Cole, you've done really well to get that far diagnosing an EFI system fitted to an A-series in that amount of time! This episode made me chuckle as I had similar problems when installing a Specialist Components EFI system onto my Cooper, it came with the CAN bus signal wires connected back to front in the loom and the pre loaded ECU map had the O2 sensor voltage range back to front...kept me busy for months and months! Needless to say my car didn't start first time, just a lot of backfiring! Love your channel.
Thanks Darren! Sounds like a real headache you had to deal with. I guess that’s the trade off more complexity has initial issues but once it’s running and configured it’s super reliable.
The high idle scenario is interesting. My '76 Alfetta GT has the SPICA injection, which is a pretty good system, and when I start it I always leave the hood up so I can see everything (It's a project car right now), so idle was about 1500-2000rpm. Closed the hood and the thing sat at a comfortable 1100rpm cold. Great video, nice to see this thing running!
That’s amazing how quickly it fired up the first time!! Sucks you have some issues but I’m sure Holley will pull it out the bag and get a replacement sent for you. Amazing of Stewart to pay for repairs like that also 👌🏻
Blimey Cole you've certainly had a lot to work through there hey! Credit to Stuart for reimbursing you. Let's hope Holley can help. Great episode!! Looking forward to the next episode already lol 😊
Totally an experiment. Looking forward to seeing how it performs. I know there are kits like this for the old Series Land Rovers to boost the clutch which is where I got the idea to try with this setup.
Nissan Patrols have for many years used a small clutch booster. Might be worth investigating as they are a fair bit smaller than the big brake boosters. Probably pick one up from a motor wrecker cheap.
Oh really? I don't think we had the Nissan Patrol here in the USA but I might be able to order some replacement part online somewhere. Thanks for the tip!
Great to hear it running, sounds great. Must be very frustrating having to do all this added diagnostic work though. Good work though! It's going to be MEGA!! 💨💨💨💨💨💨💨💨
Common installation issue with the throttle body , you got it crossed up wired , switch it around and you’ll notice it’ll read properly when you test it . Common mistake . Running a bigger pulley on the cooling then your going to cook the motor ( more the water stays in the heated area the hotter it gets , why you think they drop thermostat out ? Make water pass easier out cooling more . Minis the worst cooling systems . What diff you running , surely not a standard one ? Going to need to brace that motor in if it runs right or it’ll start ripping itself out
@@classicminidiy It still has a distributor but there is no electronics inside, just a rotor arm and cap. No external ignition module either. I remember going to set the timing on KITT and you could just twist the dizzy any way you liked and the timing remained spot on. Seemed very odd but then I looked at the wiring diagram and the ignition switched negative pulse comes direct from the ECU
Not sure if yours has it or not but my manifold has cut outs on bottom of the flanges so it doesnt have the traditional bottom piece. It allows me to pre install the nuts and washers and then just set the manifold down into place. Then you just tighten the bolts up and youre ready to roll.
Cole - fantastic work. I may have missed it, but how much boost is the supercharger producing - in an earlier vid, I heard you say that it was a "preset" boost, but do you know what the number actually is? Thanks and keep up the fantastic work!
I’m building a 1330cc sc 7 port Riley Elf. I had an engine out of a spi and changed the clutch to a lighter pre verto. I was worried about how heavy the clutch was going to be and had the exact same idea!!! Please let us know if it works or not as I haven’t started to install it yet.
From what you’ve said about the idle valve, it sounds like a configuration issue in the software. You are saying it seems like it thinks it’s 100% open, well that’s how it is acting too. Is there anything you can try to change it to be the opposite in software, even if that goes against how you thought it should be set
That was my thinking as well though I didn't explain it correctly now that I listen back to what I said. Holley says the IAC should read between 2-10% with the idle screw adjusted properly at hot idle. in my case when my valve is wide open (loud sucking) the IAC reading indicates its at 0% although Holley's paperwork indicates this means its completely closed. So even with the IAC "completely closed" its sucking air through it like mad. I think the IAC is reading 0% and closed but its not actually shutting all the way.
@@classicminidiy Sure, is there a chance it is wired in completely backwards? or any settings you can change? some IAC valves actually need some power to close them, otherwise they hang open
Seemed overwhelming obvious that the issue is with the idle air control, just the sound it's making tells us that the IAC is letting way too much air through.
Perhaps, given my lack of experience with fuel injection (aka virtually no experience at all) it was less obvious. Learning all about the way these systems work has been super cool and this is a great chance for me to understand a component I would have otherwise just ignored.
So that is an option more as a last resort. Without that the ECU doesnt have the ability to manage the idle, so you end up with a much rougher idle on the car and it takes away one of the benefits of switching to an EFI system. That said if I cant get the IAC working I will probably end up just plugging it.
@@classicminidiy You are a good man, Cole. Just as you say, keep on motoring. I have watched many classic mini you tube channels, but yours still stands on top. You articulate the details very well, you edit very nicely, and you touch upon subjects that DIYers and weekend mechanic warriors are interested in. Ignore the haters and keep doing what you do. Can't wait to see you enjoy your super charged bad wolf.
Hi I know this has nothing to do with this vid but you did a vid on the gaz lowered shocks how do you adjust them all to the same level is there numbers or is it guess work? love your vids
It’s all about personal preference. I run about 8 clicks in the front and 13 in the rear. I run the tears tighter so they handle junk in the trunk a bit better hahaha
Could you please tell me the size of the supercharger belt. I have the same kit from Stewart at Vmaxscart and have emailed him, txt him etc but no reply. My mini has now sat in the garage 6 months as I can't find the right size belt anywhere. Please if you have time, message me the correct size so I can enjoy my mini again. Thanks so much
at sprintex in the midi 80,s, we developed a supercharger kit for mini,s ,primarily for a company called b a c , we used a stock hif 44 carb ,no charge cooling stock cr and 6 psi boost we saw over 115 hp at the wheels ,our only problems were overheating due to short circuiting air flow , but we cured that the mini was decked out like a wood and picket car of the 60,s electric everything weighed way more than it should went like hell ,terrible torque steer , the car was sold to a arab prince who had the superchanger removed to be able to fit a c ,so a complete waste of time,
This material i used to seal the windshields, i don't think so, it's good in the engine, is there oil(gasonline)proof? The Loctite 5980 is a proper gasket goo to seal engines.
Yes this blue sealant is effectively Hylomar Blue which is made specifically for intake and gasoline applications like this. Link for reference: amzn.to/2XvHZgR
From my understanding its the sealing compound used on all of Stuarts kits and they are known for their reliability and long lasting performance. I decided to defer to the builder on this one though my initial thought matched yours.
@@classicminidiy this sikaflex 221 in europe is a black 1 component elastic paste, looks different in your video. We used it in places to seal against water, but gasonline and diesel hurts it. The more durable 331 is for body panels, great goo also, but i would never use it in the engine, more than the loctite as i mentioned, it's works great on the oil pan. The us version sikaflex must be a little bit different, if they recommend.
Really enjoying this build. Just a thought, as the sniper is designed for a much larger engine, could it be the smallest amount of air the valve can let through is just too much for good idle on such a small unit?
Not a bad thought, the sniper can actually be configured way down for much smaller engines. Its part of the initial config when you run through the wizard. The mini is 1293cc / 78ci. With the supercharger boost its increased to 110ci in the software. I tried your recommendation and any lower than that and it runs pretty poorly. :-(
This setup is doomed to failure, The ECU has to read MANIFOLD Vacuum/ pressure, the base of the throttle body is always in vacuum Wail the manifold is under pressure. The SUPER sniper 2300 is made to take boost, with a draw through Setup you plug the vacuum port In the bottom of the throttle body Screw in a 1/16 NPTM into the side Of the throttle body and run a vacuum line to the manifold . The standard Holley sniper Doesn't have the hole for the NPTM fitting
It is difficult to follow your video. You make many turns explaining problems or possible problems you can find. It is possible to finish the whole job and explain directly how you did it, erasing the wrong things you found?. We know you are a good technician but it is a torture to follow any step you did, including the time you loosed doing troubleshooting.
Cole, you've done really well to get that far diagnosing an EFI system fitted to an A-series in that amount of time! This episode made me chuckle as I had similar problems when installing a Specialist Components EFI system onto my Cooper, it came with the CAN bus signal wires connected back to front in the loom and the pre loaded ECU map had the O2 sensor voltage range back to front...kept me busy for months and months! Needless to say my car didn't start first time, just a lot of backfiring! Love your channel.
Thanks Darren! Sounds like a real headache you had to deal with. I guess that’s the trade off more complexity has initial issues but once it’s running and configured it’s super reliable.
The high idle scenario is interesting. My '76 Alfetta GT has the SPICA injection, which is a pretty good system, and when I start it I always leave the hood up so I can see everything (It's a project car right now), so idle was about 1500-2000rpm. Closed the hood and the thing sat at a comfortable 1100rpm cold. Great video, nice to see this thing running!
That’s amazing how quickly it fired up the first time!! Sucks you have some issues but I’m sure Holley will pull it out the bag and get a replacement sent for you. Amazing of Stewart to pay for repairs like that also 👌🏻
Blimey Cole you've certainly had a lot to work through there hey! Credit to Stuart for reimbursing you. Let's hope Holley can help. Great episode!! Looking forward to the next episode already lol 😊
Great Scot Homes, 'it's as you always say, it's elementary Watson' lol great detective work sir!
Thanks man 😂
interesting way to use ya brake booster on ya clutch! that's something new that I've heard or seen b4 bro
Totally an experiment. Looking forward to seeing how it performs. I know there are kits like this for the old Series Land Rovers to boost the clutch which is where I got the idea to try with this setup.
Nissan Patrols have for many years used a small clutch booster. Might be worth investigating as they are a fair bit smaller than the big brake boosters. Probably pick one up from a motor wrecker cheap.
Oh really? I don't think we had the Nissan Patrol here in the USA but I might be able to order some replacement part online somewhere. Thanks for the tip!
The Spi Mini ECU controls timing. The distributor rotor has a wide copper band that allows timing changes at each point on the cap
Yesss, it runs! It’s just keeping you busy while you’re unable to go out and use it!
I mean....I guessssssss..... 😭
Hey Cole, Stuart is local to me and is spot on! Once you’re set up you will love the SC set up
Lucky! I wish he was close by so he could come by for a working session! Hahaha.
cant you jet the idle bypass down ? blank it off and drill ever larger holes until your adjuster varies the idle rev range .
Great to hear it running, sounds great.
Must be very frustrating having to do all this added diagnostic work though.
Good work though! It's going to be MEGA!! 💨💨💨💨💨💨💨💨
good job
Nice job, from start to end. Hope you solve efi problem soon.
Common installation issue with the throttle body , you got it crossed up wired , switch it around and you’ll notice it’ll read properly when you test it . Common mistake . Running a bigger pulley on the cooling then your going to cook the motor ( more the water stays in the heated area the hotter it gets , why you think they drop thermostat out ? Make water pass easier out cooling more . Minis the worst cooling systems . What diff you running , surely not a standard one ? Going to need to brace that motor in if it runs right or it’ll start ripping itself out
Ignition timing is ECU controlled on a SPI also mate
Wait really? I thought they used a mechanical distro
Classic Mini DIY they did, they still had a electronic system. In a mechanism distributor. Maybe the module is integrated into the ECU?
@@classicminidiy It still has a distributor but there is no electronics inside, just a rotor arm and cap. No external ignition module either. I remember going to set the timing on KITT and you could just twist the dizzy any way you liked and the timing remained spot on. Seemed very odd but then I looked at the wiring diagram and the ignition switched negative pulse comes direct from the ECU
@@Broyourenglishisgood Yes that's spot on.
your manifolds must be a great deal easier to get on and off than mine are...the two inner nuts took me a couple of hours to get on and tighten.
Not sure if yours has it or not but my manifold has cut outs on bottom of the flanges so it doesnt have the traditional bottom piece. It allows me to pre install the nuts and washers and then just set the manifold down into place. Then you just tighten the bolts up and youre ready to roll.
Cole - fantastic work. I may have missed it, but how much boost is the supercharger producing - in an earlier vid, I heard you say that it was a "preset" boost, but do you know what the number actually is? Thanks and keep up the fantastic work!
I’m building a 1330cc sc 7 port Riley Elf. I had an engine out of a spi and changed the clutch to a lighter pre verto. I was worried about how heavy the clutch was going to be and had the exact same idea!!! Please let us know if it works or not as I haven’t started to install it yet.
From what you’ve said about the idle valve, it sounds like a configuration issue in the software. You are saying it seems like it thinks it’s 100% open, well that’s how it is acting too. Is there anything you can try to change it to be the opposite in software, even if that goes against how you thought it should be set
That was my thinking as well though I didn't explain it correctly now that I listen back to what I said. Holley says the IAC should read between 2-10% with the idle screw adjusted properly at hot idle. in my case when my valve is wide open (loud sucking) the IAC reading indicates its at 0% although Holley's paperwork indicates this means its completely closed. So even with the IAC "completely closed" its sucking air through it like mad. I think the IAC is reading 0% and closed but its not actually shutting all the way.
@@classicminidiy Sure, is there a chance it is wired in completely backwards? or any settings you can change? some IAC valves actually need some power to close them, otherwise they hang open
Seemed overwhelming obvious that the issue is with the idle air control, just the sound it's making tells us that the IAC is letting way too much air through.
Perhaps, given my lack of experience with fuel injection (aka virtually no experience at all) it was less obvious. Learning all about the way these systems work has been super cool and this is a great chance for me to understand a component I would have otherwise just ignored.
i know i'm missing something but why not put a plug where you hold your finger to lower the idle ?
So that is an option more as a last resort. Without that the ECU doesnt have the ability to manage the idle, so you end up with a much rougher idle on the car and it takes away one of the benefits of switching to an EFI system. That said if I cant get the IAC working I will probably end up just plugging it.
You are very patient. I would be hitting my head against the workbench by now. 🤬😡😱😭😞
Hahaha oh don't worry there is lots of swearing and head hitting going on outside the calm and collected videos....
@@classicminidiy You are a good man, Cole. Just as you say, keep on motoring. I have watched many classic mini you tube channels, but yours still stands on top. You articulate the details very well, you edit very nicely, and you touch upon subjects that DIYers and weekend mechanic warriors are interested in. Ignore the haters and keep doing what you do. Can't wait to see you enjoy your super charged bad wolf.
Once again great vid interesting hope you resolve your problems how much more hp could you get from your upgrade? Coming straight from Greece!!!
Thanks! I am targeting 150hp after all is said and done.
Amazing
Thanks! I was so pleased with the first startup noise. :-)
@@classicminidiy love the whole set up
Hi I know this has nothing to do with this vid but you did a vid on the gaz lowered shocks how do you adjust them all to the same level is there numbers or is it guess work? love your vids
It’s all about personal preference. I run about 8 clicks in the front and 13 in the rear. I run the tears tighter so they handle junk in the trunk a bit better hahaha
Classic Mini DIY perfect thanks for the reply
What sort of bhp do you get with the supercharger
I never got this to a dyno before moving to a turbo setup but it was expected to be around 130-150
Could you please tell me the size of the supercharger belt. I have the same kit from Stewart at Vmaxscart and have emailed him, txt him etc but no reply. My mini has now sat in the garage 6 months as I can't find the right size belt anywhere. Please if you have time, message me the correct size so I can enjoy my mini again. Thanks so much
How are you coming along with the idle? I am actually keen on how this works as I am looking for an efi option for an MGB 1.8l engine.
Still waiting on some parts to arrive but I will definitely be doing a video as soon as they arrive with a full explanation of the solution. :-)
at sprintex in the midi 80,s, we developed a supercharger kit for mini,s ,primarily for a company called b a c , we used a stock hif 44 carb ,no charge cooling stock cr and 6 psi boost we saw over 115 hp at the wheels ,our only problems were overheating due to short circuiting air flow , but we cured that the mini was decked out like a wood and picket car of the 60,s electric everything weighed way more than it should went like hell ,terrible torque steer , the car was sold to a arab prince who had the superchanger removed to be able to fit a c ,so a complete waste of time,
Anyone else freak out at 13:55? I thought a hand was reaching out of the intake!
"Found your problem right there! Theres a hand in your intake..." Hahaha
This material i used to seal the windshields, i don't think so, it's good in the engine, is there oil(gasonline)proof? The Loctite 5980 is a proper gasket goo to seal engines.
Yes this blue sealant is effectively Hylomar Blue which is made specifically for intake and gasoline applications like this.
Link for reference: amzn.to/2XvHZgR
I think Bence means sikaflex is a bad idea for sealing a manifold which I would have thought too. It’s normally used for windows and body panels
From my understanding its the sealing compound used on all of Stuarts kits and they are known for their reliability and long lasting performance. I decided to defer to the builder on this one though my initial thought matched yours.
@@classicminidiy this sikaflex 221 in europe is a black 1 component elastic paste, looks different in your video. We used it in places to seal against water, but gasonline and diesel hurts it. The more durable 331 is for body panels, great goo also, but i would never use it in the engine, more than the loctite as i mentioned, it's works great on the oil pan. The us version sikaflex must be a little bit different, if they recommend.
Good news, bad news deal. Be interested to see how you get on.
Yup lots of progress with a few hitches. I'll sort them out eventually though haha!
Really enjoying this build. Just a thought, as the sniper is designed for a much larger engine, could it be the smallest amount of air the valve can let through is just too much for good idle on such a small unit?
Not a bad thought, the sniper can actually be configured way down for much smaller engines. Its part of the initial config when you run through the wizard. The mini is 1293cc / 78ci. With the supercharger boost its increased to 110ci in the software. I tried your recommendation and any lower than that and it runs pretty poorly. :-(
Classic Mini DIY would it be that much at idle? How many psi does the charger produce at 8-900 rpm?
if youve got too much air going in then youve just got too much air going in
Hmmmm - it's a Mini and you're trying to turn it into a Tardis - Yodah says - Endless problems in your future I see....
Patience...jump in your new VW and forget it for awhile?
This setup is doomed to failure,
The ECU has to read MANIFOLD
Vacuum/ pressure, the base of the throttle body is always in vacuum
Wail the manifold is under pressure.
The SUPER sniper 2300 is made to take boost, with a draw through
Setup you plug the vacuum port
In the bottom of the throttle body
Screw in a 1/16 NPTM into the side
Of the throttle body and run a vacuum line to the manifold .
The standard Holley sniper
Doesn't have the hole for the
NPTM fitting
Remember CAR stands for...Constantly Agitating Realpeople
It is difficult to follow your video. You make many turns explaining problems or possible problems you can find. It is possible to finish the whole job and explain directly how you did it, erasing the wrong things you found?. We know you are a good technician but it is a torture to follow any step you did, including the time you loosed doing troubleshooting.
soooo much talking....
Fully explained!