Fiat 500e - Teardown - episode #2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- In this episode of Teardown. We focus on complete front end powertrain removal. Lot's of interesting findings. Watch to find out more...
Future episodes:
episode #3 - Complete Interior removal.
episode #4 - How to dispose of a body.
episode # ? - Detailed Teardowns of key components.
episode # ? - Reconstruction & Bench testing of key linked systems.
episode # ? - Over clocking of the motor for more power.
episode # ? - Complete HV Battery Teardown.
This is great, and thank you shooting this and sharing it! I have a 2015 500e that I have modified a bit, and I hope to do some more serious modifications in time.
Can you open up the battery pack and identify all the components?
Fascinating, thank you for sharing.
How much was the parts car ?
Great videos! I have a quick question, where does the charging port cable connect at the other end, and how many connections are there? Is that the furthest right (passenger side) connector under the hood, where you show 3 connections and one is already disconnected? I might have to replace mine...
Yes, that is correct. It's fairly easy to get to. But, lot's of nylon tie wraps holding it in along the whole length. Can't imagine why you would need to replace the cable. I know rodents will eat some odd stuff on cars, like gasoline hose on an ICE car.
@@theevolvingworld Because the orange plastic housing that holds everything in place under the "fuel" door is completely broken, and Fiat does not sell the housing separately. You must purchase the whole cable and housing assembly for ~$1000US, and the dealer wants another $2000 for labor to replace it.
Wow, that's crazy rip off prices. I've just looked at my salvaged part and it does seem to need to be a whole unit. But, it's plug & play. I could do it for $500 labor.
So, who smashed your charger port? Let me guess a lifted pickup truck driver who likes to "roll coal". I've noticed more and more ICE'd conditions at charging stations, lately. Quite intentional as if looking for a fight. It might get "war like" for the next 3- 5 years.
@theevolvingworld I'm looking to replace the charge port harness on a 500e due to a broken pin. Is the harness able to be replaced without dropping the battery pack or is it tucked up above the pack and secured with nylon tie wraps?
Yep! the full size radiator is for the inverter, and the small one is for the battery - I never knew about the AC heat exhanger though -- that must only be used in ambient temperatures exceeding 110*F
Thanks for posting these teardowns, fascinating to see whats under the skin of the 500e!
How are you planning to maintain the VR signals from the ABS sensors, YAW sensor, steering angle, etc to keep regenerative braking working in the project chassis?
Are you planning to swap to the newer, larger capacity Samsung SDI cells from the later model i3?
Over engineered battery cooling or perhaps setup for fast charging.
The electric power brake system (featuring: ABS, ESC, & regen braking) will be transferring over to the conversion. The elec. steering, A/C, & liquid battery cooling/heating will not.
One of the future goals for my 500e is that.
Motor mounts are to decrease road noise.
Did you ever inspect the splines between the motor and gearbox? I saw an owner report total spline stripping on the PTO output&input. The splines looked completely dry and rusty.
It was operable to get it in the shop. No, never separated the Motor from the e gear transmission. One axle was bent.
I've been pining for a 500e for years, would you trust buying one off-lease from any dealer? Any "red flags" in particular to look for when buying one used? I got the code reader and app...afraid a dealer would baulk at me using it though!
Mary Lou Well it’s super easy access for the code reader, the port is right at the driver’s left leg, so it wouldn’t take much to check it. I bought one last year and love the little thing. I live in Austin so it’s a small city and so it’s a perfect city car, getting out on the highway you are going to see that range dip a bit hard with long highway speeds doing 65 - 70. It’s a fun car it pulls harder than you’d expect, so you feel confident with lane changes. I haven’t had a single issue with it so far.
Mary Lou It’s the best car I have ever owned. I got it with 16k miles and put on 10k in one year. I have had zero problems. Only had to replace wipers and air cabin filter 👍
Buying "off lease" is the ONLY way to buy! Avoid the 2013's, they seem a little buggy. My 2/2014 build car has been bulletproof. Just as reliable as any Infiniti or Lexus with no maintenance & lot's of free charging. If a dealer doesn't allow you scan the car, then they are not a respectable dealer. Walk & leave negative feedback on yelp. Ciao.
@The Evolving World
When you pulled the CV axles, did any fluid come out?
I am looking at replacing my passenger side CV axle, and was wondering if I would need to buy any fluid.
They are sealed axles on the transmission side. So, no fluid, no mess, just eight bolts per side. Ciao.
Soooo great!
Thanks for all of the great info...would it be possible to strip a 500e down to the bare motor and use it to power a reverse trike? I know I would have to come up with many different systems, but is it possible? Thanks!
Your going to have to figure out how to control it. But, basically a motor is motor and this is no different. I still have my complete powertrain from the 500e, awaiting a use. Happy building!
Yes. I am doing something similar, I am using a 500e motor to power a FL350. But you need VOLTS. I am going to run 230 which is going to be a bit low, I would not go below 150V.
Hey thanks man this is awesome. I bought a used 2016 and I have a rattle in the right front the dealer can't seem to fix. They replaced all the front end parts struts, bushings but there is still a rattle. I am hoping to learn what it might be by your videos!
No rattles on mine. There is a squeak right at the safety belt latch. Fix is to pull it snug & up. That and the summertime high noon glare on the IP. Otherwise, it's Japanese like quality to me.
@@theevolvingworld My rattle is outside b the Passengers side headlamp. I clamped the water bottle and that helped a little. THe dealer cant find it after replacing most of the front end. It's scrunches when I go over a speed bump slowly. THey gave me brand new struts and oiled the bushings but there's still a devil in the weeds!!!
You know, the "APWS" a.k.a. noisemaker speaker is right at that location, just below the water bottle. If you put power to it, it makes a static squeaky sound. I did a modified episode on removing it.
I would like to see the inside of the transmission. Trying to put a drain plug .
where did you end up putting the motor? I was eyeing swapping the 500e motor into a 86 Honda CRX. (funny story, picked up a 500e that was so clean my wife won't let me gut it.)
Hi, Thank you for taking the time and effort to film all you work, its really helpful! I have a 2014 500E and I'm in need of the fuses inside the Power Control Module visible at 4:15 to 4:19 in this video (episode 2 of the teardown series). Is that something you still have? Thank you, John
Thanks, I'm glad you found the vids useful. Most parts are either: reused, sold, or gone. If you have a '13.5 or an early '14, there was a recall for faulty PIM's. If so, you should be able to that replaced for free.
@@theevolvingworld Thanks for the reply. The dealer has performed all the recall work. The problem is the heater doesn’t work. Fan and AC work, just not the heater. Dealer gave me the code and part number. It’s the Power Distribution Module (68105117AD or 68105117AA) visible at time stamp 3:14 to 3:17 right side of frame in episode 2 of the teardown. Inside are two fuses and one was blown. The fuses are not off the shelf. I can send pics, but sounds like you may have let it go. Dealer wants $815.00 plus labor and it’s just a blown fuse! 10mm by 38mm 30 amp 500 vdc. But it’s a two pole fuse and made to fit the housing with soldered/brazed tabs. I’ll be able to come up with a work around with different fuses, but using the right fuses is easier.
Your fuses, of course, might also be blown but wanted to reach out.
Thank you again for the help.
@@JohnFryer We may be talking about different things here. 68105117AD is not the PIM, it's the Power Distribution Module as you worded differently this time. I think I still have that. I also have a working interior cabin heater & the HV battery liquid heater. I'll check my inventory. The later episodes show all of these parts in more detail. Attach a email here & I'll contact you directly.
PS - the last letter of the part (all else being equal) is the version. "A" is 1st version. "B" is the revised part in it's 2nd version (if needed) "C"=3rd "D"=4th etc. etc. Some parts never needed revisions thru 2019, while others were on "F" by 2015. Later revised parts should be better.
Thank you very much for doing this! Looks like some really nice engineering in the little FIAT. Quick question for you sir. I am going to be acquiring a used 500e in a month or so and wanted to run a "scan tool" during pre-purchase inspection. Would you be so kind to share where to get the scanner like you showed in Episode #1? Thank you!
I've done a video on this, here's the link: th-cam.com/video/F7jGrNBz6Bg/w-d-xo.html
Got a question. Is there a fuse to the charging system? Just wondering because I have spliced in my new inlet and I have my new plug installed on my EVSE and I still get the same dialog to service the charging system. Im wondering if it may have blown a fuse because of the burnt pins just prior to it no longer charging. I have looked through the manual and found no indication that there is a fuse directly relating to the charging system that could cause this issue. It was pouring down rain yesterday and the nose of my car is not under cover. I will look at fuses today to see if any are blown since the rain has stopped for now. Otherwise Im looking at hunting down a new charge cable and charger. Or a used one from a wrecked one.
Well first, it's a still a little baffling that you burnt out a pin on the charging connector. That suggests that too much current was passing thru (even though the charger should limit it to 6.6 kWh). Kinda like when I put euro 55/100 headlight bulbs in an older car that had US spec wiring for 45/65. They worked... until the connector melted.
It might be more than just the cable! There's no hidden inline fuse, if that's what your asking. I would check all the fuses & relays at the three locations. The two under the hood & the one under the dash. Also scan with AlfaOBD to see what it shows.
@@theevolvingworld Bummer AlphaOBD is Android not iPhone.
@@onegreenev It's also windows PC. I thought Apple products can open windows programs. Or, maybe buy a cheap basic Android pad or phone & use it for just such occasions. Ciao.
@@theevolvingworld That might work because I do have Windows 10 on my MacBook.
Can you replace the pins on the charging plug? The one on the left broke earlier this month.
A couple of people who commented had a similar problem. You can buy a generic J1772 socket, install it in place of the old one & splice in the wires or add to and splice. You could buy a factory replacement which would include the cord, which goes all the way to the charger in the front of the car, but that's going to be big bucks. Might be able to rebuild it with new pins. Search for "J1772"
The Evolving World Have not been able to locate at pin yet.
This is so awesome! Do you think there will be an onboard charger replacement to decrease charging times one day? The coolant system seems robust enough to keep the battery packs temperature regulated while it chargers faster.
I think the series one car "is what it is" & it's done. The next gen all new car should be more properly EV from the start. Unless, FCA pulls a "Nissan LEAF" on us (same old car with new skin). The battery pack is setup for fast charging. It was deleted just before production to keep costs down.
The 500e was actually designed for SAE CCS fast charging, but in cost cutting measures, FCA omitted the fast charging parts.
th-cam.com/video/5XT7quHVCGQ/w-d-xo.html
Also, is there a long half shaft and a short one? Or are they the same length?
Each side is a different length. Search for the Abarth half-shafts or salvage 500e half-shafts.
@@theevolvingworld do you remember which side was longer?
Sort of sad to see you did not repaired this car.
Was hoping to see what it took to take off the charge port terminal. Guess its not too difficult. Going to splice in a new one for my Beastie. Mine ended up toasting a pin on both the inlet port and the J1772 plug. So instead of buying the whole inlet and cable I'll just use my aluminum 70amp inlet to replace the stock plastic junk. I'll do a video of mine.
It's pretty easy access. Can't imagine what toasted the charging connector? Looking forward to the video! Ciao.
@@theevolvingworld My level 2 charge cord is rated for up to 60 amps. Im thinking it is just related to a not so good connection and a high output level 2. Could have gotten wet and we do charge at stations in town on occasion. I'll be swapping out for an aluminum charge port rated at 70amps and will just splice it into the original cable. I'll be starting this tomorrow morning.
@@onegreenev I think more manufacturers need to realize the benefits of higher speed Level 2 charging! The Fiat 500e max out at 6.6 kWh which is about 27.5 amps. BMW i3 & e-golf is like 7.2 kWh which is 30 amps. And just that little bit of speed makes a difference. 60 amps is like 14.4 kWh and that would be great! Twice as fast, but not level 3 (50-150 kWh) frying speeds. I can assure you one thing, this car's charging wires are for under 30 amps max.
Well I hope you get it all sorted out. If you figure out a way to increase the level 2 charging speed up a bit without freaking out the CPU & CANbus systems, please do share!
I do not intend to change the charge rate. I opted for the 70 amp version so I know it can handle what is coming in. My EVSE can handle up to 60 amps continuous output which is way higher output than the stock charger in the vehicle. I just wanted to know that the socket and plug would not burn out on me over time. I spliced in the new inlet socket with the proper connections and I still get the notification to service the charging system. I did a video of my EVSE and it recognizes that the car is plugged in and showed no errors on the side of the EVSE. Im afraid the problem lies elsewhere. My original plug and inlet socket had a burned pin and then it just quit charging. It would not work with the free charger we use in town and won’t work with mine. Figured it was because of the burnt pin. The wires don’t look like they overheated or were burned in any way. Just on set of pins were burnt.
If I do go for faster charging it will only be with fast DC charging.
th-cam.com/video/GZKCaL02weE/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/N9NzD8H9Zdo/w-d-xo.html@@theevolvingworld
@@theevolvingworld I'll put up a video of taking the socket out. I'll video putting it all back together too. I was not getting it to charge after making sure all was correct. I then set out to check fuses today. All the fuses in the car are good to go. I then decided to take the charger plug cover off and remove the charge plug to the charger socket. Damn thing is difficult and even busted a tiny piece. It still locks in place so it's not coming off. I wanted to see if there was any visible damage but I saw none. So I reconnected it and then decided since I had removed fuses maybe it was just a piss poor connection. So I plugged it back in and it is now charging. My wife said maybe taking off the plug then putting it back on reset the charger. Could be but if you ever run into that issue a good place to start is to replace the charge inlet socket then unplug from the charger then plug it back in. Might just be what it needed. But regardless, Im back up and running. I'll post my link as soon as Im done.
Can you post a photo of the BPCM and the high voltage contactor that is inside the battery pack?
We'll be doing a complete HV battery Teardown in a future episode.
I bought a motor tranny assy. I am trying to find the half shafts, but when I look them up, it looks like they are missing the part that bolts to the tranny. Can you show some pics/vids of the cv half shafts, and any idea if the ICE car uses the same half shafts? THanks Eric
Figured out the ICE car uses different half shafts, but I think the ICE car uses the same spindles.
There are just bolts anchoring each half shaft to the e-trans. They are accessible from each side looking towards the e-trans. I don't have the powertrain anymore. I do still have the axle to trans. bolts (forgot to include them with the sale).
Various sources seem to indicate they used the same half-shafts from the Abarth version, to be able to handle the power. Find a pair of them & cut'em off and weld to the host vehicles other cut-off half-shafts should work. At least that's the concept.
As others have said would you film the battery pack coming apart?
We'll be doing a complete HV battery Teardown in a future episode.
@@theevolvingworld Awesome! Thank you. Considering making an extended range trail for my 500e. Tear down would be a big help.
Why do you keep saying "This is ridiculous."? The car has good thermal management. The car has the structures needed to support the drivetrain and pass crash tests. None of this is ridiculous. I see good engineering. Had the control arm not broken (not cracked) the car would still drive. Roll the Cappuccino as this 500e did and see how it fares.
P.S. The "can" attached to the brake hydraulic distribution block is the ABS pump. I'm shaking my head at the basic car components you can't identify.
Transfer all the components into a factory 5 818 kit car www.factoryfive.com/818/
EV west has all the parts www.hpevs.com/ev-west-factory-five-with-hpevs-ac-electric-dual-motor.htm
That's not a bad ideal. I've already considered it. I spend too much time on Bring-A-Trailer looking at cool potential conversion to EV cars. So many choices!
where did you end up putting the motor? I was eyeing swapping the 500e motor into a 86 Honda CRX. (funny story, picked up a 500e that was so clean my wife won't let me gut it.)
It's in progress right now. I will have a complete series of videos on the whole process... after I'm done. Hopefully, this Spring.
'86 CRX sounds great! Hopefully, no rust issues. My first car was almost a 85-86 CRX. We never could find the right 5 speed Si version. Got something else. Now they are great classics.
@@theevolvingworld if you're bored, my build over the last 10 years is here:
crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=15743