hope you don't start another one!
Diesel is outside of my wheelhouse, so I'm learning here. Back to last week's video, yes, aluminum heads for safety. 😊
❤ that is such a smart idea switching to diesel. I am so excited for y’all. Can’t wait to see the final product.😊
And of course you can always change the prop😊
You guys are so awesome! Thanks so much for ALL the GREAT content!
This is awesome!! wishing you all the best, looking at doing the same thing, so anxiously waiting!
Hey guys ! This will be a great project !! I look forward to more episodes!! Thanks for sharing so much with us !
I love to watch you to take on a project and work out the detail as the project advances!
I would build a cradle between the stringers out of aluminum stock to help handle that torque. Most ski / wakeboard boats have this setup. Wood stringers are always an issue, but you may not have the ability to replace enough of the stringer system with a composite setup. Brace what is there.
Now this going to a great conversion look forward to this one! Hope you use raycor fuel fuel filter set up to motor with cat conversion fuel filter to engine srew on 25:22
Good luck, you two are awesome. Just to take on this project is so cool, and I'm sure many of your viewers are going to watch everything you post. Thanks for sharing, and stay safe.
I don't know much about boats, but that looks like a great swap , Aaron sure is a knowledgeable mechanic, great job you two hard working young people . PS Emily is such a great speaker making everything you do so easy to understand, and so beautiful . Lots of love from pa ❤❤❤
This is awesome. I love the Duramax and love the idea of a Duramax in a boat even more.
Your skills are amazing. All the best with your project.
Awesome project! Looking forward to following along
This is amazing. Love the boat videos. Wish I could get a boat and of course I love diesels. Can’t wait to see it run.😎
Love you guys. While you’re in there with engine out, replace or patch stringers. What ever yall decide to do, that structure will last another 20 years. Love from Waco Tx.
Hey Aaron, if you have some extra room in the height department I would like to suggest tying the the 2 stingers together. make 2 cross members to form a square and then do a triangle off of each stringer and out towards the sides of the boat. The diesels torque will hit a lot harder and lower than the gas engine you removed. I have seen different setups rip out an engine mount out of the stringer. The first time was a nice searay 42' that was converted from gas. Believe it or not I know everyone will have an opinion but use marine plywood and stainless steel for the square box (keep in mind where that oil pan extends. This is a great project and I will be sure to watch your progress.
You should replace the engine mounts in the boat that way you ken last longer then the boat. Plus you could give the engine bay a good scrub and repaint. Will look minted if all spotless.
Your doing a big upgrade to the boat 🚢, good luck guys. Thanks for sharing 🙏.
Great video, I'm happy to see you guys putting the LB7 in!!
My main concern is Aaron never gets a custom cut t-shirt. Poor guy. Stay strong brother!
We have a cabin cruiser like yours, it had 7.4 Mercruiser and about 7 years ago we re powered with a 4 cylinder Yanmar diesel, it wasn't cheap but we haven't had a single problem since, lots of power. We use our boat all the time and love it. No more dead on the water problems like we had many times with the 7.4 engine. Good fuel saving too.
I would stabilize the runners with aluminum square tubing or plates and you can hook it to the transom with bolts or a plate to the tramsom and run it as far forward as needed to satbilize the motor. just my thoughts tho.
At first, I thought that Duramax was for the Kid's truck.
I'm surprised you guys haven't had yourself a plasma cutter yet
Love the boat stuff keep it coming this is incredibly interesting
Very cool, I have been thinking of doing the same in my 1980 Searay. Interested to see what you do for exhaust and engine control.
Hi
Fun watch, nice job. Really nice engineering .. I really enjoy your work.
Hey guys I just bought my first Bayliner 2858 Ciera Command Bridge and my first thought was to diesel swap it. My quest for “how possible is this” lead me to your channel and I am very excited to follow along your journey.
This is going to be awesome. I plan on doing the exact same thing (x2) I have a 2000 Cruisers Yacht 3375 that needs a complete restoration. Twin 454s that I want to swap out with Duramax. Definitely going to watch this build.
Brilliant swap idea Aaron with the important parts bolting right up with just a flywheel change. I will say I respect your knowledge, small block ford guy here, I see a mess of valves n computer controlled things that would be a no go for me. Riveted on your builds and thanks for being real.
Following along for this interesting build! Great start
Nice motor. You might want to change the coupler. Depends on how old it is. You will need an alignment tool to align the outdrive.
You might need a new (or different) propeller to bring it out of the water up on plane. If I can find the chart, I'll send it to you. Looking forward to the Duramax rebuild or go through or whatever you call it.
great idea, you do need to remember to finish the transom. you should glass in the perimeter, that would tie in the transom to the rest of the boats hull.
Awesome video thanks for sharing 👍 😀 sending love ❤and prayers 🙏 from IRELAND 🇮🇪
I love it what a great idea I think just change the prop to get it to come to plain!
Emily and Aaron, you two amaze me with your mechanical ability. I enjoy watching your videos.
Sweet video! I hope it all works out for you! We will see you at the finish line. Love you guys!
Love this project! You guys are a great team! Always enjoy watching!
All of your projects are great and the boat is going to come out awesome
Great project 🎉
This is going to be a great series yall lots of good information
Interesting project. They started running diesels in the large jet boats in our area (Snake River). It seems like the larger boats had 3 engines and pumps. Aluminum boats so the fab work was easier in my mind!
You still need those water cooled manifolds. Or at least ones that fit the duramax. Need to keep the heat out of the engine bay. No airflow in there.
Wow. Really surprise. Well, good luck! 👍
Fantastic!
Me personally? Thinking CAT C7, mid 2000s vintage, pre DEF.
But great choice.
Again, lower RPM, More Torque, may need to look gears and prop.
Have Fun!
Wow that's such a puny starter.I'm used to see and start as it takes.Two boys and little girl lift up
There are a lot of "I don't knows." for this project. But that's the fun part. We've got our fingers crossed for you.
Learning more about boats everytime, greetings from Holland💪
I just love your channel the way you to work together and that you involve your family to help and teach them how to fix things don’t stop doing what you’re doing God bless you and your family stay safe out there 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🌹🌹🍺🍺
Make sure the motor will turn the out drive the correct direction. I’ve heard some boat motors run opposite of car or truck motors.