Superb breakdown of materials and what puts this above other, its followin a question a viewer would ask, pro/Cons/suitably to individual needs and a breakdown of why/why not
Ive gotta daily mine so i built mine out of a multi layer sheet of wood that i drilled holes thru and then covered with fiberglass and resin and then made a mount to the frame and its been great at taking a beating.
I'm going to make my undertray using this method, thank you for the insight. I've made my prototype out of plywood but that's not holding up too well on the edges
If I was making this again I think I'd probably use TWO layers of 600 Double Bias fiberglass cloth, and put a layer of 3mm coretex mat in between then - just on the flat parts. I know from having made a previous one that, although floppy on it's own, the splitter firms up and functions well at 220kph down Conrod Straight. I've copped some criticism from keyboard "experts" that what I made here is way too light, and that it will not work (even though it does). I covered the choices you have between rigidity and lightness in this video, but they seem to have missed that. It comes down to your choice, but if you decide to add those extra layers remember you'll need more epoxy resin as they will really soak it up. Take the time required to get your timber buck right, and allow yourself to have to maybe re-think some things and learn as you go. You're already way past all the racers who will never attempt this, so press on.
@@BillsBuildandRace There's no shortage of people on the internet that don't have the first clue what they're talking about but are keen to share their opinion anyway. I had dozens of these comments on a fiberglass roof I made. People don't understand that once these sorts of parts are fitted up, they gain a lot of rigidity just from being mounted. And of course, another great video Bill. Remember to get some replacement P2 prefilters for your respirator next time you're out at Bunnings though, we want videos from you for years to come. 😁
Thinking of using corrugated plastic sign board as my pattern, then laying up layers of kevlar and 2 layers of the double bias fiberglass cloth followed by another layer of kevlar and a final top layer of 450 gm carbon fiber. Does that sound about right? Or more double bias fbg in the sandwich? Also should i wax and pva release the corrugated sign board first? Really like the 2 step process. Lot of saved time and expense. thanks for all your help and ideas. @@BillsBuildandRace
There are a large number of filler materials you can use on a job like this. I think I'd prefer Coremat in this instance, but those fillers significantly increase the cost because of how much resin they are designed to soak up, and add significant weight. But yeah - there's more than one way to skin this cat!
I would probably lay up a splitter with a foam core 6 to 10 mm thick with two layers of carbon on top and two layers of Kevlar on the bottom. Foam core would increase the overall rigidity.
@@BillsBuildandRace I built a CF foam core diffuser for my old Reynard Formula Continental race car. I embedded 1/4 inch by 1 inch by 2 inch aluminum flat stock in the foam to reinforce my mounting points so foam would not be crushed. Two layers of CF top and bottom was probably more than needed. Part was the price paid 48 by 38 in and weighs about 10 lb. I could probably use a thinner core and maybe just a single layer of CF top and bottom to save some weight. I didn't do an infusion. It was a wet layup with vacuum bag.
I was thinking using steel as it's heavy and provides weight ditstro at low speeds would that even be a good idea I wanted to cut it out and weld it to the sub frame or your a bolt on set up
Not really because the MDF splits under impact. Ask me how I know this. It's better to use 2 layers of 3mm Coremat for a thicker results, which I did in a making another one in a fairly recent video of an RX7 build.
Im not from Australia but F me this blokes a national treasure, Keep them coming - youve certified me from DI-WHY to DI-WHYNOT? Legend!!!
Superb breakdown of materials and what puts this above other, its followin a question a viewer would ask, pro/Cons/suitably to individual needs and a breakdown of why/why not
If you're new, welcome & you haven't seen anything yet. Check out some heck, all of Bill's older uploads. This man can do it all.
Best tutorials on YT. Thanks for the years Bill.
Ive gotta daily mine so i built mine out of a multi layer sheet of wood that i drilled holes thru and then covered with fiberglass and resin and then made a mount to the frame and its been great at taking a beating.
Love your work! You are a fiberglass genius! Well done!
Watched every your video, I learn how to work with fiberglass thanks to you👍🙏
Always great videos mate
Awesome video as usual
I'm going to make my undertray using this method, thank you for the insight.
I've made my prototype out of plywood but that's not holding up too well on the edges
If I was making this again I think I'd probably use TWO layers of 600 Double Bias fiberglass cloth, and put a layer of 3mm coretex mat in between then - just on the flat parts. I know from having made a previous one that, although floppy on it's own, the splitter firms up and functions well at 220kph down Conrod Straight. I've copped some criticism from keyboard "experts" that what I made here is way too light, and that it will not work (even though it does). I covered the choices you have between rigidity and lightness in this video, but they seem to have missed that. It comes down to your choice, but if you decide to add those extra layers remember you'll need more epoxy resin as they will really soak it up. Take the time required to get your timber buck right, and allow yourself to have to maybe re-think some things and learn as you go. You're already way past all the racers who will never attempt this, so press on.
@@BillsBuildandRace There's no shortage of people on the internet that don't have the first clue what they're talking about but are keen to share their opinion anyway. I had dozens of these comments on a fiberglass roof I made. People don't understand that once these sorts of parts are fitted up, they gain a lot of rigidity just from being mounted.
And of course, another great video Bill. Remember to get some replacement P2 prefilters for your respirator next time you're out at Bunnings though, we want videos from you for years to come. 😁
Thanks for the response guys
@TofuAutoWorks woah it's cool seeing you here, love the cyberpunk mx5
Thinking of using corrugated plastic sign board as my pattern, then laying up layers of kevlar and 2 layers of the double bias fiberglass cloth followed by another layer of kevlar and a final top layer of 450 gm carbon fiber. Does that sound about right? Or more double bias fbg in the sandwich? Also should i wax and pva release the corrugated sign board first? Really like the 2 step process. Lot of saved time and expense. thanks for all your help and ideas. @@BillsBuildandRace
Could you put a foam core when laying up to add some rigidity?
I’ll give this a go myself thank you.
There are a large number of filler materials you can use on a job like this. I think I'd prefer Coremat in this instance, but those fillers significantly increase the cost because of how much resin they are designed to soak up, and add significant weight. But yeah - there's more than one way to skin this cat!
I don't mind making front ends but I've never put my hand to a splitter always being intimidated by the spliter
I would probably lay up a splitter with a foam core 6 to 10 mm thick with two layers of carbon on top and two layers of Kevlar on the bottom. Foam core would increase the overall rigidity.
Yes, that's my standard layup on these now too. This was a case of the client having limited funds and being concerned about weight.
@@BillsBuildandRace I built a CF foam core diffuser for my old Reynard Formula Continental race car. I embedded 1/4 inch by 1 inch by 2 inch aluminum flat stock in the foam to reinforce my mounting points so foam would not be crushed. Two layers of CF top and bottom was probably more than needed. Part was the price paid 48 by 38 in and weighs about 10 lb. I could probably use a thinner core and maybe just a single layer of CF top and bottom to save some weight. I didn't do an infusion. It was a wet layup with vacuum bag.
Hi Bill, What size blade does that electric cloth cutter have in it? 70mm or 90mm? Thanks
70mm Tom
@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks Bill
Do you have in person classes ??
I was thinking using steel as it's heavy and provides weight ditstro at low speeds would that even be a good idea I wanted to cut it out and weld it to the sub frame or your a bolt on set up
I was also thinking of you can't stand on it it won't handle 200 lb of down force
Could you wrap the Kevlar around some 10mm MDF? Instead of using the bars to reinforce?
Not really because the MDF splits under impact. Ask me how I know this. It's better to use 2 layers of 3mm Coremat for a thicker results, which I did in a making another one in a fairly recent video of an RX7 build.
@@BillsBuildandRace thanks chief! Great work. Appreciate the help. ❤️ I'm racing my 1jz Cefiro soon.
@@BillsBuildandRace sorry mate... Had a good look over them all and can't see it. Have a name or link? 🙏🙏
Nice cutter.
Worth it's weight in gold!
Is there any 2 part Polyurethane you'd recommend for us Brits 😁🇬🇧
Just Google "2 pack polyurethane resin UK", or "Clear Table Gloss". But you don't want "casting" resin.
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I'm gonna try carbon fiber
Holy hell intro music deafened me