How To Replace The Heat Block On Your 3D Printer: Step-by-Step Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ม.ค. 2023
- The most common reason why you need to change the heat block on your 3d printer is a stripped nozzle thread.
If you change nozzles pretty regularly like me then, eventually, you are going to wear out the threads in the aluminium heat blocks that are supplied with most of the lower budget 3d printers.
The new parts are not expensive and replacing your heat block can be done quickly and safely if you follow these steps. If you'd rather change the whole hotend then I have a video linked here and in the description. Changing the whole hotend is slightly easier but costs a little more. If you want to just change the heatblock then you're in the right place.
Other videos referenced:
Hotend Change • How to Replace a 3D Pr...
Hotend Cleaning • Ender 3 v2 Hotend Clea...
Replacing Bowden Tube • Essential First Upgrad...
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This video is by-far the most safe and accurate walkthrough to change your heat block. I screwed my nozzles the wrong way and stripped the entire heat block. With Rick's video, i replaced my heat block in a matter of 20 minutes of working VERY slowly. This has been the smoothest replacement/maintenance i've done on my Ender 3V2. Thank you so much, Rick!!!!
Glad it helped👍
Ricky, I really enjoyed your no nonsense videos. You have a great setup for making great to the point videos. Now if we can get you to say "wrench" instead of "spanner" for us across the pond! Hahaha
Thanks and happy printing!
Ha ha, I do 'translate' some of the terms sometimes 🙂 Just wait until I talk about aluminium!🤣
@@RickyImpey 😂
Awesome video, thank you so much! Lots of things to pay attention to i didnt even think of.
Just like all the other positive comments, this is exactly what I was looking for.
I just got an Ender 3 V2 neo and the nozzle pulled out some threads while removing it.
I have the same printer and I messed up the threads too.
Which heater block did you buy as a replacement? It seems as if it needs the cr6 heater block, but Creality doesn't say anywhere what it needs.
Thanks
@@jamie.kyriacou I managed to keep using my heater block. The nozzle sort of fits loose but it tightened enough that I haven’t had any issues. I just finished my first kg of pla and it’s consistent.
I looked and looked for an exact replacement heat block and I couldn’t find anything either. The best potential replacement I found was on Amazon. It’s for the Ender 3, the aluminum anodized heat blocks that are yellow/orange color seemed the best gamble for a replacement block.
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
I have an ender 3 v2 neo, the block doesn't unscrew. Any advice?
I need helping I'm looking to upgrade my hot end I'm looking for the correct size of my heatbreak for my anycubic kobra neo any ideas please
Any chance you will be doing one for the S1 pro. Great videos!
Probably if/when I strip the thread on my S1 Pro hotend🙂 If you haven't seen this video then it will hepl with removing the heatblock and heatbreak assembly:
th-cam.com/video/6T993A2laSc/w-d-xo.html
Loosen your nozzle first so that you can unscrew the heatbreak after and everything else is pretty much the same.
What is the tool used at 4:14?
Where does the thermal paste go?
Why don't you loosen the heat breake's screw and remove the heat block with the heat break, instead of un-screwing the heat block?
Perfect video. I was wondering if I could swap a messed up block without re-wriring. TYVM!
Also, I LOVE the fact that a "quick step by step guide" isn't 2 mins of content in a 20 minute video to satisfy YT's demands/algorithm.
Update: I just finished the procedure and everything went swimmingly. Awesome vid.
Glad the video helped. Yes, i'm not someone who wants to waste anyone's time with non-relevant info.
I was always confused why it was easier to remove the heater while hot instead of cold, I thought surely the metal would expand with heat and cause it to become stuck.
It all depends on the metal. The aluminium of the heatblock tends to expand at a different rate to the heater element so if anything, the hole gets a little bigger. The main reason to heat the hot end to remove parts is that they won't budge if they have any filament on them unless it re-melts.
I'm following this video and while removing the cables from the heating block, one of the just popped out, I see in the video they are tied together, did I ruin it? or I can just peel out more cable and tie themo together again?.
If you mean that one of the wires on either the heater element or thermistor have come detached then I'm afraid they need replacing. They are not really repairable.
@@RickyImpey That's what I meant, yes. Found out I damaged my thermistor, I'm replacing it today. Thanks for the answer!
Is using a hand torch to heat up the block good enough?
Don’t do that. Generating flame or flame jet from a gas torch gives you no precise way of knowing how hot you’ve made the work piece. Its easy to go way too hot with a MAP gas torch for example and end up cooking the insulation off the wires nearby from just the radiant heat alone. Additionally, the PTFE in the Bowden tube is highly heat resistant, but not heat proof. Heat from a gas torch can easily destroy PTFE and create another mess and parts replacement task.
A heat gun used for shrink wrap and solder sticks is a better option when something happens where, for example, the thermistor becomes frozen into the heat-block by solidified filament that has leaked out of a poorly fitted or worn seal between the nozzle, heat break and/or Bowden tube.
However, it is always better to know the precise temps from the thermistor itself whenever possible.
Question is the nozzle in the heatblock itself or is it part of the hotend?
The Ender 3 “hot end” is the complete assembly of heat-block, heat-break, heat-sink and pneumatic coupler.
The heat-break threads part way into the top of the heat block, and the nozzle threads part way into the bottom of the heat-block. You want the stem of the nozzle butting up tight against the bottom of the heat-break inside the heat block. The large diameter (shoulder) of the nozzle should NOT touch the bottom of the heat-block - in fact, there should be a nominal 1.5 mm gap between those.
How do you adjust for that gap? Answer: to increase the gap, rotate the heat-block upward [like a nut on a bolt] so that the heat-break goes deeper into the top of the heat-block. This will reduce the upward travel of the nozzle into the heat-block when it stops against the bottom of the heat-break. Do the reverse the reduce the gap.
This vertical spacing of the nozzle is very important. For this reason, Ricky suggests counting the number of turns as you rotate apart the heat-break and heat-block. That way you can remember the proper number of turns when assembling them to keep you in the ballpark of the correct stop-depth for the nozzle.
This info I’ve shared above is hard to find explicitly explained anywhere else, and will save people a ton of headaches from learning “the hard way.”
Hello Rickey, can you or anyone tell me, the heater grub screw at 2:34 , on my printer became stripped.. ive tried a few different grub screws but they dont work properly.. i have a regular m3 x 2 screw that is the same size as the grub screw, but this screw has a "head on it" to be able to tighten with a phillips screwdriver.. this screw is the same length as the grub screw so it doesnt protrude at all really. i can fit my silicone nozzle cover over it. Will this be okay rickey or is this bad for my hotend to do that?
As long as the head of your grub screw isn’t so ginormous as to interfere with the nozzle diameter and height, or the snug fitment of the silicone sock, you should be OK to use it. Its job is only to retain the heater cartridge by cinching down on it.
Okay thanks for the info, Ive since gotten a new heater block cuz my threads stripped on my stock one but I used that flat head screw for a while with no issues,, I was sorta surprised how well it worked.. It wasnt in the way of the nozzle at all! @@nvg3810
We need a guide for ender 3 s1 too
do i need to fully unscrew the nozzle (it broke off the threads while i was removing it)
The important part is whether you can unscrew the heatbreak from the back. If you can then you'll be fine. You may find that the nozzle has locked the heatbreak in place and it will take quite a bit of force to unscrew it.
I replaced mine just today, but now the fan is extra loud. Taking it apart and putting it back together once more didn't help any. Any suggestions?
Could you have damaged the fan when working on your hotend?
Worst repair video I've seen, you might have mentioned that the thermistor is made out of glass or that it needs to be placed in the hole.