I gotta tell you Rob, I have never watched one of your videos without learning SOMETHING. Thank you for that. I enjoy how you teach too. On a side note: I’m 58, and I can’t believe you are 61! 😳 I never would’ve guessed… I assumed you were mid forties. ☮️
Well Rob, it's a bit rich, lecturing us mere mortals on how to mark out. From what I recall of your many videos you're the man who can hardly ever find a pencil! All joking apart, I invested in one of those bench pencil sharpeners you see in an architect's office. With the vast size of your workshop you'd probably need about 4 but such are the fruits of well-deserved success. Thanks again for enriching us all with the treasure of your knowledge.
Great video. A line is no good if you can’t see it. That’s why I think your comments on a red pen etc are so useful. Also, a very helpful demonstration of shooting to a knifed line.
Great tips Professor Cos. Never saw my uncle use a pencil. Only a marking gage or a marking knife. When I told him it was hard to see, he told me to get stronger glasses.
This was excellent information Rob. I have had a lot of these questions in the past and you addressed them all. Also, on another subject, you are one of the few that I know of that say you can put finish on a planed surface without sanding it afterwards Gosh, praise God! A lot of people say you have to give it some tooth for the finish to grab but I have always wondered what is the purpose of planing a great surface if I have to turn around and sand it!!!?
Rob, Great video. I buy those Pilot gel pens in multipacks and I’ve never had much use for the red ones they always toss in. It never occurred to me to use them for marking. Great tip!
I spent months trying to force myself to using a marking knife in nearly all circumstances (admittedly, often colored with a line of pencil/colored pencil/pen). I finally discovered I was adding more work and stress that didn’t really need to be. Rather the pen, pencil, knife and I suppose marker too all have strengths and weaknesses; it’s using them at the most appropriate time and place that matters most. As it pertains to regular pencils and mechanical pencils, I personally love the Pentel GraphGear for my apron and actual use on parts (only 0.7-0.9 on timber, the 0.3-0.5 is great for plans/notes/writing) since the whole head retracts in to the barrel and there’s no worry of bending the guide at the tip which renders a mechanical pencil useless. Another idea is to buy the plastic disposable mechanical pencils in 0.7 or 0.9 made for school kids who lose things constantly; they’ve got a plastic guide which will bounce long before it will bend and you haven’t lost but a few cents if you break or lose one or a bunch. As for wooden pencils, I took an old electric pencil sharpener from my study and keep it on my station where my reading glasses, pens/pencils, notepad sit behind me while standing at the bench. That makes sharpening it even easier than stropping a chisel, so there’s no reason not to sharpen and sharpen and sharpen to my heart’s content and that way I keep a consistent width when using on timber. Long gone are the days where a pencil sharpener cost $60-75 dollars and only swingline or bostich were the only gig in town. Now a days you can get battery powered ones at dollar stores, amazon, Office Depot, etc for just a few bucks. Plus, now you can buy the top of the line Bostich Quietsharp Heavy Duty electric sharpener for $26 bucks before discounts on Amazon. I’ve still not gotten to the point where I broken out the marker, but as my vision gets worse, I can see where it may be a good alternative to a flat carpenters pencil when breaking down stock, ordering/setting the orientation of glue ups/milling. I keep them sharpened with a pocket knife and only resort to lumber crayon or chalk when dealing with really knarly stuff or green wood.
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 they used knife, grease pen, pencil, chalk/ink line, soot… there’s been relatively little true discovery in the last 100 years, only technological advancement.
Thanks Rob, another great video with some really useful instruction. Looking forward to using my dovetail marking knife which is arriving next week. Cheers
Had the dovetail saw for three days now. Cut 10 dovetails and been getting good results since the first attempt. Saw is fantastic, thanks Rob. Highly recommend to anyone looking for an excellent dovetail saw!
For drawing lines I use my mechanical pencils left over from the days when I took a drafting class in college. I still use them for drafting small projects for construction though now they are mostly used at my woodworking bench. It's very easy and fast to keep the point sharper than a .5mm pencil with the "stick it in and swirl" sharpeners designed for them.
we can look great in the camera... but I draw a line when looking in the mirror.. I know I am 62 but the head still thinks it is 22... see how the next cycle goes.. keep well guys..
Just from curiousity, my grandfather was trained as boatwright in Carleton Place, Ontario, back before WW I. His maxim regarding marking lines was to leave "half a line." Effectively, I think it's the same as leaving the whole line and cutting on the waste side. Have you ever encountered that saying? It certainly offers a practice target goal.
great aged advice, if you can tell when you have half a line... knife, and marking gauge for me, others have their preferred processes... happy shavings
Lucky to have a pair of 61 year old eyes. I have only one 65 year old eye on the right hand side and I'm a left hander. Always have to tilt over to see the opposite side.
Hi Rob...I always have a lot to learn at every video class...about marking gauge I have one like yours and i t works on hi leve...but about traditional one I never did a correct job using it (my fault of course) but I can see Paul Sellers using only that type and works so fine (no comparsion in our skills too)...it is not for me...about marking knife I have one made in England ...Swann Morton brand but didn't leave that quality deep line like yours dovetail marking knife ...yours works only with your brand saw?...my dovetail saw are japanese pull saws Thank you
@@RobCosmanWoodworking for sure, as a lot of the good pull saws, are as fine as 0.2mm. stick to your preferred method and don't try and do all if you are getting results ... but! if not then there are other alternatives... like others, i have used the GOOD pull saws, but my saw rack is as big as Rob's now through trial and ERROR... enjoy the shavings and the peace....
If someone is inclined to use a pencil, and I personally do, Zebra makes a really nice .5mm lead version. It's incredibly thin, and you get the best of the thin pen + erasability. Some of us make some marking mistakes... well, a lot of mistakes, so pencil is a little more forgiving so it doesn't look like a bloodbath on the piece while we try to correct layouts.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
If you want to see more of Robs favorite woodworking books check out this video: th-cam.com/video/U_32J60tPs8/w-d-xo.html
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I gotta tell you Rob, I have never watched one of your videos without learning SOMETHING. Thank you for that. I enjoy how you teach too. On a side note: I’m 58, and I can’t believe you are 61! 😳 I never would’ve guessed… I assumed you were mid forties. ☮️
Well Rob, it's a bit rich, lecturing us mere mortals on how to mark out. From what I recall of your many videos you're the man who can hardly ever find a pencil! All joking apart, I invested in one of those bench pencil sharpeners you see in an architect's office. With the vast size of your workshop you'd probably need about 4 but such are the fruits of well-deserved success. Thanks again for enriching us all with the treasure of your knowledge.
Well explained and well done Rob! Even easier with a tool from Switzerland! ;) Greetings from Switzerland. Lukas
Thanks for watching and commenting
I really like that you have identified why, where and how to include precise accuracy. It's so important.
See the line cut to the line...Its very important
Very interesting and very helpful. Here’s a mind that refines the minuscule. When you make a mark you always wonder. Now we don’t need to.
Great comment, thanks for taking the time
I owe you a thousand thanks, Rob! Hope to visit one day:)
on up we are here
Thanks for sharing all of the wisdom!
My pleasure!
The most shocking part of this whole video is that you are 61. I never would have guessed. I would have gone late 40's - mid 50's.
I am ancient
I’m with you there. Mid 40’s tops.
Staying curious and devoted to a purpose is the secret 😉
Great video. A line is no good if you can’t see it. That’s why I think your comments on a red pen etc are so useful. Also, a very helpful demonstration of shooting to a knifed line.
glad it was useful . Thanks for watching and commenting
Great tips Professor Cos. Never saw my uncle use a pencil. Only a marking gage or a marking knife. When I told him it was hard to see, he told me to get stronger glasses.
I think that is good advice!!!!
Thank you Rob! Love everything you teach...
Thanks for following us
This was excellent information Rob. I have had a lot of these questions in the past and you addressed them all. Also, on another subject, you are one of the few that I know of that say you can put finish on a planed surface without sanding it afterwards Gosh, praise God! A lot of people say you have to give it some tooth for the finish to grab but I have always wondered what is the purpose of planing a great surface if I have to turn around and sand it!!!?
I never sand to lay down a finish. There is an argument to sand to add a stain, but I do not stain wood
Rob, Great video. I buy those Pilot gel pens in multipacks and I’ve never had much use for the red ones they always toss in. It never occurred to me to use them for marking. Great tip!
glad the video was helpful.
Nice one. Thank you.
you bet
Great tips from the master~! I always enjoy hearing (and re-hearing) about these techniques. Thanks for sharing them, Rob~!
Glad you enjoyed it!
All great tips especially the red pen which I don’t use until now so thanks
You are so welcome! they also make white lead pencils!!!!
good information .Thanks
Very good Rob
thanks
I spent months trying to force myself to using a marking knife in nearly all circumstances (admittedly, often colored with a line of pencil/colored pencil/pen). I finally discovered I was adding more work and stress that didn’t really need to be. Rather the pen, pencil, knife and I suppose marker too all have strengths and weaknesses; it’s using them at the most appropriate time and place that matters most. As it pertains to regular pencils and mechanical pencils, I personally love the Pentel GraphGear for my apron and actual use on parts (only 0.7-0.9 on timber, the 0.3-0.5 is great for plans/notes/writing) since the whole head retracts in to the barrel and there’s no worry of bending the guide at the tip which renders a mechanical pencil useless. Another idea is to buy the plastic disposable mechanical pencils in 0.7 or 0.9 made for school kids who lose things constantly; they’ve got a plastic guide which will bounce long before it will bend and you haven’t lost but a few cents if you break or lose one or a bunch. As for wooden pencils, I took an old electric pencil sharpener from my study and keep it on my station where my reading glasses, pens/pencils, notepad sit behind me while standing at the bench. That makes sharpening it even easier than stropping a chisel, so there’s no reason not to sharpen and sharpen and sharpen to my heart’s content and that way I keep a consistent width when using on timber. Long gone are the days where a pencil sharpener cost $60-75 dollars and only swingline or bostich were the only gig in town. Now a days you can get battery powered ones at dollar stores, amazon, Office Depot, etc for just a few bucks. Plus, now you can buy the top of the line Bostich Quietsharp Heavy Duty electric sharpener for $26 bucks before discounts on Amazon. I’ve still not gotten to the point where I broken out the marker, but as my vision gets worse, I can see where it may be a good alternative to a flat carpenters pencil when breaking down stock, ordering/setting the orientation of glue ups/milling. I keep them sharpened with a pocket knife and only resort to lumber crayon or chalk when dealing with really knarly stuff or green wood.
Phew! Whatever happened to the pencil behind the ear? You'd wonder how those making all that elaborate furniture all those years ago ever managed.
I know Luther likes his pentels and sharpens them with that little orbiter sander that looks like and old film canister
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 they used knife, grease pen, pencil, chalk/ink line, soot… there’s been relatively little true discovery in the last 100 years, only technological advancement.
Thanks Rob, another great video with some really useful instruction. Looking forward to using my dovetail marking knife which is arriving next week. Cheers
let me know how you like the dovetail marking knife
Had the dovetail saw for three days now. Cut 10 dovetails and been getting good results since the first attempt. Saw is fantastic, thanks Rob. Highly recommend to anyone looking for an excellent dovetail saw!
Great way to explain when to mark with the various tools. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience. Take care.
.89??? now that is some math
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Not sure what you are saying????
For drawing lines I use my mechanical pencils left over from the days when I took a drafting class in college. I still use them for drafting small projects for construction though now they are mostly used at my woodworking bench. It's very easy and fast to keep the point sharper than a .5mm pencil with the "stick it in and swirl" sharpeners designed for them.
Luther does the same thing. Always has his drafting mechanical pencils and that orbiter sharpener with him
thanks
,a cool video keep up the great content.. Thank you…..
keep watching and we will keep filming
Again, nice explanation, thanks
thanks for watching and commenting
Great topic!
even the small things are good topics
This was a great video Rob!!! Thanks!!!! 61?????? maybe 41 years old. If you are 61.....I need to start drinking some Canadian beers!!!!!! Wow!!!!
bring in the Moosehead!
we can look great in the camera... but I draw a line when looking in the mirror.. I know I am 62 but the head still thinks it is 22... see how the next cycle goes.. keep well guys..
Thanks👌
Thank you too
right on
You betcha
Just from curiousity, my grandfather was trained as boatwright in Carleton Place, Ontario, back before WW I. His maxim regarding marking lines was to leave "half a line." Effectively, I think it's the same as leaving the whole line and cutting on the waste side. Have you ever encountered that saying? It certainly offers a practice target goal.
Yes. Thats the traditional way to cut to a dovetail line....its very hard to do
great aged advice, if you can tell when you have half a line... knife, and marking gauge for me, others have their preferred processes... happy shavings
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I wondered. I was pretty young at the time (7 yo?), watching him build a chest. He was interesting to watch at work.
@@darrylbrook5968 I use a marking gauge or the sheep's-foot blade on a stockman pocket knife for marking. And happy shavings to you as well.
Greetings from the BIG SKY. I'm viewing with 72.89 year old eyes.
.89....how did you calculate that!!! Good on ya
Lucky to have a pair of 61 year old eyes. I have only one 65 year old eye on the right hand side and I'm a left hander. Always have to tilt over to see the opposite side.
So you cut half-blind dovetails then !!!!!!
Hi Rob...I always have a lot to learn at every video class...about marking gauge I have one like yours and i t works on hi leve...but about traditional one I never did a correct job using it (my fault of course) but I can see Paul Sellers using only that type and works so fine (no comparsion in our skills too)...it is not for me...about marking knife I have one made in England ...Swann Morton brand but didn't leave that quality deep line like yours dovetail marking knife ...yours works only with your brand saw?...my dovetail saw are japanese pull saws
Thank you
we have three different sizes of saw tooth blades for my marking knife now. However I don't think any of them will work with your Japanese style saw
@@RobCosmanWoodworking for sure, as a lot of the good pull saws, are as fine as 0.2mm. stick to your preferred method and don't try and do all if you are getting results ... but! if not then there are other alternatives... like others, i have used the GOOD pull saws, but my saw rack is as big as Rob's now through trial and ERROR... enjoy the shavings and the peace....
Hi I was wondering where do you get the small marking saw from???
We make them and sell them
Then there is the sumi tsubo. Precise, easy to see lines, even on dark wood, that stay but are readily removed, and brush for identifying marks.
I have never tried the Japaneese "chaiulk line" I dont even use a western chailj line. I like my pens, marking knives, and marking gauges
Making knife changed my life as a guy that piddles with wood
wood piddling is good!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍👌
👍
If someone is inclined to use a pencil, and I personally do, Zebra makes a really nice .5mm lead version. It's incredibly thin, and you get the best of the thin pen + erasability. Some of us make some marking mistakes... well, a lot of mistakes, so pencil is a little more forgiving so it doesn't look like a bloodbath on the piece while we try to correct layouts.
Thanks for sharing!
RobCosman it looks as if you dropped an "o" on your title thumbnail.
Dang we sure did...I will have luther fix that ASAp
You young pup lol be 69 in Jan here lol