Part three of my assembly video of the Rook mostly printed CoreXY 3d printer! My Discord / discord Github github.com/rolohaun/Rook Support me on Patreon / rolohaun My Instagram / rolohaun
This version distinctly feels more like a Rook in styling with a squared off top. Also, great to see the evolution removing parts where discovered, and regularizing parts, which can greatly help with repairs/original sourcing for getting costs down: depending on the part and where you get them, it’s not uncommon to be required to buy a minimum number >1, an easy example being thermistors on amazon, where you end up getting 5, but how often do you replace thermistors? The best part is no part, because there’s no expense for it and it removes things that can fail.
Great tips! The only major thing I changed on my Rook is the Ender 3 hotend mount, testing a few designs to get both a tight grip on the belt but no binding on the linear rail.
Nice and thank's for sharing! My only Problem is the bottom to print (prusa mini). I think the try some wood for the bottom, because i have some around...i love the rook it's tiny, small and looks really nice! Thanks for sharing and stay safe!
The simplified bill of materials is huge, that and cost been my biggest obstacle for most DIY projects. I'm trying to do a similar thing with DIY filament extrusion, but most of my parts are from Amazon and thus unreliable for sourcing. Also can't use as many printed parts. I wonder if it'd be possible to print the linear rails and many structural components too. Maybe out of a specialized low-friction engineering material like Delrin, which can apparently be a pain to print.
it may be possible to print some motion parts however every printer prints slightly different and it may be hard to get the tolerances right. Linear rods and bearing are very cheap and probably the best route to make a inexpensive motion system
@@Rolohaun how is their "mystery box" filaments. Cheap price for 4 x1kg. Did you have any discount codes to Canadian sights? I swear 3dhub or some sight I was about to order from, discount code was mentioned/posted. somewhere but can't find it now.
@@eminence55 I have a discount code for 3dhub.ca use "rolo3d" they are awesome for hotends and other parts. I don't have a discount code for sparta yet and I haven't tried their mystery box.
@@webslinger2011 it does have a 3010 fan mount on the front, there are no layer cooling fans on the stock rook toolhead just the rear mounted blower. There are mods on the discord though!
Something I have been wondering about since I first saw the rook: You say everything can be printed from PLA, but PETG would be better. Doesn't the heat from the steppers soften up the PLA too much? (Glas point temp of ~60°C) I'm asking because I'm not comfortable printing PETG and pretty much only use PLA...
In another video he was saying petg if you want a little more heat resistance. I’d say abs is a better option but the parts are a bit big and might warp.
ABS/ASA is certainly an option, if you have the ability to print it accurately. If you don't plan to enclose the Rook, you can also just use cheap PLA.
You mean one side only, or two screws mechanically linked? It might be ok with one side, being so small. My old CR-10 does fine with one-sided Z, and that's 300mm bed. But that has wheels on adjustable eccentric centers so you can get the preload on them just right. LM8UU may have a bit too much play. LM8LUU would be more likely to work, but may cut into your usable Z range. I wish SBR8UU were more readily available. Such a brilliant design, making the preload adjustable so manufacturing precision doesn't have to be perfect/expensive.
@@dekutree64 Yes, mechanically linked. It's nice to not have to worry about one side falling lower than the other when the motors are off. The Z motor could be mounted in the front or back, then use a GT belt loop, and bearings/GT2 Pulleys on the two Z screws. I have similar setup on my FT-5 Printer
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[1/2] ก็ไม่ได้ชอบเอาชนะ แต่เรื่องอะไรต้องแพ้!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JraaBYOd7I0/mqdefault.jpg)
I tend to imagine the belt loops as a "p" and "q" (or "b" and "d" from the perspective of this video).
This version distinctly feels more like a Rook in styling with a squared off top.
Also, great to see the evolution removing parts where discovered, and regularizing parts, which can greatly help with repairs/original sourcing for getting costs down: depending on the part and where you get them, it’s not uncommon to be required to buy a minimum number >1, an easy example being thermistors on amazon, where you end up getting 5, but how often do you replace thermistors?
The best part is no part, because there’s no expense for it and it removes things that can fail.
Hey you should make a video of your favorite mods I think that would be nice to see
That intro animation is dope. Gonna watch it a couple more times.
This is looking pretty sweet. Like the styling changes you've made since the yellow square guy.
Great tips! The only major thing I changed on my Rook is the Ender 3 hotend mount, testing a few designs to get both a tight grip on the belt but no binding on the linear rail.
nice one!
Nice and thank's for sharing! My only Problem is the bottom to print (prusa mini). I think the try some wood for the bottom, because i have some around...i love the rook it's tiny, small and looks really nice! Thanks for sharing and stay safe!
nicely done. looking great!
Vc é fera demais!
i love ittt
The simplified bill of materials is huge, that and cost been my biggest obstacle for most DIY projects. I'm trying to do a similar thing with DIY filament extrusion, but most of my parts are from Amazon and thus unreliable for sourcing. Also can't use as many printed parts.
I wonder if it'd be possible to print the linear rails and many structural components too. Maybe out of a specialized low-friction engineering material like Delrin, which can apparently be a pain to print.
it may be possible to print some motion parts however every printer prints slightly different and it may be hard to get the tolerances right. Linear rods and bearing are very cheap and probably the best route to make a inexpensive motion system
@@Rolohaun ah, thank you for explaining why it’s infeasible.
One of the best filament combos I’ve ever seen, please share what you used🔥
sparta3d.ca/ filament, Galaxy Purple PLA and PETG+ Galaxy Obsidian
@@Rolohaun how is their "mystery box" filaments. Cheap price for 4 x1kg. Did you have any discount codes to Canadian sights? I swear 3dhub or some sight I was about to order from, discount code was mentioned/posted. somewhere but can't find it now.
@@eminence55 I have a discount code for 3dhub.ca use "rolo3d" they are awesome for hotends and other parts. I don't have a discount code for sparta yet and I haven't tried their mystery box.
I'm curious what results you would get when running input shaper.
I got 40k or so on X and Y but very messy graphs
Any improved stl's for the x carriage ender 3 hotend mount? Thanks!
yes the ender 3 style hotend mount is on the github
@@Rolohaun Printed that single model but I didn’t like it. Looking for other designs with a mounted fan perhaps? Thanks!
@@webslinger2011 it does have a 3010 fan mount on the front, there are no layer cooling fans on the stock rook toolhead just the rear mounted blower. There are mods on the discord though!
@@Rolohaun It seems that the 4020 ducted fan can be used for part cooling. Going to mount it in front of the hotend fan.
13:12 Not sure if mine is counted, but most of my 220 bed conversion is printed so maybe #8 on the way
Hey, is PETG an option for printing Rook parts or should I stick with PLA Pro?
PLA PRO is best but the black frame parts in this video were PETG so it does work
Something I have been wondering about since I first saw the rook: You say everything can be printed from PLA, but PETG would be better.
Doesn't the heat from the steppers soften up the PLA too much? (Glas point temp of ~60°C)
I'm asking because I'm not comfortable printing PETG and pretty much only use PLA...
my motors do not get that hot, the toolhead is very light and doesn't need much current
how many belts does this use?:O is it 1 4 meter long belt, or 2 2 meter belts?
the BOM is a 4 meter long so there is extra
can I print this in abs?
no that's illegal
In another video he was saying petg if you want a little more heat resistance. I’d say abs is a better option but the parts are a bit big and might warp.
ABS/ASA is certainly an option, if you have the ability to print it accurately. If you don't plan to enclose the Rook, you can also just use cheap PLA.
I'd say print this in ABS and then design and print an enclosure made of ABS. 😁
Teacher: I don't know, can you?
I'd like to see a version with a single Z motor.
You mean one side only, or two screws mechanically linked? It might be ok with one side, being so small. My old CR-10 does fine with one-sided Z, and that's 300mm bed. But that has wheels on adjustable eccentric centers so you can get the preload on them just right. LM8UU may have a bit too much play. LM8LUU would be more likely to work, but may cut into your usable Z range. I wish SBR8UU were more readily available. Such a brilliant design, making the preload adjustable so manufacturing precision doesn't have to be perfect/expensive.
@@dekutree64 Yes, mechanically linked. It's nice to not have to worry about one side falling lower than the other when the motors are off. The Z motor could be mounted in the front or back, then use a GT belt loop, and bearings/GT2 Pulleys on the two Z screws. I have similar setup on my FT-5 Printer