So, I had this problem with my mini but it was clogging. I checked everything, changed the nozzle and adjusted the idler tension. The last thing was the PTFE tube. So, I printed, in PLA very slowly, a jig that would act as a spacer between the heat block and the fan shroud. That should be 4.8 mm. Mine was loose. Then I pulled the PTFE tube. It is supposed to be 43.5mm +/- 0.1mm. Mine, installed by Prusa, was 42.5mm. Luckily, the included spare was 43.5mm exactly. So I put that in and adjusted the gap to 4.8 mm and voila, no more problems. If you have clicking, check the length of the PTFE tube first.
Mine came 43.0mm from the factory. I had endless problems printing unless I slowed the machine way down or increased the temps enough to cause other issues. Fortunately, the spare that the printer came with was the correct length.
Dude - I can't thank you enough for sharing this detail with the short PTFE tube!!! You're a life saver - I was pulling my hair out of anger, how to solve this super annoying issue. Exactly like you said - my factory PTFE tube was literally your size - 42.5mm. The spare one was 43.5mm. So I only swapped them - nothing else, no adjustments etc. Now everything works perfect! Thank youuuuu :) By the way I'll share another tip that has nothing to do with this - I'm just in a sharing mood :) It about how to get perfect adhesion. Guys I print small text-icon objects and adhesion is super important in my case. Best alternative that I found after testing and experimenting for over a year and a half is either using the regular nail polish remover (has Acetone) or Clorox Remover (with bleach in it). Just buy them from your local Dollarama (we have this in Canada) or Dollar Tree. Then buy one roll of paper tower and rub the remover with it. GUYS - I can do close to 10 prints without any wiping at all :) not like what Prusa said - use alcohol every time. The key here is to use clean piece of paper tower every time you wipe. At one point I was using strong dish soap and would clean it with a sponge - also had great results, but then every 2-3 weeks or so I had to change the sponge, as it was getting greasy and it was actually making it worse than good. My second method though works like a charm! Anyways my 2 cents story :)
Thank you for this video it has been very helpful for troubleshooting my issues. I upgraded from Ender 3 and so far I have had only issues with this printer. Not what I expected....
This is my first experience with a Bowden style extruder and I have only had my Prusa Mini for a couple of days. I had a really difficult time, and poor results with first layer calibrations. I was experiencing the clicking noises which resulted in reduced filament flow and ultimately nozzle clogs. For me, undoing the PTFE compression nearest to the hot-end, and selecting the Filament Unload menu function was the only way to fix. You have to be ready with a pair of cutters or scissors and put a small amount of "pull" on the Teflon tubing. When the unload filament cycle starts, it will attempt to back out the filament. You only have a second or two to cut the filament(don't cut too close, as you will need some filament to grab a hold of to pull out from the hot-end) before the process forces the filament back into the hot-end(along with the Teflon tubing). Once cut, run the Filament Unload again and the filament should unload completely. Also, you'll notice that about 10" from the end, the filament has been chewed up a little where the stepper feed motor was attempting to feed in the filament. Be sure to cut off any rough spots before attempting to reload, and reattach the compression fitting & PTFE tubing. WHAT SOLVED THE CLICKING AND NOZZLE CLOGGING PROBLEMS FOR ME IS CHANGING TO A DIFFERENT BRAND OF FILAMENT. It could be that Bowen extruders are much more "fussy" about filament tolerances. I tried a couple of different brands of filament that work OK on other 3D printers that I use, but caused problems for me on the Mini. The other 3D printers that were "OK" with this filament all had direct extruders.
For future readers/viewers: There's another factor that can affect the extruder - cog distance between motor and the extruder pulley. The motor axis can be slightly shifted closer or further from the pulley axis. Too close and it will seize, to far apart and you may get a klicking noise when the filament is retracted. Unfortunately, you will need to disassemble the extruder in order to get to the screws that hold the motor. (See the manual, it shows the disassembly step by step.) Mine (a kit assembly) seem to have its motor shifted after a very intense period of printing very detailed prints and seized up. When unloading filament you get a loud screeching noise at the end when the motor "stalls".
I just had your videos suggested by Almighty Algorithm. Good videos, and you have very pleasant voice :-) Keep pushing the filament down as it is cooling down until it stops going out of nozzle, it has better chance to completely fill the void I mean hotend and stick onto dirt. Cool it down completely, after it's cool, start heating it again. Around 80 or 90 or maybe 110 degrees depending on filament you can tug on it, and at one point you will be able to yank it out. It's good to use cleaning filament or nylon or similar elastic material - white or transparent to better see the dirt - because you can wrap it around your finger or hand, which makes pulling it easier. You may need to repeat few times until you see no dirt in tip that formed.
Great video. I suggest you pickup some micro side cutters, so much easier to handle. My first mini (December) had zero problems. My second mini (May) came with a tube that was too short and I had constant clicking. Really shocked at the QC.
Hello Patrick, thank you so much for this video! My mini started underextruding after first couple of prints and I heard some clicks (mainly when bridging). This video was a tremendous help for me as I'm an absolute beginner and I was kinda scared from just what I found on the prusa troubleshooting website (really "unscrew the nozzle and clean it with needle" is not enough instruction for me :) ). This made it look simple and I was able to succesfully do a cold pull (I let it drop to 100° C with PLA) and it resolved my issues. So again, thank you very much!
It looks that your filament is stretched during the cold pull because the hot end was not cold enough. Better keep pressure onto the filament (pushing) until it has fully solidified. Heat up again starting at the glass temp while firmly pulling onto the filament. The blob will release at the lowest possible temp without stretching the filament. But I think you can have another problem because the extruder is not clicking constantly. Did you check the filament diameter/roundness as it comes from the reel? These filament parameters tend to vary cyclic. It can easily cause slipping/clicking if not within tolerance.
@@iqless Another thing that I have found helpful is to do the cold pull with nylon filament in addition to what An Wira suggested. The nylon has a higher glass temp and will not deform as it "grabs" onto any of the PLA and debris that is left over inside the nozzle and pull it out. I have found this to work very well. Also, using a high contrast color for your pull material allows you to see what was is the nozzle. Cheers.
it's amazing how many videos there are now of this same problem on the mini with extruder clicking.. I was always under the impression that Prusa were the top dogs when it came to 3D printing. Maybe I need to shop elsewhere? Surprised they haven't noticed the issue and fixed it before shipping anymore!
from yesterday my mini is driving me crazy... It is not clogged, I'm 100 % sure of it, a bit dirty for sure but now it is cleaned... I can purge without any clicking and it purges nice and clean... I did the atomic pull, cleaned with a needle, changed the heater ptfe tube, cleaned the extruder gear, played with the extruder gear tension BUT it still starts to click at some point during printing... I am so close to call prusa people again and tell them to come get this printer because I don't want to see it anymore. I am so disappointed because from february till yesterday it printed FLAWLESSY, the best printer I've ever had and that all my 3d printing friends are envy about because of the excellent print quality.... but now it is clicking and underextruding and still it is not clogged, it purges like usual with no clicking, it loads without clicking, it unload without clicking I really don't understand what is going on!
I think its a good value and a good printer for 2020. If you are looking for zero maintenance and zero issues I do not think that exist in 2020. But if I had $500 would I buy the Prusa mini? Yep If I had $1,000 to spend would I get the mini or the i3 MK3? Today I would go for the i3 MK3 for the size and more reliable code. But I hope in 6 months they will have fixed the Prusa mini so I can say I would only choose the i3 MK3 for a bigger size and the multicolor upgrade feature.... but time will tell
iqless ok thank you have you tried any other printers in this price range that you would recommend? I am looking for a secondary printer in this price range (coming from an Anet a8) love the a8 for the price nothing more super high maintenance I just want something reliable and affordable now
That is the bad thing about me I have only had a Prusa i3 MK3 and now the Prusa Mini. I would not classify the Prusa Mini as super high maintenance. So far I would say its roughly as reliable as the i3 MK3. I ran 4+ Kg of material through it before I did this fix. I am 80% sure I am going to be recommending this. I just want to beat on it for another 2 months and also see at least one major software upgrade to address a few issues they currently have.
iqless from what I’ve heard prusa always fixes issues so I’m confident they’ll fix these 4kg of filament is a lot lol way more than I think I plan to print for a while so I’m definitely going to be considering a mini now so far every review I’ve seen is positive (mostly)
I liked your intro. Indeed, even with a Prusa you have to be prepared to solve an issue every now and then so knowing how the printer works is essential for happy printing days. That said, the title of this video should have been: what not to do and how not to do it when your clueless why your extruder clicks.
Constructive criticism is always welcome here Destructive criticism is not. If you have an alternative method for fixing this problem please post it here or a link to it.
@@iqless My apologies, I did not intend to be disrespectful or 'destructive' but the point is you really show that you do not know what you are doing. If you make a video under the header ‘What to do...’ I feel you should know what to do and you clearly don't. With virtually every step you take you first do it wrong, even say you never done it before, to then have an enlightened moment and in hindsight come up with a better way of doing it. Altogether you never identify the problem, let be solve it, and with every step you give the wrong advise. Now take my feedback with a smile.. You are making youtube video’s (Good camera work by the way) and you are having fun doing it. I really like the mrs in the background whispering advice. Keep that in your formula.. It is really nice (I am not trying to be facetious here) But I made an effort to be constructive by telling you exactly what I mean when I say you dont know what you are doing. Don't let this discourage you from making videos. My suggestion is just to do more research and better prep to come up with solid and useful advice. Because these topics are things people encounter and seek help on. Ok.. hold on... ;-) 2:15 ‘You see the filament is not coming out’ .. while during the whole video filament flows freely. 2:22 ‘Filament can be to narrow’ .. yet nowhere in the video do you measure the filament diameter 2:28 ‘The gears grind and shred it a little bit’ .. yet you never check the filament for possible damage caused by the gears 2:50 ‘Pebbles and debris in the nozzle’ .. highly unlikely, however what can happen is particles from previous filament remains in the nozzle. Especially higher temp filament like ABS or Nylon that doesn't go fluid enough with lower temps like PLA and clogs the nozzle. 4.04 ‘Mine is broken and I like to fix it’.. Doesn’t seem broken to me.. We only hear some clicks, that for sure is not a good sign but it is not clear if it is actually causing print problems. Are there failed prints? If so, what failed? Is there under extrusion, skipping layers? 4:11 ‘..and get this fixed’ .. Unfortunately the video ends without having identified the problem or offer a solution. 4:51 ‘’ .. purge filament.. Hopefully that solves your problem, it doesn’t solve mine’.. ‘Purging filament’ is a troubleshooting step not a solution. If filament flows then it is not a clogged nozzle so you can move on to the next possible cause. You have flowing filament but you keep on coming back to trying to solve a clogged nozzle. 6:27 ‘nothing is coming out’ .. yet filament is flowing constantly.. 6:38 ‘on my Prusa i3 it got stuck’ this is a very different system. An Mk2/3 has a bondtech direct drive pulling filament (or at least pushing only a marginal distance to the heatbreak) whereas the mini has a bowden setup pushing filament. 6:58 ‘if that works, great, in my case it is not’ .. in your case it is working, filament is flowing.. 7:03 ‘you can probably attempt to adjust it.’,’I didnt have to do this on this guy’,’So far I didnt have to adjust mine, I think it is ok’... so you keep claiming you have filament flow issues (clogged nozzle) which you clearly do not have as you constantly show flowing filament, yet you immediately discard a likely probable cause being an incorrect extruder gear pressure setting. Now this would have been an relevant and educational part to dive into. Check filament for damage, how to set this properly, does it slip when you pull, etc. But, no.. lets go right back to a suspected clogged nozzle .. bring out the needles… sigh.. you do NOT have a clogged nozzle. 8:49 ‘there is probably something in there blocking it’ .. no .. nothing is blocking it .. it is flowing .. 9:03 .. back to dust and ‘pebbles’ … there is no dust or pebbles blocking a nozzle.. If anything it is reminiscence of old filament 9:55 ‘what could happen is that your winding gets knotted’ .. indeed that could happen and it is, like you say, not the case here.. However the way you let the filament go and let it spring back (11:03.) this will likely happen to you often. This is not the way to treat your filament and will cause catastrophic print fails. Bad example to your viewers. 10:14 ‘I am going to be lazy here and turn it off and back on because I want it to cool off’ … Really? No! .. this is what you advise your viewers to do? This can cause damage to your hotend and will cause clogs in the end. 11:10 ‘Oh, there is a cool down button. I never thought about that’.... sigh.. you are really doing this all for the first time aren't you.. 11:20 ‘if you turn it off and walk away there could be some damage’’ .. what an epiphany .. if you knew this why turn it off the first time? 12:05 ‘And see what we can see because I have never seen this…’ well do you or dont you have expertise to share? You are so clearly doing this all for the first time. .. If you post a video under the header ‘what to do ..’ dont you think it is only fair if you actually know what to do? 12:22 ‘..let me take this one off too… well probably not’ .. pff one saved at least before you did it wrong. 12:37 ‘at this point I am not too worried about that’ .. you shouldnt be worried about the hotend at all as everything you have done so far was prove the problem is not the hotend 12:49 ‘where is my tools..’ ..brings out a set of plyers that would make an old school plumber shy… this is fine mechanics .. that requires fine tools.. 13:30 Your cold or atomic pull is painful to watch as you really have no idea what you are doing here. Please watch (and learn from): ‘3D Printing 101: How To Fix a Clogged Nozzle Using a Cold Pull!’ from 3D Printing Nerd. 13:51 Good thing is that you have learned during this video that there is a ‘cool down’ function in the menu.. good advise at last. 13:54 ‘this is where my expertise it not quit expertisy’ ...no.. that was already at 2:15 14:24 ‘I have done a 100c ..’ no, you have done something before but never a cold pull… this obviously is the first time you are trying to do it and you are doing it wrong!. 14:30 ‘pull it up by force’ .. No! You cant just say that with a cantilever printer.. you likely will damage the joint. A cold pull with any printer is a coordinated careful procedure (these are fine mechanics remember) but with a cantilever printer you have to be extra careful. You have to make sure the hotend is as close to the stand as possible and you have to make sure you press against the hotend while you pull. Ok, at 15:02 you almost show the right way to hold the hotend while you pull but you shouldn't pull with the hotend at the end of the arm. And luckily you figured that out at 16:14 15:11 obviously an unsuccessful ‘cold’ pull … the hotend was too warm still and you are using PLA when you should use nylon. 15:40.. Again just letting go of the filament.. That is not how to treat your filament if you care about a successful print. What my problem with your video is, is that you obviously do not know what you are doing and that you are figuring stuff out while you are doing it. Nothing wrong with that but dont claim that you know what to do.. because you don’t. Call your video ‘lets figure this out together as we go’ because by claiming you know what you are doing you confuse people to the point that they are wrongfully doubting the machine: Robby Sodhi ‘With all these issues is it still worth purchasing?’ Now my suggestions on the problem; - You could be using a PLA setting with ABS or NYLON. The temp now is too low and the filament not viscous enough so the nozzle cant extrude the filament quickly enough .. the extruder is pushing faster than the hotend can process,causing skipping gears (clicks). - Your slicer settings (flow rates etc.) are of causing a too high calculated flow rate which causes as well the extruder to push to faster than the hotend can process. - do check the extruder gears pressure. Please do let us know if you have found the cause finally (...and better not use that metal spatula you have a the left side of the printer on a Prusa PEI sheet. But would be a great topic for a next video: How not to remove prints from a Prusa PEI sheet) Keep on making videos with the mrs!
@@cees9314 Hmmm... boy, boy, please relax. I like the way these videos are made. Not super polished. Not with a huge crowd in mind. I especially like the diversity of subjects that are covered by such a small TH-cam channel. Please look thru some ‘errors’ and enjoy the learning curve that is displayed here.
@@anwira2 You are right.. my response became a bit too lengthy.. No harm intended. I like the style of this channel too.. Just that it would be nice if youtubers take a little bit more responsibility for their content.
Stop making excuses for Prusa. You pay top money, you deserve a working product out of the box. I just bought a mini after years with Creality, so treated myself. Extruder setup is hit and miss. Now way was I expecting to be cocking about with it after 5 mins of printing. Should have bought 3 enders instead. 🙄
So, I had this problem with my mini but it was clogging. I checked everything, changed the nozzle and adjusted the idler tension. The last thing was the PTFE tube. So, I printed, in PLA very slowly, a jig that would act as a spacer between the heat block and the fan shroud. That should be 4.8 mm. Mine was loose. Then I pulled the PTFE tube. It is supposed to be 43.5mm +/- 0.1mm. Mine, installed by Prusa, was 42.5mm. Luckily, the included spare was 43.5mm exactly. So I put that in and adjusted the gap to 4.8 mm and voila, no more problems. If you have clicking, check the length of the PTFE tube first.
Nice details there thanks :)
Mine came 43.0mm from the factory. I had endless problems printing unless I slowed the machine way down or increased the temps enough to cause other issues. Fortunately, the spare that the printer came with was the correct length.
The PTFE tube on my hotend was 42.5 mm replaced with the spare that was 43.5mm exactly and I'm back printing. nice tip thanks
Dude - I can't thank you enough for sharing this detail with the short PTFE tube!!! You're a life saver - I was pulling my hair out of anger, how to solve this super annoying issue. Exactly like you said - my factory PTFE tube was literally your size - 42.5mm. The spare one was 43.5mm. So I only swapped them - nothing else, no adjustments etc. Now everything works perfect! Thank youuuuu :) By the way I'll share another tip that has nothing to do with this - I'm just in a sharing mood :) It about how to get perfect adhesion. Guys I print small text-icon objects and adhesion is super important in my case. Best alternative that I found after testing and experimenting for over a year and a half is either using the regular nail polish remover (has Acetone) or Clorox Remover (with bleach in it). Just buy them from your local Dollarama (we have this in Canada) or Dollar Tree. Then buy one roll of paper tower and rub the remover with it. GUYS - I can do close to 10 prints without any wiping at all :) not like what Prusa said - use alcohol every time. The key here is to use clean piece of paper tower every time you wipe. At one point I was using strong dish soap and would clean it with a sponge - also had great results, but then every 2-3 weeks or so I had to change the sponge, as it was getting greasy and it was actually making it worse than good. My second method though works like a charm! Anyways my 2 cents story :)
You are a crack!
Hello from France. Thanks a lot for all your videos. Especially for those speaking of the Prusa Mini.
Thank you for this video it has been very helpful for troubleshooting my issues. I upgraded from Ender 3 and so far I have had only issues with this printer. Not what I expected....
This is my first experience with a Bowden style extruder and I have only had my Prusa Mini for a couple of days. I had a really difficult time, and poor results with first layer calibrations.
I was experiencing the clicking noises which resulted in reduced filament flow and ultimately nozzle clogs. For me, undoing the PTFE compression nearest to the hot-end, and selecting the Filament Unload menu function was the only way to fix. You have to be ready with a pair of cutters or scissors and put a small amount of "pull" on the Teflon tubing. When the unload filament cycle starts, it will attempt to back out the filament. You only have a second or two to cut the filament(don't cut too close, as you will need some filament to grab a hold of to pull out from the hot-end) before the process forces the filament back into the hot-end(along with the Teflon tubing). Once cut, run the Filament Unload again and the filament should unload completely. Also, you'll notice that about 10" from the end, the filament has been chewed up a little where the stepper feed motor was attempting to feed in the filament. Be sure to cut off any rough spots before attempting to reload, and reattach the compression fitting & PTFE tubing.
WHAT SOLVED THE CLICKING AND NOZZLE CLOGGING PROBLEMS FOR ME IS CHANGING TO A DIFFERENT BRAND OF FILAMENT. It could be that Bowen extruders are much more "fussy" about filament tolerances. I tried a couple of different brands of filament that work OK on other 3D printers that I use, but caused problems for me on the Mini. The other 3D printers that were "OK" with this filament all had direct extruders.
For future readers/viewers: There's another factor that can affect the extruder - cog distance between motor and the extruder pulley. The motor axis can be slightly shifted closer or further from the pulley axis. Too close and it will seize, to far apart and you may get a klicking noise when the filament is retracted. Unfortunately, you will need to disassemble the extruder in order to get to the screws that hold the motor. (See the manual, it shows the disassembly step by step.)
Mine (a kit assembly) seem to have its motor shifted after a very intense period of printing very detailed prints and seized up. When unloading filament you get a loud screeching noise at the end when the motor "stalls".
For the atomic pull, I'll put the filament in and out several times as it cools down from 210C, cutting the end each time.
I just had your videos suggested by Almighty Algorithm. Good videos, and you have very pleasant voice :-)
Keep pushing the filament down as it is cooling down until it stops going out of nozzle, it has better chance to completely fill the void I mean hotend and stick onto dirt. Cool it down completely, after it's cool, start heating it again. Around 80 or 90 or maybe 110 degrees depending on filament you can tug on it, and at one point you will be able to yank it out. It's good to use cleaning filament or nylon or similar elastic material - white or transparent to better see the dirt - because you can wrap it around your finger or hand, which makes pulling it easier. You may need to repeat few times until you see no dirt in tip that formed.
I like that idea I will have to try that next time.
Great video. I suggest you pickup some micro side cutters, so much easier to handle. My first mini (December) had zero problems. My second mini (May) came with a tube that was too short and I had constant clicking. Really shocked at the QC.
thank ya
Hello Patrick, thank you so much for this video! My mini started underextruding after first couple of prints and I heard some clicks (mainly when bridging). This video was a tremendous help for me as I'm an absolute beginner and I was kinda scared from just what I found on the prusa troubleshooting website (really "unscrew the nozzle and clean it with needle" is not enough instruction for me :) ). This made it look simple and I was able to succesfully do a cold pull (I let it drop to 100° C with PLA) and it resolved my issues. So again, thank you very much!
I am glad the video helped :)
Same! Thanks a lot! 👍🏻
Also parts are not forever, long time clicking repaired by changing original spring that couldnt hold filament tight enought anymore.
goddamn I have watched this video like 10 times in the last 12 months
tighten the tension bolt on the back and fixed my mini, back in business! thank you @iqless
It looks that your filament is stretched during the cold pull because the hot end was not cold enough. Better keep pressure onto the filament (pushing) until it has fully solidified. Heat up again starting at the glass temp while firmly pulling onto the filament. The blob will release at the lowest possible temp without stretching the filament.
But I think you can have another problem because the extruder is not clicking constantly. Did you check the filament diameter/roundness as it comes from the reel? These filament parameters tend to vary cyclic. It can easily cause slipping/clicking if not within tolerance.
Very good advice. next time I will let it cool down more before pulling.
It seems to be behaving itself at the moment :)
@@iqless Another thing that I have found helpful is to do the cold pull with nylon filament in addition to what An Wira suggested. The nylon has a higher glass temp and will not deform as it "grabs" onto any of the PLA and debris that is left over inside the nozzle and pull it out. I have found this to work very well. Also, using a high contrast color for your pull material allows you to see what was is the nozzle. Cheers.
@@thehusbeast4986 yeah, cold pull should be always done with nylon, never with PLA
What is the length of the idler screw
ive got filament stuck in the extruder, ive tried feeding filament in from each end to clear it but no success. any ideas?
I used 90 c for cold pull.
it's amazing how many videos there are now of this same problem on the mini with extruder clicking.. I was always under the impression that Prusa were the top dogs when it came to 3D printing. Maybe I need to shop elsewhere? Surprised they haven't noticed the issue and fixed it before shipping anymore!
I have a few issues with my Prusa mini but overall I am pretty happy.
i think the acupuncture needle is actually a guitar string
could it be a striped gear and actually broke and need to be replaced?
It seems to be behaving itself so far...
Let me give it a few days
What brand of filament are you using in the video
That is Hatchbox 1.75 mm PLA
I usually use Hatchbox or Inland that I buy down at the microcenter :)
@@iqless Thankyou
I slowed it to 50% and tihighting the spring on the side
Mines not clicking but my filament won't come out so we will see if this fixes my issue! My original issue was my nozzle was clogged! Lol
Temps for my coldpulls depend on the type of filament I use. 100 for PLA and 110-120 for PETG
Mine printed perfectly the first couple of weeks, now it turned itself into a 400€ paper weight. Prusa is a total joke, I go back to my ender 3.
Happened to me right in the middle of a print
from yesterday my mini is driving me crazy... It is not clogged, I'm 100 % sure of it, a bit dirty for sure but now it is cleaned... I can purge without any clicking and it purges nice and clean... I did the atomic pull, cleaned with a needle, changed the heater ptfe tube, cleaned the extruder gear, played with the extruder gear tension BUT it still starts to click at some point during printing... I am so close to call prusa people again and tell them to come get this printer because I don't want to see it anymore. I am so disappointed because from february till yesterday it printed FLAWLESSY, the best printer I've ever had and that all my 3d printing friends are envy about because of the excellent print quality.... but now it is clicking and underextruding and still it is not clogged, it purges like usual with no clicking, it loads without clicking, it unload without clicking I really don't understand what is going on!
mine just started doing the same thing today. its been running great .ive had it for 2 weeks
Any chance you’ve fixed this? I have the same exact issue
@@ThiHexCrew I changed both heatbreak and nozzle with a bondtech one... it seems to be the only solution
Same issues here - every few months
Mine does this on certain filament colors. It's very odd
I turned the temp up
What was your start temp and what did your turn it up too?
With all these issues is it still worth purchasing?
I think its a good value and a good printer for 2020.
If you are looking for zero maintenance and zero issues I do not think that exist in 2020.
But if I had $500 would I buy the Prusa mini? Yep
If I had $1,000 to spend would I get the mini or the i3 MK3? Today I would go for the i3 MK3 for the size and more reliable code. But I hope in 6 months they will have fixed the Prusa mini so I can say I would only choose the i3 MK3 for a bigger size and the multicolor upgrade feature.... but time will tell
One other thought I had....
The i3 MK3 wins in ease/quickness for swapping filament.
iqless ok thank you have you tried any other printers in this price range that you would recommend? I am looking for a secondary printer in this price range (coming from an Anet a8) love the a8 for the price nothing more super high maintenance I just want something reliable and affordable now
That is the bad thing about me I have only had a Prusa i3 MK3 and now the Prusa Mini.
I would not classify the Prusa Mini as super high maintenance. So far I would say its roughly as reliable as the i3 MK3.
I ran 4+ Kg of material through it before I did this fix.
I am 80% sure I am going to be recommending this. I just want to beat on it for another 2 months and also see at least one major software upgrade to address a few issues they currently have.
iqless from what I’ve heard prusa always fixes issues so I’m confident they’ll fix these 4kg of filament is a lot lol way more than I think I plan to print for a while so I’m definitely going to be considering a mini now so far every review I’ve seen is positive (mostly)
Never let go of the filament like you did. That's a sure way to get knots on the filament roll.
Do 3 times, and I use 90C
I liked your intro. Indeed, even with a Prusa you have to be prepared to solve an issue every now and then so knowing how the printer works is essential for happy printing days.
That said, the title of this video should have been: what not to do and how not to do it when your clueless why your extruder clicks.
Constructive criticism is always welcome here
Destructive criticism is not.
If you have an alternative method for fixing this problem please post it here or a link to it.
@@iqless My apologies, I did not intend to be disrespectful or 'destructive' but the point is you really show that you do not know what you are doing. If you make a video under the header ‘What to do...’ I feel you should know what to do and you clearly don't.
With virtually every step you take you first do it wrong, even say you never done it before, to then have an enlightened moment and in hindsight come up with a better way of doing it. Altogether you never identify the problem, let be solve it, and with every step you give the wrong advise.
Now take my feedback with a smile.. You are making youtube video’s (Good camera work by the way) and you are having fun doing it. I really like the mrs in the background whispering advice. Keep that in your formula.. It is really nice (I am not trying to be facetious here)
But I made an effort to be constructive by telling you exactly what I mean when I say you dont know what you are doing. Don't let this discourage you from making videos. My suggestion is just to do more research and better prep to come up with solid and useful advice. Because these topics are things people encounter and seek help on.
Ok.. hold on... ;-)
2:15 ‘You see the filament is not coming out’ .. while during the whole video filament flows freely.
2:22 ‘Filament can be to narrow’ .. yet nowhere in the video do you measure the filament diameter
2:28 ‘The gears grind and shred it a little bit’ .. yet you never check the filament for possible damage caused by the gears
2:50 ‘Pebbles and debris in the nozzle’ .. highly unlikely, however what can happen is particles from previous filament remains in the nozzle. Especially higher temp filament like ABS or Nylon that doesn't go fluid enough with lower temps like PLA and clogs the nozzle.
4.04 ‘Mine is broken and I like to fix it’.. Doesn’t seem broken to me.. We only hear some clicks, that for sure is not a good sign but it is not clear if it is actually causing print problems.
Are there failed prints? If so, what failed? Is there under extrusion, skipping layers?
4:11 ‘..and get this fixed’ .. Unfortunately the video ends without having identified the problem or offer a solution.
4:51 ‘’ .. purge filament.. Hopefully that solves your problem, it doesn’t solve mine’.. ‘Purging filament’ is a troubleshooting step not a solution. If filament flows then it is not a clogged nozzle so you can move on to the next possible cause. You have flowing filament but you keep on coming back to trying to solve a clogged nozzle.
6:27 ‘nothing is coming out’ .. yet filament is flowing constantly..
6:38 ‘on my Prusa i3 it got stuck’ this is a very different system. An Mk2/3 has a bondtech direct drive pulling filament (or at least pushing only a marginal distance to the heatbreak) whereas the mini has a bowden setup pushing filament.
6:58 ‘if that works, great, in my case it is not’ .. in your case it is working, filament is flowing..
7:03 ‘you can probably attempt to adjust it.’,’I didnt have to do this on this guy’,’So far I didnt have to adjust mine, I think it is ok’... so you keep claiming you have filament flow issues (clogged nozzle) which you clearly do not have as you constantly show flowing filament, yet you immediately discard a likely probable cause being an incorrect extruder gear pressure setting. Now this would have been an relevant and educational part to dive into. Check filament for damage, how to set this properly, does it slip when you pull, etc. But, no.. lets go right back to a suspected clogged nozzle .. bring out the needles… sigh.. you do NOT have a clogged nozzle.
8:49 ‘there is probably something in there blocking it’ .. no .. nothing is blocking it .. it is flowing ..
9:03 .. back to dust and ‘pebbles’ … there is no dust or pebbles blocking a nozzle.. If anything it is reminiscence of old filament
9:55 ‘what could happen is that your winding gets knotted’ .. indeed that could happen and it is, like you say, not the case here.. However the way you let the filament go and let it spring back (11:03.) this will likely happen to you often. This is not the way to treat your filament and will cause catastrophic print fails. Bad example to your viewers.
10:14 ‘I am going to be lazy here and turn it off and back on because I want it to cool off’ … Really? No! .. this is what you advise your viewers to do? This can cause damage to your hotend and will cause clogs in the end.
11:10 ‘Oh, there is a cool down button. I never thought about that’.... sigh.. you are really doing this all for the first time aren't you..
11:20 ‘if you turn it off and walk away there could be some damage’’ .. what an epiphany .. if you knew this why turn it off the first time?
12:05 ‘And see what we can see because I have never seen this…’ well do you or dont you have expertise to share? You are so clearly doing this all for the first time. .. If you post a video under the header ‘what to do ..’ dont you think it is only fair if you actually know what to do?
12:22 ‘..let me take this one off too… well probably not’ .. pff one saved at least before you did it wrong.
12:37 ‘at this point I am not too worried about that’ .. you shouldnt be worried about the hotend at all as everything you have done so far was prove the problem is not the hotend
12:49 ‘where is my tools..’ ..brings out a set of plyers that would make an old school plumber shy… this is fine mechanics .. that requires fine tools..
13:30 Your cold or atomic pull is painful to watch as you really have no idea what you are doing here. Please watch (and learn from): ‘3D Printing 101: How To Fix a Clogged Nozzle Using a Cold Pull!’ from 3D Printing Nerd.
13:51 Good thing is that you have learned during this video that there is a ‘cool down’ function in the menu.. good advise at last.
13:54 ‘this is where my expertise it not quit expertisy’ ...no.. that was already at 2:15
14:24 ‘I have done a 100c ..’ no, you have done something before but never a cold pull… this obviously is the first time you are trying to do it and you are doing it wrong!.
14:30 ‘pull it up by force’ .. No! You cant just say that with a cantilever printer.. you likely will damage the joint. A cold pull with any printer is a coordinated careful procedure (these are fine mechanics remember) but with a cantilever printer you have to be extra careful. You have to make sure the hotend is as close to the stand as possible and you have to make sure you press against the hotend while you pull. Ok, at 15:02 you almost show the right way to hold the hotend while you pull but you shouldn't pull with the hotend at the end of the arm. And luckily you figured that out at 16:14
15:11 obviously an unsuccessful ‘cold’ pull … the hotend was too warm still and you are using PLA when you should use nylon.
15:40.. Again just letting go of the filament.. That is not how to treat your filament if you care about a successful print.
What my problem with your video is, is that you obviously do not know what you are doing and that you are figuring stuff out while you are doing it. Nothing wrong with that but dont claim that you know what to do.. because you don’t. Call your video ‘lets figure this out together as we go’ because by claiming you know what you are doing you confuse people to the point that they are wrongfully doubting the machine: Robby Sodhi ‘With all these issues is it still worth purchasing?’
Now my suggestions on the problem;
- You could be using a PLA setting with ABS or NYLON. The temp now is too low and the filament not viscous enough so the nozzle cant extrude the filament quickly enough .. the extruder is pushing faster than the hotend can process,causing skipping gears (clicks).
- Your slicer settings (flow rates etc.) are of causing a too high calculated flow rate which causes as well the extruder to push to faster than the hotend can process.
- do check the extruder gears pressure.
Please do let us know if you have found the cause finally
(...and better not use that metal spatula you have a the left side of the printer on a Prusa PEI sheet. But would be a great topic for a next video: How not to remove prints from a Prusa PEI sheet)
Keep on making videos with the mrs!
@@cees9314 Hmmm... boy, boy, please relax. I like the way these videos are made. Not super polished. Not with a huge crowd in mind. I especially like the diversity of subjects that are covered by such a small TH-cam channel. Please look thru some ‘errors’ and enjoy the learning curve that is displayed here.
@@anwira2 You are right.. my response became a bit too lengthy.. No harm intended. I like the style of this channel too.. Just that it would be nice if youtubers take a little bit more responsibility for their content.
Stop making excuses for Prusa. You pay top money, you deserve a working product out of the box. I just bought a mini after years with Creality, so treated myself. Extruder setup is hit and miss. Now way was I expecting to be cocking about with it after 5 mins of printing. Should have bought 3 enders instead. 🙄
the prusa mini is a piece of junk ive gave up on it.
Should have called this video how to try and fix your Prusa, fail and waste everyone’s time. Thanks for wasting my time.