Unlimited pot life 2k clear in a can? Is this the best spray can clearcoat?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2024
- Today we are going to go over the CAR-REP 2k Aerosol clearcoat. This is a re-useable activated in atmosphere, Chemical resistant clearcoat, As well as scratch and mar resistance! Jump in to find out if this is a must have spray can in your arsenal! Would this be a great option for clearing tumblers? Small test panels? Small car parts? Perhaps I will test these on clearing headlights?
This may be the BEST spray can clearcoat money can buy!
The Airspace is dedicated to all things atomized! Primarily teaching airbrushing tips tricks, reviews and much much more to come!
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Very good review! You seemed to answer all my questions.
Great to hear! Thanks!
Thank you for the review i m going to use it on my model kits.
I’m looking forward to see seeing the two cans versus each other.
I think i have one can of spraymax here left.. Ill see if I can get something to use it up on.
So I used createx paint on plastic spoons and cleared them with the 2 k the results were amazing
i use quite a lot of createx products. And ive used 2k over many of them for years now. The car rep is really awesome since I can do one small thing with it.. clean the nozzle and put it up. I have an old can i just realized was sitting on the shelf from months ago.. i think ill give that a test and see how the shelf life held up. I do know its still liquid.
Glad you are happy!
I wouldn't recommend it for anything but small rigid items. If it doesn't apply and cure in perfect conditions it appears to cure incorrectly, causing it to become hard and brittle which will eventually lead to the entire surface cracking.
Thanks for your review. Great product but boy it leaves an overwhelming smell in my workshop for a day or two.
well it is a 2k product.. so proper safety is highly highly encouraged.
Its a very handy product
Nice review on this. I would love to see an intentional scratch test on this product when you do the head-to-head comparison. I'm wondering if it's a candidate on fishing lures for toothy critters like pike and walleyes. Been looking at a bunch of different things guys are using and pretty much pinned down to alumilite uv or Bob Smith Industries 30 minute epoxy. Interested in the potential durability of this though for sure.
I will look into doing an abrasion test. I will say it takes a few days to really get well cured. Its also dependant on humidity.. it actually loves higher humidity conditions.. which is a big plus here :)
Bob says "Oy where's ya gloves?" 🤔😉😂
Ok back to the serious bit...
Spray Max 2K is now available in the UK for around £17.00, however Car Rep 2K isn't currently available, that's with a quick look around on the net, however there is a similar product HB 2K 496 Clear which is a available (I haven't tried it yet hopefully soon) at around £10+ a can.
Nice vid by the way 🙂
😉😎👍🤘
I show germany canada and the USA currently off their main site. Maybe its a brexit issue :) LOL
Thanks Neil!
That would be great for my Breyer Stablemate Horse's. 😊👍
Sounds awesome! :)
Been wanting to try some of their products
I have only used the clearcoat. I've heard a LOT of good things. And the clear is very nice. I mean its not gonna replace a really good euro clear. But for the small things there's not much to complain about.
i want that head to head comparision
My paint supply store catries that but at damn near over 12 bucks a can I'll stick o my hvl0 gun cost just over 80 bucks for gallon kit. clear and catalized
If you are spraying every day, then of course you could do those small things with those large things. But there is a huge segment of people these make sense for. I HAVE more than one spray gun. Yet i'm still using these :) There is also mobile applications . Of course everyone has to look at their unique situation. :)
I've used both and found the Spraymaxx head and shoulders above the car rep garbage...I followed the instructions to the letter and it was crap
what kind of issue did you have?
I applied 2 layers and it was very nice after 2 days, all the transparent that has already been applied is broken, what can I do?
I would love to see a video of the two 2k clear cans compared to each other, since i often use the regular one, and haven't had the courage to try out the newer one which doesnt need activating.
it may be a couple weeks but I have it on my list, just trying to come up with a couple small things to make popping the spraymax worth popping for :)
@@TheAIRspace Sounds great, yeah you almost have to use the whole can of the spraymax after popping it, to feel you didn't waste your money. Which also is the reason i end up painting waaay more than first inteded when doing my projects and using the spraymax.
Painting my motorcycle tank/frame covers and helmet.. i bought a can of the SprayMax 2k High gloss.. just kinda accepting that i was going to have to throw away half the can after the job ... I wonder if this would be a better option and just save that can for if/when i do a bigger job.. I would love to see a comparison of how the two stand up specifically to gas, and chips .. things that motorcycle tanks would encounter...
See and the way im wired... that is the very first thing i asked. How does it compare.
Doing a helmet and a tank and im assuming sidecovers? more than one can.
I did as a test, an entire honda shadow in spraymax 2-3 years ago. I used 4 cans. And was very suprised how well it held up.
Now i plan on doing a rock chip comparison and test on them.. scratch resistance is about equal.
Spraymax is thicker and gets harder faster. In all honesty, the car rep is way easier to get to lay down super slick but also a bit thinner so easier to run. Both are easier to use than a real spray gun.
@@TheAIRspace and since im not even really a beginner (this is the first time ive ever picked up an airbrush) ... easy is good!
and yes, helmet, tank, and side covers on a suzuki sfv 650...no faring so thats good but still a number of smaller frame cover pieces and the two fenders
you can get a 6 pack of spraymax cans for 100 bucks HERE
amzn.to/3K6xV41
(aff link, as an amazon affilliate I earn income on qualifying purchases and all that legal jazz)
A cheap tyvek suit is recomended and a good repirator.. a clean well ventilated place to spray not in direct sunlight
And it is very doable. Will you get the same results as a pro? Nope on a first job not likely at all. Can with managed expectations get a good job absolutely. And if you learn how to remove dust nibs you will get (even happens in a spray booth) or the random mosquito, and buff and polish you can literally get a near perfect job.
What are you using to basecoat with? When it comes to spraying an automotive clearcoat.. cleaning is a MUST managing dust and having a good base surface is literally the most important steps.
I believe The youtube channel Paint society has a video on using spraymax on a fender.. he does a LOT of videos for the garage painter. Great resource when it comes to automotive painting for the DIy painter.
Will this fryup rustoleum? Even rustoleum clear results in fryup, can't understand what's goin on here...
when it wrinkles up, its a case where the solvent softens the layer of paint, sometimes because the paint is not fully cured (rustoleum can take several days to cure and very dependant on temperature and environment sprayed in.
So once that paint is soft and the clear layer starts shrinking (paint shrinks as solvent evaporates) it causes it to wrinkle up.
I personally have had great experiences with this clear. ive seen some mention some problems, but all solvent paints have specefic environmental factors to perform their best.
Personally id never use a 2k product over rustoleum, actually avoid rustoleum due to issues ive dealt with in the past. I do occasionally use some of their paints but not as part of a multi layer system.
@@TheAIRspace Thanks, I guess I'll just polish it to gloss and not try clearing over, see how it goes.
Can I ask why you didn't hit the piece with another spray instead of buffing it?
I was removing a dust nib/trash out of the clear. Another layer would have just buried it deeper and still needed to be removed.
great informative video! do you know of a good satin finish option?
I don't think they have a satin. Spray max does, however I don't use a lot of satin in automotive grade. I have used a lot of sating createx topcoats, and I used to use a lot of the hot rod flatz clears. I would have to reseaech a bit on satins that are auto grade aside from using my spray gun. ;/
@@TheAIRspace thank you for getting back to me. so as far as painting a tumbler in satin ill have to look further. I've though about UVLS satin. Now as far as top coating a 24x36" illustration on aluminum panel or MDF with a satin finish what would you suggest besides UVLS(cost) would do well? and a aerosol can option?
@@thunder2165 honestly curious why the IVLS cost would be an issue compared to any 2k clear. It’s far cheaper.
@@gatorjoe6 I’m just looking for the least expensive alternative to UVLS. My artwork is 24x36” and 36x48” and the cost adds up to cover these pieces.
you could look into the 5600 series clears createx has.. which do not have the UV element to them and are a few bucks cheaper. And then get a medium spray gun. 36x48 is a lot of ground to cover Without a spray gun a Satin finish will be hard to pull off on aluminum that size. Satin as you probably already know cannot be buffed so any debris in the paint job is stuck there.
I have used a lot of the 5600 series clearcoats on large items... i call it createx's forgotten clearcoat. the scenix satin is my favorite however.. and im a fan of the crosslink additive.. but I have been told many many times im one of the very few that liked it. I think a lot of that has to do with understanding 2% means 2 % and you need to stir the clear while adding the crosslinker. And I believe the SSR clear is completely going away.
Would you say this is comparable to the spray max as far as clarity and general use durability?
Clarity is good. The spray max is a little thicker build and maybe a little better doi
There is now a “pro” version of this but I have not tried it yet I probably will just to see what the difference may be
I know a lot of guys using these on panels, decks and such now. For small projects I use this. If I think it will burn most of a can I’ll pop a spraymax can just for the thicker build. But this lays flatter easier than spraymax as well.
I perhaps would trust the spraymax on durability slightly more. I did a test on a full motorcycle 3 ish years ago with spraymax (my sons). And it really turned out well
5how do u think it will hold up on metal spoons for fishing?
Its a 2k clear. So thats what you will get. Some epoxies will definitely be stronger, on the bodies I don't see there being a lot of issue. But on spinners I imagine they would ding up quite a bit.
I tried it twice on my car and the first time it took 1 month to crack spraying clear after the base coat has rested for 1 hour.. This time it only took 2 days to crack after getting Car Rep's advise on letting the base coat cure for over a week before using clear. Everyone I've talked who has tried this product as also had it crack on them close to 2 days after application. You couldn't pay me to use this product.
ive had no issues with cracking, however
Cracks in a clearcoat are always caused by basecoat shrinking, which means the basecoat or primer is not cured.
If using urethane basecoat its almost always down to the primer not being cured before base was sprayed. But more often than not, its caused by painting an acrylic enamel as a basecoat. Simply rustoleum and products of like are not meant to be a basecoat under a 2k clear. And they can actually take months to fully cure out.
Spraying a catalyzed paint (regardless of how it is catalyzed) which cures by chemical reaction is going to seal and harden into a solid piece. If any of the surface below is not fully cured and then subjected to sunlight rapidly accelerating curing cracks form.
That is literally how the cracked/checked paint finish is simulated.. spraying a faster curing paint over a slower curing paint hence when the underneath layer cures .. the cured topcoat can no longer shrink and cracks.
Panel temp, ambient temp, humidity levels are all things that need to be monitored and understood before painting a car. Or a motorcycle/ helmet/ guitar what have you.
Each paint has a "window" IE you would cover basecoat within a set amount of time, or have to wait and sand the finish before clearcoating. And the manufacturer would have the tech sheets for that.
@@TheAIRspace Thanks for the tip and advice however this product cracked where there was no base coat as well where I had a 600 grit scratch into factory clear.
Where did you get the little polishing pads?
You can get a multiple size set here :)
amzn.to/3FpBsvu
#afflink
What about uv resistance?
It is uv resistant.
How would this clear coat turn out on a painted canvas?
it would be overkill honestly. I much prefer a mineral spirits based varnish for canvas. While none of those will be as glossy as a 2k. There really is no need for a 2k clear on canvas... not to mention how toxic 2k products are to spray.
These for sure should be left for projects that need the absolute strongest protection or the absolute best gloss you can get without going to professional spray equipment. (which I also have)
@@TheAIRspace Thank you for your reply and great advise as always! I figured it was overkill but I had to ask.
Could you please tell me when do i remove the masking tape after i finish the final 2k aerosol clearcoat gloss? i understand that there is 15 minutes dry time in-between coats, so id also like to know if its safer to leave the drying time a little longer and I ask this because i ended up with an orange peel finish after using this product on the second coat.
If you go too longer after the first coat, you have to allow it to completely cure before recoating (and need to scuff sand) same as any 2k. what you can do is touch a taped spot and test the clear, you want it to be sticky still but not wet when you recoat.
Preferably you would always be going edge to edge on a 2k product, blending in is very difficult, and requires a blending solvent. However if for some reason you need to tape a section say at an edge and you want the paint edge to not pull with the tape, you would pull the tape few minutes after the final clear. where the paint is still a little sticky its still going to flow a little.
Orange peel telegraphs , so if you have peel on the base paint the clear will have some as well. Generally speaking for a spray can this lays flatter than most. Being a little thinner than spraymax is less likely to peel. HOwever if you are painting in very hot temps peel is more likely. anything that speeds up the initial cure will keep the paint from flowing out. Any 2k needs to be laid wet on the edge of running.. and it flows and levels out for the first couple of minutes so diagnosing orange peel without being there is extremely difficult.
@@TheAIRspace oh thank you so much. My 2nd coat on the first job was perfect, so I guess I left it too long on the second job. once the third coat is on, shall i take the masking tape off straight away?
@@janice8460 give it about 10 minutes after the last coat then pull your tape. but you gotta be careful cause if you touch the paint... its gonna leave a spot
Orange peel is common even among the best. Heck a factory car paint job has orange peel and its done by robots. So a small minor peel is doing well. I can get small parts to lay like glass .. but the larger the project the more things wont be perfect. Its just a practice thing really.
@@TheAIRspace ah ok, thank you!!! awesome reply... ,my area is very small, so I should be ok with your advice now... This product is going to be perfect to use on my OEM select indian floor boards (motorbike) as the centre floorboard area that this clear coat is going on is also NOT flush to the floor boards actual gripping surface. Even if my boots touch it, your product will hold up so well. cheers!!!
@@TheAIRspace may i ask one more question please. I wanted extra durability on my motorbike floor boards, would it hurt to do another coat of clear in a couple of weeks when the paint is fully cured? obviously id need to do a very light wet sand first. OR is it best just to leave it as is?
also how wide is that fan pattern or is there a different cap that could snap on to get a wider fan ??
I’d have to measure but it’s about 5.5 inches five or take at normal spray distances rough guess.
You might be able to refit some other caps but I don’t know any that really would be better. It’s pretty close to the same pattern as the spraymax.
The quick lowdown on the difference between the two. Spraymax builds up slightly thicker faster. My guess is it’s more solids content. This seems a negative. But for some may be much easier to lay out a smoother slicker finish with less orange peel.
From ease of use and reuse ability the car rep is way handier for small projects. But I keep some of both on hand.
@@TheAIRspace thanks for the input man!
WARNING: Do not use Car-Rep 2K Polyurethane Clear Coat. This product over dark colors may crack if exposed to sunlight. Stuff looked great until exposed to sunlight. What a nightmare . . . literally.
if dark colors cracked after being exposed to direct sunlight, i suspect the underlying paint was not cured completely. Shrinking when it was heated up. I mean I could be wrong, and you could have some reaction ive never seen. But I do have this applied on black motorcycle parts going on a couple years now. Very very rarely is a delamination, cracking, or other issues the result of the actual clearcoat product.
Enamels remain soft and unstable a long time, so if you put this over a spraypaint thats a very high probability of failure.
@@TheAIRspace The Spectral Paints Base Coat was several weeks beyond the curing time recommended. The base coat (under the clear coat) is actually still in tack with no cracks. This is my recommendation as I have used other clear coat products on many projects over the years and have never had this cracking to occur. This may be a fluke occurrence but it happened with me and I will never chance this product again.
Do a comparison side my side .... Tape down the middle .. duh!!!!
well that's easy enough. however you wanna compare DOI (distinction of image) scratch and solvent resistance. Chip resistance etc.
It's not petrol resistant
yes it is..
@@TheAIRspace okay, the Amazon review I read said otherwise
@@ballerblocks i can say with absolute certainty, i have tested this with multiple chemicals for resistance. now if you soak a part in gasoline even factory paint will fail in time. I have used better clears from a spray gun certainly. But id not hesitate to use this on small automotive parts. I have seen a few people do bumpers as well as an entire fender (id use my spray gun for that personally)
You can always use spraymax 2k cans as well. which I find to be slightly thicker. I do think the spraymax2k is slightly better in DOI (distinction of image) But few would be able to tell. But I find this lays out easier with less chance of orange peel.. when directions are followed. All 2k products are going to be sensitive to atmospheric conditions when spraying.
@@TheAIRspace thank you, I really appreciate you response, as I was going to buy the spray max, and then I watched you video and went over to Amazon to purchase this product hence my confusion.
Thank you
@@ballerblocks unfortunately amazon reviews are all over the charts. i try and keep a very open and critical mind when I read reviews on amazon. Ive seen amazing reviews on garbage, and seen a lot of reviews complaining where they just don't know how to use something.
For instance I have a small cordless sander/polisher. I use to buff small items i read a review where someone complained the batteries run out before he can do his car.. its definitely not intended to buff a car :) He said it was garbage yet ive used mine going on 2 years now. done headlights on about 6 vehicles, many small panels and parts here and there