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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.พ. 2023
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This. All of this. This is what the 3D printing community needs, perhaps more than ever in recent times. No drama, no controversy, just this.
Thank you for doing what you do.
Check Voron Legacy belt for XY, and maybe instead decreasing size just try to use “standard” 235x235 bed size ;-) also hexagon frame could look amazing ;-)
Nice! Looking forward to the updates! :)
Awesome man!
Started following you for a while now, just wanted to say congrats for the success your having! Really happy for you 💪🏻
Thanks for the heads up. I will hold on building the 180 :)
This one really looks good 👍. Thanks for sharing 💕
Good work man 😀
Thank you for doing this. I have just about finished building my Rook180
thank you!
Awesome! Really looking forward to the full release. One thing you could do as an optional build alternative would be to use a standard 4-Axis Motherboard and wire the three Z-steppers in parallel to a single stepper driver, which would be set to a higher current. To make the wiring easier you could even design a 1-to-3 splitter pcb to make use of your sponsor ;) That way you would lose the ability to control the steppers individually, but reduce the BOM cost. Alternativley you could connect all three Z-belts to a single pulley system with just one stepper, further reducing cost.
I thought about this however it added complexity with a specific belt for Z and a bunch of bearings and idlers and pulleys. It does really help much.
So great! really coming together! with your new update I hope you're able to somehow incorporate modularity with the connector pieces so people really can scale up the printer while only printing on a 180 bed
I am just going to make the parts more equal in size, I will still keep the 180 printable size. There are 235 size mods on the discord though
The era of high-speed printing has begun, and flsun is the leaders of the fast era , review flsun V400
I wish flsun would send me one I love delta printers, I will be building more custom ones on my channel
I am very impressed with the z-tilt levelling
It's a cool feature
Thanks!
Thank you!
I just finished printing out all the parts to build a 225 version this morning..lol. I love that you want to make the pieces smaller as I had a hell of a time trying to get this on my 180mm bed with basically 2.5mm to spare on x/y and depending on orientation the z on my tronxy crux1 is only 178 so I had 1mm of space. Some parts lifted off the corner for the frame so I might need to reprint when my rods arrive. But this is a heck of a cool printer for me to learn wiring and klipper etc.
That is awesome!
i'm loving it.....and waiting for the latest update......but would like a ender3 sized bed.
why not make it like a Simplicity with open front ?
Bummer almost done printing in ABS, but so long as it works. Finally got X1-Carbon to print with no warping.
A side by side comparison would be very powerful. Your Rook 180 next to your X1 Carbon. Both of them doing the exact same print, starting at the exact same time. And when both printers are finished, you comparing the results of your Rook to the X1. That would be a powerful video. You could make it as a short using time-lapse. If you do it, I'll send you some mullah.
I will be designing a printer to compare with the x1 soon
@@Rolohaun great news!
@@Rolohaun I just sent Bamboo Labs an email saying I’m not going to open the box when it finally arrives, and I will pay to send it back, or forwards it to whomever if they refund the full amount I paid for it. Nathan Builds Robots is having a heck of a time with his P1P. I don’t think you should try to copy Bbl’s machine. It turns out that the bar they set even they can’t meet. What a mess. A really fast core XY that prints high quality results is still the challenge. Building a machine that users can maintain, mod, and repair should also be in that list. Bbl is going to be buried in repairs. They’re going to close their doors and disappear. I’m very concerned that their entire operation will go right down the shitter at this point.
@@corlissmedia2.0 I still love my Bambu Lab X1c, however I am not going to copy the bambu printer it will be my own design, with open source parts and easy to build and maintain
Thanks for the update! Any chance you can do a video describing some thoughts on older builds, the good, the bad, etc... My favorite was the simplecore before it was turned into a voron. I really like the open view to the printhead look. Bar or belts in the way make it harder to work with.
I have plans to combine SimpleCore Legacy and some of my others to make it unique and not a voron
@@Rolohaun I look forward to it!!!
@@Rolohaun Yes please 🙏
Frustrated with my alfawise U30 Pro (but not the Longer one, the Tronhoo with basically no firmware support), i was agonizing over what to do to revive the flame of 3D printing. The algorithm pushed me here and now I'm agonizing over "do I go for the rook evo, keep the U30 pro" or "go all in on Rook 180" :D Ahhh, choices...
I try to make all my printer fun to build and great in there own way. Defiantly check out my discord!
the thing that u need to print me asap is mount for heater block cables, the solder points are not very strong and are very eazy to damage espacially if cables are moving. My friend had to change all chc heating block 2 times because the solder points get damaged
I will add some cable strain on the MK1 release
If you do redesign the frame, I would keep some space for a dedicated purge/wipe area.
I will try
@Rolohaun IDEX would be nice too. 😉
@Sean Taffert I know someone on youtube is working in a tool changer
If the overall dimensions could sneak under 330x360x330 aka Ikea Kallax it would be awesome
I'm working on a printer like that! It will be Core XY and will reuse many parts from Ender-3.
@@darekmistrz4364 awesome
May I recommend you change your firmware to do at least 2 and maybe 3 probes when doing the Z tilt - I found that resulted in much less re-tries and Z tilt went a lot quicker. Thats on my RatRig, not a rook, but the same idea.
I for sure am going to experiment with that
The actual problem is incorrect config values for "z_positions", the coordinates of points where the belts hold the bed frame. The point of adjustment is different from the point being probed, and Klipper needs to know their respective coordinates in order to scale the measured deviation. I measured the CAD and I think with these values it will converge much more quickly:
z_positions:
-40, -2
90, 250
220, -2
Is it possible to build this printer with a 350×350mm heated bed?
you would want to look into my SimpleCore
I was wondering if the lower the bed is while printing, do ringing artifacts not increase due the fact that the hotend is in effect on 4 skinny stilts?
I have printed in vase mod with no issues and users have printed with vase mode prints with the Rook MK1. This printer uses heavy 12mm steel rods that go into the very pretty far it is nice and solid
@@Rolohaun and what sort of speeds can the rook achieve, if flow rate is not an issue? I mean anything can print up to 100mm/s with the proper tuning. But can the rook go beyond that within acceptable quality? (I know relative quality is a subjective metric but I don't know how to put it) I'm seriously considering making one. Maybe I should just build it and experience it. 🤔 -after your rework-
Hi is this possible to print on a anycubic mega s wotj a build area of 210x210x205 ? Thanks
yes that should be fine, it was made to be printable on a ender 3, MK1 of this printer is out soon. Join my discord or keep and I on the channel when it comes out
Have you thought about designing a printer repurposing Ender 3 parts? I know many of us have several printers that are just sitting around now. They’re hardly worth selling and maybe there is a way to use parts from 2 to make a budget corexy. Idk, just an idea.
I have, it's just hard to use the frame. I think there is already a Ender 3 corexy conversion project out there
I'm working on Core XY printer that uses many parts from Ender-3. It mostly focuses on external limitation being 330x330x380mm because I want it to fit into Kallax shelfing system from Ikea.
@@darekmistrz4364 that is a cool project for sure
@@Rolohaun It is, but what I want to focus on when it's done is full portability. I want to fit in a LIPO battery and make it work on car's 12V cigarette lighter plug. THAT will be cool and finally will allow me to design and 3d print parts on the go
Are there plans to make an enclosure for this printer?
you can create a DXF file from the CAD and get acrylic panels cut, there are 3mm holes in the frame. I would wait till the MK1 revision is done
@@Rolohaun Thank you!
We could use some more people to play games 😂
Fabreeko link?
www.fabreeko.com/products/rook-mk1-by-rolohaun-3d-pre-order
@@Rolohaun figures, I already have most of my Mk1 ordered.
Any video on the X1 Carbon coming soon?
I do want to make an update video! I was going to print some TPU, anything else you would like to see?
is this just not "the 100 printer" replica? looks like its copy
The 100 is based on this, plus there are differences
@@Rolohaun ah nice, then great work. I shall have to read into it more, looks like a great printer
@LeeDegiorgio yes both are, Matt was I spired by the Rook and Rook 180 and made the 100. He is also on my discord