Prusa Pinda 2 - Probe Thermistor Setup - Marlin - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- We setup Marlin to use the thermistor inside the Prusa Pinda 2 probe to help your bed level be more consistent.
00:00 Intro
01:50 Pinda 2 Probe Overview, Install and testing
08:18 Marlin Firmware Setup
14:30 Calibration Process
26:04 Conclusion
Helpful Links:
Link to Pinda 2:
www.printedsolid.com/products...
Link to Marlin:
marlinfw.org/
Link to SKGO printer in this video:
seckit3dp.design/price/sk-go
Link to ABL video:
• Auto Bed Leveling - Ma...
Marlin firmware config from this video:
drive.google.com/file/d/1ZEf8...
Marlin probe setup page:
marlinfw.org/docs/features/pr...
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Thank you Chris, allways a pleasure
My pleasure!
really like the way u explain things
Thank you!
Man you have video for everything I need. much love.
Glad I could help!
Brilliant. Thanks for sharing this great info
Thanks for watching!
By the New Prusa mini+ it is now official temp.compensation is must have...what a great video many thanks my good man 👍🙏🏻
My pleasure!!
Great Vid. Lots of useful info.
Thanks George!
fantastic explain video!!! thank Chris...
Glad you liked it!
You look like an ideal linux server administrator who knows what he's talking about. Immediatelly subscribed! Thank you fot this video!
Awesome, thank you!
thx - you save my day! I was looking for pinda thermistor type for klipper config.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching
Thanks i have full working on skr e3 v2 with thermistor 😃
Nice work!
@Grzegorz Wozniak How did you wire it? I'm trying to do the same thing with klipper.
@@LoopyChef95 I use servo pin for thermistor you need use extra 4.7k resistor and if I good remember 22uf 25v small change on marlin board file and works
@@grzegorzwozniak837 Is the servo pin PC12 on PWR-DET and the rest of the wires are on Z-PROBE Blue=GND, Brown=5v, Black= PA1 or PC14?
Thanks for replying btw.
@@LoopyChef95 I got pc14 black white on pa1
Thanks for the video, it really is informative and will help a lot of people :). Recently I have been trying to setup pinda v2 on skr 1.4 turbo and couldn't get it to work on Z-MIN like you did and with similar configurations. However when I moved it to Z-MAX everything worked. Did you cut Z DIAG pin on the tmc2209 to get it to work on Z-MIN?
Thanks for watching! No, Z min shouldn't be impacted by the pin, but Z max will be, but only if you have sensorless homing on Z, which not many people do. Not sure why Z min wouldn't work.
Interesting test. The idea definitely has potential. Unfortunately useless without a probe repeatability test on a single spot at each temperature. And then you would need a repeatability test of the mesh at each temperature.
As long as you don't know these deviations, you can't make any conclusion until you have a better contrast in your results.
I did something similar on a bltouch clone and found out that I have a huge deviation on the mesh, but a very small deviation on a single spot.
Also consider the bending of the bed due to the thermal expansion. ;)
Yeah, I tried to convey that slightly in the last info view. Probably not the best way to implement something like this, but it does take a swag at trying to compensate.
I'm spending the extra few dollars to get the P2! Nice to see if you do a check on the bed temperature evenness on this printer with the a/c power.
Sure, we can check that out.
I would be very interested to know if it’s possible to use this on RRF with a Duet board. I’m rocking a heated enclosure and my inductive probe definitely reads differently with different ambient & bed temps. Great video Chris
Thank you! I am not sure, I know you can probably read it, but not sure how to apply it. I will take a look around.
Alright.... weekend project START !!! lol :)
LOL, good luck!
@@ChrisRiley went well over all, but my new bed didn't arrive yet to replace the glass :(. I did put a crealty stepper on my AM8 Y axis and am very happy tho!
Nice video !
Thanks for sharing Chris :)
But, is Pinda 2 better than BLTouch ?
Thanks! As far as accuracy testing my BLtouch 2 has a lower deviation. I just think the inductive sensors are easier to use.
Hello Chris! Fantastic video btw. I do have a question regarding the z-offsets/babysteps.
I still need to set the initial Z offsets before or after the test? I tried the same thing on my Biqu B1 and it is not that consistent.
You shouldn't need to set the offset before the babystepping, just hard set it after you have it dialed in. If it's not consistent it might be something else.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you Chris, I'll try again and I'll update you.
Hi man, great video!! are you thinking of putting a mosquito hotend on the seckit?
Thanks! Maybe, I think it would be a great mod. We will see what I can come up with.
WOW!!!!!!
👍🙂
Hi Chris, you probably already know but BIQU Bigtreetech have just released 3 new displays for the SKR range, 4.3", 5" and 7", I have already ordered the 7", if you are interested, I can post some pictures on twitter once I have it up and running
Nice, I didn't know they had a 7", that would be great!
👍
👍
Wish these could work with glass beds, much easier to deal with than BLtouchs if a failed print gets loose.
Yeah, that's always been the sticky part.
Hello Chris awesome video! The probe that I ordered was too short so I extended it. I am having an issue with the probe triggering. I wire the sensor up and plug it into the z endstop port. In marlin I set z min to z endstop port. the sensor lights up when near metal when I check with m119 command it always says z is triggered and if i invert it its always open. I have played around with switching to other pins but have no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
All I can think of is the wiring isn't correct. What board do you have? If it's an SKR make sure the diag pin isn't messing things up.
@@ChrisRiley it's an skr 1.4 turbo. I have bent the diag pin out of the way but still the same issue. Could it be an issue with extending the cable?
Edit: got it to work! It was and issue with a connecter not being pushed in correctly. Thanks again for the video!
@@andrewhunter8968 Glad you found it.
I have a v1 Pinda probe that I would like to install on my Ender 5 pro with the Creality v4.2.2 main board. As the z endstop only uses 2 pins is there an alternative connection I can use with the Pinda either all together by plugging in with the plug already attache d or bytaking the individual wire and using pins here,there and everywhere elseware on the board?
I don't know if there any available 5v pins on that board, but if there are you can grab power from there. If not you could use a converter to voltage regulator and reduce it down to 5v so you can get power from anywhere. You have to be careful not to feed more than 5v into the signal pin.
Well Chris your reply has prompted me to buy a SKR 1.4 Turbo board which arrived today c/w a BTT touch screen as well so tomorrow will be upgrade time.
Is there an advantage to using a pinda as opposed to any other inductive probe while not considering the built in thermistor? This feature/option is pretty cool though.
No, it's pretty much the same probe, just the thermistor add, just an added feature.
Hi Chris, I got myself the pinda v2 clone from trianglelabs and connected it to my skr e3 v2 board. Everything works however in octoprint terminal I see unrealistic probe temps. P: 230.... if I move the probe to the heated bed it rises to like 250. Bed and extrudertemps show up correct in °C. Do you know if the marlin probe temp compensation would work with any probe temps? Like, is only the change in temp relevant?
Damn, not working. Terminal puts out "waiting for cooling". I guess because probe temp reads 240 but it should be 30.
I think I can get it working. config_adv.h has these lines:
// Probe temperature calibration generates a table of values starting at PTC_SAMPLE_START
// (e.g. 30), in steps of PTC_SAMPLE_RES (e.g. 5) with PTC_SAMPLE_COUNT (e.g. 10) samples.
//#define PTC_SAMPLE_START 30.0f
//#define PTC_SAMPLE_RES 5.0f
//#define PTC_SAMPLE_COUNT 10U
I'm not sure, I think I need to change ptc sample start value.. But to what value? The shown temp when the probe is in homing position right over the 60° heated bed or is do I need the "normal" probe temp when bed is off and probe is in the cooldown position?
Edit: Nope, not working. Always after I enter G76 printer homes and I get the message: Waiting for cooling... That's it.. Nothing else happens, no bed heating nothing.
I think it does have to be with in a range for Marlin to use it. You would need to build a temp table for that Probe. Trianglelabs might have one they can share with you.
@@ChrisRiley I think I now know why I get weird readings. The skr e3 mini v2.0 just has 2 thermistor ports th0 and thb. These have a different electrical circuit (resistor and capacitor added) If I want the thermistor from the probe to work via another pin like pa1 I'd need to add a resistor and capacitor... and get 3.3v, for example from the swd port.
Seems this was not necessary on your skr 1.4 board..
Hello, I have a Two Trees Sapphire Pro and I managed to install latest Marlin V2.0.7. After a night working on it I finally have TMC working in UART mode, Neopixel enabled and everything works like a charm on my MKS Robin Nano V1.2 BUUUUUUT.....
I have only one problem: I'm using a PINDA V2 probe and I enabled temp compensation, the problem I have is that I can't make the board to read the temp value of the probe, the wiring is 100% correct because when I connect the probe instead of bed temp I can see the values. The problem is that I have the same identical readings on BED and TH1 (where the pinda is connected) like if are the same pin!!!!
I did like this:
//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#define TEMP_0_PIN PC1 // TH1
#define TEMP_1_PIN PC2 // TH2
#define TEMP_BED_PIN PC0 // TB1
#if HOTENDS == 1
#if TEMP_SENSOR_PROBE
#define TEMP_PROBE_PIN TEMP_1_PIN
#elif TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER
#define TEMP_CHAMBER_PIN TEMP_1_PIN
#endif
#endif
What's the problem?
It looks like you have it right, it should work. Those are analog pins, maybe there is some cross talk. What happens if you hook up a thermistor to all 3?
Is it possible to do magnet compensation for prusa bed?
Not that I know of at this time.
Hi Chris, the jst plugs are they the 2.54 pitch ones ?
Yes, on the SKR boards they are 2.54's.
@@ChrisRiley Great Thanks
Hi Chris!
Want to build my own printer (a Hevo) and think over to use a Prusa Pinda (my first Autolevel sensor)
Since i would prefer to use a Duet 2 Wifi board, i dont know how i could connect the Pinda 2 to the Duet 2 Wifi Board!
Did you know this?
Sorry hope my english is correct, because i am not very good at it =)
Kind Regards from Austria
I'm not exactly sure how the config would work, but with RRF 3 you can assign the pins you need. There will be multiple analog pins to use. If you can get a Super Pinda that would probably be even easier.
Hi Chris, just a simple question? How do you able to print ABS without an enclosure? Haven't you got problems such as warping or cracking?
As log in the bed is hot and even and the part isn't very tall I can usually print it just fine.
When I run G76 the printer inits the process without issues, but them the probe never get down so it get heated :/
Waiting for cooling.
Target Bed:60 Probe:30
Waiting for bed and probe temperature.
Waiting for probe heating.
Check your park position and make sure it's close enough to the bed.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris. Thanks for the reply.
In the mean time I've just found it was a bug on my Marlin version. Found the PR somewhere, but can't really find it now ahah
It was a problem testing the probe heating, not cooling. The probe simply didn't lower near to the bed. Instead, it was just staying in the same Z defined for parking.
The fix got release on 2.0.6 (I think), but that one messed with my RR FullGraphics. At the end, bugfix from 21/12 solved both issues!
Probing like a champ now. But the process takes soooo long!
Again, thank you for the reply and specially for you video contribution. Pretty useful, congrats!
Take care and keep going!
@chris can you post the marlin build you have?
I looked around, it is very old and I no longer have it.
Thanks very much for that explanation! 👍🏻
I have some issues when printing ASA or PC due to the temp drift the Pinda 2 has.
I've found the advanced calibration in the Prusa help manuals: help.prusa3d.com/en/article/manual-temperature-calibration_2232 But from my perspective this is really time consuming while your solution with G76 seems much more elegant.
Do you know if the stock Prusa firmware (latest 3.9.0) has the G76 feature or not and have you tried it with the Original Prusa MK3s and 3.9.0 stock firmware?
You bet, that's a great question. I would have to consult with my Prusa guys not sure how they are implementing that today.
@@ChrisRiley Would be cool if you can clarify that. There are more than enough MK3s in the wild who would definitively profit from it! 😃
I was slightly shocked to see that the offset table in the stock MK3s is empty while they say that the Pinda 2 compensates for the temperatures... 😳🤨
Any updates regarding G76 on stock Prusa MK3s printers? 🤔
is tehere any klipper configuration example for pinda v2? can you share, please.
I don't know of one, but I am sure some one has used it on a analog port. I just don't know where to find it.
Any info on klipper?
Only probe install info for Klipper I have is for bltouch. This will get you about half way. th-cam.com/video/iEo7tJ0wbPU/w-d-xo.html
I am trying to implement the M600 command on my Ender 3 pro with marlin 1.1.6 installed and which already has a boot loader. I followed your video showing how to do this by going into the Advance_pause_feature in configuration_adv.h and then the configuration file. When I tried to compile it in arduino ide I received this error message..."Error compiling for board sanguino 1284P boards". I know nothing about Arduino so I am stumped and am not quite sure what to do now. My friend helped me the first time when we flashed the boot loader but isn't available because of the Covid 19 "Plandemic". Do you have any suggestions what I should do now? They would be gratefully accepted. Sorry if I'm off topic.
What version of Marlin are you trying to compile? What is the error?
@@ChrisRiley marlin 1.1.6 as I wrote in my question and M600 "Error compiling for board sanguino 1284P boards"
@@TheRoon4660 Well I was hoping there was more than that. I guess I was thinking you were upgrading to a newer version. What IDE are you using. I would consider downgrading to version 1.8.5.
@@ChrisRiley If I am using version 1.1.6 why would I be "downgrading# to go to 1.8.5? arduino ide is what I use as I stated initially but you didn't seem to read.
Can I kapton tape a standard 100k ohm 3950 thermistor to a normal inductive probe or cram it under the plastic cover and get the same results as a Pinda 2 probe?
Do it! I would love to see how it turns out. Can't hurt to try.
@@ChrisRiley lol, okay, thanks! XD
Would this sensor work on:
- glass bed thick 4 mm ?
- does work with Klipper ?
Won't work on glass, not sure on klipper.
does the pinda probe work on glass
No it does not.
Maybe I need a probe for my BLtouch made of Invar..
I don't think I am cool enough to get that reference. LOL
@@ChrisRiley Invar is a metal alloy that has a very low coefficient of thermal expansion. I have an old pendulum clock, where the pendulum shaft is actually made of Invar so that the clock continues to keep good time even when the temperature changes. So I was thinking that the if the probe in my BLtouch was made of Invar, it would be less affected by thermal changes. Of course, you have the whole rest of the mechanical structure to puzzle over and how its dimensions change... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Invar for more on my geeky reference.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. I'm brand new to 3D printing, and I find your videos an enormous help as I try to figure all this stuff out. You have a wonderful presentation and pacing - information dense, yet still logical and easy to follow. I really appreciate the style choices that you've made for your videos, and I hope you continue to do these!
@@lmamakos Ya see, this is why I love doing this stuff on TH-cam, I learn something new everyday. Thanks for the info and the kind words, it is always great to hear others find my content useful .
After watching the whole video, the first thing that comes in my mind: "All that for a drop of blood"
Yep, you got it. Lol
I saw your result, and I think pinda 2 feature is not as accurate as probe without thermistor, for heated bed you just need to do G29 before bed start to heat, the expansion of the bed is really small compare to what I saw in your video.
I'm not a native English speaker so I might misunderstand your video, in that case please accept my apology, but you can see probe offset of 16 points in the end of the video, the 4 points in the first row change 0.2mm from room temp to 100c, but 4 points in the fourth rows change only 0.01mm, maybe that mean your bed is not equally heated, and the algorithm use only 1 bed temp for the math althout temperature varies across the bed, some point is hot, some is cold.
Good observations. That very well could be. After I did this video I thought maybe I should have done some probe comparisons first. Also, this is an AC powered bed, so I am not sure how spotty the heating might be. I will check that.