Lindsey Racing sells an interesting looking coolant drain kit. From what I can gather from the website, it appears to have a custom fitting that screws into the radiator along with a hose and valve. I think it was designed to direct the outflow of coolant into a bucket, negating the need of multiple paint roller pans and other catchment devices. It might be something to try and could be an interesting video review.
Feel free if you’re close to central NC, I’ve got some free time. 😂 Glad the content is helping out and don’t forget, you’re saving $1,000s in labor costs.
Yeah, pretty interesting how sand is used during the casting process to create the cavities in the head, then later washed out, revealing the channels for the coolant to pass through.
Nice video, this is my next project, going to replace all 4 hoses connected to the radiator and the expansion tank. I have a question, I am in the process of changing out the fuel level sending unit. I cannot get the hose on the left off the larger heart line connected to the unit, did you have to go under the car and pull on that hose to give yourself some space to take off that hose? Man it is a pain in the ass. Any ideas? And how did you take the cap off the unit?
The lines get a bit hard and inflexible with age, but you should be able to push them back under the sheet metal a bit. I did not need to do anything under the car. The cap is basically a lid with no center, so it twists off counter-clockwise. Try to loosen the cap and see if twisting/tilting the unit at another angle helps get a better leverage point on the hose.
Unfortunately I’ve already replaced the oil cooler seals on this car and the most I have from the job is a handful of pictures. There are a couple videos out there worth a look though. This one has some great info - th-cam.com/video/7T68yNp6Qrg/w-d-xo.html
You'll see a lot of different preferences out there on oil brand, but as far as weight, I use Castrol GTX 20w-50, which is good for warmer climates. If you live in a colder climate or will be starting the car when outside temperatures are 14° fahrenheit or colder, you would want to drop down to something lighter like a 10w-50. There is a chart in the owner's manual. For coolant, I've been using the Peak Blue European stuff available at AutoZone, there are a number of other options. It's functional and I haven't had any issues. The bright blue color is also useful when there are leaks because there's no confusing that color with any other fluids used on the car, and you can track down the source quickly.
So I did this, replaced the thermostat and cleaned the ground to the temperature gauge but now my temp gauge needle is bouncing around sporadically and is still running a bit hot (though it doesn't take as long to go near the red) Any thoughts? Radiator or fans maybe?
Hey! I would try to sort out the gauge reading before replacing other major cooling system components. It shouldn’t be bouncing. Possibly a poor connection at the coolant temperature sensor on the engine block? Or a poor connection behind the gauge cluster? A new sensor runs about $50 if you wanted to replace it. Not sure if you have an infrared thermometer to scan the block, but the red section on the gauge should be between 105°-120° C so if the block reads less than that, say 90° C then it’s not really overheating. If your fans aren’t coming on at all, of course that would be a cause for concern as well.
@@NC944er I was just reading about the sensor and thinking that may be the issue. I will give it a shot and hopefully find some good guides on how to do it. Thank you!! I appreciate how helpful and responsive you are.
@@doubled334 Yeah, the sensor is a little buried under the j-boot/intake. It’s the one with the two wires going to it, not the larger plastic connector one. See if you can clean the contacts and terminals and make sure the wires are well seated, could just be loose or dirty causing the gauge to jump.
Thanks very much for your videos man, very helpful :) I've been having issues with the coolant system on my 944 (3 different leaks, quite hard to spot), now I wanna vent it properly and I have a question : - When you start the engine to get to the driving temperature, do you put the extension tank plug back in place ? Isn't it dangerous to open it at the operating temperature to add coolant (heat & pressure) ? Or do I have to wait a few hours for the engine to cool down before i start the venting process again ? (and add coolant if necessary) Thanks again,
Hey Tony, no problem. Yes, the cap for the expansion tank should be installed before starting the engine in order to build up the needed pressure for venting at the bleeder screw. The caps are typically rated between 15-22psi before they would self-vent air pressure and fluid, so the pressure isn’t that high. The caps can safely be removed when the engine is at operating temperature, as just a small amount of hot air is released when removing the cap. You could use gloves or a rag over the cap if that’s a concern.
@@NC944er Thanks for the quick response. So I can do the venting process a few times in row ? Once i've reached the operating temperature, i turn off the engine, open the venting bolt, close it, start the engine again for a few minutes (how long ?), turn it off etc ? I'm gonna try to do it tomorrow morning.
@@tonylampure8368 Yeah, it’s easiest just to complete the venting cycles back to back since engine temp is already up. Turn off the A/C while running and wait for the cooling fans to kick on, that’s a good sign you’re in the 92°C temp area. Pop the bleeder for a few seconds until the air bubbles stop and you just have solid fluid coming out, lock the bleeder back down, and you immediately start the engine back up. Shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes of running between cycles unless it’s really cold outside.
@@NC944er Good stuff thanks, I'll do it tomorrow and keep you updated. No AC (not very common in the 80s in Europe), cold tomorrow but not too cold (I currently live in France)
@@tonylampure8368 If you had completely drained the block of coolant, or replaced any of the heater lines, it’s also a good idea to set the HVAC to full heat so that coolant moves into and out of the heat exchanger in cabin, which will help get all the trapped air to the top of the block for venting. Best of luck! 👍🏼
Hey, quick question On the reservoir there are the min and max levels. Does it need to be between those two levels when your engine is hot of cold? Mine leaked some so I have to refill it but don't know what level is the best. Before it leaked the coolant level sat between the two when the engine is cold and right above the max level when the engine is hot. But now I can't even see any cooling liquid in the reservoir. Do I also need to let the air out because I don't know how much liquid actually leaked out?
I like to keep the coolant level below the midpoint between the Max and Min levels when the engine is cold, that way when the coolant expands at operating temperature you won’t have overflow loss like you mentioned. Mine is right at about the Min level when cold right now and when it warms up it gets closer to the Max level. I’d recommend adding some fluid to that level and do a couple rounds of bleeding if you think there is air trapped in the system. When the system is fully bled of air, the fluid level should expand to a lesser extent, which will help.
Short answer: a lot of time and money.🤣 Long answer: The intake manifold and camshaft housing have been bead blasted and powder coated with satin clear. Most of the steel parts on display have been either replaced or re-plated with yellow zinc. Replacing the fluid reservoirs makes a big difference as well.
Yeah, the seal for the oil drain plug is 22x27, the engine block drain bolt is 8x14. Here’s some links: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90012310530OEM.htm?pn=900-123-105-30-OEM&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=1022 www.belmetric.com/aluminum-washers-c-4_2122/ga8x14x10-aluminum-gasket-p-12795.html?zenid=20q8501nlcplhe1oha9t7sag96
@@NC944er You are a life saver.. I just called into Pelican Parts to threw a few of those in my order before it shipped. I just recently had oil get into the coolant system and my guess is that the oil cooler seals went.. I am assuming it will be wise to do a few flushes from the engine block afterwards. Thanks for the really quick reply
The main thing is to use a phosphate-free coolant made for aluminum engine blocks. I use Peak Blue “European,” as it’s locally available from AutoZone, but there are a number of compatible options available from other manufacturers as well.
Hey Howard, yes the process is “generally” the same on the Turbo cars, with just a few extra challenges, like most things on the 951. The bleeder screw is positioned horizontally rather than vertically like on the NA, and it’s partially blocked by the right intercooler pipe, some folks remove that pipe for easier access when venting the system. If you’ve drained the engine block, refilling the block with the upper radiator hose is another challenge as it’s partially blocked by the crossover pipe. You may consider disconnecting the metal return line where it meets the flanged water neck at the top of the cylinder head and refilling there with a funnel and short length of hose attached. Either way, prepare for some mess. 😂
The engine block drain bolt uses an 8x14 aluminum crush washer. Here are some links: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90012310530OEM.htm?pn=900-123-105-30-OEM&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=1022 www.belmetric.com/aluminum-washers-c-4_2122/ga8x14x10-aluminum-gasket-p-12795.html?zenid=20q8501nlcplhe1oha9t7sag96
@@BennysBenz Hey, no… it’s not necessary to fill the radiator from the top hose connection, just the engine block. The radiator will fill directly from the reservoir/tank when you top up the coolant.
This is taking forever to bleed, it is blowing really hot air in the car now, but the temp gauge is still way up so I've been running the car waiting for the thermostat to open and then shutting off the car undoing the bleep screw then repeat. The expansion tank is going down and I've been adding to it hopefully I'll eventually get this cleared out.
@@BennysBenz Yeah, it can be frustrating. Sometimes it takes 4-6 venting cycles to get all the air out. I generally drive mine and bring a 12mm wrench with me to vent it. Take it to the store or gas station, etc, vent it, drive it home, vent it, repeat. 😂
![[DRIP] ‘BILLIONAIRE’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m0eXQD0gIeE/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, that's one clean 944. I've been spending the past month degreasing everything and I'm nowhere near that clean.
fantastic breakdown and video. I feel so much better about going to work on mine. thank you so much.
That engine bay is so clean😍
Lindsey Racing sells an interesting looking coolant drain kit. From what I can gather from the website, it appears to have a custom fitting that screws into the radiator along with a hose and valve. I think it was designed to direct the outflow of coolant into a bucket, negating the need of multiple paint roller pans and other catchment devices. It might be something to try and could be an interesting video review.
Thank you very much for your videos. I've recently purchased a 944. Very thankful to see your videos. It's a little intimidating at first.
Absolutely man! How’s your car been coming along?
4:46 4:46 4:46 4:46
Another excellent tutorial!
Very clean engine bay!
Wish I could drop mine off at your place 😂 but seriously thank you for all of these!!!!
Feel free if you’re close to central NC, I’ve got some free time. 😂 Glad the content is helping out and don’t forget, you’re saving $1,000s in labor costs.
@@NC944er southern KY so not a bad drive 👀
@@doubled334 🤣
Quite an amazing design. Using coolant to cool down cylinder heads :o
Yeah, pretty interesting how sand is used during the casting process to create the cavities in the head, then later washed out, revealing the channels for the coolant to pass through.
Nice video, this is my next project, going to replace all 4 hoses connected to the radiator and the expansion tank. I have a question, I am in the process of changing out the fuel level sending unit. I cannot get the hose on the left off the larger heart line connected to the unit, did you have to go under the car and pull on that hose to give yourself some space to take off that hose? Man it is a pain in the ass. Any ideas? And how did you take the cap off the unit?
The lines get a bit hard and inflexible with age, but you should be able to push them back under the sheet metal a bit. I did not need to do anything under the car.
The cap is basically a lid with no center, so it twists off counter-clockwise. Try to loosen the cap and see if twisting/tilting the unit at another angle helps get a better leverage point on the hose.
Do you have a video for the oil cooler seals in the works? I'd love to see how that's done
Unfortunately I’ve already replaced the oil cooler seals on this car and the most I have from the job is a handful of pictures.
There are a couple videos out there worth a look though. This one has some great info - th-cam.com/video/7T68yNp6Qrg/w-d-xo.html
@@NC944er Thanks! I'll check it out.
what coolant and oil do you recommend for an 85.1 944, also great video very helpful!
You'll see a lot of different preferences out there on oil brand, but as far as weight, I use Castrol GTX 20w-50, which is good for warmer climates. If you live in a colder climate or will be starting the car when outside temperatures are 14° fahrenheit or colder, you would want to drop down to something lighter like a 10w-50. There is a chart in the owner's manual.
For coolant, I've been using the Peak Blue European stuff available at AutoZone, there are a number of other options. It's functional and I haven't had any issues. The bright blue color is also useful when there are leaks because there's no confusing that color with any other fluids used on the car, and you can track down the source quickly.
So I did this, replaced the thermostat and cleaned the ground to the temperature gauge but now my temp gauge needle is bouncing around sporadically and is still running a bit hot (though it doesn't take as long to go near the red)
Any thoughts? Radiator or fans maybe?
Hey! I would try to sort out the gauge reading before replacing other major cooling system components. It shouldn’t be bouncing. Possibly a poor connection at the coolant temperature sensor on the engine block? Or a poor connection behind the gauge cluster? A new sensor runs about $50 if you wanted to replace it. Not sure if you have an infrared thermometer to scan the block, but the red section on the gauge should be between 105°-120° C so if the block reads less than that, say 90° C then it’s not really overheating. If your fans aren’t coming on at all, of course that would be a cause for concern as well.
@@NC944er I was just reading about the sensor and thinking that may be the issue. I will give it a shot and hopefully find some good guides on how to do it. Thank you!! I appreciate how helpful and responsive you are.
@@doubled334 Yeah, the sensor is a little buried under the j-boot/intake. It’s the one with the two wires going to it, not the larger plastic connector one. See if you can clean the contacts and terminals and make sure the wires are well seated, could just be loose or dirty causing the gauge to jump.
Thanks very much for your videos man, very helpful :) I've been having issues with the coolant system on my 944 (3 different leaks, quite hard to spot), now I wanna vent it properly and I have a question :
- When you start the engine to get to the driving temperature, do you put the extension tank plug back in place ? Isn't it dangerous to open it at the operating temperature to add coolant (heat & pressure) ? Or do I have to wait a few hours for the engine to cool down before i start the venting process again ? (and add coolant if necessary)
Thanks again,
Hey Tony, no problem. Yes, the cap for the expansion tank should be installed before starting the engine in order to build up the needed pressure for venting at the bleeder screw. The caps are typically rated between 15-22psi before they would self-vent air pressure and fluid, so the pressure isn’t that high. The caps can safely be removed when the engine is at operating temperature, as just a small amount of hot air is released when removing the cap. You could use gloves or a rag over the cap if that’s a concern.
@@NC944er Thanks for the quick response. So I can do the venting process a few times in row ? Once i've reached the operating temperature, i turn off the engine, open the venting bolt, close it, start the engine again for a few minutes (how long ?), turn it off etc ?
I'm gonna try to do it tomorrow morning.
@@tonylampure8368 Yeah, it’s easiest just to complete the venting cycles back to back since engine temp is already up. Turn off the A/C while running and wait for the cooling fans to kick on, that’s a good sign you’re in the 92°C temp area. Pop the bleeder for a few seconds until the air bubbles stop and you just have solid fluid coming out, lock the bleeder back down, and you immediately start the engine back up. Shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes of running between cycles unless it’s really cold outside.
@@NC944er Good stuff thanks, I'll do it tomorrow and keep you updated. No AC (not very common in the 80s in Europe), cold tomorrow but not too cold (I currently live in France)
@@tonylampure8368 If you had completely drained the block of coolant, or replaced any of the heater lines, it’s also a good idea to set the HVAC to full heat so that coolant moves into and out of the heat exchanger in cabin, which will help get all the trapped air to the top of the block for venting. Best of luck! 👍🏼
looks like new wow
Tin foil helps reduce the mess
Hey, quick question
On the reservoir there are the min and max levels.
Does it need to be between those two levels when your engine is hot of cold?
Mine leaked some so I have to refill it but don't know what level is the best.
Before it leaked the coolant level sat between the two when the engine is cold and right above the max level when the engine is hot.
But now I can't even see any cooling liquid in the reservoir.
Do I also need to let the air out because I don't know how much liquid actually leaked out?
I like to keep the coolant level below the midpoint between the Max and Min levels when the engine is cold, that way when the coolant expands at operating temperature you won’t have overflow loss like you mentioned. Mine is right at about the Min level when cold right now and when it warms up it gets closer to the Max level. I’d recommend adding some fluid to that level and do a couple rounds of bleeding if you think there is air trapped in the system. When the system is fully bled of air, the fluid level should expand to a lesser extent, which will help.
Thanks a lot!
I'll try that and see how it goes.
How did you get your motor so clean?
Short answer: a lot of time and money.🤣
Long answer: The intake manifold and camshaft housing have been bead blasted and powder coated with satin clear. Most of the steel parts on display have been either replaced or re-plated with yellow zinc. Replacing the fluid reservoirs makes a big difference as well.
Hi, I'm looking for the reference numbers of the engine block drain bolt and sealing ring, do you have them?
Thanks in advance
Engine Block Drain Bolt M8x16: 900-075-087-03
Aluminum Sealing Ring 8x14: 900-123-105-30
@@NC944er Thanks a lot!
You can get a rubber fuel line hose and shove it in there and have it drain better less messy.
Is the oil drain crush washer is a different size from the engine block coolant drain crush washer? I am guessing that cannot be used
Yeah, the seal for the oil drain plug is 22x27, the engine block drain bolt is 8x14.
Here’s some links:
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90012310530OEM.htm?pn=900-123-105-30-OEM&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=1022
www.belmetric.com/aluminum-washers-c-4_2122/ga8x14x10-aluminum-gasket-p-12795.html?zenid=20q8501nlcplhe1oha9t7sag96
@@NC944er You are a life saver.. I just called into Pelican Parts to threw a few of those in my order before it shipped. I just recently had oil get into the coolant system and my guess is that the oil cooler seals went.. I am assuming it will be wise to do a few flushes from the engine block afterwards. Thanks for the really quick reply
@@Seagrams Yep! It’s a bit more work to do the full flush, but worth it to get the system nice and clean.
What coolant for a 1987 924s? Thanks..
The main thing is to use a phosphate-free coolant made for aluminum engine blocks. I use Peak Blue “European,” as it’s locally available from AutoZone, but there are a number of compatible options available from other manufacturers as well.
@@NC944er Thank you!!
Is it the same procedure for the 951 Turbo?
Hey Howard, yes the process is “generally” the same on the Turbo cars, with just a few extra challenges, like most things on the 951. The bleeder screw is positioned horizontally rather than vertically like on the NA, and it’s partially blocked by the right intercooler pipe, some folks remove that pipe for easier access when venting the system. If you’ve drained the engine block, refilling the block with the upper radiator hose is another challenge as it’s partially blocked by the crossover pipe. You may consider disconnecting the metal return line where it meets the flanged water neck at the top of the cylinder head and refilling there with a funnel and short length of hose attached. Either way, prepare for some mess. 😂
If u wanna not make mess a great tip no need to remove all the way out minimum half way than u would not have gad coolant spraying all over the floor
Where did you find the crush washer for the engine block coolant drain? Having a hard time finding those.
The engine block drain bolt uses an 8x14 aluminum crush washer.
Here are some links:
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90012310530OEM.htm?pn=900-123-105-30-OEM&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=1022
www.belmetric.com/aluminum-washers-c-4_2122/ga8x14x10-aluminum-gasket-p-12795.html?zenid=20q8501nlcplhe1oha9t7sag96
@@NC944er Thanks again!
What year is your 944?
Hey! It’s a 1988 model year.
@@NC944er should I use the top hose and add directly into the radiator also I've already added to the block through the hose.
@@BennysBenz Hey, no… it’s not necessary to fill the radiator from the top hose connection, just the engine block. The radiator will fill directly from the reservoir/tank when you top up the coolant.
This is taking forever to bleed, it is blowing really hot air in the car now, but the temp gauge is still way up so I've been running the car waiting for the thermostat to open and then shutting off the car undoing the bleep screw then repeat. The expansion tank is going down and I've been adding to it hopefully I'll eventually get this cleared out.
@@BennysBenz Yeah, it can be frustrating. Sometimes it takes 4-6 venting cycles to get all the air out. I generally drive mine and bring a 12mm wrench with me to vent it. Take it to the store or gas station, etc, vent it, drive it home, vent it, repeat. 😂