FABULOUS video! Unfortunately, I have to replace my alternator this week. Fortunately, I can follow your great tutorial. I appreciate everything you do!
I'm so glad he said the mounting is the same between early and late model. I was researching to put the 115amp ALT in my 83' and I was worried the mounting might be a little different. This gives me confidence to try one. These videos are awesome and super detailed.
If you’re looking to swap from early to late, the mounting location and general setup is the same, but there are a couple differences to consider. The early upper connection point uses a nut/bolt setup and a smaller M8x130 bolt, where the later alternator has a threaded rear ear and uses a larger M10x130 bolt. Some owners have encountered the need for just a little filing/grinding of the mount, while others have mentioned the need for a small spacer, and still others have said they had no fitment issues at all. So just be prepared to swap over the 5-ribbed pulley to match your early setup and account for any minor hardware mismatches that may arise.
I've seen elsewhere the voltage regulator is frequently responsible for "alternator failures." Regulators are much less expensive than the whole alternator. I know you were suspecting the pulley or some othe mechanical issue, but for others watching...
Thank you for making these videos they are very helpful, do you know the part number to the air cooling duct that you are replacing? And where did you order your alternator from? Can you do a video on replacing the fuel pump, I am having issues with a tiny leak on the banjo fitting on my pump, I replaced the crush washers but still a very tiny leak any suggestions? Any type of sealant that can be put on the crush washer and banjo cat boat to seal it?
• Part number on the ventilation hose is: 944-603-153-01. Check out 944online.com as Ian will have cheaper options and different kits, including gaskets, etc. • Alternator came from seller eagleautoelectric on eBay. AutohausAZ has a good price right now as well - www.autohausaz.com/pn/AL170X • The banjo fitting at the fuel pump outlet can be a pain. The leaks there are usually the result of an irregular mating surface on that fuel line fitting, the cap nut, or the check valve caused by corrosion, debris, or damage to one or more parts. The best course would be to replace the affected part(s) - 951-356-041-08 for the fuel line/banjo ($110), 928-110-475-0Y for the cap nut ($5), 944-608-951-01 for the valve ($20). You could also attempt to smooth out the mating surfaces by block sanding them on a high grit sandpaper (1000/1500), place the sandpaper on something very flat, like a piece of glass and move the fitting evenly back and forth. In a pinch, I have used a VERY SMALL amount of thread sealer paste with PTFE lightly coated on the crush washers as they are being tightened down. Don’t want to overdo it as any excess will enter the fuel system, more than likely being caught by the filter that directly follows, but I would let it cure for 24 hours before running the pump and ideally this would be a last resort - www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/
Very helpful, thanks. Looks easy to swap out. I think I'm going to pull mine and just do a rebuild kit on it. It has been working ok, but I'd swear the voltage reading has recently gone down a bit, plus given the age and mileage (150k+), a rebuild should make it last.
FYI. At 3:50 you mention the ventilation line off the air box. That is capped off on my 1987 NA, and my understanding is that Porsche recommended that mod via TSB. I'll see if I can find that reference and post it here for you.
Hey man, thank you! Yeah, I’ve seen that TSB and the little $10 rubber caps that Porsche sells, I believe it was published in June of ‘86, which is odd that they kept installing the ventilation line from the factory after that. 😂 My understanding is the TSB was released due to the potential for water to be sucked up through the intake and then transferred to the drive belts and cause premature degradation of the belt material. I don’t really drive the car in wet conditions so I haven’t installed the caps as of yet, but that may be a good idea for a future video. 😁
@@NC944er One other question for you... I noticed my alternator cooling duct hose is missing from my car. I have the shroud on the back on the of the alternator, but I'm not sure where the duct hose would connect to from there. Can you confirm that it is routed down and towards the front of the car to another plastic tube that is mounted to the front bumper? Initially I assumed that was some kind of brake cooling duct, but now I think it is used for the alternator duct. Thanks!
@@kennethrichardson1654 Yep, you’re exactly right! The flexible ventilation line runs down from the shroud and over to the left slightly where it connects to a short plastic tube behind the front bumper/spoiler.
The aluminum cases are often repainted during the remanufacturing process, which is relatively common in that industry. The cases can also be powder coated while the internals are removed. No issues with grounding that I’m aware of and all the electrical terminals at the rear were clean and clear of any coatings. The layer of paint could slightly affect heat dissipation, but that should only be an issue with really high performance / high load applications.
Great that I came across this video, I am changing my alternator and I was wondering if this one fit on my 1985/2 Porsche? Because there are two options on pelican parts…the Bosch Al-170-x or AL-29-x 90amp so that I don’t buy the wrong part again lol
Very informative video, thank you. I am struggling to find an alternator that already has the pulley fastened so I do not need to take the pulley off from the old alternator. Any suggestions where to purchase from? I saw the comment below from AutoHausAZ but there is no pulley attached to that one... please please let me know where you think.... in desperate need here. Thank you!!!
Sometimes those pictures are just “stock images” and the actual item is different. I would put in an inquiry with the vendor to confirm what’s included. Otherwise eBay generally showcases actual item photos and often the description will say “fan and pulley included.”
Thank you for responding. I have been looking and honestly no luck. FCP Euro has one, no pulley attached, same with a few other companies... maybe I just purchase the pulley separately? Any recommendation as to where to purchase the pulley separately? I've also been searching with no luck. Please share any links if you find fastened alternators with pulley attached. It would be a great great help. My car is just sitting in pieces now because I cannot get my hands on an alternator or take the old pulley off.. thank you again man.
@@joshohebshalom4676 I just purchased an 89 944, with a bad alternator. I'm taking delivery on Sunday. Can you not affix the pulley from the existing unit onto the new one your getting? Maybe @NC944er can chime in?
@@danmazz8733 thanks for responding- I actually ended up ordering the Bosch alternator from FCP Euro and it came with the pulley! I was really surprised... I thought I’d have to buy a pulley individually from a local auto parts store... making it a huge ordeal. So id recommend purchasing from fcp so you don’t need to do any swapping. My pulley was badly jammed, couldn’t get pulley off at all. Follow this detailed guide too, it really helped!
I want to thank you again for making this video, just changed out my alternator to see if it would fix my issue with windows/AC blower/radio. All of a sudden they are not working. However it did not help. That sucks. I wonder if you have any ideas why these three areas are not working. I was also recently working on my rear lights and my odometer. Maybe I did something? I also want to know if you know the part number for the wiring harness that connects to the headlights/headlight motor/ignition coil/and I think the brake fluid reservoir? It is a really big main wiring harness. Anyways thanks for your help.
Hey Phillip, I’m sorry to hear that! The earlier cars can experience a few electrical gremlins. As far as the part number, there are quite a few different numbers for the various models and years, but it looks like Ian has a few options at 944online - 944online.com/engine-wiring-harness.html You can also find used engine bay wiring harnesses on eBay. Before you go that route, I would try to diagnose some of the components. A simple multimeter can go a long way in tracking down issues. Outside the wiring itself, switches can fail, fuses burn out, and individual motors/components fail. The first thing I would do is check any applicable fuses for the affected system. If that checks out, I would test power to the components (example: disconnect a headlight bulb, turn on lights, and test voltage at the connector). If power is good, I would then test or replace the components (example: apply direct 12v power from the battery to the headlight or motor, etc to see if it’s working).
I'm changing out the alternator on my 1983 944 and I see that there is this little plastic case with a wire coming out if it connecting to one if the terminals in the old alternator. The new alternator I got us refurbished and didn't come with that. What is it?
Hey Hugo! If it’s labeled as B+, the little plastic box with a wire is usually the positive battery output. There is also sometimes another plastic cover (typically larger) for the voltage regulator. Depending on the brand/remanufacture process, these components may be inside or outside the housing. If the connections look way off, I’d probably confirm any differences with the vendor.
My 1986 944 Turbo voltmeter dropped to zero while driving today. The car seemed fine driving, everything worked normally otherwise. By the time I got home, grabbed my meter to test everything, and restarted the car, the gauge was fine. Voltage at the battery was 12.4 with the car off, and 13.4 withe car idling and many accessories on. ????? Is there a known gauge issue?
I wouldn’t say the voltage gauge issue is super common, but I have seen a few folks reporting it. There are a number of electrical gremlins in these cars, usually the early cars get the worst of it. If the issue continues, the first thing I would check is the connections behind the gauge cluster. Sometimes the pin terminals can loosen up and get pushed out slightly and inspecting the connectors, pins, and ensuring they’re all properly seated may help. Another item to complete for all general electrical issues is to check and clean all the grounding points inside and out, which can improve things across the board. Here’s a link that has most of them covered - rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/445827-how-many-ground-lugs-in-the-interior.html
Hey man! Having to jump the car would typically point to the battery, if the alternator has failed, it won’t charge the battery, but the car really wouldn’t run for long without the alternator working. Backfiring is generally caused by improper air/fuel ratio, misfiring ignition components, or incorrect ignition timing. So you may want dig into some of those systems as follows… For the fuel system: Pressure can be tested at the rail, if it’s out of spec, it could point to the FPR, a clogged strainer, filter, or failing fuel pump. The injectors are prone to clogs and leaks as well and having them cleaned and flow matched is usually worth the $125. For air/intake system: Confirm unmetered air is not entering the system by checking for vacuum leaks at all intake and vacuum line connections. If you haven’t replaced your vacuum lines and connections, the Lindsey Racing kit is really affordable. AFM calibration can also cause issues, the potentiometer can be cleaned and the wiper arm adjusted if the contact strip is worn. For ignition components: Check spark plug gap or replace plugs with Bosch 7900 plugs. Check the condition of the plug wires and confirm they’re all connected to the correct distributor points. Check internal condition of the distributor cap and rotor connections and replace as needed. Perform resistance checks on the ignition coil. For ignition timing: Set the flywheel to Top Dead Center and confirm positioning of the cam gear and correct timing as needed.
@@NC944er yeah bought a new battery got nothing outta it so going to do alternator now and the back firing got worse as the battery got lower in voltage
@@thearyanpatel1682 Replacing the alternator certainly won’t hurt anything as most of them have some oxidation present inside and out, and that would improve the electrical supply in general. Let me know how it goes. 👍
This is probably a dumb question, but when you say disconnect the wiring harness from the battery, do you mean just the terminals? Electricity is like an irrational fear of mine so I want to make 100% sure.
@@tims_4x4_garage Yeah, it was painted up nice and pretty with all new intervals and connectors. Seems to have good output and I liked that it had the pulley and fan blade preinstalled.
@@NC944er I went ahead and ordered one. I know I have some other problems but the alternator could be failing as well. My dash doesn’t show more than 12V but that’s pretty common with these clusters. I only get around 13.6V on the battery with the engine running. I’ve considered doing all new battery cables. I still need to do my voltage drop tests but I know the alternator was missing the cold air tube so it probably wasn’t very happy for a long time. I replaced the cold air supply duct but it’s secured with zip ties at the moment. I need to get the correct size hose clamps for it. The ac/alt don’t really live in harmony together since the ac compressor must’ve been changed at some point. It doesn’t take the correct belt and the alt duct doesn’t really fit. I see why they deleted it. I did get it to work, but it’s snug
I have the 951, and my alternator is toast. It truly is a PITA to remove and replace. That car has so much plumbing to remove to get to it I just aint going to mess with it. Ill save up some coin and have a pro repair it. Its a nightmare.
Yeah, the Turbo models are generally preferred in almost every way over the NAs, except when it comes to maintenance as there are often quite a few additional steps required to complete what would normally be pretty basic stuff. Best of luck! 👍🏼
The benefit of editing… 😂 If you can move the two nuts to the side, you should be able to hit the threaded connections with some penetrating spray. If it’s too far gone, new adjustment bars run about $80 on Pelican, part number: 944-126-021-04
Yeah I’m just joshin ya 😂 thank you! Also the two bolts on the AC compressor are giving me an issue. I’ve got the new alternator in so should I tighten the adjustment bar first and then go back to tighten those bolts on ac compressor?
FABULOUS video! Unfortunately, I have to replace my alternator this week. Fortunately, I can follow your great tutorial. I appreciate everything you do!
@@kcarmack99 Thanks! Best of luck, it’s not too bad a job.
@@NC944er Also, what size and length hose are you replacing? Mine is pretty mangled like yours was.
@ I just used the kit from 944Online, it comes with the air duct hose and two new ring clamps for $20.
I'm so glad he said the mounting is the same between early and late model. I was researching to put the 115amp ALT in my 83' and I was worried the mounting might be a little different. This gives me confidence to try one. These videos are awesome and super detailed.
If you’re looking to swap from early to late, the mounting location and general setup is the same, but there are a couple differences to consider. The early upper connection point uses a nut/bolt setup and a smaller M8x130 bolt, where the later alternator has a threaded rear ear and uses a larger M10x130 bolt. Some owners have encountered the need for just a little filing/grinding of the mount, while others have mentioned the need for a small spacer, and still others have said they had no fitment issues at all. So just be prepared to swap over the 5-ribbed pulley to match your early setup and account for any minor hardware mismatches that may arise.
Cool video. And I’m stunned by how good your engine bay looks. Wowwww.
Thanks Jer! The engine bay outshines the paint job at this point. 😂 “Don’t look at those door dings and scratches… here… look under the hood.” 😁
That engine bay is looking amazing!👌, Thanks for the video!
I've seen elsewhere the voltage regulator is frequently responsible for "alternator failures." Regulators are much less expensive than the whole alternator.
I know you were suspecting the pulley or some othe mechanical issue, but for others watching...
Nice video good information keep up the good work
Thank you for making these videos they are very helpful, do you know the part number to the air cooling duct that you are replacing? And where did you order your alternator from? Can you do a video on replacing the fuel pump, I am having issues with a tiny leak on the banjo fitting on my pump, I replaced the crush washers but still a very tiny leak any suggestions? Any type of sealant that can be put on the crush washer and banjo cat boat to seal it?
• Part number on the ventilation hose is: 944-603-153-01. Check out 944online.com as Ian will have cheaper options and different kits, including gaskets, etc.
• Alternator came from seller eagleautoelectric on eBay. AutohausAZ has a good price right now as well - www.autohausaz.com/pn/AL170X
• The banjo fitting at the fuel pump outlet can be a pain. The leaks there are usually the result of an irregular mating surface on that fuel line fitting, the cap nut, or the check valve caused by corrosion, debris, or damage to one or more parts. The best course would be to replace the affected part(s) - 951-356-041-08 for the fuel line/banjo ($110), 928-110-475-0Y for the cap nut ($5), 944-608-951-01 for the valve ($20). You could also attempt to smooth out the mating surfaces by block sanding them on a high grit sandpaper (1000/1500), place the sandpaper on something very flat, like a piece of glass and move the fitting evenly back and forth. In a pinch, I have used a VERY SMALL amount of thread sealer paste with PTFE lightly coated on the crush washers as they are being tightened down. Don’t want to overdo it as any excess will enter the fuel system, more than likely being caught by the filter that directly follows, but I would let it cure for 24 hours before running the pump and ideally this would be a last resort - www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/
Just brilliant, simple and thorough guides. Thank you.
Thanks Robert! It took a little while, but I now have a pretty clean formula down for the tutorials. 😂
DUDE you rock great job. do you work on the 944s?
Thank you! I have not done any work on the S model...
Have you considered switching to the Nissan Frontier alternator I’ve heard it’s an easy mod and easier and cheaper to obtain.
I try stay mostly original when I can, so that wasn’t really on my radar. Could be a good option for some people though, thanks for sharing!
Very helpful, thanks. Looks easy to swap out. I think I'm going to pull mine and just do a rebuild kit on it. It has been working ok, but I'd swear the voltage reading has recently gone down a bit, plus given the age and mileage (150k+), a rebuild should make it last.
Nice! Yeah, it’s really straightforward. I recently replaced the alternator on our Honda Odyssey and it was a bit more challenging than the 944. 😂
Well done!
FYI. At 3:50 you mention the ventilation line off the air box. That is capped off on my 1987 NA, and my understanding is that Porsche recommended that mod via TSB. I'll see if I can find that reference and post it here for you.
Hey man, thank you! Yeah, I’ve seen that TSB and the little $10 rubber caps that Porsche sells, I believe it was published in June of ‘86, which is odd that they kept installing the ventilation line from the factory after that. 😂 My understanding is the TSB was released due to the potential for water to be sucked up through the intake and then transferred to the drive belts and cause premature degradation of the belt material. I don’t really drive the car in wet conditions so I haven’t installed the caps as of yet, but that may be a good idea for a future video. 😁
@@NC944er One other question for you... I noticed my alternator cooling duct hose is missing from my car. I have the shroud on the back on the of the alternator, but I'm not sure where the duct hose would connect to from there. Can you confirm that it is routed down and towards the front of the car to another plastic tube that is mounted to the front bumper? Initially I assumed that was some kind of brake cooling duct, but now I think it is used for the alternator duct. Thanks!
@@kennethrichardson1654 Yep, you’re exactly right! The flexible ventilation line runs down from the shroud and over to the left slightly where it connects to a short plastic tube behind the front bumper/spoiler.
@@NC944er Well, I got that duct installed. Thanks for the help!
It looks like this alternator came with a painted case. It looks nice but was wondering if you thought the layer of paint would inhibit grounding.
The aluminum cases are often repainted during the remanufacturing process, which is relatively common in that industry. The cases can also be powder coated while the internals are removed. No issues with grounding that I’m aware of and all the electrical terminals at the rear were clean and clear of any coatings. The layer of paint could slightly affect heat dissipation, but that should only be an issue with really high performance / high load applications.
Great that I came across this video, I am changing my alternator and I was wondering if this one fit on my 1985/2 Porsche? Because there are two options on pelican parts…the Bosch Al-170-x or AL-29-x 90amp so that I don’t buy the wrong part again lol
@@julianbalseca5513 Yeah, the AL-29-X applies to cars 1982-1985/1 and the AL-170-X for cars 1985/2-1991, which got a boost from 90amp to 115amp.
@ thank you for your help and I am doing couple of upgrades on my 944 so I will probably have more questions on other videos, thanks again for this 🤙🏼
Very informative video, thank you. I am struggling to find an alternator that already has the pulley fastened so I do not need to take the pulley off from the old alternator. Any suggestions where to purchase from? I saw the comment below from AutoHausAZ but there is no pulley attached to that one... please please let me know where you think.... in desperate need here. Thank you!!!
Sometimes those pictures are just “stock images” and the actual item is different. I would put in an inquiry with the vendor to confirm what’s included. Otherwise eBay generally showcases actual item photos and often the description will say “fan and pulley included.”
Thank you for responding. I have been looking and honestly no luck. FCP Euro has one, no pulley attached, same with a few other companies... maybe I just purchase the pulley separately? Any recommendation as to where to purchase the pulley separately? I've also been searching with no luck. Please share any links if you find fastened alternators with pulley attached. It would be a great great help. My car is just sitting in pieces now because I cannot get my hands on an alternator or take the old pulley off.. thank you again man.
@@joshohebshalom4676 I just purchased an 89 944, with a bad alternator. I'm taking delivery on Sunday. Can you not affix the pulley from the existing unit onto the new one your getting? Maybe @NC944er can chime in?
@@danmazz8733 thanks for responding- I actually ended up ordering the Bosch alternator from FCP Euro and it came with the pulley! I was really surprised... I thought I’d have to buy a pulley individually from a local auto parts store... making it a huge ordeal. So id recommend purchasing from fcp so you don’t need to do any swapping. My pulley was badly jammed, couldn’t get pulley off at all. Follow this detailed guide too, it really helped!
I want to thank you again for making this video, just changed out my alternator to see if it would fix my issue with windows/AC blower/radio. All of a sudden they are not working. However it did not help. That sucks. I wonder if you have any ideas why these three areas are not working. I was also recently working on my rear lights and my odometer. Maybe I did something? I also want to know if you know the part number for the wiring harness that connects to the headlights/headlight motor/ignition coil/and I think the brake fluid reservoir? It is a really big main wiring harness. Anyways thanks for your help.
Hey Phillip, I’m sorry to hear that! The earlier cars can experience a few electrical gremlins. As far as the part number, there are quite a few different numbers for the various models and years, but it looks like Ian has a few options at 944online - 944online.com/engine-wiring-harness.html
You can also find used engine bay wiring harnesses on eBay.
Before you go that route, I would try to diagnose some of the components. A simple multimeter can go a long way in tracking down issues. Outside the wiring itself, switches can fail, fuses burn out, and individual motors/components fail. The first thing I would do is check any applicable fuses for the affected system. If that checks out, I would test power to the components (example: disconnect a headlight bulb, turn on lights, and test voltage at the connector). If power is good, I would then test or replace the components (example: apply direct 12v power from the battery to the headlight or motor, etc to see if it’s working).
I'm changing out the alternator on my 1983 944 and I see that there is this little plastic case with a wire coming out if it connecting to one if the terminals in the old alternator. The new alternator I got us refurbished and didn't come with that. What is it?
Hey Hugo! If it’s labeled as B+, the little plastic box with a wire is usually the positive battery output. There is also sometimes another plastic cover (typically larger) for the voltage regulator. Depending on the brand/remanufacture process, these components may be inside or outside the housing. If the connections look way off, I’d probably confirm any differences with the vendor.
My 1986 944 Turbo voltmeter dropped to zero while driving today. The car seemed fine driving, everything worked normally otherwise. By the time I got home, grabbed my meter to test everything, and restarted the car, the gauge was fine. Voltage at the battery was 12.4 with the car off, and 13.4 withe car idling and many accessories on. ????? Is there a known gauge issue?
I wouldn’t say the voltage gauge issue is super common, but I have seen a few folks reporting it. There are a number of electrical gremlins in these cars, usually the early cars get the worst of it. If the issue continues, the first thing I would check is the connections behind the gauge cluster. Sometimes the pin terminals can loosen up and get pushed out slightly and inspecting the connectors, pins, and ensuring they’re all properly seated may help.
Another item to complete for all general electrical issues is to check and clean all the grounding points inside and out, which can improve things across the board. Here’s a link that has most of them covered - rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/445827-how-many-ground-lugs-in-the-interior.html
@@NC944er Thank you! I’ll report back if I find anything.
Would this cause constsnt back firing on a car? My car constantly back fires and I have to jump it
Hey man! Having to jump the car would typically point to the battery, if the alternator has failed, it won’t charge the battery, but the car really wouldn’t run for long without the alternator working.
Backfiring is generally caused by improper air/fuel ratio, misfiring ignition components, or incorrect ignition timing. So you may want dig into some of those systems as follows…
For the fuel system:
Pressure can be tested at the rail, if it’s out of spec, it could point to the FPR, a clogged strainer, filter, or failing fuel pump. The injectors are prone to clogs and leaks as well and having them cleaned and flow matched is usually worth the $125.
For air/intake system:
Confirm unmetered air is not entering the system by checking for vacuum leaks at all intake and vacuum line connections. If you haven’t replaced your vacuum lines and connections, the Lindsey Racing kit is really affordable. AFM calibration can also cause issues, the potentiometer can be cleaned and the wiper arm adjusted if the contact strip is worn.
For ignition components:
Check spark plug gap or replace plugs with Bosch 7900 plugs. Check the condition of the plug wires and confirm they’re all connected to the correct distributor points. Check internal condition of the distributor cap and rotor connections and replace as needed. Perform resistance checks on the ignition coil.
For ignition timing:
Set the flywheel to Top Dead Center and confirm positioning of the cam gear and correct timing as needed.
@@NC944er yeah bought a new battery got nothing outta it so going to do alternator now and the back firing got worse as the battery got lower in voltage
@@thearyanpatel1682 Replacing the alternator certainly won’t hurt anything as most of them have some oxidation present inside and out, and that would improve the electrical supply in general. Let me know how it goes. 👍
@@NC944er my car starts then instantly shuts off after switching the alternator
@@thearyanpatel1682 Check the wiring connector to the AFM and ensure it’s properly seated.
❤
This is probably a dumb question, but when you say disconnect the wiring harness from the battery, do you mean just the terminals? Electricity is like an irrational fear of mine so I want to make 100% sure.
Hey! Yeah, you got it, just loosen and disconnect from the battery terminals and push them to the side so they’re not making contact.
@@NC944er Alright that’s what I figured, thanks so much for responding!
Hey man do you remember who you got the alternator from? I found a seller on eBay who is selling 130 amp remans not sure if it’s the same person
Sure, the one I got was from seller: eagleautoelectric
@@NC944er cool thanks. Same seller. Happy with it? I need to do a little bit more diagnostics but my charging system is struggling.
@@tims_4x4_garage Yeah, it was painted up nice and pretty with all new intervals and connectors. Seems to have good output and I liked that it had the pulley and fan blade preinstalled.
@@NC944er I went ahead and ordered one. I know I have some other problems but the alternator could be failing as well. My dash doesn’t show more than 12V but that’s pretty common with these clusters. I only get around 13.6V on the battery with the engine running. I’ve considered doing all new battery cables. I still need to do my voltage drop tests but I know the alternator was missing the cold air tube so it probably wasn’t very happy for a long time. I replaced the cold air supply duct but it’s secured with zip ties at the moment. I need to get the correct size hose clamps for it. The ac/alt don’t really live in harmony together since the ac compressor must’ve been changed at some point. It doesn’t take the correct belt and the alt duct doesn’t really fit. I see why they deleted it. I did get it to work, but it’s snug
I have the 951, and my alternator is toast. It truly is a PITA to remove and replace. That car has so much plumbing to remove to get to it I just aint going to mess with it. Ill save up some coin and have a pro repair it. Its a nightmare.
Yeah, the Turbo models are generally preferred in almost every way over the NAs, except when it comes to maintenance as there are often quite a few additional steps required to complete what would normally be pretty basic stuff. Best of luck! 👍🏼
I hate how easy you make everything look 😡 just attempted this and my adjustment bar will not move
The benefit of editing… 😂 If you can move the two nuts to the side, you should be able to hit the threaded connections with some penetrating spray. If it’s too far gone, new adjustment bars run about $80 on Pelican, part number: 944-126-021-04
Yeah I’m just joshin ya 😂 thank you! Also the two bolts on the AC compressor are giving me an issue. I’ve got the new alternator in so should I tighten the adjustment bar first and then go back to tighten those bolts on ac compressor?
@@dylan4413 Yep, get the bar set to the right adjustment and then lock everything else down after.