I've been a Surgical Technician since 1973. I've always been impressed with how much wood working techniques and instruments are involved in orthopedics. Especially when fixing fractures. There's also a Toronto Mallet for orthopedics, that's metal, and is the same shape as the wooden one you have in the video. God bless
Having a chisel that is as thick as it is wide is huge help in preventing the tool from twisting as one works. This really goes to the point that there are almost no tool makers whose tools are both ready and most importantly suitable for work. The tool "designers" have long ago ceased to be tool users. I can report from personal experience that any tool that Rob reccomends WILL do the work, and will do it in a superior fashion compaired to anything else on the market.
wonderful tips mate, especially the wheel marking gauge for cleaning the bottom of the mortise....using it like a miniture router plane...very clever. Thank you
These are more than just tips IMHO. They are best practices that if followed will produce first quality results, and will do so consistently. Very well captured/videoed, articulately presented, just the essentials without any extraneous fluff. In short... Another great Cosman video. Thanks much RC!!
Man... Looks like I've been using the wrong chisel for a long time. Never realized how much of a difference it made cutting square holes. Thank you Rob for this EXTREMELY informative video.
That was terrific, felt like I was party to secret knowledge imparted from some ancient guild that my great granpappy would’ve understood. Clear as a bell and well communicated, many thanks.
hey rob. love your tips! on tip 9 i was actually surprised that you didn't talk at least in part on using a dovetail mallet. which when made right is engineered to help you hit square. just rather intrigued you did not address the tool. i suppose as you say personal preference. keep it up the great videos!
I think you mean the perpendicular lines to keep your chisel aligned. I just want to make sure othere understand what you are commenting on. Glad I was able to give you a useful tip
When you get to tip #6, check out a chisel guide invented by Paul Sellers that takes minutes to make and will last forever. Takes the guesswork out of chisel alignment vertically. No need to reach for another piece of “straight stock” and unnecessary clamping, you have a vise, use it. You can make up several of these guides to suit a desired mortise location. For items that can’t be held with your vise, use that block of wood or straight edge.
Wheel marking gauges are so useful you can't imagine why anyone would want the old ones with pins, I've got three of the old style which I feel I should keep using - but don't. Waiting for a Swiss Army wheel marking gauge that doubles as a bench plane, Forstner bit, chisel and saw; then I can throw all the other stuff away and travel light. 😀😀
@@chrisjordan4210 when marking out on thin large panels I prefer the old style because of the larger reference face. For dovetails wheel all the way for mortise and tenons I grab which ever is closer.
@@James_T_Kirk_1701 I have two wheel gauges, one by Veritas and my original one by a Czech firm Groz, it has a rather odd layout, the stock/fence is brass-faced 122x23mm (I just measured it) so much wider than the traditional gauges and it has a calibrated shaft. I've had it for years and now looking at it anew it's really quite a wonderful tool in its Rosewood, brass, and steel - if you could find one I would urge you to buy it 😀😀
Excellent video. Picked up a few new tips here even though I've watched your other mortise & tenon videos several times. Saving up for some IBC mortise chisels but only AFTER I get my hands on a 3/4 saw. Glad it's finally here. Been bugging you about it for 2 years. Thanks for everything, you've really helped me in my wood working journey.
Thanks for all the how-to’s and your follow ups as to the why’s. Excellent video Rob. I’ll be sure and put all this information to practice in my shop.
Excellent block of instruction, Rob~! I've not chopped a mortise yet, but I'm excited to try my first one and apply these techniques. Thanks so much~!!
Practical insight. A necessary skill, as you point out, for mortises in awkward places. Unfortunately, all that remains is to do it until attaining proficiency.
Rob, thank you so much for all the awesome tips once again! Putting the marking gauge line on only one side of the mortise and drawing the little perpendicular lines have been true game changers for me. Tip #11 should've been how to convince your family and neighborhood of the benefits of hand-chopping mortises 😉
I go nearly total freehand cutting dovetails, which I manage quite well on my opinion. But with mortise and tenon I always have hard times. Maybe because I don't own right tools for it. I'll practice your tips and see how it goes. Thank you Rob!
That guide block Method is a game changer for me!! I don't have anything that I'm working on right now that needs a mortise and tenon joint, but I'm gonna make a few tomorrow just as practice
Nice way of presenting it. This chopping technique goes by 'riding the bevel'. I use the same technique. Chisels square in cross section are so much better, I don't know If I can chop a mortise with those which are not square. I am glad to see that IBC makes mortise chisels, I almost wanted to say that IBC and LN are the only ones making chisels like this. Unfortunately LN removed the mortise chisels from their core tools list, unbelievable, I totally disagree with the decision. I am aware that they are dealing with some scalability issues, but the mortise chisels needs to return to the core tools.
For the serious wood worker with deep pockets, the best chisels in my mind are IBC chisels. At $120.00 USD they are pricey but are quality. Buy direct, buy Canadian , after all, they are made in Canada.👍🇨🇦👨🦳
Useful tips, thank you. Every video I’ve seen on chiseling mortices has the chisel blade at 90 degrees to the grain of the wood, in which case the angle of the bevel shears the wood segments against the grain neatly. I’m struggling with cutting mortices where the blade is parallel to the grain, and probably to make it worse, I’m working with pine. Here, the bevel tends to split the grain rather than shearing it. Any tips?
Great video Rob. How often do you chop mortises by hand as a pro? I am a hobbyist and own a router, but enjoy digging mortices by hand rather than using the router
If I am doing just a few mortices I will do them by hand as its quicker than setting up my mortice machine. More than 3 or 4 mortices and I machine cut them
thanks again for the timely lesson. i find myself in a situation where i have to cut a mortise that is over an inch wide. if there is a mortise chisel that wide i cant find it. do you have any advise for cutting a mortise that is wider than your chisel?
Thanks for the helpful tips, Rob. I am working on the mother of all mortise & tennon projects - 2" thick breadboard ends for a 4' wide table in maple. I started with Lie Nielson mortise chisels, but switched to the new IBC mortise chisels, which I absolutely love! Quick question: would you consider using a marking knife to make the paralle lines when you're laying out the mortises? That may give a better reference when setting your chisel in place, but I'm not sure it's a game changer
Mr. Cosman, what is more likely to fail when following the 1/3 rule: the tenon or the mortise?? If the mortise is stronger, would you recommend going with a thicker tenon?
Clamping the block on top to hold your chisel straight is brilliant idea. Rob could change thousands of dollars for these kinds of tips if he was to do private classes and we get it all here for free. What a guy
It would even more brilliant if he came up with the idea rather than cutting and pasting it from others. This way is a more awkward adaptation of a certain older Englishman that shows the same idea (years ago). It is best and the gentleman thing to do, to give credit to where one gets the ideas. Just saying.
@@danthechippie4439 No questions about that- -but, it was someone else's "brilliant" idea. When you copy it, it is just a good idea. Now, when you give credit where credit is due, then you both are brilliant.
@@bestbuilder1st like everyone else, I give credit to anyone who passes a good idea or new skill on to me. I don't stop and ask if it's their own original idea or if they aqired it from someone else. I assume you are referring to Paul Sellers, maybe someone else. Assuming for the moment it was Paul can I also assume you made sure it was his idea and not someone else. Carpenters have been handling good ideas down from father to son to work colleagues since the most famous carpenter of us all and I'm happy to be given that knowledge and to pass it on
Thanks Rob! Typically I build a jig and use a router and then use a bevel edge chisel to square the corners in the mortise. But this looks like something that I want to do and now I have to buy mortise chisels. Looking at the way you do this, I am guessing that a drill to remove some of the waste would make using the chisel more difficult. What are your thoughts on using a power tool to remove some of the waste and then cleaning it up with a mortise chisel? One of the things that I don't like about a mortise chisel is tend to pinch on the sides too hard and then there is blood all over everything
Don....You dont want to drill out the waste if using a mortise chisel. Drill the waste then paring the walls is a completely different technique which I dont recommend except on really really big joints. Just use the mortise chisel to cut the mortise...you will love it. With a mortise chisel you should not be holding the blade, only the handle. Different than a bench chisel
I like your pencil drawn line technique for chopping the mortise. For beginners like myself, what about doing those lines with a marking knife instead so you have a reference cut to place your chisel into that will be perfectly parallel when chopping?
That would work well, you would just need to be careful not to mark too far over. Pencil line can be easily removed, the knife marks would have to be contained inside the shoulder of the tenon. A good idea for beginners
Am wondering why you create a slight secondary bevel when sharpening and by then just variably (and inaccurately) liifting it freehand, the angle of which varies between stones and thereby creates a nonlinear edge? Seems that you'd want that cutting edge to be in the exact same plane as the rest of the bevel face given a secondary bevel would potentially cause slight off axis cuts as you chop?
Really helpful video. Thanks. One thing I haven't been able to understand is how come you go from 1K and then straight to 16K grit when sharpening the cutting edge, but when polishing the back you go through the grits to remove all the scratches from the previous grit. Doesn't it leave scratches from previous grit, or doesn't it matter. I must admit that I do what you do because you're a way more experienced cat skinner than I am, but I don't understand why I'm doing it. What's the difference? Please excuse my stupid...I'm old.
Just the size of the area being sharpened (or polished). If you're doing the entire back of the chisel, it would take a very long time to get from 1,000 to 16,000 grit polish, whereas on a tiny micro bevel, it takes no time at all to get rid of the 1,000 scratches.
Roco is right on. It only works when sharpening right on the thin cutting edge and using a tierterary bevel. It works because you are working on such a small bit of metal. When flattening a chisel back its just the opposite, you are working on a large metal area and have to progress through all the grits
По поводу момента на 16 минуте (tip # 6) - Paul Sellers советует вместо отдельного куска, который Роб крепит струбциной, использовать как шаблон заготовку второй части соединения. При условии, что она выполнена качественно, она будет базироваться двумя плоскостями, что определенно выгоднее. Советы и показ и так очень хороши, но даже такие можно еще улучшить :)
Could you use the tape trick with CA glue to hold a block in the center of a wide board or would it move a bit when pressing the chisel against it? I remember when you were fitting a drawer without handles you placed tape on the drawer front and on a block, then you put glue between the two so that you could have something to hold on to.
Any idea when you're going to get more IBC mortise chisels in? Lie Nielsen isn't making theirs right now. Also, thank you for the info. I was just wondering about sharpness and bevel angle.
I'm new to woodworking and never feel like my chisels are as sharp as they could be. Does a completely glossy back as you have on your chisels indicate that the back is completely flat. I seem unable to achieve this. There are always dull spots on the back of my chisel no matter how much time I spend on the diamond plate.
Good stuff Rob 😜like i didn't know about the needs to be a round hammer that makes sense!Oh well ill keep watching i like this kinda stuff what i mean is i have chisels but don't use them that way much , so i did need this lesson.thsnks tk.cpm
What is the reasoning behind sharpening your chisel to 15,000? Isn't there a point where the higher grit does nothing but polishes the steel? Do you sharpen all your tools to that high level?
Because 16K is the sweet spot between a very sharp cutting edge and the increasing costs for a higher grit stone. Does 16K make a difference over say 8K...you bet a HUGE difference. Polishing the leading edge is sharpening. You are getting rid of the tiny scratches that you did before. Yes I take almost all my blades to 16K
You're the guy. That means you speak truth. Unfortunately you make little sense. This this and that that... Wtf? Say what the heck you are referring to. Ten tips... No. Five. Brevity and accuracy of language works wonders.
Check out my playlist on Mortise and Tenons here: th-cam.com/play/PLqUOljnY0d9fZ8s6VC11GjKIHIf6e30xn.html
I've been a Surgical Technician since 1973. I've always been impressed with how much wood working techniques and instruments are involved in orthopedics. Especially when fixing fractures. There's also a Toronto Mallet for orthopedics, that's metal, and is the same shape as the wooden one you have in the video.
God bless
Having a chisel that is as thick as it is wide is huge help in preventing the tool from twisting as one works. This really goes to the point that there are almost no tool makers whose tools are both ready and most importantly suitable for work. The tool "designers" have long ago ceased to be tool users. I can report from personal experience that any tool that Rob reccomends WILL do the work, and will do it in a superior fashion compaired to anything else on the market.
Hi Laurence how are things in the PNW?
wonderful tips mate, especially the wheel marking gauge for cleaning the bottom of the mortise....using it like a miniture router plane...very clever. Thank you
These are more than just tips IMHO. They are best practices that if followed will produce first quality results, and will do so consistently. Very well captured/videoed, articulately presented, just the essentials without any extraneous fluff. In short... Another great Cosman video. Thanks much RC!!
I never fail to learn from your video’s, they are excellent.
Thank you.
From Missouri
Glad you like them!
Man... Looks like I've been using the wrong chisel for a long time. Never realized how much of a difference it made cutting square holes. Thank you Rob for this EXTREMELY informative video.
That was terrific, felt like I was party to secret knowledge imparted from some ancient guild that my great granpappy would’ve understood. Clear as a bell and well communicated, many thanks.
Like it a lot! "Those who can do. Those who cannot (yet) watch Rob Cosman."
hey rob. love your tips! on tip 9 i was actually surprised that you didn't talk at least in part on using a dovetail mallet. which when made right is engineered to help you hit square. just rather intrigued you did not address the tool. i suppose as you say personal preference. keep it up the great videos!
These are the vid's I learn the most from. Thanks a lot Rob.
I use the parallel lines and my mortises are way more accurate now. I learned that trick from this channel. Another great video rob!!
I think you mean the perpendicular lines to keep your chisel aligned. I just want to make sure othere understand what you are commenting on. Glad I was able to give you a useful tip
When you get to tip #6, check out a chisel guide invented by Paul Sellers that takes minutes to make and will last forever. Takes the guesswork out of chisel alignment vertically. No need to reach for another piece of “straight stock” and unnecessary clamping, you have a vise, use it. You can make up several of these guides to suit a desired mortise location. For items that can’t be held with your vise, use that block of wood or straight edge.
I love the marking gauge technique to scrape out the bottom of the mortise! Thank you for sharing!🙌💜
You are so welcome!
Wheel marking gauges are so useful you can't imagine why anyone would want the old ones with pins, I've got three of the old style which I feel I should keep using - but don't. Waiting for a Swiss Army wheel marking gauge that doubles as a bench plane, Forstner bit, chisel and saw; then I can throw all the other stuff away and travel light. 😀😀
@@chrisjordan4210 when marking out on thin large panels I prefer the old style because of the larger reference face. For dovetails wheel all the way for mortise and tenons I grab which ever is closer.
@@James_T_Kirk_1701 I have two wheel gauges, one by Veritas and my original one by a Czech firm Groz, it has a rather odd layout, the stock/fence is brass-faced 122x23mm (I just measured it) so much wider than the traditional gauges and it has a calibrated shaft. I've had it for years and now looking at it anew it's really quite a wonderful tool in its Rosewood, brass, and steel - if you could find one I would urge you to buy it 😀😀
Excellent video. Picked up a few new tips here even though I've watched your other mortise & tenon videos several times. Saving up for some IBC mortise chisels but only AFTER I get my hands on a 3/4 saw. Glad it's finally here. Been bugging you about it for 2 years. Thanks for everything, you've really helped me in my wood working journey.
It’s not quite ready, but will be up there very soon! Make sure you’re on our newsletter to get notified.
this week!
Thanks for all the how-to’s and your follow ups as to the why’s. Excellent video Rob. I’ll be sure and put all this information to practice in my shop.
Great tip about drawing lines to keep chisel perpendicular to the mortise sides.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent block of instruction, Rob~! I've not chopped a mortise yet, but I'm excited to try my first one and apply these techniques. Thanks so much~!!
This is ABSOLUTELY the MOST solid advice I have seen so far. 🪛
Practical insight. A necessary skill, as you point out, for mortises in awkward places. Unfortunately, all that remains is to do it until attaining proficiency.
Thanks for watching and commenting
The parallel lines, fence, and trough tips are going to help me a LOT.
They really are the easy path to great hand cut mortises
Rob, thank you so much for all the awesome tips once again! Putting the marking gauge line on only one side of the mortise and drawing the little perpendicular lines have been true game changers for me.
Tip #11 should've been how to convince your family and neighborhood of the benefits of hand-chopping mortises 😉
Let me ponder #11 for a while
😂😂
I go nearly total freehand cutting dovetails, which I manage quite well on my opinion. But with mortise and tenon I always have hard times. Maybe because I don't own right tools for it. I'll practice your tips and see how it goes. Thank you Rob!
Let me know how it goes
That guide block Method is a game changer for me!!
I don't have anything that I'm working on right now that needs a mortise and tenon joint, but I'm gonna make a few tomorrow just as practice
Practice makes you perfect. Letmeknow how they turn out
Nice way of presenting it. This chopping technique goes by 'riding the bevel'. I use the same technique. Chisels square in cross section are so much better, I don't know If I can chop a mortise with those which are not square.
I am glad to see that IBC makes mortise chisels, I almost wanted to say that IBC and LN are the only ones making chisels like this. Unfortunately LN removed the mortise chisels from their core tools list, unbelievable, I totally disagree with the decision. I am aware that they are dealing with some scalability issues, but the mortise chisels needs to return to the core tools.
Thats why we worked with IBC and made mortise chisels
For the serious wood worker with deep pockets, the best chisels in my mind are IBC chisels. At $120.00 USD they are pricey but are quality. Buy direct, buy Canadian , after all, they are made in Canada.👍🇨🇦👨🦳
Useful tips, thank you.
Every video I’ve seen on chiseling mortices has the chisel blade at 90 degrees to the grain of the wood, in which case the angle of the bevel shears the wood segments against the grain neatly.
I’m struggling with cutting mortices where the blade is parallel to the grain, and probably to make it worse, I’m working with pine. Here, the bevel tends to split the grain rather than shearing it. Any tips?
There’s some really good tips. Thanks.
Wonderful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great information. Thanks Rob!
GREAT VIDEOS! Always instructional. 👍🏻
Pura vida Rob great information about mortiser chisel and the hints of using them pura vida
thanks for commenting
Very good, thanks for sharing!
Great video Rob. How often do you chop mortises by hand as a pro? I am a hobbyist and own a router, but enjoy digging mortices by hand rather than using the router
If I am doing just a few mortices I will do them by hand as its quicker than setting up my mortice machine. More than 3 or 4 mortices and I machine cut them
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob!
thanks again for the timely lesson. i find myself in a situation where i have to cut a mortise that is over an inch wide. if there is a mortise chisel that wide i cant find it. do you have any advise for cutting a mortise that is wider than your chisel?
In that case I would drill out the waste then pare the walls constintly checking them so they are square to the face of the wood
Thanks for the helpful tips, Rob. I am working on the mother of all mortise & tennon projects - 2" thick breadboard ends for a 4' wide table in maple. I started with Lie Nielson mortise chisels, but switched to the new IBC mortise chisels, which I absolutely love!
Quick question: would you consider using a marking knife to make the paralle lines when you're laying out the mortises? That may give a better reference when setting your chisel in place, but I'm not sure it's a game changer
Mr. Cosman, what is more likely to fail when following the 1/3 rule: the tenon or the mortise?? If the mortise is stronger, would you recommend going with a thicker tenon?
Great Sunday lesson. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Another great demonstration. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
YOU FREAKING scribed that mortisen by HAND. Awesome
As always great video clear precise and practical. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Clamping the block on top to hold your chisel straight is brilliant idea. Rob could change thousands of dollars for these kinds of tips if he was to do private classes and we get it all here for free. What a guy
Glad you find our videos useful
It would even more brilliant if he came up with the idea rather than cutting and pasting it from others. This way is a more awkward adaptation of a certain older Englishman that shows the same idea (years ago). It is best and the gentleman thing to do, to give credit to where one gets the ideas. Just saying.
@@bestbuilder1st a good idea is a good idea
@@danthechippie4439 No questions about that- -but, it was someone else's "brilliant" idea. When you copy it, it is just a good idea. Now, when you give credit where credit is due, then you both are brilliant.
@@bestbuilder1st like everyone else, I give credit to anyone who passes a good idea or new skill on to me. I don't stop and ask if it's their own original idea or if they aqired it from someone else.
I assume you are referring to Paul Sellers, maybe someone else. Assuming for the moment it was Paul can I also assume you made sure it was his idea and not someone else.
Carpenters have been handling good ideas down from father to son to work colleagues since the most famous carpenter of us all and I'm happy to be given that knowledge and to pass it on
Thank you Rob!
Thanks Rob! Typically I build a jig and use a router and then use a bevel edge chisel to square the corners in the mortise. But this looks like something that I want to do and now I have to buy mortise chisels. Looking at the way you do this, I am guessing that a drill to remove some of the waste would make using the chisel more difficult. What are your thoughts on using a power tool to remove some of the waste and then cleaning it up with a mortise chisel? One of the things that I don't like about a mortise chisel is tend to pinch on the sides too hard and then there is blood all over everything
Don....You dont want to drill out the waste if using a mortise chisel. Drill the waste then paring the walls is a completely different technique which I dont recommend except on really really big joints. Just use the mortise chisel to cut the mortise...you will love it. With a mortise chisel you should not be holding the blade, only the handle. Different than a bench chisel
Excellent.
I like your pencil drawn line technique for chopping the mortise. For beginners like myself, what about doing those lines with a marking knife instead so you have a reference cut to place your chisel into that will be perfectly parallel when chopping?
That would work well, you would just need to be careful not to mark too far over. Pencil line can be easily removed, the knife marks would have to be contained inside the shoulder of the tenon. A good idea for beginners
Great tips as always! Just got my 1/4" IBC mortise chisel and it's great! Any idea when the 3/8" and the 1/2" will be in stock again?
We have a ton of them on order...IBC can be slow though, thery are essentually a one man shop
Am wondering why you create a slight secondary bevel when sharpening and by then just variably (and inaccurately) liifting it freehand, the angle of which varies between stones and thereby creates a nonlinear edge? Seems that you'd want that cutting edge to be in the exact same plane as the rest of the bevel face given a secondary bevel would potentially cause slight off axis cuts as you chop?
Thanks for the great tips!!!
You are so welcome!
Really helpful video. Thanks. One thing I haven't been able to understand is how come you go from 1K and then straight to 16K grit when sharpening the cutting edge, but when polishing the back you go through the grits to remove all the scratches from the previous grit. Doesn't it leave scratches from previous grit, or doesn't it matter. I must admit that I do what you do because you're a way more experienced cat skinner than I am, but I don't understand why I'm doing it. What's the difference? Please excuse my stupid...I'm old.
Just the size of the area being sharpened (or polished). If you're doing the entire back of the chisel, it would take a very long time to get from 1,000 to 16,000 grit polish, whereas on a tiny micro bevel, it takes no time at all to get rid of the 1,000 scratches.
Roco is right on. It only works when sharpening right on the thin cutting edge and using a tierterary bevel. It works because you are working on such a small bit of metal. When flattening a chisel back its just the opposite, you are working on a large metal area and have to progress through all the grits
По поводу момента на 16 минуте (tip # 6) - Paul Sellers советует вместо отдельного куска, который Роб крепит струбциной, использовать как шаблон заготовку второй части соединения. При условии, что она выполнена качественно, она будет базироваться двумя плоскостями, что определенно выгоднее. Советы и показ и так очень хороши, но даже такие можно еще улучшить :)
Could you use the tape trick with CA glue to hold a block in the center of a wide board or would it move a bit when pressing the chisel against it? I remember when you were fitting a drawer without handles you placed tape on the drawer front and on a block, then you put glue between the two so that you could have something to hold on to.
Never tried it. I would worry that it would not hold it secure enough. Give it a try and let me know
You are dope!
Thank you
thanks
Thanks , learned some new tricks 👍👍
Hi Eric....
Hi. Good show last night. But then they all are .👍👍
Any idea when you're going to get more IBC mortise chisels in? Lie Nielsen isn't making theirs right now.
Also, thank you for the info. I was just wondering about sharpness and bevel angle.
We have more on order but IBC is basically a one man shop so it could be a while until they are back in stock
We have 3/16, 1/4 and 7/16” in stock
Привет. 👋 Спасибо за видео, полезно! 👍
👌
I'm new to woodworking and never feel like my chisels are as sharp as they could be. Does a completely glossy back as you have on your chisels indicate that the back is completely flat. I seem unable to achieve this. There are always dull spots on the back of my chisel no matter how much time I spend on the diamond plate.
What is that brand of mini engineer square? I always know that's one of my weakest links.
Do you ever use a strop? Why not? Can that replace the 16,000 grit
One question: what is the weight of the mallet you use? Thank you
Duke its the regular mallet we sell on our website. Check out the product page it will have the exact weight
Good stuff Rob 😜like i didn't know about the needs to be a round hammer that makes sense!Oh well ill keep watching i like this kinda stuff what i mean is i have chisels but don't use them that way much , so i did need this lesson.thsnks tk.cpm
Is it possible to chop a mortise that isn's parallel to the grain?
No1 tips, if you make a 3 in you can't have a chisel 3 in wide, so, corect that , would you?
I really like all of these tips, but how do you cut a through mortise
Thats a video we are working on now
Great video again, keep up the good work Rob. Hi to the whole team.
Thansk for watching
👍👍👍
😉
What is the reasoning behind sharpening your chisel to 15,000? Isn't there a point where the higher grit does nothing but polishes the steel? Do you sharpen all your tools to that high level?
Because 16K is the sweet spot between a very sharp cutting edge and the increasing costs for a higher grit stone. Does 16K make a difference over say 8K...you bet a HUGE difference. Polishing the leading edge is sharpening. You are getting rid of the tiny scratches that you did before. Yes I take almost all my blades to 16K
You're the guy. That means you speak truth. Unfortunately you make little sense. This this and that that... Wtf? Say what the heck you are referring to. Ten tips... No. Five. Brevity and accuracy of language works wonders.
Sorry about that. Its just me being me.