I have a 93 E150 with a F4TE roller motor from factory, I’ve had the van for 23 years and it’s August 93 production date. So not all 93 truck motors are non roller.
I bought a factory roller 351 from a buddy about 10 years ago for 350 bucks, did a build with Ford Motorsport parts,put it in my 87gt, made my own distributor to use factory connector from 302 and 351 parts, bbk swap headers, tubilar k-member made so much more room too
My Goodness... This is what I wanted to know with visuals but the other bloggers didn't touch on very well. The diff. Between 93' & down 351W vs. The 94'-97' 351W motor. Especially the cam information on roller & non roller & how to convert it to roller. Great info 👍
He never mentioned you need a reduced base circle cam if using stock lifters or you will lose oil pressure from the lifters sitting higher out of the shorter lifter bores.
@@supersportimpalass that's if you're going to put the spider or the newer 351 engines right? If you're going for the older type lifters on the 93' down you wouldn't have to do that?
I have a 1972 351 W that I put a Lunati roller cam and roller hydraulic lifters in. Used the dog bone retainer, drilled and tapped the bolt holes for the spring to hold the dog bones. Ran fine but had very low oil pressure. Called Lunati told them about the problem and was told that what I did won't work even though the catalog said it would. Seems that it needed to use the link bar lifters to maintain oil pressure. So I used Lunati link bar hydraulic roller lifters, shorter pushrods. Got my oil pressure back and has been running fine for six years. It is always something. 🙄
@@MrStroker408no he probably pinched the bearing and it restored itself after he got rid of the bolts over the bearings, why would the reduced base circle improve oil pressure
@@benjaminwatson7868because the lifter bores in roller blocks are taller. If you install stock roller lifters in a non roller block you need a reduced base circle cam to bring the lifters down in the bore.
@ the bores are taller but only by .030 from what I’ve eyeballed, the only thing I’ve really noticed that it effects is maybe the dogbones for the retainer
I watched this on my TV but got out the cellphone to post a comment. I understand that comments help your channel so, here I am! I don't have a Mustang (Personally, I Love my Challenger!) but I am building a version of your budget stroker and want to go roller with my 1973 351W engine. I am building this to go in my 1966 Fairlane GTA 2 door hardtop. She's a beautiful Gal! I mean who couldn't love a car that has Hips! Anyway, she deserves the best and I appreciate your information. I really want a tremac 6spd but that will have to be down the road. That's one part I can't find in a junkyard. Ya'll Take care and know that you helped make an old Fairlane into a bruiser, down in Georgia. Thank you, John
Love your knowledge of the awesome Ford engine the 351 Windsor in a 302 are really bulletproof for what they are you take it to a new level love all your videos Ford powered forever baby keep on pulling the knot out of them boties and the horns off them mopars l love it
Summit and Ford Performance has the roller conversion spider and dogbone retainer conversion for around $79. And they come with the shorter bolt so you don't get into the cam bearing. That's awesome if you do b t already have the spider setup. Thank you for the comparison video brother. Some really good info.
Love this channle .. use to have a 302 93 gt .. sold it 12 years ago .. well looking at buying another one with a 351 .. ur channles giving great info on what's involved in this swap and what to look for . Going tonight to look at the car
Been running retro fit lifter spiders in older blocks for years. We use a wide spacer that dad mills in the machine shop and we always drill and tap with the cam out and go all the way through and clean up the other side debur and polish. This can be done at home by someone with limited skill before the machine shop while the engine is completely pulled apart no cam or cam bearing installed. The trick is while the cam even original cam is still installed, put your roller lifters, your spiders and your spring plate in and line it up perfectly. Then take a drill the a size smaller of the valley spring retainer hole and get a divet started just enough you can find it after you pull everything off. I will make a future video of this when I get a chance and tag you guys in it
If you use the factory spider setup in the older blocks I believe you also have to use a reduced base circle camshaft or the lifter sits too high in the bore and does not match the oiling holes properly.
If I remember correctly the early 94 lightning didn’t have a roller block or it might of been early 93. not fully sure. I had 2 94 lightning’s and both had roller blocks. I miss those trucks. 😢 But my 20 year old son bought me 93 SSP coupe and I couldn’t be happier.I also remember back in the day the gen 1 lightnings were all speed density and finding a cam that would work with the factory computer was a bitch. A lot of the guys including me would use the factory mustang cam and that would wake the truck up a little bit given they came factory with the GT 40 heads and the GT 40 upper and lower. Of course the upper sat opposite of the mustang as the throttle body was on the right side.
From an economy standpoint I think the factory dog bones are ok. But I believe you have to be careful with the amount of lift on those as well. Also if all you have is an earlier block with a 2 piece seal , don't sweat it. Have done several of these. The machine shop can cut the back of the main cap, and you can use an SVO one piece seal...
If you get a 94 and up be sure to replace the fuel pressure regulator as they will go bad without any warning leaving you at the side of the road. I know. 😒
Ive been a Ford guy for many years and I do plan on building a 351W. I had rebuilt my very first 302 with a friend in 2016. I feel like I want to explore the world of 351W and push 800 whether I get an older or newer 351W block.
I would get the 83 and up. They have the one-piece rear main seal that is less apt to leak. I had to use the early block because of smog test regulations and the two-piece seal like to leak no matter what you do to it.
Awesome informative video for me. I'm going through the swap now. Keeping it a street engine. Want it to thump though when needed. Ìve also heard some things about the lifter bore being different between the two blocks and link bar lifters are required. This is first I've heard of the dog bones being used in a 351w. Interesting. Not saying it's wrong at all and just another resource if possible. Nice info.
Yes I had a problem with low oil pressure going from a flat tappet to a roller cam and lifters on a 351 W. Do your home work first before trying this or it could get expensive.
Awesome stuff, a ton of info. Just living through you bud, all of this interests me , just enjoy all of the differences between different generations of motors. Just being all about Fords.
We pulled a roller 351 out of a F150 that was clean as hell, found it was a Ford remanned, .40 over. We got better pistons and AFR heads, to put in my sons 89lx. The biggest issue we are facing is no Efi intakes available for reasonable price. Have you ever ran the adapter’s to allow 302 intake on 351, or any other ideas would greatly be appreciated.
Great info, can you do a indepth video of the hyperutectic,and forged pistons. I'm thinking about this 387 deal alot as a Dailey for my pickup. But want forged.
Need your help. I have an 80s 351w block that had a small base circle cam w the bone retainer. I now have a standard base circle cam and that combo does not work because the bleeder is visible on the lifter. The Howard link bar also didn’t work. What’s your solution for early block and standard base circle cam so the bleeder doesn’t pop out at full lift?
On the non roller blocks the lifter bore I shorter so the stock roller lifters stick to far out of the block, so you need a reduced base cycle cam, is the case with 351ws?
I have a 1995 f250 351w with ZF 5 speed trans, had the whole truck. Swapping it into my 1973 bronco. It ran great in the truck but had 200k miles. I am going to refresh it, send it to a machine shop at which point I thought why not stroke it, not looking for high revs just about 400hp. I want to go forged bottom end for longevity and new heads. Can I keep my stock crank and just do rods and pistons? What parts would u suggest. I also want to switch it over to a MAF, are there good after markets or should I just try and find a late 90s bronco setup. Just trying to do it reasonable and make a bullet proof off road rig.
Great info! Flat tappet is also a great budget option if you don't have a good roller cam. I was not planning on building a 351, but the one I brought to FTO did not sell - what to put it in 🤔
It has been quite awhile since the I’ve compared the two but I will say this. Drilling and tapping for the lifter hold down isn’t the answer. The lifter bore is 1/8-1/4” shorter on a non roller. Even with a stock cam the lifter is sticking out of the bore way too much. Go ahead and drop a stock lifter in with that aftermarket high lift cam you got and show us how it looks at full lift…
agreed, around here at least a roller tall deck Windsor is easy enough to nab if someone wants one BUT i own a house so buying stuff when it comes up, just to store it in a bag of WD40 until I'm ready to find a car to dump it in, is also not a problem. But I also don't mind a flat tappet camshaft with variable duration lifters and zinc'd up break in oil to make a street and strip engine package. not to mention high RPM Windsors tend to need some machining on their lifter bores to get 'em straight and true.
@@albertgaspar627That is part of the process of blue printing an engine making sure that You get everything within spec's and You can build just about anything from mild to wild depending on your budget ! Great Content , Thank You . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
@@ferdinandcuevas8457 i'd also throw in, that you can get things up to the engineer's specs (ie, blueprint) and sometimes you can decide to take things beyond that...for example, a single carb setup tends to run the outboard cylinders leaner than the inboard simply because the intake runners are longer but the camshaft timing is the same for all the intake valve openings. so if you're running, let's say stock stamped "bathtub style" rocker arms to fit a racing class, measure all of them. you'll probably find some have bigger ratios from valve tip to pushrod tip. if you use those on the outside cylinders, they are holding the outside cylinders' intake valves open a little bit longer than the inboard cylinders. will it make a noticable difference? likely not but it can combine with other tricks done while "Blueprinting" to add up performance, and its "free" in that it only costs time.
In order to do the drill and tap it is essential that you use a retro fit cam It has smaller base circles on the cam to adjust for the difference in height of the lifters between non roller block. 2 options for roller conversion, either retro fit cam and drill and tap with spider Or Regular 302/351w style cam with link bar lifters. I always found retro fit cam easier cause link bar lifters were always 3x to 4x more expensive then the cam
If you drill and tap a non roller 351w block for factory roller lifters y ou have to run a small base circle cam or it will cause catastrophic engine failure. The lifters will run to high in the bores and will starve engine for oil.
as a bracket racer i just use a flat tappet with roades lifters low cost low maintenance don t find any benefit to roller untill more than 240 duration at 50 good video
So I’m trying to make some moderate horsepower for my f250 build to tow with and just get a little bit more get up and go out of it, what would you recommend
In the process now of collecting parts to build 88 351w to 408 to put in 94 cobra. Gonna do the dog bone swap for the lifters, brodix heads with Anderson b41. Hopefully done by FTO
didnt hear you mention, that when you install a 302 cam in a 351w that you have to wire it up with the 302 firing order, and vice versa . except if its a 302HO then the firing order is the same as the 351w
My only real experience with the 351W was in the 80s VV-fed police interceptor motors and in E350 vans. Those were Border Patrol vehicles. They took a lot of abuse but I never saw one blow its self up despite 24/7 operation, high miles or questionable maintenance. Can’t say that about the bow tie cars & 4x4s with small blocks. For what it’s worth, the 302s would also take a lot of abuse.
I have a question?? Will a 94-98 v6 3.8l bellhousing fit a 351w with a T5?? Someone told me it would but I wanted to ask an expert. I had a stock 92 5.0 bellhousing somewhere but can't find it or it got stolen. And I can't find a 5.0 bellhousing anywhere without an extremely high stupid price on it. Thanks for your videos!!
I have a 4FTE 1994 lightning 351,I wanna use one of my foxbody cams,and lifters in it,Id like to reuse the stock pedistal rockers also,just curious if you know what pushrods would fit if stock would work?Thanks for all the content brother....
I have a '90 that I need to rebuild and want to add to the massive factory HP of 210. I really want to convert to rollers. I had read/seen somewhere else that the roller conversion requires a smaller base circle cam (on a flat tappet block) because the lifter bores are shorter and using a standard cam they will come up out of the hole?
2-3-400 bucks? Lol nah man these market place prices are out of control. People are fuckin high asking like 2 racks for a short block. Just gotta keep hitting the yard. Make no mistake I love the channel bro and all the killer info.
Don’t forget ford started putting roller blocks into the trucks in 93 sometime because the roller Windsor I bought that is stamped f4te came out of a 93 f250 so sometime in 93 they started swapping over. Do not ignore the 93 trucks make sure you check them out it could be a roller!
@@Neomustangs So if I don't want to do roller rockers but I want to put a letter cam in a 93' or lower engine 351w I can just put some Link Lifters & the letter cam? That's it?
I have a 93 E150 with a F4TE roller motor from factory, I’ve had the van for 23 years and it’s August 93 production date. So not all 93 truck motors are non roller.
I bought a factory roller 351 from a buddy about 10 years ago for 350 bucks, did a build with Ford Motorsport parts,put it in my 87gt, made my own distributor to use factory connector from 302 and 351 parts, bbk swap headers, tubilar k-member made so much more room too
I had a 1972 mercury montego with a 351w and my dad had a 1969 cougar with one in it. Great engines. I'd rather a 351 over a 302 any day
My Goodness... This is what I wanted to know with visuals but the other bloggers didn't touch on very well. The diff. Between 93' & down 351W vs. The 94'-97' 351W motor. Especially the cam information on roller & non roller & how to convert it to roller. Great info 👍
Thank you
@@Neomustangs No 🚫 Neo. Thank you...
He never mentioned you need a reduced base circle cam if using stock lifters or you will lose oil pressure from the lifters sitting higher out of the shorter lifter bores.
@@supersportimpalass that's if you're going to put the spider or the newer 351 engines right? If you're going for the older type lifters on the 93' down you wouldn't have to do that?
I have a 1972 351 W that I put a Lunati roller cam and roller hydraulic lifters in. Used the dog bone retainer, drilled and tapped the bolt holes for the spring to hold the dog bones. Ran fine but had very low oil pressure. Called Lunati told them about the problem and was told that what I did won't work even though the catalog said it would. Seems that it needed to use the link bar lifters to maintain oil pressure. So I used Lunati link bar hydraulic roller lifters, shorter pushrods. Got my oil pressure back and has been running fine for six years. It is always something. 🙄
that's odd. I did the same thing to my '74 Windsor and it has fine oil pressure.
I believe you need a reduced base circle camshaft for that to work properly or the lifters sit too high like you mentioned.
@@MrStroker408no he probably pinched the bearing and it restored itself after he got rid of the bolts over the bearings, why would the reduced base circle improve oil pressure
@@benjaminwatson7868because the lifter bores in roller blocks are taller. If you install stock roller lifters in a non roller block you need a reduced base circle cam to bring the lifters down in the bore.
@ the bores are taller but only by .030 from what I’ve eyeballed, the only thing I’ve really noticed that it effects is maybe the dogbones for the retainer
I watched this on my TV but got out the cellphone to post a comment. I understand that comments help your channel so, here I am!
I don't have a Mustang (Personally, I Love my Challenger!) but I am building a version of your budget stroker and want to go roller with my 1973 351W engine. I am building this to go in my 1966 Fairlane GTA 2 door hardtop. She's a beautiful Gal! I mean who couldn't love a car that has Hips! Anyway, she deserves the best and I appreciate your information. I really want a tremac 6spd but that will have to be down the road. That's one part I can't find in a junkyard.
Ya'll Take care and know that you helped make an old Fairlane into a bruiser, down in Georgia. Thank you, John
Huge 351W guy here got a 400 stroker in my 72 Gran Torino and a first gen lightning I’m building currently bone stock motor
Been busy building a 7.3 but did score a f4te 351 a week ago. Going to be going back through the 351 content.
Love your knowledge of the awesome Ford engine the 351 Windsor in a 302 are really bulletproof for what they are you take it to a new level love all your videos Ford powered forever baby keep on pulling the knot out of them boties and the horns off them mopars l love it
Thanks 👍
Summit and Ford Performance has the roller conversion spider and dogbone retainer conversion for around $79. And they come with the shorter bolt so you don't get into the cam bearing. That's awesome if you do b t already have the spider setup. Thank you for the comparison video brother. Some really good info.
Love this channle .. use to have a 302 93 gt .. sold it 12 years ago .. well looking at buying another one with a 351 .. ur channles giving great info on what's involved in this swap and what to look for . Going tonight to look at the car
Been running retro fit lifter spiders in older blocks for years. We use a wide spacer that dad mills in the machine shop and we always drill and tap with the cam out and go all the way through and clean up the other side debur and polish. This can be done at home by someone with limited skill before the machine shop while the engine is completely pulled apart no cam or cam bearing installed. The trick is while the cam even original cam is still installed, put your roller lifters, your spiders and your spring plate in and line it up perfectly. Then take a drill the a size smaller of the valley spring retainer hole and get a divet started just enough you can find it after you pull everything off. I will make a future video of this when I get a chance and tag you guys in it
Thanks!
If you use the factory spider setup in the older blocks I believe you also have to use a reduced base circle camshaft or the lifter sits too high in the bore and does not match the oiling holes properly.
Good point.
If I remember correctly the early 94 lightning didn’t have a roller block or it might of been early 93. not fully sure. I had 2 94 lightning’s and both had roller blocks. I miss those trucks. 😢 But my 20 year old son bought me 93 SSP coupe and I couldn’t be happier.I also remember back in the day the gen 1 lightnings were all speed density and finding a cam that would work with the factory computer was a bitch. A lot of the guys including me would use the factory mustang cam and that would wake the truck up a little bit given they came factory with the GT 40 heads and the GT 40 upper and lower. Of course the upper sat opposite of the mustang as the throttle body was on the right side.
Best video I’ve seen on this so far. Wish it was out 12-13 yrs back when I did this mod . Scratching my head returning parts to summit
Awesome info as always, and the follow up support/feedback in the comments is icing on the the cake.
From an economy standpoint I think the factory dog bones are ok. But I believe you have to be careful with the amount of lift on those as well. Also if all you have is an earlier block with a 2 piece seal , don't sweat it. Have done several of these. The machine shop can cut the back of the main cap, and you can use an SVO one piece seal...
Thanks for showing the difference, as I'm wanting to find another or 2-351W 's
Thanks for the great info. Building a off road Bronco it’s a 1992. But plan on using a 1994 Bronco 351W motor and trans.
If you get a 94 and up be sure to replace the fuel pressure regulator as they will go bad without any warning leaving you at the side of the road. I know. 😒
Yes sir just what I needed to know ford 💪💪.
Ive been a Ford guy for many years and I do plan on building a 351W. I had rebuilt my very first 302 with a friend in 2016. I feel like I want to explore the world of 351W and push 800 whether I get an older or newer 351W block.
I would get the 83 and up. They have the one-piece rear main seal that is less apt to leak. I had to use the early block because of smog test regulations and the two-piece seal like to leak no matter what you do to it.
Awesome informative video for me. I'm going through the swap now. Keeping it a street engine. Want it to thump though when needed. Ìve also heard some things about the lifter bore being different between the two blocks and link bar lifters are required. This is first I've heard of the dog bones being used in a 351w. Interesting. Not saying it's wrong at all and just another resource if possible. Nice info.
Thx
Yes I had a problem with low oil pressure going from a flat tappet to a roller cam and lifters on a 351 W. Do your home work first before trying this or it could get expensive.
Awesome stuff, a ton of info. Just living through you bud, all of this interests me , just enjoy all of the differences between different generations of motors. Just being all about Fords.
Right on!
Awesome, I just purchased some parts for roller conversion.
We pulled a roller 351 out of a F150 that was clean as hell, found it was a Ford remanned, .40 over. We got better pistons and AFR heads, to put in my sons 89lx. The biggest issue we are facing is no Efi intakes available for reasonable price. Have you ever ran the adapter’s to allow 302 intake on 351, or any other ideas would greatly be appreciated.
I am in the process of doing a conversion swap and can't wait thank you for the information
Good luck!
Great info, can you do a indepth video of the hyperutectic,and forged pistons. I'm thinking about this 387 deal alot as a Dailey for my pickup. But want forged.
Need your help. I have an 80s 351w block that had a small base circle cam w the bone retainer. I now have a standard base circle cam and that combo does not work because the bleeder is visible on the lifter. The Howard link bar also didn’t work. What’s your solution for early block and standard base circle cam so the bleeder doesn’t pop out at full lift?
On the non roller blocks the lifter bore I shorter so the stock roller lifters stick to far out of the block, so you need a reduced base cycle cam, is the case with 351ws?
hi, good information as always thanks
I have a 1995 f250 351w with ZF 5 speed trans, had the whole truck. Swapping it into my 1973 bronco. It ran great in the truck but had 200k miles. I am going to refresh it, send it to a machine shop at which point I thought why not stroke it, not looking for high revs just about 400hp. I want to go forged bottom end for longevity and new heads. Can I keep my stock crank and just do rods and pistons? What parts would u suggest. I also want to switch it over to a MAF, are there good after markets or should I just try and find a late 90s bronco setup. Just trying to do it reasonable and make a bullet proof off road rig.
Also considering an A9L or full aftermarket ECU, what do u run as an ECU?
Great info! Flat tappet is also a great budget option if you don't have a good roller cam. I was not planning on building a 351, but the one I brought to FTO did not sell - what to put it in 🤔
About to start a 351w build what heads / pistons do you recommend planning on using n-61 cam and supercharger.
There’s lots of good heads and pistons choices. Not much different than 302. Just remember 351 strokers have decent compression
Great content on the ford engines
It has been quite awhile since the I’ve compared the two but I will say this. Drilling and tapping for the lifter hold down isn’t the answer. The lifter bore is 1/8-1/4” shorter on a non roller. Even with a stock cam the lifter is sticking out of the bore way too much. Go ahead and drop a stock lifter in with that aftermarket high lift cam you got and show us how it looks at full lift…
agreed, around here at least a roller tall deck Windsor is easy enough to nab if someone wants one BUT i own a house so buying stuff when it comes up, just to store it in a bag of WD40 until I'm ready to find a car to dump it in, is also not a problem. But I also don't mind a flat tappet camshaft with variable duration lifters and zinc'd up break in oil to make a street and strip engine package. not to mention high RPM Windsors tend to need some machining on their lifter bores to get 'em straight and true.
@@albertgaspar627That is part of the process of blue printing an engine making sure that You get everything within spec's and You can build just about anything from mild to wild depending on your budget ! Great Content , Thank You . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
@@ferdinandcuevas8457 i'd also throw in, that you can get things up to the engineer's specs (ie, blueprint) and sometimes you can decide to take things beyond that...for example, a single carb setup tends to run the outboard cylinders leaner than the inboard simply because the intake runners are longer but the camshaft timing is the same for all the intake valve openings. so if you're running, let's say stock stamped "bathtub style" rocker arms to fit a racing class, measure all of them. you'll probably find some have bigger ratios from valve tip to pushrod tip. if you use those on the outside cylinders, they are holding the outside cylinders' intake valves open a little bit longer than the inboard cylinders.
will it make a noticable difference? likely not but it can combine with other tricks done while "Blueprinting" to add up performance, and its "free" in that it only costs time.
In order to do the drill and tap it is essential that you use a retro fit cam
It has smaller base circles on the cam to adjust for the difference in height of the lifters between non roller block.
2 options for roller conversion, either retro fit cam and drill and tap with spider
Or
Regular 302/351w style cam with link bar lifters.
I always found retro fit cam easier cause link bar lifters were always 3x to 4x more expensive then the cam
If you drill and tap a non roller 351w block for factory roller lifters y ou have to run a small base circle cam or it will cause catastrophic engine failure. The lifters will run to high in the bores and will starve engine for oil.
A lot of great information. I really want to do a swap later when I can afford it.
Cool man GL with that!
@@Neomustangs Thanks man. All the info gives me more confidence in it. Lol
as a bracket racer i just use a flat tappet with roades lifters low cost low maintenance don t find any benefit to roller untill more than 240 duration at 50 good video
What cams have you found that work good ?
Neo what bearing clearances are you running in your 351w?
2.5
keep your work Neo!
So I’m trying to make some moderate horsepower for my f250 build to tow with and just get a little bit more get up and go out of it, what would you recommend
In the process now of collecting parts to build 88 351w to 408 to put in 94 cobra. Gonna do the dog bone swap for the lifters, brodix heads with Anderson b41. Hopefully done by FTO
Awesome channel! I'm looking to upgrade my 302 2v. to a 351 NA. Are any of your stoker budget builds for sale?
No not atm. 351 is the way to go if your at that choice!?
didnt hear you mention, that when you install a 302 cam in a 351w that you have to wire it up with the 302 firing order, and vice versa . except if its a 302HO then the firing order is the same as the 351w
I wasn’t talking about flat tap it non-roller camshaft though
My only real experience with the 351W was in the 80s VV-fed police interceptor motors and in E350 vans. Those were Border Patrol vehicles. They took a lot of abuse but I never saw one blow its self up despite 24/7 operation, high miles or questionable maintenance. Can’t say that about the bow tie cars & 4x4s with small blocks. For what it’s worth, the 302s would also take a lot of abuse.
Hey thanks gives me something to think about
Neo what do you think the 351w F4 blocks will hold hp wise sbe?
The same as the F1 or.older.
Thank you so much for the advise
hey, got a question, searched the web and getting conflicting info, can i use e7 heads on an 1986 flat top piston 5.0? the original e6 heads are gone
I probably wouldnt as that motor had no valve reliefs iirc.
@@Neomustangs ok thanks
Can you change the link bar retrofit lifters with the heads still on or do you have to remove the heads?
I’m pretty sure you can just take them out
What's a safe and modest Cid for my stock 351w build ..least amount of issues ran into
I have a question?? Will a 94-98 v6 3.8l bellhousing fit a 351w with a T5?? Someone told me it would but I wanted to ask an expert. I had a stock 92 5.0 bellhousing somewhere but can't find it or it got stolen. And I can't find a 5.0 bellhousing anywhere without an extremely high stupid price on it. Thanks for your videos!!
no
Ok so what other one will fit a T5?@@Neomustangs
Thanks for the info great video!
I have a 4FTE 1994 lightning 351,I wanna use one of my foxbody cams,and lifters in it,Id like to reuse the stock pedistal rockers also,just curious if you know what pushrods would fit if stock would work?Thanks for all the content brother....
Do you know anyone that’s put the 8 pack? The Webber sets?
Spot on.
I have a '90 that I need to rebuild and want to add to the massive factory HP of 210. I really want to convert to rollers. I had read/seen somewhere else that the roller conversion requires a smaller base circle cam (on a flat tappet block) because the lifter bores are shorter and using a standard cam they will come up out of the hole?
Yes they will.
Good info brother!
Appreciate it!
@@Neomustangs are you still going to be doing the install video of the team? Z tubular radiator support?
2-3-400 bucks? Lol nah man these market place prices are out of control. People are fuckin high asking like 2 racks for a short block. Just gotta keep hitting the yard. Make no mistake I love the channel bro and all the killer info.
Yes sir thanks !
Good stuff 💪
When would you have to use a small base circle cam?
Thanks for the video.. cheers.
$ 300,000 to 600,000😮 link bar lifters 😮
What about a mexican block?
Keep up the good infob😊
A 302 can handle 500 horse max right
When tuned right it should be fine. Timing conservative, fuel good and no boost spike..
Don’t forget ford started putting roller blocks into the trucks in 93 sometime because the roller Windsor I bought that is stamped f4te came out of a 93 f250 so sometime in 93 they started swapping over. Do not ignore the 93 trucks make sure you check them out it could be a roller!
It was a late year thing yes. I had thought my 93 block i pulled from E250 there in this video would be a roller and it wasnt.
Love your content buddy keep it coming, you’re one of the main reasons I am building a Windsor in my 87 ttop gt!
@@MrLocomechanic Hell ya man! They are tough.
Absolutely brother all around great engine!
@@Neomustangs So if I don't want to do roller rockers but I want to put a letter cam in a 93' or lower engine 351w I can just put some Link Lifters & the letter cam? That's it?
3.850 stroke, 4.030 piston, equals 392.xx cubes, or a 393.
lightnings bud don't forget about them
I generally leave hard to find engines out of the equation tbh. IIRC all a lightning block is, is a 351w roller w/ GT40 heads on it. Cobra cam?
think your right I do remember them having hyper pistons