I'm an electrician and I'm often not going to need a rotary hammer during an entire week. But I will be drilling multiple holes for tapcons. In that case, it makes more sense for me to have a hammer drill, and when I really need to bust up some concrete or drill huge holes, I'll break out my corded rotary hammer. But that extension cord is more cumbersome than carrying around a (little) extra weight on my drill
I prefer an all in one drill solution like a cordless hammer drill. The cost and weight isn't that significant and I drill a lot of holes for Tapcon screws. A cordless hammer drill is the right tool for that job.
As a concrete artist, I drill tons of 5/32" holes, in 1.5" thick concrete. The cordless hammer drill has revolutionized how I work, because I don't need my giant rotary hammer, but I can still blast through hundreds of holes. No other tool matches the versatility for me
Depends on the trade and what you do. But for me it doesn't hurt to have that extra versatility. As an electrician sometimes you gotta install conduit and smaller equipment on concrete walls with 1/4" anchors and you don't need a full size rotary drill for a 1/4" hole especially a couple holes. Anything larger you need a rotary drill.
I agree. Its is electricians I do see using the hammer drills the most. And you have to think if you are up on a lift working and need your drill driver anyhow why do you want to take another tool (rotary hammer) to drill a couple holes to attach some stuff to block? When talking about weight that would be more than just a drill driver with a hammer drill capability.
Yea, you clearly aren't thinking this though. Why carry 2 tools when you can use one tool to do to separate jobs. That's why our company uses hammer drills.
Where I’m from, we have something like 90% concrete structures due to tropical storms. That number includes most homes. Being a DIYer in a concrete home, a hammer drill makes the most sense to me for its versatility. I totally get that for most people a hammer drill is unnecessary. I just used mine over the weekend to do something as simple as hang new curtain rods. Definitely a necessary tool for me.
For concrete a hammer drill is the most stupid thing. A rotary hammer is milions or even bilions times faster, and also milions times more reliable. And also the SDS bits are wey-wey-wey more reliable only with a hammer drill that is using a moderate RPM with wey higher impact, with less friction that heat up the soldering of the carbide tip... But there is a use for hammer drill - for drilling brick wall a little faster then with no hammer and without cracking the bricks with a rotary hammer.
@@loochan325 you are absolutely right. A rotary hammer will out perform my hammer drill every day of the week.. but as I said, I’m not a contractor or tradesman. I’m not drilling 500 holes into concrete every day, so that time saving isn’t worth the lack of versatility to me. I don’t feel like my hammer drill takes long enough through concrete to warrant purchasing a rotary hammer, not to mention the additional bits. Even if I did, I still use my hammer drill on material other than concrete so I’d be using it anyway. Hope this helps to clarify.
@@jasonzoretic9239 exactly. I have some needs that I use rotary hammers for myself having two at my shop. But for most everything the hammer drill (15 year old Milwaukee m12 brushed hammer drill/driver) works excellent for the occasional fire extinguisher hanger installations or white board hanging.
@@loochan325 not every task requires a rotary hammer. Sometimes for drilling small holes or drilling in concrete blocks, you don't need a rotary hammer. So why use the big tools ( I have SDS plus and SDS MAX rotary hammers) when you can use the smaller tool that is very capable for the job?
As a DIYer/non-pro, I opted for the hammer drill option because 1- my smaller impact driver gets used the most, and 2- since I don’t use it that frequently , I wanted to have the capability if needed. 3- the size/weight difference was minimal.
I'm a service plumber and my hammer drill takes care of what little masonry drilling I do with ease and having the adjustable chuck vs sds specific bits is also very convenient.
I’m not sure where this video was going. I use m18 hammer-drill on tiles in customers bathrooms. These bathrooms cost anyway from 10-50k plus. You can’t come in there using a rotary hammer drill risking damaging porcelain,marble, granite, quarts and ceramic. You have to be a professional and use caution while using the best tool for the job.
I've got both, I'm in trades, the issue is that a rotary hammer tends to break bricks a lot more often than a standard hammer drill. That's why I keep both. Punch a hole with either one but in certain situations a rotary hammer is too aggressive and the old stand by is the best choice.
I definitely agree that there are more specialized tools that will do the job better. However, the hammer drill fills one specific role for me personally, it's versatile and I don't HAVE to carry an impact driver and an SDS drill, thus saving weight and space in my tool bag/belt. At my job sites we are usually moving around a lot, nd getting very far from the car not knowing exactly what we're getting into, the hammer drill I find is perfect for that, it's light enough to have on your belt, can drill and screw in fasteners (gently and silently too, which the impact can't). Basically it is as you said, the jack of all trades, master of none. And that's exactly what I need. I have considered only carrying an impact, but I often do work where gentle fastening of screws is needed, and the lack of a clutch setting and extra noise on the impact just makes it fall short.
I feel like the video doesn't really understand the point it's trying to make. It's like he's arguing that instead of carrying a Leatherman, you should carry a hunting knife, pair of Knipex pliers, and a full set of fixed-blade screwdrivers all the time. Like... duh, those tools are better. But the whole point of the tool that combines them all into one is that you are trading some part of the utility and additional cost per tool, for a smaller package that does it all.
In some battery platforms, the hammer drill doesn't have any more weight nor size than the standard drill. Yet it provides a higher rpm, torque, and unique features than the standard drill in that line. So having that extra function when you need it (and some of us actually do need it available without having to reach for a different bit of kit) makes it a no brainer to have the function available. Also, I carry the 1/4 impact driver as well. Depending on the job, both can be the right tool for it, and sometimes, one is the right tool where the other will destroy what you are working on.
Hi Vince, IMHO it all depends on the type of construction in the area you live in. In my area most house constructions including the rooftop are made in concrete, masonry, rebar and cement blocks, it's a must on any drill. I live in a hurricane prone area PR. But up in the mainland I have to agree with you because I've seen the type of construction they do and mostly with wood, cement boards, gypsum boards, OSB ect.
I look at it this way. Hammer drills are not that much more than drill drivers. We have a lot of old brick buildings in my area and they always need a small hole to hang anything. Better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it in a pinch.
Hey Vince, as a remodel and maintenance person. It helps to have a hammer drill. Example- I own a bosch bull dog corded. I would have required more drywall to be removed when replacing a bad or rotten bottom plate in a bathroom. The old anchors or nails were rusted down to concrete. Just made new holes and set anchors. Quicker easier and had the driver function to tighten the nuts down. Did not have to carry two tools, or mess with cords. Saved me time. I'm sure there was a faster way, just working with what I have. With that said, I was impressed how fast gen4 hammer drill performed. Gen 3 was meh in slabs when it came to that. Keepem coming love the content.
i cant say i completely agree, but you certainly do make some very valid points. i really cant argue anything you said, but sometimes ppl have different priorities and the trade offs are acceptable.
I think it depends on the person and what jobs they need to accomplish. Some people may prefer using a hammer drill over buying a SDS and all the specialized bits you would need. Maybe you already have a whole set of drill bits of different sizes that only fit into a chuck. Maybe an M18 hammer drill is just the right amount of power and size for the job. The installation driver may be under powered for what you need. That's the beauty of having many options, it caters to the individual. Thanks for the insight Vince!!
@@VCGConstructionNo, thank you Vince. That was a poor reply to BG. I'm 100% with him on this one. I own an sds and an sds max corded hammer drill. Only way to go if you're doing repetition drilling. My cordless rotary hammer is great for a lot of midsized jobs. That little hammer drill feature on the regular drill has saved the day close to 50x! Installing a septic drain field... The chain for the concrete cover needed to be affixed to the concrete tank structure. 2 - 1/4" concrete anchors. Come back the next day? No. Use the hammer drill feature, get it done and call it a day. Sudden rain and had to plastic up the window openings. We weren't the general, but it was the right thing to do. 8 tapcons were needed on 2 windows. You guessed it, hammer drill feature on the drill. Saved the day. Many more instances. I drill all my wood holes with it anyways. What are you saving? 10 ounces... probably not even that much. First time I'll say this, Vince don't dig so deep for content. SMH
@@edpoints1127 Milwaukee was probably seeing low rotary hammer sales that month, so called up Vince to convince people to spend money on tools they don't need. I do remodel construction. I have a rotary hammer. It mostly collects dust. My hammer drill is on every job and as you said, is the one that gets the job done quick and easy. Vince is over here pretending new construction commercial builders make up the majority of his viewership. Not even close. Most folks watching these videos aren't spending days on end, drilling big holes in concrete. I'm not hefting out a rotary hammer to drill a few holes in some stucco, brick, or even concrete - when all I have to do is flip a switch on my drill. It's hilarious that he talks about how "very heavy" a hammer drill is and then recommends a rotary hammer. What?!
Hammer drill is nice for small anchors and when a rotary hammer may initially chip out your concrete/brick/block. I've had to put tapcons in old brick and the rotary hammer I had was too aggressive. Went to the hammer drill for the rest and it was smooth sailing.
When we need to drill a lot of holes in concrete, we get out our old corded SDS drill, If its just 1 or 2 , less than 1/2 inch, we will just use a cordless hammer drill. For SDS jobs, we always throw in another bit of some sort with each job we use it on, its a good way to get stocked up on bits.
I'm an electrician who works in residential new constructions. My impact fastens and my hammer drill makes holeys. Between my M12 impact and M18 hammer drill I can do anything. Using spade/augur bits on an impact is fine but if it hits a nail it will destroy the bit which my hammer drill wont do. it just stops.
I actually need the hammer function for my use case. I install window hardware for storm boards on new homes. Lots of them are stucco so theres a layer of mud i need to go through, I also run into nails every now and then. Definitely don't want to be lugging around a heavy rotary hammer for 15-30 windows, drilling 60-120 holes, especially when some are over 12 feet high. After that im putting in 5.5in lag screws with my impact. Wish i could only use one tool, but even if there was one, it would burn out from all the hole drilling and lag screwing. They both can heat up quite a bit on hot days.
these drivers are very usefull for bricks which are very common in Europe, most SDS drills go to hard and damage the bricks whils these hammerdrills do a terrific job at it. And in Europe a lot of carpentry involves brickwork so for me it is the only type of driver I have (got a few but multi purpose bits).
This is it for me. Many times the blowout on the back side of a rendered brick or block wall from a rotary hammer is a huge inconvenience for patch work. You could take the time to pilot hole it with a much smaller bit and then use the actual diameter bit on each side of the wall, but that's time consuming and also not always practical. I also hate doing more damage than is necessary personally. And I don't think you can get away from that with a rotary because it relies on that increased force/IPM to drill faster.
I learned this the hard way. I tried using my Bosch with a 6v battery to hammer holes in concrete/ masonry and was very disappointed in the failure of the tool. Luckily i had my trusty Makita corded Jammer drill to get the job done. The Bosch became my go to regular drill driver.
I'm an electrician in a hurricane-prone area so all houses & buildings are of concrete/block construction. While I do carry specialized drills for given tasks when I know what that task is beforehand, however, the hammer drill is my EDC which allows me to carry fewer tools to my basic call-out jobs.
Hammer drills as per design tend to self destruct because many of its internals are plastic that cannot withstand the hammer action for too long. Thus, cost-wise, having two tools would not be too high when we consider the maintenance and/or replacement costs of hammer drills. You make excellent points, Sir.
I'm a homeowner. I have larger 18V cordless handtools that include a hammerdrill, but have recently been adopting the Milwaukee M12 system for working on my cars. The M12 system is so lightweight and convenient that I've been using it for most things, and I'd go for that M12 multi-head installation driver before their compact hammerdrill for the exact reasons in this video.
I use mine for tapcons and driving large timber and structural anchors, and it’s the best heavy duty drill for large holes 4” plus for duct work. Everything else impact or compact drill
What about the rotary hammer? People don't realize the massive difference in masonry/concrete drilling with hammer drill vs rotary hammer.... Then half way through the video you say exactly this. Love it.
I rarely ever use the hammer function, this is true. But I do like having it when I am drilling into masonry. This is only because as a DIYer, I haven't purchased a dedicated rotary hammer yet. I have used the M18 rotary hammer, and it by far destroys the abilities of my hammer drill for sure. But it's just not worth it to me to go out and buy one when my hammer drill will get the job done, but slower. (much much slower)
I've been in the skilled piping trades for going on 15 years now. I can honestly say that I have absolutely zero use for the hammer function on a drill driver. Things like the Shockwave impact Duty attachments for Milwaukee allow you to check up an impact drill for most drilling applications your hole saws would be one of the few things where I would use an actual drill driver but never on the hammer function. And then when it comes to stuff like concrete I've never used a hammer drill, I've always used the SDS rotary hammer. What a waste of time the hammer drill would be. MUCH LOVE. great video
I use the hammer function often as a fiber technician. But I tend to use my m12 drill/driver for drilling most holes in wood and only pull out the m18 hammer drill when necessary..
I carry a hammer drill and a rotary hammer. Sometimes the rotary is far too large to fit in some spots. Sometimes I don't want to lift a heavy ass rotary overhead for a couple hours at a time. Some anchors are so thin that a large bouncy rotary hammer will wallow out the hole as you drill and ruin the hole or force you to move your hole and change your layout when a hammer drill wouldn't. I run into this a lot with tapcons in particular. I'm an industrial mechanic by trade and have set 10's of thousands of anchors and have come to the conclusion that you need both to actually be efficient.
I specifically use my impact drivers to drive screws and lags, my SDS Plus and Max to bore or drill through concrete and my drill to drill holes in wood and metals.
I use a Milwaukee cordless 18v Hamer Drill when I drill holes in concrete for TapCon screws. The Hamer action combined with a good quality masonry bit works way better than an impact or regular drill...
I mainly use my M18 for drilling wood up to 1"holes with auger bits, 4⅛ & 6⅜" holesaws, and the ¼" masonry bit on hammer mode. If I need bigger, deeper, or more, it's the SDS & HoleHawg all day. Otherwise it's my M12 impact or M18 impact. If I know I'll only need a couple small holes drilled, wood or fenceblock, I'm using the tiny M12 impact that fits almost anywhere
As was mentioned - you will use the hammer drill function for tapcons, and drill less than a couple concrete holes. If you’re drilling more than a couple of concrete holes you’re going to want to use the rotary sds.. every tool serves a purpose and for lightweight concrete drilling and or concrete tapcon mounting ect.. the hammer drill is excellent!
I work at a welding/fabrication shop that does some mechanical contracting and use my hammer drill frequently running anchors into concrete and block. I use my sds cordless when doing bigger wedge anchors but the hammer drill is awesome for smaller tasks that just use tapcons. I’m talking specific jobs where I may put in less than 10-20 tapcons on a jobsite.
Been working in construction from foundation to finish for 2 years now and have done personalized homes to comercial buildings...when im on a larger site and further from my tools, or working up high, I prefer to carry tools that can get most of my jobs done...I dont want to get weighed down by a bunch of tools, be running around more than necessary, or have more tools to carry up and down ladders, staging etc...hammer drill is the quick and dirty do all for anything that is gonna get covered up that can easily fit any bit/ doohickey i need. However i will say my impact gun is more comfortable to use in more situations
I’m a handyman. Why carry a bag with 3 tools when my hammer drill will do all of these jobs. It’s not enough heavier to wear me out. It actually saves time by not have to go get another tool or carry multiple tools on my belt when I’m 8 feet in the air putting anchors in a brick wall, and then need to drive the screws.
I’m a home owner, DIYer, couple odds and ends sides jobs, kinda guy and I will always own a drill/hammer drill combo. For drilling tapcons ect it’s all I need. That and my impact driver are the perfect combo.
Thanks for posting this. It got me thinking and I completely agree. Hammer drills cant do "Steck-Dreh-Sitz" ie. Insert-Twist-Stay (SDS), so I don't see the point. I'm a DIYer and will don't do heaps of power tool work. I'm opting for a Milwaukee compact drill/driver M12 and possibly a M12 FUEL 5/8” SDS Plus Rotary Hammer when that comes out.
I agree somewhat but impacts to me are for driving fasteners and drills are for borring holes i have the m12 sds anything id use that my m18 drill for ill use the sds masonry wise
I use a hammer drill for drilling small holes in tile but I also own all the different styles of drills you spoke about. also a hammer drill will work when you need to drill holes for a few tapcons unexpectedly if you don't have a rotary hammer with you.
Thanks for another great video and not being scared of sharing a well-founded opinion! My first reaction was to disagree with your statement. As a DIY enthusiast and sort of amateur Jack of all trades, my experience with my hammer drill is beyond positive. Besides drilling into (hard) concrete, I'm able to perform all kinds of tasks with this versatile tool. I think I even don't mind the weight issue, while I'm often using 1.5 or 2aH batteries. However, nowadays I more often grab the more specialist tools when taking on bigger projects. When working all day on a renovation or any other type of project, it totally makes sense to be able to grab the specialist tool and switch tools to fit the needs. Why drill a hole with with your hammer drill and then switch bits to drive a screw into something?
I don't know why Vince is trolling hammer drills 😂, but Im a cable installer in Florida and more than 90% of the homes I install onto are masonry. I started with using a non hammer Craftsman. Totally changed the game for me when I upgraded to a Hanmer. It's not even a contest. Hammer is a must! Then, I use/carry my impact to drive the fasteners once the hammer makes the hole 🕳️. I'd rather carry my impact than unchuck and change bits to drive a 1/4 Nut tapcon with the hammer. So, I carry both.
Go Vince! Your Wrong! I pull it out when I need to use hole saws 1"+ and the occasional need for the Hammer Drill function. I chose this instead of the regular Drill/Driver for these reasons. I get Drill/Hammer Drill. I also have my hex Impact I use as a Drill/Driver with Spade Bits. Can't do Hole Saw with Impact. Also good to have both to use at the same time to keep from continuously changing out bits for pilot holes. Just drill & drive ambidextrous, lol. 👍
What hammer drills are you talking about? Like the SDS max and plus ones? Because I can see the hammer drill symbol on the drill you are holding while you are telling me not to get it but also get it?
The whole is video is utter nonsense, don't bother. There are now powerful efficienct codless impact drills that screw mechanical bolt anchors into c40+ concrete without any sweat. As long as you're not demolishing concrete a quality high joule impact cordless drill can get most of the construction job done as of 2024.
My M12 hammer drill saved me numerous of times when I’m hanging cabinets in condos on concrete walls. Although it’s not used often, It’s a great function to have when needed!
I would actually disagree. For residential contractors who do renovations, its just too versatile to pass up. Having a single tool that can mix small batches of mud/thinset and drill holes in masonry/tile is an absolute win. For the size of jobs we did, having dedicated solutions would have been massive overkill and, honestly, a waste of money.
I've just bought the M12 Rotary hammer. When I'm drilling in a concrete wall I want that thing to hammer and not to gently vibrate it self through. But I mostly do drilling for 6 and 8mm, so M12 is the perfect specialised tool for the job.
I'm a warehouse technician who also does construction for the warehouse as needed (under a jack of all trades & master electrician who's also been a forman, superintendent, senior superintendent, and inspector). I don't really find myself needing to do stuff like coring or anything. Even drilling holes into concrete all day, it's usually for tapcons and anchors, drilling around 3/16" holes. I don't generally have a use for a rotary hammer, nor do I or the shop own one. My hammer drill isn't as fast as a rotary hammer but it does just fine. That and an impact are with me every day, as well as a handful of other tools as needed.
I have never used the hammer drill function on a drill/driver. I always go to the sds simply because it’s a lot faster. Especially when drilling large holes like 1/2” and 5/8” as we do for our pole sheds and the large anchors we use
I’m an electrical apprentice and I will say that yes you make a very good point BUT as you know, there’s always going to be that one or two times where you’re going to need a hammer drill so it just makes sense to spend the extra little $ to save yourself time in a pinch
As a DIYer I use my cordless drill drivers for general use. If I am drilling concrete or steel I will go for my old corded drill or drill press. But as you said it is the exception rather that the rule.
I carry the M12 Hammer/Drill/Driver in my truck at all times. Maybe drill a dozen holes a year in masonry with it, but it saves me from not remembering to bring the large hammer drill or if I need to drill a hole in masonry I wasn't planning on.
I'm not an exception to your argument as I'm more of a handyman working on jobs big and small. That being said, I recently had a lot of neighbours asking me to fit things like wall mounted lights on the outside of their houses and even basic things like putting up mirrors and picture frames. Initially I was carrying around my 18V SDS as well as my 12V installation driver. I recently decided to just take my old cheapo brushed Ryobi combi drill and had no issues at all. In fact, I realised that the combi drill was probably better suited in some of these applications. Living in the UK, I'm almost always dealing with brick walls, often rendered/plastered. The SDS sometimes feels too aggressive, especially on fragile surfaces prone to cracking or crumbling. That being said, I agree that if you're working on the same specialised tasks on a regular basis, use the tool best suited for that job. Sometimes however, the hammer function on a combi drill IS the right tool.
Just got the gen 4 hammer drill. I have an older brushed m12 drill/driver set. They can handle 80% of what I do around the house and restaurant. But I have the installation driver for doing shelves and random stuff. It's an awesome standalone drill. Has entirely replaced my old brushed m12 drill. But the restaurants pre-fabbed with metal studs. And getting through those is a pain in the butt. Also occasionally have to punch through concrete or brick for running speaker wires. So I decided to just go ahead and invest in a drill that can do all that without cutting out. I don't think I need a new m12/m18 fuel impact until my old brushed m12 impact dies.
I’m a fiber and low voltage installation technician, and the hammer drill is used when needed. IE. making holes in mortar. The impacts can do it, but not as quickly as a hammer drill. I know what you mean, but it does have a purpose on my truck.
Sure came in handy when my wife needed 4 holes in her glazed ceramic pot. Don’t use it often but it keeps me from going to the shop to get my Bosch corded hammer drill MOST of the time.
As a electrician I think the hammer drill has its place, often times I’m hanging one or two boxes on a concrete slab and have to run conduit to those boxes. So I need to be able to drill 1/4” holes into concrete to put anchors in so I can mount my boxes and straps. Yes the rotary hammers are nice and I have a small one just for this stuff but Sometmes I’m parked far from where I’m working and if I’m only drilling like 4 holes it’s nice to have that function to save me time from walking back to my work van
Wait, Vince what about concrete bud? That’s pretty much the only reason I have mine in my bag but saves me taking the big guy of the truck for odd the of 1/4 inch hole for mushroom anchors and what’s not
My Milwaukee Gen 3 hammer drill is used for drilling holes, mixing paint, mixing joint compound, and mixing grout . As a DIY not professionally. I don't think I have ever switched it to hammer mode. I install fasteners with my gen 3 impact driver
Yo Vince! As a drywall punch out guy (for those who don't know what that means, sorry about your luck) the instant versatility of a hammer drill to drill/driver is priceless! One never knows when drilling into a slab one minute, then fastening track and studs into that slab the next minute, might be necessary. I swear by the hammer drill/driver. Though, these days, the installation drill is an awesome addition to a punch out person's arsenal. Thank you for the topic and God bless! 😁👍✌
I have specialized tool in the van for bigger jobs, but I keep a few tools in my trunk like a hammer drill for small quick jobs. These are amazing for travel bags.
I use a hammer drill all the time for everything and I always have masonry bits in my backpack at all times. I mostly use smaller masonry fasteners and I don’t have to make the extra trip to the truck to get a hammer drill, because I already have it. If I’m doing bigger holes in masonry then I go get my rotary hammer drill and drills. I would say that almost everyday I will use the hammer drill function at some point, it’s just the type of work I do.
I use both a hammer drill and a rotary hammer, I use my hammer drill for installing small 5/32" tapcons and such, and save the big boy 1-9/16" rotary hammer for breaking up concrete or tile
I build and install wrought iron gates and fences. We use a corded hammer drill for every job since we always have an extension cord ran for our welder. But in the cases where it’s a quick install and don’t need to unload our cords we do use our cordless hammer drill for drilling into concrete, brick walls, and through stucco to install our anchors. Don’t really see the need to buy a dedicated cordless hammer drill so it’s worth the cost to me to have the hammer drill function on my regular drill.
It’s a hammer drill vs SDS question remodel work for fastening stud with a tapcon to soft brick a sds will absolutely destroy the brick you’re trying to tie into but a the hammer drill packs just enough punch to make the hole without cracking or destroying the brick even with old block 40+ years old an sds is just too much that is the only purpose for my dewalt drill with the hammer function but 9/10 times I run it for standard wood drilling without hammer it’s nice to have the multi purpose tool
It’s a great tool for handymen , DIY/homeowners, or anyone that does relatively low volume of drilling. Definitely has its place and should not be deleted from the lineup. You can even use it for mixing mud if you’re smart about it
As a multitrade. I'm always trying to streamline my kit. The standard box I carry now only has my M18 Fuel Impact Driver. I'd never drive screws with a hammer drill because the impact is so superior. And drilling with good impact compatible drill drill bits is also superior. There is a little more play in the bit, but that compensated for by less vibration were accuracy is concerned. Anything the impact can't drill out with a multimaterial bit on full speed is a job for the sds. The bit change is fast for instances where I'm drilling a countersink, then a plug hole, then driving the fastener. My hammer drill is obsolete. I'll probably replace it with an M12 impact. What would be useful is a clutched attachment for delicate work and drywall, but the trigger control is good enough for now.
It's good for tapcons into foundation, and boaring wood out the 2 inch holes for the pvc, the two things I use it for. So its perfect for me. I use my SDS max for the masonry.
I don’t own one but my understanding is that a hammer drill has a feature where it doesn’t spin but oscillates in and out like an electric jackhammer for use with a chisel bit. I’m starting to doubt myself since that wasn’t mentioned as a reason to get one. What am I missing?
Vince, I work as a handyman, a jack of many trades and will tell you that I need tools that are kind of like me. I only use the hammer trill function when drilling through brick or concrete with masonry bits. I think using the HD function for anything else is moronic. Who tries to drill a precision hole in wood with a hole saw or spade bit dancing around. With the HD function my 4 year old DeWalt XR drill driver goes through most brick and masonry like a hot knife through butter. I've tried the same without the HD function and it was like a cold knife through frozen butter.
A cousin of mine wh9o has worked on construcion most of hi life as a woodworker always says "You're as good as your tools" and he is 100 percent correct. I'll say one thing though. Yesterday, I had to do some light work, and instead of using a drill and impact driver, I used the impact driver to both drill and fasten. I think for around the house, this is all I need. I'll save the M18 and M12 Fuel drills for more intense work, or to hand off to a worker doing a job for me when I think their tool is inferior.
I'm gonna be straight honest here, i have a milwaukee m12 hammerdrill, and for me as a service electrician, i can do everything with it from concrete and bricks with the hammer function to drywall. i can do it all. it is a differend discussion for when i am working on a construction site were I have to drill bigger holes through Deeper concrete walls. at that point i am switching to the m18 rotery hammer. one downside is that is it so freaking heavy, so drilling in a place that is JUST about to be out of reach can be pretty hard.
I agree a hammer drill is not the same as a dedicated rotary drill BUT for a while I could not buy a dedicated rotary drill and the small jobs I was doing my m18 hammer drill was getting the job done. Drilling 3/4x8" size anchor holes for post and whatnot, it served its purpose and got the job done, now I have the fuel m18 hammer drill big boy and its truly much better at drilling through concrete but if need be I can go back to my hammer drill and assist in any job of space is a issue.
If you're a homeowner that hammer drill is the only drill you need. If you're a pro and need to go to a rush job and don't have a truck full of tools, grab that hammer drill and it will get whatever job completed. It's not the best tool for ever application but it can get the job done whether it's boring holes thru wood, drilling into concrete, or installing fasteners
As a sparky I use the hammer drill for holes of any kind ever day. Rarely do I used the hammer function because I always use an SDS cuz it’s way better. But every now and then I’m in a pinch and need to throw in an anchor and don’t have the sds readily available and it’s nice to just use the hammer drill for a quick anchor or two.
Completely agree for wood working I use that installation driver 99% of the time and for work I use m12 impact or m12 hammer drill for a majority of the work the only true reason I even updated my m18 hammer drill is that’s the best tool to use with another specialty tool I got called a surewinder to wind garage door springs
I agree with Vince on this. I use an impact driver for screws. But, I do have to drill holes in concrete, so I use a corded hammer drill or rotary hammer for that. A cordless tool would chew up all my batteries before I might finish the job.
Yep my installation driver and m12 impact get 99%of my drilling and driving uses. I recently used my m18 fuel hammer drill to split in half a bunch of retaining wall bricks to use as weights for stickered lumber. But outside of that I’ll take lightweight anyday
In my job I drill and drive screws every day. Half of those holes are in tile. So i run my sub compact makita hammer drill in my tool bag and nothing else. I use to run a normal drill driver and break out the big hammer drill as needed but feel now there is no need to make that additional trip back to the van.
I'm an electrician and I'm often not going to need a rotary hammer during an entire week. But I will be drilling multiple holes for tapcons. In that case, it makes more sense for me to have a hammer drill, and when I really need to bust up some concrete or drill huge holes, I'll break out my corded rotary hammer. But that extension cord is more cumbersome than carrying around a (little) extra weight on my drill
As The Carpenter, i rarely agree with the electrician. But you got this one bro😎👍🏾
I'm also an electrician, this was literally my response I was coming down here to type.
I'm an electrician, and I completely agree with you.
Exactlyyyyy
Ditto
I prefer an all in one drill solution like a cordless hammer drill. The cost and weight isn't that significant and I drill a lot of holes for Tapcon screws. A cordless hammer drill is the right tool for that job.
As a concrete artist, I drill tons of 5/32" holes, in 1.5" thick concrete. The cordless hammer drill has revolutionized how I work, because I don't need my giant rotary hammer, but I can still blast through hundreds of holes. No other tool matches the versatility for me
totally agree
The m12 rotory hammer drill would do a better job I bet and it’s tiny
Depends on the trade and what you do. But for me it doesn't hurt to have that extra versatility. As an electrician sometimes you gotta install conduit and smaller equipment on concrete walls with 1/4" anchors and you don't need a full size rotary drill for a 1/4" hole especially a couple holes. Anything larger you need a rotary drill.
I agree. Its is electricians I do see using the hammer drills the most. And you have to think if you are up on a lift working and need your drill driver anyhow why do you want to take another tool (rotary hammer) to drill a couple holes to attach some stuff to block? When talking about weight that would be more than just a drill driver with a hammer drill capability.
Agreed, definitely the sparkies using these the most, I’ve even seen them putting tapped holes in concrete for threaded rod for hanging GSTs
As an electrician I can say this is accurate. Got a dcd999 and I love it
Yea, you clearly aren't thinking this though. Why carry 2 tools when you can use one tool to do to separate jobs. That's why our company uses hammer drills.
Where I’m from, we have something like 90% concrete structures due to tropical storms. That number includes most homes. Being a DIYer in a concrete home, a hammer drill makes the most sense to me for its versatility. I totally get that for most people a hammer drill is unnecessary. I just used mine over the weekend to do something as simple as hang new curtain rods. Definitely a necessary tool for me.
For concrete a hammer drill is the most stupid thing. A rotary hammer is milions or even bilions times faster, and also milions times more reliable. And also the SDS bits are wey-wey-wey more reliable only with a hammer drill that is using a moderate RPM with wey higher impact, with less friction that heat up the soldering of the carbide tip...
But there is a use for hammer drill - for drilling brick wall a little faster then with no hammer and without cracking the bricks with a rotary hammer.
@@loochan325 you are absolutely right. A rotary hammer will out perform my hammer drill every day of the week.. but as I said, I’m not a contractor or tradesman. I’m not drilling 500 holes into concrete every day, so that time saving isn’t worth the lack of versatility to me. I don’t feel like my hammer drill takes long enough through concrete to warrant purchasing a rotary hammer, not to mention the additional bits. Even if I did, I still use my hammer drill on material other than concrete so I’d be using it anyway.
Hope this helps to clarify.
IDK buddy, I am a contractor and rotary is sexy, but who wants to pull out the big guns to hang shutters. Or a shower door...
@@jasonzoretic9239 exactly. I have some needs that I use rotary hammers for myself having two at my shop. But for most everything the hammer drill (15 year old Milwaukee m12 brushed hammer drill/driver) works excellent for the occasional fire extinguisher hanger installations or white board hanging.
@@loochan325 not every task requires a rotary hammer. Sometimes for drilling small holes or drilling in concrete blocks, you don't need a rotary hammer.
So why use the big tools ( I have SDS plus and SDS MAX rotary hammers) when you can use the smaller tool that is very capable for the job?
As a DIYer/non-pro, I opted for the hammer drill option because 1- my smaller impact driver gets used the most, and 2- since I don’t use it that frequently , I wanted to have the capability if needed. 3- the size/weight difference was minimal.
I'm a service plumber and my hammer drill takes care of what little masonry drilling I do with ease and having the adjustable chuck vs sds specific bits is also very convenient.
I’m not sure where this video was going. I use m18 hammer-drill on tiles in customers bathrooms. These bathrooms cost anyway from 10-50k plus. You can’t come in there using a rotary hammer drill risking damaging porcelain,marble, granite, quarts and ceramic. You have to be a professional and use caution while using the best tool for the job.
I've got both, I'm in trades, the issue is that a rotary hammer tends to break bricks a lot more often than a standard hammer drill. That's why I keep both. Punch a hole with either one but in certain situations a rotary hammer is too aggressive and the old stand by is the best choice.
I definitely agree that there are more specialized tools that will do the job better.
However, the hammer drill fills one specific role for me personally, it's versatile and I don't HAVE to carry an impact driver and an SDS drill, thus saving weight and space in my tool bag/belt.
At my job sites we are usually moving around a lot, nd getting very far from the car not knowing exactly what we're getting into, the hammer drill I find is perfect for that, it's light enough to have on your belt, can drill and screw in fasteners (gently and silently too, which the impact can't).
Basically it is as you said, the jack of all trades, master of none. And that's exactly what I need.
I have considered only carrying an impact, but I often do work where gentle fastening of screws is needed, and the lack of a clutch setting and extra noise on the impact just makes it fall short.
I feel like the video doesn't really understand the point it's trying to make. It's like he's arguing that instead of carrying a Leatherman, you should carry a hunting knife, pair of Knipex pliers, and a full set of fixed-blade screwdrivers all the time. Like... duh, those tools are better. But the whole point of the tool that combines them all into one is that you are trading some part of the utility and additional cost per tool, for a smaller package that does it all.
In some battery platforms, the hammer drill doesn't have any more weight nor size than the standard drill. Yet it provides a higher rpm, torque, and unique features than the standard drill in that line. So having that extra function when you need it (and some of us actually do need it available without having to reach for a different bit of kit) makes it a no brainer to have the function available. Also, I carry the 1/4 impact driver as well. Depending on the job, both can be the right tool for it, and sometimes, one is the right tool where the other will destroy what you are working on.
This guy is definitely a Milwaukee salesman
If I have to add a plastic anchor or 1 tapcon to something hammer drill is fine. Anything more or larger and sds plus comes out.
Hi Vince, IMHO it all depends on the type of construction in the area you live in. In my area most house constructions including the rooftop are made in concrete, masonry, rebar and cement blocks, it's a must on any drill. I live in a hurricane prone area PR. But up in the mainland I have to agree with you because I've seen the type of construction they do and mostly with wood, cement boards, gypsum boards, OSB ect.
Appreciate the feedback Anthony!
I live in Miami and this is certainly my experience as well. I've been putting lights into the wife's new office recently and the ceiling is concrete.
I look at it this way. Hammer drills are not that much more than drill drivers. We have a lot of old brick buildings in my area and they always need a small hole to hang anything. Better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it in a pinch.
Hey Vince, as a remodel and maintenance person. It helps to have a hammer drill. Example- I own a bosch bull dog corded. I would have required more drywall to be removed when replacing a bad or rotten bottom plate in a bathroom. The old anchors or nails were rusted down to concrete. Just made new holes and set anchors. Quicker easier and had the driver function to tighten the nuts down. Did not have to carry two tools, or mess with cords. Saved me time. I'm sure there was a faster way, just working with what I have. With that said, I was impressed how fast gen4 hammer drill performed. Gen 3 was meh in slabs when it came to that. Keepem coming love the content.
i cant say i completely agree, but you certainly do make some very valid points. i really cant argue anything you said, but sometimes ppl have different priorities and the trade offs are acceptable.
I think it depends on the person and what jobs they need to accomplish. Some people may prefer using a hammer drill over buying a SDS and all the specialized bits you would need. Maybe you already have a whole set of drill bits of different sizes that only fit into a chuck. Maybe an M18 hammer drill is just the right amount of power and size for the job. The installation driver may be under powered for what you need. That's the beauty of having many options, it caters to the individual. Thanks for the insight Vince!!
Thank you BG
@@VCGConstructionNo, thank you Vince. That was a poor reply to BG. I'm 100% with him on this one. I own an sds and an sds max corded hammer drill. Only way to go if you're doing repetition drilling. My cordless rotary hammer is great for a lot of midsized jobs. That little hammer drill feature on the regular drill has saved the day close to 50x! Installing a septic drain field... The chain for the concrete cover needed to be affixed to the concrete tank structure. 2 - 1/4" concrete anchors. Come back the next day? No. Use the hammer drill feature, get it done and call it a day.
Sudden rain and had to plastic up the window openings. We weren't the general, but it was the right thing to do. 8 tapcons were needed on 2 windows. You guessed it, hammer drill feature on the drill. Saved the day.
Many more instances. I drill all my wood holes with it anyways. What are you saving? 10 ounces... probably not even that much. First time I'll say this, Vince don't dig so deep for content. SMH
@@edpoints1127 Milwaukee was probably seeing low rotary hammer sales that month, so called up Vince to convince people to spend money on tools they don't need.
I do remodel construction. I have a rotary hammer. It mostly collects dust. My hammer drill is on every job and as you said, is the one that gets the job done quick and easy.
Vince is over here pretending new construction commercial builders make up the majority of his viewership. Not even close. Most folks watching these videos aren't spending days on end, drilling big holes in concrete. I'm not hefting out a rotary hammer to drill a few holes in some stucco, brick, or even concrete - when all I have to do is flip a switch on my drill. It's hilarious that he talks about how "very heavy" a hammer drill is and then recommends a rotary hammer. What?!
Hammer drill is nice for small anchors and when a rotary hammer may initially chip out your concrete/brick/block. I've had to put tapcons in old brick and the rotary hammer I had was too aggressive. Went to the hammer drill for the rest and it was smooth sailing.
When we need to drill a lot of holes in concrete, we get out our old corded SDS drill, If its just 1 or 2 , less than 1/2 inch, we will just use a cordless hammer drill. For SDS jobs, we always throw in another bit of some sort with each job we use it on, its a good way to get stocked up on bits.
Fair enough , appreciate the feedback Chuck!
I'm an electrician who works in residential new constructions. My impact fastens and my hammer drill makes holeys. Between my M12 impact and M18 hammer drill I can do anything. Using spade/augur bits on an impact is fine but if it hits a nail it will destroy the bit which my hammer drill wont do. it just stops.
I actually need the hammer function for my use case. I install window hardware for storm boards on new homes. Lots of them are stucco so theres a layer of mud i need to go through, I also run into nails every now and then. Definitely don't want to be lugging around a heavy rotary hammer for 15-30 windows, drilling 60-120 holes, especially when some are over 12 feet high. After that im putting in 5.5in lag screws with my impact. Wish i could only use one tool, but even if there was one, it would burn out from all the hole drilling and lag screwing. They both can heat up quite a bit on hot days.
these drivers are very usefull for bricks which are very common in Europe, most SDS drills go to hard and damage the bricks whils these hammerdrills do a terrific job at it. And in Europe a lot of carpentry involves brickwork so for me it is the only type of driver I have (got a few but multi purpose bits).
This is it for me. Many times the blowout on the back side of a rendered brick or block wall from a rotary hammer is a huge inconvenience for patch work. You could take the time to pilot hole it with a much smaller bit and then use the actual diameter bit on each side of the wall, but that's time consuming and also not always practical. I also hate doing more damage than is necessary personally. And I don't think you can get away from that with a rotary because it relies on that increased force/IPM to drill faster.
I learned this the hard way. I tried using my Bosch with a 6v battery to hammer holes in concrete/ masonry and was very disappointed in the failure of the tool. Luckily i had my trusty Makita corded Jammer drill to get the job done. The Bosch became my go to regular drill driver.
I'm an electrician in a hurricane-prone area so all houses & buildings are of concrete/block construction. While I do carry specialized drills for given tasks when I know what that task is beforehand, however, the hammer drill is my EDC which allows me to carry fewer tools to my basic call-out jobs.
Hammer drills as per design tend to self destruct because many of its internals are plastic that cannot withstand the hammer action for too long. Thus, cost-wise, having two tools would not be too high when we consider the maintenance and/or replacement costs of hammer drills. You make excellent points, Sir.
Hammer drill does everything , I stand by it. I’ll bring out my SDS for maybe once in a while
I'm a homeowner. I have larger 18V cordless handtools that include a hammerdrill, but have recently been adopting the Milwaukee M12 system for working on my cars. The M12 system is so lightweight and convenient that I've been using it for most things, and I'd go for that M12 multi-head installation driver before their compact hammerdrill for the exact reasons in this video.
I use mine for tapcons and driving large timber and structural anchors, and it’s the best heavy duty drill for large holes 4” plus for duct work. Everything else impact or compact drill
What about the rotary hammer? People don't realize the massive difference in masonry/concrete drilling with hammer drill vs rotary hammer.... Then half way through the video you say exactly this. Love it.
I rarely ever use the hammer function, this is true. But I do like having it when I am drilling into masonry. This is only because as a DIYer, I haven't purchased a dedicated rotary hammer yet. I have used the M18 rotary hammer, and it by far destroys the abilities of my hammer drill for sure. But it's just not worth it to me to go out and buy one when my hammer drill will get the job done, but slower. (much much slower)
Interesting point Vince. If it's a lot of driving, I use my bulldog. But for small little things, it's straight to the m18.
I've been in the skilled piping trades for going on 15 years now. I can honestly say that I have absolutely zero use for the hammer function on a drill driver. Things like the Shockwave impact Duty attachments for Milwaukee allow you to check up an impact drill for most drilling applications your hole saws would be one of the few things where I would use an actual drill driver but never on the hammer function. And then when it comes to stuff like concrete I've never used a hammer drill, I've always used the SDS rotary hammer. What a waste of time the hammer drill would be. MUCH LOVE. great video
I use the hammer function often as a fiber technician. But I tend to use my m12 drill/driver for drilling most holes in wood and only pull out the m18 hammer drill when necessary..
I carry a hammer drill and a rotary hammer. Sometimes the rotary is far too large to fit in some spots. Sometimes I don't want to lift a heavy ass rotary overhead for a couple hours at a time. Some anchors are so thin that a large bouncy rotary hammer will wallow out the hole as you drill and ruin the hole or force you to move your hole and change your layout when a hammer drill wouldn't. I run into this a lot with tapcons in particular. I'm an industrial mechanic by trade and have set 10's of thousands of anchors and have come to the conclusion that you need both to actually be efficient.
I specifically use my impact drivers to drive screws and lags, my SDS Plus and Max to bore or drill through concrete and my drill to drill holes in wood and metals.
I use a Milwaukee cordless 18v Hamer Drill when I drill holes in concrete for TapCon screws. The Hamer action combined with a good quality masonry bit works way better than an impact or regular drill...
I mainly use my M18 for drilling wood up to 1"holes with auger bits, 4⅛ & 6⅜" holesaws, and the ¼" masonry bit on hammer mode.
If I need bigger, deeper, or more, it's the SDS & HoleHawg all day.
Otherwise it's my M12 impact or M18 impact.
If I know I'll only need a couple small holes drilled, wood or fenceblock, I'm using the tiny M12 impact that fits almost anywhere
Is a smaller sds plus drill more versatile than a hammer drill with if you use chuck adapters
As was mentioned - you will use the hammer drill function for tapcons, and drill less than a couple concrete holes. If you’re drilling more than a couple of concrete holes you’re going to want to use the rotary sds.. every tool serves a purpose and for lightweight concrete drilling and or concrete tapcon mounting ect.. the hammer drill is excellent!
I work at a welding/fabrication shop that does some mechanical contracting and use my hammer drill frequently running anchors into concrete and block. I use my sds cordless when doing bigger wedge anchors but the hammer drill is awesome for smaller tasks that just use tapcons. I’m talking specific jobs where I may put in less than 10-20 tapcons on a jobsite.
Vince, you are correct. This is why I strictly use Flaced tools
Been working in construction from foundation to finish for 2 years now and have done personalized homes to comercial buildings...when im on a larger site and further from my tools, or working up high, I prefer to carry tools that can get most of my jobs done...I dont want to get weighed down by a bunch of tools, be running around more than necessary, or have more tools to carry up and down ladders, staging etc...hammer drill is the quick and dirty do all for anything that is gonna get covered up that can easily fit any bit/ doohickey i need. However i will say my impact gun is more comfortable to use in more situations
I’m a handyman. Why carry a bag with 3 tools when my hammer drill will do all of these jobs. It’s not enough heavier to wear me out. It actually saves time by not have to go get another tool or carry multiple tools on my belt when I’m 8 feet in the air putting anchors in a brick wall, and then need to drive the screws.
I’m a home owner, DIYer, couple odds and ends sides jobs, kinda guy and I will always own a drill/hammer drill combo. For drilling tapcons ect it’s all I need. That and my impact driver are the perfect combo.
Thanks for posting this. It got me thinking and I completely agree. Hammer drills cant do "Steck-Dreh-Sitz" ie. Insert-Twist-Stay (SDS), so I don't see the point. I'm a DIYer and will don't do heaps of power tool work. I'm opting for a Milwaukee compact drill/driver M12 and possibly a M12 FUEL 5/8” SDS Plus Rotary Hammer when that comes out.
I ice fishing a lot and a hammer is a must to drill 8 to 10 inch holes I used a regular brushless without the hammer once and it struggles
I agree somewhat but impacts to me are for driving fasteners and drills are for borring holes i have the m12 sds anything id use that my m18 drill for ill use the sds masonry wise
I use a hammer drill for drilling small holes in tile but I also own all the different styles of drills you spoke about. also a hammer drill will work when you need to drill holes for a few tapcons unexpectedly if you don't have a rotary hammer with you.
Thanks for another great video and not being scared of sharing a well-founded opinion!
My first reaction was to disagree with your statement. As a DIY enthusiast and sort of amateur Jack of all trades, my experience with my hammer drill is beyond positive. Besides drilling into (hard) concrete, I'm able to perform all kinds of tasks with this versatile tool. I think I even don't mind the weight issue, while I'm often using 1.5 or 2aH batteries.
However, nowadays I more often grab the more specialist tools when taking on bigger projects. When working all day on a renovation or any other type of project, it totally makes sense to be able to grab the specialist tool and switch tools to fit the needs. Why drill a hole with with your hammer drill and then switch bits to drive a screw into something?
I don't know why Vince is trolling hammer drills 😂, but Im a cable installer in Florida and more than 90% of the homes I install onto are masonry. I started with using a non hammer Craftsman. Totally changed the game for me when I upgraded to a Hanmer. It's not even a contest. Hammer is a must! Then, I use/carry my impact to drive the fasteners once the hammer makes the hole 🕳️. I'd rather carry my impact than unchuck and change bits to drive a 1/4 Nut tapcon with the hammer. So, I carry both.
Go Vince!
Your Wrong!
I pull it out when I need to use hole saws 1"+ and the occasional need for the Hammer Drill function.
I chose this instead of the regular Drill/Driver for these reasons. I get Drill/Hammer Drill.
I also have my hex Impact I use as a Drill/Driver with Spade Bits. Can't do Hole Saw with Impact.
Also good to have both to use at the same time to keep from continuously changing out bits for pilot holes.
Just drill & drive ambidextrous, lol.
👍
Well appreciate your input Redd, thanks!
What hammer drills are you talking about? Like the SDS max and plus ones? Because I can see the hammer drill symbol on the drill you are holding while you are telling me not to get it but also get it?
The whole is video is utter nonsense, don't bother. There are now powerful efficienct codless impact drills that screw mechanical bolt anchors into c40+ concrete without any sweat. As long as you're not demolishing concrete a quality high joule impact cordless drill can get most of the construction job done as of 2024.
@VCG Vince I think @ToolReviewZone has a video using his hammer drill to hammer nails. whats up with that?
Hammer nails? Wouldn’t surprise me Sam! 🤣
Wait..... you can't do that 🤷
My M12 hammer drill saved me numerous of times when I’m hanging cabinets in condos on concrete walls. Although it’s not used often, It’s a great function to have when needed!
I would actually disagree. For residential contractors who do renovations, its just too versatile to pass up. Having a single tool that can mix small batches of mud/thinset and drill holes in masonry/tile is an absolute win. For the size of jobs we did, having dedicated solutions would have been massive overkill and, honestly, a waste of money.
I've just bought the M12 Rotary hammer. When I'm drilling in a concrete wall I want that thing to hammer and not to gently vibrate it self through. But I mostly do drilling for 6 and 8mm, so M12 is the perfect specialised tool for the job.
I'm a warehouse technician who also does construction for the warehouse as needed (under a jack of all trades & master electrician who's also been a forman, superintendent, senior superintendent, and inspector). I don't really find myself needing to do stuff like coring or anything. Even drilling holes into concrete all day, it's usually for tapcons and anchors, drilling around 3/16" holes. I don't generally have a use for a rotary hammer, nor do I or the shop own one. My hammer drill isn't as fast as a rotary hammer but it does just fine. That and an impact are with me every day, as well as a handful of other tools as needed.
I have never used the hammer drill function on a drill/driver. I always go to the sds simply because it’s a lot faster. Especially when drilling large holes like 1/2” and 5/8” as we do for our pole sheds and the large anchors we use
I’m an electrical apprentice and I will say that yes you make a very good point BUT as you know, there’s always going to be that one or two times where you’re going to need a hammer drill so it just makes sense to spend the extra little $ to save yourself time in a pinch
As a DIYer I use my cordless drill drivers for general use. If I am drilling concrete or steel I will go for my old corded drill or drill press. But as you said it is the exception rather that the rule.
I carry the M12 Hammer/Drill/Driver in my truck at all times. Maybe drill a dozen holes a year in masonry with it, but it saves me from not remembering to bring the large hammer drill or if I need to drill a hole in masonry I wasn't planning on.
I'm not an exception to your argument as I'm more of a handyman working on jobs big and small. That being said, I recently had a lot of neighbours asking me to fit things like wall mounted lights on the outside of their houses and even basic things like putting up mirrors and picture frames. Initially I was carrying around my 18V SDS as well as my 12V installation driver. I recently decided to just take my old cheapo brushed Ryobi combi drill and had no issues at all. In fact, I realised that the combi drill was probably better suited in some of these applications. Living in the UK, I'm almost always dealing with brick walls, often rendered/plastered. The SDS sometimes feels too aggressive, especially on fragile surfaces prone to cracking or crumbling.
That being said, I agree that if you're working on the same specialised tasks on a regular basis, use the tool best suited for that job. Sometimes however, the hammer function on a combi drill IS the right tool.
Question what the best cordless hammer drill ? From Milwaukee
Just got the gen 4 hammer drill. I have an older brushed m12 drill/driver set. They can handle 80% of what I do around the house and restaurant. But I have the installation driver for doing shelves and random stuff. It's an awesome standalone drill. Has entirely replaced my old brushed m12 drill.
But the restaurants pre-fabbed with metal studs. And getting through those is a pain in the butt. Also occasionally have to punch through concrete or brick for running speaker wires. So I decided to just go ahead and invest in a drill that can do all that without cutting out. I don't think I need a new m12/m18 fuel impact until my old brushed m12 impact dies.
I’m a fiber and low voltage installation technician, and the hammer drill is used when needed. IE. making holes in mortar. The impacts can do it, but not as quickly as a hammer drill. I know what you mean, but it does have a purpose on my truck.
Sure came in handy when my wife needed 4 holes in her glazed ceramic pot. Don’t use it often but it keeps me from going to the shop to get my Bosch corded hammer drill MOST of the time.
As a electrician I think the hammer drill has its place, often times I’m hanging one or two boxes on a concrete slab and have to run conduit to those boxes. So I need to be able to drill 1/4” holes into concrete to put anchors in so I can mount my boxes and straps. Yes the rotary hammers are nice and I have a small one just for this stuff but Sometmes I’m parked far from where I’m working and if I’m only drilling like 4 holes it’s nice to have that function to save me time from walking back to my work van
Wait, Vince what about concrete bud? That’s pretty much the only reason I have mine in my bag but saves me taking the big guy of the truck for odd the of 1/4 inch hole for mushroom anchors and what’s not
My Milwaukee Gen 3 hammer drill is used for drilling holes, mixing paint, mixing joint compound, and mixing grout . As a DIY not professionally. I don't think I have ever switched it to hammer mode. I install fasteners with my gen 3 impact driver
Yo Vince! As a drywall punch out guy (for those who don't know what that means, sorry about your luck) the instant versatility of a hammer drill to drill/driver is priceless! One never knows when drilling into a slab one minute, then fastening track and studs into that slab the next minute, might be necessary. I swear by the hammer drill/driver. Though, these days, the installation drill is an awesome addition to a punch out person's arsenal. Thank you for the topic and God bless! 😁👍✌
Yes!
BOO-YAA!!!!
I have specialized tool in the van for bigger jobs, but I keep a few tools in my trunk like a hammer drill for small quick jobs. These are amazing for travel bags.
I use a hammer drill all the time for everything and I always have masonry bits in my backpack at all times. I mostly use smaller masonry fasteners and I don’t have to make the extra trip to the truck to get a hammer drill, because I already have it. If I’m doing bigger holes in masonry then I go get my rotary hammer drill and drills.
I would say that almost everyday I will use the hammer drill function at some point, it’s just the type of work I do.
It's better to have one versatile tool, than having to carry several different tools.
I use both a hammer drill and a rotary hammer, I use my hammer drill for installing small 5/32" tapcons and such, and save the big boy 1-9/16" rotary hammer for breaking up concrete or tile
You're absolutely right i use it a couple time and buy a rotary hammer, even a good hammer drill is really slow again a rotary hammer
I build and install wrought iron gates and fences. We use a corded hammer drill for every job since we always have an extension cord ran for our welder. But in the cases where it’s a quick install and don’t need to unload our cords we do use our cordless hammer drill for drilling into concrete, brick walls, and through stucco to install our anchors. Don’t really see the need to buy a dedicated cordless hammer drill so it’s worth the cost to me to have the hammer drill function on my regular drill.
My Makita hammer drill has been indispensable in installing and mounting sump pumps. I don't have to drag around my Bosch sds
Concrete. Nuff said
It’s a hammer drill vs SDS question remodel work for fastening stud with a tapcon to soft brick a sds will absolutely destroy the brick you’re trying to tie into but a the hammer drill packs just enough punch to make the hole without cracking or destroying the brick even with old block 40+ years old an sds is just too much that is the only purpose for my dewalt drill with the hammer function but 9/10 times I run it for standard wood drilling without hammer it’s nice to have the multi purpose tool
It’s a great tool for handymen , DIY/homeowners, or anyone that does relatively low volume of drilling. Definitely has its place and should not be deleted from the lineup. You can even use it for mixing mud if you’re smart about it
Yep 110% That’s why separate tools are sold. Rotary hammer is the only way to go!
As a multitrade. I'm always trying to streamline my kit. The standard box I carry now only has my M18 Fuel Impact Driver. I'd never drive screws with a hammer drill because the impact is so superior. And drilling with good impact compatible drill drill bits is also superior. There is a little more play in the bit, but that compensated for by less vibration were accuracy is concerned. Anything the impact can't drill out with a multimaterial bit on full speed is a job for the sds. The bit change is fast for instances where I'm drilling a countersink, then a plug hole, then driving the fastener. My hammer drill is obsolete. I'll probably replace it with an M12 impact. What would be useful is a clutched attachment for delicate work and drywall, but the trigger control is good enough for now.
damn it Vince. I wanted to say you are wrong... but you're right.
I just did (6) 5/16 holes to mount a TV in a cement wall today. I missed the rotary.
It's good for tapcons into foundation, and boaring wood out the 2 inch holes for the pvc, the two things I use it for. So its perfect for me. I use my SDS max for the masonry.
I don’t own one but my understanding is that a hammer drill has a feature where it doesn’t spin but oscillates in and out like an electric jackhammer for use with a chisel bit. I’m starting to doubt myself since that wasn’t mentioned as a reason to get one. What am I missing?
Vince, I work as a handyman, a jack of many trades and will tell you that I need tools that are kind of like me. I only use the hammer trill function when drilling through brick or concrete with masonry bits. I think using the HD function for anything else is moronic. Who tries to drill a precision hole in wood with a hole saw or spade bit dancing around. With the HD function my 4 year old DeWalt XR drill driver goes through most brick and masonry like a hot knife through butter. I've tried the same without the HD function and it was like a cold knife through frozen butter.
A cousin of mine wh9o has worked on construcion most of hi life as a woodworker always says "You're as good as your tools" and he is 100 percent correct. I'll say one thing though. Yesterday, I had to do some light work, and instead of using a drill and impact driver, I used the impact driver to both drill and fasten. I think for around the house, this is all I need. I'll save the M18 and M12 Fuel drills for more intense work, or to hand off to a worker doing a job for me when I think their tool is inferior.
As a handyman I like to have a hammer drill. I’m just setting small Tapcon screws. I have an SDS but it stays in the shed until a job needs it.
I'm gonna be straight honest here, i have a milwaukee m12 hammerdrill, and for me as a service electrician, i can do everything with it from concrete and bricks with the hammer function to drywall. i can do it all. it is a differend discussion for when i am working on a construction site were I have to drill bigger holes through Deeper concrete walls. at that point i am switching to the m18 rotery hammer. one downside is that is it so freaking heavy, so drilling in a place that is JUST about to be out of reach can be pretty hard.
I agree a hammer drill is not the same as a dedicated rotary drill BUT for a while I could not buy a dedicated rotary drill and the small jobs I was doing my m18 hammer drill was getting the job done. Drilling 3/4x8" size anchor holes for post and whatnot, it served its purpose and got the job done, now I have the fuel m18 hammer drill big boy and its truly much better at drilling through concrete but if need be I can go back to my hammer drill and assist in any job of space is a issue.
If you're a homeowner that hammer drill is the only drill you need. If you're a pro and need to go to a rush job and don't have a truck full of tools, grab that hammer drill and it will get whatever job completed. It's not the best tool for ever application but it can get the job done whether it's boring holes thru wood, drilling into concrete, or installing fasteners
M12 Surge with a 5.0ho and Bosch 12v Flexclick. Can’t beat the quality in both, I highly recommend them
As a sparky I use the hammer drill for holes of any kind ever day. Rarely do I used the hammer function because I always use an SDS cuz it’s way better. But every now and then I’m in a pinch and need to throw in an anchor and don’t have the sds readily available and it’s nice to just use the hammer drill for a quick anchor or two.
Completely agree for wood working I use that installation driver 99% of the time and for work I use m12 impact or m12 hammer drill for a majority of the work the only true reason I even updated my m18 hammer drill is that’s the best tool to use with another specialty tool I got called a surewinder to wind garage door springs
I agree with Vince on this. I use an impact driver for screws. But, I do have to drill holes in concrete, so I use a corded hammer drill or rotary hammer for that. A cordless tool would chew up all my batteries before I might finish the job.
Yep my installation driver and m12 impact get 99%of my drilling and driving uses. I recently used my m18 fuel hammer drill to split in half a bunch of retaining wall bricks to use as weights for stickered lumber. But outside of that I’ll take lightweight anyday
Right On, i´m a newbie DIY and a rotary for stone/cement and impact for screwing, love from Portugal
We have to use compact hamer drills for drilling through stainless steel at my job and a rotary hamers just to big for the freezer
In my job I drill and drive screws every day. Half of those holes are in tile. So i run my sub compact makita hammer drill in my tool bag and nothing else. I use to run a normal drill driver and break out the big hammer drill as needed but feel now there is no need to make that additional trip back to the van.