My compressor on ls swap on an 85 k10 runs good when truck running but starts to drag when idle I was thinking of getting me one of those dingo top mount compressor
I ran the R4 factory 30 year old compressor with original R12 refrigerant using ICT billet brackets. It’s been on for almost 2yrs with zero issues. If it ever goes out I would use that DD set up in a heartbeat. Make it much easier for a turbo add I would think.
My experience with the R4 was that it cooled just fine, but the compressor had issues. Replaced it with an ACDelco unit and blew a front seal. Thought there was a problem with high pressure side being too high. Replaced switch and added the relay to make sure it was getting proper air flow to cool things down. That unit blew a front seal too. Frustrated, I purchased a sanden style compressor with a bracket kit using the factory a/c bracket. Then sold truck. I far as I know, it has had no issues. I like the low mount for several reasons: 1) looks factory, 2) overall, I believe it will have fewer issues due to fewer overall changes to install, 3) allows me to use the factory (suburban) air box and intake parts, keeping the factory look, and 4) if i do decide to add a turbo in the future, the key area will be opened up. Thanks for watching.
My swap is a L33 aluminum block 5.3L H.O with a 70mm remote mounted turbo into a 2000 zr2 4x4 s10. Im in SC so it's hot as hell fire in the summer and humid as boiling urine steam as well. So AC is a have to have situation, especially with my health. So for my smaller engine bay I'm having to use Corvette accessories because they are a good bit closer to the engine and also I'm going to have to use electric fans and to keep my AC and have it functional I'm gonna need to relocate it so I'm going to be running a high mount AC bracket from ICT billet. I know you have different issues but they have the high mount passenger side AC brackets for truck spaced accessory brackets also. So not only will all of your accessories use a single serpentine belt the AC compressor will be mount higher up but still below the the throttle body and you wont have to worry about your frame clearance issues, engine mount issues, manifolds needing to be special to clear everything, and you have a few different options on which compressor you want to use. On my build I'm using the driver side ls1 Corvette bracket and accessories with a Corvette spaced crank pulley and water pump, the factory bracket will hold the power steering pump and reservoir and the alternator and I'll use the ict billet bracket on the passenger side just for the AC compressor which will be mounted up high a little lower than the throttle body (I'm using a drive by cable throttle body and LS6 intake from a 2002 camaro or firebird (all 2000 and up or it might just be the 01 and 02 ls1 f-bodies "camaros and transams and firebirds are f-bodies" have an ls6 intake and a 6.0L truck cam which made them efficient enough to not need EGR. If the ls1 looking intake from an f-body doesnt have a EGR port on the top behind the throttle body, then it's an ls6 intake). Anyway it sits lower than the truck intake and the compressor sits about level to a little bit lower than the TB on an ls6 intake so it will sit even lower than the TB on a truck intake. I probably could have worded that better but you can get an ict billet AC bracket just for the passenger side that uses stock LS truck accessory spacing and it would eliminate all of the issues your talking about and it mounts the AC comp higher up so it's easy to get to. I have to run it because of the tight space and front differential system. But for your build it would just save you alot of time and likely money as well because the bracket kit isnt expensive and it has a few options on which compressor you can use. You can likely use one of the compressors you already had and wouldnt have needed to buy the dirty dingo unit. Though I'm sure DD makes a similar bracket system for LS swaps. Just check them out and you'll probably end up happier with how it turns out and it will save you time, work and money. I hope that helps you some.
I’m doing my swap. I thinned out my OBS harness. Keep everything ac related from the OBS harness. There’s a green wire from the pcm as “ac request” run that to ac request on the ls computer
The compressor mounts in the stock location. It has its own brackets to work. The DD website shows a couple of different belts, a dayco and gates. I ordered the gates belt. And, yes, the pulley is made to run a narrow flat belt. Part 2 will have more information. I'll explain more in the next video. It will all become more clear. Stay tuned!
Lmk how it goes..have not found r4 kit that lines up correctly..holley..ict bullet and about 4 others belts fly off etc..would love to hear how it goes
After I get it up and running, I’ll do a follow up walk around to go over what worked and what didn’t (hopefully that is not the case!). I had a similar issue with R4’s on the ‘95. I won’t use one again.
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I wanted to use this in a 65 Impala. I got a 2001 Suburban LS engine with all the ac components.
Yes a must have in Texas..
My compressor on ls swap on an 85 k10 runs good when truck running but starts to drag when idle I was thinking of getting me one of those dingo top mount compressor
I ran the R4 factory 30 year old compressor with original R12 refrigerant using ICT billet brackets. It’s been on for almost 2yrs with zero issues. If it ever goes out I would use that DD set up in a heartbeat. Make it much easier for a turbo add I would think.
My experience with the R4 was that it cooled just fine, but the compressor had issues. Replaced it with an ACDelco unit and blew a front seal. Thought there was a problem with high pressure side being too high. Replaced switch and added the relay to make sure it was getting proper air flow to cool things down. That unit blew a front seal too. Frustrated, I purchased a sanden style compressor with a bracket kit using the factory a/c bracket. Then sold truck. I far as I know, it has had no issues. I like the low mount for several reasons: 1) looks factory, 2) overall, I believe it will have fewer issues due to fewer overall changes to install, 3) allows me to use the factory (suburban) air box and intake parts, keeping the factory look, and 4) if i do decide to add a turbo in the future, the key area will be opened up. Thanks for watching.
Great information thank you
Great content brother 👍
Thanks for watching
My swap is a L33 aluminum block 5.3L H.O with a 70mm remote mounted turbo into a 2000 zr2 4x4 s10. Im in SC so it's hot as hell fire in the summer and humid as boiling urine steam as well. So AC is a have to have situation, especially with my health. So for my smaller engine bay I'm having to use Corvette accessories because they are a good bit closer to the engine and also I'm going to have to use electric fans and to keep my AC and have it functional I'm gonna need to relocate it so I'm going to be running a high mount AC bracket from ICT billet. I know you have different issues but they have the high mount passenger side AC brackets for truck spaced accessory brackets also. So not only will all of your accessories use a single serpentine belt the AC compressor will be mount higher up but still below the the throttle body and you wont have to worry about your frame clearance issues, engine mount issues, manifolds needing to be special to clear everything, and you have a few different options on which compressor you want to use. On my build I'm using the driver side ls1 Corvette bracket and accessories with a Corvette spaced crank pulley and water pump, the factory bracket will hold the power steering pump and reservoir and the alternator and I'll use the ict billet bracket on the passenger side just for the AC compressor which will be mounted up high a little lower than the throttle body (I'm using a drive by cable throttle body and LS6 intake from a 2002 camaro or firebird (all 2000 and up or it might just be the 01 and 02 ls1 f-bodies "camaros and transams and firebirds are f-bodies" have an ls6 intake and a 6.0L truck cam which made them efficient enough to not need EGR. If the ls1 looking intake from an f-body doesnt have a EGR port on the top behind the throttle body, then it's an ls6 intake). Anyway it sits lower than the truck intake and the compressor sits about level to a little bit lower than the TB on an ls6 intake so it will sit even lower than the TB on a truck intake. I probably could have worded that better but you can get an ict billet AC bracket just for the passenger side that uses stock LS truck accessory spacing and it would eliminate all of the issues your talking about and it mounts the AC comp higher up so it's easy to get to. I have to run it because of the tight space and front differential system. But for your build it would just save you alot of time and likely money as well because the bracket kit isnt expensive and it has a few options on which compressor you can use. You can likely use one of the compressors you already had and wouldnt have needed to buy the dirty dingo unit. Though I'm sure DD makes a similar bracket system for LS swaps. Just check them out and you'll probably end up happier with how it turns out and it will save you time, work and money. I hope that helps you some.
Running mine up top with their bracket. Looking forward to seeing how you wire it. I’m kind of stuck on that part
We'll find out. I just sent my pcm off to be re-programmed and I asked a number of questions about the a/c. I'll let you know when I find out myself.
I’m doing my swap. I thinned out my OBS harness. Keep everything ac related from the OBS harness. There’s a green wire from the pcm as “ac request” run that to ac request on the ls computer
do you know what pin number
👍👍👍 This compressor will mount on stock location??? Does it fits??? What about the belt? Can the narrow belt run through that pulley?
The compressor mounts in the stock location. It has its own brackets to work. The DD website shows a couple of different belts, a dayco and gates. I ordered the gates belt. And, yes, the pulley is made to run a narrow flat belt. Part 2 will have more information. I'll explain more in the next video. It will all become more clear. Stay tuned!
@@laurencevillegarage @@👍👍
Lmk how it goes..have not found r4 kit that lines up correctly..holley..ict bullet and about 4 others belts fly off etc..would love to hear how it goes
After I get it up and running, I’ll do a follow up walk around to go over what worked and what didn’t (hopefully that is not the case!). I had a similar issue with R4’s on the ‘95. I won’t use one again.
where did you get the conversion motor mount?Link?
Check out metaltek manufacturing.