Timmah!! Appreciate what you do for the Toyota community. Your videos have helped hundreds. With that said, this video makes me appreciate my 5vz-fe even more.
Great, informative video Tim. This video made me appreciate how much easier the 3.4 is to service. When you were pulling that first valve cover off all I could think is damn, that’s going to be tough to reinstall and make sure the new gasket doesn’t get disturbed. Great job on getting it back together.
@@nathanshaffer5105 That will work. An extra set of hand to get the valve cover out and back in is ideal. The rest you can do on your own. I suggest taking breaks because it's a bit of a back-breaker job leaning over the engine for hours. I didn't have the luxury of taking my time because I had to get Zach home. I would do this over a 2-day period. Doing the whole job in one day is very tiring.
@@nathanshaffer5105 Yep, smart choice. Just all the electrical connectors and harness connections are a huge time sink. For the electrical connectors, definitely use that trick with the pick tool to assist releasing the connector. It lessens the amount of swearing involved fighting the connectors.
Yessir another Yota master class!!! Finally had some time to sit down and watch the pro’s do what they do!! Much appreciated!!! God bless~ Edit: the modern day Haynes manual, colorized 2024
Thanks for all the lessons. I think all that work makes pulling the engine out and doing a core swap or at least swap all common failures more reasonable.
@@emmcee476I unbolted everything holding the coolant lines. Can’t remember how many exactly but I believe 2 10mm near the thermostat. A couple 10mm bolts on the valve cover itself and 2 12mm on the valve cover I believe. If you remove them all with a buddy you’ll be able to move those lines out the way and lift the valve cover towards the front and out. I have a small clip on my channel showing the valve cover off with the coolant lines connected. Hope that helps.
@@emmcee476 glad that helps. Maybe this weekend I can post a quick over view of everything I removed. I would highly recommend the lisle electrical disconnect pliers and a swivel head 1/4 ratchet. They aren’t necessary but will save you so much time.
This is one of the most comprehensive and informed videos on how to do something I’ve ever watched. My 5.7 needs to have this done and your video is convinced me not to try it lol. I would never remember where and how to put all these connections back even with taking pictures. Could you tell me what I would expect to pay a mechanic to do this job in 2024? Thanks!!
@redskinman0 Thanks for the compliment of our work. We pride ourselves in the level of detail we offer our viewers. Don't sell yourself short. You could easily do it. A trick to remembering where things go is by using a color pen marking system, or you could apply tape to each side of a hose connection and use a lettering or numbering system. Electrical connectors are usually different sizes and shapes, and you can't mess up reconnecting them. Trust me, it looks intimidating, but if you take your time and stay organized, you can do it. A shop is going to charge quite a bit for this, but I don't know how much since it depends on their hourly labor rate and how many hours they bill for the job.
I found the best way to remove the spark plug tube seals was to use an angled tip small prybar and hammer the end in the gap between the seal and the valve cover, then once underneath pry it out. You really need the angled tip so you can get under the seal without gouging the valve cover.
How did you find out the gasket needed to be replaced? Was there any symptoms you noticed ? Like performance? Other than oil on the spark plug or tubes … Thanks
I can't remember if this was the case for him, but usually you'll start smelling burning oil inside the cab of your rig, and that's because oil is dripping onto the hot exhaust manifolds and burning off.
Quick question.... would the oil leaking into the coil pack tube cause a random misfire.. I keep having a random misfire on cylinder 4 and I've noticed it has oil in it. Thanks for the reply and great video
It could be the cause of the misfire. Pull the coil pack and the spark plug. The oil will drain into the cylinder. Clean up the coil pack and reinstall spark plug and coil pack and see if the misfire disappears. If it doesn't, swap coil packs and see if the misfire follows that coil pack from cylinder 4.
Thanks I'll give it a try. I love my tundra 5.7 it has 300+k miles on it I don't have much problems with it but it seems that when I do it's a hell of a repair everytime. Just a FYI... never try to take the transmission pan bolts out.. Just drain the fluid and replace.. I did mine and all but 2 bolts broke before coming out. It's a very common thing
@@chrisbruce7594 That's good to know about the transmission pan bolts. I don't think I'll try to remove one unless absolutely necessary like to replace shift solenoids. This was my 2nd time working on this engine, and it was no doubt a pain in the butt. All those electrical connections to disconnect and the wiring harness connections to disconnect in order to remove the valve covers made this job a hassle. This video will make it easier for people because we take the guesswork out of what needs to be disconnected, but regardless, you still have to fight all those connectors which is not fun.
@thinshadow551 The spark plug tube seals were leaking and allowing the spark plug tubes to fill with engine oil. There wasn't a misfire yet, but it would have eventually caused when enough engine oil fouled out one of the coil packs.
I have this task coming up as I noticed some oil doing my spark plug, this looks like the worst valve cover job possible on a vehicle And I’ve done full engine swaps before, I’m dreading this
Great videos! I really appreciate the time you dedicate to helping us. I have two questions, if you don't mind. Firstly, if I find oil only in one spark plug on the passenger side after changing them, should I replace the valve gasket (and spark plug gaskets) on both the passenger and driver sides? Secondly, is there a concern about using a torque wrench for the spark plugs? I've noticed you emphasize using a torque wrench in your other videos, so I was surprised not to see it used for the spark plugs. I plan on doing this job on a 2010 Sequoia with 290K miles. Thanks again for the informative content!
If you find oil in any spark plug tube, I'd do the full job because others will leak as time goes on. You can't go wrong with using a torque wrench. It's just that the guy I was helping wanted to do it by feel.
Timmah!! Appreciate what you do for the Toyota community. Your videos have helped hundreds. With that said, this video makes me appreciate my 5vz-fe even more.
Yeah, this 3UR engine is not as easy to work on for sure. Big pain in the butt.
Great, informative video Tim.
This video made me appreciate how much easier the 3.4 is to service.
When you were pulling that first valve cover off all I could think is damn, that’s going to be tough to reinstall and make sure the new gasket doesn’t get disturbed.
Great job on getting it back together.
Thanks Ben. Yeah, this job was definitely a 5VZ-FE Appreciation Day. It's way harder to do a valve cover gasket job on the 3UR-FE engine.
I will be doing this later in the year thanks for the video.
You're welcome. Get a buddy to help you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm stuck with my wife helping lol
@@nathanshaffer5105 That will work. An extra set of hand to get the valve cover out and back in is ideal. The rest you can do on your own. I suggest taking breaks because it's a bit of a back-breaker job leaning over the engine for hours. I didn't have the luxury of taking my time because I had to get Zach home. I would do this over a 2-day period. Doing the whole job in one day is very tiring.
@TimmyTheToolman Yes I was thinking this would be a multi-stage job just take your time and when frustration sets in take a break.
@@nathanshaffer5105 Yep, smart choice. Just all the electrical connectors and harness connections are a huge time sink. For the electrical connectors, definitely use that trick with the pick tool to assist releasing the connector. It lessens the amount of swearing involved fighting the connectors.
Yessir another Yota master class!!! Finally had some time to sit down and watch the pro’s do what they do!! Much appreciated!!!
God bless~
Edit: the modern day Haynes manual, colorized 2024
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Great vid. The thoroughness we wish EVERY helpful diy vid had. Much appreciated.
Spoken like a true American 🇺🇸
Thanks for all the lessons. I think all that work makes pulling the engine out and doing a core swap or at least swap all common failures more reasonable.
You're welcome.
Just did mine your video was a huge help! I didn’t remove the coolant lines and had enough room.
@@SometimesDIY I'm glad our video helped you get the job done. Good job!
9:32 Did you unbolt that metal coolant tube next to the valve cover to give more room?
@@emmcee476I unbolted everything holding the coolant lines. Can’t remember how many exactly but I believe 2 10mm near the thermostat. A couple 10mm bolts on the valve cover itself and 2 12mm on the valve cover I believe. If you remove them all with a buddy you’ll be able to move those lines out the way and lift the valve cover towards the front and out. I have a small clip on my channel showing the valve cover off with the coolant lines connected. Hope that helps.
@@SometimesDIY that helps a lot. Thanks. I will be doing this job soon and wanted to make sure I don't have to deal with opening the cooling system
@@emmcee476 glad that helps. Maybe this weekend I can post a quick over view of everything I removed. I would highly recommend the lisle electrical disconnect pliers and a swivel head 1/4 ratchet. They aren’t necessary but will save you so much time.
Great video work and commentary! tops
@@savagesteve5894 Thanks for the compliment.
This is one of the most comprehensive and informed videos on how to do something I’ve ever watched. My 5.7 needs to have this done and your video is convinced me not to try it lol. I would never remember where and how to put all these connections back even with taking pictures. Could you tell me what I would expect to pay a mechanic to do this job in 2024? Thanks!!
@redskinman0 Thanks for the compliment of our work. We pride ourselves in the level of detail we offer our viewers.
Don't sell yourself short. You could easily do it. A trick to remembering where things go is by using a color pen marking system, or you could apply tape to each side of a hose connection and use a lettering or numbering system. Electrical connectors are usually different sizes and shapes, and you can't mess up reconnecting them. Trust me, it looks intimidating, but if you take your time and stay organized, you can do it.
A shop is going to charge quite a bit for this, but I don't know how much since it depends on their hourly labor rate and how many hours they bill for the job.
what great timing. very grateful you made this video
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Man I really wish other things in the world were made like Toyotas!!😂 Great vid Timm-ay!
Thanks! Yeah, Toyota Engineering is pretty nice.
Thanks! Yeah, Toyota Engineering is pretty nice.
I found the best way to remove the spark plug tube seals was to use an angled tip small prybar and hammer the end in the gap between the seal and the valve cover, then once underneath pry it out. You really need the angled tip so you can get under the seal without gouging the valve cover.
Thanks for sharing the tip. I would have to see your technique in action before I'd give it my seal of approval. Pun intended.
How did you find out the gasket needed to be replaced? Was there any symptoms you noticed ? Like performance? Other than oil on the spark plug or tubes …
Thanks
I can't remember if this was the case for him, but usually you'll start smelling burning oil inside the cab of your rig, and that's because oil is dripping onto the hot exhaust manifolds and burning off.
Thanks you very much. Very clear. Explain 👍👍
@nasariomendez3924 You're very welcome. I hope the job goes smoothly for you.
Quick question.... would the oil leaking into the coil pack tube cause a random misfire.. I keep having a random misfire on cylinder 4 and I've noticed it has oil in it. Thanks for the reply and great video
It could be the cause of the misfire. Pull the coil pack and the spark plug. The oil will drain into the cylinder. Clean up the coil pack and reinstall spark plug and coil pack and see if the misfire disappears. If it doesn't, swap coil packs and see if the misfire follows that coil pack from cylinder 4.
Thanks I'll give it a try. I love my tundra 5.7 it has 300+k miles on it I don't have much problems with it but it seems that when I do it's a hell of a repair everytime. Just a FYI... never try to take the transmission pan bolts out.. Just drain the fluid and replace.. I did mine and all but 2 bolts broke before coming out. It's a very common thing
@@chrisbruce7594 That's good to know about the transmission pan bolts. I don't think I'll try to remove one unless absolutely necessary like to replace shift solenoids.
This was my 2nd time working on this engine, and it was no doubt a pain in the butt. All those electrical connections to disconnect and the wiring harness connections to disconnect in order to remove the valve covers made this job a hassle.
This video will make it easier for people because we take the guesswork out of what needs to be disconnected, but regardless, you still have to fight all those connectors which is not fun.
@@TimmyTheToolman Was this engine misfiring or just leaking valve covers?
@thinshadow551 The spark plug tube seals were leaking and allowing the spark plug tubes to fill with engine oil. There wasn't a misfire yet, but it would have eventually caused when enough engine oil fouled out one of the coil packs.
I have this task coming up as I noticed some oil doing my spark plug, this looks like the worst valve cover job possible on a vehicle
And I’ve done full engine swaps before, I’m dreading this
@@DBTUNED-CT I have to admit, it's not an easy valve cover gasket job to do, but if you follow our video, you'll have an easier time than we did.
Great videos! I really appreciate the time you dedicate to helping us. I have two questions, if you don't mind. Firstly, if I find oil only in one spark plug on the passenger side after changing them, should I replace the valve gasket (and spark plug gaskets) on both the passenger and driver sides? Secondly, is there a concern about using a torque wrench for the spark plugs? I've noticed you emphasize using a torque wrench in your other videos, so I was surprised not to see it used for the spark plugs. I plan on doing this job on a 2010 Sequoia with 290K miles. Thanks again for the informative content!
If you find oil in any spark plug tube, I'd do the full job because others will leak as time goes on. You can't go wrong with using a torque wrench. It's just that the guy I was helping wanted to do it by feel.
At least all the bolts come out without breaking.. unlike the transmission pan bolts
Dealer quoted me only $350 for the labor for both banks. How come is so cheap...for that hard project or they just gave me wrong quote?
@@alexg5531 hard to say, but you may want to take them up on their quote. Seems like a steal!
- Sean
O cool engine !
Yeah, it's a cool engine, but fairly involved to work on. Maybe as I do more jobs on it, I'll find more things I like about it.
Looks like someone neglected to change oil at regular intervals.
Yeah, I noticed that as well, but I've seen much much worse.
I can't stand those zip-tie-clip things that Toyota likes to use on their harnesses. Pain in the ass.
Yeah, serious pain in the ass. I'm not a fan of the Toyota Engineer who came up with that design.
🫡
Good helpful vedeo thanks
@3stargarage Thanks, and you're very welcome!