Spent about an hour rotating and pushing in the piston...but the two boots are still about 3cm from lining up, so a long way to go (if I made any difference at all). I’m going to try to find a cheap clamping tool that’ll allow me to turn and clamp it in, otherwise I’m stumped. Put the caliper back on with one pad just so it’s not sitting jacked up 😂 until I can get the tools
hi - i'm pleased to see you have this issue too. sorry. did you have any issues with braking when on back roads around 90 - my car feels like im on a hovercraft - gliding - once im passed 70. Much improved with traction in sport but either way something is wrong. cars new (500miles) to me.
lol...it seems like you backed off .. . its not good look - but i think this way also - im doing my fluid as i already got air in mine - just started... FYI - my foot is in my mouth most of the time -
You can but copper grease can degrade the rubber over time hence why brake grease was invented ;) I doubt copper grease would do enough damage to the rubber you would ever notice but for the sake for a £8 lube I would just go with the proper stuff.
*This is a disaster... I just tried changing my rear brakes and rotors and one of the rotors seized up and it wouldn't budge no matter how hard I pounded on it with a hammer. I ended up putting new pads on and kept the old rotor in... And now I'm hearing this grinding noise as I drive. Not sure what I did wrong.* *I also noticed that rotor was able to spin freely even with the handbrake on when I had the car lifted up. But only on one side. The other side (where I didn't have any trouble with) was locked in place when the handbrake was lifted up. I have no idea if any of this is related to why my rear brakes are grinding now.*
Sounds like the handbrake is either too loose or too tight. The grinding will probably be the pad constantly against it. I highly wouldn't recommend driving it as you'll bind the disc to the pad and ruin both. If you arnt comfortable please take it to a garage 🙈
@@CarRambles *Thanks for the quick reply. For the time being, I'm on my own cause no garage is able to take me in on sudden notice and I need this car daily for work...* *Is it possible for the handbrake to be too loose or tight only for one side, but not both rotors?*
*Came here to figure out what this is about since I heard that is pretty much the only difference between changing the front and rear brakes... and that's the only part the video didn't show,... lol*
@@CarRambles *Thanks for your response. I'm just a bit confused between the difference of pushing back and winding back. Aren't you basically doing the same thing? I used clamps for my front calipers, and I have never changed my rear ones before. Just trying to make sure my install will go smoothly. Thanks!*
Done mine using this guide worked great cheers man, just had to kick the alloys off and hammer the old disc off too 👍
Really good detailed video mate, feel much more confident in replacing mine now 👍
I'm really glad I can help :)
Good video once again. Looking forward to if you ever do a coolant flush /bleed
Much love! Recently had a service in which I think they done this so might be a little while. Maybe at the end of spring?
No mention of lining up the lug on the brake pad to the slot in the piston! This us really important!
Did not hear mention regarding the piston has to be in the right place to line up with the nipples on the brake pad.
Slider pins need to be checked I would say yearly as one always seems to seize it’s the bottom one for some reason
Good video pal
Yeah they are a pain, next time I do it I'll be buying new ones, only about £20 I think
Spent about an hour rotating and pushing in the piston...but the two boots are still about 3cm from lining up, so a long way to go (if I made any difference at all). I’m going to try to find a cheap clamping tool that’ll allow me to turn and clamp it in, otherwise I’m stumped. Put the caliper back on with one pad just so it’s not sitting jacked up 😂 until I can get the tools
Oh dear aha. The right tool is definitely easier
hi - i'm pleased to see you have this issue too. sorry.
did you have any issues with braking when on back roads around 90 - my car feels like im on a hovercraft - gliding - once im passed 70. Much improved with traction in sport but either way something is wrong. cars new (500miles) to me.
Do you by any chance know the sizes of the pads or got a link to the product u used? Somehow I can't find the correct sizes, thanks :)
While your were at it, you should have bleed the brake fluid as well. But it's a simple process for you to do it some other time i guess hehe
lol...it seems like you backed off .. . its not good look - but i think this way also - im doing my fluid as i already got air in mine - just started...
FYI - my foot is in my mouth most of the time -
Can you yous copper grease on the slider pin
You can but copper grease can degrade the rubber over time hence why brake grease was invented ;)
I doubt copper grease would do enough damage to the rubber you would ever notice but for the sake for a £8 lube I would just go with the proper stuff.
@@CarRambles cheers mate silicon grease it then thanks
At 2:36 dude bites the pad like Wonder Dog.
Yummy
*This is a disaster... I just tried changing my rear brakes and rotors and one of the rotors seized up and it wouldn't budge no matter how hard I pounded on it with a hammer. I ended up putting new pads on and kept the old rotor in... And now I'm hearing this grinding noise as I drive. Not sure what I did wrong.*
*I also noticed that rotor was able to spin freely even with the handbrake on when I had the car lifted up. But only on one side. The other side (where I didn't have any trouble with) was locked in place when the handbrake was lifted up. I have no idea if any of this is related to why my rear brakes are grinding now.*
Sounds like the handbrake is either too loose or too tight. The grinding will probably be the pad constantly against it. I highly wouldn't recommend driving it as you'll bind the disc to the pad and ruin both.
If you arnt comfortable please take it to a garage 🙈
@@CarRambles *Thanks for the quick reply. For the time being, I'm on my own cause no garage is able to take me in on sudden notice and I need this car daily for work...*
*Is it possible for the handbrake to be too loose or tight only for one side, but not both rotors?*
Always change the pads and discs at the same time
Where did you get your callipers painted?
They came like it out the factory...
how did you find the brembo pads and discs ???
They are fine for the rears. I would recommend OEM front disks with yellow stuff pads for the fronts
Are you sure the calliper piston needs to be winded in? I thought on these it just pushes in.
Yes rear brakes need to be winded back while applying pressure. Front brakes are just push back so a clamp will do it
Car Rambles ok thanks 👍
*Came here to figure out what this is about since I heard that is pretty much the only difference between changing the front and rear brakes... and that's the only part the video didn't show,... lol*
Rear brakes wind back in. You can buy a wind back tool if needed. Basically put pressure on while winding it back
@@CarRambles *Thanks for your response. I'm just a bit confused between the difference of pushing back and winding back. Aren't you basically doing the same thing? I used clamps for my front calipers, and I have never changed my rear ones before. Just trying to make sure my install will go smoothly. Thanks!*
lovely views of your trolley jack!
Thanks mate. It what i strived for at the time when I didn't have a clue what I was doing