You're absolutely right about needing a flat on the face of the gauge - had my Veritas dual gauge roll off the bench last week & take a chunk off the outside wheel...🙁
I agree with your comments Rob on the old style marking gauges. I have two, one I inherited from my wife's grandfather, a Cabinet Maker and a Marple's I bought myself twenty or more years ago. Both are still sharp enough to make a deep hole in a finger or thumb, but will shred a piece of soft wood. The wheel type is on my buy list for the end of the summer. My vegetable garden has taken me out of my woodwork shed till the autumn. I am building some nice raised vegetable beds though, champhered edges and fully squared. Best raised beds in the area thanks to all your tips and tutorials.
Great video and full of good info as usual. When I adjust my wheel marking gauge with a ruler I place the cutter in the indented mark on the ruler for the preferred measurement and I lock up there. If I'm doing that lightly is that OK. And how do you sharpen when you are down to the screw head.
Years ago I bought a pin marking gauge, used it once and put it back in the drawer for the very reasons you mentioned. I have three wheel gauges now and use them as you described.
Rob, You NEVER use a marking guage across the grain. You use a Cutting guage, the one with the knife blade. You use the marking guage WITH the grain. It has Nothing to do with filing the pin. How can you NOT know this?? Such misinformation 😮 WTF dude?
Rob your doing God's work which is an excellent excuse, but I've got to say I miss your TH-cam video presence as of late. Please understand I say that out of selfishness and wouldn't wish it to change because we know what your doing with the php and classes for these vets. Your a real one my friend, I'm honored to own your tools and get to watch your videos, wishing you the best from the midwest!!
Again, an excellent video. I agree that the cutters are positioned well for the tenon (11:27) - chamfer outward. This would create sharp/square lines for marking/sawing the tenon. Do you ever reverse them for laying out the mortise or does the chisel compensate for the slight chamfer created by the bevel as mentioned earlier (3:58) - especially for thru mortises. Or is this just too picky?
After sharpening the cutter like you have shown in the video, I tried something that worked a bit easier for me. I left it in the gauge and set down two strips of shim stock on the diamond plate with just enough space between them to accommodate the cutter diameter plus a bit of clearance. Then with the cutter out just enough to touch the plate it's a lot easier to sharpen. slight taps on the rod gets the cutter out a thousandths a time until it's sharp. This also ensures that it's flat to the gauge. Might be worth a try, even though it's not a daily task. I agree about the ones with the rubber O rings. Thought that was great until I started doing dovetails and found that dropping the cutter down to set thickness was easier without the oring.
Hey Rob, I finally made my first bench! It's not as nice as yours, but it's based on a Moravian knockdown bench. I'm using 18mm ply for the top, so I can easily move it outside to use my router sled. Anyway, I just wanted to say thank you for all the lessons, especially the tusked tenon episode, which helped me immensely!
Hi Rob, I just noticed that unlike the one in the video my Rob Cosman marking gauge uses allen key to tighten the wheel. Can I change it to a Phillips crew like the other from the video?
I’m left handed, because of the direction that I go, the screw will un-screws itself! Other than loc tite, is there something else I can do to keep the screw tight??
Was debating whether I needed the flat edge on mine. Tomorrow's first project 😊. Best teacher I've had in my middle aged years. You do the world a service sir.
A concise and clear video both explaining and demonstrating the use of wheel type marking gauges. The reasons for favouring this type of gauge as compared to more traditional types is provided. The advice on the maintenance of the cutter and what key features such gauges should have to provide accuracy , along with different applications of the tool was most helpful. Many thanks to Team Cosman for continuing to supply superb woodworking videos and information.
The ‘Hand Tools’ you sell represent what a new woodworker truly needs, not the acquisition of plug-ins like, sanders and drills. They forget that they have to perform a simple task like measuring the wood they’re cutting.
Slowly but surely he morphs into a Grizzly……….
I am thinking for or an ancient greek warrior!!!!!!!
Ancient Greek warrior… mmmmmaybe
I built a simple wooden pin gauge. Later I bought just the cutting blade from your store Rob and screwed it into the end. works great.
Now that's a pair of working man's hands. What the heck have you been doing Rob bricklaying, concrete flat work?
Great video as always.
You're absolutely right about needing a flat on the face of the gauge - had my Veritas dual gauge roll off the bench last week & take a chunk off the outside wheel...🙁
Ouch! Grind a flat spot on it
I agree with your comments Rob on the old style marking gauges. I have two, one I inherited from my wife's grandfather, a Cabinet Maker and a Marple's I bought myself twenty or more years ago. Both are still sharp enough to make a deep hole in a finger or thumb, but will shred a piece of soft wood.
The wheel type is on my buy list for the end of the summer. My vegetable garden has taken me out of my woodwork shed till the autumn. I am building some nice raised vegetable beds though, champhered edges and fully squared. Best raised beds in the area thanks to all your tips and tutorials.
10:27 Wow! That's a really good tip. It acts sort of like a router plane when you do that.
Thanks for the tips!!
Great vid! Can you please tell me where can i get this marking gauge?
another great video thanks for sharing it
You bet Jim
Great video and full of good info as usual. When I adjust my wheel marking gauge with a ruler I place the cutter in the indented mark on the ruler for the preferred measurement and I lock up there. If I'm doing that lightly is that OK. And how do you sharpen when you are down to the screw head.
Years ago I bought a pin marking gauge, used it once and put it back in the drawer for the very reasons you mentioned. I have three wheel gauges now and use them as you described.
Rob, You NEVER use a marking guage across the grain. You use a Cutting guage, the one with the knife blade.
You use the marking guage WITH the grain. It has Nothing to do with filing the pin.
How can you NOT know this??
Such misinformation 😮
WTF dude?
Rob your doing God's work which is an excellent excuse, but I've got to say I miss your TH-cam video presence as of late. Please understand I say that out of selfishness and wouldn't wish it to change because we know what your doing with the php and classes for these vets. Your a real one my friend, I'm honored to own your tools and get to watch your videos, wishing you the best from the midwest!!
Again, an excellent video. I agree that the cutters are positioned well for the tenon (11:27) - chamfer outward. This would create sharp/square lines for marking/sawing the tenon. Do you ever reverse them for laying out the mortise or does the chisel compensate for the slight chamfer created by the bevel as mentioned earlier (3:58) - especially for thru mortises. Or is this just too picky?
After sharpening the cutter like you have shown in the video, I tried something that worked a bit easier for me. I left it in the gauge and set down two strips of shim stock on the diamond plate with just enough space between them to accommodate the cutter diameter plus a bit of clearance. Then with the cutter out just enough to touch the plate it's a lot easier to sharpen. slight taps on the rod gets the cutter out a thousandths a time until it's sharp. This also ensures that it's flat to the gauge. Might be worth a try, even though it's not a daily task.
I agree about the ones with the rubber O rings. Thought that was great until I started doing dovetails and found that dropping the cutter down to set thickness was easier without the oring.
Hey Rob, I finally made my first bench! It's not as nice as yours, but it's based on a Moravian knockdown bench. I'm using 18mm ply for the top, so I can easily move it outside to use my router sled. Anyway, I just wanted to say thank you for all the lessons, especially the tusked tenon episode, which helped me immensely!
Glad to be of assistance, enjoy your bench!
hi Rob. I always trust your judgement and recommendations. Would you please tell what brand of marking gauge you are using in your video? Thanks!
My own, we make them here in the shop. Robcosman.com
Great channel, subbed
Hi Rob, I just noticed that unlike the one in the video my Rob Cosman marking gauge uses allen key to tighten the wheel. Can I change it to a Phillips crew like the other from the video?
Hippy Bob looking good
Thanks
Super Rob
Just back from filing a flat edge on my gauge :-) You always have priceless information Rob.
I just purchased one this morning before watching the video. Thanks Rob.
The CAF starts allowing its members to have long hair, now Rob has long hair. Coincidence? 🤔
SO MANY tips and tricks in a Rob Cosman video. Thanks Rob! !! !!!
I’m left handed, because of the direction that I go, the screw will un-screws itself! Other than loc tite, is there something else I can do to keep the screw tight??
Is that a wig?
Was debating whether I needed the flat edge on mine. Tomorrow's first project 😊. Best teacher I've had in my middle aged years. You do the world a service sir.
🎉
Rite Rob Dude, Great info! TFS, GB :)
Thanks for this comprehensive guide on the wheel gauge Rob. 👍
Not sure how I feel about that intro... but I did enjoy the video!
Good information, well presented.🙂🙂
Thank you Rob. That was a nice video.
Excellent as always. Thank you.
A concise and clear video both explaining and demonstrating the use of wheel type marking gauges. The reasons for favouring this type of gauge as compared to more traditional types is provided. The advice on the maintenance of the cutter and what key features such gauges should have to provide accuracy , along with different applications of the tool was most helpful. Many thanks to Team Cosman for continuing to supply superb woodworking videos and information.
Thanks Jeff. Glad you found it useful
Great video! I have a Rob Cosman wishlist in the thousands, and growing!
Wow. You could likely help us organize them. Send us some recommended video subjects
Thanks
As always Rob, great presentation. JimE
Thanks
Rob are you wearing a wig
Nope. That's all mine
Great share yet again. Cheers.
Thanks for watching and commenting
The ‘Hand Tools’ you sell represent what a new woodworker truly needs, not the acquisition of plug-ins like, sanders and drills. They forget that they have to perform a simple task like measuring the wood they’re cutting.
Well said
thanks
Thank you for watching
Sauber (D)
thanks
What stage of transition is Rob in?
Not called a slitting guage but rather a cutting guage.
Not called a pin guage but rather a marking guage.
Learn and use the proper names.
Mom always told me…”if you have nothing good to say…don’t say anything at all!”
I’ve found that to be a very good life lesson.