Hey, I know this is an older video but when you measure fork oil height you are supposed to do it with the fork tube pushed all the way in without the spring installed. If you place your hand over the top and form a seal, then push down you can easily bleed the damper rod in one or two strokes.
I have to point out that it's not just the circlips that hold your suspension together, it's the damper rod retaining bolts that stop the stanchions separating from the sliders. This job is a lot easier on my GS550 and T140. On both you can replace the seals with the stanchions still attached to the bike. After removing the calipers, wheel and mudguard, you just take out the damper rod bolt, let the oil drain, and slip the slider off the bottom of the stanchion. You can then remove the seal and its retainer, clean it out and replace the seal, then slide it back on and refit the bolt (there are no removable bushes, so seal can go on from the bottom). I use gaiters on both of mine to keep the dirt away from the seals. All you have to do then is remove the top cap and refill with the correct quantity of oil.
This is the best vid I have seen on this topic. I just have 2 suggestions. Firstly the 2 bushes that you slide over each other have a PTFE coating the bottom bush on the outside the top on the inside NEVER do this it can destroy that coating very easily. Secondly the top caps have a specific torque setting from the manufacturer, I would suggest that you inform your audience that this setting is extremely important and can be found in bikes service manual or researched online. Other than that absolutely brilliant👍.
Hi, u needed to explain if the tighter fork spring coils need to go at top or bottom. Also, whether to check oil level with the lower part fully extended, cheers, xx
Though I'd check back in and catch up after our chat, exactly the same way I would do it not the hardest job but will save you a fortune! But few little things that can bugger you up big time
The worst fork seals to have to change are 1970's Jawa & CZ because the seal goes on from the bottom as the tapered fork legs are left attached to the bike. The whole fork leg has to be dismantled. The bottom mounted damper cartridge has to be removed & cleaned. Then the spring via the bottom. Then the two phosphor bronze (or more expensive Alloy Bronze versions) slider seals have to be removed carefully and then finally the top oil seal carrier collar. The seal can be either removed and replaced in the carrier collar or just fit a brand new carrier collar with a new seal already in it (the non-masochist option). This takes hours!! The most over engineered fork designs I've ever encountered. Not one of my favourite jobs because rebuilding engines is easier & quicker.
Thanks for this! I'm thinking of getting a Yamaha tracer 700 (pre-2020 when they rightly upgraded the suspension to be adjustable), and every review says how awful and soft the front suspension is, to the point that it feels unsafe! So this video has given me the confidence to know that if I chose that bike, I don't have to pay someone to put in thicker fork oil and/or change the spring👍🏻👍🏻 This, combined with your suspension explanation video has taught me a lot! Can I just ask what the syringe was for? Apologies if I missed the explanation, but I don't think I can rewatch 30 minutes to check, until I actually come to do this :p
Awesome how to video, am assuming you topped up the extra 175ml off camera after putting in the 300ml? It has been a while since I've had a go at this, think it was around 1996 on a VFR400, it all went horribly wrong and around a year after selling the bike I found the anti-dive springs in the boot of my car... oops
Hi Spicy great video as always, have you heard of 'intelligent Cranium helmets'? they're on Kickstarter trying to make the next best helmet. would love to see your take on this.
Actually they need 2.5w if you use Motul. It should be 15cst at 40c. Yamaha OEM is 15.6 iirc. Also its 473cc per fork, not 470. Although almost he same.
How often does one have to do this on a modern motorcycle? When it leaks or is it good practice after some mileage? I have a 2017 Triumph Street Scrambler and it doesn't mention anything regarding seals in the manual. Of course it also mentions to replace the fork oil after 26.000 miles which is a bit shady...
Peroanly I would say when they leak, tho if I got to 20k miles I would feel they would need doing soon. The thing is tho I have a feeling my seals were stock so may have lasted 52k
I've got a MT-07. I used an impact & installed spring washer spacer ect. The damping rod just spins inside! Any ideas!? I need to jam it in place so I can remove it.
There are damper rod holding tools you can get, or (and this is not the best way but I have done it,) use a bit of soft wood to hold it in place for the first impact wack.
@@spicy110 I'd love to buy a tool but yamaha. Doesn't give you any ideas what this tool looks like, what dimentions it has. Fork seals are super easy to damage & need replaced quite often same with fork oil. YET THIS is the most frustrating thing I have ever done on my bike. I only wanted to change them as they're cracked. Wanted to sell it with new seals. Now I wanna jam a tool up yama...
@@Near2Future They are universal just google Motorcycle fork damper holding tool. there are two types the H shape one is not the one you want as far as i know it is the one that looks like a stick. This is a common issue with standard forks of all brands.
@@spicy110 Without using the tool, i managed to get one fork bolt off. I used a heat gun for 10 mins on lowest setting. Just moving it around the fork, trying to follow where that bolt would be. After ten mins, with all the parts inside. I compressed the fork as hard as I could on carpet. (Upside down) then used the impact to spin it lose. Came out with no issues! I'm gonna try this with my other one. Not sure if it will work but worth a TRY! :)
@@Near2Future If you leave the spring in, under load, it should give enough resistance to hold the damper rod in place while you slacken the bolt with an impact gun, then refit the spring and top cap before retightening the bolt (it's always worked for me).
I use a rear paddock stand with a front headstock stand. It really is the only option unless you have a centre point lift hole on your bike and a corresponding stand. Here is a timecoded link to where you can see what I use th-cam.com/video/ucVHa505jYs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=U6zHXv3RyyJCcoSe&t=656
Wandering where spicy110 gets his definition of "easy" from? For me (qualified in Servicing & Repair of Motor Vehicles Level 1 (pre ECU versions - when you could strip down an engine and rebuild easily...remember those feeler gauges 😉)) That fork seals maintenance does no way meet the main/common definition of "easy" Definition achieved without great effort; presenting few difficulties. free from worries or problems. Yes I get it - enthusiast with lots of time and the assistance/support of many with the availability of non-stand tools.... go for it but for me... sprockets and chain is easy - fork seals I'm out!
Check out the whole build series here! th-cam.com/play/PL-ow7a_42PpROKHUl86riGZktKpTO0x_H.html
Hey, I know this is an older video but when you measure fork oil height you are supposed to do it with the fork tube pushed all the way in without the spring installed. If you place your hand over the top and form a seal, then push down you can easily bleed the damper rod in one or two strokes.
Bro...well done...well explained!! Best fork rebuild vid tutorial on here..no joke. Thanks so much for this!
The pitting in the chrome can nick the new seal, causing a leak. I've used fine sandpaper to clean them up a bit.
Best fork seal change video I found
I have to point out that it's not just the circlips that hold your suspension together, it's the damper rod retaining bolts that stop the stanchions separating from the sliders.
This job is a lot easier on my GS550 and T140. On both you can replace the seals with the stanchions still attached to the bike. After removing the calipers, wheel and mudguard, you just take out the damper rod bolt, let the oil drain, and slip the slider off the bottom of the stanchion. You can then remove the seal and its retainer, clean it out and replace the seal, then slide it back on and refit the bolt (there are no removable bushes, so seal can go on from the bottom). I use gaiters on both of mine to keep the dirt away from the seals. All you have to do then is remove the top cap and refill with the correct quantity of oil.
This is the best vid I have seen on this topic. I just have 2 suggestions. Firstly the 2 bushes that you slide over each other have a PTFE coating the bottom bush on the outside the top on the inside NEVER do this it can destroy that coating very easily. Secondly the top caps have a specific torque setting from the manufacturer, I would suggest that you inform your audience that this setting is extremely important and can be found in bikes service manual or researched online. Other than that absolutely brilliant👍.
Nice mention of the tempreture and contraction of Aluminum cheers
Thanks mate best unbelievable detail on TH-cam thank you from across the pond.
Use a hair dryer to warm up the fork bushes before you pull the forks apart reduces the risk of damaging the fork bushes.
Quality video mate, money well saved thanks
always look forward to your videos, am always learning cheers mate :)
Hi, u needed to explain if the tighter fork spring coils need to go at top or bottom. Also, whether to check oil level with the lower part fully extended, cheers, xx
Bravo!
Though I'd check back in and catch up after our chat, exactly the same way I would do it not the hardest job but will save you a fortune! But few little things that can bugger you up big time
Very interesting video 👍
I believe there is zero difference between your one and naked xj6? Going to buy naked one tomorrow so see your vids are super cool for me 👌👌👌
The worst fork seals to have to change are 1970's Jawa & CZ because the seal goes on from the bottom as the tapered fork legs are left attached to the bike.
The whole fork leg has to be dismantled. The bottom mounted damper cartridge has to be removed & cleaned. Then the spring via the bottom. Then the two phosphor bronze (or more expensive Alloy Bronze versions) slider seals have to be removed carefully and then finally the top oil seal carrier collar. The seal can be either removed and replaced in the carrier collar or just fit a brand new carrier collar with a new seal already in it (the non-masochist option).
This takes hours!!
The most over engineered fork designs I've ever encountered.
Not one of my favourite jobs because rebuilding engines is easier & quicker.
Thanks for this!
I'm thinking of getting a Yamaha tracer 700 (pre-2020 when they rightly upgraded the suspension to be adjustable), and every review says how awful and soft the front suspension is, to the point that it feels unsafe! So this video has given me the confidence to know that if I chose that bike, I don't have to pay someone to put in thicker fork oil and/or change the spring👍🏻👍🏻
This, combined with your suspension explanation video has taught me a lot!
Can I just ask what the syringe was for? Apologies if I missed the explanation, but I don't think I can rewatch 30 minutes to check, until I actually come to do this :p
Excellent video 👌
This is an absolutely brilliant "how to" video. Very comprehensive. I'll definitely be looking to this when my forks need doing.🙂🙂🙂👍👍👍
Awesome how to video, am assuming you topped up the extra 175ml off camera after putting in the 300ml?
It has been a while since I've had a go at this, think it was around 1996 on a VFR400, it all went horribly wrong and around a year after selling the bike I found the anti-dive springs in the boot of my car... oops
Yes I just don't show multiple shots of the same thing where possible. I hoped the vocal info would make that clear 🙂
@@spicy110 Yup, it did and yup, that would be pretty pointless showing filling it twice! :-)
so ... what was the point of that syringe and plastic tube thingy ?
Hi Spicy great video as always, have you heard of 'intelligent Cranium helmets'? they're on Kickstarter trying to make the next best helmet. would love to see your take on this.
Can you send a link to the seals where can I order them?
Actually they need 2.5w if you use Motul. It should be 15cst at 40c. Yamaha OEM is 15.6 iirc. Also its 473cc per fork, not 470. Although almost he same.
i own a 1980 honda cb650 custom and need to do my forks only 3k on the bike thanks for the insite cheers nelson ont canada
Will it be similar for my 07 r1?
How often does one have to do this on a modern motorcycle? When it leaks or is it good practice after some mileage? I have a 2017 Triumph Street Scrambler and it doesn't mention anything regarding seals in the manual. Of course it also mentions to replace the fork oil after 26.000 miles which is a bit shady...
Peroanly I would say when they leak, tho if I got to 20k miles I would feel they would need doing soon. The thing is tho I have a feeling my seals were stock so may have lasted 52k
If you don't have a vice, use the axle. Obviously don't put it all the way through the hole.
I've got a MT-07. I used an impact & installed spring washer spacer ect. The damping rod just spins inside! Any ideas!? I need to jam it in place so I can remove it.
There are damper rod holding tools you can get, or (and this is not the best way but I have done it,) use a bit of soft wood to hold it in place for the first impact wack.
@@spicy110 I'd love to buy a tool but yamaha. Doesn't give you any ideas what this tool looks like, what dimentions it has.
Fork seals are super easy to damage & need replaced quite often same with fork oil. YET THIS is the most frustrating thing I have ever done on my bike.
I only wanted to change them as they're cracked. Wanted to sell it with new seals. Now I wanna jam a tool up yama...
@@Near2Future They are universal just google Motorcycle fork damper holding tool. there are two types the H shape one is not the one you want as far as i know it is the one that looks like a stick. This is a common issue with standard forks of all brands.
@@spicy110 Without using the tool, i managed to get one fork bolt off. I used a heat gun for 10 mins on lowest setting. Just moving it around the fork, trying to follow where that bolt would be. After ten mins, with all the parts inside. I compressed the fork as hard as I could on carpet. (Upside down) then used the impact to spin it lose. Came out with no issues!
I'm gonna try this with my other one. Not sure if it will work but worth a TRY! :)
@@Near2Future If you leave the spring in, under load, it should give enough resistance to hold the damper rod in place while you slacken the bolt with an impact gun, then refit the spring and top cap before retightening the bolt (it's always worked for me).
What stand are you using for a motorcycle?
I use a rear paddock stand with a front headstock stand. It really is the only option unless you have a centre point lift hole on your bike and a corresponding stand. Here is a timecoded link to where you can see what I use th-cam.com/video/ucVHa505jYs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=U6zHXv3RyyJCcoSe&t=656
What year and model is this?. I have Yamaha XJ 6 Diversion F. 2012 model I need change my seals is this same ?
It's a 2010 old shape, however if they are the same style of forks no matter the brand or model they work the same way.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Be great if wemoto did a spicy110 reward code
Hi, do you remember the dimensions of the seal?
I order by model not size so no sorry.
@@spicy110 do you have the old ones so you can measure them?
did you forget the extra 175 mls
No, this video is just edited for speed.
Can categorically claim, I will never ever attempt this
haha
Wandering where spicy110 gets his definition of "easy" from?
For me (qualified in Servicing & Repair of Motor Vehicles Level 1 (pre ECU versions - when you could strip down an engine and rebuild easily...remember those feeler gauges 😉))
That fork seals maintenance does no way meet the main/common definition of "easy"
Definition
achieved without great effort; presenting few difficulties.
free from worries or problems.
Yes I get it - enthusiast with lots of time and the assistance/support of many with the availability of non-stand tools.... go for it but for me... sprockets and chain is easy - fork seals I'm out!
@@philhunt9297 you're a pussy
88k and counting ☝️👍
QUESILLO!!!!!!!