3:42 This may be pedantic, but the 40 at the end of 4140, and the 50 at the end of 4150 is 0.40%, and 0.50% rather than 40% and 50%. Once steel gets to greater than 2% carbon it becomes cast iron. 4140 and 4150 are both towards the lower end of the medium carbon steel range.
The video as well as the comment section, definitely taught me more than I ever knew about barrels and metals, period. Thanks to all of you. Is nice to see so many polite and informative comments amongst the shooting community!
Opening- "I found a detent so built a lower" -I'm listening now and trying to find a buffer tube detent to finish my m5 lower...I know I have several somewhere. All done as soon as I find one. Even checking my parts tray magnets lol.
Metallurgical engineer here. Youve just mixed guns and metals, my two favorite things. There are many materials that will work. 4100 series are chrome-moly steels that have have good hardenabilty and solution hardening. Vanadium creates a stable carbide that tends to pin grain boundaries and prevent your barrel's temper from an unintended heat treat. PH stainless steels are cool because they're an example of thermodynamics coming into play. The precipitation hardening comes from supersaturated materials that form secondary phases.
CMV and the comparable FN alloy was developed to reduce the stress relief scrap rate. Cold worked 4100 forget and button barrels have high residual stress and shift impact point with temperature. So much marketing BS on this subject.
One big reason I love my Ballistic Advantage Premium black series barrel is that it is both 416R stainless, but also has a very very good melonite treatment. I don't think I will wear it out in my lifetime.
EXCELLENT job of making some rather nerdy information interesting and understandable! The original AR15/M16s actually had a 1/14 twist; cold weather problems caused the change to 1/12. The reason parkerizing is 'porous' is to trap and hold oil against the steel, keeping water away. The park itself doesn't protect the metal. Chrome is still considered superior to nitride for high-volume (full-auto) use; for semi-auto only, nitride is a more economical option.
I have a 1-14 , almost threw it out, but ended up going through parts one day and realized I had enough to build an upper. The best (chrome lined chamber??? ) 22lr designated upper in my collection. 1-7 & 1-8 twist kinda suck for 22lr.
Engineer here, stainless steel is not actually stainless. It forms a THIN layer of oxide that prevents rust and oxidation. Repeatedly scrubbing that layer of oxide will cause pitting and rusting (such as a bullet passing through the barrel). That's why we don't use stainless steel in ships. Full austenitic steels with high carbon, chromium, nickel and molybdenum contents are way better for longevity and rust resistance (for example, suitable for a beater gun)
Can we get an episode in triggers? What causes take up, crispness, how they exactly operate with the spring and bar? Differences between Glock and Canik (just an example)?
@@JOHN-hf9ow I’d like to see something in handgun triggers as well. Ways we can improve them and what physically/mechanically makes aftermarket triggers better than stock
Suggestion: How to zero your AR with different optics for new shooters. I know it’d def help all the new folks out there. Also include the types of zeroing targets out their.
Guys, steel is NOT predominently alloyed with carbon; carbon is necessary for iron to become steel, but it is actually a very small percentage of the make-up of steel. Also, for example, the "40" in 4140 steel is NOT 40% carbon, it is more like 0.40% carbon. Enjoyed the video, though. Keep 'em coming.
18:30 Nient, it is 3 line rifle because 1/10th of an inch in Russian is 1 line, .30 inch=3 line. That's why the previous service rifle, the berdan II, .42 cal was the 4.2 line rifle.
This video couldn't have come at a more perfect time as I am sourcing parts to build an AR. I knew CHF was great but this solidified my choice and I learned a ton. PSA has some great deals on CHF uppers right now y'all.
can you cover AR-15 bolt extractor configurations... i.e. 4 wire and 5 wire springs, copper and steel springs, spring inserts, donuts, extractor steels, etc.
I built a "doomsday" AR Around my budget at the time and this video basically told me that the barrel I chose was perfect for what I needed. Yuns are super knowledgeable and I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work look for to more videos.
17-4 PH has the strength of 400 series stainless with the corrosion resistance of 300 series... It is super cool. It was developed for the nuclear power industry and it has low neutron absorption...
An important note for cold hammer forged barrels vs cut rifled. Cold hammer forging can also produce fantastically accurate barrels, but it is not guaranteed to, it depends highly on the quality and tolerance that the mandrel is held to in its manufacturing process, and how often the mandrel is replaced due to wear. There are cold hammer forged barrels that come from very high quality companies like Daniel Defense and Tikka that are extremely durable AND accurate, but not all cold hammer forged barrels are created equal. The best option for a reasonable "guarantee" of accuracy is cut rifled, the best for longevity "by a long shot" (pun intended) is cold hammer forged which is capable of being but not guaranteed to be extremely accurate as well. Ruger also produces very good cold hammer forged barrels, but I wouldn't quite put them in the same category as Tikka or DD, but for the price you pay they are excellent. I have a Ruger American with a CHF barrel in 7mm-08 that is an absolute tack driver with good ammo or handloads.
I work in a Stainless Steel Melt Shop in Ky. We just call it Moly-denum (Molybdenum). My works recent purchase for FeMo is $29 a Kg. We add about 2-3k per 316 heat.
Harmonics play a factor in the accuracy of a barrel. You mentioned the rifling and the composition of the barrels but I’m wondering if trimming a barrels length to match the harmonics would make a significant difference in the accuracy of a barrel. Also the degree cut at the muzzle. Or target crown. Make a video talking about these please.
CHF barrel, but where the chamber and leade were forged contemporaneously as well. Many CHF barrels have the *rifling* cold hammer forged, but the chamber and leade are broach cut or rotary cut. CHF 4150CMV, cryo treated, hard chrome lined, hand-lapped after chrome-lining, & phosphated exterior. 👍😎
Well that makes me feel better about my current AR10 build using a 416R cold hammer forged barrel, as I’m pretty new to this I got it because it had the most good reviews 😆
Yeah, kinda sad they missed this. It makes their "expert" seem less believable. I mean, I am sure he knows what makes good barrel steel, but if he is gonna talk about alloy composition, he should brush up before a video.
When he went on to 4150, he said it was 50% carbon. Then he started off explaining the nitride process correctly by explaining that it was not a coating, then he ended it by incorrectly saying that it was a coating. Would have been interesting if he had an aneurysm trying to explain a 416R with a QPQ nitride finish.
1/7 is for heavy bullets like 77 grain. 1/8 is good all around so 55 and 62 (most common) will get accurate results. 1/9 was the 70’s standard, 55 grain.
Not sure I agree with your take on button rifling vs cut. Button rifling is like ballizing, you push a precision carbide tool and it makes a very precise size hole in the metal. Ballizing is one of the most accurate ways to make a hole.
I was thinking matt needs his own segment called ( after midnight with Matt ) because everybody seems to but in Matt’s videos when he’s trying to teach us gun guys and gals. So I figure do it when everyone is gone. Lol.who’s with me
I work with all those metals with my job. I make screws and bolts and sell them to many gun companies. It used to be a lot more before CT chased everyone away. I laughed my ass off with those explanations. He gets a solid B and did hit some key points.
Hi guys. Great video My Question: Are there cleaning solvents you should avoid with certain barrels? For instance I've heard that you should avoid ammonia based solvents that remove copper because they can etch stainless barrels that have a high sulfur content. True? Any other similar solvent issues we should be aware of? Thanks - Ted
I would love to see an update including things like anti walk barrel designs and chryo treatments vs blueing and parker coatings. Also profile cuts for harmonics are limited by material and treatments internaly and externaly. Other than that this was a great video and i had no idea there was material intentionaly impregnated with impurity.
"Carbon steel" typically refers to softer weldable steels like A36. Barrel and blade steels are known as "alloy" steels. The last pair of numbers in alloy designations is the percent of carbon, but not as you stated. 4140 is not 40%, it is 0.40% carbon. 4140 is less popular for AR barrels, but it is still extremely common for bolt actions. Some mil-spec barrels are 4350, which adds nickel to the alloy. Also, most precision competition barrels are button rifled; the difference is the follow up treatment, such as lapping of the barrel.
well...my basic radical rf-15 came with a nitrided 4140 barrel; I am not a high volume or rapid rate shooter & I expect the barrel to serve me well for a good long time
"I found a detent so I had to build another one" LMFAO when I get enough parts put aside from upgrading other guns I'll put together a "free rifle" with all those parts. Then I'll shoot it for a little while then tell the ol lady I think I'm going to start upgrading this one. Eventually all those same parts I started with will get put back together as another "free rifle" and the cycle starts over again... LOL
I have worked in the fiberglass/FRP industry for a long time and I have seen the possibilities of these materials and what they are capable of. It is cheaper and easier to work with and the cost of it has steadily decreased as the cost of metals and wood have increased. With the strength and durability of the CLOTHS themselves, carbon fiber, kevlar, polypropylene, why not do away with the metal lining all together. Most fiberglass type materials can withstand high temperatures, are burn proof/resistant, can be extremely hard and flexible at the same time, all of which make them perfect for barrels. We use it for uppers and lowers so why not at least have barrels made of it for bolt action or semiautomatic rifles. I want to make clear that my experience with all of these materials has been in using them to make and repair almost anything and not in a lab or scientifically studying their chemical makeup. I am from the usage side of products. It just seems that we should be able to do it.
3:30 Wait, going from .40% carbon to .50% is an increase of 25% more carbon, not 10%. You've increased the overall RATIO of carbon-steel by .10% but that "ten percent" is one-quarter of what you'd previously been using, hence a 25% increase OVERALL.
So, I’m shooting my AR with my new cast iron barrel, everything seems to be going well, I’m thinking I should take all of the springs out of my guns and use those space aged rubber bands. What do you think guys?
19:00, #2A, because of the time it makes arms especially (California, Massachusetts.. antigun laws) we're to have arms to #defend 🇺🇸 Constitution & citizens from tyranny foreign and or domestic
Years ago when building AR's was the craze, i bought a Daniel Defense m4 barrel. The barrel costed 389$ itself Got atleast 2k rounds through the barrel & seems like it keeps getting more accurate. Buy once, Cry once i guess. I'm truly satisfied with it. 1-7 turn wished it was 1n8.. but its a highly accurate .
3:42 This may be pedantic, but the 40 at the end of 4140, and the 50 at the end of 4150 is 0.40%, and 0.50% rather than 40% and 50%. Once steel gets to greater than 2% carbon it becomes cast iron. 4140 and 4150 are both towards the lower end of the medium carbon steel range.
idk if correcting an error of 2 orders of magnitude is being pedantic
@@tylerihrke4657 good correction and explanation G
Technically correct, the best kind of correct according to a Jamaican Martian from the year 3000
Thank you, glad I saw your post before I posted something.
I wasn't sure and almost came away thinking i was wrong until i was vindicated by your post 😂 thanks.
I am pretty sure the carbon content is 0.40, or 0.50%, not 40, or 50% as even cast iron has a much lower carbon content than 40%.
This is correct.
Yup I’m a machinist and I was going to comment this too
@@koyota6822 Same. Looking for a comment like this.
David is Correct, those decimal points matter lol. If it were 40-50% carbon I doubt it'd work well. They are 96-98% Iron.
@@koyota6822 so is there a quick answer to what's the preferred material for a barrel?
The video as well as the comment section, definitely taught me more than I ever knew about barrels and metals, period. Thanks to all of you. Is nice to see so many polite and informative comments amongst the shooting community!
Opening- "I found a detent so built a lower"
-I'm listening now and trying to find a buffer tube detent to finish my m5 lower...I know I have several somewhere. All done as soon as I find one. Even checking my parts tray magnets lol.
Metallurgical engineer here. Youve just mixed guns and metals, my two favorite things. There are many materials that will work. 4100 series are chrome-moly steels that have have good hardenabilty and solution hardening. Vanadium creates a stable carbide that tends to pin grain boundaries and prevent your barrel's temper from an unintended heat treat. PH stainless steels are cool because they're an example of thermodynamics coming into play. The precipitation hardening comes from supersaturated materials that form secondary phases.
I agree!!
Thank you.
CMV and the comparable FN alloy was developed to reduce the stress relief scrap rate. Cold worked 4100 forget and button barrels have high residual stress and shift impact point with temperature. So much marketing BS on this subject.
@Buzz360 huh
@El Ingeniero huh
Bro what
One big reason I love my Ballistic Advantage Premium black series barrel is that it is both 416R stainless, but also has a very very good melonite treatment. I don't think I will wear it out in my lifetime.
Yeah, a big fan of BA myself. Good barrels at a reasonable price.
Now you're thinkin' right.
This is amusing. I literally just start looking up the difference between different type of barrel a couple days ago. Now you guys made a video on it
EXCELLENT job of making some rather nerdy information interesting and understandable!
The original AR15/M16s actually had a 1/14 twist; cold weather problems caused the change to 1/12.
The reason parkerizing is 'porous' is to trap and hold oil against the steel, keeping water away. The park itself doesn't protect the metal.
Chrome is still considered superior to nitride for high-volume (full-auto) use; for semi-auto only, nitride is a more economical option.
I have a 1-14 , almost threw it out, but ended up going through parts one day and realized I had enough to build an upper. The best (chrome lined chamber??? ) 22lr designated upper in my collection. 1-7 & 1-8 twist kinda suck for 22lr.
Engineer here, stainless steel is not actually stainless. It forms a THIN layer of oxide that prevents rust and oxidation. Repeatedly scrubbing that layer of oxide will cause pitting and rusting (such as a bullet passing through the barrel). That's why we don't use stainless steel in ships. Full austenitic steels with high carbon, chromium, nickel and molybdenum contents are way better for longevity and rust resistance (for example, suitable for a beater gun)
Can we get an episode in triggers? What causes take up, crispness, how they exactly operate with the spring and bar? Differences between Glock and Canik (just an example)?
There are some really helpful animations on how this works on TH-cam, for example "M16 and AR-15 - How firearms work!"
@@JOHN-hf9ow I’d like to see something in handgun triggers as well. Ways we can improve them and what physically/mechanically makes aftermarket triggers better than stock
Criterion, FN, and Rosco have been my main ports of call.
Suggestion: How to zero your AR with different optics for new shooters. I know it’d def help all the new folks out there. Also include the types of zeroing targets out their.
There is a phenomenal video about zeros and scope height with amazing graphics if you are interested reply to this and I will find the video for you
The Hardwell Rockness scale @7:57 is my favorite scale.
Lol machinist?
@@joefein9469 engineer
Didn’t know eyecrometer transferred to c scale.
Guys, steel is NOT predominently alloyed with carbon; carbon is necessary for iron to become steel, but it is actually a very small percentage of the make-up of steel. Also, for example, the "40" in 4140 steel is NOT 40% carbon, it is more like 0.40% carbon. Enjoyed the video, though. Keep 'em coming.
Also love the videos, and came to make this same correction! Like 1095 high carbon steel is near .95% carbon. Solid episode either way!
I’m enjoying the “Classic Firearms University” type videos. Keep them coming!!
18:30 Nient, it is 3 line rifle because 1/10th of an inch in Russian is 1 line, .30 inch=3 line. That's why the previous service rifle, the berdan II, .42 cal was the 4.2 line rifle.
This video couldn't have come at a more perfect time as I am sourcing parts to build an AR. I knew CHF was great but this solidified my choice and I learned a ton. PSA has some great deals on CHF uppers right now y'all.
can you cover AR-15 bolt extractor configurations... i.e. 4 wire and 5 wire springs, copper and steel springs, spring inserts, donuts, extractor steels, etc.
this video was literally put out as i was searching for a good "best barrel" video. for my build... nice
I built a "doomsday" AR Around my budget at the time and this video basically told me that the barrel I chose was perfect for what I needed. Yuns are super knowledgeable and I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work look for to more videos.
Yuns?
@@jimklemens5018"Yuns" = "you ones" or you people.
@@theoverunderthinker What state are you in?
@@jimklemens5018 like the song says "I've been everywhere"
but feels like it was SE US slang.
A word used daily here in Tennessee and throughout the South !
17-4 PH has the strength of 400 series stainless with the corrosion resistance of 300 series... It is super cool. It was developed for the nuclear power industry and it has low neutron absorption...
Its also used very often in the medical industry.
I am a machinist and we make tools for bone surgery from 17-4PH.
Faxon barrels for the win
An important note for cold hammer forged barrels vs cut rifled.
Cold hammer forging can also produce fantastically accurate barrels, but it is not guaranteed to, it depends highly on the quality and tolerance that the mandrel is held to in its manufacturing process, and how often the mandrel is replaced due to wear. There are cold hammer forged barrels that come from very high quality companies like Daniel Defense and Tikka that are extremely durable AND accurate, but not all cold hammer forged barrels are created equal.
The best option for a reasonable "guarantee" of accuracy is cut rifled, the best for longevity "by a long shot" (pun intended) is cold hammer forged which is capable of being but not guaranteed to be extremely accurate as well.
Ruger also produces very good cold hammer forged barrels, but I wouldn't quite put them in the same category as Tikka or DD, but for the price you pay they are excellent. I have a Ruger American with a CHF barrel in 7mm-08 that is an absolute tack driver with good ammo or handloads.
Killing it gang. Keep it up, these videos keep getting better. Send more Matt with those knowledge dumps!
I really appreciate these videos. I’m going to school to be a gunsmith. Very good video
I work in a Stainless Steel Melt Shop in Ky. We just call it Moly-denum (Molybdenum). My works recent purchase for FeMo is $29 a Kg. We add about 2-3k per 316 heat.
Harmonics play a factor in the accuracy of a barrel. You mentioned the rifling and the composition of the barrels but I’m wondering if trimming a barrels length to match the harmonics would make a significant difference in the accuracy of a barrel. Also the degree cut at the muzzle. Or target crown. Make a video talking about these please.
@@no-ir6vu thanks for the reply
I used to work for a guy that took about a quarter inch off of the ruger barrel and made it shoot sub MOA my way
CHF barrel, but where the chamber and leade were forged contemporaneously as well. Many CHF barrels have the *rifling* cold hammer forged, but the chamber and leade are broach cut or rotary cut.
CHF 4150CMV, cryo treated, hard chrome lined, hand-lapped after chrome-lining, & phosphated exterior. 👍😎
Who sells such a barrel?
@@LaymensLameMan I know Bill G$ makes his CHF barrels that way.
Another awesome video. Learned a lot about barrels I never knew.
As a materials engineer I approve this content. Good stuff, guys!
Well that makes me feel better about my current AR10 build using a 416R cold hammer forged barrel, as I’m pretty new to this I got it because it had the most good reviews 😆
Absolutely great video guys! Very informative.
AISI 4140 steel is 0.4% carbon not 40% carbon
When he said 40% I was sure he was incorrect. That amount of carbon would be useless for a barrel or pretty much anything really.
I'm glad you said something. Those barrels would've worked better for motor contacts
Yeah, kinda sad they missed this. It makes their "expert" seem less believable. I mean, I am sure he knows what makes good barrel steel, but if he is gonna talk about alloy composition, he should brush up before a video.
When he went on to 4150, he said it was 50% carbon. Then he started off explaining the nitride process correctly by explaining that it was not a coating, then he ended it by incorrectly saying that it was a coating. Would have been interesting if he had an aneurysm trying to explain a 416R with a QPQ nitride finish.
What I find interesting is how they push for the carbon fiber barrels as if they are the best barrels…
Love these in-depth videos! Keep it up!
Wow. Thank you. This FINALLY gave me the info/answer I was looking for. Much appreciated.
I think you are not giving button rifled barrels a fair shake. They are generally extremely accurate and are use by most benchrest shooters.
CHF have a HIGHER profit margins.
CHF/CL.. suits my needs for ARs and AKs.
1:8 twist rate I have found to be best as far as accuracy. CHF/melonite coated pinned gas block. That's my fav.
Do you know who makes them
1/7 is for heavy bullets like 77 grain. 1/8 is good all around so 55 and 62 (most common) will get accurate results. 1/9 was the 70’s standard, 55 grain.
Love ya Clint, but always happy to see Matt. His knowledge is so expensive and I always learn so much.
Extensive lol
Not sure I agree with your take on button rifling vs cut. Button rifling is like ballizing, you push a precision carbide tool and it makes a very precise size hole in the metal. Ballizing is one of the most accurate ways to make a hole.
Can we do a part 2 for barrel profiles and comparing all the barrel profiles
I recommend always building except for your first, buy it , then all others build, it’s fun.
I agree 👍
Nice educational video! Thank you for this content!
I was thinking matt needs his own segment called ( after midnight with Matt ) because everybody seems to but in Matt’s videos when he’s trying to teach us gun guys and gals. So I figure do it when everyone is gone. Lol.who’s with me
P.S. As far as the rifling aspect you guys talked about, I didn't hear, or maybe I just missed it, but what about 5R rifling?
This is the kind of videos I like from you guys. Excellent information and content. Keep up the great work.
best barrel is one long enough to not get popped for building a SBR without proper paperwork and fees paid
For DMR rifles, 416 SS is the best if dispersion, wear and heat build up are the top concerns.
I work with all those metals with my job. I make screws and bolts and sell them to many gun companies. It used to be a lot more before CT chased everyone away. I laughed my ass off with those explanations. He gets a solid B and did hit some key points.
Hi guys. Great video
My Question: Are there cleaning solvents you should avoid with certain barrels? For instance I've heard that you should avoid ammonia based solvents that remove copper because they can etch stainless barrels that have a high sulfur content. True? Any other similar solvent issues we should be aware of?
Thanks - Ted
Great question, i would love to hear this. I have heard the same about ammonia on stainless.
As usual I did learn a little on this video. There's a comment war going on and don't know who to believe. Keep it coming.
I appreciate you guys so much. Love all the knowledge you keep feeding me
I would love to see an update including things like anti walk barrel designs and chryo treatments vs blueing and parker coatings. Also profile cuts for harmonics are limited by material and treatments internaly and externaly. Other than that this was a great video and i had no idea there was material intentionaly impregnated with impurity.
I am a high power shooter. We have many shooters who shoot well past sub MOA in rapid sitting/prone. It's incredible.
Especially slow prone. A guy shot a 499/500 with 26x first match of the year@200 yards
Noveske used 17-4 PH exclusively for machine gun barrels back in the day. By all reports, they worked great.
I’ve machined 17-4 before and it is very tough
Very informative! Thank you
Great video Clint and Matt
Love this vid! You guys are only getting better with age.
Awesome video, with great information. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for your insights.
Great geeky video, good stuff!
The button in a button rifled barrel is pulled through not pressed through. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed it.
Real informative!
"Carbon steel" typically refers to softer weldable steels like A36. Barrel and blade steels are known as "alloy" steels. The last pair of numbers in alloy designations is the percent of carbon, but not as you stated. 4140 is not 40%, it is 0.40% carbon. 4140 is less popular for AR barrels, but it is still extremely common for bolt actions. Some mil-spec barrels are 4350, which adds nickel to the alloy.
Also, most precision competition barrels are button rifled; the difference is the follow up treatment, such as lapping of the barrel.
Thank you this helped a lot
You’ve got that backwards on the stainless the 410 being harder has more of a tendency to crack below freezing
Yes DADDY Matt back for the win
Excellent topic and presentation. Matt should show up more often.
So should I be coating the outside of my 4150V Chomoly barrel?
well...my basic radical rf-15 came with a nitrided 4140 barrel; I am not a high volume or rapid rate shooter & I expect the barrel to serve me well for a good long time
"I found a detent so I had to build another one" LMFAO when I get enough parts put aside from upgrading other guns I'll put together a "free rifle" with all those parts. Then I'll shoot it for a little while then tell the ol lady I think I'm going to start upgrading this one. Eventually all those same parts I started with will get put back together as another "free rifle" and the cycle starts over again... LOL
If I had a barrel, I could easily build a rifle with my spare parts.
1:50 "Brain Housing Group" Now that was slick af.
Excellent video, guys! Thank you!
I have worked in the fiberglass/FRP industry for a long time and I have seen the possibilities of these materials and what they are capable of. It is cheaper and easier to work with and the cost of it has steadily decreased as the cost of metals and wood have increased. With the strength and durability of the CLOTHS themselves, carbon fiber, kevlar, polypropylene, why not do away with the metal lining all together. Most fiberglass type materials can withstand high temperatures, are burn proof/resistant, can be extremely hard and flexible at the same time, all of which make them perfect for barrels. We use it for uppers and lowers so why not at least have barrels made of it for bolt action or semiautomatic rifles. I want to make clear that my experience with all of these materials has been in using them to make and repair almost anything and not in a lab or scientifically studying their chemical makeup. I am from the usage side of products. It just seems that we should be able to do it.
Pressures I’m pretty sure
Awesome information 👍
loved this video
Idk.. but I've also heard the argument that stainless steel barrels actually have a shorter barrel life than like 4150cmv
Please do a ar-15 barrel comparison !!!! Ballistic advantage , Daniel defense etc
My moneys on ballistic advantage
Great Vidya! Can say I've learned something today.
It would be cool to see weight differences between make and model of barrels in a common length.
Damn good info. Thank you gentlemen.
3:30 Wait, going from .40% carbon to .50% is an increase of 25% more carbon, not 10%. You've increased the overall RATIO of carbon-steel by .10% but that "ten percent" is one-quarter of what you'd previously been using, hence a 25% increase OVERALL.
Daniel defense chromes theirs like no one else👍😎
All my ARs and AKs have cold hammer forged chrome lined barrels.
While I’m leery of the “no oil” claims of RF-85, I’d like to see more info on the thermodynamic aspect
Great information
So, I’m shooting my AR with my new cast iron barrel, everything seems to be going well, I’m thinking I should take all of the springs out of my guns and use those space aged rubber bands. What do you think guys?
I just bought a ballistic advantage CrMoV 1:7 16" carbine
Maybe clint should do a AR 15 build from the beginning to the end? in detail. Semper Fi.........😎👀👍
damn cudi is real intimidating 💯💯
These guys make a great couple 😊
Hardwell Rockness Scale 👍🏻
BHW barrels, 416R 3 caudle rifling any good? Or just all hype?
19:00, #2A, because of the time it makes arms especially (California, Massachusetts.. antigun laws) we're to have arms to #defend 🇺🇸 Constitution & citizens from tyranny foreign and or domestic
We need another build series
Years ago when building AR's was the craze, i bought a Daniel Defense m4 barrel. The barrel costed 389$ itself Got atleast 2k rounds through the barrel & seems like it keeps getting more accurate. Buy once, Cry once i guess. I'm truly satisfied with it. 1-7 turn wished it was 1n8.. but its a highly accurate .
I like the fact that DD barrels come with a pinned gas block, unfortunately they are always out of stock.
You should buy a Lilja barrel.
Good info
Tell ryan get these playlists in order. *firearm components discussed*
Without knowing exactly what alloy, is there any advice on choosing stainless vs chromoly for a bolt action PRS rifle?
Good knowledges
No no it’s not most of what he said is not true