I replaced the Roto Stop cable, found that cable gap is way more than 2mm, adjusted clockwise to decrease the distance, but I have run out of adjustment on the cable, gap still way too much. What is the issue that needs repairing?
2-3mm is the preferred service limit but as long as the blade is engaging and disengaging properly, I think you're fine. I'll do some more research via shop manual if you still are having issues.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 The blade will not engage. I think I might need a brake ring, but not sure. Thanks for such a quick reply. You are great! Sorry, counterclockwise. Adjusted it so much that the stud can loose from the long adjuster. But still need more.
INSPECTION: Before inspecting brake or clutch, wear, is important to make sure the rotor stop. Cable is adjusted correctly, if any measurement is less than the service limit, replaced the driven disc and inspect the clutch spring. if the clutch spring is not within specifications, replace the clutch spring. BRAKE WEAR: With the blade control, lever released, measure the thickness of the driven disk. (11mm) thickness of driven disk. It may be necessary to remove the driven disk to accurately measure the thickness. If the measurement is less than the service limit (11mm) replaced the driven disk. CLUTCH WEAR Have an assistant engaged the rotor, stop blade, control, lever, and hold it. Use a feeler gauge to measure the distance between the brake plate and the driven disc (2mm- 0.5mm) If the measurement is less than the service limit, replace the driven disk. ~So that's straight from the repair manual. From my personal experience If the blades will not engage, I always replace the driven disk and the clutch spring~ www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJTNZZE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TJX4XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 so everything was done as said. I replaced the clutch spring (was rusted and in pieces) and the driven disk (had chunks missing on edges) when I engage the lever with the roto stop the clearance of the brake indicator is low it needs to be adjusted. But when disengaged its high and the driven disk is rubbing metal to metal. And the lawn mower won't turn off due to the cable no pushing enough on the throttle area so it just bends instead of turning it off. Honda hrr216 type engine
Perfect video Kipp, seriously! I'm working on an HRX217 with the same roto-stop system. When I go to engage the blades, the engine stalls. It doesn't matter how slowly or quickly I turn the blade on. Time to take it apart & see what's going on!
I have this same kind of Honda mower. The blades won't engage anymore, and the cable looked damaged, so I replaced it, but it still won't engage. Thanks to you, I will check the adjustments that you covered here. I had no knowledge about them until now.
Wow, you have been a HUGE help! I just picked up 2 of these mowers for chump change and I can’t wait to dig into them. I’ve worked on TONS of the old HR214 models from the ‘80s but I’ve never cracked open one of these newer Roto-Stop models. I’m told that one of them shakes like crazy (blade probably ready to fall off) and the other has had the living pee-pee beat out of it. I’m looking forward to resurrecting them and using them on my lawn, though I don’t think my SR4’s are going anywhere for a while. Thank you for the insight into the blade clutch operation sir, much appreciated!
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 so I dug into the HRR-2168VYA today. It started right up but shook like all get out! Somehow the previous owner bent the crank but the clutch / brake package is fine. Tore it all down and removed it, straightened the crankshaft out and evaluated everything. The large upper bearing and small lower bearing both sound like a roller skate on a sidewalk, guess I’ll replace those. The belt looks like the original and very worn so that should get changed out too, and of course like all Hondas all 4 tires are completely bald. Hey for removing that heavy spring on the clutch I used an old school drum brake multi-tool. It’s designed for removing and installing heavy springs like that, made the job a breeze! Anyway, did all that and tore down / polished / rebuilt the rear wheel drive system. Might go to Tractor Supply tomorrow and see if the have the bearings, else I’ll just order them. Nice mowers with a great design!
Really appreciate you explained this in a deep detail, It really helped me to diagnose a worn out driven disk. To be sincere the old one look almost the same as the new one, but measurement shown it was worn. I replace it and voila!, all good and nice. Thanks a lot
My blade fell off on the lawn. So, yes it does happen. Thanks for the detailed review. Very helpful. I think I need the "disk driven" as my blade is always engaged. I did the cable adjustment and it was fine.
Do you think I’ve diagnosed the problem correctly? The disk driven does look somewhat worn but I don’t know if the worn disk would make the blade operate all the time without the safety handle being engaged. Thanks.
Sounds like you're on the right track, If the blades are always engaged, I would check the clutch spring first then the ball plate and ball plate spring. With the blade control lever released it will allow the ball plate to move down and apply the brake. The brake plate pushes down on the driven disc and compresses the clutch spring, causing the driven disc to be released from the drive disc. The application of the brake and disengagement of the clutch causes the driven disc, blade holder, and blades to quickly stop.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 thanks... Fixed. I removed the ball plate and drive pulley then cleaned and lubricated everything. Smooth as silk now. I sharpened the blades too. But here is something interesting... Both woodroff keys were missing??? Replaced the keys at $0.40ea and good to go. I will still replace the driven drive since I had already ordered it. Keep up the great work on your videos.
Good to hear, those woodruff keys can fall out into the abyss if you're not paying attention LOL, that's weird that they were missing. I'm glad you figured it out. I believe you only need to install (1) key in the lower slot but sounds like you got this. Let me know if you have any recommendations for future videos.
You’re the first guy I’ve seen go into this much detail. Great information! I have the exact same mower. I recently had to have the belt replaced. I wonder if they went through all the care you took to measure the stuff you did. To tell you the truth, I would not buy another mower with Roto stop. It just complicates things unnecessarily in my view. 👍👍. Subscribed
Had to replace the bearing in the brake assembly. Also, replaced carburetor. Now blade slow to engage and weak. Thoughts? Everything worked fine before but had a squeal. Pulled bearing and it all but frozen.
I was trying to remove that clutch bolt but it just kept spinning I was trying to replace belt drive and access belt guard also ! Do you have a suggestion?
Soooooo... how about the complete opposite and the roto stop system isn't working and causing the blades to spin continually/all the time when the mower is turned on?
I have a 13yr old Honda mower and the blades get loose after 5min of using it. I found that the center bolt comes loose. Should I use lock tight on the center screw or could it be worse than that? What do you recommend?
First call Honda customer support or contact a certified small engine repair shop because that sounds dangerous! Yes, you can use Loctite "blue" if needed but I would invest in a torque wrench and tighten down both blade bolts to Hondas torque specs, different models will vary but most Hondas are 36-43 ft-lb. If you are installing both blade bolts to Hondas recommendations and specs and still having the same issue, there's something else going on. I would check the condition of the threads on both bolts along with the threads inside the crank shaft and blade adaptor, also check the tip of the crank shaft with a dial-indicator to rule out a bent crank shaft.
Ok, it was a feature I was very interested in. But not any more, not worth the trouble. I'll just move the item on the lawn and restart the mower. Could use the exercise anyway.
Does buying the roto-stop system, vs the same mower without roto-stop significantly increase future maintenance? It seems that roto-stop adds to items that will wear out eventually. Also, the roto-stop reduce in any way power to the blades?
Great question John Yes because the blade stop system includes more moving parts which leads to more wear items, repairs can be pretty expensive IF! it requires going to a dealership and or a small engine repair shop. For example, I acquired this HRR lawnmower for free because a co-worker's father somehow made the blades fall off when operating the lawnmower??? his exact words were " I heard a loud clunk and the blades fell off" and he didn't even bother going to get an estimate for the repairs, he ended up buying a new Honda HRN w/ blade stop the next day. After inspecting the mower, I didn't find any evidence of impact to the blades or crankshaft, it just looked like the blade holder bolt wasn't tightened down properly. The blade stop system as a whole looked great. Over the years I've come to notice that Honda along with TORO make above average outdoor power equipment. The clutch system on the Honda in pretty simple. The only thing I've seen wear out the fastest is the driven disc, it's no different than the brake pads on your vehicle. As far as the power to the blades there's no difference, I believe it cuts cleaner than my new HRN lawnmower. Before owning this style of lawnmower, I was never interested in any mower that offered a "blade stop" system I thought it was pointless, but I was wrong and now I absolutely love it! I spent more money restoring the suspension, having to buy 4 new wheels and the rear hub axle bushings were so worn out the tires were at a 45-degree angle. As long as you're willing to spend the time and effort to perform your own maintenance and repairs and regular deck cleaning, cost won't be a problem. It's pretty much cave man technology LOL. Thanks for the comment and your time.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 thanks, I have a toro 2333 190cc 6.75 ft/lbs mower, it's somewhere over 12 years old. Their blade stop system uses a belt which will wear out. Now admittedly it took ~9 years to stop working, but it was deceptive because the blade would spin and cut very light grass, but anything more and the blade would keep slipping, Last year I bought and replaced the belt, but the new belt had a problem in 1 year. My guess, it wasn't a toro belt, likely a cheaper knockoff. So I recently bought a genuine toro belt, so far it's working well, but it's only been a few months. (Hard to remember if it's like new.) I was thinking of getting this honda HRX 201-cc mower as it's at least 30 more torque. The engine size is only a little bigger, but the Engine Torque is 9.0 vs 6.75, and the toro is 22" vs 21" blade for the honda, providing more cutting power. I don't always get to cutting the lawn on a timely basis, and if it's wet or too high, I would like more power to get the job down faster. I was debating between getting the blade stop Vs no blade stop on the same mower. I nearly always do my own maintenance on everything, but I like to do as little maintenance as possible.
I haven't come across a Toro with a blade stop system yet, but I would love to see how it works. I also own a Toro walk behind lawn mower and its hands down the best overall value along with great customer service available on the market, plus they offer the purchase of online parts directly from the manufacture! when Honda allows you to make an online "wish list" then refers you to a local certified dealer to purchase, working for automotive dealership for 20+ years, O.E.M. parts are very important to me. The funny thing is my Toro is the smallest engine in my fleet @ 159cc but she packs a punch! I used to own a Honda HRX217 and here's my 2 cents, keep in mind that I'm a lawn mower snob, I wasn't impressed, and I believe it was a little over engineered to my liking, I know it sounds bad but for $600 I think you can get the same quality, cut and performance with the cheaper HRN216 model. That being said, tall or wet grass was no match for that twin blade cutting system, I can't recall it ever bogging down or struggling under a heavy load plus the "Nexite" lifetime warranty deck is nice security blanket. I ended up selling it to a co-worker that absolutely loves it to this day. The blade stop feature is not a deal breaker for me but it's definitely a perk. I recommend checking out Toros new super recycler they look sick! and they offer a cast-aluminum desk which I haven't seen since the 2-storke Lawn-Boy days.
What would cause the clutch to "knock" when dis engaged mine does iv greased the bearing and everything else looks great the sound is most heared at low throttle with the blade not spinning
Good question Jayson, unfortunately I’m unable to diagnose via text, but I would check the following listed below first. -Stale fuel -Clogged air filter -Clogged fuel strainer -Wet spark plug -Weak or No spark -Choke partially open -Clogged spark arrester -Compression is above 80psi -Compression is too low
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 yep I did all that I even did a compression test after about four to five pulls it goes to 90 and stops I was thinking a carburetor issue but I haven't got any further with it thanks for the info
Good question Jose, first I would check and make sure the brake cable is operating properly. Make sure the tension/resistance when you pull the control cable back. Second, I would check the clarence between the brake plate and the driven disk. Lastly make sure the keyway for the drive disk is install correctly, there's two slots where the keyway sits on the crank shaft you want to make sure it's in the lower/bottom slot. Thanks for watching and keep me posted Mr. Martinez.
If you’re restricted to hand tools, take the flywheel cover off and have someone hold the top crank bolt, I think it’s a 18 or 19mm and at the same time remove the bottom crank bolt “blade holder bolt” 14mm.
I replaced the Roto Stop cable, found that cable gap is way more than 2mm, adjusted clockwise to decrease the distance, but I have run out of adjustment on the cable, gap still way too much. What is the issue that needs repairing?
2-3mm is the preferred service limit but as long as the blade is engaging and disengaging properly, I think you're fine. I'll do some more research via shop manual if you still are having issues.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 The blade will not engage. I think I might need a brake ring, but not sure.
Thanks for such a quick reply.
You are great! Sorry, counterclockwise. Adjusted it so much that the stud can loose from the long adjuster. But still need more.
INSPECTION:
Before inspecting brake or clutch, wear, is important to make sure the rotor stop. Cable is adjusted correctly, if any measurement is less than the service limit, replaced the driven disc and inspect the clutch spring. if the clutch spring is not within specifications, replace the clutch spring.
BRAKE WEAR:
With the blade control, lever released, measure the thickness of the driven disk. (11mm) thickness of driven disk. It may be necessary to remove the driven disk to accurately measure the thickness.
If the measurement is less than the service limit (11mm) replaced the driven disk.
CLUTCH WEAR
Have an assistant engaged the rotor, stop blade, control, lever, and hold it.
Use a feeler gauge to measure the distance between the brake plate and the driven disc (2mm- 0.5mm)
If the measurement is less than the service limit, replace the driven disk.
~So that's straight from the repair manual. From my personal experience If the blades will not engage, I always replace the driven disk and the clutch spring~
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJTNZZE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TJX4XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you very much!
I really appreciate your help.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 so everything was done as said. I replaced the clutch spring (was rusted and in pieces) and the driven disk (had chunks missing on edges) when I engage the lever with the roto stop the clearance of the brake indicator is low it needs to be adjusted. But when disengaged its high and the driven disk is rubbing metal to metal. And the lawn mower won't turn off due to the cable no pushing enough on the throttle area so it just bends instead of turning it off. Honda hrr216 type engine
Perfect video Kipp, seriously! I'm working on an HRX217 with the same roto-stop system. When I go to engage the blades, the engine stalls. It doesn't matter how slowly or quickly I turn the blade on. Time to take it apart & see what's going on!
Thanks bud
I have this same kind of Honda mower. The blades won't engage anymore, and the cable looked damaged, so I replaced it, but it still won't engage. Thanks to you, I will check the adjustments that you covered here. I had no knowledge about them until now.
Wow, you have been a HUGE help! I just picked up 2 of these mowers for chump change and I can’t wait to dig into them. I’ve worked on TONS of the old HR214 models from the ‘80s but I’ve never cracked open one of these newer Roto-Stop models. I’m told that one of them shakes like crazy (blade probably ready to fall off) and the other has had the living pee-pee beat out of it. I’m looking forward to resurrecting them and using them on my lawn, though I don’t think my SR4’s are going anywhere for a while. Thank you for the insight into the blade clutch operation sir, much appreciated!
Absolutely! Keep me posted on restore/rebuild.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 so I dug into the HRR-2168VYA today. It started right up but shook like all get out! Somehow the previous owner bent the crank but the clutch / brake package is fine. Tore it all down and removed it, straightened the crankshaft out and evaluated everything. The large upper bearing and small lower bearing both sound like a roller skate on a sidewalk, guess I’ll replace those. The belt looks like the original and very worn so that should get changed out too, and of course like all Hondas all 4 tires are completely bald. Hey for removing that heavy spring on the clutch I used an old school drum brake multi-tool. It’s designed for removing and installing heavy springs like that, made the job a breeze!
Anyway, did all that and tore down / polished / rebuilt the rear wheel drive system. Might go to Tractor Supply tomorrow and see if the have the bearings, else I’ll just order them. Nice mowers with a great design!
Really appreciate you explained this in a deep detail, It really helped me to diagnose a worn out driven disk. To be sincere the old one look almost the same as the new one, but measurement shown it was worn. I replace it and voila!, all good and nice. Thanks a lot
My blade fell off on the lawn. So, yes it does happen. Thanks for the detailed review. Very helpful.
I think I need the "disk driven" as my blade is always engaged. I did the cable adjustment and it was fine.
Do you think I’ve diagnosed the problem correctly? The disk driven does look somewhat worn but I don’t know if the worn disk would make the blade operate all the time without the safety handle being engaged. Thanks.
Sounds like you're on the right track, If the blades are always engaged, I would check the clutch spring first then the ball plate and ball plate spring. With the blade control lever released it will allow the ball plate to move down and apply the brake. The brake plate pushes down on the driven disc and compresses the clutch spring, causing the driven disc to be released from the drive disc. The application of the brake and disengagement of the clutch causes the driven disc, blade holder, and blades to quickly stop.
* Defective brake plate return spring
*Brake lining excessively worn
* Roto-Stop cable too tight or seized
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 thanks... Fixed. I removed the ball plate and drive pulley then cleaned and lubricated everything. Smooth as silk now. I sharpened the blades too. But here is something interesting... Both woodroff keys were missing??? Replaced the keys at $0.40ea and good to go. I will still replace the driven drive since I had already ordered it. Keep up the great work on your videos.
Good to hear, those woodruff keys can fall out into the abyss if you're not paying attention LOL, that's weird that they were missing. I'm glad you figured it out. I believe you only need to install (1) key in the lower slot but sounds like you got this. Let me know if you have any recommendations for future videos.
You’re the first guy I’ve seen go into this much detail. Great information! I have the exact same mower. I recently had to have the belt replaced. I wonder if they went through all the care you took to measure the stuff you did. To tell you the truth, I would not buy another mower with Roto stop. It just complicates things unnecessarily in my view. 👍👍. Subscribed
Thank you so much that’s mean a lot to me.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 hello
Great videos! Very informative! Great guy! Keep the content coming please and thank you!
Had to replace the bearing in the brake assembly. Also, replaced carburetor. Now blade slow to engage and weak. Thoughts? Everything worked fine before but had a squeal. Pulled bearing and it all but frozen.
Awesome video and description, nice work!
Thank you thank you Mr Erickson!
I was trying to remove that clutch bolt but it just kept spinning I was trying to replace belt drive and access belt guard also ! Do you have a suggestion?
Nice. How do you remove/replace the upper bearing?
Soooooo... how about the complete opposite and the roto stop system isn't working and causing the blades to spin continually/all the time when the mower is turned on?
I’m in the same boat. Did you ever figure out why?
@@jareddevore9051 the bearings in the "Plate ball control" part took a crap. Replace the whole unit and you'll be good to go.
Fantastic video. Thanks!
Thank you
Great video
Thanks for your support!
I have a 13yr old Honda mower and the blades get loose after 5min of using it. I found that the center bolt comes loose. Should I use lock tight on the center screw or could it be worse than that? What do you recommend?
First call Honda customer support or contact a certified small engine repair shop because that sounds dangerous! Yes, you can use Loctite "blue" if needed but I would invest in a torque wrench and tighten down both blade bolts to Hondas torque specs, different models will vary but most Hondas are 36-43 ft-lb. If you are installing both blade bolts to Hondas recommendations and specs and still having the same issue, there's something else going on. I would check the condition of the threads on both bolts along with the threads inside the crank shaft and blade adaptor, also check the tip of the crank shaft with a dial-indicator to rule out a bent crank shaft.
Ok, it was a feature I was very interested in. But not any more, not worth the trouble. I'll just move the item on the lawn and restart the mower. Could use the exercise anyway.
I agree I never understood why not just restart the lawn mower or tie the handle down
Does buying the roto-stop system, vs the same mower without roto-stop significantly increase future maintenance? It seems that roto-stop adds to items that will wear out eventually. Also, the roto-stop reduce in any way power to the blades?
Great question John Yes because the blade stop system includes more moving parts which leads to more wear items, repairs can be pretty expensive IF! it requires going to a dealership and or a small engine repair shop. For example, I acquired this HRR lawnmower for free because a co-worker's father somehow made the blades fall off when operating the lawnmower??? his exact words were " I heard a loud clunk and the blades fell off" and he didn't even bother going to get an estimate for the repairs, he ended up buying a new Honda HRN w/ blade stop the next day. After inspecting the mower, I didn't find any evidence of impact to the blades or crankshaft, it just looked like the blade holder bolt wasn't tightened down properly. The blade stop system as a whole looked great. Over the years I've come to notice that Honda along with TORO make above average outdoor power equipment. The clutch system on the Honda in pretty simple. The only thing I've seen wear out the fastest is the driven disc, it's no different than the brake pads on your vehicle. As far as the power to the blades there's no difference, I believe it cuts cleaner than my new HRN lawnmower. Before owning this style of lawnmower, I was never interested in any mower that offered a "blade stop" system I thought it was pointless, but I was wrong and now I absolutely love it! I spent more money restoring the suspension, having to buy 4 new wheels and the rear hub axle bushings were so worn out the tires were at a 45-degree angle. As long as you're willing to spend the time and effort to perform your own maintenance and repairs and regular deck cleaning, cost won't be a problem. It's pretty much cave man technology LOL. Thanks for the comment and your time.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 thanks, I have a toro 2333 190cc 6.75 ft/lbs mower, it's somewhere over 12 years old. Their blade stop system uses a belt which will wear out. Now admittedly it took ~9 years to stop working, but it was deceptive because the blade would spin and cut very light grass, but anything more and the blade would keep slipping, Last year I bought and replaced the belt, but the new belt had a problem in 1 year. My guess, it wasn't a toro belt, likely a cheaper knockoff. So I recently bought a genuine toro belt, so far it's working well, but it's only been a few months. (Hard to remember if it's like new.) I was thinking of getting this honda HRX 201-cc mower as it's at least 30 more torque. The engine size is only a little bigger, but the Engine Torque is 9.0 vs 6.75, and the toro is 22" vs 21" blade for the honda, providing more cutting power. I don't always get to cutting the lawn on a timely basis, and if it's wet or too high, I would like more power to get the job down faster. I was debating between getting the blade stop Vs no blade stop on the same mower. I nearly always do my own maintenance on everything, but I like to do as little maintenance as possible.
I haven't come across a Toro with a blade stop system yet, but I would love to see how it works. I also own a Toro walk behind lawn mower and its hands down the best overall value along with great customer service available on the market, plus they offer the purchase of online parts directly from the manufacture! when Honda allows you to make an online "wish list" then refers you to a local certified dealer to purchase, working for automotive dealership for 20+ years, O.E.M. parts are very important to me. The funny thing is my Toro is the smallest engine in my fleet @ 159cc but she packs a punch! I used to own a Honda HRX217 and here's my 2 cents, keep in mind that I'm a lawn mower snob, I wasn't impressed, and I believe it was a little over engineered to my liking, I know it sounds bad but for $600 I think you can get the same quality, cut and performance with the cheaper HRN216 model. That being said, tall or wet grass was no match for that twin blade cutting system, I can't recall it ever bogging down or struggling under a heavy load plus the "Nexite" lifetime warranty deck is nice security blanket. I ended up selling it to a co-worker that absolutely loves it to this day. The blade stop feature is not a deal breaker for me but it's definitely a perk. I recommend checking out Toros new super recycler they look sick! and they offer a cast-aluminum desk which I haven't seen since the 2-storke Lawn-Boy days.
What would cause the clutch to "knock" when dis engaged mine does iv greased the bearing and everything else looks great the sound is most heared at low throttle with the blade not spinning
Great Job!
when i try to take off the bolt that holds the clutch on it spins the shaft how do i remove it?
You can use sandpaper and re-surface the back of that cluch.
Yooo what up kipp! i see you!
ps i love my HRX, keep up the great content
Thanks Brother love your videos!
Where is your shop
This video was taken in my old house LOL thanks for watching
How do I get my guard off to replace belt?
You bring up a good question, I’ll have to make another video for that. There’s just to much detail to show via text message.
th-cam.com/video/LLBZ3FpqL8s/w-d-xo.html
What would cause the Honda hrn216 too backfire out of the carburetor not starting at all just backfires
Good question Jayson, unfortunately I’m unable to diagnose via text, but I would check the following listed below first.
-Stale fuel
-Clogged air filter
-Clogged fuel strainer
-Wet spark plug
-Weak or No spark
-Choke partially open
-Clogged spark arrester
-Compression is above 80psi
-Compression is too low
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 yep I did all that I even did a compression test after about four to five pulls it goes to 90 and stops I was thinking a carburetor issue but I haven't got any further with it thanks for the info
Hello, I have a Honda lawnmower HRR216-3VXA it starts but the blades won’t engage. Do you know what it can be ?
Good question Jose, first I would check and make sure the brake cable is operating properly. Make sure the tension/resistance when you pull the control cable back. Second, I would check the clarence between the brake plate and the driven disk. Lastly make sure the keyway for the drive disk is install correctly, there's two slots where the keyway sits on the crank shaft you want to make sure it's in the lower/bottom slot. Thanks for watching and keep me posted Mr. Martinez.
I have the same model. Mine will engage, but will not stay engaged, any additional thoughts sir? BTW thank you for the great video!
You did not show how to remove that clutch my bolt just keeps spinning why?
I just use a cordless impact
If you’re restricted to hand tools, take the flywheel cover off and have someone hold the top crank bolt, I think it’s a 18 or 19mm and at the same time remove the bottom crank bolt “blade holder bolt” 14mm.
Sorry Tony I had to reupload my video here's the new link hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/LLBZ3FpqL8s/w-d-xo.html
Whose lawn mower are you repairing
It’s mine now previous owner gave it to me for free.
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 Happy New Year 🎆🎊
@@dadsworkshopbykipplabrie7982 Happy New Year 🎊🎆
I put that blade bolt on with my torq wrench! Shes tight!
Good machine
A new Honda 21 inch mower at Home Depot is now 550.00 plus tax.
The bearings are sealed. Not hard to replace.
Great observation
I sure hope my new blades dont come off! Someone could get killed!
Right!!!
【from HIPA】Would you like to test my accessories for your equipment?thanks
He is clueless.
I'm just a doctor.........