I just upgraded to a Beestinger Mircohex 10" front and 8" back bar on my old Hoyt Alphamax 32. I've only shot it for a few hours so far while getting it dialed in, but adding the back bar has made a big difference! I think I have it like I want it with 2oz out front and 3oz on the rear. I had been using a Posten 10" stabilizer for a long time. I started by trying the 10" Microhex with 3oz alone at first and it was impressive. Then I added the 8" back bar just to see if I liked it and definitely do. Great video!
I'm a new archery, in fact I haven't even been able to get the bow I bought set up do to the lockdown. : ( My bow came with stabilizer so I will now know what to look for if my shots are wrong when I get to try it out. So thank you for these great instructional videos.
Thanks for the information I’m still playing with short bars this may explain my stability problems, how about a video the your game taken last season 👍
Do you have anything in your catalogue of videos you have made that addresses things that might go wrong with your equipment when doing a 3D tournament or on a hunting trip? I am new to both and wonder what kinds of useful things to bring when I go out away from my home or my truck and I am out in the field?
What I noticed is running a rear on my 3D bow is great. My hunting bow there is no way I can run a back bar. I hunt from a tree stand 20'-25'. So to lean out and make a 45° shot is impossible without torquing the bow. The bow wants to sit level and I have to fight it to aim down. So if anyone else is looking for stabs. Think about that too. I ended up running a 8°down front 12' w/4oz.
Did you have the weight of the back bar down low? I bet if you had the weight up higher, closer to your hand, it would be easier to rotate it downward.
Solid information ..... I found out greater bar length = less weight by trial and error. I also prefer a longer bar / less weight over a shorter heavier one.
You can compare inertias by multiplying weight by length. A 12-inch bar with 4 ounces on it will have the same effect as an eight-inch bar with 6 ounces on it.
I just did this. I tossed on a stab came to full draw watched my pin sway and compared on 3 different stabs. 1 stab was much more steady than the others. My groups at 70 yards are much better. I can keep my arrows within an 8 inch group at 70 where before I was 14+inches.
Great information as usual! I have a tendency to lean to my quiver side even without my quiver on. So I was thinking of running a back bar to compensate. Is that the Mathews static sidebar you have? I feel like that would be best for me to try and offset the weight without buying another stabilizer and expensive vbar bracket.
sweet advices !!! have you tried the riddance Nock on stab ??? you are such an honest guy on gear , it ll be nice to have your opinion on it !! is it that different and worth the money !!
This video is hitting at the perfect time, just getting my VXR set up. VXR 28, 28" draw, 70#, hybrid hunter, mountain lite. Question for you, my local bow shop had reservations on my arrow setup mainly with the fletchings. Victory VAP 300 V1, Valkyrie Jagger 180gr and centerpin, AAE Pro Max vanes. I had them do half in a 4 fletch and half in a 3 fletch helical to test which would group better. The shop felt that there won't be enough material to stabilize the broadhead, is there any truth to that? Would you recommend a different fletching?
They are pretty small vanes, but theb4 fletch should be enough. They'll both shoot fine with a field point, but the teal test will be with a broadhead.
What is the reason for having a straight bar or a degree angled down quick disconnect bar. Also same with back bar i get that in and out will help balance the bow left or right but what does moving the back bar up or down do? I see adding more weight if you're always dipping low but don't understand the straigt vs down angles
I bought a hoyt ventum 30 with the stubby stabilizer. I'm having a hard time matching a stabilizer with it. I'm thinking a 8 inch ? What's your thoughts?
i just bought an 8 inch back bar, i have an 8 inch front bar. should i have gotten a 10 or 12 front and moved the 8 to the back? will having an 8 in front and 8 in back be an issue?
Completely off topic but when you look through your peep and center your sight housing , are you getting the entire housing in your peep ? I'm getting the housing but the right side is partially blocked by the riser ? Normal ? Cool ?
There's is a very slim chance the high $ stabilizer off the shelf is the exact one for everyone. Like bows, DL, drW weight etc are different why would the same stabilizer fit everyone. Even different lengths effects are different. Find a stabilizer for hunting or target that weights can be added or removed. It's only logic to assume every shooter needs to customize. This includes the backbar stabilizer too. Don't get fooled into wasting money on fixed weight ones.
Morning brotha I tried to find gas strings after watching your video on strings they said it’s a wait til end of July do you guys carry strings in stock ? For Mathews vertix?
Been seeing a bunch of people running a 8 or 10 degree quick disconnect on their front bar. I know stabilizers are a personal preference, but what would that do? Is it worth it on a hunting setup?
Lancaster Archery has them in stock i believe...we usually have them but are sold out at the moment. Most Mathews dealers should be able to get you one though
@@InsideOutPrecision Thank you I received it in the mail today put in on and really helped settle my pin. I was not wanting to add a back bar. I am small and want to keep my bow light and not bulky this was the fix THANK YOU THANK YOU
Using a bow with neutral balance as the Prime Black 5 or the PSE Evo NXT 35 sure helps. Most of the time humans have been hunting without stabilizers, and that went fine; don't see why a modern compound, which are ridiculously easy to use, should need stabs.
I see what you're saying, but we also used to hunt with spears, sinew bow strings, and wooden arrows. Equipment is always going to evolve, as we will. Its just a proven fact that stabilizers will make an already "easy" to use bow even more accurate, and you owe it to the animal to be as lethal and merciful as possible when taking it's life.
@@InsideOutPrecision If you're aiming to a 2 cm "ten" for reps in a paper at 20 yards I understand the relevance of stabs, but animals don't carry a target and aiming to the heart at random ranges is a guessing game at best. Stabs in hunting are a gimmick and arguing about "ethical kills" due using/not using stabs would turn all hunters using ILF recurves and traditional longbows into "unethical hunters", which makes no sense. Also, even if being less accurate would be an argument, having lower chances for a succesful release at large range forces the hunter to either miss or to close the gap, and in both cases the prey incresases the chances to notice the hunter and leave, which is a fair trade.
@@Buran01 aiming at the heart is a random guess for you?? Pick a spot, cover it with your pin and execute the shot brother. There is no guess work as to where I'm going to aim.
@@InsideOutPrecision Then why 95%+ of the vids in TH-cam portraying a bow hunt doesn't hit the heart, even closer than 20 yards? The heart has a relatively small volume in the torso of most animals, and their meat isn't transparent. I tell you that most of people just guess the coalescence of heart and lungs, and pray to have luck or assure a complete pass through. In that context, stabilizers won't make a difference. I like both traditional, ILF and compounds; those last ones usually have fixed draw length, peeps and sights, plus aid releases. If people can hunt with longbows just fine I don't see how a bowhunter which fails with a compound will fare better because ads weight and emcumbrabce to their rig.
@@Buran01 just because they didn't hit hit the heart doesn't mean they weren't aiming for it. But you're entitled to your opinion so if you don't see any benefit to one then I guess don't use one. I've tested it a ton though, and a stabilzer will drastically shrink my groups passed 30 yards.
I have question regarding adding weight in to the bow riser. Why is nobody adding weight in to the low end of the raiser this automatically will bring the center of gravity down and keep the bow vertical?
Some people do. I have 3oz installed on the rear stabilzer mount of my target set up. The only issue with it is that it can make it more difficult to bubble into extreme sidehill shots because the bottom of the bow wants to stay vertical
I run 3oz directly mounted on the dampener, lower left side of riser on an SR6, weight has been there for over a year. I run a 10” bee stinger out front. No issues, bow shoots excellent. BowTech...
@@InsideOutPrecision This is good to know. I have added the weight in to the riser and it did help. I agree with the extreme angle I guess you can always take it off in this type of situation.
If your bow is top or bottom heavy then this is more important. If your bow is neutrally balanced, especially after the shot (doesn't really roll forward or back) you may not need to add the extra weight and bulkiness of a stabilizer. You may want to add one that is designed more as a vibration dampener. Not every bow needs an added appendige. I have never had a stabilizer on any of my recurve bows and they shoot lights out. Not saying that a stabilizer won't help with your current setup. Just don't buy a stabilizer without doing a thorough needs assessment. If your worried about noise and vibration, there are a lot of products out there that can eliminate or alleviate that without adding such a burdensome weight to your bow without adding a third leg. It all depends on your bow, how it feels to you and how far you're going to shoot it. Yes, stabilizers de riguerre for target archers, they're not having to make split second decisions. 99.9 0/0 of the time a hunter has to make a split decision as to whether or not this is the shot they want or even is this the best shot that I can expect. They don't have the luxury of taking their time. Also, if we all wanted to be shooting our hunting bows like target shooters we would be shooting less poundage and less let off. That doesn't really work out in hunting. Targets don't jump the string. Live animals do. So, in my humble opinion, get the bow that works for you without having to add too much crap to really make it shootable and repeatable shot after shot.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
I just upgraded to a Beestinger Mircohex 10" front and 8" back bar on my old Hoyt Alphamax 32. I've only shot it for a few hours so far while getting it dialed in, but adding the back bar has made a big difference! I think I have it like I want it with 2oz out front and 3oz on the rear. I had been using a Posten 10" stabilizer for a long time. I started by trying the 10" Microhex with 3oz alone at first and it was impressive. Then I added the 8" back bar just to see if I liked it and definitely do. Great video!
Going to pick up my bow today and I haven’t picked stabilizer yet so glad you dropped this!
I'm a new archery, in fact I haven't even been able to get the bow I bought set up do to the lockdown. : ( My bow came with stabilizer so I will now know what to look for if my shots are wrong when I get to try it out. So thank you for these great instructional videos.
Thanks for the information I’m still playing with short bars this may explain my stability problems, how about a video the your game taken last season 👍
Think there might be something wrong with that rod in the back. Lol
Do you have anything in your catalogue of videos you have made that addresses things that might go wrong with your equipment when doing a 3D tournament or on a hunting trip? I am new to both and wonder what kinds of useful things to bring when I go out away from my home or my truck and I am out in the field?
What I noticed is running a rear on my 3D bow is great. My hunting bow there is no way I can run a back bar. I hunt from a tree stand 20'-25'. So to lean out and make a 45° shot is impossible without torquing the bow. The bow wants to sit level and I have to fight it to aim down. So if anyone else is looking for stabs. Think about that too. I ended up running a 8°down front 12' w/4oz.
Did you have the weight of the back bar down low? I bet if you had the weight up higher, closer to your hand, it would be easier to rotate it downward.
Another good video, thanks!
Solid information ..... I found out greater bar length = less weight by trial and error. I also prefer a longer bar / less weight over a shorter heavier one.
You can compare inertias by multiplying weight by length. A 12-inch bar with 4 ounces on it will have the same effect as an eight-inch bar with 6 ounces on it.
What offset and quick disconnected bracket do you recommend?
I just did this. I tossed on a stab came to full draw watched my pin sway and compared on 3 different stabs. 1 stab was much more steady than the others. My groups at 70 yards are much better. I can keep my arrows within an 8 inch group at 70 where before I was 14+inches.
great info.......that poor broken fishing rod though.....:)
Great information as usual! I have a tendency to lean to my quiver side even without my quiver on. So I was thinking of running a back bar to compensate. Is that the Mathews static sidebar you have? I feel like that would be best for me to try and offset the weight without buying another stabilizer and expensive vbar bracket.
Great advice, so where are you working now?
Still at the Bow Rack
Great stuff, man
sweet advices !!! have you tried the riddance Nock on stab ???
you are such an honest guy on gear , it ll be nice to have your opinion on it !!
is it that different and worth the money !!
Well from what I can tell its basically just a Doinker A-Bomb with the nock on logo. Definitely a solid stabilizer, but nothing new about it.
This video is hitting at the perfect time, just getting my VXR set up. VXR 28, 28" draw, 70#, hybrid hunter, mountain lite.
Question for you, my local bow shop had reservations on my arrow setup mainly with the fletchings. Victory VAP 300 V1, Valkyrie Jagger 180gr and centerpin, AAE Pro Max vanes. I had them do half in a 4 fletch and half in a 3 fletch helical to test which would group better. The shop felt that there won't be enough material to stabilize the broadhead, is there any truth to that? Would you recommend a different fletching?
They are pretty small vanes, but theb4 fletch should be enough. They'll both shoot fine with a field point, but the teal test will be with a broadhead.
What brand of stabilizer side mount do you use to move your front stabilizer to the right?
Whats your thoughts on the microhex counter slide for hunting
It’s fuckin awesome unless like me you want a down angle QD.
What stabilizer is it the one you have
What is the reason for having a straight bar or a degree angled down quick disconnect bar. Also same with back bar i get that in and out will help balance the bow left or right but what does moving the back bar up or down do? I see adding more weight if you're always dipping low but don't understand the straigt vs down angles
Thanks for the videos. ?, do you guys have gas bowstrings in stock or order? I'm wanting to order one and look at verifier options with new peep.
David Greer I use the 5/16 peep as with the verifier lens installed, inside diameter works out to close to 1/4”.
We do have lots of GAS strings in stock, but depends for which bow.
@@InsideOutPrecision I'm shooting the elite impulse 34. You have those in stock? If so I'll call and buy one.
@@davidgreer9567 we don't. We'd have to order them
I bought a hoyt ventum 30 with the stubby stabilizer. I'm having a hard time matching a stabilizer with it. I'm thinking a 8 inch ? What's your thoughts?
i just bought an 8 inch back bar, i have an 8 inch front bar. should i have gotten a 10 or 12 front and moved the 8 to the back? will having an 8 in front and 8 in back be an issue?
Watching slow mo videos the arrow is long gone before the bow even starts to tilt forward.
Completely off topic but when you look through your peep and center your sight housing , are you getting the entire housing in your peep ? I'm getting the housing but the right side is partially blocked by the riser ? Normal ? Cool ?
Your string has settled and is twisted, so you need to have the “peep” adjusted or string straightened.
What brand of stabilizer was that on your bow, l liked the thin carbon shaft
Spider makes it. Its the Tracker series
Have you picked out your new bow yet?
I just stuck with the Traverse this year
@@InsideOutPrecision Why's that?
Do you think the benefits of a stabilizer still apply to neutrally balanced bow such as a Prime Black or Logic?
Yes, absolutely.
There's is a very slim chance the high $ stabilizer off the shelf is the exact one for everyone. Like bows, DL, drW weight etc are different why would the same stabilizer fit everyone. Even different lengths effects are different. Find a stabilizer for hunting or target that weights can be added or removed. It's only logic to assume every shooter needs to customize. This includes the backbar stabilizer too. Don't get fooled into wasting money on fixed weight ones.
Morning brotha I tried to find gas strings after watching your video on strings they said it’s a wait til end of July do you guys carry strings in stock ? For Mathews vertix?
Yeah we have some I believe. Call the shop at 541-746-9711
Inside Out Precision cool thank you
Been seeing a bunch of people running a 8 or 10 degree quick disconnect on their front bar. I know stabilizers are a personal preference, but what would that do? Is it worth it on a hunting setup?
Funny. The quick dis. Truly for packing it back in a case. It does add an inch too.
I run a straight qd was just wondering what the angled ones would do.
Donny DeHart the angled disco lowers the center of gravity which allows some to run less weight.
Where can I get the side bar mount that you are using?
Lancaster Archery has them in stock i believe...we usually have them but are sold out at the moment. Most Mathews dealers should be able to get you one though
@@InsideOutPrecision Thank you I received it in the mail today put in on and really helped settle my pin. I was not wanting to add a back bar. I am small and want to keep my bow light and not bulky this was the fix THANK YOU THANK YOU
Using a bow with neutral balance as the Prime Black 5 or the PSE Evo NXT 35 sure helps. Most of the time humans have been hunting without stabilizers, and that went fine; don't see why a modern compound, which are ridiculously easy to use, should need stabs.
I see what you're saying, but we also used to hunt with spears, sinew bow strings, and wooden arrows. Equipment is always going to evolve, as we will. Its just a proven fact that stabilizers will make an already "easy" to use bow even more accurate, and you owe it to the animal to be as lethal and merciful as possible when taking it's life.
@@InsideOutPrecision If you're aiming to a 2 cm "ten" for reps in a paper at 20 yards I understand the relevance of stabs, but animals don't carry a target and aiming to the heart at random ranges is a guessing game at best. Stabs in hunting are a gimmick and arguing about "ethical kills" due using/not using stabs would turn all hunters using ILF recurves and traditional longbows into "unethical hunters", which makes no sense. Also, even if being less accurate would be an argument, having lower chances for a succesful release at large range forces the hunter to either miss or to close the gap, and in both cases the prey incresases the chances to notice the hunter and leave, which is a fair trade.
@@Buran01 aiming at the heart is a random guess for you?? Pick a spot, cover it with your pin and execute the shot brother. There is no guess work as to where I'm going to aim.
@@InsideOutPrecision Then why 95%+ of the vids in TH-cam portraying a bow hunt doesn't hit the heart, even closer than 20 yards? The heart has a relatively small volume in the torso of most animals, and their meat isn't transparent. I tell you that most of people just guess the coalescence of heart and lungs, and pray to have luck or assure a complete pass through. In that context, stabilizers won't make a difference. I like both traditional, ILF and compounds; those last ones usually have fixed draw length, peeps and sights, plus aid releases. If people can hunt with longbows just fine I don't see how a bowhunter which fails with a compound will fare better because ads weight and emcumbrabce to their rig.
@@Buran01 just because they didn't hit hit the heart doesn't mean they weren't aiming for it. But you're entitled to your opinion so if you don't see any benefit to one then I guess don't use one. I've tested it a ton though, and a stabilzer will drastically shrink my groups passed 30 yards.
I have question regarding adding weight in to the bow riser. Why is nobody adding weight in to the low end of the raiser this automatically will bring the center of gravity down and keep the bow vertical?
Some people do. I have 3oz installed on the rear stabilzer mount of my target set up. The only issue with it is that it can make it more difficult to bubble into extreme sidehill shots because the bottom of the bow wants to stay vertical
I run 3oz directly mounted on the dampener, lower left side of riser on an SR6, weight has been there for over a year. I run a 10” bee stinger out front. No issues, bow shoots excellent. BowTech...
@@InsideOutPrecision This is good to know. I have added the weight in to the riser and it did help. I agree with the extreme angle I guess you can always take it off in this type of situation.
If your bow is top or bottom heavy then this is more important. If your bow is neutrally balanced, especially after the shot (doesn't really roll forward or back) you may not need to add the extra weight and bulkiness of a stabilizer. You may want to add one that is designed more as a vibration dampener. Not every bow needs an added appendige. I have never had a stabilizer on any of my recurve bows and they shoot lights out. Not saying that a stabilizer won't help with your current setup. Just don't buy a stabilizer without doing a thorough needs assessment. If your worried about noise and vibration, there are a lot of products out there that can eliminate or alleviate that without adding such a burdensome weight to your bow without adding a third leg. It all depends on your bow, how it feels to you and how far you're going to shoot it. Yes, stabilizers de riguerre for target archers, they're not having to make split second decisions. 99.9 0/0 of the time a hunter has to make a split decision as to whether or not this is the shot they want or even is this the best shot that I can expect. They don't have the luxury of taking their time. Also, if we all wanted to be shooting our hunting bows like target shooters we would be shooting less poundage and less let off. That doesn't really work out in hunting. Targets don't jump the string. Live animals do. So, in my humble opinion, get the bow that works for you without having to add too much crap to really make it shootable and repeatable shot after shot.
Mr know it all again...